Classifications

• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
  • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
  • D06M15/01—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with natural macromolecular compounds or derivatives thereof
  • D06M15/03—Polysaccharides or derivatives thereof
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
  • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
  • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
  • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
  • D02G3/40—Yarns in which fibres are united by adhesives; Impregnated yarns or threads
  • D02G3/404—Yarns or threads coated with polymeric solutions
  • D02G3/406—Yarns or threads coated with polymeric solutions where the polymeric solution is removable at a later stage, e.g. by washing
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
  • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
  • D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
  • D06M15/21—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • D06M15/327—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of unsaturated alcohols or esters thereof
  • D06M15/333—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of unsaturated alcohols or esters thereof of vinyl acetate; Polyvinylalcohol
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
  • D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
  • D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
  • D06M2101/10—Animal fibres
  • D06M2101/12—Keratin fibres or silk
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
  • D06M2200/00—Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
  • D06M2200/40—Reduced friction resistance, lubricant properties; Sizing compositions
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
  • D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
  • D10B2211/02—Wool
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
  • D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
  • D10B2211/04—Silk
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2321/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • D10B2321/06—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polymers of unsaturated alcohols, e.g. polyvinyl alcohol, or of their acetals or ketals

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a process of making a yarn having weavability features, namely a fine yarn made of natural animal fibers, vegetable fibers, non-water-soluble synthetic polymer fibers, man-made natural polymer fibers, continuous filaments of animal origin and/or discontinuous filaments of animal origin, to be used at a pure state or blended together .
• the present invention also relates to a process of weaving said yarn for making a fabric.
• weaving is generally used both for designating warp-and-weft weaving and knit-weaving .
• fine yarns is intended to designate yarns having a yarn count, as measured in Nm, of the order of 70 or more, the yarn increasing its fineness as its Nm number increases;
• - animal fibers are intended to cover fleece or hair fibers (such as wool, alpaca, vicuna, cashmere and others) ;
• continuous filaments of animal origin are intended to cover filaments obtained by reeling from whole cocoons (such as silk) ;
• - discontinuous filaments of animal origin are intended to cover filaments obtained by unravelling from defective cocoons (such as waste silk);
• - vegetable fibers are intended to cover all the fibers obtained from plants, shrubs, inflorescences, roots, leaves (such as cotton, flax, hemp, jute, coir, ramie, bamboo, and others);
• non-water-soluble synthetic polymer fibers are intended to cover, for example, polyamide, polyester, acrylic, polypropylene fibers, and others that are not soluble in aqueous solutions;
• - man-made natural fibers are intended to cover, for example, rayon viscose, modal, acetate, cupro, lyocell, and others.
• yarns have been known for more than ten years to be made from an intimate blend of valuable fibers and water-soluble synthetic fibers, such as polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) fibers, the resulting yarns having an increased tensile strength due to the presence of the water- soluble synthetic fibers.
• PVA polyvinyl alcohol
• Prior art document EP 2050845 teaches the provision of a later step in which yarns comprising an intimate blend of valuable fibers and water- soluble synthetic fibers are further doubled and twisted with yarns made of water-soluble fibers, namely PVA fibers.
• any increase or decrease of twist of the order of 200 turns per linear meter leads to the formation of very different fabrics, whose difference also appears from a visual examination of such fabrics;
• the present invention is based on the problem of conceiving and providing a process of making a fine yarn, made of natural animal fibers, vegetable fibers, non-water-soluble synthetic polymer fibers, man-made natural polymer fibers, continuous filaments of animal origin and/or discontinuous filaments of animal origin, to be used at a pure state or blended together, having improved weavability features, that fulfills the above needs, while avoiding the above mentioned prior art drawbacks.
• the invention also relates to a process of weaving said yarn for making a fabric, as defined in claim 14.
• the process of making a yarn having weavability features comprises the steps of:
• first fibers comprising natural animal fibers, vegetable fibers, non-water-soluble synthetic polymer fibers, man-made natural polymer fibers, continuous filaments of animal origin and/or discontinuous filaments of animal origin, to be used at pure state or blended together;
• the process is characterized in that it comprises a step of sizing said fine yarn using a sizing solution, to obtain a sized fine yarn having an increased tensile strength as compared with the tensile strength of the original fine yarn.
• the fine yarn count is of the order of 70 Nm or more.
• the fine yarn count is of the order of 90 Nm or more.
• said first fibers are substantially made of pure cashmere or chashmere and silk.
• the above mentioned water-soluble synthetic fibers essentially consist of polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) fibers.
• PVA polyvinyl alcohol
• the above mentioned step of sizing said fine yarn is carried out using a sizing solution comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof.
• the temperature of the sizing solution is maintained at a temperature of more than 60° and less than the boiling point, e.g. a temperature that ranges from 60°C to 90°C, more preferably a temperature of the order of 70°C.
• the sizing composition in use may comprise natural substances and derivatives thereof, such as :
• CMC carboxymethyl cellulose
• protein-based products (glue, gelatin, albumin) .
• a synthetic sizing solution comprising one or more of the following components :
• PVA polyvinyl alcohol
• Additives such as surfactants, solvents, antifoaming agents, etc., may be also added to the sizing formulation, according to the particular requirements to be met for each fine yarn type.
• the sizing solution is prepared by hot mixing its components, for optimized component mixing results.
• the temperature at which the sizing solution is prepared/mixed is more than 60° and is maintained below the boiling point of the solution, to prevent degradation of one or more components of the sizing solution due to boiling.
• the temperatures at which the components of the sizing solution are mixed range from 60°C to 92 °C, and preferably such temperatures are 70°C or more and less than 90°C.
• the sizing solution may also comprise both synthetic and natural substances and derivatives thereof.
• Polyvinyl alcohol is as follows:
• polyvinyl alcohol greatly increases the tensile strength of yarns, without causing the problems arising when doubling the fine yarn with a PVA yarn and dissolving the PVA yarn from the weave of the finished fabric.
• the sizing solution in use may advantageously comprise chitosan and/or derivatives thereof .
• Chitosan is a natural polymer derived from chitin, which is a protein contained in the exoskeleton of crustaceans, and is a nature-renewable material, since it is obtained from food industry by ⁇ products .
• a reinforcement product based on chitosan and/or derivatives thereof, used as a sizing agent for the fibers and/or filaments, has better sizing properties than many other natural substances. For instance, the addition of 5 to 15% carboxymethyl chitosan concentrations in the sizing step has provided increases in toughness of cotton fabrics by up to 55%.
• the above described sizing solution containing chitosan comprises:
• chitosan and/or derivatives thereof preferably low molecular weight chitosan, more preferably chitosan having a molecular weight of 150,000 Da, degree of deacetylation 75-85%; viscosity 20-200 cps at ambient temperature and at a concentration range of 0.5-10% w/v, preferably 0.8-3% w/v, more preferably 1% w/v;
• the above mentioned acid aqueous solution preferably comprises acetic acid at a concentration of 1.5-3.8% v/v, preferably at a concentration of 1.8-2.22% v/v, more preferably at a concentration of 2% v/v.
• a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to the yarn fibers
• a bath ratio ranging from 1-7 to 1-35, more preferably a bath ratio ranging from 1-10 to 1-30, most preferably a bath ratio ranging from 1-16 to 1-24.
• such process includes a step of crosslinking at least part of the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of the sizing solution applied to the fibers of said fine yarn upon sizing, to obtain a crosslinked reinforcement polymer, permanently anchored to the fibers of the fine yarn.
• Such crosslinking of at least part of the chitosan and/or derivatives thereofof the sizing solution applied to the fibers of said fine yarn is performed by overcoming a technical prejudice existing in the field of yarns and weaving: i.e. that the chitosan polymer may only be used to impart a temporary effect to the fibers and/or filaments of the yarns, which is designed to disappear after a first washing step or in other finishing steps.
• crosslinking of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof on the fibers of the fine yarn ensures permanent adhesion of the chitosan-derived polymer and its components, such that the beneficial effects of chitosan may be maintained with time.
• Crosslinking of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof allows the fibers of the fine yarn to be imparted a considerable physical-mechanical resistance, a long-lasting sanitization effect, resisting many repeated washes with hot and/or soapy water, as well as a considerable improvement in the finish affinity, e.g. the dye affinity, of the fibers of the fine yarn.
• crosslinking chitosan and/or its derivatives applied to the fibers of the fine yarn is used before weaving the fine yarn, against the prejudice existing in the field of yarns and weaving, particularly for valuable yarns/fabrics such as cashmere or silk, that crosslinking of chitosan would lead to an undesired excessive structural stiffening of the yarns, which would make them no longer suitable for making soft, valuable fabrics.
• the fibers and filaments of the treated yarns are coated with a thin layer of reinforcement product, which may be at least partially crosslinked and, if needed, partially removed in a partial and calibrated manner. Otherwise, the portion of the crosslinked chitosan and/or derivatives thereof that remains on the fibers of the fine yarn , maintains its beneficial effects, as mentioned above, due to the presence of chitosan.
• the step of crosslinking at least part of the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of the sizing solution applied to the fibers of the fine yarn is preceded by a step of drying the fibers of the fine yarn and the sizing solution applied thereto, to assist crosslinking of chitosan ' and/or derivatives thereof.
• such crosslinking of the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of the sizing solution applied to the fibers of the fine yarn is carried out by a step of ultraviolet exposure of the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of the sizing solution applied to the fibers of the fine yarn.
• the above-mentioned step of partial and calibrated removal of the crosslinked reinforcement polymer from the fibers of the fine yarn is carried out such that the amount left on the fibers of the fine yarn of said crosslinked reinforcement polymer derived from chitosan and/or chitosan derivatives is 0.1-9 % w/w based on the dry weight of the. fibers.
• the above mentioned step of partial and calibrated removal of the crosslinked reinforcement polymer from the fibers of the fine yarn is carried out using a hydrolyzing desizing solution, e.g. by immersion in such hydrolyzing desizing solution.
• This desizing step is carried out using a hydrolyzing desizing solution, e.g. by immersion in such hydrolyzing desizing solution.
• - provides enzymatic desizing, preferably using protease, amylase and/or cellulase enzymes or
• hydrolyzing acids preferably hydrochloric and/or sulfhydric acid diluted to a concentration of 3-10% v/v, more preferably 5-7% v/v.
• composition examples may be considered as possible examples of sizing solutions comprising chitosan:
• compositions like those of Examples 1 and 2 are particularly suitable for cashmere fibers, wools and the like, whereas the composition of Example 3 is more suitable for fibers such as cotton and the like.
• the sizing solution may be selected according to the particular fibers of the fine yarn to be sized.
• a sizing solution comprising both chitosan and polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) may be used.
• the amount of first fibers may be other than the above mentioned 50%, and may range from 30% to 80% based on the total fibers of the fine yarn, preferably from 35% to 70% based on the total fibers of the fine yarn.
• two- three- or more-ply yarns may be provided, such as: a 2/90 Nm fine yarn (i.e. a two-ply fine yarn with a yarn count of 90 Nm 90) or a 3/90 Nm fine yarn (i.e. a three-ply fine yarn with a yarn count of 90 Nm) .
• the process of making a fabric of fine yarns comprises the following steps: - a weaving step, in which the above described sized fine yarns are woven and
• the intimately blended and sized fine yarns may also be of different types.
• the above mentioned process of making a fabric preferably comprises a step of desizing the fibers of said fabric for removing the sizing solution applied to the fibers of the sized fine yarns.
• This desizing step may be carried out before, after or during the possible partial and calibrated removal of part of the crosslinked chitosan applied to the fibers of the fine yarns after possible crosslinking, provided that part of it is required to be removed.
• the dissolution of the polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) provided in intimate blend in the fine yarns of the fabric may be conveniently obtained by immersing the fabric in a slightly acidic water-soluble solution (with indicative pH values ranging from 4 to about 6) at a suitable temperature, indicatively 30°C or more.
• the temperature of the bath shall range from 50°C to 70° centigrade, considering that:
• the above- mentioned first fibers of the fabric may be degraded.
• the intimately blended fine yarn By carrying out the sizing step on the intimately blended fine yarn, such yarn may be woven without being exposed to breakage, and the intimately blended fine yarn does not need to be doubled with another PVA yarn, which would be highly undesirable, as mentioned above.
• the presence of chitosan on the fibers imparts dimensional stability and pilling resistance to the fabric fibers, such that no anti-pilling or dimensional change-preventing processes are required to be carried out on the fibers of the resulting fabrics, which will avoid the need for treatment and/or finishing processes that involve cost increases and use harmful substances, requiring disposal of the processing residues as special waste.

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• Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
• Textile Engineering (AREA)
• Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
• Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
• Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
• Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
• Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

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• 2013
  • 2013-12-13 IT IT002090A patent/ITMI20132090A1/it unknown
• 2014
  • 2014-12-12 WO PCT/IB2014/066866 patent/WO2015087306A1/en active Application Filing
  • 2014-12-12 EP EP14830647.5A patent/EP3080350A1/de not_active Withdrawn

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