EP3246766A1 - Herstellungsverfahren einer uhr, die mit einem relief-verkleidungselement ausgestattet ist - Google Patents

Herstellungsverfahren einer uhr, die mit einem relief-verkleidungselement ausgestattet ist Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3246766A1
EP3246766A1 EP16170378.0A EP16170378A EP3246766A1 EP 3246766 A1 EP3246766 A1 EP 3246766A1 EP 16170378 A EP16170378 A EP 16170378A EP 3246766 A1 EP3246766 A1 EP 3246766A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
metal layer
substrate
volume
insulating layer
layer
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP16170378.0A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP3246766B1 (de
Inventor
Pascal Grossenbacher
Stewes Bourban
Pierry Vuille
Yves Winkler
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Swatch Group Research and Development SA
Original Assignee
Swatch Group Research and Development SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Swatch Group Research and Development SA filed Critical Swatch Group Research and Development SA
Priority to EP16170378.0A priority Critical patent/EP3246766B1/de
Priority to CH00646/16A priority patent/CH712474A2/fr
Priority to JP2017089534A priority patent/JP6310595B2/ja
Priority to US15/591,138 priority patent/US11027574B2/en
Priority to CN201710352353.1A priority patent/CN107402513B/zh
Publication of EP3246766A1 publication Critical patent/EP3246766A1/de
Priority to HK18105942.8A priority patent/HK1246413A1/zh
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP3246766B1 publication Critical patent/EP3246766B1/de
Active legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

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Classifications

    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B44—DECORATIVE ARTS
    • B44C—PRODUCING DECORATIVE EFFECTS; MOSAICS; TARSIA WORK; PAPERHANGING
    • B44C1/00—Processes, not specifically provided for elsewhere, for producing decorative surface effects
    • B44C1/10—Applying flat materials, e.g. leaflets, pieces of fabrics
    • B44C1/14—Metallic leaves or foils, e.g. gold leaf
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04D—APPARATUS OR TOOLS SPECIALLY DESIGNED FOR MAKING OR MAINTAINING CLOCKS OR WATCHES
    • G04D3/00—Watchmakers' or watch-repairers' machines or tools for working materials
    • G04D3/0002—Watchmakers' or watch-repairers' machines or tools for working materials for mechanical working other than with a lathe
    • G04D3/0043—Watchmakers' or watch-repairers' machines or tools for working materials for mechanical working other than with a lathe for components of the time-indicating mechanisms
    • G04D3/0048—Watchmakers' or watch-repairers' machines or tools for working materials for mechanical working other than with a lathe for components of the time-indicating mechanisms for dials
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B37/00—Cases
    • G04B37/22—Materials or processes of manufacturing pocket watch or wrist watch cases
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B44—DECORATIVE ARTS
    • B44C—PRODUCING DECORATIVE EFFECTS; MOSAICS; TARSIA WORK; PAPERHANGING
    • B44C1/00—Processes, not specifically provided for elsewhere, for producing decorative surface effects
    • B44C1/24—Pressing or stamping ornamental designs on surfaces
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C25—ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PROCESSES; APPARATUS THEREFOR
    • C25D—PROCESSES FOR THE ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PRODUCTION OF COATINGS; ELECTROFORMING; APPARATUS THEREFOR
    • C25D1/00—Electroforming
    • C25D1/10—Moulds; Masks; Masterforms
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C25—ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PROCESSES; APPARATUS THEREFOR
    • C25D—PROCESSES FOR THE ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PRODUCTION OF COATINGS; ELECTROFORMING; APPARATUS THEREFOR
    • C25D5/00—Electroplating characterised by the process; Pretreatment or after-treatment of workpieces
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B19/00—Indicating the time by visual means
    • G04B19/04—Hands; Discs with a single mark or the like
    • G04B19/042—Construction and manufacture of the hands; arrangements for increasing reading accuracy
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B19/00—Indicating the time by visual means
    • G04B19/06—Dials
    • G04B19/10—Ornamental shape of the graduations or the surface of the dial; Attachment of the graduations to the dial
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B19/00—Indicating the time by visual means
    • G04B19/06—Dials
    • G04B19/12—Selection of materials for dials or graduations markings
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B19/00—Indicating the time by visual means
    • G04B19/06—Dials
    • G04B19/18—Graduations on the crystal or glass, on the bezel, or on the rim
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B19/00—Indicating the time by visual means
    • G04B19/28—Adjustable guide marks or pointers for indicating determined points of time
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B45/00—Time pieces of which the indicating means or cases provoke special effects, e.g. aesthetic effects
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C27/00—Making jewellery or other personal adornments

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a method of manufacturing a piece such as a timepiece, jewelery or jewelery, for example a watch face, a bezel, a bracelet, etc.
  • the method more particularly makes it possible to produce a covering element on said part, such as an hour indicator, a decorative element, etc.
  • a disadvantage of this method is that it does not allow for cladding elements formed integrally with the dial, the dial being covered with a different color layer to produce the desired two-tone appearance.
  • Another disadvantage is the limitation in the form of the cladding elements.
  • the method does not make it possible to form dressing elements that are raised relative to the dial, that is to say elements whose lower face (the face vis-à-vis the dial) is not fully pressed against the dial, that is to say elements of dressing comprising a head surmounting a narrower part, the part narrow being linked to the dial.
  • the method does not allow to produce trim elements with textured heads, for example guilloche.
  • Another disadvantage is that the method does not make it possible to produce cladding elements formed of a non-metallic material.
  • the object of the present invention is to overcome all or part of the disadvantages mentioned above.
  • the method according to the first embodiment makes it possible to manufacture a piece provided with a raised dressing element.
  • This skin element consists of the portion of the volume filling the pattern at the end of the recovery step, it is therefore impossible to separate the dressing element of the room.
  • the covering element is of a shape corresponding to the impression of the pattern, it is understood that the recess can take any desired shape.
  • the covering element is the color of the base material of the part, which forms a contrast with the color of the metal layer disposed around the covering element.
  • the part formed by the method according to the second embodiment differs from the part formed by the method according to the first embodiment in that the covering element has a recess, that is to say an elevation, by compared to the metal layer.
  • the metal layer is curved around the cladding element.
  • the periphery of the lower face of the cladding element rests on the metal layer in the first embodiment, which is not the case in the second embodiment. All this gives different aesthetic aspects to both rooms.
  • the manufacturing method according to the first or second embodiment may include one or more of the features below, in any technically possible combination.
  • the pattern comprises a background having a texture, for example a guilloche.
  • the base material is an amorphous metal or a polymer
  • the covering step being carried out by pressing a block of base material on the assembly comprising the substrate and the metal layer.
  • the base material is metallic, the covering step being performed by galvanic growth of the base material on the assembly comprising the substrate and the layer. metallic.
  • the metal layer is made of gold, silver or nickel.
  • the insulating layer is made of resin.
  • the method according to the invention comprises the following steps.
  • a step Md_Sub shown at figure 1a , it is equipped with a SB electrically conductive substrate, also called master in the middle of the molding.
  • the substrate SB is advantageously made of brass, but may be made of another material, for example stainless steel, aluminum, nickel, a cermet composite, a ceramic or a polymer rendered conductor (electrolytic deposition or plasma treatment for example), etc.
  • the substrate SB comprises a hollow MT pattern opening on an upper surface SP of the substrate SB. In one embodiment, the MT pattern was obtained by machining the SB substrate.
  • the MT pattern has a flat bottom ST extending parallel to the upper surface SP of the substrate SB, and FC flanks extending substantially orthogonal to said bottom ST, but this form is not limiting.
  • the FC sidewalls could be inclined with respect to the upper surface SP at an angle ⁇ 'less than 90 °, the bottom ST might not be entirely parallel to the upper surface SP, etc.
  • the upper surface SP of the substrate SB and the bottom ST of the MT pattern have optionally undergone a surface machining to create a particular texture that it is desired to give the piece, for example a guilloche, as seen on the figure 1a .
  • an insulating layer CI is deposited in the MT pattern up to the level of the upper surface SP.
  • the deposition step Md_Cis is for example made by steaming a resin in viscous form deposited in the MT pattern.
  • the excess is removed by surfacing.
  • this surfacing also makes it possible to create or recreate a texture at the level of the upper surface SP.
  • a step Md_Cga shown at figure 1c depositing a metal layer CM on the upper surface SP (electrically conductive) of the substrate SB by galvanic growth.
  • the substrate SB and the insulating layer CI are thus immersed in a galvanic bath adapted to the deposition of a metal such as gold, silver, nickel, or any other metal or metal alloy that can be deposited in a relatively thick layer .
  • the metal deposit increases not only orthogonally to the upper surface SP, but also laterally, that is to say in the direction of the insulating layer CI.
  • the metal layer CM therefore has lateral ends EL which rest on the insulating layer CI.
  • the metal layer CM is machined to reduce its thickness E and / or to structure or polish its surface.
  • step Md_Dis shown at the figure 1d the insulating layer CI is dissolved. There then remains only a set ES formed of the SB substrate and the CM metal layer.
  • a surface treatment of this set ES is carried out.
  • This treatment is for example the application of a release agent or a passivation treatment. The interest of this step appears in the rest of the text.
  • this ES assembly is covered by a volume VL of a base material of the part to be manufactured, so that the volume VL forms an imprint of the assembly ES.
  • the base material is amorphous or partially amorphous metal, interesting for its mechanical properties.
  • the base material is a polymer. In both cases, a block of amorphous or partially amorphous metal, or of polymer, is pressed onto the assembly ES at a temperature at which it has a pasty consistency, which allows it to deform to conform to the shapes of the ES assembly, and in particular those of the CM metal layer and the MT pattern.
  • the base material is any other metal or metal alloy, for example nickel, gold, etc., and the coating is made by galvanic growth of said metal.
  • the volume VL of base material has a portion EH of a shape corresponding to the imprint of the pattern MT, and a narrow portion BA corresponding to the filling of the space between the lateral ends EL of the metal layer CM.
  • the volume VL of the base material and the metal layer CM of the substrate SB are separated.
  • the SB substrate is for example immersed in a selective acid bath in which it is dissolved.
  • the separation is carried out by force demolding. Having previously carried out a surface treatment of the ES assembly then makes it easier to demold.
  • the volume VL of the base material has a relief embossing element EH of shape corresponding to the imprint of the pattern MT, and an upper face SF covered with the metal layer CM.
  • the metal layer CM extends on either side of the narrow portion BA, between the upper face SF of the volume VL and a lower face FF of the covering element EH. It is noted that the entire lower face FF of the covering element EH is in contact with the layer metallic CM: the lower face FF of the cladding element is in the extension of the upper surface of the metal layer CM.
  • the method according to the invention comprises the steps Md_Sub to Md_Cis previously described, followed by the following steps.
  • a step Md'_Gct shown at the figure 2a depositing a metal intermediate layer CT on the upper surface SP (metal) of the substrate SB by galvanic growth.
  • the substrate SB and the insulating layer CI are thus immersed in a galvanic bath suitable for the deposition of a metal such as nickel.
  • the metal deposit increases not only orthogonally to the upper surface SP, but also laterally, that is to say in the direction of the insulating layer CI.
  • the intermediate layer CT therefore has lateral ends EL "which rest on the insulating layer CI.
  • a metal layer CM ' is deposited on the intermediate layer CT (metal) by galvanic growth.
  • the metal is for example gold or silver, but can be any other metal or metal alloy that can be deposited in a relatively thick layer.
  • the metal layer CM ' covers the intermediate layer CT.
  • the metal layer CM 'therefore has lateral ends EL' which cover the lateral ends EL "of the intermediate layer CT, and which rest on the insulating layer CI.
  • the metal layer CM ' is machined to reduce its thickness E' and / or to structure or polish its surface.
  • step Md'_Dis shown at the Figure 2c the insulating layer CI is dissolved. There then remains only a set ES 'formed of the substrate SB, the intermediate layer CT and the metal layer CM'.
  • a surface treatment of this set ES ' is carried out.
  • This treatment is for example the application of an oil or a passivation. The interest of this step appears in the rest of the text.
  • the assembly ES ' is covered by a volume VL' of a base material of the part to be manufactured, so that the volume VL forms an imprint of the assembly ES.
  • the base material is amorphous metal, interesting for its mechanical properties.
  • the base material is a polymer. In both cases, a block of amorphous or partially amorphous metal or polymer is pressed on the assembly ES 'at a temperature at which it has a pasty consistency, which allows it to deform to fit the shapes of the set ES ', and in particular that of the MT pattern.
  • the base material is any other metal, for example nickel, gold, etc., and the coating is made by galvanic growth of said metal.
  • the volume VL 'of base material has a portion EH' of a shape corresponding to the imprint of the pattern MT, as well as a narrow portion BA ' corresponding to the filling of the space between the lateral ends EL 'of the metal layer CM'.
  • the intermediate layer CT and the metal layer CM' are separated from the substrate SB.
  • the SB substrate is for example immersed in a selective acid bath in which it is dissolved.
  • the separation is carried out by force demolding. Having previously carried out a surface treatment of the assembly ES 'then makes it easier to demold.
  • the intermediate layer CT is dissolved.
  • the volume VL 'of base material then has a raised embossing element EH' of shape corresponding to the imprint of the MT pattern, and an upper face SF 'covered with the metal layer CM'.
  • the metal layer CM ' extends on either side of the narrow portion BA, matching the curved shape of said narrow portion BA. Only a part of the lower face FF of the covering element EH 'is in contact with the metal layer CM', contrary to what is the case in the first embodiment.
  • the first and second embodiments therefore make it possible to manufacture a two-color PC, PC 'piece comprising a raised element EH, EH', the color transition between the base material and the metal layer CM, CM 'being net.
  • the covering element EH, EH ' can not be separated from the rest of the PC room, PC' because it is an integral part of the volume VL, VL 'of base material.
  • the upper surface SP of the substrate SB and the bottom ST of the MT pattern may have previously undergone a surface machining to create a particular texture, for example a guilloche. In this case, by impression effect, the metal layer CM, CM 'and the head of the covering element EH, EH' also have this texture.

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  • Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • General Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
  • Electrochemistry (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • Materials Engineering (AREA)
  • Metallurgy (AREA)
  • Organic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Manufacturing Of Printed Wiring (AREA)
  • Adornments (AREA)
  • Laminated Bodies (AREA)
  • Electroplating Methods And Accessories (AREA)
EP16170378.0A 2016-05-19 2016-05-19 Herstellungsverfahren einer uhr, die mit einem relief-verkleidungselement ausgestattet ist Active EP3246766B1 (de)

Priority Applications (6)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP16170378.0A EP3246766B1 (de) 2016-05-19 2016-05-19 Herstellungsverfahren einer uhr, die mit einem relief-verkleidungselement ausgestattet ist
CH00646/16A CH712474A2 (fr) 2016-05-19 2016-05-19 Procédé de fabrication d'une pièce pour l'horlogerie dotée d'un élément d'habillage en relief.
JP2017089534A JP6310595B2 (ja) 2016-05-19 2017-04-28 隆起した外側要素を有する計時器を製造する方法
US15/591,138 US11027574B2 (en) 2016-05-19 2017-05-10 Process for the production of a timepiece provided with a raised external element
CN201710352353.1A CN107402513B (zh) 2016-05-19 2017-05-18 设置有凸起的外部元件的钟表的制造方法
HK18105942.8A HK1246413A1 (zh) 2016-05-19 2018-05-08 設置有凸起的外部元件的鐘錶的製造方法

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP16170378.0A EP3246766B1 (de) 2016-05-19 2016-05-19 Herstellungsverfahren einer uhr, die mit einem relief-verkleidungselement ausgestattet ist

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3246766A1 true EP3246766A1 (de) 2017-11-22
EP3246766B1 EP3246766B1 (de) 2020-01-29

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Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP16170378.0A Active EP3246766B1 (de) 2016-05-19 2016-05-19 Herstellungsverfahren einer uhr, die mit einem relief-verkleidungselement ausgestattet ist

Country Status (6)

Country Link
US (1) US11027574B2 (de)
EP (1) EP3246766B1 (de)
JP (1) JP6310595B2 (de)
CN (1) CN107402513B (de)
CH (1) CH712474A2 (de)
HK (1) HK1246413A1 (de)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP3951512A1 (de) * 2020-08-04 2022-02-09 Comadur S.A. Verfahren zur herstellung eines werkstücks mit mindestens einem metallisierten 3d-motiv

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP3674817A1 (de) * 2018-12-24 2020-07-01 Meco S.A. Herstellungsverfahren eines schmuckartikels

Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP2192454A1 (de) 2008-11-28 2010-06-02 The Swatch Group Research and Development Ltd. Verfahren zur dreidimensionalen Verzierung
EP2380864A1 (de) * 2010-04-23 2011-10-26 Omega SA Keramikelement mit mindestens einem Metalldekoreinsatz
EP2549341A1 (de) * 2011-07-20 2013-01-23 The Swatch Group Research and Development Ltd. Verfahren zum Einsetzen einer Verzierung in einem Uhrenverkleidungselement, mittels Galvanoplastik abgeschieden, und nach diesem Verfahren hergestelltes Verkleidungselement

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CN1899002A (zh) * 2003-12-26 2007-01-17 三井金属矿业株式会社 印刷电路板、其制造方法以及电路装置
DE102008034616A1 (de) * 2008-07-25 2010-02-04 Leonhard Kurz Stiftung & Co. Kg Prägefolie und deren Verwendung sowie Verfahren zur Herstellung von Strukturelementen aus Kupfer
EP2182096A1 (de) * 2008-10-28 2010-05-05 Nivarox-FAR S.A. Heterogenes LIGA-Verfahren
US8354729B2 (en) * 2010-12-27 2013-01-15 Industrial Technology Research Institute Gas sensor and manufacturing method thereof
EP2549340B1 (de) * 2011-07-20 2018-09-19 The Swatch Group Research and Development Ltd. Verfahren zum Befestigen eines Besatzes auf einem Uhrenverkleidungselement und nach diesem Verfahren hergestelltes Verkleidungselement
JP2015026771A (ja) * 2013-07-29 2015-02-05 株式会社フジクラ 回路基板の製造方法
JP6529516B2 (ja) * 2014-12-12 2019-06-12 シチズン時計株式会社 電鋳部品の製造方法
EP3035125B1 (de) * 2014-12-19 2018-01-10 Rolex Sa Herstellungsverfahren einer mehrstufigen Uhrenkomponente

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP2192454A1 (de) 2008-11-28 2010-06-02 The Swatch Group Research and Development Ltd. Verfahren zur dreidimensionalen Verzierung
EP2380864A1 (de) * 2010-04-23 2011-10-26 Omega SA Keramikelement mit mindestens einem Metalldekoreinsatz
EP2549341A1 (de) * 2011-07-20 2013-01-23 The Swatch Group Research and Development Ltd. Verfahren zum Einsetzen einer Verzierung in einem Uhrenverkleidungselement, mittels Galvanoplastik abgeschieden, und nach diesem Verfahren hergestelltes Verkleidungselement

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP3951512A1 (de) * 2020-08-04 2022-02-09 Comadur S.A. Verfahren zur herstellung eines werkstücks mit mindestens einem metallisierten 3d-motiv
CN114063423A (zh) * 2020-08-04 2022-02-18 柯马杜股份有限公司 制造包含至少一个三维金属化图案的部件的方法
US11857035B2 (en) 2020-08-04 2024-01-02 Comadur Sa Method for manufacturing a part comprising at least one three-dimensional metallised pattern

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
CN107402513A (zh) 2017-11-28
US20170334236A1 (en) 2017-11-23
HK1246413A1 (zh) 2018-09-07
JP2017207479A (ja) 2017-11-24
JP6310595B2 (ja) 2018-04-11
EP3246766B1 (de) 2020-01-29
CN107402513B (zh) 2020-04-10
US11027574B2 (en) 2021-06-08
CH712474A2 (fr) 2017-11-30

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