WO2008116987A2 - Item of lingerie made from a fabric laminate including a first fabric thickness attached to a second three-dimensional thickness of material with two fabric faces - Google Patents

Item of lingerie made from a fabric laminate including a first fabric thickness attached to a second three-dimensional thickness of material with two fabric faces Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2008116987A2
WO2008116987A2 PCT/FR2008/000191 FR2008000191W WO2008116987A2 WO 2008116987 A2 WO2008116987 A2 WO 2008116987A2 FR 2008000191 W FR2008000191 W FR 2008000191W WO 2008116987 A2 WO2008116987 A2 WO 2008116987A2
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
thickness
fabric
textile
outer face
inner face
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/FR2008/000191
Other languages
French (fr)
Other versions
WO2008116987A3 (en
Inventor
Nadège Réjane Mireille LOGRE
Philippe Raymond Regert
Original Assignee
Dbapparel Operations
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Dbapparel Operations filed Critical Dbapparel Operations
Publication of WO2008116987A2 publication Critical patent/WO2008116987A2/en
Publication of WO2008116987A3 publication Critical patent/WO2008116987A3/en

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41C—CORSETS; BRASSIERES
    • A41C5/00—Machines, appliances, or methods for manufacturing corsets or brassieres
    • A41C5/005—Machines, appliances, or methods for manufacturing corsets or brassieres by moulding
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B5/00—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts
    • B32B5/22—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by the presence of two or more layers which are next to each other and are fibrous, filamentary, formed of particles or foamed
    • B32B5/24—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by the presence of two or more layers which are next to each other and are fibrous, filamentary, formed of particles or foamed one layer being a fibrous or filamentary layer
    • B32B5/26—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by the presence of two or more layers which are next to each other and are fibrous, filamentary, formed of particles or foamed one layer being a fibrous or filamentary layer another layer next to it also being fibrous or filamentary
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/246—Upper torso garments, e.g. sweaters, shirts, leotards
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
    • B29C51/00—Shaping by thermoforming, i.e. shaping sheets or sheet like preforms after heating, e.g. shaping sheets in matched moulds or by deep-drawing; Apparatus therefor
    • B29C51/002—Shaping by thermoforming, i.e. shaping sheets or sheet like preforms after heating, e.g. shaping sheets in matched moulds or by deep-drawing; Apparatus therefor characterised by the choice of material
    • B29C51/004—Textile or other fibrous material made from plastics fibres
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29L—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBCLASS B29C, RELATING TO PARTICULAR ARTICLES
    • B29L2031/00—Other particular articles
    • B29L2031/48—Wearing apparel
    • B29L2031/4871—Underwear
    • B29L2031/4885—Brassieres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/04—Heat-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/041—Heat-responsive characteristics thermoplastic; thermosetting
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/02—Cross-sectional features
    • D10B2403/021—Lofty fabric with equidistantly spaced front and back plies, e.g. spacer fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
    • D10B2501/02—Underwear

Definitions

  • Lingerie article made of a textile laminate having a first textile thickness attached to a second three-dimensional thickness of two-faced textile material
  • the present invention relates to a lingerie article made in a textile laminate comprising:
  • a first thickness of textile having an inner face and an outer face
  • a second textile thickness composed of two layers of textile assembled by knitting or weaving, the two layers being constituted by different threads, the second thickness having an inner face and an outer face, the inner face of the first thickness being attached to the inner face of the second thickness.
  • the bonding action can be done cold or hot.
  • Such a textile laminate can be used for making textile articles and in particular lingerie articles, in particular bra.
  • WO 03/033796 discloses lingerie articles incorporating a three-dimensional thickness ("spacer”), but this is simply sandwiched between outer layers and such a thickness is not visible from outside the article and does not need to be dyed. Also known from US 2004/0097151 a "spacer" which can be used to constitute alone a bra cup. So that the outer face can be decorative, it is expected to knit with special threads so as to obtain patterns. These two documents do not relate to a laminate laminate of the aforementioned type incorporated directly into a lingerie article to form the material forming the entire thickness of the article.
  • Articles, and more particularly bra, according to the invention are thus obtained by thermoforming the cups in a blank made directly and exclusively in said laminate, cutting the product obtained, then adding the necessary elements to complete the bra (suspenders, fasteners).
  • the second bilayer thickness is advantageously constituted by a three-dimensional, non-delaminable thick textile, commonly known in the textile industry 3 D or "spacer", in which two textile layers (which may be two independent fabrics) are joined by a monofilament or a multifilament knitted which maintains between them a certain distance contributing to give the product a certain lightness, qualities of elasticity, and the possibility of air circulation between the two layers.
  • the textile laminate is resistant to the various treatments to which it may be subjected, whether in the context of the manufacture of a lingerie article (in particular the thermoforming treatment of the cups) or in the subsequent context of the use of the article (including repeated washings).
  • lingerie articles made according to this principle sometimes have defects in appearance after some of the treatments, especially after thermoforming caps. These defects in appearance are essentially folds or wrinkles appearing on the surface of the product, especially on the bilayer thickness side. Surprisingly, these defects are more marked on black products than on pearlescent products. Other defects have also been noted to the touch (brittle texture) and a lack of thickness at the breast point of the cups has sometimes been found on all colors.
  • the object of the invention is to overcome the problem mentioned above and to obtain a lingerie article made in a textile laminate of the type defined above which is moldable without revealing appearance defects even if the laminate is of dark color, at least on the outer face of the second thickness.
  • the invention achieves its goal by virtue of a lingerie article made of a textile laminate comprising: a first textile thickness having an inner face and an outer face, and a second textile thickness composed of two layers of textile assembled by knitting or weaving, the two layers being constituted by different threads, the second thickness having an inner face and an outer face, the inner face of the first thickness being attached to the inner face of the second thickness, the outer face of the second thickness being visible on the article and being of a color requiring dyeing, characterized in that the second thickness is not dyed piece in said color, but its outer face is made in a wire which is of said color.
  • the inner face of the second thickness is not dyed, that is to say that the face remains a textile in ecru thread.
  • the second thickness is indeed commonly carried out by specialized manufacturers in unbleached yarn for each of its layers. It is therefore necessary to obtain a color by dyeing to give the final product in which this second thickness will be used the desired color, whether it is dark or even clear.
  • the practice which hitherto prevailed on the person skilled in the art was to dye this second thickness in the said color which must be that of the final product. In other words, it is the entirety of the second thickness that underwent the dyeing operation.
  • the Applicant has discovered that if one abstains from subjecting the second bilayer thickness to a piece dyeing in the chosen color, and that one directly attaches its untreated inner layer to the inner layer of the first thickness, holding laminate obtained is much better and the laminate may in particular allow the formation of thermoformed bra cups, without appearance of wrinkles or wrinkles.
  • the absence of piece dyeing is compensated, visually, by the fact that at the beginning of manufacture, a yarn in the desired color is used to make the visible outer face of the second thickness, whereas the inner face which has not been dyed is laminated to the first thickness and is therefore invisible.
  • This wire of the desired color may be a dyed yarn (that is to say obtained by extrusion of a colored polymer) or a yarn dyed in a conventional manner using a dyeing treatment. In all cases, it improves the softness and strength of the final product, for example the bra cup.
  • the use of the mass-dyed yarn is advantageous in that it further improves the softness and resilience of the product obtained, and that of the conventional dyed yarn is advantageous by the variety of colors available.
  • the Applicant believes that the dyeing treatments in part, especially dark dyeing, cause for the "spacer" that is subject to a degradation of its qualities of flexibility and elasticity, because relatively high temperatures to which it is subjected during the dyeing operation generally carried out in a hot bath that lasts long enough (the longer the shade is dark). This degradation can be more particularly sensitive on the monofilament or son binding between them the two layers of the "spacer". By refraining from such treatment, the invention allows the "spacer" to retain all its intrinsic properties not degraded. In addition, the Applicant has also found that the room dyeing also degrades the adhesion qualities of the second thickness to the first thickness, with respect to the adhesion obtained by laminating a remaining face of raw wire to the first thickness.
  • the invention may further exhibit one or more of the following additional features: the outer face of the first thickness is of the same color as the outer face of the second thickness.
  • the second thickness is made by two canvases joined by a monofilament or multifilament. the two inner faces are laminated to one another.
  • the laminate has been thermoformed in a suitable mold.
  • the laminate is the main part of a bra, including a one-piece bra whose entirety, apart from the fasteners and straps, is constituted by said laminate which has been thermoformed at the cups.
  • the invention provides very clear advantages in the case of products made in dark colors such as black, for which piece dye deteriorated the material and disrupted the bonding performance, it also applies advantageously to light colors in particular. improving the bonding of the second thickness and thus preventing or reducing the appearance of wrinkles after thermoforming and especially after washing. Moreover, any global dyeing treatment must degrade the performance of the textile: this is very important in the case of dark colors, but even in the case of light colors where the treatment is shorter than for dark colors, degradation, certainly less marked, nevertheless exists. Using, in accordance with the invention, dyed yarn (mass or conventional), we keep an undyed face which has not been damaged.
  • the laminate 1 comprises a first fabric thickness 10 having an inner face 11 and an outer face 12, and a second textile thickness 20 composed of two layers 23 and 24 of textile joined by knitting a monofilament 25.
  • the second thickness 20a an inner face 21 and an outer face 22; the inner face 11 of the first thickness 10 is laminated to the inner face 21 of the second thickness 20 by dots 26 regularly distributed.
  • the two layers 23 and 24 are constituted by different threads, it is possible to manufacture the second thickness 20 using a natural or raw yarn to produce the layer 23 intended laminating with the first thickness 10 and a dyed yarn, for example black, to achieve the layer 24 which is the apparent layer of the second thickness.
  • the second thickness 20 is not dyed in piece and thus preserves intact all its properties related to its manufacture, especially as regards its flexibility and elasticity.
  • the qualities of flexibility and elasticity of the second thickness no altered by an intermediate treatment such as a dye piece, allow it to deform without causing the appearance defects mentioned at the head of this description.
  • the cups also remain soft and at the breast point, the "spacer" always has a thickness.
  • the two visible layers of the finished product namely the layers 10 and 24 can thus advantageously be of the same color, for example black, without the resistance of the second thickness 20 or adhesive laminating 26 being altered by a massive dyeing. which would have been practiced on the second thickness.
  • the second thickness 20 is advantageously a "spacer" made by two layers of fabric 23 and 24 connected by knitting a monofilament 25 of 72/1 decitex.
  • the fabric 23 consists of a polyamide (T) 78/68 decitex ecru and a 44 decitex elastane.
  • the fabric 24 is made of a dyed polyethylene (T) 78/46 dyed and a 44 decitex elastane.
  • the fabrics 23 and 24 are made for example on a double circular loom.
  • the total thickness of the second thickness 20 is between 3 and 4 mm.
  • the adhesive 26 used is advantageously a two-component silicone with a viscosity of 300,000 cP and a hardness of 30 grains A. By way of example, it can be deposited according to a point distribution in weft 65 commonly used by screen printing professionals.
  • the second thickness 20 can also be made as a double-sided textile by different weaving or knitting processes.
  • articles can be made by vanishing when works with a single needle bed, or on a specific interlock base with two needle beds, or three-dimensional knitting techniques.
  • the laminate 1 is advantageously used for the manufacture of a multilayer "spacer" bra, for example according to the principles described in the French patent applications filed under the numbers 0509491 and 0609981. It will also be possible to refer to the document US 2002 / 0106970 for general indications on the manufacture of multilayer bra.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
  • Laminated Bodies (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Decoration Of Textiles (AREA)

Abstract

The invention relates to an item of lingerie made from a fabric laminate, including a first thickness (10) of fabric having an inner face (11) and an outer face (12) and a second fabric thickness (20) formed by two layers of fabric (23, 24) assembled by knitting or weaving, said two layers (23, 24) being made from different yarns. THe second thickness (20) has an inner face (21) and an outer face (22). The inner face (11) of the first thickness (10) is attached to the inner face (21) of the second thickness (20). A dye is needed to produce the colour of the outer face (24) of the second thickness (20). The mass of the second thickness (20) is not dyed with the aforementioned colour. The inner face (21) of the second thickness is not dyed, but the outer face (22) thereof is made from a yarn of said dark colour.

Description

Article de lingerie réalisé dans un stratifié textile comportant une première épaisseur de textile attachée à une deuxième épaisseur tridimensionnelle de matière à deux faces de textiles Lingerie article made of a textile laminate having a first textile thickness attached to a second three-dimensional thickness of two-faced textile material
La présente invention concerne un article de lingerie réalisé dans un stratifié textile comportant :The present invention relates to a lingerie article made in a textile laminate comprising:
-une première épaisseur de textile ayant une face intérieure et une face extérieure,a first thickness of textile having an inner face and an outer face,
-et une deuxième épaisseur textile composée de deux couches de textiles assemblées par tricotage ou tissage, les deux couches étant constituées par des fils différents, la deuxième épaisseur ayant une face intérieure et une face extérieure, la face intérieure de la première épaisseur étant attachée à la face intérieure de la deuxième épaisseur.and a second textile thickness composed of two layers of textile assembled by knitting or weaving, the two layers being constituted by different threads, the second thickness having an inner face and an outer face, the inner face of the first thickness being attached to the inner face of the second thickness.
Pour attacher les deux faces intérieures l'une à l'autre, on recourt généralement à un contrecollage au moyen d'un adhésif déposé par points, par lignes, ou par surfaces, au moyen d'enduction réalisée par exemple par sérigraphie, ou encore par interposition d'un film adhésif entre les deux faces.To attach the two inner faces to one another, it is generally resorted to a bonding by means of an adhesive deposited by points, by lines, or by surfaces, by means of coating made for example by screen printing, or by interposing an adhesive film between the two faces.
L'action de collage peut se faire à froid ou à chaud.The bonding action can be done cold or hot.
Il est aussi possible d'attacher ensemble les faces par d'autres moyens, par exemple par soudure et notamment soudure ultrasonore si les couches de textiles comportent une certaine proportion de fibres thermofusibles.It is also possible to attach the faces together by other means, for example by welding and especially ultrasonic welding if the textile layers comprise a certain proportion of hot melt fibers.
Il est également possible d'attacher ensemble les faces par des moyens mécaniques, par exemple par couture ou tricotage, dès lors que les deux faces sont attachées d'un manière assez intime et homogène pour donner un stratifié d'aspect et de comportement unitaire.It is also possible to attach the faces together by mechanical means, for example by sewing or knitting, since the two faces are attached in a fairly intimate and homogeneous manner to give a laminate appearance and unitary behavior.
Un tel stratifié textile peut être utilisé pour la confection d'articles textiles et en particulier d'articles de lingerie, notamment des soutien-gorge.Such a textile laminate can be used for making textile articles and in particular lingerie articles, in particular bra.
On connaît par WO 03/033796 des articles de lingerie incorporant une épaisseur tridimensionnelle (« spacer »), mais celle-ci est simplement disposée en sandwich entre des couches extérieures et une telle épaisseur n'est pas visible de l'extérieur de l'article et n'a pas besoin d'être teinte. On connaît aussi par US 2004/0097151 un « spacer » qui peut être utilisé pour constituer à lui seul un bonnet de soutien-gorge. Afin que la face extérieure puisse être décorative, il est prévu de la tricoter avec des fils spéciaux de manière à obtenir des motifs. Ces deux documents ne concernent donc pas un stratifié contrecollé du type précité plus haut intégré directement dans un article de lingerie pour en constituer la matière formant intégralement l'épaisseur de l'article.WO 03/033796 discloses lingerie articles incorporating a three-dimensional thickness ("spacer"), but this is simply sandwiched between outer layers and such a thickness is not visible from outside the article and does not need to be dyed. Also known from US 2004/0097151 a "spacer" which can be used to constitute alone a bra cup. So that the outer face can be decorative, it is expected to knit with special threads so as to obtain patterns. These two documents do not relate to a laminate laminate of the aforementioned type incorporated directly into a lingerie article to form the material forming the entire thickness of the article.
Des articles, et plus particulièrement des soutien-gorge, conformes à l'invention sont donc obtenus par thermoformage des bonnets dans une ébauche réalisée directement et exclusivement dans ledit stratifié, découpe du produit obtenu, puis adjonction des éléments nécessaires pour compléter le soutien- gorge (bretelles, attaches de fermeture). On produit ou souhaite produire de la sorte des articles dans plusieurs gammes de couleurs, qui vont des couleurs très claires, comme le blanc ou le nacre, aux couleurs très foncées comme le noir.Articles, and more particularly bra, according to the invention are thus obtained by thermoforming the cups in a blank made directly and exclusively in said laminate, cutting the product obtained, then adding the necessary elements to complete the bra (suspenders, fasteners). One produces or wishes to produce in this way articles in several color ranges, which range from very light colors, such as white or mother-of-pearl, to very dark colors such as black.
La deuxième épaisseur bicouche est avantageusement constituée par un textile épais non délaminable, tridimensionnel, appelé couramment dans la profession textile 3 D ou « spacer », dans lequel deux couches textiles (qui peuvent être deux toiles indépendantes) sont réunies par un monofilament ou un multifilament tricoté qui maintient entre elles une certaines distance contribuant à donner au produit une certaine légèreté, des qualités d'élasticité, et la possibilité d'une circulation d'air entre les deux couches.The second bilayer thickness is advantageously constituted by a three-dimensional, non-delaminable thick textile, commonly known in the textile industry 3 D or "spacer", in which two textile layers (which may be two independent fabrics) are joined by a monofilament or a multifilament knitted which maintains between them a certain distance contributing to give the product a certain lightness, qualities of elasticity, and the possibility of air circulation between the two layers.
Il importe que le stratifié textile résiste bien aux divers traitements auxquels il peut être soumis, que ce soit dans le cadre de la fabrication d'un article de lingerie (notamment au traitement de thermoformage des bonnets) ou dans le cadre ultérieur de l'utilisation de l'article (notamment aux lavages répétés).It is important that the textile laminate is resistant to the various treatments to which it may be subjected, whether in the context of the manufacture of a lingerie article (in particular the thermoforming treatment of the cups) or in the subsequent context of the use of the article (including repeated washings).
La Demanderesse s'est aperçu que des articles de lingerie réalisés selon ce principe présentent parfois des défauts d'aspect après certains des traitements, notamment après le thermoformage des bonnets. Ces défauts d'aspect sont essentiellement des plis ou des rides apparaissant à la surface du produit, notamment du côté de l'épaisseur bicouche. De manière surprenante, ces défauts sont plus marqués sur des produits noirs que sur des produits nacrés. D'autres défauts ont pu aussi être constatés au toucher (texture cassante) et un manque d'épaisseur au niveau de la pointe de sein des bonnets a parfois pu être constaté sur toutes les couleurs.The Applicant has found that lingerie articles made according to this principle sometimes have defects in appearance after some of the treatments, especially after thermoforming caps. These defects in appearance are essentially folds or wrinkles appearing on the surface of the product, especially on the bilayer thickness side. Surprisingly, these defects are more marked on black products than on pearlescent products. Other defects have also been noted to the touch (brittle texture) and a lack of thickness at the breast point of the cups has sometimes been found on all colors.
On connaît par le document US 5 962 349 un tapis de souris constitué par un stratifié alliant une surface textile et une épaisseur de « spacer », mais un tel tapis n'est pas concerné par les problèmes de moulage ou de tenue au lavage des articles de lingerie de l'invention, ni par les problèmes de choix des couleurs des faces intérieures et extérieures de l'article qui ne détériore pas les qualités de confort de l'article ni sa tenue au lavage répété. Le document WO 2005/108054 montre un « spacer » contrecollé à une couche textile pour réaliser un article technique rigide destiné par exemple à constituer une semelle de chaussure ou un coussin de siège. Aucun problème de couleur ne se pose pour ce type d'article.Document US Pat. No. 5,962,349 discloses a mouse pad consisting of a laminate combining a textile surface and a "spacer" thickness, but such a carpet is not concerned with the problems of molding or washing behavior. lingerie articles of the invention, nor by the problems of choice of colors of the inner and outer faces of the article that does not deteriorate the comfort qualities of the article nor its repeated washing performance. The document WO 2005/108054 shows a "spacer" bonded to a textile layer to produce a rigid technical article intended for example to constitute a shoe sole or a seat cushion. No problem of color arises for this type of article.
Le but de l'invention est de remédier au problème évoqué plus haut et d'obtenir un article de lingerie réalisé dans un stratifié textile du type défini ci- dessus qui soit moulable sans laisser apparaître de défauts d'apparence même si le stratifié est de couleur sombre, au moins sur la face extérieur de la deuxième épaisseur.The object of the invention is to overcome the problem mentioned above and to obtain a lingerie article made in a textile laminate of the type defined above which is moldable without revealing appearance defects even if the laminate is of dark color, at least on the outer face of the second thickness.
L'invention atteint son but grâce à un article de lingerie réalisé dans un stratifié textile comportant : une première épaisseur de textile ayant une face intérieure et une face extérieure, et une deuxième épaisseur textile composée de deux couches de textiles assemblées par tricotage ou tissage, les deux couches étant constituées par des fils différents, la deuxième épaisseur ayant une face intérieure et une face extérieure, la face intérieure de la première épaisseur étant attachée à la face intérieure de la deuxième épaisseur, la face extérieure de la deuxième épaisseur étant visible sur l'article et étant d'une couleur nécessitant une teinture, caractérisé en ce que la deuxième épaisseur n'est pas teinte en pièce dans ladite couleur, mais sa face extérieure est réalisée dans un fil qui est de ladite couleur.The invention achieves its goal by virtue of a lingerie article made of a textile laminate comprising: a first textile thickness having an inner face and an outer face, and a second textile thickness composed of two layers of textile assembled by knitting or weaving, the two layers being constituted by different threads, the second thickness having an inner face and an outer face, the inner face of the first thickness being attached to the inner face of the second thickness, the outer face of the second thickness being visible on the article and being of a color requiring dyeing, characterized in that the second thickness is not dyed piece in said color, but its outer face is made in a wire which is of said color.
Très avantageusement, la face intérieure de la deuxième épaisseur n'est pas teinte, c'est-à-dire que la face reste un textile en fil écru.Very advantageously, the inner face of the second thickness is not dyed, that is to say that the face remains a textile in ecru thread.
La deuxième épaisseur est en effet couramment réalisée, par des fabricants spécialisés, en fil écru pour chacune de ses couches. Il est donc nécessaire d'obtenir une couleur par teinture pour donner au produit final dans lequel cette deuxième épaisseur sera utilisée la couleur désirée, qu'elle soit sombre ou même claire. La pratique qui s'imposait jusque là à l'homme du métier était de teindre en pièce cette deuxième épaisseur dans ladite couleur qui doit être celle du produit fini. Autrement dit, c'est l'intégralité de la deuxième épaisseur qui subissait l'opération de teinture.The second thickness is indeed commonly carried out by specialized manufacturers in unbleached yarn for each of its layers. It is therefore necessary to obtain a color by dyeing to give the final product in which this second thickness will be used the desired color, whether it is dark or even clear. The practice which hitherto prevailed on the person skilled in the art was to dye this second thickness in the said color which must be that of the final product. In other words, it is the entirety of the second thickness that underwent the dyeing operation.
La Demanderesse a découvert que si l'on s'abstient de soumettre la deuxième épaisseur bicouche à une teinture en pièce dans la couleur choisie, et qu'on attache directement sa couche interne non traitée à la couche interne de la première épaisseur, la tenue du stratifié obtenu est bien meilleure et le stratifié peut notamment permettre la formation de bonnets de soutien-gorge thermoformés, sans apparition de plis ou de rides. L'absence de teinture en pièce est compensée, au niveau visuel, par le fait qu'on utilise d'emblée lors de la fabrication un fil dans la couleur voulue pour réaliser la face extérieure visible de la seconde épaisseur, tandis que la face intérieure qui n'a pas été teinte est contrecollée à la première épaisseur et est donc invisible. Ce fil de la couleur voulue peut être un fil teint en masse (c'est-à-dire obtenu par extrusion d'un polymère coloré) soit un fil teint de manière classique à l'aide d'un traitement de teinture. Dans tous les cas, on améliore le moelleux et la résistance du produit final, par exemple le bonnet de soutien-gorge. L'utilisation du fil teint en masse est avantageuse en ce qu'elle améliore encore plus le moelleux et la résilience du produit obtenu, et celle du fil teint classique est avantageuse par la variété des coloris disponibles. Sans être tenue par les explications qui vont suivre, la Demanderesse pense que les traitements de teinture en pièce, notamment de teinture sombre, entraînent pour le « spacer » qui y est soumis une dégradation de ses qualités de souplesse et d'élasticité, en raison des températures relativement élevées auxquelles il est soumis pendant l'opération de teinture généralement réalisée dans un bain chaud qui dure assez longtemps (d'autant plus longtemps que la teinte est sombre). Cette dégradation peut être plus particulièrement sensible sur le monofilament ou les fils liant entre elles les deux couches du « spacer ». En s'abstenant d'un tel traitement, l'invention permet au « spacer » de conserver toutes ses propriétés intrinsèques non dégradées. De plus, la Demanderesse a également constaté que la teinture en pièce dégrade aussi les qualités d'adhésion de la deuxième épaisseur à la première épaisseur, par rapport à l'adhésion obtenue en contrecollant une face restée en fil grège à la première épaisseur.The Applicant has discovered that if one abstains from subjecting the second bilayer thickness to a piece dyeing in the chosen color, and that one directly attaches its untreated inner layer to the inner layer of the first thickness, holding laminate obtained is much better and the laminate may in particular allow the formation of thermoformed bra cups, without appearance of wrinkles or wrinkles. The absence of piece dyeing is compensated, visually, by the fact that at the beginning of manufacture, a yarn in the desired color is used to make the visible outer face of the second thickness, whereas the inner face which has not been dyed is laminated to the first thickness and is therefore invisible. This wire of the desired color may be a dyed yarn (that is to say obtained by extrusion of a colored polymer) or a yarn dyed in a conventional manner using a dyeing treatment. In all cases, it improves the softness and strength of the final product, for example the bra cup. The use of the mass-dyed yarn is advantageous in that it further improves the softness and resilience of the product obtained, and that of the conventional dyed yarn is advantageous by the variety of colors available. Without being bound by the explanations that follow, the Applicant believes that the dyeing treatments in part, especially dark dyeing, cause for the "spacer" that is subject to a degradation of its qualities of flexibility and elasticity, because relatively high temperatures to which it is subjected during the dyeing operation generally carried out in a hot bath that lasts long enough (the longer the shade is dark). This degradation can be more particularly sensitive on the monofilament or son binding between them the two layers of the "spacer". By refraining from such treatment, the invention allows the "spacer" to retain all its intrinsic properties not degraded. In addition, the Applicant has also found that the room dyeing also degrades the adhesion qualities of the second thickness to the first thickness, with respect to the adhesion obtained by laminating a remaining face of raw wire to the first thickness.
L'invention peut présenter encore l'une ou plusieurs des caractéristiques additionnelles suivantes : - la face extérieure de la première épaisseur est de la même couleur que la face extérieure de la seconde épaisseur.The invention may further exhibit one or more of the following additional features: the outer face of the first thickness is of the same color as the outer face of the second thickness.
- la deuxième épaisseur est réalisée par deux toiles réunies par un monofilament ou multifilament. - les deux faces intérieures sont contrecollées l'une à l'autre.- The second thickness is made by two canvases joined by a monofilament or multifilament. the two inner faces are laminated to one another.
- le stratifié a subi un thermoformage, dans un moule adapté.the laminate has been thermoformed in a suitable mold.
- le stratifié constitue la partie principale d'un soutien-gorge, notamment un soutien-gorge monopièce dont l'intégralité, en dehors des attaches et des bretelles, est constituée par ledit stratifié qui a été thermoformé au niveau des bonnets.- The laminate is the main part of a bra, including a one-piece bra whose entirety, apart from the fasteners and straps, is constituted by said laminate which has been thermoformed at the cups.
Bien que l'invention apporte des avantages très nets dans le cas des produits réalisés dans des couleurs sombres comme le noir, pour lesquelles la teinture en pièce détériorait la matière et perturbait les performances de collage, elle s'applique aussi avantageusement aux couleurs claires en améliorant le collage de la seconde épaisseur et donc en prévenant ou en diminuant l'apparition de rides après thermoformage et surtout après lavages. Du reste, tout traitement global de teinture doit dégrader les performances du textile : c'est très important dans le cas des couleurs sombres, mais même dans le cas des couleurs claires où le traitement est moins long que pour les couleurs sombres, la dégradation, certes moins marquée, existe néanmoins. En utilisant, conformément à l'invention, du fil teint (masse ou classique), on garde une face non teinte qui donc n'a subi aucune détérioration.Although the invention provides very clear advantages in the case of products made in dark colors such as black, for which piece dye deteriorated the material and disrupted the bonding performance, it also applies advantageously to light colors in particular. improving the bonding of the second thickness and thus preventing or reducing the appearance of wrinkles after thermoforming and especially after washing. Moreover, any global dyeing treatment must degrade the performance of the textile: this is very important in the case of dark colors, but even in the case of light colors where the treatment is shorter than for dark colors, degradation, certainly less marked, nevertheless exists. Using, in accordance with the invention, dyed yarn (mass or conventional), we keep an undyed face which has not been damaged.
D'autres caractéristiques et avantages de l'invention ressortiront de la description suivante d'un exemple de réalisation. Il sera fait référence aux dessins annexés sur lesquels la figure unique est une vue schématique en coupe d'un stratifié textile conforme à l'invention.Other features and advantages of the invention will emerge from the following description of an exemplary embodiment. Reference will be made to the accompanying drawings in which the single figure is a schematic sectional view of a textile laminate according to the invention.
Le stratifié 1 comporte une première épaisseur 10 de textile ayant une face intérieure 11 et une face extérieure 12, et une deuxième épaisseur textile 20 composée de deux couches 23 et 24 de textiles assemblées par tricotage d'un monofilament 25. La deuxième épaisseur 20 a une face intérieure 21 et une face extérieure 22 ; la face intérieure 11 de la première épaisseur 10 est contrecollée à la face intérieure 21 de la deuxième épaisseur 20 par des points d'adhésif 26 régulièrement répartis. Du fait que, dans le « spacer » utilisé dans l'invention, les deux couches 23 et 24 sont constituées par des fils différents, il est possible de fabriquer la deuxième épaisseur 20 en utilisant un fil naturel ou grège pour réaliser la couche 23 destinée au contrecollage avec la première épaisseur 10 et un fil teint, par exemple en noir, pour réaliser la couche 24 qui est la couche apparente de la deuxième épaisseur. La deuxième épaisseur 20 n'est pas teinte en pièce et conserve donc intactes toutes ses propriétés liées à sa fabrication, notamment en ce qui concerne sa souplesse et son élasticité. Lorsque la deuxième épaisseur 20 est contrecollée à la première épaisseur 10, et que l'ensemble subit certains traitements tels que le thermoformage nécessaire à la réalisation de bonnets de soutien-gorge, les qualités de souplesse et d'élasticité de la deuxième épaisseur, non altérées par un traitement intermédiaire telle qu'une teinture en pièce, lui permettent de se déformer sans entraîner les défauts d'aspect mentionnés en tête de cette description. Les bonnets restent également moelleux et au niveau de la pointe de sein, le « spacer » possède toujours une épaisseur.The laminate 1 comprises a first fabric thickness 10 having an inner face 11 and an outer face 12, and a second textile thickness 20 composed of two layers 23 and 24 of textile joined by knitting a monofilament 25. The second thickness 20a an inner face 21 and an outer face 22; the inner face 11 of the first thickness 10 is laminated to the inner face 21 of the second thickness 20 by dots 26 regularly distributed. Because in the "spacer" used in the invention, the two layers 23 and 24 are constituted by different threads, it is possible to manufacture the second thickness 20 using a natural or raw yarn to produce the layer 23 intended laminating with the first thickness 10 and a dyed yarn, for example black, to achieve the layer 24 which is the apparent layer of the second thickness. The second thickness 20 is not dyed in piece and thus preserves intact all its properties related to its manufacture, especially as regards its flexibility and elasticity. When the second thickness 20 is laminated to the first thickness 10, and that the whole undergoes certain treatments such as the thermoforming necessary for the realization of bra cups, the qualities of flexibility and elasticity of the second thickness, no altered by an intermediate treatment such as a dye piece, allow it to deform without causing the appearance defects mentioned at the head of this description. The cups also remain soft and at the breast point, the "spacer" always has a thickness.
Les deux couches visibles du produit fini, à savoir les couches 10 et 24 peuvent ainsi avantageusement être d'une même couleur, par exemple noire, sans que la tenue de la deuxième épaisseur 20 ou du contrecollage par adhésif 26 soit altérée par une teinture massive qui aurait été pratiquée sur la deuxième épaisseur.The two visible layers of the finished product, namely the layers 10 and 24 can thus advantageously be of the same color, for example black, without the resistance of the second thickness 20 or adhesive laminating 26 being altered by a massive dyeing. which would have been practiced on the second thickness.
La deuxième épaisseur 20 est avantageusement un « spacer » réalisé par deux couches de toile 23 et 24 reliées par tricotage d'un monofilament 25 de 72/1 décitex. La toile 23 est constituée d'un polyamide (T) 78/68 décitex écru et d'un élasthanne 44 décitex. La toile 24 est constituée d'un polyamide (T) 78/46 décitex teint dans la masse et d'un élasthanne 44 décitex. Les toiles 23 et 24 sont réalisées par exemple sur un métier circulaire double fonture. L'épaisseur totale de la deuxième épaisseur 20 est comprise entre 3 et 4 mm.The second thickness 20 is advantageously a "spacer" made by two layers of fabric 23 and 24 connected by knitting a monofilament 25 of 72/1 decitex. The fabric 23 consists of a polyamide (T) 78/68 decitex ecru and a 44 decitex elastane. The fabric 24 is made of a dyed polyethylene (T) 78/46 dyed and a 44 decitex elastane. The fabrics 23 and 24 are made for example on a double circular loom. The total thickness of the second thickness 20 is between 3 and 4 mm.
L'adhésif 26 utilisé est avantageusement un silicone bicomposant de viscosité 300 000 cP et de dureté 30shores A. A titre d'exemple, il peut être déposé selon une répartition par points en trame 65 couramment utilisée par les professionnels de la sérigraphie.The adhesive 26 used is advantageously a two-component silicone with a viscosity of 300,000 cP and a hardness of 30 grains A. By way of example, it can be deposited according to a point distribution in weft 65 commonly used by screen printing professionals.
La deuxième épaisseur 20 peut aussi être réalisée en tant que textile double face par différentes procédés de tissage ou de tricotage. Pour le tricotage en mailles cueillies, les articles peuvent être réalisés par vanisage lorsqu'on travaille avec une seule fonture d'aiguille, ou sur une base d'interlock spécifique avec deux fontures d'aiguilles, ou encore selon des techniques de tricotage tridimensionnel.The second thickness 20 can also be made as a double-sided textile by different weaving or knitting processes. For knit stitching, articles can be made by vanishing when works with a single needle bed, or on a specific interlock base with two needle beds, or three-dimensional knitting techniques.
Le stratifié 1 est avantageusement utilisé pour la fabrication d'un soutien gorge multicouche à « spacer », par exemple selon les principes décrits dans les demandes de brevet français déposées sous les numéros 0509491 et 0609981. On pourra aussi se reporter au document US 2002/0106970 pour des indications générales sur la fabrication des soutien-gorge multicouches. The laminate 1 is advantageously used for the manufacture of a multilayer "spacer" bra, for example according to the principles described in the French patent applications filed under the numbers 0509491 and 0609981. It will also be possible to refer to the document US 2002 / 0106970 for general indications on the manufacture of multilayer bra.

Claims

REVENDICATIONS
1) Article de lingerie réalisé dans un stratifié textile comportant : une première épaisseur (10) de textile ayant une face intérieure (11) et une face extérieure (12), et une deuxième épaisseur textile (20) composée de deux couches de textiles (23, 24) assemblées par tricotage ou tissage, les deux couches (23, 24) étant constituées par des fils différents, la deuxième épaisseur (20) ayant une face intérieure (21) et une face extérieure (22), la face intérieure (11) de la première épaisseur (10) étant attachée à la face intérieure (21) de la deuxième épaisseur (20), la face extérieure (22) de la deuxième épaisseur (20) étant visible sur l'article et d'une couleur nécessitant une teinture, caractérisé en ce que la deuxième épaisseur (20) n'est pas teinte en pièce dans ladite couleur, mais sa face extérieure (22) est réalisée dans un fil qui est de ladite couleur.1) Lingerie article made of a textile laminate comprising: a first thickness (10) of textile having an inner face (11) and an outer face (12), and a second textile thickness (20) composed of two layers of textile ( 23, 24) assembled by knitting or weaving, the two layers (23, 24) being constituted by different threads, the second thickness (20) having an inner face (21) and an outer face (22), the inner face ( 11) of the first thickness (10) being attached to the inner face (21) of the second thickness (20), the outer face (22) of the second thickness (20) being visible on the article and a color requiring dyeing, characterized in that the second thickness (20) is not dyed into said color, but its outer face (22) is made of a wire which is of said color.
2) Article selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que la face intérieure (21) de la deuxième épaisseur n'est pas teinte.2) Article according to claim 1, characterized in that the inner face (21) of the second thickness is not dyed.
3) Article selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 ou 2, caractérisé en ce que le fil de la face extérieure (22) est teint classiquement.3) Article according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the wire of the outer face (22) is dyed classically.
4) Article selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 ou 2, caractérisé en ce que le fil de la face extérieure (22) est teint en masse.4) Article according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the wire of the outer face (22) is dyed mass.
5) Article selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 4, caractérisé en ce que la face extérieure (12) de la première épaisseur (10) est de la même couleur. 6) Article selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 5, caractérisé en ce que la deuxième épaisseur (20) est réalisée par deux toiles (23, 24) réunies par un monofilament (25) ou un multifilament.5) Article according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the outer face (12) of the first thickness (10) is the same color. 6) Article according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the second thickness (20) is formed by two webs (23, 24) joined by a monofilament (25) or a multifilament.
7) Article selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 6, caractérisé en ce que les deux faces intérieures (11, 21) sont contrecollées l'une à l'autre.7) Article according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the two inner faces (11, 21) are bonded to one another.
8) Article selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 7, caractérisé en ce qu'il a subi un thermoformage.8) Article according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it has undergone thermoforming.
9) Article selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 8, caractérisé en ce qu'il constitue la partie principale d'un soutien-gorge. 9) Article according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it constitutes the main part of a bra.
PCT/FR2008/000191 2007-02-21 2008-02-14 Item of lingerie made from a fabric laminate including a first fabric thickness attached to a second three-dimensional thickness of material with two fabric faces WO2008116987A2 (en)

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FR0701221A FR2912611B1 (en) 2007-02-21 2007-02-21 TEXTILE LAMINATE HAVING A FIRST TEXTILE LAYER ATTACHED TO A LAYER OF MATERIAL WITH TWO FACES OF TEXTILES.
FR0701221 2007-02-21

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WO2008116987A3 WO2008116987A3 (en) 2008-12-31

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US20040097151A1 (en) * 2002-11-16 2004-05-20 Mcmurray Brian Decorative faced multi-layer weft knit spacer fabric, method, and articles made therefrom
WO2004073433A2 (en) * 2003-02-19 2004-09-02 Sara Lee Corporation A brassiere having a spacer fabric and a method of making same
WO2005108054A2 (en) * 2004-04-22 2005-11-17 Highland Industries, Inc. Spacer fabric
FR2890832A1 (en) * 2005-09-16 2007-03-23 Lee Sara Corp MULTILAYER MONOPIECED THROTTLE ELEMENT AND METHOD OF MANUFACTURING THE SAME

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WO2003033796A1 (en) * 2001-10-16 2003-04-24 G22 Altesse Co., Ltd. Not-sew seamless technology
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FR2912611A1 (en) 2008-08-22
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