EP2298974A1 - Vestimentary article with warp knitted adherence zone - Google Patents

Abstract

The fabric (30) has loops (32) whose head part is provided on a top side of a fabric part by weft stitches, where four successive rows of the fabric are subjected to stitching by a micromesh stitch in an even and an odd manner. Thread portions (34, 36) are moved over braces that are provided on a side face of fabric part, where the sum of the yardage of threads of the stitches is lower than 150 decitex. A spandex is provided on the micromesh stitch or the weft stitches. Anti-slip material layers are placed on a top side of the fabric, where the anti-slip material layers are made of silicone. Independent claims are also included for the following: (1) a clothing article comprising an adherence zone carried out in a knitted fabric (2) a method for knitting a knitted fabric.

Description

The invention relates to gathered knitwear and knitting method thereof.

The invention relates more precisely to knits having a high extensibility.

Such knits are commonly used in the field of hosiery and clothing items including underwear and footwear, including footwear having a tubular shape.

For example, the footwear covers the stockings, knee-highs, socks, belts, knee pads, leggings, elbow pads, mints or similar items to enclose bust, waist, ankle, wrist, hand portion, finger, or any other portion of the human body .....

Usually, in the knee highs or low, especially the articles of contention, but also articles for simple clothing and without medical indication, the holding and / or the contention of the desired zones are carried out by a tighter knit and / or by the introduction of elastic fibers.

This induces a tight fitting of the area in question, especially in the upper part of the article to maintain the article on this area without slippage. Achieving an adjusted tightening is even more difficult to obtain for a mid-bottom or a bottom to remain in position on the leg without sliding, because of the phenomenon of gravity, the pull down on the upper part of the article by the rest of the knit of the article and the generally flared shape of the leg.

In the case of knee-highs, despite the enlargement of this zone with an accentuated tightening, intended to distribute the forces over a larger surface of the skin, the compression often remains too great in the highest part, corresponding to the calf or at the area between the knee and the calf, and causes a tourniquet effect that marks the skin and causes discomfort to wear.

It is also known to add in this upper part of the article which is knitted in one piece with the rest of the article, especially for the stockings, one or more silicone strips on the face facing the skin, this which has the effect of allowing this upper part grips the upper leg to ensure the maintenance position down.

However, in the case of a stocking equipped in its upper part with a continuous band of silicone, there is a loss of extensibility (of the order of 20 to 30%) of the knitted fabric whose mesh is clamped by the silicone , resulting in a tourniquet effect and adhesion of silicone on the skin that can cause discomfort (unpleasant contact, redness, even burning ....).

It is therefore sought, so that the wear of stockings is pleasant, to achieve an upper part of stockings, formed of a silicone-coated knit, with an elastic profile (extension and return behavior) which guarantees a good performance and comfort. In particular, this upper part of the bottom must be sufficiently extensible not to clamp and produce discomfort on the leg, while ensuring sufficient support.

In addition, the hold is not always ensured because the upper part of the bottom wearing this silicone strip tends to roll on itself, which reduces the silicone surface in contact, thus holding and creates, moreover, an annoying extra thickness, especially in sitting position and which can be visible under the clothes that are close to the body. To overcome this aspect, it is sometimes planned to use a lapel as a border of the knitting of the upper part of the bottom, which causes an oversize uncomfortable and can be visible under clothes that are close to the body.

The object of the present invention is to provide a knitting process and the knit resulting from said knitting process making it possible to overcome the drawbacks of the prior art and in particular having a high extensibility in order to allow, once coated with an anti-corrosive material, slip, maintain a high extensibility and achieve a good adhesion of the anti-slip material on the knit.

The present invention also aims to obtain, with such a knit coated with an anti-slip material forming the upper part of a footwear, and in particular a stocking, to obtain a footwear having properties of holding and comfort important.

For this purpose, according to the present invention, there is provided a method of knitting a knitted stitch knit having a four-row knit construction such that it comprises alternately two successive rows with a micromesh mesh in even load and two successive rows with a micromesh mesh in odd load.

Advantageously, said knit is produced with a mesh size greater than 75% of the maximum normally acceptable value.

This amplitude of mesh may be for example greater than 80%, or even greater than 90% of the maximum value normally acceptable for the knitting machine and the son used.

Indeed, the inventors have emphasized that using this type of mesh construction, it was not only possible to go up to values of mesh size greater than those usually practiced, in the range of maximum values. and up to the limit of the recommendations of the knitting machine, but that in addition, it was possible to obtain a knit much more extensible, especially in the direction parallel to the rows of the knit.

The present invention is applicable to both circular knitting machines and straight knitting machines.

The term "micromesh mesh" means a modified jersey (or 1/1) mesh in which in each row all the stitches are not picked, the yarns being put on hold at these unfilled stitches corresponding to the "loaded" positions. . This position in load is called "pair" if the needle corresponding to the unfired mesh in question has an even number, or "odd" if the needle corresponding to the not picked mesh has an odd number.

By mesh size is meant the needle stroke between the extreme positions used in forming a stitch (between a minimum position and a stitching start position), ie for a vertical needle movement, the difference between the lowest extreme position (minimum position) and the beginning mesh formation position (intermediate position corresponding to the zero point).

In particular, the present invention applies to a circular knitting machine in which the high position of the cylinder is set within the maximum allowable range and in which the cam systems which guide the vertical movement of the needles have a low position set in the maximum allowable range.

It is recalled that the cylinder of a knitting machine has a needle bed constituting a grooved assembly inside which slide the knitting needles which are set in motion by one or more falls including cam systems.

All circular knitting machines can be used to implement the method according to the present invention, regardless of the size of the diameter of the cylinder and regardless of the number of needles.

In particular, in this knitting process the knit is made with a mesh size greater than 1.50 mm, this mesh size being greater than 1.70 mm, 1.90 mm or even 2 mm depending on the degree. of extensibility and comfort desired for knitting.

The invention also relates to a knitted gathered knit, having a four-row knit construction as it alternatively comprises two successive rows with an even load micromesh mesh and two successive rows with a micromesh mesh in odd load so that the head of the loops formed by the gathered stitches is on the face of the knit and the portions of yarns of the knit that leap at least one row constitute braces which are on the reverse face of the knit.

Such a knit is advantageously made by the knitting process which has been presented above.

Thus, each row of the knit is made according to a micromesh mesh alternating between a gathered stitch and an uncollected stitch (or mesh in load), with a shift of one column (one stitch) every two rows.

In this way, it is understood that by the use of a micromesh mesh, the presence of the portions of threads forming the braces makes it possible to improve the elasticity and the possibilities of deformation in the direction of the width of the knit, it is ie parallel to the rows.

Overall, thanks to the solution according to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a large extensibility in the direction of the width of the knit, which corresponds to the possibility of a large extension, with elastic return, of the diameter of the knit when it is a tubular knit made on a circular knitting machine.

According to a preferred arrangement, the knit comprises at least two threads per stitch. In other words, each row of the knit has two threads, in that two threads are knitted together and therefore in particularly picked by the same needle during the formation of loops constituting the stitches.

This solution also has the additional advantage of allowing, in addition to obtain a softer texture, more swelling and facilitate the attachment of an anti-slip element.

In this case, one of the two son has a title greater than 33 decitex, the sum of the titles of the two son of each mesh being greater than 55 decitex.

According to a preferred arrangement, the sum of the threads of each mesh is less than 150 decitex and preferably less than 110 decitex.

In this way, a knit is produced which is not too thick and which keeps a good flexibility as well as a good aptitude for the extension.

According to another preferred arrangement, the sum of the threads of each mesh is greater than 33 decitex and preferably greater than 55 decitex.

In this way, we realize a knit that is neither too fine nor too fragile and has a good performance.

For example, the knit is opaque and the sum of the threads of each mesh has a title greater than or equal to 80 decitex.

According to another preferred embodiment, one of the knit yarns comprises elastane. In this way, it increases and facilitates the elastic return of the knit.

In addition, the inventors have found that the presence of elastane contributes to greatly reduce the rolling on itself of the edge of the knit, which perfect the holding of the knit without having to add a lapel to the edge.

The invention also relates to a knit piece made in the knit described above.

The invention further relates to an article of clothing comprising an adhesion zone made in the knit described above, and at least one layer of anti-slip material disposed on the reverse side of said knit.

It may be provided to coat the reverse side of the knit fabric with several superposed layers of anti-slip material (s). It is also possible to coat the reverse side of the knit fabric in several locations. a single layer of anti-slip material or of several superimposed layers of anti-slip material (x).

Such an adhesion zone carries the article on the body and is preferably circular: it is for example the upper part of a stocking, a put-down or a knee, a belt for a pantyhose, panties, sheath.

Indeed, the inventors have emphasized that using this type of mesh construction, it was both possible to achieve a good adhesion of an anti-slip material while maintaining a significant extensibility of the coated knit. Such a result is not obtained without the mesh construction of the knit according to the invention.

In particular, this article of clothing forms a knitted article of footwear having a tubular shape, said adherence zone of which corresponds to an upper part in the form of a tubular section made in said knit, and which comprises at least one element made of anti-slip material disposed on the reverse side of said knit.

Preferably, the anti-slip material is silicone.

According to a preferred arrangement, said section made in the knit according to the invention forms the edge of the article of footwear.

Advantageously, said anti-slip material element forms at least one continuous band, in particular a circular band.

Alternatively, said anti-slip material element forms at least one discontinuous strip, in particular a quasi-circular strip (an open ring in one, two or more locations).

Preferably, this footwear is a low or mid-low.

• la figure 1 est un schéma illustrant la construction de maille utilisée dans le procédé de tricot selon l'invention,
• la figure 2 est une représentation schématique générale d'un bas utilisant le tricot selon l'invention, depuis l'extérieur,
• la figure 3 est une représentation schématique agrandie du détail III de la figure 2, depuis l'intérieur du bas, montrant la face interne de la partie supérieure du bas,
• les figures 4A et 4B sont des vues, respectivement depuis la face interne du bas et depuis la face externe du bas, du tricot selon l'invention, après extension.

Other advantages and characteristics of the invention will become apparent on reading the following description given by way of example and with reference to the appended drawings in which:

• the figure 1 is a diagram illustrating the mesh construction used in the knitting process according to the invention,
• the figure 2 is a general schematic representation of a stocking using the knit according to the invention, from the outside,
• the figure 3 is an enlarged schematic representation of detail III of the figure 2 from the inside of the bottom, showing the inner face of the upper part of the bottom,
• the Figures 4A and 4B are views, respectively from the inner face of the bottom and from the outer face of the bottom, of the knit according to the invention, after extension.

The figure 1 illustrates the mesh construction used in the knitting process according to the invention, namely a four-row knit construction which comprises alternately two successive rows (n and n + 1) with a micromesh mesh in even load and two successive rows ( n + 2 and n + 3) with a micromesh mesh in odd load. This construction can still be translated as a 1/1 knit in even load on the successive rows (n ° 1 and n ° 2) and knit 1/1 in odd load on the successive rows (n ° 3 and n ° 4) .

This construction of four rows of knits constitutes a pattern which is repeated in the following rows throughout the knit according to the invention.

As an example of embodiment, we consider (see figure 2 ) a bottom 10 whose leg portion 12 (covering the foot, calf, knee and lower section of the thigh) is conventionally performed in a jersey mesh with one or more fine threads. This bottom 10 comprises an upper portion 14 comprising the knit object of the present invention and which will be described further below in connection with the figures 3 (view from the bottom), 4A (bottom inside view) and 4B (bottom outside view).

This upper part 14 comprises (see figure 3 ) three opaque strips 15, 17 and 19 alternated with two transparent strips 16 and 18 for a total height of between 5 and 10 cm measured flat.

It is the opaque strips 15, 17 and 19 which are made according to the knitting method of the present invention and which bear strips of anti-slip material 20 and 22, on the inner face of the upper bottom part 14, which corresponds to the reverse side of the knit according to the invention. The two transparent strips 16 and 18 are for example knitted identically to the leg portion 12.

More specifically, in this embodiment, a first strip of anti-slip material 20 is disposed on the first opaque strip 15, which delimits the border 13 of the bottom 10, and a second strip of anti-slip material 22 is disposed on the second opaque strip 17.

• Caractéristiques techniques du métier à tricoter:

• Cylindre de diamètre 4 pouces
• 400 aiguilles avec des palettes de 7mm
• Jauge de la machine : 32 aiguilles par pouce
• Finesse des aiguilles : 75 aiguilles par pouce

According to an embodiment of the knit according to the invention, a circular knitting machine LONATI 509M7 was used under the following conditions:

• Technical characteristics of the knitting machine:

• 4 inch diameter cylinder
• 400 needles with 7mm pallets
• Gauge of the machine: 32 needles per inch
• Fine needles: 75 needles per inch

Knitting loom settings: The cylinder is positioned in the up position at 950 steps, which is beyond the usual maximum setting of 880 steps (the limit indicated by the manufacturer being 1300 steps for this knitting machine). The cam paths which guide the needles on the four falls (up / down needles) remain in the maximum allowable range with a low position set at -0.6 mm, which corresponds to a position 0.6 mm below the normal working position (or customary setting which is the position with a setting of 0 mm). This adjustment makes it possible to obtain a mesh amplitude of 2.06 millimeters, close to the maximum acceptable by the manufacturer, which is in this case 2.60 millimeters for this knitting machine.

• Rangs n et n+1 : Elasthanne de 22 décitex guipé avec un fil polyamide texturé de 44 décitex en 34 brins + un fil polyamide texturé de 33 décitex en 10 brins
• Rangs n+2 et n+3 : Un fil polyamide texturé de 78 décitex en 34 brins + un fil polyamide texturé de 33 décitex en 10 brins

The pairs of yarns used for producing the knit according to the invention, making it possible to obtain the opaque strips 15, 17 and 19 are as follows:

• Ranks n and n + 1: Elastane of 22 decitex covered with a 34 decitex textured polyamide yarn in 34 strands + a textured polyamide yarn of 33 decitex in 10 strands
• Ranks n + 2 and n + 3: A textured polyamide yarn of 78 decitex in 34 strands + a textured polyamide yarn of 33 decitex in 10 strands

The combination of doubled loaded stitches (at least two threads including a textured yarn) and the large amplitude of the needle stroke given by the business settings, allows to play on the elasticity and the deformation of the threads. This gives a knit of great extensibility.

The transparent strips 16 and 18 are for their part made with a textured polyamide yarn of 33 decitex in 10 strands, in a jersey mesh configuration on all the rows, with conventional adjustments of the machine.

• un ou plusieurs fils en polyamide texturés de 33 à 78 décitex Ou
• un fil en polyamide texturés de 33 à 78 décitex et l'un au moins parmi les fils suivants : fil élasthanne de 13 à 78 décitex, fil guipé avec coeur élasthanne de 22 à 78 décitex. Un ou plusieurs fils plats peuvent être rajoutés dans les bandes opaques 15, 17 et 19 pour conférer une certaine brillance à cette zone.

As an indication, other wire configurations have been used successfully in the opaque strips 15, 17 and 19, in particular by using:

• one or more textured polyamide yarns from 33 to 78 decitex
• a textured polyamide yarn of 33 to 78 decitex and at least one of the following yarns: elastane yarn 13 to 78 decitex, yarn wrapped with elastane core 22 to 78 decitex. One or more flat wires can be added in the opaque strips 15, 17 and 19 to impart a certain gloss to this area.

If we now turn to Figures 4A and 4B the geometry of the knit 30 forming the opaque strips 15, 17 and 19 is illustrated. For the sake of clarity, this knit 30 is shown under extension. On the Figure 4A , it is the reverse side of the knit 30 which is illustrated (corresponding to the inner face of the upper part of the bottom 14) and on the Figure 4B it is the face of the knit 30 which is illustrated (corresponding to the outer face of the upper part of bottom 14).

This knit 30 comprises loops 32 horizontally aligned in rows and vertically in columns, and portions of threads going from one loop 32 to the other (see FIG. Figures 4A and 4B ).

Among these portions of yarns, there are firstly first portions of threads 34 which extend in a very slightly inclined direction relative to the horizontal direction of the rows by connecting together on the one hand the lower ends of the adjacent loops 32 of the same row (between two adjacent columns) and on the other hand the high ends of adjacent loops 32 of the same row (between two adjacent columns).

Among these portions of son, there are secondly second portions of son 36 forming braces which extend in a direction forming an angle of the order of 45 ° relative to the horizontal direction of the rows, and which connect between they the low end of a first loop 32 and the high end of a second loop 32, the second loop 32 being an adjacent loop 32 (neighboring column) to the first loop 32 and belonging to the same row as the first loop 32.

With regard to the face of the knit fabric 30 ( Figure 4B ), it is found that the structure of the knit 30 highlights the loops 32 on the surface (the loops 32 appear in thick lines on the Figure 4B ).

It can be seen that on the reverse side of the knit 30 ( Figure 4A ), these are the second portions of threads 36 forming braces (in thick lines on the Figure 4A ) that emerge on the surface of the knit 30. More precisely, it is the central section 36a of these second portions of threads 36 which is furthest forward and projecting from the surface of the knit 30, and which constitutes a head of mesh on the inner side.

• un nombre réduit de points de contact et d'accrochage pour le matériau anti-glissement en surface de la face intérieure, au niveau des têtes de maille, à savoir des tronçons centraux 36a des deuxièmes portions de fils 36, et
• une distance importante entre les têtes de mailles, à savoir entre les tronçons centraux 36a des deuxièmes portions de fils 36.

In addition to its great intrinsic extensibility, the knit thus obtained has on its inner face or face-face surface characteristics which are decisive in obtaining the good elastic profile of the knit according to the invention, after coating of the anti-slip material. , in particular :

• a reduced number of points of contact and attachment for the anti-slip material at the surface of the inner face, at the level of the mesh heads, namely central sections 36a of the second portions of wires 36, and
• a large distance between the mesh heads, namely between the central sections 36a of the second portions of wires 36.

When the anti-slip material is affixed to such a surface, it adheres to the knit on a reduced number of contact points, spaced apart from each other, which makes it possible to keep the assembly formed of the knit 30 (opaque strip 15 or 17) and anti-slip material (strip 20 or 22) has a satisfactory stretch and elastic profile parallel to the rows of the knit (depending on the width of the knit).

The combination between the knit configuration of this knit 30 and the chosen yarns (type and texturing) also makes it possible to better regulate the penetration of the anti-slip material into the thickness of the knit and thus to control the final elastic profile as precisely as possible. of the assembly formed of the knit 30 and the anti-slip material.

The anti-slip material preferably comprises silicone and advantageously mainly silicone. As an ingredient complementary, there may be mentioned pigments for tinting the silicone, for example of the same color as the knit 30.

In particular, it is possible to use two-component silicone, and as a two-component example, in particular the liquid silicone of the ELASTOSIL (registered trademark) LR 3003 series from WACKER.

The silicone may be coated directly (by screen printing), or indirectly, via a temporary intermediate support covered with a silicone band, applied under heat and under pressure against the knit fabric (in particular by the technique described in the patent FR 2 891 555 ).

The silicone is deposited in the form of strips on the reverse side of the knit 30. More specifically, the first strip of anti-slip material 20 is disposed on the first opaque strip 15, and the second strip of anti-slip material 22 is disposed on the second opaque strip 17.

Thus, the strips of slip material 20 and 22 are not visible from the face of the knit 30 because they are hidden by the thickness of the knit 30 which is opaque.

According to the coating method used, each silicone strip 20 and 22 forms, once deposited on the knit 30, a continuous circular band, or possibly a discontinuous strip with local silicone interruption, preferably in one or two locations, even three or four locations and up to eight locations.

Comparative tests have been conducted on the improvement provided by the invention on the extensibility characteristics of an upper part of the bottom 14.

For this purpose, comparative measurements of the width under extension of the knit have been made for knits comprising the same yarn combinations, for several combinations of different yarns, between a jersey-type knit and a knit according to the invention, with identical settings of the knitting machine (including a mesh size of 2.06 millimeters and a cylinder position of 950 steps) and identical measurement conditions for the extension. The results are shown in Table 1 and relate to a naked knit, without deposit of silicone. Table 1 Used wires Extension width
knit knit
Jersey Width knit extension 30
according to the invention Difference A + A 50 cm 55 cm + 10% A + B 46 cm 53 cm + 15% A + C 44 cm 51 cm + 15% A + B
alternate
with A + D 52 cm 60 cm + 15% Yarn A = textured polyamide yarn of 33 decitex in 10 strands
Yarn B = textured polyamide yarn of 56 decitex in 34 strands
Thread C = textured polyamide thread of 78 decitex in 34 strands

Yarn D = 22 decitex elastane gimped with a textured polyamide yarn of 44 decitex in 34 strands

Thus, the mesh configuration of the knit according to the invention greatly improves the knit's stretching properties.

In Table 2, the mesh size and the cylinder position to be used are compared to obtain an identical value for the width under extension of the knit fabric, alternately using rows A + B alternately. with A + D wires: Table 2 Used wires Construction of
stitch Amplitude of mesh /
number of steps Width
knit extension Alternate A + B
with A + D knit 30
in accordance with
the invention 1.68 mm / 700 48 cm Alternate A + B
with A + D jersey mesh 1.95 mm / 880 48 cm

In all these tests, it has furthermore been found that the LFA (measured yarn length for a row of knits) is the same for the same given combination of yarns, between the knit jersey reference knit and the corresponding knit. to the invention.

Under test conditions and settings of the knitting machine identical to those of the results of Table 1, the intrinsic extensibility values were compared after deposition of silicone on the knit.

The results are shown in Table 3 and show that the gain of extensibility obtained through the mesh construction according to the invention continues after deposition of silicone as an anti-slip material. Table 3 Used wires Extension width
knit jersey knit
silicone coated Width knit extension
According to the invention
silicone coated Difference A + A 35 cm 38 cm + 9% A + C 34 cm 39 cm + 15%

Thus, the combination of the knit fabric thus obtained and of an anti-slip material on the inner face of this knit makes it possible to obtain an elastic profile guaranteeing, for the upper part 14 of the bottom 10, a good resistance on the leg without compressing the thigh.

In addition, it should be noted that the absence of backhand in the construction of the upper portion 14 of the bottom 10 accentuates the comfort and invisibility of the bottom 10 under clothing.

Claims (15)

A garment article (10) comprising an adherence zone made of a knit (30) with gathered stitches, having a four-row knit construction such that it alternately comprises two successive rows with an even load micromesh mesh and two successive rows with a micromesh mesh in odd load so that the head of the loops (32) formed by the gathered meshes is on the face of the knit fabric (30) and the portions of yarns of the knit that jump at least one row constitute braces (36) which are on the reverse side of the knit (30), and at least one layer of anti-slip material (20, 22) disposed on the reverse side of said knit (30). Article of clothing (10) according to claim 1, characterized in that the knit fabric (30) comprises at least two threads per stitch. Article of clothing (10) according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the sum of the titles of the threads of each stitch is less than 150 decitex. Article of clothing (10) according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the sum of the titles of the threads of each stitch is greater than 33 decitex. Article of clothing (10) according to claim 2, characterized in that one of the two son has a title greater than 33 decitex, the sum of the titles of the two son of each mesh being greater than 55 decitex. A clothing article (10) as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that one of the knit yarns comprises elastane. An article of clothing (10) according to claim 1 forming a knitted article of footwear having a tubular shape, said adherence zone of which corresponds to an upper part (14) in the form of a tubular section made in said knit (30), and which comprises at least one at least one anti-slip material member (20, 22) disposed on the reverse side of said knit fabric (30). An article of clothing according to claim 7 wherein said section made in said knit (30) forms the border of the footwear (10). Article of clothing according to claim 7 or 8, characterized in that said anti-slip material element (20, 22) forms at least one continuous strip. An article of clothing according to claim 7 or 8, characterized in that said anti-slip material member (20, 22) forms at least one discontinuous strip. Article of clothing according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it constitutes a bottom (10) or a mid-bottom. Article of clothing according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the anti-slip material is silicone. A method of making a clothing article (10) comprising knitting a knit (30) with gathered stitches having a four-row knit construction as it alternately comprises two successive rows with a pair of evenly loaded micromesh stitches successive rows with a micromesh mesh in odd load, and depositing at least one layer of anti-slip material (20, 22) on the reverse side of said knit (30). Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that said knit (30) is made with a mesh size greater than 75% of the normally acceptable maximum value. Method according to claim 13 or 14, characterized in that the knit fabric (30) is made with a mesh size greater than 1.50 mm.

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