FR2783532A1 - Two-layer knitted lingerie garment, especially brassiere, made in one piece from tube with inner and outer layers of different knit - Google Patents

Abstract

The garment is made basically in one piece from a knitwear tube (10) folded to form inner (12) and outer (11) layers, connected by a turned edge (13). The two layers are made from plated yarns and have a different knit in certain zones (15) to achieve special technical effects, such as reinforcement, tension or esthetic properties, and the inner layer is of slightly smaller diameter than the outer one.

Description

One-piece lined knitted lingerie item

  The present invention relates to a double knitted lingerie article.

  By lingerie item is meant here both upper body lingerie articles, such as bra, "top", bra, "body" and lower body articles, such as underpants, "boxers", breeches, sheaths, i.e. relatively complex articles intended to cover a part of the body of relatively large diameter, and provided with multiple openings for the passage of the trunk, arms or legs, as opposed to the stockings and socks which have only one opening and are tubes of

relatively small diameter.

  It is known to produce such lingerie articles by cutting different fabrics or knits and assembling. It is also known to mount a double fabric which makes it possible in particular to limit the transparency of the product in desired areas (for example at the level of the breasts for a bra) and to obtain a different feel and appearance between the interior and the exterior by the use of different fabrics adapted to the respective wishes. However, these fabrics assembled by confection sometimes give seams

  considered unsightly or even embarrassing to wear.

  The object of the invention is to produce an article of lingerie which does not have these drawbacks and makes it possible to eliminate certain operations.

of clothing.

  This object is obtained by means of a double knitted article of lingerie, which is mainly produced in a single piece of tubular knitted fabric folded back on itself so as to form an inner knitting layer and a

  outer knit layer, joined by a lapel.

  The tubular knitting piece is knitted on a circular loom and advantageously the inner layer and the outer layer are knitted 3o differently, at the general mesh level so that the inner layer is slightly smaller in diameter than the outer layer and / or at certain specific areas, to get effects

  localized techniques (especially reinforcement) or aesthetics.

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  The two layers are advantageously knitted in a vanized yarn, the ratio of the flow rates of the vanizing yarn to the basic yarn being substantially the

even in both layers.

  After turning the inner part into the outer part, the article is finished with conventional operations such as tying openings and sewing at the front / rear junction (shoulder pads of upper body articles and crotch of articles of lower body) and

  thus forms a one-piece article (i.e. one piece).

  The article produced is advantageously a bra, the mesh being looser in the regions of the inner and / or outer layer intended to cover the breasts, and tighter in the inner layer at the level of a zone before holding the chest. and a rear area of

retaining bands.

  The invention will be better understood using the following description, in

  reference to the appended schematic drawings showing by way of example a bra according to the invention. Other advantages and features

  will be highlighted on reading the description.

  Figure 1 shows a front view of a finished article according to the invention. Figure 2 shows a front view of a fallen knitting tube

  intended to form the article of figure 1.

  Figure 3 shows the detail of the mesh zones different from the

  inner layer present on the tube of figure 2.

  Figure 1 shows a bra 1 composed of a double knitting tube 2, defining a lower opening 3 for passage of the body around which is formed a bead or cuff 4, an upper opening 5 for passage of the neck, and two lateral openings 6 shoulder passage,

  openings 6 being separated from the opening 5 by the shoulder straps or shoulder pads 7.

  Such a bra is conventionally produced by cutting different fabrics and assembling by making operations. The invention allows the

  make by knitting a single piece.

  We start by knitting on a large circular loom (for example a Santoni SM8-8 loom 12 inches [30 cm] in diameter) the tubular piece 10 shown in FIG. 2 which then comprises a first tubular part 11 and a second separate tubular part 12

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  by a backhand 13 knitting. The first and second parts are intended to form the outer and inner layers (in the example

  illustrated, but it can be the opposite) of the finished bra.

  Part 11 is, for example, produced by conventional knitting with picked stitches on all of its rows of a polyamide 66 yarn, elastane, bare. The reverse 13 is produced with the same knitting, but by tightening the mesh much more and by stretching the bare elastane more. Its attachment at the level of line 14 is obtained on the loom by the conventional 0o plate attachment system, or by the also conventional needle attachment technique. After unhooking the cuff 13, knitting continues with the production of the second part 12, with the same material (or different materials) but under different conditions (in particular by tightening

  mesh and elastane flow).

  In knitting, account is taken of the fact that the inner part 12, intended to be turned over and disposed inside the part 13 and invisible to the wearer, is preferably less wide than the latter to avoid annoying folds; however, there is kept in the two parts intended to be superimposed substantially the same proportion of thread consumed between polyamide and elastane necessary for obtaining the feel and

  physical characteristics favoring well-being.

  For example, the first part 11 is knitted loose on the basis of LFA (absorbed yarn length) in polyamide of 3.20 m / t of tubular for an elastane flow rate of 1.63 m / t (the ratio is close to 1/2). The second part 12, apart from the details which will be explained below, is knitted on a polyamide base of 2.97 m / t for a flow

  elastane 1.51 m / t (substantially same ratio).

  The reverse part 13, on the other hand, intended to be placed under the chest when worn, is tightened as much as possible on the polyamide base 2.73 m / t and elastane 0.89 m / t. If necessary, it is possible for the models intended for heavier breasts, to obtain an even greater tightening of the cuff, for example by one of the following techniques: knitting with fewer needles, for example I needle on 2 alternately from one row to another, or else movement of the drop cams by

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  direct control of the falls rather than by the stepping motors mounted on the cams, which has the effect of being able to increase the amplitude of the movement. As mentioned above, it is possible to modify the knitting in given regions of the first part 11 or of the second part 12 to better adapt the finished article to its use. Thus, one can provide in part 1 1, as shown in Figure 2, a looser mesh (larger meshes) in the two regions 15 intended to match the shape of the breasts. Similarly, provision is made in part 12, io shown in isolation in FIG. 3 for clarity, also a looser mesh at the level of the regions 16 intended, after turning over, to follow the shape of the breasts and situated under the regions 15 of the first part, while in the zone between the line 14 and the regions 16, we knit with tight stitches and on a fewer number of needles to create a zone before 17 of maintenance at the base of the breasts, zone which follows their shape and plays the role of reinforcements such as the reinforcements generally present in conventional bras and bras, and at the rear an area 18 of retaining bands. It should be noted that these sets of stitches on the inner part 12 of the double knit are hidden and therefore invisible on

the item worn.

  Once the inner part 12 is arranged in the outer part 11, the article is cut at the neck and shoulder 6 openings, the collaring of said openings is made, and the straps are sewn to the

upper part of the shoulder pad.

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Claims (10)

  1. Lingerie article (1) in double knitting, characterized in that it is mainly produced in a single piece of tubular knitting (10) folded back on itself so as to form an inner knitting layer (12) and a outer knit layer (I l), joined by a reverse (13).   2. Article according to claim 1, characterized in that the inner layer (12) and / or the outer layer (11) are knitted differently at some of their particular areas (15, t5 16, 17, 18), to obtain technical effects, in particular of reinforcement, or localized aesthetics.   3. Article according to claim 2, characterized in that the layer   inner (12) is invisible to wear.   4. Article according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized   in that the inner layer (12) and the outer layer (11) are knitted differently, and in that the cuff (13) is much tighter. 5. Article according to claim 4, characterized in that the inner layer (12) and the outer layer (11) are knitted differently from each other, at their general mesh to make the inner layer (12 ) or slightly smaller   diameter than the outer layer (11).   6. Article according to claim 5, characterized in that the layers (12, 11) are knitted in a vanized yarn, the ratio of the flow rates of the vanizing yarn to the basic yarn being substantially the same in both layers. 6 2783532   7. Article according to any one of the preceding claims,   characterized in that, after turning the internal part into the external part, the article was finished by conventional confection operations such as gluing the openings and the   seam at the front / rear junction.   8. Article according to any one of the preceding claims,   characterized in that it is a bra.   9. Article according to claim 8, characterized in that the mesh is looser in the regions (15, 16) of the inner layer (12) and / or   outer (11) intended to cover the breasts.   10. Article according to any one of claims 8 or 9, characterized   by a tighter mesh in the inner layer (12) at a front area (17) for holding the chest and a rear area (18) of retaining strips.