ITCO20000017A1 - METHOD AND EQUIPMENT FOR THE PRODUCTION OF KNITTED ITEMS PROVIDED WITH HOUSINGS FOR THE INSERTING THE CONTAINMENT AND THE CONNECTION OF - Google Patents

Description

Title

Method and equipment for the production of knitted articles provided with housings for the insertion, containment and connection of means of support and anatomical conformation and resulting products.

Description

The introduction of circular knitting machines of the "full electronic" type with differentiated diameters has attracted the interest of the textile industry as their versatility allows to produce a wide range of shaped tubular items including, for example, bras, brassieres , dresses, bodìes, swimwear, technical articles and more.

But due to some inherent technical and textile limitations, such as the lack of suitable passages and housings substantially and preferably closed for the insertion and containment of additional support elements and anatomical conformatone, such as the usual underwire placed at the base of the bras , most of the aforementioned knitted items systematically require laborious and costly additional operations of completion by cutting and sewing, with the consequent fabric scraps which affect the production costs continuously and permanently. Or said knitwear items, for example bras, are considered inferior quality products as they do not fully satisfy the traditional needs and expectations of customers as regards the support and anatomical conformation of the interested parties.

As far as is known, a recent patent relates to a knitted bra provided with a support underwire subsequently inserted into a plurality of additional non-continuous knits, along a suitable profile.

However, this solution presents various technical and functional difficulties with results that are not fully satisfactory since the aforementioned underwire is inserted in a series of openings or knit structures, placed on the reverse of the jersey fabric, substantially open and at the origin of the following drawbacks:

- the said underwire is widely visible;

- comes out easily;

- comes into contact with the skin;

- can only be used when wearing the bra with the top on the "right" side.

The present invention intends to reduce or eliminate to an appreciable extent the aforementioned technical and production limits to automatically obtain semi-finished or finished tubular knitted articles, complete with passages and housings for the insertion and containment of the aforementioned support means and anatomical conformation with original purposes production, technical, aesthetic and commercial.

Having said this, a main purpose of the present invention is to provide a method and the relative apparatus for the production of tubular articles, also shaped or shaped, provided with one or more textile tubes structurally entangled inside the knitted tube, (on the reverse side products automatically only with variously alternating groups of needles, for the insertion of additional anatomical support means. Another main purpose is to provide a method and the relative apparatus for the insertion of additional anatomical support means in one or more textile tubes automatically produced with the aid of the hooks or needles of the backing pad and structurally intertwined at the ends or outside the knitted tube. An additional purpose is to provide a method and related equipment for the production of one or more automatically produced textile tubes on which at least one means of sos is subsequently connected or sewn anatomical shape like an underwire itself enclosed in a sheath.

Another additional object is to provide a method for attaching, connecting or sewing at least one anatomical support means such as an underwire enclosed in a sheath, with the aforementioned knitted articles according to suitable guidelines or profiles produced in accordance with a color design or mesh texture. Another object is to provide a method and the related apparatus for the production of articles supplied with one or more dimensionally more stable jersey knit areas, contiguous or adjacent to said knitted tubes, in order to connect and coordinate the anatomical support functions. of the chest towards the shoulder straps and the like.

Further objects result from the accompanying description, examples and drawings, on their own or in combination with each other, in addition to the final claims.

The characteristics of the invention and the advantages deriving from it result more clearly from the following description of exemplary embodiments and are advantageously applied to most of the knitting machines.

These results are easily reached in accordance with the invention and for descriptive and non-limiting purposes only, most of the description concerns a single-cylinder circular machine of the "foli electronic" type of the Santoni SM8-8 type.

In a first preferred embodiment, the invention is realized with the preparation of a work cycle or jacquard design, i.e. information directed to the needles or jacks or other elements directly or indirectly competing with the production of the knit by means of a graphics station or other control devices and memory or by known means suitable for the purpose taking into account, at least in part, the teachings of the writer's Italian patent no. 1255008, partially illustrated in figs. 1 - 2 - 3. Among other things, this patent contemplates the production of knitted items characterized by areas of fabric with differentiated growth caused by the exclusion of a given number of needles, alternating with respect to the adjacent ones, for example 1: 1, or 2: 1 - 2: 2 and the like. Contrary to the norm, even a substantial part of impulses or commands usually directed to the needles, is not sent to a part of these, according to a defined scheme or program conforming to the original design.

This determines the exclusion from the knitting process of the needles without inputs or commands; this exclusion, if total and with defined areas, would produce floating wires; in this case these are suitably manipulated with the use of some needles AD in operation, fig. 3, duly spaced, with the dual purpose of reducing the length of the floating yarns and creating interesting interlacing of knits, that is the three-dimensional flounces Bi, fig. 3.

Therefore the invention is made with a jersey knitted fabric produced only with a part of the needles present in the areas or zones concerned. As an example, only the needles even AP or needles in alternating pairs will be excluded; that is, in groups of three in work followed by one or more needles excluded, and so on.

The simultaneous presence of needles in work, for example 1 - 3 -5, etc. , alternating with excluded needles, 2 - 4 - 6, etc., figs. 1- 2- 3- 4- 6, for defined areas and for a relatively long time (corresponding to an adequate number of knitting rows), represents the sufficient and necessary premise for the production of a knitted fabric formed by needles in work and related loops AD but interrupted and still intertwined with the excluded needles and loops AP, in order to produce a substantially closed knit flounce, with two plies or fabrics Bi, fig. 3, which is repeatable and variable in height, width and diagonal.

Figure 7 shows a schematic embodiment of the invention from the front: in the center of the normal jersey knit MJN, seen from the reverse, there is a darker three-dimensional knit area in the shape of a semicircle indicated with MJAA, produced with a reduced number of needles, variously alternating.

This is the internal flounce generally indicated with Bi in the various figures, intended to contain the overlying underwire Y or other similar support element or anatomical conformation.

With particular reference to the ends of the flounce Bi, it should be noted that the insertion of the aforementioned underwire Y is facilitated both by the intrinsic elasticity of the knit and by the possibility of designing an opening of variable dimensions, in relation to the number of needles engaged or not at the purpose, figs. 2- 6.

Furthermore, as regards the presence of more improved mesh openings, reference should be made to the patent of the writer no. CO-2000- AOOOO 12, which we intend to refer to here also in relation to the present description.

Fig. 7A shows in section the same elements present in figure 7; therefore inside the knitted tube TM you can see the three-dimensional profile of the Bil ruffle. The purposes of the invention also include structural stiffening of the knitting area JDS, fig. 17, surrounding the internal flounce Bi (to which the underwire Y is lodged intact) for the purpose (fi coordinating the local anatomical support functions of the underwire Y with the general support functions of the predictable bra straps, swimsuit, body, dress , shirt-bra and the like.

In practice, the support and lifting finishes of the Y underwire are further accentuated by the adjacent JDS mesh according to the arrows FI - F2.

The knitting area indicated with JDS is made up of one or more rows of dimensionally stable or warp-knit stitches, i.e. characterized by the simultaneous presence of normal or elongated stitches, retained stitches and bridles, terms known to those skilled in the art, in addition to any use of thermosetting or heat shrinkable yarns, or others suitable for the purpose.

Or, and preferably, from a plurality of suitably arranged flounces Bi. Therefore knit structures or weaves of the type described with variable densities controlled electronically via computer by the relative motorized knitting cams (not shown), together with the possible use of other yarns, for example adherent yarns, or capable of gradually melting and interlocking to adjacent loops or links during the subsequent hot finishing phase.

Finally, figure 17A shows a side view of the previous one with the underwire Y1 inserted in the internal flounce Bi1 inside the knitted tube TM.

The present invention develops further with the embodiment illustrated in Figures 9 - 10 - 10A. For the purposes of the invention it should be specified that the shape, the materials and the section of the aforementioned underwire (Y seen from the front in figure 8, or indicated with Y1 in fig. 8 A), are substantially irrelevant technical characteristics, subject to be modified in the presence of contingent variables, together with production needs and conditioning. For example, said underwire Y can be provided with one or more holes suitably arranged to facilitate subsequent fastening to the knit by means of the sewing operation. Another object of the invention is the presence and functions of an underwire Y which is in turn enclosed in a sheath L, preferably of textile material, figs. 9 - 10 - 10A.

Regardless of other embodiments of the present invention and of the many shapes that can be assumed by the underwire Y in question, the presence of the sheath L is advantageous for fastening, connecting or joining preferably by sewing, the same with the aforementioned internal flounce Bi. In the embodiment shown in FIG. 10, the sheath L is therefore sewn onto the flounce Bi placed inside the knitted tube TM, in correspondence with the arrow F. In this case, the flounce Bi modifies its original function of container assuming instead that of base or support.

The further embodiment shown in Fig. 10A is characterized by the fact that the sheath L, provided in the case under consideration of an appendage or lip, is fixed or sewn to the knitted tube (inside or outside it) in accordance with the design or profile present on the shirt.These are guidelines obtained by designing a suitable design or jacquard motif of color or structure.

The arrows F3 - F4 therefore indicate two different ways of fixing the sheath L on the link. Fig. 16 shows in a wider and more complete way the article 1 having the ferrules Y inserted in the relative flounces Bi and with the ends directed upwards according to the direction of the arrows F7. According to the invention, the anatomical support functions of the underwire Y are taken up and accentuated by suitable knitted structures placed in correspondence with the shoulder straps SD -SS.

Fig. 18 shows laterally an article 1, also provided with shoulder straps SD - SS operating with the underwire Y inserted in the flounce Bi, or otherwise fixed to the knit according to the invention.

Another preferred embodiment of the present invention concerns the presence of the ferrules Y inserted or fixed to an article having the general characteristics of the brassiere 1, illustrated in fig. 11 as an example of known art.

Note the usual bands or edges with two elastic plies 2 and 3, the additional straps SD -% SS and the conformation between the breasts 4. The knit between the aforementioned edges 2 and 3 is generally made of MJ jersey whose intrinsic elasticity it represents a notable handicap in the hypothetical function of supporting the chest.

For this purpose, in accordance with the invention it is first appropriate to model the generally rectangular shape of the article 1 in fig. 12, in correspondence with the areas indicated with A - B - C, on which action is taken in various ways:

- reducing the density of the single links by means of the known motorized mesh cams; - reducing the number of working needles;

- producing knits with differentiated growth such as the aforementioned Bi flounces.

These interventions cause the structural transformation of the product 1 of fig. 12, ne! product 1 of fig. 13 on the mesh areas already indicated with A- B- C - FI - F2.

Said areas are then produced with FFT-woven or FFI-woven flowing yarns; or with weaves of the warp-knitted type IND; with retained stitches PT, with alternating needle stitch MAA, and finally with the described technique of the flounces Bi. The two-ply edges indicated by 2 and 3 in fig. 12 are usually produced with the aid of all the hooks or needles of the backing pad (not shown, turners known to those skilled in the art, or with the needles of the cylinder only.

According to the present invention, only a part of the hooks or needles of the backing pad are additionally used for the production of suitable knitted tubes adapted to house the aforementioned Y-wires, ie for about 180 °, fig. 14 and 14B.

Alternatively, the annular edges 2 and 3 are replaced by an initial (and or final) knitted tube produced with only the needles of the cylinder, hence a fixed selection of alternating needles. Fig. 14, Bi - 2 - 3 and fig. 14A, 2 - 2A.

In addition to the aforementioned complete annular knitted edges or tubes, the invention also claims the production of partial knitted edges and tubes, preferably for about 180 ° corresponding to the front part of the article.

In fig. 15 schematically shows the product 1 characterized by three-dimensional mesh structures Bi and by the presence of the wires Y suitable for modeling and conforming to a remarkable extent the contours of the breasts. Bi2 and Bi3 indicate the partial knitted tubes in correspondence with the front part of the article 1, produced in accordance with the invention, figs. 1- 2- 3 - 6. As regards the said tubes Bi2 and Bi3 it must be specified that they are produced at the beginning and at the end of the product 1 similarly to the bands or edges 2 and 3 of figures 11 to 14 included.

The details of execution can vary in an equivalent way in the shape, dimensions and or location, as well as for the nature of the technical and textile materials used, remaining however within the scope of the present patent.

Brief description of the figures

Table 1- Figures 1 - 2- 3- 4- 5 - 6 show technical diagrams and graphics typical of knitting technology referring to the particular arrangement of the needles for the production of the three-dimensional knit flounce Bì.

Figure 7 frontally shows some textile details such as the closed flounce Bi, produced with jersey knit with alternating needles MJAA, placed in the center of the jersey knit MIN, for the subsequent insertion of the overlying Y underwire.

Fig. 7A is a sectional view of the previous one: the ruff already Bi, knitted to the knitted tube TM, becomes Bil.

Table 2. Figure 17 is a variant of 7: it shows the underwire Y housed inside the flounce Bi and a dimensionally very stable knitting area indicated with JDS able to actively compete with the functions of the aforementioned underwire Y for anatomical support upwards, i.e. according to the arrows FI - F2, ideally towards the shoulder pads. Fig. 17A is a sectional view of the previous one: inside the flounce Bi1, the section of the underwire Yl can be seen. Fig. 9 shows in section the underwire Y1 completely covered by the lip sheath L, which, subsequently imitates the flounce Bi placed inside the knitted tube TM, in fig. 10, performs its anatomical support functions in a different way. Alternatively, the sheath L can be fixed directly on the link in the configurations illustrated in fig. 10A.

Table 3. Fig. 11 shows the brassiere or pectoral band 1 as an example of known art. Figures 12 to 1S inclusive, schematically show the evolution of the original product 1 which is structurally shaped with interventions on the mesh areas A-B-C-FI-F2 while the two-ply annular edges 2 and 3, both whole and partial , house the Y wires.

As an alternative to said edges 2 and 3, knitted tubes are also produced for about 180 °, having the characteristics of the aforementioned flounces Bi. Finally, figures 16 and 18 show the articles 1 on which the local support functions of the Y ferrets are implemented by suitable mesh structures directed towards the SD-S straps.

Claims (1)

Claims 1 Method for the production of knitted tubular articles such as brassieres, bras, bodies, dresses, technical articles and the like, characterized by the fact that said aiticles are supplied with one or more textile tubes structurally linked to the knitted tube, automatically produced with groups of needles alternating in various ways with disengaged needles, for the insertion of additional means of conformation, support and anatomical support. 2- Method according to 1 and other claims, characterized in that one or more continuous annular knitted tubes are also produced with the aid of the hooks or needles of the backing pad and also entangled at the ends or edges of the knitted tube. 3 - Method according to 1 - 2 and other claims, characterized by the fact that said knitted tubes, even partial ones, are produced only in correspondence with the front part of the product, therefore with additional and reduced use, preferably for about 180 ° , of the hooks or needles of the pad. 4- Method according to 1 and other claims characterized by the fact that at least a part of said knitted tubes is produced with the needles of the cylinder and the aid of the needles of the backing pad or other needle bed, or with only the needles of the cylinder to produce internal flounces with the fixed selection of a part of alternating needles. 5 - Method according to 1 and other claims characterized by the fact that said knitted tubes also perform guide and support functions on which an underwire enclosed in its sheath L is fixed, fig. 10. 6- Method according to 1 and other claims, characterized in that at least one underwire or other anatomical support element, preferably enclosed in one of its sheaths L, is fixed and preferably sewn on at least one flounce Bi -Bi1. Fig. 10. 7- Method according to 1 and other claims, characterized by the fact that the sheath L, provided with at least one appendage or lip, is fixed or sewn to the knitted tube (inside or outside it) in accordance with the design or profile present on the knit, or according to guidelines obtained through the design and implementation of a suitable design or jacquard motif in color and or structure. 8- Method according to 1 and other claims, characterized by the fact that the aforementioned articles are provided with one or more dimensionally more stable knitting areas around said knitted tubes in order to implement and coordinate the local support functions of the underwires with the functions general support of the shoulder pads. Figs. 16 - 17. 9- Circular machine for the production of knitted articles, according to claim 1 and following, characterized by and comprising at least: a needle bed or cylinder rotating against stationary cams or vice versa; a * complete working feed equipped with one or more yarn guides, also movable; the selection of the needles, preferably electronic, adapted to govern the elements concurrent to the formation of the stitch according to a work cycle and or jacquard design; the knitting cams which can also be adjusted individually with the aid of the computer; a command needle tongue-opening device; a fabric suction or pulling system; also equipped with a suitable backing pad provided with needles or hooks that can also be selected in part, in addition to the usual pneumatic device for suction and cutting the threads. 10- Equipment or means of conformation, support and anatomical support, such as the aforementioned ferrules Y and the like, according to the preceding claims, also characterized by the fact of being enclosed in suitable sheaths L suitable for being fixed to the aforementioned articles. 11- Knitted articles according to the previous description and the claims, produced in accordance with the invention and inferable from the drawings