EP2909368A1 - Blank and tubular knitted item having a retaining edge of a single thickness and method for producing such an item - Google Patents

Blank and tubular knitted item having a retaining edge of a single thickness and method for producing such an item

Info

Publication number
EP2909368A1
EP2909368A1 EP13785542.5A EP13785542A EP2909368A1 EP 2909368 A1 EP2909368 A1 EP 2909368A1 EP 13785542 A EP13785542 A EP 13785542A EP 2909368 A1 EP2909368 A1 EP 2909368A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
knitted
rows
article
knit
yarn
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP13785542.5A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP2909368B1 (en
Inventor
Gilles GARCON
Laurent Massotte
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
DBI Operations Europe SAS
Original Assignee
Dbapparel Operations SAS
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Dbapparel Operations SAS filed Critical Dbapparel Operations SAS
Publication of EP2909368A1 publication Critical patent/EP2909368A1/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP2909368B1 publication Critical patent/EP2909368B1/en
Active legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

Links

Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/38—Threads in which fibres, filaments, or yarns are wound with other yarns or filaments, e.g. wrap yarns, i.e. strands of filaments or staple fibres are wrapped by a helically wound binder yarn
    • D02G3/385—Threads in which fibres, filaments, or yarns are wound with other yarns or filaments, e.g. wrap yarns, i.e. strands of filaments or staple fibres are wrapped by a helically wound binder yarn using hollow spindles, e.g. making coverspun yarns
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/40—Yarns in which fibres are united by adhesives; Impregnated yarns or threads
    • D02G3/404—Yarns or threads coated with polymeric solutions
    • D02G3/406—Yarns or threads coated with polymeric solutions where the polymeric solution is removable at a later stage, e.g. by washing
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
    • D04B1/106—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern at a selvedge, e.g. hems or turned welts
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/26—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel stockings
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B1/00—Applying liquids, gases or vapours onto textile materials to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing or impregnating
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B11/00—Treatment of selected parts of textile materials, e.g. partial dyeing
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06F—LAUNDERING, DRYING, IRONING, PRESSING OR FOLDING TEXTILE ARTICLES
    • D06F7/00—Washing devices adapted to be used independently of any particular receptacle, e.g. for removable mounting on wash-tubs, bath-tubs, or the like

Definitions

  • Blank and tubular knitted article having a single thickness holding edge and method of making such an article
  • the present invention relates to a knitted textile article, comprising a tubular portion terminated by a holding edge.
  • the invention particularly relates to a panty whose holding edge is constituted by the waist portion which surrounds the size of the wearer. It may relate to other tubular knitted articles, including lower body articles, such as pants or footwear intended to dress the lower body to the foot, including, in addition to the pantyhose already mentioned, the stockings, knee high, socks or high socks.
  • the holding edge is conventionally made in the form of an extensible knit strip adapted to exert a pressure for holding the article in place, a pressure greater than that exerted by the rest of the article, in particular its tubular part.
  • the retaining edge is usually made by a double-thick knit edge-coast, whose dimensions and the texture vary depending on the construction characteristics and thickness of the tubular part of the article. This technique is illustrated for a mid-bottom in the document FR 2 946 668.
  • panty pantyhose may be formed by sewing an attached waist band or more traditionally by a double knit thickness obtained during the knitting itself, the dimensions and texture of which vary according to the characteristics of construction and thickness from the bottom to the waist.
  • This double thickness can be obtained by knitting a lapel that is hooked by knitting to the tube of the article, according to what is called a "hanging plate"; this double-thickness part visually offers a fairly important demarcation with the rest of the silhouette, which can even be visible under clothing.
  • a thin elastic knitted lingerie article having an elastic holding edge, comprising a thin elastic knit thickness and a strip of elastic material thermally bonded to said thin elastic knit thickness, this elastic material being advantageously also knitted fine knit.
  • the first knitted rows can not be knitted on all needles, in contrast to the "normal" rows of the tubular base article; they are knitted, for example, firstly one needle out of four, then one needle out of two; there is therefore in these first rows less absorbed yarn length (LFA) and it follows that these first rows have less extensibility than the following rows and those of the rest of the article, so that the article is a little more constrained at the edge of the belt than on the rest of the article; it is a source of discomfort for the wearer.
  • LFA absorbed yarn length
  • the object of the invention is to provide a manufacturing method and a tubular article thus manufactured which do not have these disadvantages.
  • the invention achieves its goal by a method of manufacturing a tubular knitted article according to which the article is knitted on a circular loom having a number n of needles and a number c of falls, the knit being starting knitted on a number p of first rows on only some of the n needles before being knitted on all the needles on a number q of subsequent rows, whereupon the base knit is knitted normally, characterized in that knitting on said first rows and on said following rows an elastane yarn wrapped with a water-soluble yarn, and then subjecting the knitted article once to the article to an aqueous treatment of so as to remove the water-soluble yarn of garment, whereby it is kept on the edge of the article p + q rows of knitted naked spandex which precede the normal basic knit.
  • the numbers n, c, p and q are integers.
  • Water-soluble yarns which can be dissolved in steam or preferably in hot water, are well known in themselves. They have already been used in the textile industry to separate warp knitted articles, for example according to documents FR 2 272 213 and EP 0 037 629.
  • Polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) threads for example sold under the SOLVRON® or DURAFIL® brand.
  • the article obtained after this first stage of the process of the invention is a blank of the finished product, which requires various treatments including generally at least one preparation treatment (for example to assemble the two tubes of the adhesive) and a dyeing treatment.
  • the aqueous treatment for removing the water-soluble yarn is combined with the dyeing treatment, which is a single operation.
  • the dyeing treatment also operates the prefixing of the article. It is then followed by the confection treatment necessary to finish the final article (in particular to assemble the two sticky tubes together to form the panty portion of the pantyhose), the garment then using dyed yarn since the blanks are already dyed.
  • the aqueous treatment is a washing which at the same time makes it possible to prefix the article dimensionally. It is then followed by the garment treatment to form the finished article, the garment may use unbleached thread since the article is not yet dyed, and the made-up article is then sent to dyeing.
  • the invention also relates to the intermediate product formed by knitting and before disappearance of the water-soluble yarn, namely the blank of tubular knitted article. More specifically, the invention relates to a blank of tubular knitted article comprising a knitted start on first rows with skipped columns followed by the next knitted rows on all the columns, whereupon the knit is the normal basic knit. characterized in that said first rows and said following rows are made of elastane yarn wrapped with a water-soluble yarn.
  • the invention finally relates to the final product obtained after the disappearance of the water-soluble yarn. More specifically, the invention relates to a tubular knitted article comprising a knitted top on first rows with skipped columns followed by the next knitted rows on all the columns, after which the knit is the normal basic knit, characterized in that this said first rows and the following rows are made of elastane yarn. It will be observed that in the final product, the first p + q rows are pure elastane, naked, which is very difficult, if not impossible, to obtain without the method of the invention. In particular, it is known from EP 1 956 125 a knit whose edge is made by rows based on elastic polyurethane yarn, but this thread is surrounded by nylon, so that the edge thus produced is not at all invisible like that of the invention.
  • the number p of first rows of knitting on only part of the needles is advantageously equal to 2 and the number q is greater than or equal to 1 and preferably greater than or equal to 2.
  • the elastane yarn is advantageously a yarn less than 20 dtex, for example 17 dtex, and composed of many filaments, typically more than 20, for example 31, which allows it to hang the dye well and therefore to be significantly undetectable to the eye on the edge of the finished dyed article.
  • FIG. 1 is a traditional representation of the knitting a sticky leg.
  • the pantyhose leg of the invention can be knitted using a 404MJ Lonati type loom (4 falls).
  • FIG. 1 shows a tubular leg 10 in several successive sections: a starting part T on which the invention specifically bears, a belt portion C, a panty and thigh part S, a leg part J itself, a SM part called "stop meshes" and a part P peak.
  • the knitting of all the parts except the starting part T is what is called here a basic or normal basic knit for this kind of article. he has been illustrated here for the four falls 1, 2, 3, 4 in a jersey knit based on polyamide 6.6 (PA66) vanized or not with elastane (R22). It could be other fibers, the invention does not relate to the realization of normal knitting.
  • PA66 polyamide 6.6
  • the figure details the knitting of the starting part T and schematically shows the first four rows of stitches 1 1, 12, 13, 14 before the aqueous treatment (right part, stage of the product blank) and after the aqueous treatment ( left side, stage of the finished product).
  • the four falls of the loom are knitted in the same thread 20 made of a 21-spandex Roica® 17dtex elastane of 31 monofilaments, gimped in simple flat gimp (SGP) of a water-soluble yarn 22 of PVA ( polyvinyl alcohol) SOLVRON® brand.
  • SGP simple flat gimp
  • PVA polyvinyl alcohol
  • the knitting comprises a first row 1 1 knitted 1 needle out of 4 (so on 100 needle of the 400 needles of the trade), leaving three meshes jumped on three adjacent columns between the meshes formed (it is represented by one cross each skipped column), then a second row 12 knitted 1 needle out of 2 (so on 200 needles of the 400 needles of the trade), then finally two rows 13, 14 or more knitted on the 400 needles. All these rows 1 1 -14 are elasthanne guiped water-soluble yarn, at the level of the blank of the product.
  • the water soluble yarn 22 is dissolved in the water and is eliminated, leaving bare the elastane 21, so that the mesh is obtained.
  • the first rows of stitches are made of bare spandex, first 1 needle out of 4, then 1 needle out of 2, then on all the needles.
  • These rows 1 1 -14 bare elastane stretch easily, even for the first two rows that are not knitted on all needles, the Elastane is pure and highly elastic.
  • the belt C can be knitted in single thickness, like the rest of the tights.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Materials Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Seasonings (AREA)
  • Undergarments, Swaddling Clothes, Handkerchiefs Or Underwear Materials (AREA)

Abstract

The method of producing a tubular knitted item (10), in particular a leg for a pair of tights, involves preceding the normal basic knit with a start that involves knitting, on only a portion of the needles on p first courses (11, 12) and on all of the needles on q subsequent courses (13, 14), an elastane yarn (21) covered with a water-soluble yarn (22); then, once the item has been knitted, the item undergoes an aqueous treatment, for example combined with dyeing, so as to make the water-soluble yarn (22) covering disappear, whereby the p+q courses (11-14) of knitted elastane that precede the normal basic knit are kept on the edge of the item.

Description

Ébauche et article tricoté tubulaire à bord de maintien en simple épaisseur et procédé de fabrication d'un tel article  Blank and tubular knitted article having a single thickness holding edge and method of making such an article
La présente invention concerne un article textile tricoté, comprenant une partie tubulaire terminée par un bord de maintien. The present invention relates to a knitted textile article, comprising a tubular portion terminated by a holding edge.
L'invention concerne tout particulièrement un collant dont le bord de maintien est constitué par la partie de ceinture qui entoure la taille du porteur. Elle peut concerner d'autres articles tricotés tubulaires, notamment des articles du bas du corps, tels que des culottes ou bien des articles chaussants destinés à habiller le bas du corps jusqu'au pied, notamment, outre les collants déjà cités, les bas, mi-bas, chaussettes ou encore chaussettes hautes. Le bord de maintien est classiquement réalisé sous la forme d'une bande de tricot extensible adaptée à exercer une pression de maintien de l'article en place, pression supérieure à celle exercée par le reste de l'article, en particulier sa partie tubulaire.  The invention particularly relates to a panty whose holding edge is constituted by the waist portion which surrounds the size of the wearer. It may relate to other tubular knitted articles, including lower body articles, such as pants or footwear intended to dress the lower body to the foot, including, in addition to the pantyhose already mentioned, the stockings, knee high, socks or high socks. The holding edge is conventionally made in the form of an extensible knit strip adapted to exert a pressure for holding the article in place, a pressure greater than that exerted by the rest of the article, in particular its tubular part.
Dans le cas d'un article chaussant, pour assurer efficacement le maintien sur la jambe tout en permettant à l'article de ne pas roulotter, le bord de maintien est habituellement réalisé par un bord-côte en double épaisseur de tricot, dont les dimensions et la texture varient en fonction des caractéristiques de construction et d'épaisseur de la partie tubulaire de l'article. Cette technique est illustrée pour un mi-bas dans le document FR 2 946 668.  In the case of an article of footwear, to effectively maintain the leg while allowing the article not to roll, the retaining edge is usually made by a double-thick knit edge-coast, whose dimensions and the texture vary depending on the construction characteristics and thickness of the tubular part of the article. This technique is illustrated for a mid-bottom in the document FR 2 946 668.
Il est connu, par exemple par les documents GB 1 427 777, EP 0 034 981 ou FR 2 819 827, de fabriquer des collants en tricotant deux tubes sur un métier circulaire, en ouvrant le haut de chaque tube le long d'une découpe sensiblement verticale et en assemblant par confection les deux tubes au niveau des bords desdites découpes de manière à former la partie de culotte du collant. La partie de ceinture du collant peut être est formée en cousant une bande de ceinture rapportée ou plus traditionnellement par une double épaisseur de tricot obtenue lors du tricotage lui-même et dont les dimensions et la texture varient en fonction des caractéristiques de construction et d'épaisseur de la partie inférieure à la ceinture. Cette double épaisseur peut être obtenue en tricotant un revers qu'on vient accrocher par tricotage au tube de l'article, selon ce qu'on appelle un « accrochage plateau » ; cette partie en double épaisseur offre visuellement une démarcation assez importante avec le reste de la silhouette, qui peut même être visible sous des vêtements. Dans le but de réduire cette double épaisseur traditionnelle, on a proposé dans le document FR 2 942 109 un article de lingerie tricoté élastique fin, présentant un bord de maintien élastique, comprenant une épaisseur de tricot élastique fin et une bande de matière élastique thermocollée sur ladite épaisseur de tricot élastique fin, cette matière élastique étant avantageusement également tricotée en tricot fin. Quoique cet article ait rencontré un grand succès, il impose une opération de thermocollage supplémentaire dans la fabrication du collant. It is known, for example from documents GB 1 427 777, EP 0 034 981 or FR 2 819 827, to manufacture tights by knitting two tubes on a circular loom, by opening the top of each tube along a blank substantially vertically and assembling by making the two tubes at the edges of said cutouts so as to form the panty panty portion. The waistband portion of the pantyhose may be formed by sewing an attached waist band or more traditionally by a double knit thickness obtained during the knitting itself, the dimensions and texture of which vary according to the characteristics of construction and thickness from the bottom to the waist. This double thickness can be obtained by knitting a lapel that is hooked by knitting to the tube of the article, according to what is called a "hanging plate"; this double-thickness part visually offers a fairly important demarcation with the rest of the silhouette, which can even be visible under clothing. In order to reduce this traditional double thickness, it has been proposed in FR 2 942 109 a thin elastic knitted lingerie article, having an elastic holding edge, comprising a thin elastic knit thickness and a strip of elastic material thermally bonded to said thin elastic knit thickness, this elastic material being advantageously also knitted fine knit. Although this article has met with great success, it imposes an additional heat sealing operation in the manufacture of tights.
Il serait souhaitable de proposer des articles à ceinture en simple épaisseur sans démarcation, obtenu directement par tricotage en métier circulaire.  It would be desirable to propose single-thickness belt articles without demarcation, obtained directly by knitting in a circular loom.
Mais en pratique, il est difficile d'obtenir un bord de maintien satisfaisant en tricotant un tel article sur une machine à tricoter circulaire. Pour des raisons techniques, les premières rangées tricotées ne peuvent pas être tricotées sur toutes les aiguilles, contrairement aux rangs « normaux » de l'article de base tubulaire ; on les tricote par exemple d'abord 1 aiguille sur 4, puis 1 aiguille sur 2 ; il y a donc dans ces premières rangées moins de longueur de fil absorbée (LFA) et il en résulte que ces premières rangées présentent moins d'extensibilité que les rangées suivantes et celles du reste de l'article, ce qui fait que l'article est un peu plus contraint au niveau du bord de la ceinture que sur le reste de l'article ; c'est une source d'inconfort pour le porteur. On est donc conduit dans bien des cas à devoir couper ce bord, ce qui entraîne une opération supplémentaire et une perte de temps, et ce qui conduit aussi à un bord d'une qualité qui n'est pas nécessairement irréprochable, avec éventuellement le risque de filage de l'article. Le but de l'invention est de proposer un procédé de fabrication et un article tubulaire ainsi fabriqué qui ne présentent pas ces inconvénients. But in practice, it is difficult to obtain a satisfactory holding edge by knitting such an article on a circular knitting machine. For technical reasons, the first knitted rows can not be knitted on all needles, in contrast to the "normal" rows of the tubular base article; they are knitted, for example, firstly one needle out of four, then one needle out of two; there is therefore in these first rows less absorbed yarn length (LFA) and it follows that these first rows have less extensibility than the following rows and those of the rest of the article, so that the article is a little more constrained at the edge of the belt than on the rest of the article; it is a source of discomfort for the wearer. We are therefore led in many cases to have to cut this edge, which leads to an additional operation and a waste of time, and this also leads to an edge of a quality that is not necessarily irreproachable, possibly with the risk spinning of the article. The object of the invention is to provide a manufacturing method and a tubular article thus manufactured which do not have these disadvantages.
L'invention atteint son but par un procédé de fabrication d'un article tricoté tubulaire selon lequel on tricote l'article sur un métier circulaire doté d'un nombre n d'aiguilles et d'un nombre c de chutes, le tricot étant au départ tricoté sur un nombre p de premières rangées sur seulement certaines des n aiguilles avant d'être tricoté sur l'ensemble des aiguilles sur un nombre q de rangées suivantes, à la suite de quoi le tricot de base est tricoté normalement, caractérisé en ce qu'on tricote sur lesdites p premières rangées et sur lesdites q rangées suivantes un fil en élasthanne guipé d'un fil hydrosoluble, et en ce qu'on soumet ensuite, une fois l'article tricoté, l'article à un traitement aqueux de manière à faire disparaître le fil hydrosoluble de guipage, moyennant quoi on conserve sur le bord de l'article p+q rangées d'élasthanne nu tricoté qui précèdent le tricot de base normal. Les nombres n, c, p et q sont des nombres entiers.  The invention achieves its goal by a method of manufacturing a tubular knitted article according to which the article is knitted on a circular loom having a number n of needles and a number c of falls, the knit being starting knitted on a number p of first rows on only some of the n needles before being knitted on all the needles on a number q of subsequent rows, whereupon the base knit is knitted normally, characterized in that knitting on said first rows and on said following rows an elastane yarn wrapped with a water-soluble yarn, and then subjecting the knitted article once to the article to an aqueous treatment of so as to remove the water-soluble yarn of garment, whereby it is kept on the edge of the article p + q rows of knitted naked spandex which precede the normal basic knit. The numbers n, c, p and q are integers.
Du fait que cette bordure tricotée restante est en élasthanne pur, même les p rangées tricotées seulement sur une partie des aiguilles n'exercent pas une contention désagréable pour le porteur. La ceinture est donc confortable. De plus, ces p+q rangées tricotées en élasthanne s'opposent au filage de l'article. On obtient donc grâce à l'invention une ceinture en simple épaisseur avec une courte bordure quasiment invisible et indétectable au porter.  Since this remaining knitted edge is made of pure elastane, even the p rows knitted on only a portion of the needles do not exert an unpleasant restraint for the wearer. The belt is comfortable. In addition, these p + q knitted elastane rows oppose the spinning of the article. We thus obtain through the invention a belt in single thickness with a short border almost invisible and undetectable to wear.
Les fils hydrosolubles, qui peuvent être dissous dans la vapeur ou de préférence dans de l'eau chaude, sont bien connus en eux-mêmes. On les a déjà utilisés dans l'industrie textile pour séparer des articles tricotés à la chaîne, par exemple selon les documents FR 2 272 213 et EP 0 037 629. On utilise généralement des fils en alcool polyvinylique (PVA), par exemple vendus sous les marque SOLVRON® ou DURAFIL®.  Water-soluble yarns, which can be dissolved in steam or preferably in hot water, are well known in themselves. They have already been used in the textile industry to separate warp knitted articles, for example according to documents FR 2 272 213 and EP 0 037 629. Polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) threads, for example sold under the SOLVRON® or DURAFIL® brand.
L'article obtenu après ce premier le premier stade du procédé de l'invention est une ébauche du produit fini, qui nécessite divers traitements dont généralement au moins un traitement de confection (par exemple pour assembler les deux tubes du collant) et un traitement de teinture. The article obtained after this first stage of the process of the invention is a blank of the finished product, which requires various treatments including generally at least one preparation treatment (for example to assemble the two tubes of the adhesive) and a dyeing treatment.
Selon une méthode préférée, le traitement aqueux pour faire disparaître le fil hydrosoluble est combiné au traitement de teinture, ce qui ne fait qu'une seule opération. Le traitement de teinture opère aussi le préfixage de l'article. Il est alors suivi du traitement de confection nécessaire pour finir l'article définitif (notamment assembler entre elles les deux tubes de collant pour former la partie slip du collant), la confection utilisant alors du fil teint puisque les ébauches sont déjà teintes.  According to a preferred method, the aqueous treatment for removing the water-soluble yarn is combined with the dyeing treatment, which is a single operation. The dyeing treatment also operates the prefixing of the article. It is then followed by the confection treatment necessary to finish the final article (in particular to assemble the two sticky tubes together to form the panty portion of the pantyhose), the garment then using dyed yarn since the blanks are already dyed.
Selon une autre méthode, le traitement aqueux est un lavage qui permet en même temps de préfixer l'article dimensionnellement. Il est alors suivi du traitement de confection pour former l'article fini, la confection pouvant utiliser du fil écru puisque l'article n'est pas encore teint, et l'article confectionné est ensuite envoyé en teinture.  According to another method, the aqueous treatment is a washing which at the same time makes it possible to prefix the article dimensionally. It is then followed by the garment treatment to form the finished article, the garment may use unbleached thread since the article is not yet dyed, and the made-up article is then sent to dyeing.
L'invention concerne aussi le produit intermédiaire formé par tricotage et avant disparition du fil hydrosoluble, à savoir l'ébauche d'article tricoté tubulaire. Plus précisément, l'invention concerne une ébauche d'article tricoté tubulaire comprenant un départ tricoté sur p premières rangées avec des colonnes sautées suivi de q rangées suivantes tricotées sur toutes les colonnes, à la suite de quoi le tricot est le tricot de base normal, caractérisé en ce lesdites p premières rangées et lesdites q rangées suivantes sont réalisées en un fil d'élasthanne guipé d'un fil hydrosoluble.  The invention also relates to the intermediate product formed by knitting and before disappearance of the water-soluble yarn, namely the blank of tubular knitted article. More specifically, the invention relates to a blank of tubular knitted article comprising a knitted start on first rows with skipped columns followed by the next knitted rows on all the columns, whereupon the knit is the normal basic knit. characterized in that said first rows and said following rows are made of elastane yarn wrapped with a water-soluble yarn.
L'invention concerne enfin le produit final obtenu après disparition du fil hydrosoluble. Plus précisément, l'invention concerne un article tricoté tubulaire comprenant un départ tricoté sur p premières rangées avec des colonnes sautées suivi de q rangées suivantes tricotées sur toutes les colonnes, à la suite de quoi le tricot est le tricot de base normal, caractérisé en ce lesdites p premières rangées et lesdites q rangées suivantes sont réalisées en un fil en élasthanne. On observera que dans le produit final, les premières p + q rangées sont en élasthanne pur, nu, ce qui est très difficile, voire impossible, à obtenir sans le procédé de l'invention. En particulier, on connaît par le document EP 1 956 125 un tricot dont la bordure est réalisée par des rangées à base de fil de polyuréthanne élastique, mais ce fil est entouré de nylon, ce qui fait que la bordure ainsi réalisée n'est pas du tout invisible comme celle de l'invention. The invention finally relates to the final product obtained after the disappearance of the water-soluble yarn. More specifically, the invention relates to a tubular knitted article comprising a knitted top on first rows with skipped columns followed by the next knitted rows on all the columns, after which the knit is the normal basic knit, characterized in that this said first rows and the following rows are made of elastane yarn. It will be observed that in the final product, the first p + q rows are pure elastane, naked, which is very difficult, if not impossible, to obtain without the method of the invention. In particular, it is known from EP 1 956 125 a knit whose edge is made by rows based on elastic polyurethane yarn, but this thread is surrounded by nylon, so that the edge thus produced is not at all invisible like that of the invention.
Avantageusement, l'article est tricoté en jersey sur un métier circulaire, par exemple un métier de 400 aiguilles à quatre chutes (n=400, c=4). Le nombre p de premières rangées à tricotage sur une partie seulement des aiguilles est avantageusement égal à 2 et le nombre q est supérieur ou égal à 1 et de préférence supérieur ou égal à 2. Avantageusement le fil utilisé pour les p premières rangées, un fil d'élasthanne (par exemple de Roica®) guipé d'un fil de PVA (par exemple Solvron®), est tricoté 1 aiguille sur 4 la première rangée, 1 aiguille sur 2 la seconde, et sur toutes les aiguilles dans les q (=2) rangées suivantes de la bordure. Le fil d'élasthanne est avantageusement un fil de titre inférieur à 20 dtex, par exemple 17 dtex, et composé de nombreux filaments, typiquement plus de 20, par exemple 31 , ce qui lui permet de bien accrocher la teinture et donc d'être sensiblement indécelable à l'œil sur la bordure de l'article teint fini.  Advantageously, the article is knitted in jersey on a circular loom, for example a loom of 400 needles with four drops (n = 400, c = 4). The number p of first rows of knitting on only part of the needles is advantageously equal to 2 and the number q is greater than or equal to 1 and preferably greater than or equal to 2. Advantageously the thread used for the first p rows, a thread of elastane (eg Roica®) wrapped with PVA yarn (eg Solvron®) is knitted 1 needle on 4 the first row, 1 needle on 2 the second, and on all the needles in the q ( = 2) next rows of the border. The elastane yarn is advantageously a yarn less than 20 dtex, for example 17 dtex, and composed of many filaments, typically more than 20, for example 31, which allows it to hang the dye well and therefore to be significantly undetectable to the eye on the edge of the finished dyed article.
D'autres particularités et avantages de l'invention ressortiront à la lecture de la description faite ci-après, donnée à titre indicatif mais non limitatif, en référence au dessin annexé sur lequel la figure unique 1 représente de manière traditionnelle le schéma de tricotage d'une jambe de collant.  Other features and advantages of the invention will emerge on reading the description given below, given by way of indication but not limitation, with reference to the accompanying drawing in which the single FIG. 1 is a traditional representation of the knitting a sticky leg.
La jambe de collant de l'invention peut être tricotée en utilisant un métier de marque Lonati type 404MJ (4 chutes).  The pantyhose leg of the invention can be knitted using a 404MJ Lonati type loom (4 falls).
La figure 1 montre une jambe tubulaire 10 en plusieurs sections successives : une partie de départ T sur laquelle porte précisément l'invention, une partie de ceinture C, une partie S de slip et de cuisse, une partie J de jambe proprement dite, une partie SM dite « stop mailles » et une partie P de pointe. Le tricotage de toutes les parties hormis la partie de départ T est ce qu'on appelle ici un tricot de base classique ou normal pour ce genre d'article. Il a été ici illustré pour les quatre chutes 1 , 2, 3, 4 dans une maille jersey à base de polyamide 6,6 (PA66) vanisé ou non d'élasthanne (R22). Il pourrait s'agir d'autres fibres, l'invention ne portant pas sur la réalisation du tricot normal. FIG. 1 shows a tubular leg 10 in several successive sections: a starting part T on which the invention specifically bears, a belt portion C, a panty and thigh part S, a leg part J itself, a SM part called "stop meshes" and a part P peak. The knitting of all the parts except the starting part T is what is called here a basic or normal basic knit for this kind of article. he has been illustrated here for the four falls 1, 2, 3, 4 in a jersey knit based on polyamide 6.6 (PA66) vanized or not with elastane (R22). It could be other fibers, the invention does not relate to the realization of normal knitting.
La figure détaille le tricotage de la partie de départ T et montre schématiquement les quatre premières rangées de mailles 1 1 , 12, 13, 14 avant le traitement aqueux (partie droite, stade de l'ébauche de produit) et après le traitement aqueux (partie gauche, stade du produit fini). Selon l'invention, les quatre chutes du métier sont tricotées en un même fil 20 constitué d'un élasthanne 21 de la marque Roica® 17dtex de 31 monofilaments, guipé en simple guipage plat (SGP) d'un fil hydrosoluble 22 de PVA (alcool polyvinylique) de marque SOLVRON®. Un tel fil guipé 20 est beaucoup plus facile à tricoter qu'un fil d'élasthanne nu, très difficile à tricoter. Pour initier le tricotage, il n'est pas facile de tricoter directement sur toutes les aiguilles en simple chute ; on doit tricoter progressivement sur un quart des aiguilles, puis sur la moitié des aiguilles, puis sur toutes les aiguilles. Donc, comme le représente le schéma, le tricotage comprend une première rangée 1 1 tricotée 1 aiguille sur 4 (donc sur 100 aiguille des 400 aiguilles du métier), laissant trois mailles sautées sur trois colonnes adjacentes entre les mailles formées (on a représenté par une croix chaque colonne sautée), puis une seconde rangée 12 tricotée 1 aiguille sur 2 (donc sur 200 aiguilles des 400 aiguilles du métier), puis enfin deux rangées 13, 14 ou plus tricotées sur les 400 aiguilles. Toutes ces rangées 1 1 -14 sont donc en élasthanne guipé de fil hydrosoluble, au niveau de l'ébauche du produit.  The figure details the knitting of the starting part T and schematically shows the first four rows of stitches 1 1, 12, 13, 14 before the aqueous treatment (right part, stage of the product blank) and after the aqueous treatment ( left side, stage of the finished product). According to the invention, the four falls of the loom are knitted in the same thread 20 made of a 21-spandex Roica® 17dtex elastane of 31 monofilaments, gimped in simple flat gimp (SGP) of a water-soluble yarn 22 of PVA ( polyvinyl alcohol) SOLVRON® brand. Such wrapped yarn 20 is much easier to knit than a bare elastane yarn, very difficult to knit. To initiate knitting, it is not easy to knit directly on all needles in single fall; you must knit gradually on a quarter of the needles, then on half of the needles, then on all the needles. Therefore, as shown in the diagram, the knitting comprises a first row 1 1 knitted 1 needle out of 4 (so on 100 needle of the 400 needles of the trade), leaving three meshes jumped on three adjacent columns between the meshes formed (it is represented by one cross each skipped column), then a second row 12 knitted 1 needle out of 2 (so on 200 needles of the 400 needles of the trade), then finally two rows 13, 14 or more knitted on the 400 needles. All these rows 1 1 -14 are elasthanne guiped water-soluble yarn, at the level of the blank of the product.
Une fois qu'un traitement aqueux convenable, de préférence à chaud, est pratiqué, le fil hydrosoluble 22 de guipage est dissous dans l'eau et s'élimine, laissant à nu l'élasthanne 21 , de sorte qu'on obtient les mailles représentée sur la partie gauche de la figure, où les premières rangées de mailles sont en élasthanne nu, d'abord 1 aiguille sur 4, puis 1 aiguille sur 2, puis sur toute les aiguilles. Ces rangées 1 1 -14 d'élasthanne nu s'étirent facilement, même pour les deux premières rangées qui ne sont pas tricotées sur toutes les aiguilles, du fait que l'élasthanne est pur et hautement élastique. Ces premières rangées, quatre rangées ici, à peine visibles à l'œil nu, ne causent aucune gêne au porter et permettent ensuite de continuer le tricotage normal. La ceinture C peut donc être tricotée en simple épaisseur, comme le reste du collant. Once a suitable aqueous treatment, preferably hot, is practiced, the water soluble yarn 22 is dissolved in the water and is eliminated, leaving bare the elastane 21, so that the mesh is obtained. shown on the left side of the figure, where the first rows of stitches are made of bare spandex, first 1 needle out of 4, then 1 needle out of 2, then on all the needles. These rows 1 1 -14 bare elastane stretch easily, even for the first two rows that are not knitted on all needles, the Elastane is pure and highly elastic. These first rows, four rows here, barely visible to the naked eye, do not cause any discomfort to wear and then allow to continue the normal knitting. The belt C can be knitted in single thickness, like the rest of the tights.

Claims

REVENDICATIONS
1 ) Procédé de fabrication d'un article tricoté tubulaire (10) selon lequel on tricote l'article sur un métier circulaire doté d'un nombre n d'aiguilles et d'un nombre c de chutes, le tricot étant au départ tricoté sur un nombre p de premières rangées sur seulement certaines des n aiguilles avant d'être tricoté sur l'ensemble des aiguilles sur un nombre q de rangées suivantes, à la suite de quoi le tricot de base est tricoté normalement, caractérisé en ce qu'on tricote sur lesdites p premières rangées (1 1 , 12) et sur lesdites q rangées suivantes (13, 14) un fil en élasthanne (21 ) guipé d'un fil hydrosoluble (22), et en ce qu'on soumet ensuite, une fois l'article tricoté, l'article à un traitement aqueux de manière à faire disparaître le fil hydrosoluble de guipage (22), moyennant quoi on conserve sur le bord de l'article p+q rangées (1 1 - 14) d'élasthanne tricoté qui précèdent le tricot de base normal. 1) A method of manufacturing a tubular knitted article (10) according to which the article is knit on a circular loom having a number n of needles and a number c of falls, the knitting being initially knitted on a number p of first rows on only some of the n needles before being knitted on all the needles on a number q of subsequent rows, whereupon the base knit is knitted normally, characterized in that knits on said first rows (11, 12) and on said following rows (13, 14) an elastane yarn (21) wrapped with a water-soluble yarn (22), and then subjecting a Once the article has been knitted, the article is treated with an aqueous treatment so as to remove the water-soluble yarn (22), whereby the edges of the article p + q rows (1 1 - 14) are preserved. knitted elastane that precede the normal basic knit.
2) Procédé selon la revendication 1 , caractérisé en ce que le traitement aqueux pour faire disparaître le fil hydrosoluble (22) est combiné à un traitement de teinture. 2) Process according to claim 1, characterized in that the aqueous treatment to remove the water-soluble yarn (22) is combined with a dyeing treatment.
3) Procédé selon la revendication 2, caractérisé en ce que le traitement de teinture est suivi d'un traitement de confection utilisant du fil teint. 3) Method according to claim 2, characterized in that the dyeing treatment is followed by a garment treatment using dyed yarn.
4) Procédé selon la revendication 1 , caractérisé en ce que le traitement aqueux pour faire disparaître le fil hydrosoluble(22) est un lavage. 4) Process according to claim 1, characterized in that the aqueous treatment to remove the water soluble lead (22) is a wash.
5) Procédé selon la revendication 4, caractérisé en ce que le traitement aqueux est suivi d'un traitement de confection utilisant du fil écru et l'article confectionné est ensuite envoyé en teinture. 5) Process according to claim 4, characterized in that the aqueous treatment is followed by a confection treatment using unbleached yarn and the prepared article is then sent to dyeing.
6) Ébauche d'article tricoté tubulaire (10) comprenant un départ tricoté (T) sur p premières rangées avec des colonnes sautées suivies de q rangées suivantes tricotées sur toutes les colonnes, à la suite de quoi le tricot est le tricot de base normal, caractérisé en ce lesdites p premières rangées (1 1 , 12) et lesdites q rangées suivantes (13, 14) sont réalisées en un fil en élasthanne (21 ) guipé d'un fil hydrosoluble (22). 6) Tubular knit article blank (10) comprising a knit (T) start on p first rows with skipped columns followed by q following rows knitted on all the columns, whereupon the knit is the normal basic knit, characterized in that said p first rows (1 1, 12) and said following q rows (13, 14) are made in a thread elastane (21) covered with a water-soluble yarn (22).
7) Article tricoté tubulaire (10) comprenant un départ tricoté (T) sur p premières rangées avec des colonnes sautées suivies de q rangées suivantes tricotées sur toutes les colonnes, à la suite de quoi le tricot est le tricot normal, caractérisé en ce lesdites p premières rangées (1 1 , 12) et lesdites q rangées suivantes (13, 14) sont réalisées en un fil en élasthanne (21 ). 7) A tubular knitted article (10) comprising a knitted start (T) on first rows with jumped columns followed by q subsequent rows knitted on all the columns, whereupon the knit is the normal knit, characterized in that said p first rows (1 1, 12) and said following q rows (13, 14) are made of elastane yarn (21).
8) Article selon la revendication 7, caractérisé en ce que le fil d'élasthanne (21 ) est d'un titre inférieur à 20 dtex. 8) Article according to claim 7, characterized in that the spandex yarn (21) is of a title less than 20 dtex.
9) Article selon la revendication 7 ou 8, caractérisé en ce que le fil d'élasthanne (21 ) est composé de plus de 20 filaments. 9) Article according to claim 7 or 8, characterized in that the elastane yarn (21) is composed of more than 20 filaments.
10) Article selon l'une quelconque des revendications 7 à 9, caractérisé en ce que la première rangée (1 1 ) est tricotée avec une maille tricotée et trois colonnes sautées, et la deuxième rangée (12) est tricotée avec une maille tricotée et une colonne sautée. 10) Article according to any one of claims 7 to 9, characterized in that the first row (1 1) is knitted with a knitted mesh and three leapt columns, and the second row (12) is knitted with a knitted mesh and a skipped column.
EP13785542.5A 2012-10-16 2013-10-10 Blank and tubular knit article with single thickness stay-up hem, and method of making this article Active EP2909368B1 (en)

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FR1259871A FR2996860B1 (en) 2012-10-16 2012-10-16 DRAWING AND TUBULAR KNITTED ARTICLE WITH SINGLE THICK MAINTAINING AND METHOD OF MANUFACTURING SUCH ARTICLE
PCT/FR2013/052413 WO2014060682A1 (en) 2012-10-16 2013-10-10 Blank and tubular knitted item having a retaining edge of a single thickness and method for producing such an item

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CA2883829C (en) 2020-07-21
US20150275407A1 (en) 2015-10-01
CN104736751A (en) 2015-06-24
CN104736751B (en) 2016-12-14
MX2015003836A (en) 2015-07-17
US9976235B2 (en) 2018-05-22
FR2996860A1 (en) 2014-04-18
EP2909368B1 (en) 2019-09-11
CA2883829A1 (en) 2014-04-24
WO2014060682A1 (en) 2014-04-24

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