EP2909368B1 - Blank and tubular knit article with single thickness stay-up hem, and method of making this article - Google Patents
Blank and tubular knit article with single thickness stay-up hem, and method of making this article Download PDFInfo
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- EP2909368B1 EP2909368B1 EP13785542.5A EP13785542A EP2909368B1 EP 2909368 B1 EP2909368 B1 EP 2909368B1 EP 13785542 A EP13785542 A EP 13785542A EP 2909368 B1 EP2909368 B1 EP 2909368B1
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- knitted
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- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 title claims description 6
- 229920002334 Spandex Polymers 0.000 claims description 24
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 claims description 21
- 238000011282 treatment Methods 0.000 claims description 21
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 10
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 7
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000004372 Polyvinyl alcohol Substances 0.000 description 5
- 210000002414 leg Anatomy 0.000 description 5
- 229920002451 polyvinyl alcohol Polymers 0.000 description 5
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 description 4
- 239000000047 product Substances 0.000 description 4
- 239000004759 spandex Substances 0.000 description 4
- 238000010276 construction Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000008034 disappearance Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000013013 elastic material Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000012467 final product Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000004677 Nylon Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004952 Polyamide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000853 adhesive Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000001070 adhesive effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 235000009508 confectionery Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000010586 diagram Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000013067 intermediate product Substances 0.000 description 1
- 210000003127 knee Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 229920001778 nylon Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920002647 polyamide Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004814 polyurethane Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920002635 polyurethane Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000007789 sealing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000009958 sewing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 210000000689 upper leg Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 239000002699 waste material Substances 0.000 description 1
Images
Classifications
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
- D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
- D02G3/38—Threads in which fibres, filaments, or yarns are wound with other yarns or filaments, e.g. wrap yarns, i.e. strands of filaments or staple fibres are wrapped by a helically wound binder yarn
- D02G3/385—Threads in which fibres, filaments, or yarns are wound with other yarns or filaments, e.g. wrap yarns, i.e. strands of filaments or staple fibres are wrapped by a helically wound binder yarn using hollow spindles, e.g. making coverspun yarns
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
- D02G3/40—Yarns in which fibres are united by adhesives; Impregnated yarns or threads
- D02G3/404—Yarns or threads coated with polymeric solutions
- D02G3/406—Yarns or threads coated with polymeric solutions where the polymeric solution is removable at a later stage, e.g. by washing
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
- D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
- D04B1/106—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern at a selvedge, e.g. hems or turned welts
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
- D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
- D04B1/26—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel stockings
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B1/00—Applying liquids, gases or vapours onto textile materials to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing or impregnating
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B11/00—Treatment of selected parts of textile materials, e.g. partial dyeing
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06F—LAUNDERING, DRYING, IRONING, PRESSING OR FOLDING TEXTILE ARTICLES
- D06F7/00—Washing devices adapted to be used independently of any particular receptacle, e.g. for removable mounting on wash-tubs, bath-tubs, or the like
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a knitted textile article, comprising a tubular portion terminated by a holding edge.
- the invention particularly relates to a panty whose holding edge is constituted by the waist portion which surrounds the size of the wearer. It may relate to other tubular knitted articles, including lower body articles, such as pants or footwear intended to dress the lower body to the foot, including, in addition to the pantyhose already mentioned, the stockings, knee high, socks or high socks.
- the holding edge is conventionally made in the form of an extensible knit strip adapted to exert a pressure for holding the article in place, a pressure greater than that exerted by the rest of the article, in particular its tubular part.
- the retaining edge is usually made by a double-thick knit edge-coast, whose dimensions and the texture vary depending on the construction characteristics and thickness of the tubular part of the article. This technique is illustrated for a mid-low in the document FR 2 946 668 and for a tights in the document EP 0 556 068 .
- pantyhose by knitting two tubes on a circular loom, opening the top of each tube along a substantially vertical cut and assembling the two tubes together at the edges of said cutouts so as to form the part of pantyhose pantyhose.
- the waistband portion of the pantyhose may be formed by sewing an attached waist band or more traditionally by a double knit thickness obtained during the knitting itself, the dimensions and texture of which vary according to the characteristics of construction and thickness from the bottom to the waist.
- This double thickness can be obtained by knitting a lapel that is hooked by knitting to the tube of the article, according to what is called a "hanging plate"; this double-thickness part visually offers a fairly important demarcation with the rest of the silhouette, which can even be visible under clothing.
- a thin elastic knitted lingerie article having an elastic holding edge, comprising a thin elastic knit thickness and a strip of elastic material heat-sealed to said thin elastic knit thickness, which elastic material is advantageously also knitted in fine knit.
- the first knitted rows can not be knitted on all needles, in contrast to the "normal" rows of the tubular base article; they are knitted, for example, firstly one needle out of four, then one needle out of two; there is therefore in these first rows less absorbed yarn length (LFA) and it follows that these first rows have less extensibility than the following rows and those of the rest of the article, so that the article is a little more constrained at the edge of the belt than on the rest of the article; it is a source of discomfort for the wearer.
- LFA absorbed yarn length
- the object of the invention is to provide a manufacturing method and a tubular article thus manufactured which do not have these disadvantages.
- the invention achieves its goal by a method of manufacturing a tubular knitted article according to which the article is knitted on a circular loom having a number n of needles and a number c of falls, the knit being starting knitted on a number p of first rows on only some of the n needles before being knitted on all the needles on a number q of subsequent rows, whereupon the base knit is knitted normally, characterized in that knitting on said first rows and on said following rows an elastane yarn wrapped with a water-soluble yarn, and then subjecting the knitted article once to the article to an aqueous treatment of so as to remove the water-soluble yarn of garment, whereby it is kept on the edge of the article p + q rows of knitted naked spandex which precede the normal basic knit.
- the numbers n, c, p and q are integers.
- Water-soluble yarns which can be dissolved in steam or preferably in hot water, are well known in themselves. They have already been used in the textile industry to separate warp knitted articles, for example according to the documents FR 2,272,213 and EP 0 037 629 .
- Polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) yarns for example sold under the trade names SOLVRON® or DURAFIL®, are generally used.
- the article obtained after this first stage of the process of the invention is a blank of the finished product, which requires various treatments including generally at least one preparation treatment (for example to assemble the two tubes of the adhesive) and a dyeing treatment.
- the aqueous treatment for removing the water-soluble yarn is combined with the dyeing treatment, which is a single operation.
- the dyeing treatment also operates the prefixing of the article. It is then followed by the confection treatment necessary to finish the final article (in particular to assemble the two sticky tubes together to form the panty portion of the pantyhose), the garment then using dyed yarn since the blanks are already dyed.
- the aqueous treatment is a washing which at the same time makes it possible to prefix the article dimensionally. It is then followed by the garment treatment to form the finished article, the garment may use unbleached thread since the article is not yet dyed, and the made-up article is then sent to dyeing.
- the invention also relates to the intermediate product formed by knitting and before disappearance of the water-soluble yarn, namely the blank of tubular knitted article. More specifically, the invention relates to a blank of tubular knitted article comprising a knitted start on first rows with skipped columns followed by the next knitted rows on all the columns, whereupon the knit is the normal basic knit. characterized in that said first rows and said following rows are made of elastane yarn wrapped with a water-soluble yarn.
- the invention finally relates to the final product obtained after the disappearance of the water-soluble yarn. More specifically, the invention relates to a tubular knitted article comprising a knitted top on first rows with skipped columns followed by the next knitted rows on all the columns, after which the knit is the normal basic knit, characterized in that this said first rows and the following rows are made of elastane yarn. It will be observed that in the final product, the first p + q rows are pure elastane, naked, which is very difficult, if not impossible, to obtain without the method of the invention. In particular, it is known from the document EP 1 956 125 a knit whose edge is made by rows of elastic polyurethane yarn, but this thread is surrounded by nylon, so that the edge thus produced is not at all invisible as that of the invention.
- the number p of first rows of knitting on only part of the needles is advantageously equal to 2 and the number q is greater than or equal to 1 and preferably greater than or equal to 2.
- the elastane yarn is advantageously a yarn less than 20 dtex, for example 17 dtex, and composed of many filaments, typically more than 20, for example 31, which allows it to hang the dye well and therefore to be noticeably noticeable to the eye on the edge of the finished dyed article.
- FIG. 1 is a traditional representation of the knitting a sticky leg.
- the pantyhose leg of the invention can be knitted using a 404MJ Lonati type loom (4 falls).
- the figure 1 shows a tubular leg 10 in several successive sections: a starting part T on which specifically bears the invention, a belt portion C, a part S of panty and thigh, a part J leg itself, a part SM said "Stop meshes" and a peak part P.
- the knitting of all the parts except the starting part T is what is called here a basic or normal basic knit for this kind of article. he has been illustrated here for the four falls 1, 2, 3, 4 in a jersey knit based on polyamide 6.6 (PA66) vanized or not with elastane (R22). It could be other fibers, the invention does not relate to the realization of normal knitting.
- PA66 polyamide 6.6
- the figure details the knitting of the starting part T and schematically shows the first four rows of stitches 11, 12, 13, 14 before the aqueous treatment (right part, stage of the product blank) and after the aqueous treatment (part left, stage of the finished product).
- the four falls of the loom are knitted in the same thread 20 made of a 21-spandex Roica® 17dtex elastane of 31 monofilaments, gimped in simple flat gimp (SGP) of a water-soluble yarn 22 of PVA ( polyvinyl alcohol) SOLVRON® brand.
- SGP simple flat gimp
- PVA polyvinyl alcohol
- the knitting comprises a first row 11 knitted 1 needle out of 4 (thus on 100 needle of the 400 needles of the trade), leaving three meshes jumped on three adjacent columns between the meshes formed (it is represented by a cross each column skipped), then a second row 12 knitted 1 needle out of 2 (so on 200 needles of the 400 needles of the trade), then finally two rows 13, 14 or more knitted on the 400 needles. All these rows 11-14 are therefore spandex covered with water-soluble yarn, at the level of the blank of the product.
- the water soluble yarn 22 is dissolved in the water and is eliminated, leaving bare the elastane 21, so that the mesh is obtained.
- first rows of stitches are made of bare spandex, first 1 needle out of 4, then 1 needle out of 2, then on all the needles.
- the belt C can be knitted in single thickness, like the rest of the tights.
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Materials Engineering (AREA)
- Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
- Undergarments, Swaddling Clothes, Handkerchiefs Or Underwear Materials (AREA)
- Seasonings (AREA)
Description
La présente invention concerne un article textile tricoté, comprenant une partie tubulaire terminée par un bord de maintien.The present invention relates to a knitted textile article, comprising a tubular portion terminated by a holding edge.
L'invention concerne tout particulièrement un collant dont le bord de maintien est constitué par la partie de ceinture qui entoure la taille du porteur. Elle peut concerner d'autres articles tricotés tubulaires, notamment des articles du bas du corps, tels que des culottes ou bien des articles chaussants destinés à habiller le bas du corps jusqu'au pied, notamment, outre les collants déjà cités, les bas, mi-bas, chaussettes ou encore chaussettes hautes. Le bord de maintien est classiquement réalisé sous la forme d'une bande de tricot extensible adaptée à exercer une pression de maintien de l'article en place, pression supérieure à celle exercée par le reste de l'article, en particulier sa partie tubulaire.The invention particularly relates to a panty whose holding edge is constituted by the waist portion which surrounds the size of the wearer. It may relate to other tubular knitted articles, including lower body articles, such as pants or footwear intended to dress the lower body to the foot, including, in addition to the pantyhose already mentioned, the stockings, knee high, socks or high socks. The holding edge is conventionally made in the form of an extensible knit strip adapted to exert a pressure for holding the article in place, a pressure greater than that exerted by the rest of the article, in particular its tubular part.
Dans le cas d'un article chaussant, pour assurer efficacement le maintien sur la jambe tout en permettant à l'article de ne pas roulotter, le bord de maintien est habituellement réalisé par un bord-côte en double épaisseur de tricot, dont les dimensions et la texture varient en fonction des caractéristiques de construction et d'épaisseur de la partie tubulaire de l'article. Cette technique est illustrée pour un mi-bas dans le document
Il est connu, par exemple par les documents
Il serait souhaitable de proposer des articles à ceinture en simple épaisseur sans démarcation, obtenu directement par tricotage en métier circulaire.It would be desirable to propose single-thickness belt articles without demarcation, obtained directly by knitting in a circular loom.
Mais en pratique, il est difficile d'obtenir un bord de maintien satisfaisant en tricotant un tel article sur une machine à tricoter circulaire. Pour des raisons techniques, les premières rangées tricotées ne peuvent pas être tricotées sur toutes les aiguilles, contrairement aux rangs « normaux » de l'article de base tubulaire ; on les tricote par exemple d'abord 1 aiguille sur 4, puis 1 aiguille sur 2 ; il y a donc dans ces premières rangées moins de longueur de fil absorbée (LFA) et il en résulte que ces premières rangées présentent moins d'extensibilité que les rangées suivantes et celles du reste de l'article, ce qui fait que l'article est un peu plus contraint au niveau du bord de la ceinture que sur le reste de l'article ; c'est une source d'inconfort pour le porteur. On est donc conduit dans bien des cas à devoir couper ce bord, ce qui entraîne une opération supplémentaire et une perte de temps, et ce qui conduit aussi à un bord d'une qualité qui n'est pas nécessairement irréprochable, avec éventuellement le risque de filage de l'article.But in practice, it is difficult to obtain a satisfactory holding edge by knitting such an article on a circular knitting machine. For technical reasons, the first knitted rows can not be knitted on all needles, in contrast to the "normal" rows of the tubular base article; they are knitted, for example, firstly one needle out of four, then one needle out of two; there is therefore in these first rows less absorbed yarn length (LFA) and it follows that these first rows have less extensibility than the following rows and those of the rest of the article, so that the article is a little more constrained at the edge of the belt than on the rest of the article; it is a source of discomfort for the wearer. We are therefore led in many cases to have to cut this edge, which leads to an additional operation and a waste of time, and this also leads to an edge of a quality that is not necessarily irreproachable, possibly with the risk spinning of the article.
Le but de l'invention est de proposer un procédé de fabrication et un article tubulaire ainsi fabriqué qui ne présentent pas ces inconvénients.The object of the invention is to provide a manufacturing method and a tubular article thus manufactured which do not have these disadvantages.
L'invention atteint son but par un procédé de fabrication d'un article tricoté tubulaire selon lequel on tricote l'article sur un métier circulaire doté d'un nombre n d'aiguilles et d'un nombre c de chutes, le tricot étant au départ tricoté sur un nombre p de premières rangées sur seulement certaines des n aiguilles avant d'être tricoté sur l'ensemble des aiguilles sur un nombre q de rangées suivantes, à la suite de quoi le tricot de base est tricoté normalement, caractérisé en ce qu'on tricote sur lesdites p premières rangées et sur lesdites q rangées suivantes un fil en élasthanne guipé d'un fil hydrosoluble, et en ce qu'on soumet ensuite, une fois l'article tricoté, l'article à un traitement aqueux de manière à faire disparaître le fil hydrosoluble de guipage, moyennant quoi on conserve sur le bord de l'article p+q rangées d'élasthanne nu tricoté qui précèdent le tricot de base normal. Les nombres n, c, p et q sont des nombres entiers.The invention achieves its goal by a method of manufacturing a tubular knitted article according to which the article is knitted on a circular loom having a number n of needles and a number c of falls, the knit being starting knitted on a number p of first rows on only some of the n needles before being knitted on all the needles on a number q of subsequent rows, whereupon the base knit is knitted normally, characterized in that knitting on said first rows and on said following rows an elastane yarn wrapped with a water-soluble yarn, and then subjecting the knitted article once to the article to an aqueous treatment of so as to remove the water-soluble yarn of garment, whereby it is kept on the edge of the article p + q rows of knitted naked spandex which precede the normal basic knit. The numbers n, c, p and q are integers.
Du fait que cette bordure tricotée restante est en élasthanne pur, même les p rangées tricotées seulement sur une partie des aiguilles n'exercent pas une contention désagréable pour le porteur. La ceinture est donc confortable. De plus, ces p+q rangées tricotées en élasthanne s'opposent au filage de l'article. On obtient donc grâce à l'invention une ceinture en simple épaisseur avec une courte bordure quasiment invisible et indétectable au porter.Since this remaining knitted edge is made of pure elastane, even the p rows knitted on only a portion of the needles do not exert an unpleasant restraint for the wearer. The belt is comfortable. In addition, these p + q knitted elastane rows oppose the spinning of the article. We thus obtain through the invention a belt in single thickness with a short border almost invisible and undetectable to wear.
Les fils hydrosolubles, qui peuvent être dissous dans la vapeur ou de préférence dans de l'eau chaude, sont bien connus en eux-mêmes. On les a déjà utilisés dans l'industrie textile pour séparer des articles tricotés à la chaîne, par exemple selon les documents
L'article obtenu après ce premier le premier stade du procédé de l'invention est une ébauche du produit fini, qui nécessite divers traitements dont généralement au moins un traitement de confection (par exemple pour assembler les deux tubes du collant) et un traitement de teinture.The article obtained after this first stage of the process of the invention is a blank of the finished product, which requires various treatments including generally at least one preparation treatment (for example to assemble the two tubes of the adhesive) and a dyeing treatment.
Selon une méthode préférée, le traitement aqueux pour faire disparaître le fil hydrosoluble est combiné au traitement de teinture, ce qui ne fait qu'une seule opération. Le traitement de teinture opère aussi le préfixage de l'article. Il est alors suivi du traitement de confection nécessaire pour finir l'article définitif (notamment assembler entre elles les deux tubes de collant pour former la partie slip du collant), la confection utilisant alors du fil teint puisque les ébauches sont déjà teintes.According to a preferred method, the aqueous treatment for removing the water-soluble yarn is combined with the dyeing treatment, which is a single operation. The dyeing treatment also operates the prefixing of the article. It is then followed by the confection treatment necessary to finish the final article (in particular to assemble the two sticky tubes together to form the panty portion of the pantyhose), the garment then using dyed yarn since the blanks are already dyed.
Selon une autre méthode, le traitement aqueux est un lavage qui permet en même temps de préfixer l'article dimensionnellement. Il est alors suivi du traitement de confection pour former l'article fini, la confection pouvant utiliser du fil écru puisque l'article n'est pas encore teint, et l'article confectionné est ensuite envoyé en teinture.According to another method, the aqueous treatment is a washing which at the same time makes it possible to prefix the article dimensionally. It is then followed by the garment treatment to form the finished article, the garment may use unbleached thread since the article is not yet dyed, and the made-up article is then sent to dyeing.
L'invention concerne aussi le produit intermédiaire formé par tricotage et avant disparition du fil hydrosoluble, à savoir l'ébauche d'article tricoté tubulaire. Plus précisément, l'invention concerne une ébauche d'article tricoté tubulaire comprenant un départ tricoté sur p premières rangées avec des colonnes sautées suivi de q rangées suivantes tricotées sur toutes les colonnes, à la suite de quoi le tricot est le tricot de base normal, caractérisé en ce lesdites p premières rangées et lesdites q rangées suivantes sont réalisées en un fil d'élasthanne guipé d'un fil hydrosoluble.The invention also relates to the intermediate product formed by knitting and before disappearance of the water-soluble yarn, namely the blank of tubular knitted article. More specifically, the invention relates to a blank of tubular knitted article comprising a knitted start on first rows with skipped columns followed by the next knitted rows on all the columns, whereupon the knit is the normal basic knit. characterized in that said first rows and said following rows are made of elastane yarn wrapped with a water-soluble yarn.
L'invention concerne enfin le produit final obtenu après disparition du fil hydrosoluble. Plus précisément, l'invention concerne un article tricoté tubulaire comprenant un départ tricoté sur p premières rangées avec des colonnes sautées suivi de q rangées suivantes tricotées sur toutes les colonnes, à la suite de quoi le tricot est le tricot de base normal, caractérisé en ce lesdites p premières rangées et lesdites q rangées suivantes sont réalisées en un fil en élasthanne. On observera que dans le produit final, les premières p + q rangées sont en élasthanne pur, nu, ce qui est très difficile, voire impossible, à obtenir sans le procédé de l'invention. En particulier, on connaît par le document
Avantageusement, l'article est tricoté en jersey sur un métier circulaire, par exemple un métier de 400 aiguilles à quatre chutes (n=400, c=4). Le nombre p de premières rangées à tricotage sur une partie seulement des aiguilles est avantageusement égal à 2 et le nombre q est supérieur ou égal à 1 et de préférence supérieur ou égal à 2. Avantageusement le fil utilisé pour les p premières rangées, un fil d'élasthanne (par exemple de Roica®) guipé d'un fil de PVA (par exemple Solvron®), est tricoté 1 aiguille sur 4 la première rangée, 1 aiguille sur 2 la seconde, et sur toutes les aiguilles dans les q (=2) rangées suivantes de la bordure. Le fil d'élasthanne est avantageusement un fil de titre inférieur à 20 dtex, par exemple 17 dtex, et composé de nombreux filaments, typiquement plus de 20, par exemple 31, ce qui lui permet de bien accrocher la teinture et donc d'être sensiblement indécelable à l'oeil sur la bordure de l'article teint fini.Advantageously, the article is knitted in jersey on a circular loom, for example a loom of 400 needles with four drops (n = 400, c = 4). The number p of first rows of knitting on only part of the needles is advantageously equal to 2 and the number q is greater than or equal to 1 and preferably greater than or equal to 2. Advantageously the thread used for the first p rows, a thread of elastane (eg Roica®) wrapped with PVA yarn (eg Solvron®) is knitted 1 needle on 4 the first row, 1 needle on 2 the second, and on all the needles in the q ( = 2) next rows of the border. The elastane yarn is advantageously a yarn less than 20 dtex, for example 17 dtex, and composed of many filaments, typically more than 20, for example 31, which allows it to hang the dye well and therefore to be noticeably noticeable to the eye on the edge of the finished dyed article.
D'autres particularités et avantages de l'invention ressortiront à la lecture de la description faite ci-après, donnée à titre indicatif mais non limitatif, en référence au dessin annexé sur lequel la figure unique 1 représente de manière traditionnelle le schéma de tricotage d'une jambe de collant.Other features and advantages of the invention will emerge on reading the description given below, given by way of indication but not limitation, with reference to the accompanying drawing in which the single FIG. 1 is a traditional representation of the knitting a sticky leg.
La jambe de collant de l'invention peut être tricotée en utilisant un métier de marque Lonati type 404MJ (4 chutes).The pantyhose leg of the invention can be knitted using a 404MJ Lonati type loom (4 falls).
La
La figure détaille le tricotage de la partie de départ T et montre schématiquement les quatre premières rangées de mailles 11, 12, 13, 14 avant le traitement aqueux (partie droite, stade de l'ébauche de produit) et après le traitement aqueux (partie gauche, stade du produit fini). Selon l'invention, les quatre chutes du métier sont tricotées en un même fil 20 constitué d'un élasthanne 21 de la marque Roica® 17dtex de 31 monofilaments, guipé en simple guipage plat (SGP) d'un fil hydrosoluble 22 de PVA (alcool polyvinylique) de marque SOLVRON®. Un tel fil guipé 20 est beaucoup plus facile à tricoter qu'un fil d'élasthanne nu, très difficile à tricoter. Pour initier le tricotage, il n'est pas facile de tricoter directement sur toutes les aiguilles en simple chute ; on doit tricoter progressivement sur un quart des aiguilles, puis sur la moitié des aiguilles, puis sur toutes les aiguilles. Donc, comme le représente le schéma, le tricotage comprend une première rangée 11 tricotée 1 aiguille sur 4 (donc sur 100 aiguille des 400 aiguilles du métier), laissant trois mailles sautées sur trois colonnes adjacentes entre les mailles formées (on a représenté par une croix chaque colonne sautée), puis une seconde rangée 12 tricotée 1 aiguille sur 2 (donc sur 200 aiguilles des 400 aiguilles du métier), puis enfin deux rangées 13, 14 ou plus tricotées sur les 400 aiguilles. Toutes ces rangées 11-14 sont donc en élasthanne guipé de fil hydrosoluble, au niveau de l'ébauche du produit.The figure details the knitting of the starting part T and schematically shows the first four rows of
Une fois qu'un traitement aqueux convenable, de préférence à chaud, est pratiqué, le fil hydrosoluble 22 de guipage est dissous dans l'eau et s'élimine, laissant à nu l'élasthanne 21, de sorte qu'on obtient les mailles représentée sur la partie gauche de la figure, où les premières rangées de mailles sont en élasthanne nu, d'abord 1 aiguille sur 4, puis 1 aiguille sur 2, puis sur toute les aiguilles. Ces rangées 11-14 d'élasthanne nu s'étirent facilement, même pour les deux premières rangées qui ne sont pas tricotées sur toutes les aiguilles, du fait que l'élasthanne est pur et hautement élastique. Ces premières rangées, quatre rangées ici, à peine visibles à l'oeil nu, ne causent aucune gêne au porter et permettent ensuite de continuer le tricotage normal. La ceinture C peut donc être tricotée en simple épaisseur, comme le reste du collant.Once a suitable aqueous treatment, preferably hot, is practiced, the water
Claims (10)
- Method for manufacturing a tubular knitted item (10) whereby the item is knitted on a circular loom provided with a number n of needles and a number c of feeds, the knit being knitted to start with on a number p of first rows on just some of the n needles before being knitted on all of the needles over a following number q of rows, after which the basic knit is knitted normally, characterized in that an elastane yarn (21) wrapped in a hydrosoluble yarn (22) is knitted in the said p first rows (11, 12) and in the said q following rows (13, 14), and in that once the item has been knitted the item is then subjected to a water-based treatment in order to cause the water-soluble wrapping yarn (22) to disappear, by means of which p+q rows (11-14) of knitted elastane which preceed the normal base knit are maintained at the edge of the item.
- Method according to Claim 1, characterized in that the water-based treatment to make the water-soluble yarn (22) disappear is combined with a dying treatment.
- Method according to Claim 2, characterized in that the dying treatment is followed by a making-up treatment using dyed yarn.
- Method according to Claim 1, characterized in that the water-based treatment to make the water-soluble yarn (22) disappear is a washing.
- Method according to Claim 4, characterized in that the water-based treatment is followed by a making-up treatment using unbleached yarn and the made-up item is then sent for dying.
- Rough form of tubular knitted item (10) comprising a knitted start (T) over p first rows with some wales skipped, followed by following q rows knitted on all the wales, after which the knitting is normal basic knitting, characterized in that the said p first rows (11, 12) and the said q following rows (13, 14) are produced in an elastane yarn (21) wrapped in a water-soluble yarn (22).
- Tubular knitted item (10) comprising a knitted start (T) over p first rows with some wales skipped, followed by q following rows knitted on all the wales, after which the knitting is normal knitting,
characterized in that the said p first rows (11, 12) and the said q following rows (13, 14) are produced exclusively in a bare elastane yarn (21). - Item according to Claim 7, characterized in that the elastane yarn (21) has a count of below 20 dtex.
- Item according to Claim 7 or 8, characterized in that the elastane yarn (21) is made up of over 20 filaments.
- Item according to any one of Claims 7 to 9, characterized in that the first row (11) is knitted with one stitch knitted and three wales skipped, and the second row (12) is knitted with one stitch knitted and one wale skipped.
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR1259871A FR2996860B1 (en) | 2012-10-16 | 2012-10-16 | DRAWING AND TUBULAR KNITTED ARTICLE WITH SINGLE THICK MAINTAINING AND METHOD OF MANUFACTURING SUCH ARTICLE |
PCT/FR2013/052413 WO2014060682A1 (en) | 2012-10-16 | 2013-10-10 | Blank and tubular knitted item having a retaining edge of a single thickness and method for producing such an item |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
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EP2909368A1 EP2909368A1 (en) | 2015-08-26 |
EP2909368B1 true EP2909368B1 (en) | 2019-09-11 |
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EP13785542.5A Active EP2909368B1 (en) | 2012-10-16 | 2013-10-10 | Blank and tubular knit article with single thickness stay-up hem, and method of making this article |
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US (1) | US9976235B2 (en) |
EP (1) | EP2909368B1 (en) |
CN (1) | CN104736751B (en) |
BR (1) | BR112015006690A2 (en) |
CA (1) | CA2883829C (en) |
ES (1) | ES2759009T3 (en) |
FR (1) | FR2996860B1 (en) |
MX (1) | MX349032B (en) |
WO (1) | WO2014060682A1 (en) |
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DE102015100936B4 (en) * | 2015-01-22 | 2018-08-23 | Medi Gmbh & Co. Kg | Process for producing a knitted part, in particular a bandage, as well as a knitted part |
US10415164B2 (en) * | 2017-05-02 | 2019-09-17 | Nike, Inc. | Upper-torso garment with three-dimensional knit structures |
EP3818203A1 (en) * | 2018-07-02 | 2021-05-12 | The LYCRA Company UK Limited | Knit structures with reduced curl and roll over and a method of making same |
US20210071329A1 (en) * | 2019-09-09 | 2021-03-11 | Kayser-Roth Corporation | Garment with knitted silicone yarns and manner of making same |
Family Cites Families (18)
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US2342098A (en) * | 1942-05-01 | 1944-02-22 | Edward D Andrews | Waterproof elastic thread and fabric |
US3392553A (en) * | 1965-03-30 | 1968-07-16 | Burlington Industries Inc | Stay-up stocking |
FR2225026A5 (en) | 1973-04-04 | 1974-10-31 | Dim Sa | |
NL7406824A (en) | 1974-05-21 | 1975-11-25 | Jansen Koninkl Textiel | METHOD AND DEVICE FOR KNITTING SOCKS. |
FR2476155A1 (en) | 1980-02-20 | 1981-08-21 | Breilly Sa | PROCESS FOR THE PREPARATION OF A KNITTED, SEWNED TIGHTS AND INCORPORATED ELASTIC BELT AND COLLAR OBTAINED |
IE50773B1 (en) | 1980-04-03 | 1986-07-09 | Peck H T H Holdings Ltd | Production of knitted garments |
US5062161A (en) * | 1988-12-16 | 1991-11-05 | Golden Needles Knitting And Glove Co., Inc. | Method of making garment, garment and strand material |
EP0510093B1 (en) * | 1990-01-09 | 1994-07-27 | AlliedSignal Inc. | Cut resistant protective glove |
JP2561879B2 (en) * | 1991-08-05 | 1996-12-11 | トスコ株式会社 | Coated elastic yarn and method for producing the same |
US5280652A (en) * | 1992-02-14 | 1994-01-25 | Sara Lee Corporation | Garment waistband construction |
ITCO990031A1 (en) * | 1999-11-15 | 2001-05-15 | Franco Sciacca | METHOD AND EQUIPMENT FOR THE PRODUCTION OF THREE-DIMENSIONAL KNITWEAR AND FOOTWEAR ITEMS AND RESULTING PRODUCTS. |
FR2819827B1 (en) | 2001-01-22 | 2003-09-19 | Dim Sa | ARTICLE OF LINGERIE IN TUBULAR KNIT, ESPECIALLY TIGHTS, WITH SECTIONS OF DIFFERENT CONTAINMENT WITHOUT DEMARCATION |
US6803332B2 (en) * | 2001-04-10 | 2004-10-12 | World Fibers, Inc. | Composite yarn, intermediate fabric product and method of producing a metallic fabric |
WO2003099045A1 (en) * | 2002-05-22 | 2003-12-04 | Sara Lee Corporation | A brassiere and a method of manufacturing two seamless circular knit double layer brassieres from a single blank |
JP4943693B2 (en) * | 2005-11-10 | 2012-05-30 | グンゼ株式会社 | Terminal knitting organization and clothing including the terminal knitting organization |
FR2942109B1 (en) | 2009-02-18 | 2011-04-08 | Dbapparel Operations | ELASTIC TRICOTE LINGERIE ARTICLE ON BOARD REPORTED GLUE |
FR2946668B1 (en) | 2009-06-16 | 2011-12-09 | Dbapparel Operations | TRICOTIC TEXTILE ARTICLE COMPRISING AN EDGE OF SUPPORT |
WO2012086563A1 (en) * | 2010-12-20 | 2012-06-28 | 東レ・オペロンテックス株式会社 | Knitted fabric having elastic fibers, process for producing same, and stretch garment and stretch garment material both obtained using the knitted fabric |
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2012
- 2012-10-16 FR FR1259871A patent/FR2996860B1/en active Active
-
2013
- 2013-10-10 BR BR112015006690A patent/BR112015006690A2/en not_active IP Right Cessation
- 2013-10-10 MX MX2015003836A patent/MX349032B/en active IP Right Grant
- 2013-10-10 ES ES13785542T patent/ES2759009T3/en active Active
- 2013-10-10 US US14/436,273 patent/US9976235B2/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 2013-10-10 CN CN201380053980.5A patent/CN104736751B/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 2013-10-10 WO PCT/FR2013/052413 patent/WO2014060682A1/en active Application Filing
- 2013-10-10 EP EP13785542.5A patent/EP2909368B1/en active Active
- 2013-10-10 CA CA2883829A patent/CA2883829C/en active Active
Non-Patent Citations (1)
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ES2759009T3 (en) | 2020-05-07 |
FR2996860A1 (en) | 2014-04-18 |
FR2996860B1 (en) | 2018-04-06 |
US20150275407A1 (en) | 2015-10-01 |
WO2014060682A1 (en) | 2014-04-24 |
US9976235B2 (en) | 2018-05-22 |
CN104736751A (en) | 2015-06-24 |
CN104736751B (en) | 2016-12-14 |
BR112015006690A2 (en) | 2017-07-04 |
MX2015003836A (en) | 2015-07-17 |
EP2909368A1 (en) | 2015-08-26 |
CA2883829A1 (en) | 2014-04-24 |
MX349032B (en) | 2017-07-07 |
CA2883829C (en) | 2020-07-21 |
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