EP3699340B1 - Two-sided elastic fabric with gripping properties - Google Patents

Description

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The invention relates to the field of elastic fabrics, endowed with gripping properties. Such fabrics are intended in particular to be used in the manufacture of underwear, clothing, or even orthopedic or other compression articles.

PRIOR STATE OF THE ART

It is known, more particularly in the field of orthopedic clothing, to use warp and weft fabrics, elastic in the warp direction, and one of the faces of which is provided with visible loops, intended to constitute the female element of the chain. a hook closure system, of the type well known under the brand Velcro ^® .

In order to produce such articles, it is known, for example from the document EP 0 670 383 , to use in warp a combination of highly elastic threads, of the wrapped thread type, consisting of a core of elastodiene, preferably of elastofiber, such as elastane, and a sheathing of synthetic thread. Furthermore, in order to constitute the face constituting the female element with gripping properties, and therefore typically consisting of visible loops, a synthetic yarn with a thread count typically comprised between 10 and 25 dtex is used.

Experience shows that while the fabrics thus produced are certainly satisfactory in terms of the efficiency of the grip properties and elasticity, they nevertheless have a certain number of drawbacks. Thus, the apparent projecting loops intended to receive the hooks of the male element of the self-gripping system, have a certain rigidity due to the title to the strand of the threads in operation necessary for durability, so that their height with respect to the The fabric itself is not insignificant, typically of the order of 5 millimeters or even more, which gives the article a relatively large thickness on the one hand, and on the other hand, generates a feel that is considered unpleasant.

In addition, because of this relatively large height of the loops, they prove to be more vulnerable to mechanical attack. Thus, it can happen, during operations or finishing treatments, such as dyeing or rolling, or when the male element is hooked onto the gripping structure, and in general when a relatively strong pressure is exerted on the face of the fabric provided with said loops, that the latter lie down in a random and irreversible manner, first of all affecting the effectiveness of the gripping nature of the structure, and in addition, affecting the aesthetic appearance of this face, this phenomenon increasing as the closure system is used. These consequences are all the more damaging as they concern the visible face of the fabric.

The present invention aims to overcome these drawbacks. It offers an elastic fabric in the warp direction, one of whose faces constitutes the female element of a self-gripping system, which has a very reduced thickness, typically between 1.8 and 2 millimeters, in other words which develops qualities of smoothness, flexibility, regularity of appearance and resistance to attacks resulting from the hooks of the male part of a self-gripping structure, very clearly improved compared to the fabrics of the prior art, and of which corollary the other face as well as the edges, intended to come into contact with the user's skin, have remarkable qualities of comfort and softness.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

• des fils élastiques travaillant selon une armure taffetas ;
• des fils synthétiques texturés par fausse torsion sur l'endroit, destinés à constituer l'élément femelle du système d'accroché auto-agrippant, travaillant selon une armure unie alternant avec des flottés en surface, et possédant un titre unitaire au brin compris entre 10 et 25 dtex, présentant un taux de retrait à l'air chaud d'au moins 5% (selon la norme DIN EN 14621); un taux de contraction de frisure supérieur à 35%, un taux de module de frisure supérieur à 20% et un taux de stabilité de frisure supérieur à 65 % (selon norme DIN EN ISO 53840-T1), de telle sorte qu'après traitement de finition (sous une température typiquement comprise entre 100 et 160 °C), lesdits fils sont fortement rétractés et plaqués sur les fils élastiques travaillant en taffetas et maintenus par leur tension au centre du tissu ;
• des fils synthétiques multifilamentaires sur l'envers, d'un titre unitaire au brin compris entre 0,3 et 1,7 dtex, travaillant selon une armure cannelée, alternant des flottés de grande longueur sur la face envers et des zones courtes de liage sur l'endroit, et destinés à assurer le confort et la douceur au toucher de la face envers du tissu, en l'espèce typiquement destinée à venir en contact avec la peau de l'utilisateur ;
• des fils faisant office de fils de liage, exclusivement constitués de fils synthétiques thermocollants, dont le point de fusion est compris entre 80 et 160 °C, travaillant selon une armure unie, assurant tout à la fois après traitement de finition, le maintien des fils élastiques dans la partie centrale du tissu, le blocage des fils d'endroit, qui constituent l'élément femelle agrippant, et le blocage des fils d'envers.

Thus the invention relates to a two-sided fabric with elastic properties in its warp direction, formed by the interweaving of warp yarns and weft yarns, the warp yarns comprising at least four types of yarn:

• elastic threads working in a taffeta weave;
• synthetic threads textured by false twist on the face, intended to constitute the female element of the hook-and-loop system, working in a plain weave alternating with floats on the surface, and having a unit count per strand of between 10 and 25 dtex, exhibiting a hot air shrinkage rate of at least 5% (according to DIN EN 14621); a crimp contraction rate greater than 35%, a crimp modulus rate greater than 20% and a crimp stability rate greater than 65% (according to DIN EN ISO 53840-T1), so that after treatment finishing (at a temperature typically between 100 and 160 ° C), said yarns are strongly retracted and pressed onto the elastic yarns working in taffeta and held by their tension in the center of the fabric;
• synthetic multifilament threads on the reverse side, with a unit count per strand between 0.3 and 1.7 dtex, working in a fluted weave, alternating long floats on the reverse side and short areas of binding on the place, and intended to ensure the comfort and softness to the touch of the back side of the fabric, in this case typically intended to come into contact with the skin of the user;
• yarns acting as binding yarns, exclusively made up of thermo-adhesive synthetic yarns, the melting point of which is between 80 and 160 ° C, working in a plain weave, ensuring both after finishing treatment, the retention of the yarns elastic in the central part of the fabric, the blocking of the face threads, which constitute the gripping element, and the blocking of the reverse threads.

• la contraction de frisure représentant le rapport de longueur entre une section de fil soumise à une force de 2 cN/tex et la longueur de cette même section de fil sans tension,
• le module de frisure qui est la capacité d'allongement du fil texturé dans la plage d'élasticité de la frisure,
• la stabilité de frisure qui est l'aptitude du fil texturé à conserver sa frisure après un étirement important (10 cN/tex pendant 10 min).

False twist texturing is a well-known technology, which can be defined as a transformation of flat synthetic yarns consisting in giving them a permanent "crimp" by twisting / untwisting, which increases the apparent volume giving them an effect. spring and high elasticity. This texturing is measured according to a standard comprising three parameters characterizing the crimp which can be defined simply by:

• the crimp contraction representing the length ratio between a section of yarn subjected to a force of 2 cN / tex and the length of this same section of yarn without tension,
• the crimp modulus which is the elongation capacity of the textured yarn in the elasticity range of the crimp,
• crimp stability which is the ability of the textured yarn to retain its crimp after significant stretching (10 cN / tex for 10 min).

The weft being constituted by a synthetic thread.

In other words, the invention consists first of all in selecting a series of ground wires, on the face, of particular characteristics, in this case having a hot air shrinkage of at least 5%. and a high contraction power (typically greater than 35%), these properties causing a very strong retraction of these threads during the finishing operation (100 to 160 ° C), and making it possible to obtain an extremely flat, compact surface and regular constituting the female element of a self-gripping system.

In addition, the implementation of thermobonding son acting as binding son, allows to press said series of ground son, respectively back and front, against the internal face of the article, resulting in a significant reduction of the thickness of said article typically between 1.8 and 2 millimeters.

In doing so, an elastic fabric is obtained, the flat, compact and regular face of which constitutes the female element of a self-gripping system, exhibiting improved qualities of flexibility, appearance and durability, and of which the reverse face , also flat, is uniform and soft to the touch in order to ensure the comfort of the user, a fabric whose thickness is particularly reduced, and whose aesthetics are not affected by the repeated use of the gripping function of said tissue.

According to the invention, the elastic threads are formed by wrapped threads, the elastane core of which has a count of 1240 dtex, is covered with a double covering of 23-strand 2/78 dtex textured polyamide threads.

• les fils de fond constitutifs des fils d'endroit, sont constitués de fils de polyamide texturé de titre 220 dtex 10 brins,
• les fils de fond constitutifs des fils d'envers sont constitués de fils de polyamide texturé de titre 2/78 dtex 68 brins.

Still according to the invention:

• the ground yarns constituting the face yarns consist of textured polyamide yarns of 220 dtex 10 strands,
• the background yarns constituting the reverse yarns consist of textured polyamide yarns with a title of 2/78 dtex 68 strands.

According to the invention, the yarns acting as binding consist of a heat-bonding copolymer, with a count of between 80 and 180 dtex, and with a melting point of between 80 ° C and 160 ° C.

This copolymer can consist of a heat-bonding copolyamide, with a titer of around 167 dtex, and a melting point of 110 ° C. It could also consist of a copolyester of the same strength and with a melting point of 145 ° C.

The weft threads are advantageously made of textured polyamide threads, with a count of around 4/78 dtex 23 strands and the reduction in the finished fabric being 64 strokes per inch.

According to an advantageous characteristic, a part of the reverse yarns is capable of adopting at the edge of the fabric, a 2 fluted weave, tending to improve the resistance of the edges of said fabric while preserving comfort.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

• La figure 1 illustre schématiquement le travail et le positionnement des fils de chaîne entrant dans la réalisation de tissus conformes à l'invention.
• La figure 2 est une vue schématique en perspective de la structure du tissu de la figure 1.
• La figure 3 est la représentation schématique conventionnelle du rapport d'armure correspondant à la structure décrite en relation avec les figures 1 et 2.
• La figure 4 illustre schématiquement la note d'enfilage au métier à tisser pour la réalisation du tissu des figures 1 à 3.

The manner in which the invention can be implemented, and the advantages which result therefrom, will emerge more clearly from the exemplary embodiment which follows, given by way of indication and without limitation in support of the appended figures.

• The figure 1 schematically illustrates the work and the positioning of the warp threads used in the production of fabrics according to the invention.
• The figure 2 is a schematic perspective view of the tissue structure of the figure 1 .
• The figure 3 is the conventional schematic representation of the weave ratio corresponding to the structure described in relation to the figures 1 and 2 .
• The figure 4 schematically illustrates the note for threading the loom for making the fabric of figures 1 to 3 .

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The following description is an exemplary embodiment of the invention, which is in no way intended to be limiting. In this case, it corresponds to a fabric obtained using a loom equipped with a comb having 8.5 teeth per centimeter.

• des fils élastiques (A) de type fils guipés constitués d'une âme élasthanne 1240 décitex recouverte d'une double couverture de polyamide texturé 2/78 décitex 23 brins ;
• des fils d'endroit (B) chacun constitué d'un fil de polyamide texturé de titre 220 décitex 10 brins ; ces fils présentent (selon la norme DIN EN 14621) un taux de retrait à l'air chaud de 5% au minimum, ainsi que (selon DIN EN ISO 53 840-T1) un taux de contraction de frisure supérieur à 35%, un taux de module de frisure supérieur à 20% et un taux de stabilité de frisure supérieur à 65% ;
• des fils d'envers (C), chacun constitué d'un fil de polyamide texturé de titre 2/78 décitex 68 brins ;
• des fils de liage (D), chacun constitué d'un fil copolyamide thermocollant d'environ 167 décitex et d'un point de fusion de 110°C.

The yarn warp of this fabric consists of the following types of yarn:

• elastic yarns (A) of the covered yarn type consisting of a 1240 decitex elastane core covered with a double covering of 23-ply 2/78 decitex textured polyamide;
• face yarns (B) each consisting of a textured polyamide yarn of 220 decitex count 10 strands; these threads exhibit (according to DIN EN 14621) a minimum hot air shrinkage rate of 5%, as well as (according to DIN EN ISO 53 840-T1) a crimp shrinkage rate greater than 35%, a crimp modulus rate greater than 20% and a crimp stability rate greater than 65%;
• reverse yarns (C), each consisting of a 2/78 decitex 68 strand textured polyamide yarn;
• binding yarns (D), each consisting of a heat-bonding copolyamide yarn of about 167 decitex and a melting point of 110 ° C.

The weft (T) is for its part made up of a 23-ply 4/78 decitex textured polyamide yarn and the reduction in the finished fabric is 64 strokes per inch.

The weaving is carried out in accordance with figures 1 to 4 , which show that the elastic threads (A) work according to a taffeta weave, while the face threads (B) work according to a weave alternating float zones of 7 strokes and taffeta zones on 5 strokes, the threads of 'reverse (C) work in a 6/2 fluted weave, finally the son ensuring the binding (D) work in a plain weave.

By proceeding in this way, we obtain an elastic fabric of very low thickness (~ 1.8mm), the face of which is flat, compact and regular and allows this face of the fabric to constitute the female element of a system of hook-and-loop closure, and developing a very improved flexibility, appearance and durability compared to the elastic self-gripping fabrics of the prior art, and whose back face uniform and soft to the touch, ensures remarkable comfort, quite appreciable when it is intended, which is most often the case, to be in contact with the skin of the user.

The elastic gripping fabric described above can be dyed by the various polyamide dyeing processes and the heat-fixing temperature should be around 120 ° C.

According to an advantageous characteristic, a part (C1) of the reverse yarns adopts at the edge of the fabric, a 2 fluted weave, tending to improve the resistance of the edges of said fabric while preserving comfort.

It is also important to note that the nature of the threads used as well as the design of the elastic gripping fabric of the invention allow it to be cut in all directions with the different techniques, including ultrasound and laser, as well as its welding by process. ultrasound or high frequency or its bonding, which is a definite advantage for all manufacturing operations.

In addition, its very low thickness (typically close to 1.8mm) allows the use of such a fabric for articles where until now, the relative thickness and the lack of flexibility of the existing systems did not allow it; such as, for example, the making of underwear, the making of finger orthoses, etc., and in general the uses which simultaneously require the qualities presented by this fabric.

Claims (8)

1. A double-sided fabric having elastic properties in its warp direction and provided with gripping properties, formed by the weaving of warp yarns and of weft yarns, and wherein the warp yarns are of four different types worked in different weaves with respect to the weft yarns, respectively:

   - elastic yarns (A) worked in a taffeta weave;

   - core yarns (B), formed of synthetic yarns texturized by false twist on the face, intended to form the female element of the hook-and-loop structure, worked in a plain weave alternating with surface floats and having a linear strand density in the range from 10 to 25 dtex, in addition to a hot air shrinkage rate according to the DIN EN 14621 standard of at least 5%; a crimp contraction greater than 35%, said crimp contraction representing the length ratio between a yarn section submitted to a 2 cN/tex force and the length of this same yarn section with no tension, a crimp modulus greater than 20%, said crimp modulus being the elongation capacity of the texturized yarns in the crimp elasticity range, and a crimp stability according to the DIN EN ISO 53840-T1 standard greater than 65%,

   - core yarns (C) on the back side, formed of multifilament synthetic yarns on the back, having a linear strand density in the range from 0.3 to 1.7 dtex worked in a rep weave, alternating floats of great length on the back side and short binding areas on the face side, and intended to ensure the comfort and the soft hand of this side of the fabric,

   - yarns used as binding yarns, exclusively formed of thermo-adhesive synthetic yarns, having a melting point in the range from 80°C to 160°C, worked in a plain weave, ensuring the maintaining of the extensible yarns in the central portion of the fabric and ensuring, after the finishing treatment, the blocking of the core yarns (B) (face yarns), forming the female element of the hook-and-loop system, and the blocking of the core yarns (C) (back yarns).
2. The double-sided fabric having elastic properties in its warp direction and provided with gripping properties according to claim 1, characterized in that the elastic yarns (A) are formed by covered yarns having a 1240-decitex elastane core covered with a double cover of 2/78 decitex 23 strand texturized polyamide yarns.
3. The double-sided fabric having elastic properties in its warp direction and provided with gripping properties according to any of claims 1 and 2, characterized in that the face core yarns (B) are formed by 220 dtex 10 strand texturized polyamide yarns having a hot air shrinkage is in the order of 8%.
4. The double-sided fabric having elastic properties in its warp direction and provided with gripping properties according to any of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the back core yarns (C) are formed by 2/78 dtex 68 strand texturized polyamide yarns.
5. The double-sided fabric having elastic properties in its warp direction and provided with gripping properties according to any of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the yarns used for binding (D) are formed of a thermo-adhesive copolymer, having a linear density in the range from 80 to 180 dtex and a melting point in the range from 80°C to 160°C.
6. The double-sided fabric having elastic properties in its warp direction and provided with gripping properties according to claim 5, characterized in that thermo-adhesive copolymer is selected from the group comprising thermo-adhesive copolyamide having a linear density close to 167 dtex and a melting point of 110°C and thermo-adhesive copolyester, having a linear density close to 167 dtex and a melting point of 145°C.
7. The double-sided fabric having elastic properties in its warp direction and provided with gripping properties according to any of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the weft yarns (T) are formed by 4/78 dtex 23 strand texturized polyamide yarns, the take-up of the finished fabric being 64 picks per inch.
8. The double-sided fabric having elastic properties in its warp direction and provided with gripping properties according to any of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that part (C1) of the core yarns (back yarns) takes at the selvedge of the fabric a rep weave with a weave repeat of 2, tending to improve the resistance of the edges of said fabric while preserving the comfort.

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