WO2013030257A2 - Knitwear item, or a portion thereof, and related fabrication method - Google Patents

Knitwear item, or a portion thereof, and related fabrication method Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2013030257A2
WO2013030257A2 PCT/EP2012/066828 EP2012066828W WO2013030257A2 WO 2013030257 A2 WO2013030257 A2 WO 2013030257A2 EP 2012066828 W EP2012066828 W EP 2012066828W WO 2013030257 A2 WO2013030257 A2 WO 2013030257A2
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
needle
knitted fabric
stitches
stitch
needle bed
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2012/066828
Other languages
French (fr)
Other versions
WO2013030257A3 (en
Inventor
Luciano BENETTON
Giuliana Benetton
Original Assignee
Bencom S.R.L.
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Bencom S.R.L. filed Critical Bencom S.R.L.
Priority to EP12761714.0A priority Critical patent/EP2748360B1/en
Priority to ES12761714.0T priority patent/ES2645201T3/en
Publication of WO2013030257A2 publication Critical patent/WO2013030257A2/en
Publication of WO2013030257A3 publication Critical patent/WO2013030257A3/en

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/246—Upper torso garments, e.g. sweaters, shirts, leotards
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/03—Shape features
    • D10B2403/033—Three dimensional fabric, e.g. forming or comprising cavities in or protrusions from the basic planar configuration, or deviations from the cylindrical shape as generally imposed by the fabric forming process

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a knitwear item, or a portion thereof, and to a method of fabricating it at industrial level.
  • Some garments after being put one, have creases or smears at the breast point and/or underarm region, with considerable reduction of their aesthetic value.
  • the knitted fabric is often subject to undesirable stretching at the breast point, due to the structural tensions to which the knitted fabric is subjected with use. Naturally, these deformations cause aesthetic deterioration of the knitwear garment, often until its replacement becomes necessary.
  • knitwear garments available on the market are shaped in such a manner as to adhere to the user's body but are not very comfortable to wear and somewhat unsuitable for larger physiques, above all as regards the bust and the breasts.
  • the present invention intends to meet the needs indicated above by providing a knitwear item, or a portion thereof, according to claim 1 and the related dependent claims, set forth below.
  • the knitwear item, or a portion thereof, according to the invention comprises a pectoral region, configured to be worn at the user's chest, in which there are defined a central zone and two side zones that are substantially symmetric with respect to said central zone.
  • Each of the aforesaid side zones comprises a lower portion and an upper portion, having knitted fabric with modified interlacing with respect to the rest of the item, or a portion thereof.
  • the knitted fabric of the lower portion of each of said side zones comprises a plurality of stitches that are doubled and set in adjacent position at a series of rows in the direction of said upper portion, so as to obtain a widening of the same knitted fabric.
  • the knitted fabric of the upper portion of each of said side zones comprises a plurality of stitches set overlapped at a series of rows, in the distal direction from said lower portion, so as to obtain a narrowing of the same knitted fabric.
  • the present invention relates to a method of fabricating, at industrial level, the aforesaid knitwear item, or a portion thereof, according to claim 6 and the related dependent claims, set forth below.
  • the method provides for the use of a two needle bed knitting apparatus, preferably rectilinear, comprising a first needle bed and a second needle bed for fabricating the knitted fabric.
  • the method comprises the steps of fabricating, for each of the side zones of the pectoral region of the knitwear item, a lower portion and an upper portion, having knitted fabric with modified interlacing with respect to the rest of the item, or a portion thereof.
  • the knitted fabric of the lower portion of each of said side zones comprises a plurality of stitches that are doubled and set in adjacent position at a series of rows in the direction of said upper portion, so as to obtain a widening of the knitted fabric.
  • the knitted fabric of the upper portion of each of said side zones comprises a plurality of stitches set overlapped at a series of rows, in the distal direction from said lower portion, so as to obtain a narrowing of the knitted fabric.
  • Fig. 1 is a schematic representation of an embodiment of the knitwear item, or a portion thereof, according to the invention
  • Fig. 2 is a further schematic representation of an embodiment of the knitwear item, or a portion thereof, according to the invention.
  • - Fig. 3 is a schematic representation of the knitted fabric at a side zone of the pectoral region of the knitwear item, or a portion thereof, according to the invention
  • - Fig. 4 is a schematic representation of the knitted fabric at a lower portion of a side zone of the pectoral region of the knitwear item, or a portion thereof, according to the invention
  • - Fig. 5 is a schematic representation of the knitted fabric at an upper portion of a side zone of the pectoral region of the knitwear item, or a portion thereof, according to the invention
  • FIG. 6-9 are schematic representations of some steps of a method for fabricating the knitwear item, or a portion thereof, according to the invention.
  • the present invention relates to a knitwear item 1 , or a portion thereof.
  • the knitwear item 1 the type and style of which can be any, according to needs, comprises a pectoral region 2 configured to be worn at the user's chest.
  • the pectoral region 2 comprises a central zone 21 , substantially positioned at the user's breastbone, and two side zones 22, 23, arranged substantially symmetric with respect to the central zone 21 and positioned at the user's breasts.
  • the side zones 22 and 23 each comprise a lower portion 221, 231 and an upper portion 222, 232.
  • direction of development of the knitwear item this term is intended as a reference direction oriented from the lower portion to the upper portion of the user's bust (direction SI in Figs.
  • this term is intended as a length of yarn, in general folded in the form of a loop about a needle of a knitting apparatus, during fabrication of the knitted fabric. The interlacing of several stitches causes the formation of the knitted fabric;
  • this term is intended as a horizontal series of stitches of the knitted fabric. In other words, it is intended as a series of stitches that extends in a manner substantially crosswise with respect to the direction SI;
  • this term is intended as a vertical series of stitches of the knitted fabric, In other words, it is intended as a series of stitches that extends substantially along the direction S 1 ;
  • needle bed this term is intended as an element to support and guide the needles in a knitting apparatus;
  • needle position the position occupied by a stitch at a needle bed
  • widening direction of the knitted fabric this term is intended as a direction along which the stitches of the rows are translated to widen the knitted fabric (direction Dl in Figs. 3-9).
  • the widening direction Dl In the fabrication of the lower portion 231, the widening direction Dl is oriented from left to right (Figs. 3-9). In the fabrication of the lower portion 221, the widening direction Dl will be oriented in the opposite direction, from right to left;
  • narrowing direction of the knitted fabric this term is intended as the direction along which the stitches of the rows are translated to narrow the knitted fabric (direction D2 in Figs. 3- 9).
  • the narrowing direction D2 is oriented from right to left (Figs. 3-9).
  • the narrowing direction is oriented in the opposite direction, from left to right.
  • the side zones 21 and 22 of the pectoral region 2 also comprise a mid portion 223, 233, positioned substantially at the user's breast point, represented schematically by the axis 200 of Fig. 2.
  • each side zone 22, 23 is positioned symmetrically with respect to the mid portions 223, 233, according to the direction S 1.
  • the knitted fabric thereof advantageously comprises a series of rows RC with width corresponding to the width of the last row RL of the knitted fabric of the lower portion 221, 231 (Fig. 3).
  • the number of rows RC, overlapped according to a distal direction from lower portion 221, 231 (coincident with the direction SI), can vary, according to needs.
  • each side zone 22, 23 are characterised by the fact that is has a knitted fabric with modified interlacing with respect to the rest of the knitwear item 1, in particular to the central zone 21 of the pectoral region 2 or other regions of the knitwear item 1 (Fig. 3).
  • the knitted fabric of the lower portion 221, 231 comprises a plurality of stitches Al, Y, XI, Yl that are doubled and set in adjacent position at a series of rows Rl, R2, Rl ', R2' in the direction of the upper portion 222, 232 (also coincident with the direction SI).
  • interlacing of the knitted fabric of the lower portion 221, 231 is advantageously modified so that new columns of stitches originate from the points in which formation of the doubled stitches occurs to be developed in the subsequent rows, overlapped according to the direction S 1.
  • Insertion of a new column of stitches determines setting (translation) of the columns of subsequent stitches, according to the direction Dl .
  • the positioning of points in which to modify the interlacing of the knitted fabric to obtain the doubled stitches can be chosen according to needs.
  • the knitted fabric of the lower portion 221, 231 is fabricated according to predefined sequences of rows, repeated according to the direction SI .
  • the knitted fabric of the lower portion 221, 231 comprises one or more pairs Tl, T2 of rows overlapped according to the direction SI (Fig. 4).
  • a first row Rl, Rl ' comprises a first pair of stitches (Al, Y in the row Rl) that are doubled and set in adjacent position, according to the direction Dl .
  • Each of the pairs of rows Tl, T2 also comprises a second row R2, R2' overlapped with row Rl, Rl ' in the direction SI and comprising a second pair of stitches (XI, Yl in the row R2) that are doubled and set in adjacent position, according to the direction Dl .
  • the knitted fabric of the lower portion 221, 231 comprises a first pair Tl of rows, a second pair T2 of rows and one or more mid rows Rl between the first pair Tl and the second pair T2, overlapped according to the direction SI .
  • the mid rows Rl have a width corresponding to the second row R2 of the first pair Tl and their number can vary according to needs.
  • one or more third rows can be inserted between the rows Rl, Rl ' and R2, R2'.
  • Each of the aforesaid third rows preferably has a width corresponding to that of the row Rl, Rl '.
  • the knitted fabric of the upper portion 222, 232 comprises a plurality of stitches A2, B, Bl, C set overlapped at a series of rows R4 in the direction SI (Fig. 5).
  • the overlapping of several stitches in the rows R4 determines a reduction of the extension thereof and therefore a narrowing of the knitted fabric.
  • Interlacing of the knitted fabric of the upper portion 222, 232 is in practice modified so as to eliminate columns of stitches at points in which the stitches are set overlapped.
  • Elimination of a column of stitches determines setting (translation) of the preceding columns of stitches, according to the direction D2.
  • Narrowing of the knitted fabric can thus be obtained at points of the knitted fabric that are distant from the side edges of the upper portion 222, 232.
  • Positioning of the points in which to modify interlacing of the knitted fabric of the upper portion 222, 232 can be chosen according to needs.
  • the knitted fabric of the upper portion 222, 232 is fabricated according to predefined sequences of rows.
  • the knitted fabric of the upper portion 222, 232 comprises at least one sequence of rows constituted by a fourth row R4, comprising two third pairs A2, B and Bl, C of stitches set overlapped, and one or more fifth rows R5 in the direction SI , with width corresponding to the width of the fourth row R4.
  • the present invention relates to a method of fabricating, at industrial level, the knitwear item, or a part thereof.
  • the method provides for the use of a two needle bed knitting apparatus, preferably of rectilinear type.
  • the aforesaid knitting apparatus comprises a first needle bed Fl and a second needle bed F2.
  • the knitted fabric is knitted with a plain knitting process.
  • the first needle bed Fl and the second needle bed F2 correspond respectively to the front and rear needle bed of the knitting apparatus.
  • the knitted fabric could also be knitted with a purl knitting process.
  • the first needle bed Fl and the second needle bed F2 correspond respectively to the rear and front needle bed of the knitting apparatus.
  • the needles of the needle beds Fl and F2 are needles of the latch or compound type and are operatively positioned so as to form pairs of opposite needles capable of cooperating with each other to braid the yarn and manipulate the stitches of the knitted fabric.
  • the method comprises the steps 101 and 102 of fabricating, for each of said side zones 22, 23, the lower portion 221, 231 and the upper portion 222, 232, which are realized as described above.
  • the method also comprises a step (not illustrated) of fabricating, for each of the side zones 22, 23, the mid portion 223, 233.
  • the knitted fabric of the mid portion 223, 233 advantageously comprises a series of consecutive rows RC, overlapped in the direction SI, with width corresponding to the width of the last row (RL in Fig. 3) of the knitted fabric of the lower portion 221, 231.
  • the portions 221, 231 and 222, 232 are advantageously fabricated simultaneously by the knitting apparatus, according to the method that will be described, during fabrication of the knitwear item 1.
  • the step 101 of fabricating the lower portion 221, 231 comprises the step i) of fabricating a first row Rl having a plurality of N stitches that occupy respective needle positions at the first needle bed Fl .
  • the needles of the needle bed Fl are occupied by the stitches of the row Rl while the needles of the needle bed F2 are free.
  • the step 101 provides for the step ii) of selecting a first stitch A in the row Rl, which occupies, at the first needle bed Fl, a first reference needle position PI;
  • the row Rl, just as the first stitch A, and the related needle position PI of this latter, can be selected according to the fabrication needs of the knitwear item 1.
  • the step 101 also provides for the step iii) of selecting second stitches Z in the row Rl, which occupy, at the needle bed Fl, the adjacent needle positions Pz that follow the first needle position PI, according to the direction Dl (to the right).
  • the step 101 then provides for the step iv) of performing the doubling of the stitch A in a first doubled stitch Al and in a second doubled stitch Y.
  • the doubled stitch Al is positioned so as to occupy the needle position PI at the needle bed Fl while the doubled stitch Y is moved in the needle bed F2, so as to occupy the same needle position PI .
  • the step 101 provides for the step v) of moving the second stitches Z in the needle bed F2.
  • the stitches Z are positioned so as to occupy, at the needle bed F2, the adjacent positions Pz that follow the needle position PI, according to the direction Dl .
  • the stitches Z are moved so as to occupy, in the needle bed F2, the same needle positions that they occupied at the needle bed Fl .
  • the step 101 provides for the step vi) of moving in the needle bed Fl the doubled stitch Y and the subsequent stitches Z, by performing a first translation Kl of one needle position, according to the direction Dl (to the right).
  • the stitches Y and Z, thus moved, are positioned in the needle bed Fl so as to occupy the adjacent needle positions Pz that follow the needle position PI, in the direction Dl .
  • the stitch Y will occupy the needle position immediately to the right of the needle position PI while the stitches Z will be positioned so as to be decreased to the right of a needle position, with respect to the start of the sequence of steps i)-vi).
  • the row Rl comprises N+l stitches given that, at the needle position Pz immediately following the needle position PI , according to the direction Dl, the doubled stitch Y has been inserted.
  • the knitted fabric of the lower portion 231 preferably comprises pairs Tl, T2 of rows, at of each of which consecutive rows Rl and R2 comprise pairs of stitches that are doubled and set in adjacent positions.
  • the step 101 comprises the step vii) of fabricating, according to the direction SI, a second row R2 which has the same width as the row Rl, after the completion of the steps i)-vi) of the step 101.
  • the row R2 initially comprises a plurality of N+l stitches that occupy respective needle positions at the needle bed Fl .
  • the needles of the needle bed Fl are therefore occupied by the stitches of the row R2 while the needles of the needle bed F2 are free.
  • the step 101 provides for the step viii) of selecting a third stitch X in the row R2, which occupies, at the needle bed Fl, a second reference needle position P2.
  • the needle position P2 can also be selected according to the fabrication needs of the knitwear item 1.
  • the step 101 provides for the step ix) of selecting fourth stitches Zl in the row R2.
  • the stitches Zl occupy, at the needle bed Fl, the adjacent needle positions Pzi that follow the needle position P2, in the direction Dl .
  • the step 101 provides for the step x) of performing the doubling of the stitch X in a third doubled stitch XI and in a fourth doubled stitch Yl .
  • the doubled stitch XI is positioned so as to occupy the needle position P2, at the needle bed Fl while the doubled stitch Yl is moved in the needle bed F2 so as to occupy the same needle position P2.
  • the step 101 then comprises the step xi) of moving the fourth stitches Zl in the needle bed F2, so as to occupy, at this latter, the adjacent needle positions Pzi that follow the needle position P2, in the direction Dl .
  • the step 101 then comprises the step xii) of moving, in the needle bed Fl, the fourth doubled stitch Yl and the fourth stitches Zl, by performing a second translation K2 of one needle position in direction Dl (to the right).
  • the stitches Yl and Zl are thus positioned so as to occupy, at the needle bed Fl, the adjacent needle positions Pzi that follow the needle position P2, according to the direction Dl .
  • the stitch Yl will occupy the needle position immediately to the right of the needle position P2 while the stitches Zl will be decreased to the right of a needle position, with respect to the start of the sequence of steps vii)-xii).
  • the row R2 comprises N+2 stitches, as the doubled stitch Yl has been inserted, at the needle position P Z i immediately following the needle position P2, according to the direction Dl .
  • each sequence of steps i)-xii) enables the fabrication of a pair Tl, T2 of rows comprising stitches that are doubled and set in adjacent positions.
  • the step 101 preferably provides for the step xiii) (not illustrated) of fabricating one or more mid rows RI, according to the direction SI (figure 4).
  • the mid rows RI has a width corresponding to the width (N+2 stitches) of the row R2, after the completion of the preceding steps vii)-xii).
  • the number of the mid rows RI can vary according to the fabrication needs of the knitwear item 1.
  • steps i)-xiii) of the step 101 can advantageously be repeated one or more times, until the completion of the lower portion 231.
  • new reference positions PI and P2 at which to modify interlacing of the knitted fabric of the lower portion 231, can be taken into consideration.
  • the selection of new reference positions PI and P2 can be made, for example, as a function of the type of decorative pattern to be fabricated in the lower portion 231.
  • the translations Kl and K2, sustained by the stitches of the knitted fabric are preferably of one needle position, according to the direction Dl (to the right).
  • steps i)-xiii), illustrated above, can be performed in a different order to that indicated. Some steps can also be performed simultaneously, i.e. with a same operation of the needles of the knitting apparatus, according to needs.
  • the step 102 of fabricating the upper portion 232 comprises the step i) of fabricating a fourth row R4 having a plurality of M stitches that occupy corresponding needle positions at the needle bed Fl .
  • the needles of the needle bed Fl are occupied by the stitches of the row R4 while the needles of the needle bed F2 are free.
  • step 102 then provides for the following steps II)-V), respectively of:
  • the reference positions P3 and P4 can be selected according to the fabrication needs of the knitwear item 1.
  • the step 102 comprises the step VI) of moving in the needle bed F2 the stitches A2, Bl and B. These stitches are positioned so as to occupy, at the needle bed F2, respectively the needle position P3, the needle position P4 and the adjacent needle positions P B comprised between the needle positions P3 and P4.
  • the step 102 comprises the step VII) of moving in the needle bed Fl the stitches B and Bl, performing a third translation K3 of one needle position in the direction D2 (to the left). Consequently, the stitches B and Bl occupy, at the needle bed Fl, the needle position P3 and the adjacent needle positions P B that precede it, according to the direction D2.
  • a stitch B will occupy the needle position P3 while the stitch Bl, which previously occupied the needle position P4, occupies, following the aforesaid translation K3, a fifth reference needle position P5, at the needle bed Fl .
  • the needle positions of the needle bed Fl are not all occupied.
  • the needle position P4 remains free due to the translation K3 of the stitches B and Bl, according to the direction D2.
  • the step 102 comprises the step VIII) of once again moving the stitch Bl so that it occupies the needle position P5, at the needle bed F2.
  • the step 102 comprises the step IX) of moving the stitches C in the needle bed F2.
  • the stitches C are positioned so as to occupy, in the needle bed F2, the same adjacent needle positions Pc that precede the needle position P4, according to the direction D2.
  • the step 102 comprises the step X) of moving the stitches C in the needle bed Fl , performing a fourth translation K4 of two needle positions, in the direction D2.
  • the stitches C are thus positioned so as to occupy, at the needle bed Fl, the needle position P5 and the adjacent needle positions that precede it, according to the direction D2, including the needle position P4.
  • the step 102 then provides for the step XI) of moving in the needle bed Fl the stitch A2, so that this latter is positioned overlapped with the stitch B that occupies the reference needle position P3, at the needle bed Fl .
  • the step 102 also provides for the step XII) of moving in the needle bed Fl the stitch Bl, so that this latter is positioned overlapped with the stitch C that occupies the reference needle position P5, at the needle bed Fl .
  • the steps I)-XII enable narrowing of the knitted fabric of the upper portion 222, 232, at the points P3 and P5 of the row R4.
  • the row R4 comprises M-2 stitches, positioned at the needle bed Fl .
  • the step 101 preferably provides for the step XIII), not illustrated, of fabricating one or more fifth rows R5, according to the direction SI (figure 5).
  • the rows R5 have a width corresponding to the width (M-2 stitches) of the row R4, after the completion of the previous steps I)-XII), and their number can vary, according to the fabrication needs of the knitwear item 1.
  • steps I)-XIII) of the step 102 can advantageously be repeated one or more times, until the completion of the upper portion 232.
  • new reference positions P3, P4 and P5 at which to modify interlacing of the knitted fabric can be taken into consideration.
  • the selection of the new reference positions P3, P4 and P5, can be made, for example, as a function of the type of decorative pattern to be fabricated in the upper portion 232.
  • the translations K3 and K4, sustained by the stitches of the knitted fabric differ from each other, one needle position for the translation K3, two needle positions for the translation K4, according to the direction D2 (to the left).
  • steps I)-XIII), illustrated above, can be performed in different order to that indicated. Some steps can also be performed simultaneously, according to needs.
  • the knitwear item 1 has, at specific portions of the pectoral region 2, a knitted fabric with modified interlacing so as to better adapt to variations in the depth of the user's bust, typical of the pectoral region.
  • the knitwear item 1 thus ensures a high level of fit at the pectoral region, while simultaneously being very comfortable for the user.
  • the knitwear item 1 can be fabricated by means of a fabrication method easily implemented at industrial level, by means of knitting apparatus of known type.
  • the knitwear item 1 is therefore easy to fabricate at industrial level, at competitive costs.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
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Abstract

The invention relates to a knitwear item, or a portion thereof, comprising a pectoral region configured to be placed at the user's chest, in which there is defined a central zone and two side zones substantially symmetric with respect to said central zone. Each of said side zones comprises a lower portion and an upper portion, having knitted fabric with modified interlacing. In a further aspect thereof, the invention relates to a method of fabricating, at industrial level,the aforesaid knitwear item, or a portion thereof.

Description

KNITWEAR ITEM, OR A PORTION THEREOF, AND RELATED FABRICATION
METHOD DESCRIPTION
The present invention relates to a knitwear item, or a portion thereof, and to a method of fabricating it at industrial level.
As it is known, current fashion trends require knitwear items to have exceptional fit, i.e. high capacity to adapt to the shape of the user's body.
In many cases, knitwear garments currently available on the market do not yet offer a satisfactory level of fit, above all with regard to the upper portion of the user's bust.
Some garments, after being put one, have creases or smears at the breast point and/or underarm region, with considerable reduction of their aesthetic value.
In other models, the knitted fabric is often subject to undesirable stretching at the breast point, due to the structural tensions to which the knitted fabric is subjected with use. Naturally, these deformations cause aesthetic deterioration of the knitwear garment, often until its replacement becomes necessary.
Other knitwear garments available on the market are shaped in such a manner as to adhere to the user's body but are not very comfortable to wear and somewhat unsuitable for larger physiques, above all as regards the bust and the breasts.
In the clothing sector, in particular that of clothing intended for a female public, there is still a great need to provide knitwear garments that are able to draw attention to and/or enhance the curves of the body, in particular of the upper portion of the bust and of the breasts, at the same time offering the user a high level of comfort.
The present invention intends to meet the needs indicated above by providing a knitwear item, or a portion thereof, according to claim 1 and the related dependent claims, set forth below.
In a general definition thereof, the knitwear item, or a portion thereof, according to the invention, comprises a pectoral region, configured to be worn at the user's chest, in which there are defined a central zone and two side zones that are substantially symmetric with respect to said central zone.
Each of the aforesaid side zones comprises a lower portion and an upper portion, having knitted fabric with modified interlacing with respect to the rest of the item, or a portion thereof.
According to the invention, the knitted fabric of the lower portion of each of said side zones comprises a plurality of stitches that are doubled and set in adjacent position at a series of rows in the direction of said upper portion, so as to obtain a widening of the same knitted fabric.
According to the invention, the knitted fabric of the upper portion of each of said side zones comprises a plurality of stitches set overlapped at a series of rows, in the distal direction from said lower portion, so as to obtain a narrowing of the same knitted fabric. In a further aspect thereof, the present invention relates to a method of fabricating, at industrial level, the aforesaid knitwear item, or a portion thereof, according to claim 6 and the related dependent claims, set forth below.
The method, according to the invention, provides for the use of a two needle bed knitting apparatus, preferably rectilinear, comprising a first needle bed and a second needle bed for fabricating the knitted fabric.
The method, according to the invention, comprises the steps of fabricating, for each of the side zones of the pectoral region of the knitwear item, a lower portion and an upper portion, having knitted fabric with modified interlacing with respect to the rest of the item, or a portion thereof.
According to the invention, the knitted fabric of the lower portion of each of said side zones comprises a plurality of stitches that are doubled and set in adjacent position at a series of rows in the direction of said upper portion, so as to obtain a widening of the knitted fabric.
According to the invention, the knitted fabric of the upper portion of each of said side zones comprises a plurality of stitches set overlapped at a series of rows, in the distal direction from said lower portion, so as to obtain a narrowing of the knitted fabric.
Further characteristics and advantages will be more apparent from the description of preferred but non-exclusive embodiments of the present invention, illustrated by way of non-limiting example with the aid of the accompanying drawings, wherein:
- Fig. 1 is a schematic representation of an embodiment of the knitwear item, or a portion thereof, according to the invention;
- Fig. 2 is a further schematic representation of an embodiment of the knitwear item, or a portion thereof, according to the invention;
- Fig. 3 is a schematic representation of the knitted fabric at a side zone of the pectoral region of the knitwear item, or a portion thereof, according to the invention; - Fig. 4 is a schematic representation of the knitted fabric at a lower portion of a side zone of the pectoral region of the knitwear item, or a portion thereof, according to the invention;
- Fig. 5 is a schematic representation of the knitted fabric at an upper portion of a side zone of the pectoral region of the knitwear item, or a portion thereof, according to the invention;
- Figs. 6-9 are schematic representations of some steps of a method for fabricating the knitwear item, or a portion thereof, according to the invention.
With reference to the aforesaid figures, the present invention relates to a knitwear item 1 , or a portion thereof.
The knitwear item 1, the type and style of which can be any, according to needs, comprises a pectoral region 2 configured to be worn at the user's chest.
The pectoral region 2 comprises a central zone 21 , substantially positioned at the user's breastbone, and two side zones 22, 23, arranged substantially symmetric with respect to the central zone 21 and positioned at the user's breasts. The side zones 22 and 23 each comprise a lower portion 221, 231 and an upper portion 222, 232.
For the sake of clarity, some terms that will be used hereunder for the description of the present invention are set down briefly below:
direction of development of the knitwear item: this term is intended as a reference direction oriented from the lower portion to the upper portion of the user's bust (direction SI in Figs.
1-2);
stitch: this term is intended as a length of yarn, in general folded in the form of a loop about a needle of a knitting apparatus, during fabrication of the knitted fabric. The interlacing of several stitches causes the formation of the knitted fabric;
row: this term is intended as a horizontal series of stitches of the knitted fabric. In other words, it is intended as a series of stitches that extends in a manner substantially crosswise with respect to the direction SI;
column: this term is intended as a vertical series of stitches of the knitted fabric, In other words, it is intended as a series of stitches that extends substantially along the direction S 1 ; needle bed: this term is intended as an element to support and guide the needles in a knitting apparatus;
needle position: the position occupied by a stitch at a needle bed;
widening direction of the knitted fabric: this term is intended as a direction along which the stitches of the rows are translated to widen the knitted fabric (direction Dl in Figs. 3-9). In the fabrication of the lower portion 231, the widening direction Dl is oriented from left to right (Figs. 3-9). In the fabrication of the lower portion 221, the widening direction Dl will be oriented in the opposite direction, from right to left;
narrowing direction of the knitted fabric: this term is intended as the direction along which the stitches of the rows are translated to narrow the knitted fabric (direction D2 in Figs. 3- 9). In the fabrication of the upper portion 232, the narrowing direction D2 is oriented from right to left (Figs. 3-9). In the fabrication of the upper portion 222, the narrowing direction is oriented in the opposite direction, from left to right.
Preferably, the side zones 21 and 22 of the pectoral region 2 also comprise a mid portion 223, 233, positioned substantially at the user's breast point, represented schematically by the axis 200 of Fig. 2.
Preferably, the lower 221, 231 and upper 222, 232 portions of each side zone 22, 23 are positioned symmetrically with respect to the mid portions 223, 233, according to the direction S 1.
Given that the mid portion 223, 233 is positioned at the zone of maximum depth of the user's chest, the knitted fabric thereof advantageously comprises a series of rows RC with width corresponding to the width of the last row RL of the knitted fabric of the lower portion 221, 231 (Fig. 3).
The number of rows RC, overlapped according to a distal direction from lower portion 221, 231 (coincident with the direction SI), can vary, according to needs.
The lower 221, 231 and upper 222, 232 portions of each side zone 22, 23 are characterised by the fact that is has a knitted fabric with modified interlacing with respect to the rest of the knitwear item 1, in particular to the central zone 21 of the pectoral region 2 or other regions of the knitwear item 1 (Fig. 3).
According to the invention (Fig. 4), the knitted fabric of the lower portion 221, 231 comprises a plurality of stitches Al, Y, XI, Yl that are doubled and set in adjacent position at a series of rows Rl, R2, Rl ', R2' in the direction of the upper portion 222, 232 (also coincident with the direction SI).
The formation of stitches that are doubled and set in adjacent position determines a widening of the knitted fabric, at the points in which interlacing of the knitted fabric is modified to obtain the same doubled stitches.
In other words, interlacing of the knitted fabric of the lower portion 221, 231 is advantageously modified so that new columns of stitches originate from the points in which formation of the doubled stitches occurs to be developed in the subsequent rows, overlapped according to the direction S 1.
Insertion of a new column of stitches determines setting (translation) of the columns of subsequent stitches, according to the direction Dl .
From the above, it is evident that widening of the knitted fabric can be performed at points distant from the side edges of the lower portion 221 , 231.
It should be noted how this distinctive characteristic constitutes an evident differentiation with respect to knitwear items of known type, in which widening of the knitted fabric is typically performed at the ends of the rows, simply by means of adding stitches.
The positioning of points in which to modify the interlacing of the knitted fabric to obtain the doubled stitches can be chosen according to needs.
Given that the points, in which interlacing of the knitted fabric is modified, are generally visible also to an observer not skilled in the art, their positioning can be selected to design decorative patterns on the knitted fabric, for example of rectilinear type, as shown in Figs. 1-2, or shaped to draw attention to the outline of the user's breasts.
Preferably, the knitted fabric of the lower portion 221, 231 is fabricated according to predefined sequences of rows, repeated according to the direction SI .
In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the knitted fabric of the lower portion 221, 231 comprises one or more pairs Tl, T2 of rows overlapped according to the direction SI (Fig. 4).
In each of the pairs of rows Tl, T2, a first row Rl, Rl ' comprises a first pair of stitches (Al, Y in the row Rl) that are doubled and set in adjacent position, according to the direction Dl .
Each of the pairs of rows Tl, T2 also comprises a second row R2, R2' overlapped with row Rl, Rl ' in the direction SI and comprising a second pair of stitches (XI, Yl in the row R2) that are doubled and set in adjacent position, according to the direction Dl .
Preferably, the knitted fabric of the lower portion 221, 231 comprises a first pair Tl of rows, a second pair T2 of rows and one or more mid rows Rl between the first pair Tl and the second pair T2, overlapped according to the direction SI .
The mid rows Rl have a width corresponding to the second row R2 of the first pair Tl and their number can vary according to needs.
In alternative embodiments of the present invention (not illustrated), one or more third rows can be inserted between the rows Rl, Rl ' and R2, R2'. Each of the aforesaid third rows preferably has a width corresponding to that of the row Rl, Rl '.
According to the invention, the knitted fabric of the upper portion 222, 232 comprises a plurality of stitches A2, B, Bl, C set overlapped at a series of rows R4 in the direction SI (Fig. 5).
The overlapping of several stitches in the rows R4 determines a reduction of the extension thereof and therefore a narrowing of the knitted fabric.
Interlacing of the knitted fabric of the upper portion 222, 232 is in practice modified so as to eliminate columns of stitches at points in which the stitches are set overlapped.
Elimination of a column of stitches determines setting (translation) of the preceding columns of stitches, according to the direction D2.
Narrowing of the knitted fabric can thus be obtained at points of the knitted fabric that are distant from the side edges of the upper portion 222, 232.
Also this distinctive characteristic constitutes an evident differentiation with respect to knitwear items of known type, in which narrowing of the knitted fabric is performed typically by means of elimination of stitches at the ends of the rows.
Positioning of the points in which to modify interlacing of the knitted fabric of the upper portion 222, 232 can be chosen according to needs.
Given that the points in which the interlacing of the knitted fabric is modified are generally visible, positioning thereof can be selected to design decorative patterns on the knitted fabric, according to needs.
Preferably, the knitted fabric of the upper portion 222, 232 is fabricated according to predefined sequences of rows.
In a preferred embodiment, the knitted fabric of the upper portion 222, 232 comprises at least one sequence of rows constituted by a fourth row R4, comprising two third pairs A2, B and Bl, C of stitches set overlapped, and one or more fifth rows R5 in the direction SI , with width corresponding to the width of the fourth row R4.
Several sequences comprising the rows R4, R5 can advantageously be overlapped, in the direction SI, according to needs. Each of these sequences can have a different number of rows R5, according to needs.
In a further aspect thereof, the present invention relates to a method of fabricating, at industrial level, the knitwear item, or a part thereof.
The method, according to the invention, provides for the use of a two needle bed knitting apparatus, preferably of rectilinear type.
The aforesaid knitting apparatus comprises a first needle bed Fl and a second needle bed F2.
Preferably, the knitted fabric is knitted with a plain knitting process. In this case, the first needle bed Fl and the second needle bed F2 correspond respectively to the front and rear needle bed of the knitting apparatus.
The knitted fabric could also be knitted with a purl knitting process. In this case, the first needle bed Fl and the second needle bed F2 correspond respectively to the rear and front needle bed of the knitting apparatus.
Preferably, the needles of the needle beds Fl and F2 are needles of the latch or compound type and are operatively positioned so as to form pairs of opposite needles capable of cooperating with each other to braid the yarn and manipulate the stitches of the knitted fabric.
The method, according to the invention, comprises the steps 101 and 102 of fabricating, for each of said side zones 22, 23, the lower portion 221, 231 and the upper portion 222, 232, which are realized as described above.
Preferably, the method, according to the invention, also comprises a step (not illustrated) of fabricating, for each of the side zones 22, 23, the mid portion 223, 233.
As illustrated above, the knitted fabric of the mid portion 223, 233 advantageously comprises a series of consecutive rows RC, overlapped in the direction SI, with width corresponding to the width of the last row (RL in Fig. 3) of the knitted fabric of the lower portion 221, 231.
The steps 101 and 102 of fabricating the lower 221, 231 and upper 222, 232 portions of the method, according to the invention, will now be described in greater detail.
In the following description, specific reference will be made to fabricating the lower portion 231 and the upper portion 232 of the side zone 23 (Figs. 6-9).
Analogous considerations are valid for fabricating the lower portion 221 and the upper portion 222 of the side zone 22, taking account of the opposite orientations of the directions D1/D2 of widening/narrowing of the knitted fabric.
The portions 221, 231 and 222, 232 are advantageously fabricated simultaneously by the knitting apparatus, according to the method that will be described, during fabrication of the knitwear item 1.
According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention (Fig. 6), the step 101 of fabricating the lower portion 221, 231 comprises the step i) of fabricating a first row Rl having a plurality of N stitches that occupy respective needle positions at the first needle bed Fl .
Initially, the needles of the needle bed Fl are occupied by the stitches of the row Rl while the needles of the needle bed F2 are free.
The step 101 provides for the step ii) of selecting a first stitch A in the row Rl, which occupies, at the first needle bed Fl, a first reference needle position PI;
The row Rl, just as the first stitch A, and the related needle position PI of this latter, can be selected according to the fabrication needs of the knitwear item 1.
The step 101 also provides for the step iii) of selecting second stitches Z in the row Rl, which occupy, at the needle bed Fl, the adjacent needle positions Pz that follow the first needle position PI, according to the direction Dl (to the right).
The step 101 then provides for the step iv) of performing the doubling of the stitch A in a first doubled stitch Al and in a second doubled stitch Y.
The doubled stitch Al is positioned so as to occupy the needle position PI at the needle bed Fl while the doubled stitch Y is moved in the needle bed F2, so as to occupy the same needle position PI .
The step 101 provides for the step v) of moving the second stitches Z in the needle bed F2. The stitches Z are positioned so as to occupy, at the needle bed F2, the adjacent positions Pz that follow the needle position PI, according to the direction Dl .
In practice, the stitches Z are moved so as to occupy, in the needle bed F2, the same needle positions that they occupied at the needle bed Fl .
In this manner, all the stitches of the row Rl, positioned downstream (i.e. to the right) of the reference needle position PI, are moved from the needle bed Fl to the needle bed F2, according to the direction Dl .
The step 101 provides for the step vi) of moving in the needle bed Fl the doubled stitch Y and the subsequent stitches Z, by performing a first translation Kl of one needle position, according to the direction Dl (to the right).
The stitches Y and Z, thus moved, are positioned in the needle bed Fl so as to occupy the adjacent needle positions Pz that follow the needle position PI, in the direction Dl .
The stitch Y will occupy the needle position immediately to the right of the needle position PI while the stitches Z will be positioned so as to be decreased to the right of a needle position, with respect to the start of the sequence of steps i)-vi). It should be noted that, after the completion of the step vi), the row Rl comprises N+l stitches given that, at the needle position Pz immediately following the needle position PI , according to the direction Dl, the doubled stitch Y has been inserted.
The steps i)-vi), described above, therefore enable a widening of the knitted fabric of the lower portion 231, at the needle position P 1 of the row Rl .
As illustrated above, the knitted fabric of the lower portion 231 preferably comprises pairs Tl, T2 of rows, at of each of which consecutive rows Rl and R2 comprise pairs of stitches that are doubled and set in adjacent positions.
Preferably (Fig. 7), the step 101 comprises the step vii) of fabricating, according to the direction SI, a second row R2 which has the same width as the row Rl, after the completion of the steps i)-vi) of the step 101.
Therefore, the row R2 initially comprises a plurality of N+l stitches that occupy respective needle positions at the needle bed Fl .
The needles of the needle bed Fl are therefore occupied by the stitches of the row R2 while the needles of the needle bed F2 are free.
The step 101 provides for the step viii) of selecting a third stitch X in the row R2, which occupies, at the needle bed Fl, a second reference needle position P2.
The needle position P2 can also be selected according to the fabrication needs of the knitwear item 1.
Preferably, the needle position P2 is selected so that the relation P2=Pl+3 is valid, taking as reference the direction Dl .
The step 101 provides for the step ix) of selecting fourth stitches Zl in the row R2.
The stitches Zl occupy, at the needle bed Fl, the adjacent needle positions Pzi that follow the needle position P2, in the direction Dl .
The step 101 provides for the step x) of performing the doubling of the stitch X in a third doubled stitch XI and in a fourth doubled stitch Yl .
The doubled stitch XI is positioned so as to occupy the needle position P2, at the needle bed Fl while the doubled stitch Yl is moved in the needle bed F2 so as to occupy the same needle position P2.
The step 101 then comprises the step xi) of moving the fourth stitches Zl in the needle bed F2, so as to occupy, at this latter, the adjacent needle positions Pzi that follow the needle position P2, in the direction Dl .
In this way, all the stitches of the row R2, positioned downstream (i.e. to the right) of the needle position P2, are moved from the needle bed Fl to the needle bed F2, according to the direction Dl .
The step 101 then comprises the step xii) of moving, in the needle bed Fl, the fourth doubled stitch Yl and the fourth stitches Zl, by performing a second translation K2 of one needle position in direction Dl (to the right).
The stitches Yl and Zl are thus positioned so as to occupy, at the needle bed Fl, the adjacent needle positions Pzi that follow the needle position P2, according to the direction Dl .
The stitch Yl will occupy the needle position immediately to the right of the needle position P2 while the stitches Zl will be decreased to the right of a needle position, with respect to the start of the sequence of steps vii)-xii).
The steps vii)-xii), described above, enable a further widening of the knitted fabric of the lower portion 231 , at the reference needle position P2 of the row R2.
After the completion of the step xii), in fact, the row R2 comprises N+2 stitches, as the doubled stitch Yl has been inserted, at the needle position PZi immediately following the needle position P2, according to the direction Dl .
It should be noted that each sequence of steps i)-xii) enables the fabrication of a pair Tl, T2 of rows comprising stitches that are doubled and set in adjacent positions.
In order to alternate the pairs of rows Tl and T2, the step 101 preferably provides for the step xiii) (not illustrated) of fabricating one or more mid rows RI, according to the direction SI (figure 4).
The mid rows RI has a width corresponding to the width (N+2 stitches) of the row R2, after the completion of the preceding steps vii)-xii).
The number of the mid rows RI can vary according to the fabrication needs of the knitwear item 1.
The cycle of steps i)-xiii) of the step 101, described above, can advantageously be repeated one or more times, until the completion of the lower portion 231.
At each cycle, a widening of 2 stitches of the knitted fabric will advantageously be obtained.
At each cycle, moreover, new reference positions PI and P2, at which to modify interlacing of the knitted fabric of the lower portion 231, can be taken into consideration. The selection of new reference positions PI and P2 can be made, for example, as a function of the type of decorative pattern to be fabricated in the lower portion 231. Finally, it should be noted that in the step 101 the translations Kl and K2, sustained by the stitches of the knitted fabric, are preferably of one needle position, according to the direction Dl (to the right).
The steps i)-xiii), illustrated above, can be performed in a different order to that indicated. Some steps can also be performed simultaneously, i.e. with a same operation of the needles of the knitting apparatus, according to needs.
According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention (Figs. 8-9), the step 102 of fabricating the upper portion 232 comprises the step i) of fabricating a fourth row R4 having a plurality of M stitches that occupy corresponding needle positions at the needle bed Fl .
Initially, the needles of the needle bed Fl are occupied by the stitches of the row R4 while the needles of the needle bed F2 are free.
The step 102 then provides for the following steps II)-V), respectively of:
- selecting a fifth stitch A2 in the row R4, said fifth stitch occupying, at the needle bed Fl, a third reference needle position P3;
- selecting a sixth stitch Bl in the row R4, said sixth stitch occupying, at the first needle bed Fl, a fourth reference needle position P4 that precedes the reference needle position P3, according to the direction D2;
- selecting seventh stitches B in the row R4, said seventh stitches occupying, at the needle bed Fl, the adjacent needle positions PB comprised between the needle positions P3 and P4;
- selecting eighth stitches C in the row R4, said eighth stitches occupying, at the needle bed Fl, the adjacent needle positions PC that precede the needle position P3, according to the direction D2.
The reference positions P3 and P4 can be selected according to the fabrication needs of the knitwear item 1.
Preferably, the reference needle position P4 is selected so that the relation P4=P3-3 is valid, taking as reference the direction D2.
The step 102 comprises the step VI) of moving in the needle bed F2 the stitches A2, Bl and B. These stitches are positioned so as to occupy, at the needle bed F2, respectively the needle position P3, the needle position P4 and the adjacent needle positions PB comprised between the needle positions P3 and P4.
The step 102 comprises the step VII) of moving in the needle bed Fl the stitches B and Bl, performing a third translation K3 of one needle position in the direction D2 (to the left). Consequently, the stitches B and Bl occupy, at the needle bed Fl, the needle position P3 and the adjacent needle positions PB that precede it, according to the direction D2.
A stitch B will occupy the needle position P3 while the stitch Bl, which previously occupied the needle position P4, occupies, following the aforesaid translation K3, a fifth reference needle position P5, at the needle bed Fl .
The fifth reference needle position P5 immediately follows the reference needle position P4, according to the relation P5=P4+1, taking as reference the direction D2.
It should be noted that after the completion of the step VII), the needle positions of the needle bed Fl are not all occupied.
In fact, the needle position P4 remains free due to the translation K3 of the stitches B and Bl, according to the direction D2.
The step 102 comprises the step VIII) of once again moving the stitch Bl so that it occupies the needle position P5, at the needle bed F2.
The step 102 comprises the step IX) of moving the stitches C in the needle bed F2.
The stitches C are positioned so as to occupy, in the needle bed F2, the same adjacent needle positions Pc that precede the needle position P4, according to the direction D2.
In this way, all the stitches of the row R4, positioned upstream (i.e. to the right) of the reference needle position P4, are moved from the needle bed Fl to the needle bed F2, according to the direction D2.
The step 102 comprises the step X) of moving the stitches C in the needle bed Fl , performing a fourth translation K4 of two needle positions, in the direction D2.
The stitches C are thus positioned so as to occupy, at the needle bed Fl, the needle position P5 and the adjacent needle positions that precede it, according to the direction D2, including the needle position P4.
The step 102 then provides for the step XI) of moving in the needle bed Fl the stitch A2, so that this latter is positioned overlapped with the stitch B that occupies the reference needle position P3, at the needle bed Fl .
Finally, the step 102 also provides for the step XII) of moving in the needle bed Fl the stitch Bl, so that this latter is positioned overlapped with the stitch C that occupies the reference needle position P5, at the needle bed Fl .
The steps I)-XII), described above, enable narrowing of the knitted fabric of the upper portion 222, 232, at the points P3 and P5 of the row R4. After the completion of the steps I)-XII), in fact, the row R4 comprises M-2 stitches, positioned at the needle bed Fl .
To alternate the rows R4, at which to modify interlacing of the knitted fabric, the step 101 preferably provides for the step XIII), not illustrated, of fabricating one or more fifth rows R5, according to the direction SI (figure 5).
The rows R5 have a width corresponding to the width (M-2 stitches) of the row R4, after the completion of the previous steps I)-XII), and their number can vary, according to the fabrication needs of the knitwear item 1.
The cycle of steps I)-XIII) of the step 102, described above, can advantageously be repeated one or more times, until the completion of the upper portion 232.
At each cycle, a narrowing of two stitches of the knitted fabric will advantageously be obtained.
Moreover, at each cycle, new reference positions P3, P4 and P5 at which to modify interlacing of the knitted fabric, can be taken into consideration.
The selection of the new reference positions P3, P4 and P5, can be made, for example, as a function of the type of decorative pattern to be fabricated in the upper portion 232.
It should be noted, in this case, that in the step 102 the translations K3 and K4, sustained by the stitches of the knitted fabric, differ from each other, one needle position for the translation K3, two needle positions for the translation K4, according to the direction D2 (to the left).
The steps I)-XIII), illustrated above, can be performed in different order to that indicated. Some steps can also be performed simultaneously, according to needs.
It has been seen how in practice the knitwear item 1 , or a portion thereof, according to the invention, enables the set task and objects to be achieved.
The knitwear item 1 has, at specific portions of the pectoral region 2, a knitted fabric with modified interlacing so as to better adapt to variations in the depth of the user's bust, typical of the pectoral region.
The knitwear item 1 thus ensures a high level of fit at the pectoral region, while simultaneously being very comfortable for the user.
The knitwear item 1 can be fabricated by means of a fabrication method easily implemented at industrial level, by means of knitting apparatus of known type.
The knitwear item 1 is therefore easy to fabricate at industrial level, at competitive costs.

Claims

A knitwear item (1), or a portion thereof, comprising a pectoral region (2) configured to be worn at the user's chest, said pectoral region comprising a central zone (21) and two side zones (22, 23) that are substantially symmetric with respect to said central zone, characterised in that each of said lateral zones comprises a lower portion (221, 231) and an upper portion (222, 232) having a knitted fabric with modified interlacing with respect to the rest of the knitwear item,
the knitted fabric of said lower portion comprising a plurality of stitches (Al, Y, XI, Yl) that are doubled and set in adjacent position at a series of rows (Rl, R2, Rl ', R2'), in the direction (SI) of said upper portion, so as to obtain a widening of the knitted fabric;
the knitted fabric of said upper portion comprising a plurality of stitches (A2, B, Bl, C) set overlapped at a series of rows (R4), in the distal direction (SI) from said lower portion, so as to obtain a narrowing of the knitted fabric.
A knitwear item, or a portion thereof, according to claim 1 , characterised in that each of said side zones comprises a mid portion (223, 233), positioned between said lower portion and said upper portion, the knitted fabric of said mid portion comprising a series of rows (RC), in the distal direction (SI) from said lower portion, with a width corresponding to the width of the last row (RL) of the knitted fabric of said lower portion.
A knitwear item, or a portion thereof, according to one or more of the previous claims, characterised in that the knitted fabric of said lower portion (221, 231) comprises at least a couple (Tl, T2) of rows formed by:
a first row (Rl, Rl ') comprising a plurality of stitches (Al, Y) that are doubled and set in adjacent position;
a second row (R2, R2'), overlapped with said first row in the direction (SI) of said upper portion and comprising a plurality of stitches (XI, Yl) that are doubled and set in adjacent position.
A knitwear item, or a portion thereof, according to claim 3, characterised in that the knitted fabric of said lower portion comprises a sequence of rows formed by:
a first couple (Tl) of rows comprising said first and second row (Rl, R2);
a second couple (T2) of rows comprising said first and second row (Rl ', R2'); a series of mid rows (Rl) that separates said first couple (Tl) of rows from said second couple (T2) of rows in the direction (SI) of said upper portion, said mid rows (RI) having a width corresponding to the width of the second row (R2) of said first couple (Tl) of rows .
A knitwear item, or a portion thereof, according to one or more of the previous claims, characterised in that the knitted fabric of said upper portion (222, 232) comprises a sequence of rows comprising:
a fourth row (R4) comprising a plurality of stitches (A2, B, Bl, C) set overlapped;
one or more fifth rows (R5), overlapped with said fourth row in the distal direction (SI) from said lower portion, with a width corresponding to the width of said fourth row.
Method for fabricating a knitwear item, or a portion thereof, by means of a two needle bed knitting apparatus, comprising a first needle bed (Fl) and a second needle bed (F2), said knitwear item comprising a pectoral region (2) configured to be worn at the user's chest, said pectoral region comprising a central zone (21) and two side zones (22, 23) that are substantially symmetric with respect to said central zone, characterised in that it comprises the steps (101, 102) of fabricating, for each of said side zones, a lower portion (221, 231) and an upper portion (222, 232), having a knitted fabric with modified interlacing with respect to the rest of the knitwear item, the knitted fabric of said lower portion comprising a plurality of stitches (Al, Y, XI, Yl) that are doubled and set in adjacent position at a series of rows (Rl, R2), in the direction (SI) of said upper portion, so as to obtain a widening of the knitted fabric;
the knitted fabric of said upper portion comprising a plurality of stitches (A2, B, Bl, C) set overlapped at a series of rows (R4), in the distal direction (SI) from said lower portion, so as to obtain a narrowing of the knitted fabric.
Method, according to claim 6, characterised in that it comprises the step of fabricating, for each of said side zones (22, 23), a mid portion (223, 233), positioned between said lower portion and said upper portion, the knitted fabric of said mid portion comprising a series of rows (RC), in the distal direction (SI) from said lower portion, with a width corresponding to the width of the last row (RL) of the knitted fabric of said lower portion.
Method, according to one or more of the claims from 6 to 7, characterised in that the step (101) of fabricating said lower portion (221, 231) comprises the following steps: i) fabricating a first row (Rl) having a plurality of stitches that occupy corresponding needle positions at said first needle bed (Fl);
ii) selecting a first stitch (A) in said first row (Rl), said first stitch occupying, at said first needle bed (Fl), a first reference needle position (PI);
iii) selecting second stitches (Z) in said first row (Rl), said second stitches occupying, at said first needle bed (Fl), the adjacent needle positions (Pz) that follow said first reference needle position (PI), in the widening direction (Dl) of the knitted fabric;
iv) performing the doubling of said first stitch (A) in a first doubled stitch (Al) and in a second doubled stitch (Y), said first doubled stitch (Al) occupying said first reference needle position (PI) at said first needle bed (Fl), said second doubled stitch being moved in said second needle bed (F2) so as to occupy said first reference needle position (PI), at said second needle bed (F2); v) moving said second stitches (Z) in said second needle bed (F2), so as to occupy, at said second needle bed (F2), the adjacent needle positions (Pz) that follow said first reference needle position (PI), in the widening direction (Dl) of the knitted fabric;
vi) moving said second doubled stitch (A2) and said second stitches (Z) in said first needle bed (Fl), by performing a first translation (Kl) of one needle position in the widening direction (Dl) of the knitted fabric, so as to occupy, at said first needle bed (Fl), the adjacent needle positions (Pz) that follow said first reference needle position (PI), in the widening direction (Dl) of the knitted fabric.
9. Method, according to claim 8, characterised in that the step (101) of fabricating said lower portion (221, 231) comprises the following further steps:
vii) fabricating a second row (R2), overlapped with said first row in the direction (SI) of said upper portion, said second row having a width corresponding to the width of said first row (Rl), after the completion of said steps i)-vi), and comprising a plurality of stitches that occupy corresponding needle positions at said first needle bed (Fl);
viii) selecting a third stitch (X) in said second row (R2), said third stitch occupying, at said first needle bed (Fl), a second reference needle position (P2); ix) selecting fourth stitches (Zl) in said second row (R2), said fourth stitches occupying, at said first needle bed (Fl), the adjacent needle positions (Pzi) that follow said second reference needle position (P2), in the widening direction (Dl) of the knitted fabric;
x) performing the doubling of said third stitch (X) in a third doubled stitch (XI) and in a fourth doubled stitch (Yl), said third doubled stitch (XI) occupying said second reference needle position (P2) at said first needle bed (Fl), said fourth doubled stitch (XI) being moved in said second needle bed (F2) so as to occupy said second reference needle position (P2), at said second needle bed (F2);
xi) moving said fourth stitches (Zl) in said second needle bed (F2), so as to occupy at said second needle bed (F2), the adjacent needle positions (Pzi) that follow said second reference needle position (P2), in the widening direction (Dl) of the knitted fabric;
xii) moving said fourth doubled stitch (Yl) and said fourth stitches (Zl) in said first needle bed (Fl), by performing a second translation (K2) of one needle position in the widening direction (Dl) of the knitted fabric, so as to occupy, at said first needle bed (Fl), the adjacent needle positions (Pzi) that follow said second reference needle position (P2), in the widening direction (Dl) of the knitted fabric.
10. Method, according to claim 9, characterised in that the step (101) of fabricating said lower portion (221, 231) comprises the following further step:
xiii) fabricating a set of mid rows (RI), in the direction (SI) of said upper portion, said mid rows (RI) having a width corresponding to the width of said second row (R2), after the completion of said steps vii)-xiii).
11. Method, according to one or more of the claims from 6 to 10, characterised in that the step (102) of fabricating said upper portion (222, 232) comprises the following steps:
I) fabricating a fourth row (R4) having a plurality of stitches that occupy corresponding needle positions at said first needle bed (Fl);
II) selecting a fifth stitch (A2) in said fourth row (R4), said fifth stitch occupying, at said first needle bed (Fl), a third reference needle position (P3);
III) selecting a sixth stitch (Bl) in said fourth row (R4), said sixth stitch occupying, at said first needle bed (Fl), a fourth reference needle position (P4) that precedes said third reference needle position (P3) in the narrowing direction (D2) of the knitted fabric;
IV) selecting seventh stitches (B) in said fourth row (R4), said seventh stitches occupying, at said first needle bed (Fl), the adjacent needle positions (PB) comprised between said third reference needle position (P3) and said fourth reference needle position (P4);
V) selecting eighth stitches (C) in said fourth row (R4), said eighth stitches occupying, at said first needle bed (Fl), the adjacent needle positions (Pc) that precede said fourth reference needle position (P4), in the narrowing direction (D2) of the knitted fabric;
VI) moving said fifth stitch (A2), said sixth stitch (Bl) and said seventh stitches (B) in said second needle bed (F2), so as to occupy, at said second needle bed (F2), said third reference needle position (P3), said fourth reference needle position (P4) and the adjacent needle positions (PB) comprised between said third reference needle position (P3) and said fourth reference needle position (P4), respectively;
VII) moving said seventh stitches (B) and said sixth stitch (Bl) in said first needle bed (Fl), by performing a third translation (K3) of one needle position in the narrowing direction (D2) of the knitted fabric, so as to occupy, at said first needle bed (Fl), said third reference needle position (P3) and the adjacent needle positions (PB) that precede said third reference needle position, in the narrowing direction (D2) of the knitted fabric, said sixth stitch (Bl) occupying, after said third translation, a fifth reference needle position (P5), at said first needle bed (Fl);
VIII) moving said sixth stitch (Bl) in said second needle bed (F2), so as to occupy said fifth reference needle position (P5) at said second needle bed (F2);
IX) moving said eighth stitches (C) in said second needle bed (F2), so as to occupy, at said second needle bed (F2), the adjacent needle positions (Pc) that precede said fourth reference needle position (P4), in the narrowing direction (D2) of the knitted fabric;
X) moving said eight stitches (C) in said first needle bed (Fl), by performing a fourth translation (K4) of two needle positions in the narrowing direction (D2) of the knitted fabric, so as to occupy, at said first needle bed (Fl), said fifth reference needle position (P5) and the adjacent needle positions (P4, Pc) that precede said fifth reference needle position, in the narrowing direction (D2) of the knitted fabric;
XI) moving said fifth stitch (A2) in said first needle bed (Fl), so that said fifth stitch is set overlapped with the stitch (B) that occupies said third reference needle position (P3), at said first needle bed (Fl);
XII) moving said sixth stitch (Bl) in said first needle bed (Fl) so that said sixth stitch is set overlapped with the stitch (C) that occupies said fifth reference needle position (P5), at said first needle bed (Fl).
Method, according to claim 11, characterised in that the step (102) of fabricating said upper portion (222, 232) comprises the following further step:
XIII) fabricating one or more fifth rows (R5), overlapped with said fourth row (R4) in the distal direction (SI) from said lower portion, said fifth rows having width corresponding to the width of said fourth row, after the completion of said steps I)-XII).
PCT/EP2012/066828 2011-09-02 2012-08-30 Knitwear item, or a portion thereof, and related fabrication method WO2013030257A2 (en)

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EP12761714.0A EP2748360B1 (en) 2011-09-02 2012-08-30 Knitwear item, or a portion thereof, and related fabrication method
ES12761714.0T ES2645201T3 (en) 2011-09-02 2012-08-30 Knitted item, or a portion thereof, and related manufacturing method

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IT000120A ITTV20110120A1 (en) 2011-09-02 2011-09-02 KNITTING ARTICLE, OR PART OF IT, AND METHOD OF RELATIVE REALIZATION
ITTV2011A000120 2011-09-02

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2019179750A1 (en) * 2018-03-20 2019-09-26 Anna Obrezkina Knitted garment

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DE112018008083B4 (en) 2018-10-17 2023-05-11 Dmitry Valeryevich Marchenkov VOLUME JERSEY DAYS

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GB1106145A (en) * 1964-04-18 1968-03-13 Cotton Ltd W Production of knitted articles having pouches on straight bar knitting machines
DE2410368A1 (en) * 1974-03-05 1975-09-11 Dieter Graether Ladies jumper - with shaped bust provided for by pattern
US5692399A (en) * 1991-07-05 1997-12-02 Shima Seiki Mfg., Ltd. Method of knitting fabric having three-dimensional silhouette shape

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WO2019179750A1 (en) * 2018-03-20 2019-09-26 Anna Obrezkina Knitted garment

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EP2748360A2 (en) 2014-07-02
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ITTV20110120A1 (en) 2013-03-03
ES2645201T3 (en) 2017-12-04

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