EP3375307B1 - Bh aus strickstoff mit variabler elastizität - Google Patents

Bh aus strickstoff mit variabler elastizität Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3375307B1
EP3375307B1 EP18169311.0A EP18169311A EP3375307B1 EP 3375307 B1 EP3375307 B1 EP 3375307B1 EP 18169311 A EP18169311 A EP 18169311A EP 3375307 B1 EP3375307 B1 EP 3375307B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
cup
bra
stiffener
knitted
mesh
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Active
Application number
EP18169311.0A
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English (en)
French (fr)
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EP3375307A1 (de
Inventor
Manon Turlan
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
DBI Operations Europe SAS
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Hanes Operations Europe SAS
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Publication date
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Publication of EP3375307A1 publication Critical patent/EP3375307A1/de
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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41C—CORSETS; BRASSIERES
    • A41C3/00—Brassieres
    • A41C3/0007—Brassieres with stay means
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41F—GARMENT FASTENINGS; SUSPENDERS
    • A41F15/00—Shoulder or like straps
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/18—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/246—Upper torso garments, e.g. sweaters, shirts, leotards

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a bra which is made of circular knitted fabric and which has a plurality of portions with variable elasticity.
  • This type of bra which is produced by means of a circular knitting machine provided for this purpose, has the advantage of being comfortable to wear and of offering a certain flexibility and elastic extensibility.
  • the bra has a back panel, a front panel preferably having a pair of cups and preferably a pair of straps.
  • the rear panel has at least one reinforced area.
  • the cups, suspenders and throat lug also have reinforced zones.
  • the reinforcement areas are formed during the knitting process, and also preferably using construction combinations of missing stitches with positive float and added in the threads.
  • the bra also has a real terry or imitation terry fabric construction on the fabric side of the reinforced areas, on the user side, to provide moisture wicking properties.
  • the reinforced areas of the present invention can also be knitted in garments such as support garments, maternity garments and sports garments.
  • the bra has a first knitted cap and a second knitted cap which are aligned transversely and which each have a generally hemispherical shape.
  • the bra has a back strap and a pair of straps.
  • Each cap has a first lower peripheral portion which is made of knitted fabric, to support the chest.
  • each cap is supported by an attached lower tubular frame forming a stiffener, which is sewn or glued to the underside of each cap.
  • the invention defines a bra made of a knitted fabric according to the features of claim 1.
  • the invention makes it possible to provide a bra allowing optimal support of the chest without the need for resorting to underwired frames or to thermoformed cups.
  • the dependent claims 2 to 12 define more precisely the brassiere of claim 1. These characteristics are described below.
  • the stiffener has little or no elastic extensibility in a vertical direction, perpendicular to a transverse direction, so as to support the chest.
  • first peripheral support portion of each cup has a vertical elastic extensibility greater than that of the stiffener, and in that said first portion is vertically nervous, so as to lift the chest without crushing it.
  • the second portion allows in particular to bring depth to the cups when the bra is worn.
  • the stiffener and the first portion of each cup has a number of stitches per unit area which is less than the number of stitches per unit area of the second portion of each cup, to make the stiffener and said first portion less stretchable transversely than the second portion.
  • each cup has a third central portion which is adjacent to the second portion, which has a generally circular shape generally arranged in the center of the associated cup, and which has a lower vertical and transverse elastic extensibility than that of the second neighboring portion.
  • the third portion has a number of stitches per unit area which is less than the number of stitches per unit area of the second portion of each cup, to make the third portion less transversely extensible than the second portion.
  • each portion of each cap is knitted using a different type of mesh.
  • stiffener forms a central strip which connects the first cap and the second cap to each other so as to limit their transverse spacing.
  • each cap, the stiffener and the dorsal fastening strip are made in one piece by circular knitting.
  • This characteristic makes it possible to produce a large part of the bra according to the invention on a circular knitting machine in a single knitting step.
  • bra 10 made of knitted fabric, which is represented in a configuration worn by a standing person, so that the transverse direction T represented by the trihedron L, V, T at the figure 1 corresponds to a horizontal direction.
  • the brassiere 10 comprises a first knitted cap 12a and a second knitted cap 12b which are aligned transversely and which each have a generally hemispherical shape, with convexity oriented towards the front in a longitudinal direction.
  • the bra 10 has a back fixing band 14 which is here composed of a first panel 16a and a second panel 16b which can be connected together behind the back of the user by means of attachment. 17 removable, shown in figure 2 .
  • the attachment means 17 is of the staple type and with complementary notches, for example.
  • the bra 10 can also be designed to be attached from the front, between the two cups 12a, 12b, according to a design example not shown.
  • the bra 10 can be made of a tube without attachment means, to be put on by the head.
  • the dorsal fastening strip 14 is made of stretch knit in a transverse direction corresponding to its great length.
  • the bra 10 is equipped with a pair of straps 18a, 18b which are designed to support the bra 10 on the shoulders of the user.
  • the bra 10 comprises a knitting part 20 which is called “stiffener” 20 in the following description.
  • the stiffener 20 in particular forms a reinforcing strip 22 which extends below each cup 12a, 12b to promote the support and the holding of each cup 12a, 12b.
  • the reinforcing strip 22 of the stiffener 20 surrounds the lower periphery of each cup 12a, 12b, generally the lower half of each cup 12a, 12b.
  • stiffener 20 forms a central strip 24 which connects the first cup 12a and the second cup 12b to each other so as to limit their transverse spacing relative to one another.
  • the stiffener 20 forms a first lateral band 26a which connects the first cap 12a to the first panel 16a, and a second lateral band 26b which connects the second cap 12b to the second panel 16b of the fixing band 14.
  • the stiffener 20 is produced by knitting according to a first type of mesh 28 illustrated in the figure 3 and described later, which is designed to replace an added frame, such as a metal frame for example.
  • the first type of mesh 28 of the stiffener 20 has a low elastic elasticity, even zero, in a vertical direction.
  • low elastic extensibility is understood here to mean an extensibility which is less than or equal to twenty percent, and preferably less than or equal to ten percent relative to a state of rest of the knitted fabric.
  • each cup 12a, 12b comprises, from the periphery towards the center of the cup, a first portion 30a, 30b, a second portion 32a, 32b, and a third portion 34a, 34b respectively.
  • the first portion 30a, 30b forms the lower periphery of each cup 12a, 12b, so as to support the chest.
  • the first portion 30a, 30b of each cup 12a, 12b substantially surrounds three quarters of each cup 12a, 12b, including a lower half and an upper lateral outer quarter, on the side of the arm of the user.
  • first portion 30a, 30b of each cup 12a, 12b is elastically extensible and it is made of knitted fabric according to a second type of mesh 36 which will be described later.
  • first portion 30a, 30b of each cup 12a, 12b has a vertical elastic extensibility greater than that of the stiffener 20.
  • first portion 30a, 30b of each cup 12a, 12b is sufficiently nervous vertically to lift the chest without crushing it.
  • each cup 12a, 12b forms a ring which is arranged inside the first portion 30a, 30b.
  • the second portion 32a, 32b is elastically extensible in a transverse direction and it has an elastic extensibility greater than that of the first portion 30a, 30b, so as to obtain a satisfactory cup depth 12a, 12b.
  • the second portion 32a, 32b is produced in knitting according to a third type of mesh 38 which is described below.
  • each cup 12a, 12b forms a circle which is arranged in the center of the associated cup and which is surrounded by the second adjacent portion 32a, 32b.
  • the third portion 34a, 34b is elastically extensible and it has an elastic extensibility less than that of the second portion 32a, 32b.
  • the third portion 34a, 34b is produced in knitting according to a fourth type of mesh 40 described below.
  • the different portions 30a, 30b, 32a, 32b, 34a, 34b of each cup 12a, 12b, the stiffener 20 and the dorsal fastening strip 14 are produced in one piece by circular knitting.
  • each cup 12a, 12b is arranged in a generally concentric manner, as can be seen in Figures 1 and 2 .
  • the eight rows of yarns of each type of knitting mesh consist successively of a wrapped yarn F1, a first polypropylene yarn F2, a first textured yarn F3, a second polypropylene yarn F4, a flat yarn F5, a third yarn in polypropylene F6, a second textured thread F7 and a fourth thread in polypropylene F8.
  • wrapped yarn means a yarn consisting of a central part called the core, and a peripheral part called a cover.
  • the central part is a spandex or natural rubber thread, for example, which gives the wrapped thread elastic characteristics.
  • the peripheral part is made of natural fibers, such as cotton or wool, or synthetic fibers, such as polyamide or polyester, for example.
  • the wrapped yarn F1 comprises a central part in elastane and a peripheral part in polyamide.
  • textured yarn is meant a flexible and bulky yarn having elastic extensibility properties, unlike a flat yarn.
  • Textured yarn is for example obtained by twisting smooth fibers, generally synthetic, to increase its volume, making it soft to the touch and a little stretchy.
  • flat wire means a wire which does not lengthen, which is here made of polyester or polyamide.
  • the flat yarn is a monofilament yarn, as opposed to a textured yarn which is a multi-filament.
  • the flat wire is obtained by spinning the material at a sufficient speed, generally between 1000 meters per minute and 5000 meters per minute, and if necessary by means of additional drawing to obtain a wire that is amorphous or has a low degree of crystallinity. , usually less than 5 percent.
  • each type of mesh 28, 36, 38, 40 in a transverse direction in the direction of the wire, and in a vertical direction in the direction of the mesh, is determined by the nature of the wire used and the type of knitting made.
  • the jump in mesh is illustrated in figures 3 to 6 , by the loops which extend vertically in several rows in succession. The more the mesh jump, the lower the intrinsic vertical elastic extensibility of the knitted fabric.
  • the first type of mesh 28 and the second type of mesh 36 each comprise a “guarded” mesh in eight rows, alternating one column in two.
  • the thread of the guarded mesh of the first type of mesh 28 is the flat thread F5, which does not lengthen, so that the first type of mesh 28 has a low, even zero, vertical elastic extensibility.
  • the wire of the “guarded” mesh of the second type of mesh 36 is the gimped wire F1, which is relatively elastic, so that the second type of mesh 36 is very nervous vertically.
  • the second type of mesh 36 has a vertical extensibility of one hundred and forty percent relative to a state at rest.
  • the first covered yarn F1 the third textured yarn F3, the flat yarn F5 and the textured yarn F7 are each "kept" in two rows, one column out of four, forming jumps of meshes arranged in staggered rows.
  • the first wrapped yarn F1, the third textured yarn F3, the flat yarn F5 and the textured yarn F7 are each kept in two rows, one column in two, forming jumps of meshes arranged in staggered rows .
  • each type of mesh 28, 36, 38, 40 in a transverse direction, in the direction of the wire, is determined by the number of meshes per unit of surface 42. The more the number of meshes is high and more the transverse elastic extensibility of the mesh tends to be great.
  • the first type of mesh 28 and the second type of mesh 36 each have thirty six meshes per unit of area 42
  • the third type of mesh 38 has fifty six meshes per unit of area 42
  • the fourth type of mesh 40 has forty eight meshes per unit area 42.
  • the high number of meshes of the fourth type of mesh 40 makes it possible to make the third portion 34a, 34b central of each cup 12a, 12b opaque, thus hiding the chest.
  • the first type of mesh 28 has the lowest vertical extensibility, which is for example between zero and twenty percent, and which is preferably equal to ten percent, or even zero percent, relative to a state at rest .
  • the second type of mesh 36 has a vertical extensibility which is greater than that of the first type of mesh 28, and which is for example equal to one hundred and forty percent of elongation compared to a state at rest.
  • the third type of mesh 38 has a vertical extensibility which is greater than that of the second type of mesh 36, and which is for example equal to one hundred seventy five percent of elongation compared to a state at rest.
  • the fourth type of mesh 40 has a vertical extensibility which is less than that of the third type of mesh 38, and which is for example equal to one hundred and fifty percent of elongation relative to a state at rest.
  • transverse elastic extensibility of the third type of mesh 38 and of the fourth type of mesh 40 is for example one hundred seventy-five percent of elongation compared to a state at rest.
  • the bra 10 makes it possible to dispense with an attached frame.
  • the bra 10 according to the invention can be fitted with an added frame to improve the support of the chest.
  • the stiffener 20 surrounds the lower periphery of each cup 12a, 12b, as well as part of the upper periphery of each cup 12a, 12b, to enhance the volume of the cups 12a, 12b.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Corsets Or Brassieres (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Orthopedics, Nursing, And Contraception (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Claims (12)

  1. BH (10) aus einem Strickstoff, wobei der BH umfasst:
    ein erstes gestricktes Körbchen (12a) und ein zweites gestricktes Körbchen (12b), die quer ausgerichtet sind und die jeweils eine insgesamt halbkugelförmige Form aufweisen, wobei jedes Körbchen (12a, 12b) einen ersten elastisch dehnbaren Umfangsteil (30a, 30b) umfasst, der aus einem Strickstoff besteht und dazu dient, die Brust zu stützen,
    einen eine Aussteifung (20) bildenden Teil, der sich zumindest teilweise unterhalb jedes Körbchens (12a, 12b) erstreckt, und
    ein Band (14), das zum Befestigen des Rückenteils des BH (10) dient, wobei die Aussteifung (20) ein Verstärkungsband bildet, das den ersten Stütz-Umfangsteil (30a, 30b) jedes Körbchens (12a, 12b) zumindest teilweise umgibt, wobei die Aussteifung (20) aus einem Strickstoff gemäß einem ersten Maschentyp (28) besteht, der dazu ausgelegt ist, eine zusätzliche Aussteifung zu ersetzen, und dadurch gekennzeichnet ist, dass jedes Körbchen unter dem ersten gestrickten Körbchen und dem zweiten gestrickten Körbchen einen zweiten ringförmigen inneren Teil (32a, 32b) umfasst, der benachbart zu dem ersten Teil (30a, 30b) ist, der transversal und vertikal elastisch dehnbar ist und der eine vertikale und transversale elastische Dehnbarkeit aufweist, die größer oder gleich der des ersten Teils (30a, 30b) ist.
  2. BH (10) nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Aussteifung (20) eine geringe oder keine elastische Dehnbarkeit entlang einer vertikalen Richtung, die senkrecht zu einer transversalen Richtung verläuft, aufweist, so dass die Brust gestützt wird.
  3. BH (10) nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der erste Stütz-Umfangsteil (30a, 30b) jedes Körbchens (12a, 12b) eine höhere vertikale elastische Dehnbarkeit als die Aussteifung (20) aufweist und dass der erste Teil (30a, 30b) vertikal reaktiv ist, so dass die Brust gehoben wird, ohne sie zu quetschen.
  4. BH (10) nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Aussteifung (20) und der erste Teil (30a, 30b) jedes Körbchens (12a, 12b) eine Maschenzahl je Flächeneinheit (42) umfassen, die kleiner als die Maschenzahl je Flächeneinheit (42) des zweiten Teils (32a, 32b) jedes Körbchens (12a, 12b) ist, so dass die Aussteifung (20) und der erste Teil (30a, 30b) transversal weniger dehnbar als der zweite Teil (32a, 32b) gemacht werden.
  5. BH (10) nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 4, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass jedes Körbchen (12a, 12b) einen dritten mittleren Teil (34a, 34b) umfasst, der benachbart zu dem zweiten Teil (32a, 32b) ist, der eine insgesamt kreisförmige Form hat, die insgesamt in der Mitte des zugehörigen Körbchens (12a, 12b) angeordnet ist, und der eine geringere vertikale und transversale elastische Dehnbarkeit als der zweite Teil (32a, 32b) aufweist.
  6. BH (10) nach Anspruch 5, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der dritte Teil (34a, 34b) eine Maschenzahl je Flächeneinheit (42) umfasst, die kleiner als die Maschenzahl je Flächeneinheit (42) des zweiten Teils (32a, 32b) jedes Körbchens (12a, 12b) ist, so dass der dritte Teil (34a, 34b) transversal weniger dehnbar als der zweite Teil (32a, 32b) gemacht wird.
  7. BH (10) nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 6, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass jeder Teil (30a, 30b, 32a, 32b, 34a, 34b) jedes Körbchens (12a, 12b) aus einem Strickstoff gemäß einem unterschiedlichen Maschentyp besteht.
  8. BH (10) nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Aussteifung (20) ein mittleres Band (24) bildet, welches das erste Körbchen (12a) und das zweite Körbchen (12b) so miteinander verbindet, dass ihr Querabstand begrenzt wird.
  9. BH (10) nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die verschiedenen Teile (30a, 30b, 32a, 32b, 34a, 34b) jedes Körbchens (12a, 12b), die Aussteifung (20) und das zur Befestigung des Rückenteils dienende Band (14) einstückig durch Rundstricken ausgeführt sind.
  10. BH (10) nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 9, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der zweite Teil jedes Körbchens einen Ring bildet, der im Innern des ersten Teils jedes Körbchens unter dem ersten gestrickten Körbchen und dem zweiten gestrickten Körbchen angeordnet ist.
  11. BH (10) nach einem der Ansprüche 5 bis 10, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der dritte Teil jedes Körbchens einen Kreis bildet, der auf Höhe eines Mittelpunkts jedes Körbchens und im Innern des zweiten Teils jedes Körbchens unter dem ersten gestrickten Körbchen und dem zweiten gestrickten Körbchen angeordnet ist.
  12. BH (10) nach einem der Ansprüche 5 bis 11, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der erste Teil, der zweite Teil und der dritte Teil bei jedem Körbchen unter dem ersten gestrickten Körbchen und dem zweiten gestrickten Körbchen konzentrisch angeordnet sind.
EP18169311.0A 2012-11-13 2013-11-13 Bh aus strickstoff mit variabler elastizität Active EP3375307B1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR1260761A FR2997820A1 (fr) 2012-11-13 2012-11-13 Soutien-gorge realise en tricot a elasticite variable
FR1260949A FR2997821B1 (fr) 2012-11-13 2012-11-19 Soutien-gorge realise en tricot a elasticite variable
EP13803135.6A EP2919601B1 (de) 2012-11-13 2013-11-13 Bh aus strickstoff mit variabler elastizität
PCT/FR2013/052722 WO2014076413A1 (fr) 2012-11-13 2013-11-13 Soutien-gorge réalisé en tricot à élasticité variable

Related Parent Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP13803135.6A Division EP2919601B1 (de) 2012-11-13 2013-11-13 Bh aus strickstoff mit variabler elastizität

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3375307A1 EP3375307A1 (de) 2018-09-19
EP3375307B1 true EP3375307B1 (de) 2020-05-13

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Country Status (9)

Country Link
US (1) US9538794B2 (de)
EP (2) EP2919601B1 (de)
CN (1) CN104754968B (de)
BR (1) BR112015006908A2 (de)
CA (1) CA2885319C (de)
ES (2) ES2684555T3 (de)
FR (2) FR2997820A1 (de)
MX (1) MX347338B (de)
WO (1) WO2014076413A1 (de)

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WO2006025754A1 (en) 2004-08-31 2006-03-09 Trifinity Limited An uplift bra
US7614256B2 (en) * 2005-04-08 2009-11-10 Hbi Branded Apparel Enterprises, Llc Back supporting brassiere and undergarments with reinforced zones and method of making the same
JP4871581B2 (ja) * 2005-12-09 2012-02-08 株式会社Ｍｉｃ バストサイド等を押える機能を持った基礎衣料
US8047891B1 (en) 2008-01-18 2011-11-01 Nikita Albritton Nikita bra
TWM375399U (en) 2009-04-17 2010-03-11 Tzu-Hsuan Chien Elastic aerated article for breast augmentation
FR2972905B1 (fr) 2011-03-23 2013-05-03 Dbapparel Operations Structure de bonnet de soutien-gorge
DE202012003154U1 (de) 2012-03-28 2012-07-25 Chuan-Shing Lin Selbst zu verstellender Büstenhalter

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
FR2997821B1 (fr) 2015-06-05
MX2015003839A (es) 2015-07-17
FR2997820A1 (fr) 2014-05-16
EP2919601B1 (de) 2018-05-23
CA2885319C (en) 2019-08-20
CN104754968B (zh) 2017-01-11
EP2919601A1 (de) 2015-09-23
US9538794B2 (en) 2017-01-10
CN104754968A (zh) 2015-07-01
US20160242472A1 (en) 2016-08-25
FR2997821A1 (fr) 2014-05-16
MX347338B (es) 2017-04-24
WO2014076413A1 (fr) 2014-05-22
CA2885319A1 (en) 2014-05-22
EP3375307A1 (de) 2018-09-19
ES2684555T3 (es) 2018-10-03
ES2801331T3 (es) 2021-01-11
BR112015006908A2 (pt) 2017-07-04

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