EP3696305A1 - Fabric with controlled elasticity for the production of elements for garments, undergarments, orthoses and elements of seats - Google Patents

Abstract

This textile for the production of underwear, clothing, orthoses or seat elements with controlled elasticity, incorporates at least in the main direction of stress stretch yarns with elastic property. Said extensible yarns (A ) are associated with more highly extensible yarns (Al), whose elongation properties are greater than those of extensible yarns (A), the restoring force exerted by the reduced extensibility yarns (A) being between 25 and 50% of that exerted by high stretch yarns (Al).

Description

TECHNICAL AREA

The invention relates to a textile having controlled elastic properties. It finds its field of application in particular in elements of underwear, of clothing, such as for example bra straps, elastic belts of underwear or shorts for sports activity. But also in the field of orthopedics, more particularly implementing an elastic restraining action, or in the field of seats, such as in particular seats or backs of seat may be implemented in the field in particular passenger transport.

By the concept of controlled elasticity, is meant within the meaning of the invention, the ability developed by the textile in question to be able to stretch when it is subjected to a stress, while opposing an elastic restoring force, this capacity elongation being however limited.

In other words, the primary objective sought by the present invention lies in the concomitant search for the comfort of the user and for support in the event of stress of higher intensity or frequency.

PRIOR STATE OF THE ART

The very notion of elastic fabric, and in general of elastic textile, is very widespread today, moreover widely implemented. Among its main fields of application are mainly suspenders and support belts for underwear or sportswear, the making of orthoses (for example the production of bandages, knee pads, elbow pads, lumbar belts, etc.), in addition to all aspects of elastic compression.

Traditionally, the textiles used are generally woven or knitted articles having high elasticity in the warp direction, and endowed with an elastic return power (high compression effect). The constituent yarns of these fabrics developing elastic properties are traditionally covered type yarns, typically made up of a core of elastodiene or preferably of elastofiber, such as elastane, and of covering yarns of another material.

Typically, the elongation capacity of these textile articles, in particular woven articles, is between 60 and 130% in the longitudinal direction, and when such articles develop elastic properties in both directions (warp direction and weft direction), the capacity elongation is typically greater than or equal to 30% in the weft direction.

In fact, and in order to take into account the textiles of the prior state of the art, the designer must arbitrate between the use of elastic components with short elongation, intended to ensure compression and energetic damping during significant or rapid stresses. the article in which they are integrated, and the use of elastic components with long elongation, which will give the article in which they are integrated comfort and flexibility at rest or during low stress.

However, the use of elastic components with short elongation results in an impairment of the comfort of the user due to excessive compression, and stiffness or discomfort at rest or during low stresses.

As a corollary, the elastic components with long elongation do not provide the required restraint and damping during stronger, more intense and / or faster loads.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The objective sought by the present invention is precisely to be able to have available a textile element capable, at the same time, of ensuring the comfort of the user of the undergarment, of the garment, of the orthosis or of the seat incorporating this textile, and as a corollary, to have elastic properties such that they meet the desired result of elastic compression, in particular in the event of significant and / or rapid stresses.

To this end, the invention relates to a textile for the production of underwear, clothing, orthoses or seat elements with controlled elasticity, integrating, at least in the main direction of stress, highly extensible threads. .

According to the invention, said highly extensible threads are associated with threads also extensible in the same direction, but whose elongation properties are more reduced than those of highly extensible threads, and typically close to 50% of those of highly extensible threads. , these elastic son with short elongation typically constituting an elastic stop.

Concomitantly, according to the invention, the return force exerted by the son with reduced extensibility is between 25 and 50% of that exerted by the son with highly extensible elongation. If this return force of the yarns with reduced extensibility is less than 25% of that exerted by the yarns with highly extensible elongation, the braking or restraining effect sought for the textile in question, in particular when the latter is subjected to significant stresses or high frequency (intense efforts, sport, etc.) is not guaranteed, losing all the benefit sought for said textile. As a corollary, in the case where said return force is greater than 50% of that exerted by the highly extensible elongation yarns, the desired effect of comfort at rest, or when said textile is subjected to reduced stresses is absent.

In other words, this double combination of characteristics makes it possible to combine yarns with differentiated extensibility and restoring force, and thus to provide the desired result combining both comfort and elastic support. This combination was not at all obvious, since the person skilled in the art could naturally be inclined to consider the limiting factor arising from the specific characteristics of low-extensibility yarns, to dissuade him from using them, or on the contrary to favor their use. compression efficiency by sacrificing comfort.

The concepts of extensibility, elasticity or elongation as used in the context of the present invention have the meanings which are conventionally attributed to them; thus, an elastic deformation, in this case linear, is a reversible deformation, that is to say which disappears when the stresses having generated said deformation disappear. As this is a textile element with monodirectional extension, this elasticity will result in a variation in length, hence the notion of elongation.

As a corollary, the very notion of elasticity, as recalled above, generates that of restoring force, itself linked to the nature of the elastic material or to its structure.

According to the invention, the elastic property yarns integrated into the textile, whether the latter is of woven, knitted or braided nature, are covered yarns, the core of which is advantageously made of elastane, polyurethane, silicone or 'elastodiene, and cover advantageously made of polyamide, polyester or other materials, and in particular other threads or synthetic fibers.

According to the invention, the elongation capacity of short elongation elastic threads is close to 50% of that of long elongation elastic threads, and advantageously close to the maximum elongation capacity desired for the textile in question.

According to a first application of the invention, more particularly oriented towards the production of a strap for sportswear, the maximum elongation of said strap is about 90% with respect to its initial length, for a restoring force at 30% elongation close to 400 cN / cm.

Another application of the invention relates to the production of a belt for shorts or underwear, in particular for sports use, then exhibits a maximum elongation of approximately 120 to 150% of the initial length of the fabric constituting said. belt, for a return force at 30% elongation between 220 and 300 cN / cm.

According to the invention, and in order to allow the textile in which the yarns with differentiated elasticity are integrated, to lengthen, the weave of the structure used has a steaming (the steaming being defined as the ratio between the length of the yarns used and the length of the fabric at rest), this entrainment being selected to always be greater than the elongation capacity of the elastic yarns with the greatest elongation capacity.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

• La figure 1 est une représentation schématique en coupe longitudinale du travail et du positionnement des différents types de fils entrant dans la constitution d'un textile conforme à l'invention.
• La figure 2 est une représentation schématique en perspective de la structure du tissu.
• La figure 3 est le rapport d'armure correspondant.
• La figure 4 est un exemple représentatif d'une note d'enfilage au métier à tisser pour la réalisation d'une bande élastique d'une largeur de 35 mm, typiquement susceptible de constituer une bretelle de brassière ou de soutien-gorge de sport.

The manner in which the invention can be implemented, and the advantages which result therefrom, will emerge better from the exemplary embodiment which follows, given by way of indication and without limitation in support of the appended figures.

• The figure 1 is a schematic representation in longitudinal section of the working and positioning of the different types of yarns entering into the constitution of a textile according to the invention.
• The figure 2 is a schematic perspective representation of the fabric structure.
• The figure 3 is the corresponding weave ratio.
• The figure 4 is a representative example of a note for threading on a loom for the production of an elastic band with a width of 35 mm, typically capable of constituting a bra strap for a sports bra or sports bra.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

As already indicated, the exemplary embodiment which follows relates more specifically to the production of a woven strip for making a bra strap for a sports bra or sports bra, that is to say for making an element of a part of a garment liable to be subjected to significant mechanical stresses, in this case during the practice of sport.

This realization uses a conventional loom with a comb density of 10.25 teeth per cm. It uses a double weft (T), each made of a textured polyamide yarn of 2/78 decitex count, the reduction of the finished fabric being 110 strokes per inch.

• des fils fortement extensibles (A) de type fils guipés, d'un allongement maximum de 90%, insérés de façon linéaire entre la trame de dessus et la trame de dessous afin de favoriser le retour élastique, constitués d'une âme en élasthanne 310 décitex recouverte de deux couches de fils de polyamide texturé de 2/78 décitex ;
• des fils fortement extensibles (A1) de type fils guipés, d'un allongement maximum de 160%, insérés de façon linéaire entre la trame de dessus et la trame de dessous afin de favoriser le retour élastique, constitués d'une âme en élasthanne 940 décitex recouverte de deux couches de fils de polyamide texturé de 1/78 décitex ;
• des fils appelés « fils de fond » (B), chacun étant constitué d'un fil de polyamide texturé de titre 2/78 décitex travaillant selon une armure cannelée 3/1 sur les deux trames ;
• des fils appelés « fils d'envers » (C), chacun étant constitué d'un fil de polyamide texturé de titre 2/78 décitex travaillant selon une armure cannelée 3/1 sur la trame de dessous ;
• des fils appelés « fils de liage » (D), chacun étant constitué d'un fil de polyamide texturé de titre 2/78 décitex travaillant selon une armure taffetas sur les deux trames.

If we refer to figures 1 and 2 for a better understanding of the fabric structure, the warp threads have the following combination:

• highly stretchable yarns (A) of the wrapped yarn type, with a maximum elongation of 90%, inserted linearly between the top weft and the bottom weft in order to promote elastic return, made of an elastane core 310 decitex covered with two layers of textured polyamide threads of 2/78 decitex;
• highly extensible yarns (A1) of the covered yarn type, with a maximum elongation of 160%, inserted in a linear fashion between the top weft and the bottom weft in order to promote elastic return, made of an elastane core 940 decitex covered with two layers of textured polyamide threads of 1/78 decitex;
• yarns called “ground yarns” (B), each consisting of a textured polyamide yarn of 2/78 decitex count working in a 3/1 fluted weave on the two wefts;
• yarns called "reverse yarns" (C), each consisting of a textured polyamide yarn of 2/78 decitex count working in a 3/1 fluted weave on the bottom weft;
• yarns called “binding yarns” (D), each consisting of a textured polyamide yarn of 2/78 decitex strength working in a taffeta weave on the two wefts.

The textile element thus produced has a maximum elongation capacity of about 90% relative to the initial length, and develops a restoring force at 30% elongation of the order of 400 cN / cm.

Advantageously, in order to achieve the desired result, that is to say comfort on the one hand and support on the other hand, the respective proportion of long-stretch yarns and short-stretch yarns is close to 50-50; only the elastic threads on each selvedge are made with long-stretch elastic threads to facilitate the making of the edge.

Obviously, the elastic properties of the textile element depend on its final application.

Thus, in the context of making a belt for shorts or underwear, in particular for sports use, a textile structure similar to that described above is produced, but which this time has a maximum elongation of approximately 120 at 150% relative to the initial length, in addition to a return force at 30% elongation typically between 200 and 300 cN / cm.

In order to vary the elastic properties of the yarns used, one plays on the one hand on the title of the core of the covered yarns and on the covering itself. This control of the elongation and of the return force generated consecutively being perfectly known and within the reach of those skilled in the art.

The example described relates to a woven article.

The invention also applies to textile structures obtained by knitting or by braiding, the fundamental elements of the invention being preserved.

We can see all the interest of the present invention which makes it possible in a simple manner to have, whatever the envisaged application, a textile structure making it possible concomitantly to ensure the elastic restraint function which is mainly assigned to it, to that of comfort, the latter proving to be sought after in the event of low stress or absence of stress. This is therefore particularly true in the practice of sport, although not reduced to this single field of application.

Claims (8)

Textile for the production of underwear, clothing, orthoses or seat elements with controlled elasticity, incorporating at least in the main direction of stress stretch yarns with elastic property, characterized in that said yarns stretchable (A) are associated with more highly stretchable yarns (A1), the elongation properties of which are greater than those of stretch yarns (A), and in that the restoring force exerted by the reduced stretchability yarns ( A) is between 25 and 50% of that exerted by the high stretch yarns (A1). Textile for the production of underwear, clothing, orthoses or seat elements with controlled elasticity according to Claim 1, characterized in that the elongation capacity of the reduced extensibility yarns (A) is close to 50% of that of highly extensible yarns (A1). Textile for the production of underwear, clothing, orthoses or seat elements with controlled elasticity according to one of Claims 1 and 2, characterized in that the respective proportion of highly extensible yarns (A1 ) and threads with reduced extensibility (A) is close to 50-50. Textile for the production of underwear, clothing, orthoses or seat elements with controlled elasticity according to one of Claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the yarns with elastic property (A, A1 ) integrated into the textile, are wrapped yarns, the core of which is advantageously made of elastane, polyurethane, silicone or elastodiene, and the cover of which is advantageously made of polyamide, polyester or other yarns or synthetic fibers. Textile for producing underwear, clothing, orthoses or seat elements with controlled elasticity according to one of Claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the stretchable threads with elastic property (A, A1) are integrated into a structure, the armor of which presents a steaming, the steaming being selected to always be greater than the elongation capacity of the elastic yarns (A1) at the highest elongation capacity. Textile for the production of underwear, clothing, orthoses or seat elements with controlled elasticity according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that said textile is a woven fabric, a knit or a braid. Suspender for underwear or sportswear, using a textile according to one of claims 1 to 6, and in which the maximum elongation of said strap is approximately 90% with respect to its initial length, for a restoring force at 30% elongation close to 400 cN / cm. Belt for shorts or underwear, in particular for sports use, using a textile according to one of claims 1 to 6, and in which the maximum elongation of said belt is approximately 120 to 150% of the initial length of the fabric constituting said belt, for a restoring force at 30% elongation of between 200 and 300 cN / cm.

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