EP2748360B1 - Gestrick oder gestrickteil sowie entsprechendes strickverfahren - Google Patents

Gestrick oder gestrickteil sowie entsprechendes strickverfahren Download PDF

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Publication number
EP2748360B1
EP2748360B1 EP12761714.0A EP12761714A EP2748360B1 EP 2748360 B1 EP2748360 B1 EP 2748360B1 EP 12761714 A EP12761714 A EP 12761714A EP 2748360 B1 EP2748360 B1 EP 2748360B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
needle
knitted fabric
stitches
stitch
needle bed
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EP12761714.0A
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English (en)
French (fr)
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EP2748360A2 (de
Inventor
Luciano BENETTON
Giuliana Benetton
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Benetton Group SRL
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Benetton Group SRL
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/246—Upper torso garments, e.g. sweaters, shirts, leotards
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/03—Shape features
    • D10B2403/033—Three dimensional fabric, e.g. forming or comprising cavities in or protrusions from the basic planar configuration, or deviations from the cylindrical shape as generally imposed by the fabric forming process

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a knitwear item, or a portion thereof, and to a method of fabricating it at industrial level.
  • Some garments after being put one, have creases or smears at the breast point and/or underarm region, with considerable reduction of their aesthetic value.
  • the knitted fabric is often subject to undesirable stretching at the breast point, due to the structural tensions to which the knitted fabric is subjected with use. Naturally, these deformations cause aesthetic deterioration of the knitwear garment, often until its replacement becomes necessary.
  • knitwear garments available on the market are shaped in such a manner as to adhere to the user's body but are not very comfortable to wear and somewhat unsuitable for larger physiques, above all as regards the bust and the breasts.
  • Patent documents DE2410368A1 and US3389580 describe known methods for manufacturing knitwear items.
  • DE 2410368 A1 discloses a knitwear item and a method of making same according to the preamble of independent claims 1 and 6.
  • the present invention intends to meet the needs indicated above by providing a knitwear item, or a portion thereof, according to claim 1 and the related dependent claims, set forth below.
  • the knitwear item, or a portion thereof, according to the invention comprises a pectoral region, configured to be worn at the user's chest, in which there are defined a central zone and two side zones that are substantially symmetric with respect to said central zone.
  • Each of the aforesaid side zones comprises a lower portion and an upper portion, having knitted fabric with modified interlacing with respect to the rest of the item, or a portion thereof.
  • the knitted fabric of the lower portion of each of said side zones comprises a plurality of stitches that are doubled and set in adjacent position at a series of rows in the direction toward said upper portion, so as to obtain a widening of the same knitted fabric.
  • the knitted fabric of the upper portion of each of said side zones comprises a plurality of stitches set overlapped at a series of rows, in the distal direction from said lower portion, so as to obtain a narrowing of the same knitted fabric.
  • the present invention relates to a method of fabricating, at industrial level, the aforesaid knitwear item, or a portion thereof, according to claim 6 and the related dependent claims, set forth below.
  • the method provides for the use of a two needle bed knitting apparatus, preferably rectilinear, comprising a first needle bed and a second needle bed for fabricating the knitted fabric.
  • the knitted fabric of the lower portion of each of said side zones comprises a plurality of stitches that are doubled and set in adjacent position at a series of rows in the direction toward said upper portion, so as to obtain a widening of the knitted fabric.
  • the knitted fabric of the upper portion of each of said side zones comprises a plurality of stitches set overlapped at a series of rows, in the distal direction from said lower portion, so as to obtain a narrowing of the knitted fabric.
  • the present invention relates to a knitwear item 1, or a portion thereof.
  • the side zones 21 and 22 of the pectoral region 2 also comprise a mid portion 223, 233, positioned substantially at the user's breast point, represented schematically by the axis 200 of Fig. 2 .
  • each side zone 22, 23 is positioned symmetrically with respect to the mid portions 223, 233, according to the direction S 1.
  • the knitted fabric thereof advantageously comprises a series of rows RC with width corresponding to the width of the last row RL of the knitted fabric of the lower portion 221, 231 ( Fig. 3 ).
  • the number of rows RC, overlapped according to a distal direction from lower portion 221, 231 (coincident with the direction S1), can vary, according to needs.
  • each side zone 22, 23 are characterised by the fact that is has a knitted fabric with modified interlacing with respect to the rest of the knitwear item 1, in particular to the central zone 21 of the pectoral region 2 or other regions of the knitwear item 1 ( Fig. 3 ).
  • the knitted fabric of the lower portion 221, 231 comprises a plurality of stitches A1, Y, X1, Y1 that are doubled and set in adjacent position at a series of rows R1, R2, R1', R2' in the direction of the upper portion 222, 232 (also coincident with the direction S1).
  • interlacing of the knitted fabric of the lower portion 221, 231 is advantageously modified so that new columns of stitches originate from the points in which formation of the doubled stitches occurs to be developed in the subsequent rows, overlapped according to the direction S 1.
  • Insertion of a new column of stitches determines setting (translation) of the columns of subsequent stitches, according to the direction D1.
  • the positioning of points in which to modify the interlacing of the knitted fabric to obtain the doubled stitches can be chosen according to needs.
  • the knitted fabric of the lower portion 221, 231 is fabricated according to predefined sequences of rows, repeated according to the direction S1.
  • the knitted fabric of the lower portion 221, 231 comprises one or more pairs T1, T2 of rows overlapped according to the direction S1 ( Fig.4 ).
  • Each of the pairs of rows T1, T2 also comprises a second row R2, R2' overlapped with row R1, R1' in the direction S1 and comprising a second pair of stitches (X1, Y1 in the row R2) that are doubled and set in adjacent position, according to the direction D1.
  • the knitted fabric of the lower portion 221, 231 comprises a first pair T1 of rows, a second pair T2 of rows and one or more mid rows RI between the first pair T1 and the second pair T2, overlapped according to the direction S1.
  • the mid rows RI have a width corresponding to the second row R2 of the first pair T1 and their number can vary according to needs.
  • one or more third rows can be inserted between the rows R1, R1' and R2, R2'.
  • Each of the aforesaid third rows preferably has a width corresponding to that of the row R1, R1'.
  • the knitted fabric of the upper portion 222, 232 comprises a plurality of stitches A2, B, B1, C set overlapped at a series of rows R4 in the direction S1 ( Fig. 5 ).
  • the overlapping of several stitches in the rows R4 determines a reduction of the extension thereof and therefore a narrowing of the knitted fabric.
  • Interlacing of the knitted fabric of the upper portion 222, 232 is in practice modified so as to eliminate columns of stitches at points in which the stitches are set overlapped. Elimination of a column of stitches determines setting (translation) of the preceding columns of stitches, according to the direction D2.
  • Narrowing of the knitted fabric can thus be obtained at points of the knitted fabric that are distant from the side edges of the upper portion 222, 232.
  • Positioning of the points in which to modify interlacing of the knitted fabric of the upper portion 222, 232 can be chosen according to needs.
  • the knitted fabric of the upper portion 222, 232 is fabricated according to predefined sequences of rows.
  • the knitted fabric of the upper portion 222, 232 comprises at least one sequence of rows constituted by a fourth row R4, comprising two third pairs A2, B and B1, C of stitches set overlapped, and one or more fifth rows R5 in the direction S1, with width corresponding to the width of the fourth row R4.
  • the present invention relates to a method of fabricating, at industrial level, the knitwear item, or a part thereof.
  • the method provides for the use of a two needle bed knitting apparatus, preferably of rectilinear type.
  • the aforesaid knitting apparatus comprises a first needle bed F1 and a second needle bed F2.
  • the knitted fabric could also be knitted with a purl knitting process.
  • the first needle bed F1 and the second needle bed F2 correspond respectively to the rear and front needle bed of the knitting apparatus.
  • the needles of the needle beds F1 and F2 are needles of the latch or compound type and are operatively positioned so as to form pairs of opposite needles capable of cooperating with each other to braid the yarn and manipulate the stitches of the knitted fabric.
  • the method comprises the steps 101 and 102 of fabricating, for each of said side zones 22, 23, the lower portion 221, 231 and the upper portion 222, 232, which are realized as described above.
  • the method also comprises a step (not illustrated) of fabricating, for each of the side zones 22, 23, the mid portion 223, 233.
  • the knitted fabric of the mid portion 223, 233 advantageously comprises a series of consecutive rows RC, overlapped in the direction S1, with width corresponding to the width of the last row (RL in Fig. 3 ) of the knitted fabric of the lower portion 221, 231.
  • the portions 221, 231 and 222, 232 are advantageously fabricated simultaneously by the knitting apparatus, according to the method that will be described, during fabrication of the knitwear item 1.
  • the step 101 of fabricating the lower portion 221, 231 comprises the step i) of fabricating a first row R1 having a plurality of N stitches that occupy respective needle positions at the first needle bed F1.
  • the needles of the needle bed F1 are occupied by the stitches of the row R1 while the needles of the needle bed F2 are free.
  • the row R1, just as the first stitch A, and the related needle position P1 of this latter, can be selected according to the fabrication needs of the knitwear item 1.
  • the step 101 then provides for the step iv) of performing the doubling of the stitch A in a first doubled stitch A1 and in a second doubled stitch Y.
  • the step 101 provides for the step v) of moving the second stitches Z in the needle bed F2.
  • the stitches Z are positioned so as to occupy, at the needle bed F2, the adjacent positions P Z that follow the needle position P1, according to the direction D1.
  • the stitches Z are moved so as to occupy, in the needle bed F2, the same needle positions that they occupied at the needle bed F1.
  • the step 101 provides for the step vi) of moving in the needle bed F1 the doubled stitch Y and the subsequent stitches Z, by performing a first translation K1 of one needle position, according to the direction D1 (to the right).
  • the stitches Y and Z, thus moved, are positioned in the needle bed F1 so as to occupy the adjacent needle positions P Z that follow the needle position P1, in the direction D1.
  • the row R1 comprises N+1 stitches given that, at the needle position P Z immediately following the needle position P1, according to the direction D1, the doubled stitch Y has been inserted.
  • the knitted fabric of the lower portion 231 preferably comprises pairs T1, T2 of rows, at of each of which consecutive rows R1 and R2 comprise pairs of stitches that are doubled and set in adjacent positions.
  • the step 101 comprises the step vii) of fabricating, according to the direction S1, a second row R2 which has the same width as the row R1, after the completion of the steps i)-vi) of the step 101.
  • the row R2 initially comprises a plurality of N+1 stitches that occupy respective needle positions at the needle bed F1.
  • the needles of the needle bed F1 are therefore occupied by the stitches of the row R2 while the needles of the needle bed F2 are free.
  • the step 101 provides for the step viii) of selecting a third stitch X in the row R2, which occupies, at the needle bed F1, a second reference needle position P2.
  • the needle position P2 can also be selected according to the fabrication needs of the knitwear item 1.
  • the step 101 provides for the step ix) of selecting fourth stitches Z1 in the row R2.
  • the step 101 provides for the step x) of performing the doubling of the stitch X in a third doubled stitch X1 and in a fourth doubled stitch Y1.
  • the doubled stitch X1 is positioned so as to occupy the needle position P2, at the needle bed F1 while the doubled stitch Y1 is moved in the needle bed F2 so as to occupy the same needle position P2.
  • the step 101 then comprises the step xii) of moving, in the needle bed F1, the fourth doubled stitch Y1 and the fourth stitches Z1, by performing a second translation K2 of one needle position in direction D1 (to the right).
  • the stitches Y1 and Z1 are thus positioned so as to occupy, at the needle bed F1, the adjacent needle positions P Z1 that follow the needle position P2, according to the direction D1.
  • the stitch Y1 will occupy the needle position immediately to the right of the needle position P2 while the stitches Z1 will be decreased to the right of a needle position, with respect to the start of the sequence of steps vii)-xii).
  • the row R2 comprises N+2 stitches, as the doubled stitch Y1 has been inserted, at the needle position P Z1 immediately following the needle position P2, according to the direction D1.
  • each sequence of steps i)-xii) enables the fabrication of a pair T1, T2 of rows comprising stitches that are doubled and set in adjacent positions.
  • the step 101 preferably provides for the step xiii) (not illustrated) of fabricating one or more mid rows RI, according to the direction S1 ( figure 4 ).
  • the mid rows RI has a width corresponding to the width (N+2 stitches) of the row R2, after the completion of the preceding steps vii)-xii).
  • steps i)-xiii) of the step 101 can advantageously be repeated one or more times, until the completion of the lower portion 231.
  • new reference positions P1 and P2 can be made, for example, as a function of the type of decorative pattern to be fabricated in the lower portion 231.
  • the translations K1 and K2, sustained by the stitches of the knitted fabric are preferably of one needle position, according to the direction D1 (to the right).
  • steps i)-xiii), illustrated above, can be performed in a different order to that indicated. Some steps can also be performed simultaneously, i.e. with a same operation of the needles of the knitting apparatus, according to needs.
  • the step 102 of fabricating the upper portion 232 comprises the step i) of fabricating a fourth row R4 having a plurality of M stitches that occupy corresponding needle positions at the needle bed F1.
  • the needles of the needle bed F1 are occupied by the stitches of the row R4 while the needles of the needle bed F2 are free.
  • step 102 then provides for the following steps II)-V), respectively of:
  • the reference positions P3 and P4 can be selected according to the fabrication needs of the knitwear item 1.
  • the step 102 comprises the step VI) of moving in the needle bed F2 the stitches A2, B1 and B. These stitches are positioned so as to occupy, at the needle bed F2, respectively the needle position P3, the needle position P4 and the adjacent needle positions P B comprised between the needle positions P3 and P4.
  • the step 102 comprises the step VII) of moving in the needle bed F1 the stitches B and B1, performing a third translation K3 of one needle position in the direction D2 (to the left).
  • a stitch B will occupy the needle position P3 while the stitch B1, which previously occupied the needle position P4, occupies, following the aforesaid translation K3, a fifth reference needle position P5, at the needle bed F1.
  • the needle positions of the needle bed F1 are not all occupied.
  • the needle position P4 remains free due to the translation K3 of the stitches B and B1, according to the direction D2.
  • the step 102 comprises the step VIII) of once again moving the stitch B1 so that it occupies the needle position P5, at the needle bed F2.
  • the step 102 comprises the step IX) of moving the stitches C in the needle bed F2.
  • the stitches C are positioned so as to occupy, in the needle bed F2, the same adjacent needle positions P C that precede the needle position P4, according to the direction D2.
  • the step 102 comprises the step X) of moving the stitches C in the needle bed F1, performing a fourth translation K4 of two needle positions, in the direction D2.
  • the stitches C are thus positioned so as to occupy, at the needle bed F1, the needle position P5 and the adjacent needle positions that precede it, according to the direction D2, including the needle position P4.
  • the step 102 also provides for the step XII) of moving in the needle bed F1 the stitch B1, so that this latter is positioned overlapped with the stitch C that occupies the reference needle position P5, at the needle bed F1.
  • steps I)-XII enable narrowing of the knitted fabric of the upper portion 222, 232, at the points P3 and P5 of the row R4.
  • the row R4 comprises M-2 stitches, positioned at the needle bed F1.
  • the step 101 preferably provides for the step XIII), not illustrated, of fabricating one or more fifth rows R5, according to the direction S1 ( figure 5 ).
  • the rows R5 have a width corresponding to the width (M-2 stitches) of the row R4, after the completion of the previous steps I)-XII), and their number can vary, according to the fabrication needs of the knitwear item 1.
  • steps I)-XIII) of the step 102 can advantageously be repeated one or more times, until the completion of the upper portion 232.
  • new reference positions P3, P4 and P5 at which to modify interlacing of the knitted fabric can be taken into consideration.
  • the selection of the new reference positions P3, P4 and P5, can be made, for example, as a function of the type of decorative pattern to be fabricated in the upper portion 232.
  • steps I)-XIII), illustrated above, can be performed in different order to that indicated. Some steps can also be performed simultaneously, according to needs.
  • the knitwear item 1 has, at specific portions of the pectoral region 2, a knitted fabric with modified interlacing so as to better adapt to variations in the depth of the user's bust, typical of the pectoral region.
  • the knitwear item 1 thus ensures a high level of fit at the pectoral region, while simultaneously being very comfortable for the user.
  • the knitwear item 1 can be fabricated by means of a fabrication method easily implemented at industrial level, by means of knitting apparatus of known type.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Prostheses (AREA)
  • Telephone Function (AREA)
  • Adornments (AREA)

Claims (12)

  1. Maschenware (1) oder ein Teil davon, mit einem Brustbereich (2), der so konfiguriert ist, dass er an der Brust des Benutzers getragen wird, wobei der Brustbereich eine zentrale Zone (21) und zwei Seitenzonen (22, 23) umfasst, die in Bezug auf die zentrale Zone im Wesentlichen symmetrisch sind, wobei jede der Seitenzonen einen unteren Abschnitt (221, 231) und einen oberen Abschnitt (222, 232), mit einem Gestrick mit modifizierter Verflechtung in Bezug auf den Rest der Maschenware, dadurch gekennzeichnet dass:
    - das Gestrick des unteren Teils eine Vielzahl von Maschen (A1, Y, X1, Y1) aufweist, die verdoppelt und in einer Serie von Reihen (R1, R2, R1', R2') gelegt sind in der Richtung (S1) des oberen Teils, um so eine Verbreiterung Gestrickes zu erreichen;
    - das Gestrick des oberen Teils eine Vielzahl von Maschen (A2, B, B1, C) umfasst, die in einer Serie von Reihen (R4) in der distalen Richtung (S1) von dem unteren Abschnitt überlappend gelegt sind, um so eine Verengung zu des Gestricks zu erreichen.
  2. Maschenware oder ein Teil davon nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass jede der Seitenzonen einen mittleren Abschnitt (223, 233) umfasst, der zwischen dem unteren Abschnitt und dem oberen Abschnitt gelegt ist, wobei das Gestrick des mittleren Teils eine Serie von Reihen (RC) in der distalen Richtung (S1) von dem unteren Abschnitt umfasst, mit einer Breite, die der Breite der letzten Reihe (RL) des Gestricks des unteren Teils entspricht.
  3. Maschenware oder ein Teil davon nach einem oder mehreren der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das Gestrick des unteren Teils (221, 231) mindestens ein Paar (T1, T2) von Reihen aufweist, die gebildet werden durch:
    - eine erste Reihe (R1, R1') mit einer Vielzahl von Maschen (A1, Y), die verdoppelt und in angrenzender Position gelegt sind;
    - eine zweite Reihe (R2, R2'), die mit der ersten Reihe in der Richtung (S1) des oberen Abschnitts überlappt und eine Vielzahl von Maschen (X1, Y1) umfasst, die verdoppelt und in benachbarter Position gelegt sind.
  4. Maschenware oder ein Teil davon nach Anspruch 3, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das gestrickte Gewebe des unteren Teils eine Folge von Reihen umfasst, die umfassen:
    - ein erstes Paar (T1) von Reihen, die die erste und die zweite Reihe (R1, R2) umfassen;
    - ein zweites Paar (T2) von Reihen, die die erste und die zweite Reihe (R1', R2') umfassen;
    - eine Serie von mittleren Zeilen (R1), die das erste Paar (T1) von Zeilen von dem zweiten Paar (T2) von Zeilen in der Richtung (S1) des oberen Abschnitts trennt, wobei die mittleren Zeilen (RI) eine Breite aufweisen, Breite der zweiten Reihe (R2) des ersten Paares (T1) von Reihen.
  5. Maschenware oder ein Teil davon nach einem oder mehreren der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das Gestrick des oberen Teils (222, 232) eine Folge von Reihen umfasst, die umfasst:
    - eine vierte Reihe (R4) mit einer Vielzahl von überlappend gelegten Maschen (A2, B, B1, C);
    - eine oder mehrere fünfte Reihen (R5), die mit der vierten Reihe in der distalen Richtung (S1) von dem unteren Abschnitt überlappt sind, mit einer Breite, die der Breite der vierten Reihe entspricht.
  6. Verfahren zum Herstellen eine Maschenware oder eines Teils davon mittels einer zwei Nadel-Flachstrickmaschine, umfassend ein erstes Nadelbett (F1) und ein zweites Nadelbett (F2), wobei die Maschenware einen Brustbereich (2) umfasst, der so konfiguriert ist, dass er an der Brust des Benutzers getragen wird, wobei der Brustbereich eine zentrale Zone (21) und zwei Seitenzonen (22, 23) umfasst, die in Bezug auf die zentrale Zone im Wesentlichen symmetrisch sind, wobei das Verfahren die Schritte (101, 102) umfasst für jede der Seitenzonen einen unteren Abschnitt (221, 231) und einen oberen Abschnitt (222, 232) herzustellen, mit einem Gestrick mit modifizierter Verflechtung in Bezug auf den Rest der Maschenware, dadurch gekennzeichnet dass
    - das Gestrick des unteren Teils eine Vielzahl von Maschen (A1, Y, X1, Y1) aufweist, die verdoppelt und in einer Serie von Reihen (R1, R2) gelegt sind in der Richtung ( S1) des oberen Teils, um so eine Verbreiterung Gestrickes zu erreichen;
    - das Gestrick des oberen Teils eine Vielzahl von Maschen (A2, B, B1, C) umfasst, die in einer Serie von Reihen (R4) in der distalen Richtung (S1) von dem unteren Abschnitt überlappend gelegt sind, um so eine Verengung zu des Gestricks zu erreichen.
  7. Verfahren nach Anspruch 6, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es den Schritt umfasst, für jede der Seitenzonen (22, 23) einen mittleren Abschnitt (223, 233) herzustellen, der zwischen dem unteren Teil und dem oberen Teil angeordnet ist, wobei das Gestrick des mittleren Abschnitt eine Reihe von Reihen (RC) in der distalen Richtung (S1) von dem unteren Abschnitt mit einer Breite umfasst, die der Breite der letzten Reihe (RL) des Gestrickes des unteren Teils entspricht.
  8. Verfahren nach einem oder mehreren der Ansprüche 6 bis 7, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Schritt (101) des Herstellens des unteren Teils (221, 231) die folgenden Schritte umfasst:
    i) Herstellen einer ersten Reihe (R1) mit einer Vielzahl von Maschen, die entsprechende Nadelpositionen an dem ersten Nadelbett (F1) einnehmen;
    ii) Auswählen einer ersten Masche (A) in der ersten Reihe (R1), wobei die erste Masche an dem ersten Nadelbett (F1) eine erste Referenznadelposition (P1) einnimmt;
    iii) Auswählen von zweiten Maschen (Z) in der ersten Reihe (R1), wobei die zweiten Maschen an dem ersten Nadelbett (F1) die benachbarten Nadelpositionen (Pz) einnehmen, die der ersten Referenznadelposition (P1) folgen, in der Aufweitrichtung (D1) des Gestricks;
    iv) Durchführen der Verdopplung der ersten Masche (A) in einer ersten doppelten Masche (A1) und in einer zweiten doppelten Masche (Y), wobei der erste doppelte Masche (A1) die erste Referenznadelposition (P1) an dem ersten Nadelbett einnimmt (F1), wobei die zweite doppelte Masche in dem zweiten Nadelbett (F2) bewegt wird, um die erste Referenznadelposition (P1) an dem zweiten Nadelbett (F2) zu besetzen;
    v) Bewegen der zweiten Maschen (Z) in dem zweiten Nadelbett (F2), um an dem zweiten Nadelbett (F2) die benachbarten Nadelpositionen (Pz) zu besetzen, die der ersten Referenznadelposition (P1) folgen, in der Aufweitrichtung (D1) des Gestricks;
    vi) Bewegen der zweiten doppelten Masche (A2) und der zweiten Maschen (Z) in dem ersten Nadelbett (F1) durch Ausführen einer ersten Translation (K1) einer Nadelposition in der Aufweitrichtung (D1) des Gestricks, um an dem ersten Nadelbett (F1) die benachbarten Nadelpositionen (PZ), die der ersten Referenznadelposition (P1) folgen, in der Aufweitrichtung (D1) des Gestricks zu besetzen.
  9. Verfahren nach Anspruch 8, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Schritt (101) der Herstellung des unteren Teils (221, 231) die folgenden weiteren Schritte umfasst:
    vii) Herstellen einer zweiten Reihe (R2), die mit der ersten Reihe in der Richtung (S1) des oberen Abschnitts überlappt ist, wobei die zweite Reihe eine Breite aufweist, die der Breite der ersten Reihe (R1) entspricht nach Beendigung der Schritte i)-vi), und umfassend eine Vielzahl von Maschen, die entsprechende Nadelpositionen an dem ersten Nadelbett (F1) einnehmen;
    viii) Auswählen einer dritten Masche (X) in der zweiten Reihe (R2), wobei die dritte Masche an dem ersten Nadelbett (F1) eine zweite Referenznadelposition (P2) einnimmt;
    ix) Auswählen von vierten Maschen (Z1) in der zweiten Reihe (R2), wobei die vierten Maschen an dem ersten Nadelbett (F1) die benachbarte Nadelpositionen (PZ1) einnehmen, die der zweiten Referenznadelposition (P2) folgen in Aufweitrichtung (D1) des Gestricks;
    x) Durchführen der Verdoppelung der dritten Masche (X) in einer dritten Doppelmasche (X1) und in einer vierten Doppelmasche (Y1), wobei der dritte Doppelmasche (X1) die zweite Referenznadelposition (P2) am ersten Nadelbett (F1) einnimmt, wobei die vierte doppelte Masche (X1) in dem zweiten Nadelbett (F2) bewegt wird, um die zweite Referenznadelposition (P2) an dem zweiten Nadelbett (F2) zu besetzen;
    xi) Bewegen der vierten Maschen (Z1) in dem zweiten Nadelbett (F2), um an dem zweiten Nadelbett (F2) die benachbarten Nadelpositionen (PZ1) zu belegen, die der zweiten Referenznadelposition (P2) folgen in der Aufweitrichtung (D1) des Gestricks;
    xii) Bewegen der vierten doppelten Masche (Y1) und der vierten Maschen (Z1) in dem ersten Nadelbett (F1) durch Durchführen einer zweiten Translation (K2) einer Nadelposition in der Aufweitrichtung (D1) des Gestricks, um an dem ersten Nadelbett (F1) die benachbarten Nadelpositionen (PZ1), die der zweiten Referenznadelposition (P2) folgen, in der Aufweitrichtung (D1) des Gestricks zu besetzen.
  10. Verfahren nach Anspruch 9, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Schritt (101) zur Herstellung des unteren Teils (221, 231) den folgenden weiteren Schritt umfasst:
    xiii) Herstellen eines Satzes von mittleren Reihen (RI) in der Richtung (S1) des oberen Abschnitts, wobei die mittleren Reihen (R1) eine Breite aufweisen, die der Breite der zweiten Reihe (R2) entspricht, nach dem Abschluss der Schritte vii)-xiii).
  11. Verfahren nach einem oder mehreren der Ansprüche 6 bis 10, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Schritt (102) zur Herstellung des oberen Teils (222, 232) die folgenden Schritte umfasst:
    I) Herstellen einer vierten Reihe (R4) mit einer Vielzahl von Maschen, die entsprechende Nadelpositionen an dem ersten Nadelbett (F1) einnehmen;
    II) Auswählen einer fünften Masche (A2) in der vierten Reihe (R4), wobei die fünfte Masche an dem ersten Nadelbett (F1) eine dritte Referenznadelposition (P3) einnimmt;
    III) Auswählen einer sechsten Masche (B1) in der vierten Reihe (R4), wobei die sechste Masche an dem ersten Nadelbett (F1) eine vierte Referenznadelposition (P4) einnimmt, die der dritten Referenznadelposition (P3) vorangeht in der Verengungsrichtung (D2) des Gestricks;
    IV) Auswählen der siebten Maschen (B) in der vierten Reihe (R4), wobei die siebten Maschen an dem ersten Nadelbett (F1) in den benachbarten Nadelpositionen (PB) zwischen der dritten Referenznadelposition (P3) und dem vierten halten Referenznadelposition (P4) umfasst sind;
    V) Auswählen von achten Maschen (C) in der vierten Reihe (R4), wobei die achten Maschen an dem ersten Nadelbett (F1) den benachbarten Nadelpositionen (Pc), die der vierten Referenznadelposition (P4) vorangehen in der Verengungsrichtung (D2) des Gestricks;
    VI) Bewegen der die fünfte Masche (A2), der sechste Masche (B1) und der siebten Maschen (B) in dem zweiten Nadelbett (F2), um an dem zweiten Nadelbett (F2) die dritte Referenznadelposition (P3), die vierte Referenznadelposition (P4) und die benachbarten Nadelpositionen (PB), die zwischen der dritten Referenznadelposition (P3) und der vierten Referenznadelposition (P4) angeordnet sind, zu besetzen;
    VII) Bewegen der siebten Maschen (B) und der sechsten Masche (B1) in dem ersten Nadelbett (F1) durch Durchführen einer dritten Translation (K3) einer Nadelposition in der Verengungsrichtung (D2) des Gestricks, um an dem ersten Nadelbett (F1) die dritte Referenznadelposition (P3) und die benachbarten Nadelpositionen (PB), die der dritten Referenznadelposition vorangehen, in der Verengungsrichtung (D2) des Gestricks zu besetzen, wobei die sechste Masche (B1), der nach der dritten Translation eine fünfte Referenznadelposition (P5) in dem ersten Nadelbett (F1) einnimmt;
    VIII) Bewegen der sechste Masche (B1) in dem zweiten Nadelbett (F2), um so die fünfte Referenznadelposition (P5) in dem zweiten Nadelbett (F2) zu besetzen;
    IX) Bewegen der achten Maschen (C) in dem zweiten Nadelbett (F2), um an dem zweiten Nadelbett (F2) die benachbarten Nadelpositionen (Pc) zu besetzen, die der vierten Referenznadelposition (P4) vorangehen in der Verengungsrichtung (D2) des Gestricks;
    X) Bewegen der acht Maschen (C) in dem ersten Nadelbett (F1) durch Durchführen einer vierten Translation (K4) zweier Nadelpositionen in der Verengungsrichtung (D2) des Gestricks, um so bei dem ersten Nadelbett (F1) die fünfte Referenznadelposition (P5) und die benachbarten Nadelpositionen (P4, PC) zu besetzen, die der fünften Referenznadelposition vorangehen in der Verengungsrichtung (D2) des Gestricks;
    XI) Bewegung der fünfte Masche (A2) in dem ersten Nadelbett (F1), so dass die fünfte Masche mit der Masche (B) überlappt, die die dritte Referenznadelposition (P3) in dem ersten Nadelbett (F1) einnimmt;
    XII) Bewegen der sechsten Masche (B1) in dem ersten Nadelbett (F1), so dass die sechste Masche mit der Masche (C) überlappt, die die fünfte Referenznadelposition (P5) einnimmt an dem ersten Nadelbett (F1).
  12. Verfahren nach Anspruch 11, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Schritt (102) zum Herstellen des oberen Teils (222, 232) den folgenden weiteren Schritt umfasst:
    XIII) Herstellen von einer oder mehrerer fünfter Reihen (R5), die mit der vierten Reihe (R4) in der distalen Richtung (S1) von dem unteren Abschnitt überlappen, wobei die fünfte Reihe eine Breite aufweist, die der Breite der vierten Reihe entspricht nach der Beendigung der Schritte I) -XII).
EP12761714.0A 2011-09-02 2012-08-30 Gestrick oder gestrickteil sowie entsprechendes strickverfahren Active EP2748360B1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

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IT000120A ITTV20110120A1 (it) 2011-09-02 2011-09-02 Articolo di maglieria, o parte di esso, e metodo di realizzazione relativo
PCT/EP2012/066828 WO2013030257A2 (en) 2011-09-02 2012-08-30 Knitwear item, or a portion thereof, and related fabrication method

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DE112018008083B4 (de) 2018-10-17 2023-05-11 Dmitry Valeryevich Marchenkov Volumentrikotage

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DE102018106524B3 (de) * 2018-03-20 2019-08-01 Anna Obrezkina Strickbekleidung

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GB1106145A (en) * 1964-04-18 1968-03-13 Cotton Ltd W Production of knitted articles having pouches on straight bar knitting machines
DE2410368A1 (de) * 1974-03-05 1975-09-11 Dieter Graether Gestricktes oder gewirktes damenoberbekleidungsstueck
US5692399A (en) * 1991-07-05 1997-12-02 Shima Seiki Mfg., Ltd. Method of knitting fabric having three-dimensional silhouette shape

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE112018008083B4 (de) 2018-10-17 2023-05-11 Dmitry Valeryevich Marchenkov Volumentrikotage

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EP2748360A2 (de) 2014-07-02
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ITTV20110120A1 (it) 2013-03-03
ES2645201T3 (es) 2017-12-04

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