EP3179881B1 - Procédé de sélection de la couleur des produits cosmétiques - Google Patents

Procédé de sélection de la couleur des produits cosmétiques Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3179881B1
EP3179881B1 EP15747753.0A EP15747753A EP3179881B1 EP 3179881 B1 EP3179881 B1 EP 3179881B1 EP 15747753 A EP15747753 A EP 15747753A EP 3179881 B1 EP3179881 B1 EP 3179881B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
units
user
lightness
complexion
hue angle
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Active
Application number
EP15747753.0A
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German (de)
English (en)
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EP3179881A1 (fr
Inventor
Joanne Watson
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Boots Co PLC
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Boots Co PLC
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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45DHAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D44/00Other cosmetic or toiletry articles, e.g. for hairdressers' rooms
    • A45D44/005Other cosmetic or toiletry articles, e.g. for hairdressers' rooms for selecting or displaying personal cosmetic colours or hairstyle
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45DHAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D44/00Other cosmetic or toiletry articles, e.g. for hairdressers' rooms
    • A45D2044/007Devices for determining the condition of hair or skin or for selecting the appropriate cosmetic or hair treatment

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a method of selection of colour cosmetics that provides an objective assessment of colours that suit a given user.
  • the user is required to subjectively decide which colour cosmetics may suit their complexion.
  • the lighting in a shop will play an important role in the perception of colour, and in particular, whether a colour cosmetic will suit the user or not.
  • the light output can be different from different light sources, for example daylight light is slightly bluish in colour compared to an incandescent light bulb, leading to a slightly different perceived colour.
  • Users are often seen to 'test' a product on their hand, however the skin tone and texture of skin on a hand is not equivalent to complexion of the face, resulting in the user buying a product which may well have suited the skin tone of their hand, but not their face.
  • the foundation may change the tone of the skin to the extent that the colour cosmetic is no longer suitable.
  • a user may seek advice from an in-store colour cosmetic adviser.
  • the offer of an adviser may also be subjective.
  • the Applicants of the present invention have been primarily concerned with improving the objectivity of the colour cosmetic selection process.
  • the Applicants have found that not all colour cosmetics, such as lip shades for example, will suit every skin tone. For example, for users with a golden tone to their complexion, lip shades that are tonally more blue, such as magenta/fuchsia in colour, are less flattering to the complexion than lipstick shades that are more yellow, such as ruby or auburn toned shades.
  • a wide variety of lipstick shades will flatter skins that are darker in tone, such as for example, magenta, rose, raspberry, ruby, coral and auburn toned shades flatter these skin tones. However for those users whose skin is very pink in tone will find that yellow toned shades, such as auburn or coral lipstick shades, are less flattering. Alternatively, bluer-toned lipstick shades, for example rose, magenta, raspberry shades will be more flattering.
  • CIELAB (L*a*b*) is a three-dimensional colour space that can be used to describe all colours visible to the human eye.
  • a particular colour can be specified in CIELAB using three different parameters: L* denotes the lightness of the colour and runs from 0, representing black, and 100, representing white; a* denotes the red/green value of the colour; and b* denotes the yellow/blue value of the colour.
  • CIELAB uses Cartesian co-ordinates to describe a colour. Polar co-ordinates can also be used. This method is called CIELCH (L*C*h°) and is derived from CIELAB.
  • L* denotes lightness
  • C* denotes chroma
  • denotes hue angle.
  • the objective of the present work was to identify which shades of colour cosmetic was flattering to a given complexion shade.
  • the Applicant is able to measure shade of complexion using their marketed colour-measuring instrument, the 'Match Made' device, and will then be able to offer a client a pre-chosen range of colour cosmetics, for example lip shade, that will flatter either their complexion, or their complexion with foundation applied thereto. It has been possible to group complexion shades into 4 different areas of the colour space.
  • the first group are defined by a complexion lightness L* of 41-52 units, C* of 18-24 units and a hue angle h° of 54-60°. These complexions are darker in colour, an example of which may be an Afro-Caribbean origin and the like?.
  • a complexion tone in this range, then the user is matched with a lip shade colour cosmetic with hue angle h° 5-30°, lightness L* of 40-45units and chroma C* of 30-50.
  • the second group are defined by a complexion lightness L* of 58-70 units, C* of 20-25 units and a hue angle h° of greater than 63°.
  • These complexions have golden tones and examples of which may be people of Asian-origin
  • a lip shade colour cosmetic with hue angle h° 10-30°, lightness L* of 40-47 units and chroma C* 30-50.
  • the third group have a complexion lightness L* of 62-68 units, C* of 18-25 units and hue angle h° of less than 50°. These people have a complexion with a pinker undertone and examples of which are people of Caucasian origin with a ruddy complexion. When a user has a complexion tone in this range, the user is matched with a lip shade colour cosmetic with hue angle h° 5-20°, lightness L* 40-49 units and chroma C* 30-50.
  • the fourth group have a complexion lightness L* of greater than 52 units, C* of 20-25 units and hue angle of 56-63. These people have a range of complexions and examples of which are people of darker toned Caucasian or Hispanic origin. When a user has a complexion tone in this range, then the user is matched with a lip shade colour cosmetic with hue angle h° 5-25°, lightness L*40-49units and chroma C* 30-50.
  • Suitable lip colour products include lipsticks, lip pencils, lip gloss, lip liners and mixtures thereof.
  • Lip colour shades were developed by random choice based on a preference of the formulator. The present colour understanding has permitted the Applicant to be able to develop an organised, logical range of lip colour shades which permit a selection of shades which are suitable for each of the four complexion groups. The Applicant has produced a range of lip shades along fixed increments of L* C* h° within the area of CIELAB colour space where lipstick shades sit. By developing lip shades in this way the Applicant is able to ensure improved suitability of a lipshade for a given user, reducing the level of subjectivity in the lipshade choice.
  • Suitable lipstick products may be creamy and matt or glossy and shiny.
  • Preferably lipstick products are creamy and matt, as the Applicants have found that creamy shades enhance lipstick suitability.
  • a kit of colour cosmetics according to claim 2 is also provided including a colour cosmetic foundation and one or more suiting lip products.
  • the present invention is designed toward selecting lip colour cosmetics
  • the invention can be manipulated to understand and provide a similar objective method of selecting other colour cosmetics, such as blushers, bronzers, eye shadows, pencils and mascaras.

Landscapes

  • Cosmetics (AREA)
  • Spectrometry And Color Measurement (AREA)

Claims (2)

  1. Procédé de sélection d'une teinte de produits pour lèvres assortie/appropriée, qui comprend,
    1) l'évaluation complète de la teinte naturelle de l'utilisateur en utilisant un instrument de mesure de la couleur selon le système d'espaces couleurs CIELCH pour déterminer le teint de l'utilisateur en valeurs CIELCH,
    2) la sélection d'une gamme de produits cosmétiques de couleur pour lèvres en fonction de l'un des quatre groupes de teints, parmi lesquels, si :
    a) l'utilisateur a une luminosité de teint L* comprise entre 41 et 52 unités, C* compris entre 18 et 24 unités et un angle de teint h° compris entre 54 et 60°, mesurés selon le système CIELCH, alors l'utilisateur est associé avec un produit cosmétique de couleur pour lèvres ayant un angle de teint h° de 5 à 30°, une luminosité L* de 40 à 45 unités et une saturation C* comprise entre 30 et 50 unités.
    b) l'utilisateur a une luminosité de teint L* de 58 à 70 unités, C* de 20 à 25 unités et un angle de teint h° de plus de 63°, mesurés selon le système CIELCH, alors l'utilisateur est associé avec un produit cosmétique de couleur pour lèvres ayant un angle de teint h° de 10 à 30°, une luminosité de 40 à 47 unités et une saturation C* de 30 à 50 unités.
    c) l'utilisateur a une luminosité de teint L* de 62 à 68 unités, C* de 18 à 25 unités et un angle de teint de moins de 50°, mesurés selon le système CIELCH, alors l'utilisateur est associé avec un produit cosmétique de couleur pour lèvres ayant un angle de teint h° de 5 à 20°, une luminosité L* de 40 à 49 unités et une saturation C* de 30 à 50 unités.
    d) l'utilisateur a une luminosité de teint L* de plus de 52 unités, C* comprise entre 20 et 25 unités et un angle de teint h° de 56 à 63 unités, mesurés selon le système CIELCH, alors l'utilisateur est associé avec un produit cosmétique de couleur pour lèvres ayant un angle de teint h° de 5 à 25°, une luminosité L* de 40 à 49 unités et une saturation C* de 30 à 50 unités.
  2. Kit de produits cosmétiques de couleur comprenant un fond de teint avec une teinte de fond de teint sélectionnée parmi un groupe comprenant :
    a) une luminosité de teint L* de 41 à 52 unités, C* comprise entre 18 et 24 unités et un angle de teint h° de 54 à 60° mesurés selon le système CIELCH ;
    b) une luminosité de teint L* de 58 à 70 unités, C* comprise entre 20 et 25 unités et un angle de teint h° supérieur à 63° mesurés selon le système CIELCH ;
    c) une luminosité de teint L* de 62 à 68 unités, C* comprise entre 18 et 25 unités et un angle de teint h° inférieur à 50° mesurés selon le système CIELCH ; et
    d) une luminosité de teint L* de plus de 52 unités, C* comprise entre 20 et 25 unités et un angle de teint h° compris entre 56 et 63° mesurés selon le système CIELCH,
    le fond de teint étant combiné avec le produit cosmétique de couleur pour lèvres assorti, tel que, lorsque :
    i. Le fond de teint correspond au groupe a), alors l'utilisateur est associé avec un produit cosmétique de couleur pour lèvres ayant un angle de teint h° de 5 à 30°, une luminosité L* de 40 à 45 unités et une saturation C* de 30 à 50 unités.
    ii. Le fond de teint correspond au groupe b), alors l'utilisateur est associé avec un produit cosmétique de couleur pour lèvres ayant un angle de teint h° de 10 à 30°, une luminosité L* de 40 à 47 unités et une saturation C* de 30 à 50 unités.
    iii. Le fond de teint correspond au groupe c), alors l'utilisateur est associé avec un produit cosmétique de couleur pour lèvres ayant un angle de teint h° de 5 à 20°, une luminosité L* de 40 à 49 unités et une saturation C* de 30 à 50 unités.
    iv. Le fond de teint correspond au groupe d), alors l'utilisateur est associé avec un produit cosmétique de couleur pour lèvres ayant un angle de teint h° de 5 à 25°, une luminosité L* de 40 à 49 unités et une saturation C* de 30 à 50 unités.
EP15747753.0A 2014-07-23 2015-07-17 Procédé de sélection de la couleur des produits cosmétiques Active EP3179881B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
GBGB1413047.0A GB201413047D0 (en) 2014-07-23 2014-07-23 Method of selecting colour cosmetics
PCT/EP2015/025051 WO2016012104A1 (fr) 2014-07-23 2015-07-17 Procédé pour sélectionner la couleur de produits cosmétiques

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3179881A1 EP3179881A1 (fr) 2017-06-21
EP3179881B1 true EP3179881B1 (fr) 2018-09-12

Family

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Family Applications (1)

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EP15747753.0A Active EP3179881B1 (fr) 2014-07-23 2015-07-17 Procédé de sélection de la couleur des produits cosmétiques

Country Status (12)

Country Link
US (1) US20170208922A1 (fr)
EP (1) EP3179881B1 (fr)
JP (1) JP2017522124A (fr)
KR (1) KR101927684B1 (fr)
CN (1) CN106659286A (fr)
AU (2) AU2015294657A1 (fr)
CA (1) CA2954770A1 (fr)
CL (1) CL2017000135A1 (fr)
ES (1) ES2691925T3 (fr)
GB (1) GB201413047D0 (fr)
MX (1) MX362887B (fr)
WO (1) WO2016012104A1 (fr)

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
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US11064791B2 (en) * 2016-10-12 2021-07-20 La Bouche Rouge System for creating and providing a product of a certain color or texture chosen by a subject and product produced by such a system
CN109300164A (zh) * 2017-07-25 2019-02-01 丽宝大数据股份有限公司 皮肤基底色调判断方法与电子装置
KR102343251B1 (ko) * 2018-04-13 2021-12-27 샤넬 파르퓜 보트 의도된 사용자를 위한 화장품의 선택 방법
CN108324595A (zh) * 2018-04-18 2018-07-27 上海中翊日化有限公司 一种具备调色功能的油包水型粉底液组合形式及其使用和制备方法
WO2023245404A1 (fr) * 2022-06-21 2023-12-28 L'oreal Procédé de classification d'une couleur d'un produit de maquillage et outil pour l'assistance au développement de couleurs de produits de maquillage

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Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
MX362887B (es) 2019-02-22
AU2015294657A1 (en) 2017-02-02
GB201413047D0 (en) 2014-09-03
JP2017522124A (ja) 2017-08-10
CA2954770A1 (fr) 2016-01-28
AU2018236734A1 (en) 2018-10-18
AU2018236734B2 (en) 2020-09-03
KR101927684B1 (ko) 2018-12-12
EP3179881A1 (fr) 2017-06-21
US20170208922A1 (en) 2017-07-27
ES2691925T3 (es) 2018-11-29
CN106659286A (zh) 2017-05-10
CL2017000135A1 (es) 2017-07-28
KR20170032447A (ko) 2017-03-22
WO2016012104A1 (fr) 2016-01-28
MX2017000879A (es) 2017-05-04

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