ITCO20000018A1 - METHOD FOR THE PRODUCTION OF TUBULAR KNIT ITEMS WITH THREE-DIMENSIONAL KNIT ZONES SUITABLE TO PRODUCE AND ACCENTUATE CONFORMATION THE - Google Patents

Description

Title

Method for the production of tubular knitted items with three-dimensional knitted areas designed to produce and accentuate the conformation, comfort and targeted anatomical containment of the resulting products.

Description

The introduction of circular knitting machines of the "full electronic" type with differentiated diameters has attracted the interest of the textile industry as their versatility allows the production of a wide range of shaped tubular articles including, for example, underpants, bras, brassieres, swimwear, and more.

But due to some inherent technical and textile limitations, such as the lack of knitted areas designed and manufactured in order to adequately implement the functions of conformation, containment and support of anatomical parts such as breasts, buttocks, belly, some of the aforementioned knitted items require laborious additional completion operations by cutting, sewing or targeted padding, which continuously and permanently affect production costs.

Or the aforementioned knitted items are considered to be products of inferior quality since they do not fully satisfy the traditional needs and expectations of customers as regards the comfort and anatomical conformation of the interested parties.

With reference to the products produced with the aforementioned circular machines, the knitwear industry has benefited from the considerable technological developments and updates made by the manufacturers of these textile machines and consequently the articles produced have been gradually modified and made more comfortable and attractive, optimizing in the at the same time the production cycles.

In this regard, there is a considerable technical, commercial and patent documentation from which it is clear, for example, that the individual electronic selection of the needles, together with the electronic regulation of the knitting density, have greatly facilitated the possibility of designing and modeling the manufactured articles. knit in general. The following patents are cited as references: U.S. 3,956,909 - U.S. 3,232,079 - U.S. 3992,903 - U.S. 4,048,819 - U.S. 4,527,403 -U.S. 4,5673,737 - U.S. 4,624,115 - U.S. 4,663,946 - U.S. 4,682,479 - U.S. 5,081,854 -U.S. 5,222,379 - GB 2,179,969 - JP 3137201 - JP 7-6206 - EP 599266

But despite the developments in recent years, some technical-textile limitations remain, which tend to reduce the comfort and general quality of the artifacts mentioned in the introduction.

In the example of known art in fig. 8, the pant 1, seen from the back, is characterized by the usual belt or double elastic edge DB and by the operated mesh area CA, placed between the buttocks, in order to conform the product to the anatomy of the human body.

Said knitted stitch CA is usually obtained with an ordinary stitch design and structure formed by the appropriate combination of normal, elongated and retained stitches or loops, terms known to those skilled in the art.

As far as is known, however, the aforementioned pant 1 is not fully satisfactory since the shape, section and annular development of the aforementioned elastic edge DB do not take into account the complex morphological differences of the human body, while the operated mesh area CA has other limits.

On the one hand, said knitted mesh CA is substantially only flat, therefore not three-dimensional; on the other hand, it only partially satisfies the marked needs of conformation, comfort and support of the anatomical parts involved.

In addition, with regard to the comfort and hygiene of the female genitals in particular, the most diligent textile industry completes the panty in question by sewing an additional piece of three-dimensional fabric in correspondence with them.

The present invention therefore intends to reduce or eliminate to an appreciable extent the aforementioned technical and production limits in order to automatically and advantageously obtain tubular knitted articles having even very different elastic belts or edges, together with specific areas of gradually three-dimensional knitting for greater conformation, containment, anatomical support and support with original production, technical, aesthetic and commercial purposes.

Having said this, a main purpose of the present invention is to provide a method for the production of tubular knitwear, even strongly shaped and shaped, provided at least in part with particular substantially three-dimensional textile weaves, structurally intertwined inside the knitted tube, ( or reverse), produced automatically in accordance with a modified jacquard design, only with variously alternating groups of needles.

Another main purpose is to provide a method for automatically producing knitted items such as panties, bras and the like, provided with defined areas with three-dimensional mesh placed between the breasts or between the buttocks and up to the pelvic region, for greater conformation, containment , support and anatomical support.

An additional purpose is to provide a method for substantially modifying the appearance and annular development of the usual belt or elastic band of the aforementioned knitted articles according to guidelines or profiles designed in accordance with the different anatomical morphologies or more responsive to the innumerable sizes and measurements. of the human body.

Another object is to provide a method for the production of articles supplied with one or more dimensionally more stable jersey zones, in order to implement the functions of targeted anatomical support of the articles in question.

Further objects result from the accompanying description, examples and drawings, on their own or in combination with each other, in addition to the final claims.

The characteristics of the invention and the advantages deriving from it result more clearly from the following description of exemplary embodiments and are advantageously applied to most knitting machines.

These results are easily reached in accordance with the invention and only with the descriptive and non-limiting firs most of the description relates to a single-cylinder "filli electronic" circular machine of the Santoni SM8-8 type.

In a first preferred embodiment, the invention is realized with the preparation of a particular work cycle or jacquard design, that is direct or precluded information to the needles or jacks or other elements competing directly or indirectly with the production of the knit by means of a graphic station or other control and memory devices, or by other means suitable for the purpose.

The present invention envisages in this manufacturing phase the production of knitted items characterized by areas of fabric with differentiated growth caused by the exclusion of a given number of needles, alternating with respect to the adjacent ones, for example 1: 1, or 2: 1 - 2: 2 and the like.

Contrary to the norm, even a substantial part of impulses or commands usually directed to the needles, is not sent to a part of these, according to a defined scheme or program conforming to the original design or work cycle.

This determines the exclusion from the knitting process of needles without inputs or commands; this exclusion, if total and for defined areas, would produce floating wires; in this case these are suitably manipulated with the use of some needles AD in operation, figs. from 1 to 6, duly spaced, with the dual purpose of reducing the length of the floating yarns and creating interesting interlacing of knits, or the three-dimensional flounces Bi, technically and graphically illustrated in figs. 3 - 4. Therefore, in this executive step the invention is realized with areas of jersey knit substantially produced with all the needles and other areas in which, unlike the known techniques, the knitting process is interrupted.

In fact, in these areas the knit produced with the alternating needles remains inside the knitting tube, contributing much more effectively to the anatomical conformation of the product, with respect to the previous technique or known art.

For example, only needles equal to AP or needles in alternating pairs will be excluded; that is, in groups of three in work followed by one or more needles excluded, and so on.

The simultaneous presence of needles in work, for example 1 - 3 -5, etc. , alternating with excluded needles, 2 - 4 - 6, etc., figs. 1- 2- 3- 4- 5 - 6, for defined areas and for a variable time (even relatively long, corresponding to an adequate number of knitting rows), represents the sufficient and necessary premise for the production of a particular mesh, characterized by an additional mesh growth inside the mesh tube. This growth can be easily graduated according to contingent technical-textile factors, such as, for example, the fineness of the machines, the nature and count of the yarns used, the density of the single stitches and so on.

The knitting process continues only with engaged alternating needles and relative loops AD, while the other alternating but disengaged needles still remain linked to the relative last loops AP. This technique makes it possible to produce a substantially closed flounce of knit, with two plies or fabrics Bi, fig. 3 - 4, which is repeatable and variable in height, width and diagonal.

Not only; the composition, density and relief of the aforementioned flounces Bi are contingent factors and variables that substantially affect the degree of conformation, comfort, support and dimensional stability of the mesh and of the product.

In this regard, figure 7 shows from the front a first very schematic arrangement of the aforementioned three-dimensional flounces Bi, arranged horizontally, while the following figures, from 7A to 7H inclusive, illustrate further combinations in which the said flounces Bi gradually take on very shapes and dispositions. differentiated, able to effectively and gradually affect the final aspect of the product.

The figures numbered from 13 to 17 inclusive show in a schematic way the pant 1 whose internal central rear part CA, produced if the case with three-dimensional reliefs even at the same time different or graduated, widens in the lower part to include the genitals, for a greater degree of comfort and protection.

The textile characteristics of the invention are further illustrated in figure 18, where the rear part CA of the pant 1 is characterized by a series of horizontal flounces Bi, graphically different from each other in order to highlight the combinations already partially shown in figs. from 7 to 7H.

Fig. 19 shows in section the same elements present in figure 18; therefore, inside the knitted tube TM, the three-dimensional profiles of the different Bi 1s can be seen, with the elastic edge DB1. The structural stiffening of the knitting area CA produced by the aforementioned internal flounces Bi also falls within the scope of the invention in order to coordinate the local anatomical support functions with the general support functions, as in the case of the bra straps SD -SS. brassiere 1 in fig. 9, or swimsuit, body, dress, and the like. More generally, it should be emphasized that the aforementioned flounces Bi, variously arranged, make the mesh more dimensionally stable, both in the sense of the ranks and in that of the columns or ribs.

The invention is further developed with the embodiment shown in figure 10. Unlike the usual product 1 of fig. 8, the elastic belt DB of fig. 10 shows a marked structural reduction in correspondence with the central part CA, obtained by means of a plurality of suitably graduated internal flounces Bi and placed between the two plies or knitted fabrics. In the present case, during the production of said edge DB, preferably elastic and with two plies, usually obtained with the aid of the hooks or needles of the backing pad or upper needle, (terms known to those skilled in the art, not shown), in accordance with found and in the preceding description, areas of reduced growth are produced inside the knitted tube with only a part of the needles: the aforementioned flounces Bi.

Which, optimally designed and arranged, effectively contribute to:

- modify the banal regularity of the usual DB border along its annular development; - if necessary, conform the new DB edge to the user's physical characteristics; - improve the aesthetic appearance of the product with commercial advantages; - if necessary, graduate Γ extensibility of the DB elastic belt, at will.

Furthermore, the pant 1 of fig.10 is further characterized in the front part SA by the combinations and compositions of the flounces Bi, already illustrated with the figures from 7 to 7H inclusive. According to the present invention, this knitted area SA is specifically designed for additional functions of ventral anatomical support and greater local comfort. Figure 11 illustrates a pant 1 (or other tubular product provided with elastic edge DB) characterized by the different location of the aforementioned flounces Bi, placed in correspondence with the sides. This reduces the production of knit laterally in order to highlight the growth of the DB band in the front, accentuated if necessary by the electronically controlled knitting cams in a selective and targeted way, (terms known to those skilled in the art, not shown ).

Also in this realization, the aforementioned Bi flounces effectively contribute to:

- modify the banal regularity of the usual DB edge along its annular development, - if necessary, conform the new DB edge to the physical characteristics of the user; - improve the aesthetic appearance of the product with commercial advantages, - if necessary, adjust the extensibility of the DB elastic belt in sections and at will. - produce a DB edge with ventral anatomical support functions.

The present description, which is clearly exemplary, provides ample manufacturing margins that can be easily understood by those skilled in the art. The details of execution can vary in an equivalent way in the shape, dimensions and or location, as well as for the nature of the technical and textile materials used, remaining however within the scope of the present patent.

Brief description of the figures

Table 1- Figures 1 - 2- 3- 4- 5 - 6 show technical, graphic and textile diagrams typical of knitting technology referring to the particular arrangement of the needles for the production of the three-dimensional knit flounce Bi. In particular fig. 4 shows in perspective and in a sufficiently realistic way the flounce Bi of figure 3, produced with the needles AD and knitted inside the tube of. TM jersey. The AP needles are excluded from the knitting process and retain their respective last loops. With reference to the three-dimensional reliefs of the flounces Bi, it should be pointed out that they are a function of the number of ranks forming the said flounces Bi, which are widely variable. They can therefore comprise only 3-4 ranks up to one or more tens of ranks for remarkable three-dimensional effects.

Figures 7 to 7H inclusive schematically illustrate only some of the innumerable geometric combinations provided by the invention regarding the positioning of the aforementioned flounces Bi, which, if very close together, produce textile reliefs similar to the known sponge as well as having a more effective effect on the final anatomical shape and conformation. of the artifact. Table 2. Figure 8 shows the panty 1 as an example of prior art, seen from the rear and provided with the usual two-ply elastic belt or band DB together with the rear knitted area CA placed vertically between the buttocks. The elastic belt DB of fig. 10 differs from that in Figure 8 due to the marked structural reduction in correspondence with the central part CA obtained by means of a plurality of suitably graduated internal flounces Bi and placed between the two plies or knitted fabrics. The same technique applied differently produces the result illustrated in fig. 11 due to the location of the aforementioned flounces Bi, placed in correspondence with the sides, in order to underline the growth of the DB band in the front part. The pant 1 of fig. 10 is provided with a front mesh area SA stiffened by variously arranged flounces Bi with important functions of targeted anatomical support. Fig. 9 shows the brassiere - bra 1. Normally the MJ jersey, intrinsically elastic, does not help to lift the chest and much less conforms to it. Therefore, according to the teachings of the invention, the central part CA is produced with a plurality of variously arranged flounces Bi. Consequently, two advantages are obtained at the same time: the anatomical conformation to the breasts and the support of the same with the structural connection of the lower edge DB-3 to the upper edge DB-2 by connecting the central part CA, i.e. dimensionally stable mesh. Table 3. Figure 12 shows as an example of known art the pant 1 provided with the usual two-ply elastic belt or band DB together with the rear area of operated knit CA placed vertically between the buttocks. Figures 13 to 17 schematically show the rear part of the underwear 1, seen from the inside, characterized by longitudinal mesh areas CA that gradually widen downwards to include the genital parts. Said knitted areas CA are covered with flounces Bi, variously arranged according to the invention. Figure 18 shows the rear part CA of the pant 1 characterized by a series of horizontal flounces Bi, graphically different from each other in order to symbolize the possible compositions, partly already shown in figs. from 7 to 7H. Fig. 19 shows in section the same elements present in figure 18; therefore inside the knitted tube TM we can see the three-dimensional profiles of the bil, different from each other and the elastic edge DB1.

Claims (1)

Claims 1- Method for the production of knitted tubular articles such as underpants, brassieres, bras, bodies, dresses, technical articles and the like, preferably provided with one or more two-ply elastic edges, characterized in that said articles are strongly shaped or shaped by means of particular targeted textile weaves or substantially three-dimensional flounces Bi, structurally intertwined inside the knitted tube, (or reverse), produced automatically in accordance with a modified program, design or work cycle. 2- Method according to 1 and other claims characterized by the fact that the knitted flounces Bi interconnected inside the knitted tube TM, figs. 3 - 4, are produced automatically with groups of needles alternating in various ways with disengaged needles which still retain the respective last loops; said needles engaged in mesh areas suitable for anatomically conforming between the breasts or between the buttocks and up to the pelvic region, for greater conformation, containment, support and anatomical support. 3- Method according to 1 and other claims characterized in that the presence of suitable flounces Bi suitably placed inside the belt or double edge DB, substantially modifies the appearance and the annular development of the usual belt or elastic band of the aforementioned knitted articles, according to lines guide or profiles designed in accordance with the different anatomical morphologies or more responsive to the innumerable sizes and measures of the human body. 4- Method according to 1 and other claims characterized in that the aforementioned articles are provided with one or more dimensionally more stable mesh areas due to the aforementioned flounces Bi, also in order to implement the functions of targeted anatomical support of the articles in question. 5- Method according to 1 and other claims characterized by the production of stitches with differentiated growth of rows and loops, or predefined areas, through the exclusion, even partial, of loops and or rows of stitches and the simultaneous production, even partial, of excess stitches or internal flounces Bi, for the programmed deformation of the knitted tube, in accordance with the jacquard design or the relative work cycle. 6- Method according to 1 and other claims for the production of tubular articles characterized by knitting areas with differentiated growth caused by the exclusion of a number of needles, to a reduced extent compared to the totality of the needles present or housed in the shape or cylinder, preferably alternating. with respect to the adjacent ones, such as 1: 1, or 2: 1 - 2: 2 and the like. 7- Method according to 1 and other claims characterized by the fact that contrary to the norm, during the knitting process, even a substantial part of impulses or commands for the needles, is not sent to a part of these, even for a long time, according to a drawing jacquard or a work cycle. 8- Method according to 1 and other claims for the production of tubular articles characterized and comprising at least: a double initial edge followed by an adequate number of rows of knitting up to a possible second double edge followed by a final drawing; said rows of knitting produced at least in part in accordance with a design or motif and relative work cycle according to which a part of needles, preferably alternating, for example the disparities, whose extension is less than 360 degrees of the needle cylinder, is excluded from the knitting process while the other alternating needles, for example the peers, still active, produce loops forming flounces Bi, inside the knitting tube. 9- Knitted articles according to 1 and other claims, characterized by at least one elastic belt or edge preferably with two plies having a plurality of flounces Bi suitably designed and made to modify the shape, profile, dimensions and functions of said edge elastic, also as an anatomical support. 10- Knitted items according to 9 characterized by the fact that said flounces Bi are placed in correspondence with the front part CA of the elastic belt as DB and 11 - Knitted articles according to 10, characterized in that said flounces Bi are also in correspondence with the rear part of the elastic belt DB, fig. 10, 12- Knitted articles according to 9, characterized in that said flounces Bi are placed laterally and on the sides of the elastic belt DB in fig. 11. 13- Knitted articles according to 1 and other claims characterized in that said flounces Bi are also of different heights, from a few rows of knits up to several rows of knits, preferably from 2 to 40 rows. 14- Knitted articles according to 1 and other claims, characterized in that the knit part with flounces Bi, also indicated with CA in figures 13 to 18, extends to preferably also include the genital parts. 15- Method for the production of knitted tubular articles characterized by one or more internal knitted flounces, Bi, substantially closed, with two plies or fabrics, formed by groups of needles alternating variously with other needles temporarily excluded from the process of formation of the sweater. 16- Knitted articles according to the previous description and the preceding claims, produced in accordance with the invention and inferable from the drawings.