TW487753B - A method for producing tubular knitwear items provided with zones of three-dimensional fabric, apt to shape and give relief to the structure, the comfort and the specific anatomic containment of the products obtained thereby - Google Patents

A method for producing tubular knitwear items provided with zones of three-dimensional fabric, apt to shape and give relief to the structure, the comfort and the specific anatomic containment of the products obtained thereby Download PDF

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Publication number
TW487753B
TW487753B TW089115926A TW89115926A TW487753B TW 487753 B TW487753 B TW 487753B TW 089115926 A TW089115926 A TW 089115926A TW 89115926 A TW89115926 A TW 89115926A TW 487753 B TW487753 B TW 487753B
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Taiwan
Prior art keywords
needles
item
patent application
scope
knitted
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TW089115926A
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Chinese (zh)
Inventor
Sciacca Franco
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Sciacca Franco
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/243Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel upper parts of panties; pants
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/102Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
    • D04B1/106Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern at a selvedge, e.g. hems or turned welts
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/246Upper torso garments, e.g. sweaters, shirts, leotards
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/01Surface features
    • D10B2403/011Dissimilar front and back faces
    • D10B2403/0113One surface including hollow piping or integrated straps, e.g. for inserts or mountings

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method for producing tubular knitwear items such as panties, brassieres, bras, teddies, swimsuits, dresses and the like, provided with specific knitted zones automatically obtained, said areas having shaping, containing, propping and anatomically supporting functions. The invention coordinates the appropriate selection of needles according to the jacquard design and to the operating cycle of the knitting machine, thus obtaining for specific fabric zones and needles the partial and temporary stop of the fabric-building process for groups of needles variously alternated with other needles still involved in the fabric-building process.

Description

聲明說明(1)Statement Explanation (1)

衣有關-種用於製、, 製得τ法,適於成形二具有立體織物區域之管Clothing related-a method used to make and make τ, suitable for forming two tubes with three-dimensional fabric area

"全電性及特定負擔,並提供 樯、哭 式圓筒針織嫌〇 Ό構包覆性。具不同大I 由。的多用途性可產已經引起針織業的座抵 ’、 ,褲、胸罩乂生多種成形的管因 臀如艮制,譬如缺乏用^及其他。但由於部份舊右 肌、腹部等Α辦 ;^計並進行適卷音相# 區域,Μ 身體結構部的+心^ ^田實現譬如 ,二所以部份上述針織===、$覆及支承功能 以;剪裁、縫合或特定需要費力的額外彳彖處 衫響製造成本。 、弋觀墊,該等作業將連|且 、吞 貝〗上述針織衣物因為去^ 適性及結構成形等習4 i未完全滿足客戶在上述部 品。 再珉形4 I知需求與期待,而視為品質不 針織機i ί:η ϊ機所製造的織物,針織衣物業 1仏廠所作的大量技術發展及變 的夕卜以;;=已逐漸…具有 規同¥具有取佳的織造循環。 j,此議題已具有大量技術、商業及專利文件, :·是顯示:譬如,採用電子式獨立選擇針以及電 、、十織織物厚度已經大幅簡化針織織造物之設計及 ’並引述參照下列專利:美國專利3, 9 5 6, 9 0 9號、美 3,2 3 2,〇 7 9號、美國專利3,9 9 2,9 〇 3號、美國專利 狀針織 由其所 直經之 為這些 如包括 技術及 乳房、 之針織 理作業 永久地 份的舒 良的產 已從該 項優點 吸引人 該等文 子式控 模型 國專利 〇" All electrical properties and specific burdens, and provide 樯, cry-type cylindrical knitting susceptible 0 Ό structure covering. With different big I. The multi-purpose production has caused the knitting industry to reach a certain position, and pants, bras have produced a variety of shaped tubes due to hips, such as lack of use, and others. But because some old right muscles, abdomen, etc. do A; ^ Calculate and carry out the appropriate volume tone phase # area, Μ body structure + heart ^ ^ field implementation, for example, the second part of the above knitting ===, $ cover and The support function is based on the cost of tailoring, stitching, or special extra effort. The above-mentioned knitted garments, because of their suitability and structural forming, do not fully satisfy the customers in the above-mentioned parts. In order to understand the needs and expectations, it is regarded as a quality non-knitting machine. Ί: η The fabrics made by the knitting machine and the knitwear property 1 factory have made a lot of technological developments and changes; = has gradually ... have the same rules, and have the best weaving cycle. j. This issue already has a large number of technical, commercial and patent documents. It is shown that, for example, the use of electronic independent selection needles and electrical, ten-woven fabric thicknesses has greatly simplified the design of knitted woven fabrics and 'refer to the following patents : U.S. Patent No. 3, 9 6 6, 9 0 9; U.S. Patent No. 3, 2 3, 2 0 07; U.S. Patent No. 3, 9 9 2; 9 009; U.S. Patent-shaped knitting These products, such as Shu Liang, which includes technology and breasts and knitting operations permanently, have attracted such patents from this advantage.

O:\65\65659.ptd 第5頁 487753 五、發明說明(2) 4,0 4 8,8 1 9號、美國專利4,5 2 7,4 0 3號、美國專利 4,5673,737號、美國專利4,624,115號、美國專利 4,6 6 3,9 4 6號、美國專利4,6 8 2,4 7 9號、美國專利 5, 081, 854號、美國專利5, 222, 379 號、GB 2.179.969 號、 JP 3137201 號、jP 7-6206 號、EP 599266 號。 近來雖已有發展但在技術性紡織性質方面仍有限制,通 常降低了引文所述的製成物件之舒適性及一般品質。在圖 8所示習知技藝範例中,後視顯示的襯褲1的特徵為一般二 鬆緊帶或雙彈性褲帶DB及位於臀肌之間的菱形織物區·' ifn λ;-?人 / άΑ xu- Tifa « 以將製成物件配合人體作塑形 該菱形織物C A通常來自熟悉本技術者瞭解的♦正 針環、加長針環、及集圈針目之適當組合 、十目 針織物設計與結構。 ^戍的一般 但根據上述資訊,上述襯褲1並不完全八人 該彈性褲帶DB的形狀、剖面及環狀發 7^滿意,因^ 複雜體型差異,且菱形織物CA區呈現其他限慮到人體 一方面,該菱形織物CA僅概呈平面^ ^ μ。 Γ永僅Γ-滿足對於相關身體結構部份的% 另一方 支承之極高需求。 物的形狀、舒適性 並且 尤其在女性生殖3|衛生太; 將一額外立體绺仏山 ^ 生方面,最精细沾〜 明因而針對顯件縫在該部份上而完成;^織業 有利地獲得具有尤或消除上述技術及生產^ .褲。本 物的特定區域之|=同的鬆緊帶或彈性褲·】=,以自 s狀針織衣物,而對於原庫呈立體 。生產、技術O: \ 65 \ 65659.ptd Page 5 487753 V. Description of the invention (2) No. 4,0 4 8,8 1 9; No. 4,5 2 7,4 0 3; No. 4,567,737 U.S. Patent No. 4,624,115, U.S. Patent No. 4,6 6 3,9 4 6, U.S. Patent No. 4,6 8 2,4 7 9, U.S. Patent No. 5,081,854, U.S. Patent No. 5, 222, 379, GB 2.179.969, JP 3137201, jP 7-6206, EP 599266. Although there have been recent developments, there are still limitations in terms of technical textile properties, which generally reduce the comfort and general quality of the manufactured articles described in the citations. In the example of the conventional technique shown in FIG. 8, the characteristics of the underpants 1 shown in the rear view are the general two elastic bands or bi-elastic trousers belt DB and the diamond-shaped fabric area located between the gluteal muscles · 'ifn λ;-? / ΆΑ xu -Tifa «Shape the finished object to fit the human body. The rhombic fabric CA usually comes from the proper combination of positive needle loops, extended needle loops, and loop needles, and the design and structure of ten-mesh knitted fabrics. ^ General but according to the above information, the above panty 1 is not completely the shape, cross-section and loop hair of the elastic trousers DB. 7 ^ Satisfied, due to ^ complex body shape differences, and other areas of the diamond-shaped fabric CA area take into consideration On the human body, the diamond-shaped fabric CA is only approximately flat ^ ^ μ. Γ is only Γ-meeting the extremely high demand for% support for the other part of the body structure. The shape, comfort, and especially in female reproduction 3 | hygiene too; will be an extra three-dimensional 绺 仏 health, the finest staining ~ Ming is therefore completed for the display sewing on this part; ^ weaving industry to obtain Have or eliminate the above-mentioned technology and production ^. Pants. In the specific area of the article, the same elastic band or elastic pants is used to knit the clothes from the s shape, but it is three-dimensional to the original library. Production, technology

O:\65\65659.ptd 第6頁 I 五、發明 s--____ 美觀及商業 ' ^—-一- 撐。 ^具有更佳的形狀、杵制± 士 丨此外,本發明一工 控帝丨、支承及結構支 份具有概呈i狀針織衣物之方法,‘ if 一種用於製造甚 織管外)僅體織物結構並結構性針織衣物至少部 動製造。僅"變化交錯狀的二依V改在:織,(= 另一主 b改過之提花設計自 生殖器之間I3係提供一種用於自動劐1 腩置S #具有特定立髀Μ & ^ f動I造在乳房或臀肌及 胸!2似物)之方法體織物區域之針織衣物(如襯褲、 ^及支撐。 巾具有更好的結構形狀、包覆性 另一目的係提供—链 < 準則而顯著修改該等^ =於依照不同身體結構設計_ A十 外=狀發展之=織::=彈性褲帶或鬆 另目的係提供—即更適合人體的多變尺寸。的 來生產具有—或 ft以具有更穩定尺寸的平 等所製織物之特=所製造物件之方*:; 除了申請專利;;;i承功r 仃該 例i!式而瞭解其他μ。τ早獨或—起參照描述、實施 可由下列示範實施例铲 ; 優點,且可有利地;二f快瞭解本發明的特徵 I發明揭^ 於大部份針織機中。 订生 Μ ^用於製造管狀針織衣 等管狀針織衣物譬如為襯褲、法大致達成上述目的, 衣、胸罩、連身襯褲、洋 O:\65\65659.ptd $ 7頁O: \ 65 \ 65659.ptd Page 6 I V. Invention s --____ Beautiful and commercial ^^-一-support. ^ It has a better shape and a pestle. ± In addition, the method of industrial control of the present invention, the support and structural branches have a method of roughly i-shaped knitted clothes, 'if a kind of fabric used to make very weaving tubes) only body fabric Structured and structured knitted garments are manufactured at least in part. Only " Variation of the two-dimensional V-shape changes: weaving, (= another master b changed jacquard design from the genitalia I3 series provides a way to automatically 劐 1 腩 置 S ## has a specific stand 髀 Μ & ^ fMotion I made in the breast or gluteal muscles and chest! 2 similar objects) knitted fabrics (such as underpants, ^ and support) in the body fabric area. Towels have a better structural shape and coverability. Another purpose is to provide-chain < Significantly modify the guidelines ^ = designed according to different body structures_ A 十 外 = shape development = weaving :: = elastic pants or loose ends are provided-that is more suitable for the human body's variable size. Coming Production of fabrics with—or ft to produce fabrics with equal and more stable dimensions = parts of manufactured objects * :; in addition to applying for patents ;; i Chenggong r 仃 this example i! Type and understand other μ. Τ early independence Or-from the description, the implementation can be achieved by the following exemplary embodiments; advantages, and can be advantageous; quickly understand the features of the present invention. The invention is disclosed in most knitting machines. Tubular knitted garments such as clothing, such as panties, can achieve the above purpose. Cover, coveralls pants, Yang O: \ 65 \ 65659.ptd $ 7 Ye

487753 五、發明說明(4) 裝、技術物件及類似物,針織機中設有至少一個針床或針 盤,包含製造一個概呈圓筒形的管狀針織織物或針織管之 步驟,其特徵為該製造管狀針織織物的步驟包含:藉由選 擇性自動以程式設定而在針織程序中排除針盤的預定針數 ,以製造在管狀針織織物上具有差異化成長的至少一個織 物區域之步驟,在針織成型程序中於預定時間間隔之後再 繼續預定針數之各針。 有利情形中,依照針盤的預定順序來選擇預定針數,並 將依預定順序自針織成型程序排除之針與針織針互呈交錯 狀,預定順序譬如可為1 : 1、或2 : 1 - 2 : 2及類似情形。 並且,在管狀針織衣物上具有差異化成長之Λ織’物區域係 包含紡織立體結構或褶邊B i。 除了申請專利範圍之外,可由描述、實施例及圖式本身 或組合瞭解額外目的。可藉由示範性非限定實施例的描述 ,更瞭解本發明特徵及衍生優點。 圖式簡單說明 參照圖式加以描述,圖中: 圖1顯示用於製造立體褶邊B i之針配置的技術圖; 圖2顯示針之另一技術操作圖; 圖3及3 a分別為褶邊B i的側視圖及正視圖; 圖4為圖3及3a的褶邊Bi之立體圖; 圖5為圖1及2的技術圖之閱讀說明; 圖6顯示製造褶邊B i期間之針; 圖7-7a-7b-7c-7d-7e-7f-7g-7h示意顯示褶邊Bi的幾何487753 V. Description of the invention (4) At least one needle bed or dial is included in the knitting machine, including the steps of manufacturing a cylindrical tubular knitted fabric or knitted tube, which is characterized by: The step of manufacturing a tubular knitted fabric includes: a step of manufacturing at least one fabric region having differentiated growth on the tubular knitted fabric by selectively excluding a predetermined number of stitches of a dial in a knitting program by selectively automatically programming; Each stitch of a predetermined number of stitches is continued after a predetermined time interval in the knitting process. In a favorable situation, the predetermined number of stitches is selected in accordance with the predetermined order of the dial, and the needles and knitting needles excluded from the knitting molding process according to the predetermined order are staggered with each other. The predetermined order may be, for example, 1: 1, or 2: 1- 2: 2 and similar situations. Furthermore, the Δ-woven 'fabric region having a differentiated growth on the tubular knitted garment includes a woven three-dimensional structure or a frill B i. In addition to the scope of the patent application, additional purposes may be understood from the description, the embodiments, and the drawings themselves or combinations thereof. The features and derived advantages of the present invention can be better understood through the description of exemplary non-limiting embodiments. Brief description of the drawings is described with reference to the drawings, in which: FIG. 1 shows a technical diagram of the needle configuration for manufacturing three-dimensional frills B i; FIG. 2 shows another technical operation diagram of the needles; FIGS. 3 and 3 a are pleats, respectively Side view and front view of the side Bi; Figure 4 is a perspective view of the frill Bi of Figures 3 and 3a; Figure 5 is a reading description of the technical drawings of Figures 1 and 2; Figure 6 shows the needle during the manufacture of the frill Bi; Figure 7-7a-7b-7c-7d-7e-7f-7g-7h schematically shows the geometry of the frill Bi

O:\65\65659.ptd 第8頁 487753 五、發明說明(5) ' 配置之部份範例; 圖8為先進技術所知的襯褲之後視圖; 圖9為内衣胸罩之後視圖; 圖1 0為根據本發明之襯褲的後視圖; , 圖1 1為根據本發明之另一襯褲的正視圖; 圖1 2顯示習知技藝之襯褲的後視圖; 圖1 3 - 1 4- 1 5- 1 6 - 1 7顯示根據本發明的襯褲内側後部之不 同實施例; 圖1 8顯示襯褲的内側後部之另一實施例; 圖1 9為圖1 8的襯褲之側剖視圖。 〇 示範實施例之描述 _ 大部份描述係有關山東尼(8&111:〇11丨)81^8-8型”完全電子" 式單筒圓形針織機,但本發明可有利地用於大多數針織衣 襪圓形機。 第一較佳實施例中,裝設一個特殊工作週期或提花設計 以實行本發明,亦即資訊係以圖形工作站或其他控制及記 憶裝置或其他適當相關裝置而針對或僅限於針或針板或在 製造織物時直接或間接發生之其他元件。 本發明在此階段製造針織衣物,其特徵為:由於排除已 、 知數量的針,而具有差異化成長之織物區域,而對於相鄰 者呈交錯狀,譬如1 : 1、2 : 1 - 2 : 2及類似情形。 ’ 異常地,依原始設計或工作週期之已知圖案或程式,通 u 常對於針之大部份輸入或指令並未送到一部份的針。 這將使針被排除,而不具有來自織物建造程序之輸入或O: \ 65 \ 65659.ptd Page 8 487753 V. Description of the invention (5) Some examples of configuration; Figure 8 is a rear view of the panties known by advanced technology; Figure 9 is a rear view of an underwear bra; Figure 10 is Rear view of the panty according to the present invention; FIG. 11 is a front view of another panty according to the present invention; FIG. 12 shows a rear view of the panty according to the conventional art; FIG. 1 3-1 4- 1 5- 1 6 -17 shows different embodiments of the inner back part of the panty according to the present invention; Fig. 18 shows another embodiment of the inner back part of the panty; Fig. 19 is a side sectional view of the panty shown in Fig. 18. 〇Description of the exemplary embodiment _ Most of the description is related to Shandong Ni (8 & 111: 〇11 丨) 81 ^ 8-8 "fully electronic" single-cylinder circular knitting machine, but the present invention can be advantageously used In most circular knitting and knitting machines. In the first preferred embodiment, a special work cycle or jacquard design is installed to implement the present invention, that is, information is provided by a graphics workstation or other control and memory device or other appropriate related device. It is aimed at or limited to needles or needle boards or other elements that occur directly or indirectly during the manufacture of fabrics. The invention makes knitted garments at this stage, which is characterized by a differentiated growth due to the elimination of a known number of needles Areas of fabric that are staggered to neighbors, such as 1: 1, 2: 1-2: 2, and the like. 'Unusually, according to the original pattern or known pattern or pattern of the work cycle, it is often Most of the inputs or instructions are not sent to a part of the needle. This will cause the needle to be excluded without having input or

O:\65\65659.ptd 第9頁 487753 五、發明說明(6) 指令:該排除若完全針對特定區域則會造成浮動的紗線; 此特定情形中,藉由在圖1至6適當分佈之部份操作針A D而 受到適當處理,雙重目的係為減少浮動紗線長度及建造相 關針織結構的長度,亦即圖3至4的技術圖示方面之立體褶 邊B i。 圖1 一2 — 3-4一 5 — 6參照用於製造立體織物Bi的摺邊之特定 針配置而顯示針織技術之技術性、圖形及紡織圖。尤其, 圖4係顯示圖3的褶邊B i之極實際立體圖,以針A D進行並接 合在針織管TM内。針AP並非織物建造程序的一部份、且將 對應的最後環圈保持在後方。對於褶邊B i的立體突部,應 瞭解此突部數係取決於形成褶邊B i的緯圈數,广此緯圈數可 大幅改變。因此,可包括僅3至4個緯圈至數十個緯圈,以 達成相當的立體效果。 因此,此執行階段中,利用大致所有針製造的平紋織物 中之區域、及與習知技藝不同的其他區域來實行本發明, 其中使織物建造程序受到中斷。 實際上,這些區域中,以交錯狀針所製造之織物係留在 針織管内,在製造物件的結構塑形中係擔任遠比先前或已 知技術更有效率之部份。 譬如,僅排除偶數的針AP,或交錯狀的針對,亦即在一 或多個排除的針之後的三針式操作組,等等。 在特定區域中及改變時間(即使對應於適當數量的針織 路程而較長)同時出現之排除的針(2 - 4 - 6等)與操作針(譬 係為製造特定針織織物 如 1-3-5 等),參圖 1-2-3-4-5-O: \ 65 \ 65659.ptd Page 9 487753 V. Description of the invention (6) Instruction: The exclusion will cause the yarn to float if it is completely targeted to a specific area; in this particular case, by appropriately distributing in Figures 1 to 6 Some of the operating needles AD are properly processed. The dual purpose is to reduce the length of the floating yarn and to construct the length of the related knitted structure, that is, the three-dimensional frill B i in the technical illustration of FIGS. 3 to 4. Fig. 1—2—3-4—5—6 shows the technical, graphic, and textile diagrams of the knitting technique with reference to the specific needle configuration of the hems used to make the three-dimensional fabric Bi. In particular, Fig. 4 is a very practical perspective view showing the ruffle B i of Fig. 3, which is performed with needles A D and joined in the knitted tube TM. The needle AP is not part of the fabric construction process and keeps the corresponding last loop to the rear. As for the three-dimensional protrusions of the ruffle B i, it should be understood that the number of the protrusions depends on the number of weft loops forming the ruffle B i. The number of weft loops can be greatly changed. Therefore, it can include only 3 to 4 weft loops to dozens of weft loops to achieve a comparable three-dimensional effect. Therefore, in this execution stage, the present invention is implemented using a region in a plain weave made of substantially all needles, and other regions different from the conventional art, in which the fabric construction process is interrupted. In fact, in these areas, fabrics made with staggered needles remain in the knitting tube and serve as a much more efficient part of the structural shaping of the manufactured object than previous or known technologies. For example, only an even number of pins AP is excluded, or staggered pairs, that is, a three-pin operation group after one or more excluded pins, and so on. Excluded needles (2-4-6 etc.) and operating needles (for example to make specific knitted fabrics such as 1-3- 5 etc.), see Figure 1-2-3-4-5-

O:\65\65659.ptd 第10頁 487753 五、發明說明(7) 之充分且必要的前提,其特徵為:額外的織物在針織管内 成長,此成長可依相關技術紡織因素(譬如機器間距、所 用紗線性質及數量、單一針線厚度等)而容易加以調節。 僅以接合的交錯狀針及相對應的環圈A D來繼續織物建造程 序,而其他自由交錯狀針仍接合至相對應的最後環圈AP, 此技術可產生具有兩個層或布材之一個概呈閉合的針織褶 邊Bi ,請見圖3至4,並可在垂直、水平及對角方向重覆及 改變。 並且,上述褶邊B i的組成、厚度及高度係為顯著影響織 物及製成物件的形狀、舒適性、支承及尺寸穩定性的程度 之相關因素及變數。 , 因此,圖7顯示呈水平排列的上述立體褶邊之第一高度 示意配置之正視圖,而圖7 a至7 h顯示褶邊B i具有很不同形 狀與配置之其他組合,而最後逐漸可能影響到製成物件之 最後外觀。 圖7至7 h的範例僅示意顯示本發明提供用於定位褶邊B i 之無數種幾何組合的一部份,若很接近時,除了以更高效 能影響製造物件的形狀及最後結構順從性之外,另外亦產 生類似於已知絨頭或毛圈織物的原始紡織突部。 圖1 2以習知技藝的範例顯示在臀肌之間垂直配置有正常 的兩層彈性帶或條D B及尿布性織物C A的後區域之襯褲1。 圖13至17示意顯示在襯褲1的後方中央内部CA依需要具有 立體突部,該襯褲1同時差異性或逐漸在下部變寬以覆蓋 生殖器,而有較高舒適性及保護程度。針織區域CA的褶邊O: \ 65 \ 65659.ptd Page 10 487753 V. The sufficient and necessary premise of the invention description (7) is characterized in that the additional fabric grows in the knitted tube, and this growth can be based on related technical textile factors (such as machine spacing) , The nature and quantity of the yarn used, the thickness of a single needle thread, etc.) and can be easily adjusted. The fabric construction process is continued with only the interlaced stitches and the corresponding loop AD, while other free interlaced stitches are still joined to the corresponding final loop AP. This technique can produce one with two layers or cloth material The closed knit frill Bi is shown in Figures 3 to 4, and can be repeated and changed in vertical, horizontal and diagonal directions. In addition, the composition, thickness, and height of the frills B i are factors and variables that significantly affect the degree of shape, comfort, support, and dimensional stability of the fabric and the manufactured article. Therefore, FIG. 7 shows a schematic view of the first configuration of the three-dimensional frills arranged horizontally, and FIGS. 7 a to 7 h show that the frills B i have other combinations of very different shapes and configurations, and finally it is gradually possible Affects the final appearance of the finished object. The examples of Figs. 7 to 7h only schematically show a part of the numerous geometric combinations provided by the present invention for positioning the ruffle B i, if they are close, in addition to affecting the shape of the manufactured object and the final structural compliance with higher efficiency In addition, raw textile protrusions similar to known pile or terry fabrics are also produced. Fig. 12 shows an example of the conventional technique of the underpants 1 in the rear region of a diaper fabric CA with two normal elastic bands or strips D B and a diaper fabric CA arranged vertically between the gluteal muscles. Figures 13 to 17 schematically show that the inner CA of the rear central portion of the underpants 1 has a three-dimensional protrusion as required. The underpants 1 are simultaneously or gradually widened at the lower part to cover the genitals, with a high degree of comfort and protection. Frills in knitted area CA

O:\65\65659.ptd 第11頁 487753 五、發明說明(8) B i根據本發明具有各種排列方式,本發明的紡織特徵進一 步顯示於圖1 8中,其中襯褲1的後部C A的特徵為一系列的 水平褶邊,具有不同圖形以顯示圖7至7 Η中部份顯示的組 -合。 圖1 9顯示圖1 8出現之一段相同元件;在針織管ΤΜ内,因 '而可觀察到具有彈性條D Β 1之不同B i 1的立體輪廓。本發明 目的亦包括:具有内褶邊B i所產生之針織區.域C A的結構硬 化,以協調局部結構支承的功能與一般支承的功能,對於 圖9中的胸罩内衣1或泳裝、連身襯褲、洋裝及類似衣物的 肩帶S D - S S,在更為一般的情形中,應瞭解各種排列方式 之褶邊B i可使織物在路程及凸條或凸肋方向γ真有更穩定 尺寸。固有彈性的平紋織物MJ通常並未幫助提高使用者的 乳房且未塑形在乳房上。因此,根據本發明的原理,以各 種排列方式的多數褶邊B i來實行中央部C A,結果可能同時 獲得兩項優點:對於乳房的結構順服性、以及藉由中央部 CA (亦即具穩定尺寸之織物)的連接以下條DB-3至上條DB- 2 的結構聯桿作為支撐。 以圖1 0所示實施例來進一步實行本發明,圖8的襯褲1係 -為習知技藝的範例,由後方顯示且具有一般的兩層彈性帶 或條D B,以及垂直設置於臀肌之間的尿布性織物C A中之後 區域。與圖8的一般製成物件1不同,圖1 0的彈性帶DB顯示 藉由適當逐漸調整及配置於兩個針織層或布材之間的多數 内褶邊B i所獲得中央部份C A之明顯的結構性降低。此特定 情形中,在針盤或上針床的鉤或針製造較佳具有彈性及雙O: \ 65 \ 65659.ptd Page 11 487753 V. Description of the invention (8) B i has various arrangements according to the present invention. The textile features of the present invention are further shown in FIG. 18, in which the characteristics of the back CA of the underpants 1 It is a series of horizontal frills with different graphics to show the group-combination shown in part of Figures 7 to 7. Fig. 19 shows a section of the same element appearing in Fig. 18; within the knitted tube TM, the three-dimensional contour of the different B i 1 with the elastic strip D B 1 can be observed because of '. The purpose of the present invention also includes: having the knitting area produced by the inner frill Bi. The structure of the domain CA is hardened to coordinate the function of the local structural support and the function of the general support. For the bra underwear 1 or the swimwear and the jumpsuit in FIG. 9 Shoulder straps SD-SS of panties, dresses, and similar clothing, in a more general situation, it should be understood that the frills B i in various arrangements can make the fabric really have a more stable size in the distance and the direction of the ribs or ribs. The inherently elastic plain weave MJ usually does not help raise the breast of the user and is not shaped on the breast. Therefore, according to the principle of the present invention, the central portion CA is implemented with a large number of frills B i in various arrangements. As a result, two advantages may be obtained at the same time: the structural compliance of the breast, and the stability through the central portion CA (that is, stable). Size fabric) to connect the structural link from the next DB-3 to the previous DB-2 as a support. The embodiment shown in FIG. 10 is used to further implement the present invention. The underpants 1 of FIG. 8 are examples of conventional techniques, which are shown in the rear and have a general two-layer elastic band or strip DB, and are vertically arranged on the gluteal muscles. Diaper fabric CA in the back area. Different from the general manufactured object 1 of FIG. 8, the elastic band DB of FIG. 10 shows that the central portion CA obtained by most of the inner frills B i gradually adjusted and arranged between two knitted layers or cloth materials Significant structural degradation. In this particular case, the manufacture of hooks or needles on a dial or needle bed is preferably elastic and double

O:\65\65659.ptd 第12頁 487753 五、發明說明(9) 層之條D B期間(熟悉本技藝者可瞭解以上名詞,並未圖示) ,根據本發明且依上文描述,僅以一部份的針在針織管内 產生具有降低成長的針織區域,該等區域係為上述的褶邊 B i。圖1 0的襯褲1具有由各種方式具有特定結構性支撐功 能之褶邊B i加以硬化之一個前針織區域S A。 該等褶邊當適當設計及排列時可有效幫助: -修改一般條DB的環狀發展之規則性; -視需要依使用者的生理特徵來塑形新條DB ; -改良具有商用優點的製成物件之美觀性; -依需要將彈性帶的伸展性漸調成所需範圍。 並且,圖10的襯褲1的進一步特徵為圖7至7弘所示褶邊Bi 的組合及組成所構成之前部份S A,根據本發明,該針織區 域具有對於腹部結構支撐及較大局部舒適性的額外功能之 特殊設計。 圖1 1顯示一個襯褲1 (或具有彈性條DB之另一管狀製成物 件),其特徵為位於臀部上之該等褶邊B i的不同位置,因 此可能降低側向織物產生並增加前部份中之帶D B成長,並 由選擇性特殊電控制之針線形成凸輪依需要加強(熟悉本 技藝者瞭解這些名詞,未圖示)。 此實施例中,該等褶邊可有效幫助: -修改一般條DB的環狀發展之規則性; -視需要依使用者的生理特徵來塑形新條D B ; -改良具有商用優點的製成物件之美觀性; -依需要將彈性帶的伸展性漸調成所需範圍。O: \ 65 \ 65659.ptd Page 12 487753 V. Description of the invention (9) The period of DB (those familiar with the art can understand the above terms, not shown), according to the present invention and as described above, only A part of the needle is used to create a knitted area with reduced growth in the knitted tube, and these areas are the frills B i described above. The underpants 1 of Fig. 10 have a front knitting area SA which is hardened by frills B i having various structural support functions in various ways. These frills can effectively help when properly designed and arranged:-modify the regularity of the circular development of the general strip DB;-shape the new strip DB according to the user's physiological characteristics as needed;-improve the system with commercial advantages The aesthetics of the finished object;-gradually adjust the stretchability of the elastic band to the required range as needed. Further, the underpants 1 of FIG. 10 is further characterized by the previous portion SA formed by the combination and composition of the frills Bi shown in FIGS. 7 to 7. According to the present invention, the knitted region has support for abdominal structure and greater local comfort. Special design for extra features. Figure 11 shows a pair of underpants 1 (or another tubular article with elastic strips DB), which are characterized by the different positions of the frills B i on the buttocks, so it is possible to reduce lateral fabric production and increase the front The portion with DB grows, and the cam formed by the selective special electric control needle thread is strengthened as needed (familiar with this art, understand these terms, not shown). In this embodiment, the frills can effectively help:-modify the regularity of the circular development of the general strip DB;-shape the new strip DB according to the physiological characteristics of the user as needed;-improve the production with commercial advantages The aesthetics of the object;-gradually adjust the stretchability of the elastic band to the required range as required.

O:\65\65659.ptd 第13頁 487753 五、發明說明(ίο) -製造具有腹部結構支撐功能之一個條D B。 本文範例使熟悉本技藝者清楚瞭解本發明的實施例之廣 泛範圍,除了考慮所使用技術及/或紡織材料的性質之外 ,可盡量改變在形狀、尺寸及/或位置方面的施行細節, 但仍位於本發明範圍與目的之内。O: \ 65 \ 65659.ptd Page 13 487753 V. Description of the Invention (ίο)-Manufacturing a strip D B with the function of supporting the abdominal structure. The examples herein make it clear for those skilled in the art to understand the broad scope of the embodiments of the present invention. In addition to considering the technology used and / or the nature of the textile material, the implementation details in shape, size and / or position can be changed as much as possible, but Still within the scope and purpose of the present invention.

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Claims (1)

487753 9JL 1 i 案號 89115926 7/年»月 曰 修正 泉 -六-、·申請專矛11¼圍 1 . 一種在具有至少一個針床或針盤的針織機中用於製造 狀針織衣物之方法,包含製造一個概呈圓柱形的管狀針 織物或針織管之步驟,其特徵為該製造管狀針織織物的 驟包含:藉由選擇性自動以程式設定而在針織程序中排 針盤的預定數量的針,以製造在該管狀針織織物上具有 異化紡織立體結構成長的至少一個織物區域之步驟,在 織成型程序中於預定時間間隔之後採行該預定針數之各 管 織 步 除 差 針 針 2 ·如申請專利範圍第1項之方法,其特徵為:依照該針盤 的一預定順序來選擇該預定數量的針。 3. 如申請專利範圍第2項之方法,其特徵备:依照該預定0 順序自針織成型程序排除之針係與針織針互呈交錯狀,該 預定順序譬如為1 : 1、或2 : 1 - 2 : 2及類似情形。 4. 如申請專利範圍第1、2或3項之方法,其特徵為:在管 狀針織織物上具有差異化成長之該織物區域係包含紡織立 體結構或褶邊B i。 5. 如申請專利範圍第1項之方法,較佳用於製造管狀針 織衣物譬如襯褲、内衣、胸罩、連身襯褲、洋裝、技術物 件及類似物,較佳設有一或多個兩層彈性條,其特徵為: 依據一個修改的程式、設計或工作週期,自動產生藉由在 針織管之内或之外概呈立體結構性接合之特定紡織結構或 褶邊B i,而使該’等物件受到強力塑形或呈合適狀。 6. 如申請專利範圍第5項之方法,其特徵為:以與脫離 針互呈各種交錯狀之針組,來自動產生在針織管TM内接合487753 9JL 1 i Case No. 89115926 7 / year »Month Correction Spring-Six-, · Application for Special Spear 11¼ Circumference 1. A method for manufacturing a knitted garment in a knitting machine having at least one needle bed or dial, Contains a step of manufacturing a substantially cylindrical tubular knitted fabric or knit tube, characterized in that the step of manufacturing a tubular knitted fabric includes: arranging a predetermined number of needles in a needle dial in a knitting process by selective automatic programming In order to produce at least one fabric area with a heterogeneous textile three-dimensional structure growth on the tubular knitted fabric, each tube weaving step of the predetermined number of stitches is performed after a predetermined time interval in the weaving molding process. For example, the method of claim 1 in the scope of patent application is characterized in that the predetermined number of needles is selected in accordance with a predetermined order of the needle plate. 3. If the method of the second item of the patent application is applied, it is characterized in that the needles and knitting needles excluded from the knitting molding procedure according to the predetermined 0 order are staggered with each other, and the predetermined order is, for example, 1: 1, or 2: 1 -2: 2 and similar situations. 4. The method of claim 1, 2 or 3, characterized in that the area of the fabric with differentiated growth on the tubular knitted fabric comprises a textile solid structure or a frill B i. 5. If the method of the first item of the scope of patent application is applied, it is preferably used for manufacturing tubular knitted clothes such as panties, underwear, bra, jumpsuits, dresses, technical objects and the like, and preferably provided with one or more two-layer elastic strips , Which is characterized in that: according to a modified program, design or working cycle, automatically generate a specific textile structure or frill B i which is approximately three-dimensionally structured inside or outside the knitted tube, so that the object Strongly shaped or shaped. 6. The method according to item 5 of the scope of patent application, characterized in that the stitches in various staggered shapes with the detached needles are automatically generated to join in the knitted tube TM. O:\65\65659-910416.ptc 第16頁 487753 * _案號89115926 年月日_^_ ‘六、申請專利範圍 的針織褶邊B i,並將相對應的最後環圈保持在後方;該等 針係接合在針織區域中以適於自動塑形於乳房或臀肌之間 並到達骨盆區,而有更佳結構上的合適性、包覆性、支承 _ 及支撐。 7.如申請專利範.圍第5或6項之方法,其特徵為:根據不 ^ 同結構形狀設計的準則或輪廓,亦即順應多變的人體尺寸 ,適當配置於帶或雙條D B内之適當褶邊B i的出現係顯著修 改了該等針織衣物之一般彈性帶或條的外觀及環狀發展。 8 .如申請專利範圍第7項之方法,其特徵為:該等製成物 件設有因為該等褶邊B i而具更穩定織物之一或多個區域, 亦有實行該等製成物件的特定結構支承的功族。 9.如申請專利範圍第8項之方法,其特徵矣:藉由排除及 部份排除環圈或針織路程,來製造具有差異化成長的路程 、環圈或預先界定的區域之織物,及依照提花設計或相對 應的工作週期,來同時製造及部份製造對於針織管之程式 設定的變形之先前的針線或内褶邊B i。 1 0.如申請專利範圍第9項之方法,用於製造管狀物件且 其特徵為:由於排除比針床或圓筒中所出現的針更少之數 - 個針,而有差異化成長的針織區域,較佳係與相鄰者呈交 錯狀,譬如1 : 1或2 : 1 - 2 : 2及類似方式。 ’ Π .如申請專利範圍第1 〇項之方法,其特徵為:與一般方 法不同,依照一項提花設計或工作週期,即使經過長時間 對於針之一部份甚至一貫的輸入或指令仍未送到這些針的 一部份。O: \ 65 \ 65659-910416.ptc Page 16 487753 * _ Case No. 89115926 _ ^ _ 'Six, the patented knitting frill B i, and keep the corresponding last loop to the rear; These needles are engaged in the knitting area to be suitable for automatic shaping between the breast or gluteal muscles and reach the pelvic area, and have better structural suitability, covering, support and support. 7. If the method for applying for a patent covers the 5th or 6th item, it is characterized by: according to the design rules or contours of different structural shapes, that is, conforming to the changing human body size, appropriately arranged in the belt or double DB The appearance of appropriate frills B i significantly modified the appearance and looped development of the general elastic bands or strips of these knitted garments. 8. The method according to item 7 of the scope of patent application, characterized in that the manufactured articles are provided with one or more regions having more stable fabrics because of the frills B i, and the manufactured articles are also implemented The work family supported by the specific structure. 9. The method according to item 8 of the scope of patent application, characterized in that: by excluding and partially excluding loops or knitting paths, fabrics with differentiated growth paths, loops or pre-defined areas are manufactured, and in accordance with The jacquard design or corresponding working cycle is used to manufacture and partially manufacture the previous needlework or inner hem B i of the deformation set for the program of the knitted tube. 10. The method according to item 9 of the scope of patent application, which is used for manufacturing tubular articles and is characterized in that: by eliminating fewer needles than needles appearing in needle beds or cylinders, knitting with differentiated growth The area is preferably staggered with its neighbors, such as 1: 1 or 2: 1-2: 2 and the like. 'Π. The method of item 10 of the scope of patent application is characterized in that, unlike the general method, according to a jacquard design or working cycle, even after a long period of time, even a constant input or instruction for a part of the needle has not been issued. Sent to part of these needles. O:\65\65659-910416.ptc 第17頁 487753 _案號89Π5926_年月日__ 六、申請專利範圍 1 2.如申請專利範圍第1 1項之方法,用於製造管狀物件 且其特徵包括下列至少一項:一個初始雙條,然後為適當 數量的針織路程,但需使得在一個可能的第二雙條之後則 為一個最終廢料;至少部份順應一項設計或圖案及相對應 的工作週期來製造該等針織路程,依此自針線成形程序排 除掉延伸少於針圓筒3 6 0度之一部份的針,較佳為交錯狀 的針譬如奇數的針,其中相交錯的針譬如偶數的針仍可活 動產生針織管内之線圈成形褶邊B i。 1 3. —種根據申請專利範圍第1 2項之方法所製成之針織 衣物,其特徵為:適當設計並實行較佳具有兩層且有多數 褶邊B i之至少一個彈性帶或條,適於修改該彈性條之形 狀、輪廓、尺寸及功能,甚至作為一結構性 >支撐。 1 4.如申請專利範圍第1 3項之針織衣物,其特徵為:該等 褶邊Bi放置於該彈性帶的前部CA上作為DB及SA。 1 5.如申請專利範圍第1 3項之針織衣物,其特徵為:該等 褶邊B i亦位於彈性帶DB的後部上。 1 6.如申請專利範圍第1 3項之針織衣物,其特徵為:該等 褶邊B i放置於該彈性帶DB的側邊與臀部上。 1 7. —種根據申請專利範圍第1 2項之方法所製成之針織 衣物,其特徵為:該等褶邊B i亦具有數個至數十個針織路 程等不同高度,較佳為2至4 0個路程。 1 8. —種根據申請專利範圍第1 2項之方法所製成之針織 衣物,其特徵為:含有該等褶邊Bi的織物區域CA延伸遠達 生殖器。O: \ 65 \ 65659-910416.ptc page 17 487753 _ case number 89Π5926_ year month day__ VI. Application for patent scope 1 2. The method of item 11 of the scope of patent application for the manufacture of tubular objects and its Features include at least one of the following: an initial double bar, followed by an appropriate number of knitting paths, but after a possible second double bar is a final waste; at least partially conforming to a design or pattern and corresponding To produce such knitting distances, according to which the needles extending from less than 360 degrees of the needle cylinder are excluded from the needle thread forming process, preferably staggered needles, such as odd needles, in which the phases are staggered For example, even-numbered needles can still be moved to generate the loop-shaped hem B i in the knitted tube. 1 3. — A knitted garment made according to the method of item 12 of the scope of the patent application, characterized in that it is appropriately designed and implemented at least one elastic band or strip that preferably has two layers and has most frills B i, It is suitable for modifying the shape, contour, size and function of the elastic strip, and even serves as a structural > support. 14. The knitted garment according to item 13 of the scope of patent application, characterized in that the frills Bi are placed on the front CA of the elastic band as DB and SA. 15. The knitted garment according to item 13 of the scope of patent application is characterized in that the frills B i are also located on the rear of the elastic band DB. 16. The knitted garment according to item 13 of the scope of patent application, characterized in that the frills B i are placed on the sides and the buttocks of the elastic band DB. 17. A kind of knitted clothing made according to the method of item 12 of the scope of patent application, characterized in that the frills B i also have different heights, such as several to dozens of knitting distances, preferably 2 To 40 journeys. 1 8. A knitted garment made according to the method of item 12 of the scope of the patent application, characterized in that the fabric area CA containing the frills Bi extends as far as the genitals. O:\65\65659-910416.ptc 第18頁 487753O: \ 65 \ 65659-910416.ptc Page 18 487753 O:\65\65659-910416.ptc 第19頁O: \ 65 \ 65659-910416.ptc Page 19
TW089115926A 2000-07-10 2000-08-08 A method for producing tubular knitwear items provided with zones of three-dimensional fabric, apt to shape and give relief to the structure, the comfort and the specific anatomic containment of the products obtained thereby TW487753B (en)

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TWI650083B (en) * 2015-11-03 2019-02-11 耐克創新有限合夥公司 The upper torso supports the clothes with a flat needle
CN110023549A (en) * 2016-10-07 2019-07-16 德国亚琛工业大学 Method for being knitted three-dimensional knitted fabric

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IT1399443B1 (en) 2010-04-16 2013-04-19 Sidney S R L UNDERGARMENT.
WO2015181716A1 (en) * 2014-05-27 2015-12-03 Santoni S.P.A. Method for manufacturing a weft knit fabric and fabric obtained with the method
US9078488B1 (en) 2014-09-30 2015-07-14 Nike, Inc. Article of footwear incorporating a lenticular knit structure
US9192204B1 (en) 2014-09-30 2015-11-24 Nike, Inc. Article of footwear upper incorporating a textile component with tensile elements
US9375046B2 (en) 2014-09-30 2016-06-28 Nike, Inc. Article of footwear incorporating a knitted component with inlaid tensile elements and method of assembly
US10822728B2 (en) 2014-09-30 2020-11-03 Nike, Inc. Knitted components exhibiting color shifting effects

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GB8521117D0 (en) * 1985-08-23 1985-10-02 Incotex Bv Manufacturing knitted briefs
JP3606692B2 (en) * 1996-11-01 2005-01-05 株式会社ワコール Infant clothing, including for infants

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
TWI650083B (en) * 2015-11-03 2019-02-11 耐克創新有限合夥公司 The upper torso supports the clothes with a flat needle
CN110023549A (en) * 2016-10-07 2019-07-16 德国亚琛工业大学 Method for being knitted three-dimensional knitted fabric

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WO2002004726A1 (en) 2002-01-17

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