WO2019179750A1

WO2019179750A1 - Knitted garment

Info

Publication number: WO2019179750A1
Application number: PCT/EP2019/055162
Authority: WO
Inventors: Anna Obrezkina
Original assignee: Anna Obrezkina
Priority date: 2018-03-20
Filing date: 2019-03-01
Publication date: 2019-09-26
Also published as: CA3094000A1; AU2019238834A1; US20210010174A1; EP3768885A1; EP3768885B1; DK3768885T3; DE102018106524B3

Abstract

The invention relates to a knitted garment (1) with three-dimensional textile shaping for body curves (2, 2', 2''). The aim with this type of knitted garment (1) is to achieve an optimal three-dimensional textile shaping with a large volume, where the knitted fabric neatly fits around even large volumes and visual breaks of the fit of the knitted fabric to the body are avoided. To this end, the three-dimensional textile shaping of the knitted part (5, 6) fitting around the body curve (2, 2', 2'') or body curves (2, 2', 2'') is achieved by: increasing, in the region of a body curve (2, 2', 2''), in the knitted part (5, 6) covering said body curve, the number of stitches on the outer side of the knitted-fabric central piece predetermined on the basis of the body measurements, said increase extending for a plurality of rows of knitting, depending on the curve; then maintaining the number of stitches; and then decreasing the number of stitches, again on the outer side of the predetermined knitted-fabric central piece, wherein the knitting process is continuous without being temporarily interrupted for individual rows of stitches, as is the case when using a gusset technique or wedge-shaping technique.

Description

knitwear

description

The invention relates to a knitwear with three-dimensional textile molding for

Body bulges.

Knitted garments are sewn together in the usual production of front part, back and sleeve parts, which are each knitted separately in the appropriate size and shape. For jackets, the front part is replaced by two front pieces. However, it is also possible to produce a round knitted part instead of front and back, to which then, if desired, the sleeve parts can be attached. Irrespective of these design options, the ability to adapt the knit to bodily bulges is only possible to a limited extent. For pronounced body bulges, such as large breasts, especially silicone breasts, bellies, especially during pregnancy, or pronounced buttocks, the z. B. covered in knit dresses, this adjustment of the knitted fabric is no longer possible. Especially when a knitwear should fit snugly, then it comes to a tensioning and warping of the knit fabric, so that, for example, no longer sit properly on a top of the neckline and the sleeve neck and form wrinkles or the garment warps. The knit then tightens over the chest area and can become transparent. On the other hand, it is no longer under the breast, but hangs loose in the abdominal and hip area. In particular, women with silicone breasts, which are disproportionate in relation to the slender body, but do not want to wear clothes that they need to buy because of the breast 1 to 2 sizes too big, but close-fitting knitwear without the above-mentioned undesirable effects to come to full advantage ,

From the knitting instructions for hand knitting machines "PASSAP abc" from the company Passap, it is known from the first chapter - Foreword to the front - to solve this problem in large breasts by the fact that in sweaters the front longer knitted and on

Breast height to the outside is provided with two darts. For thin fabrics then the fabric is on the inside three times. For thick fabrics V-shaped recesses are knitted in this area. The two sides of the V-shaped recess are then through Darts joined together so that a sweater or other knitwear has a three-dimensional textile forming.

The disadvantage of this measure is that the knit does not completely conform because the area of the dart is thicker, stiffer and inflexible. In addition, the seams are relatively clearly visible, their production requires an additional step and usually the texture of the seam is clearly interrupted.

Furthermore, from the sock knitting or from DE 39 37 406 A1 and DE 10 2015 1 15 228 B3, the gusset or Spickeitechnik known in which take place for knitting a gusset or Spickeis Maschenzu- or decreases. In this case, however, the stitches are temporarily stopped after completion of the gusset or Spickeis on needles, then an inter-knitted knitted part (which may also be a gusset or Spickei) and thereby a spatial offset of the knitted parts, such as in the heel of a sock, too achieve.

The disadvantage of the gusset or Spickeitechnik is that no larger volume can be umknicken, but this is needed, for example, for breasts, a stomach, especially abdomen, or butt. In the gusset or Spickeitechnik it comes during the painting to clear traces and at the end of the joining can form sharp knurls in the fabric.

The invention is therefore based on the object with a knitwear of the type mentioned to achieve optimal three-dimensional textile forming with large volume, in which the fabric adapts to large volume clean and optical interruptions of nestling of the knitted fabric are avoided to the body.

The object is achieved in that the three-dimensional textile forming on the knitted part with the body curvature or body curvatures is achieved in that in the region of a body curvature within the knitted part that covers this, according to the curvature over several rows of knitting a stitch gain on the outside of the previously held due to the body dimensions specific center piece of the knitted fabric, then a retention of the mesh size and then a

Mesh decrease here on the outside of the previously determined center piece of the knitted fabric, without a temporary interruption of the knitting process for individual Courses, as in the gusset or Spickeitechnik, the knitting process is continued continuously

The advantage of such a knitting method is that an optimal adaptation to the body shape is possible. In contrast to the prior art, the fabric in the knitting method according to the invention is the same everywhere thick, equally flexible and hugs the body optimally. The stitch additions and decreases always take place on the outside, from the previously determined (calculated or determined by trial and error) center piece of the knitted fabric and always at the same point (on the same needle or stitch). Depending on the particular body shape, it can be adapted exactly to the exact shape of the body, even in the case of large volumes such as breasts, buttocks or abdomen, and without interruption of nestling to the body shape. In contrast to the gusset or Spickeitechnik it does not come to clear traces of paint marks, punch marks or pointed bulges. The knitting technique according to the invention is suitable for all sizes of garments - as well as adapted to different breast sizes - realized and may possibly even be performed individually. The stitch additions and removals are not visually or slightly noticeable and the disturbance of the texture course is low. Since this knitting a knitting machine can be programmed, also eliminates the

Working step of making darts. Compared to the gusset or Spickeitechnik no temporary interruption of the knitting process must be done so that the production is simplified.

Below expedient refinements and developments of the invention will be explained.

Conveniently, it is provided that the stitch additions and decreases take place in superimposed positions (each on the same needle) of the rows of knitting so that they extend along two or four lines corresponding to the body curvature (s) distributed over the knitted portion. By such line formations, the impairment of the texture is much lower than if the stitch increases and decreases would be offset. If these lines are visible - depending on the yarn texture, the mesh size and the yarn thickness - these are integrated into the image of the garment and can even give it a special touch. In order to achieve an optimal adaptation to the body shape, it should be provided that the two or four lines run in the direction of the highest point or highest area of the body curvature.

Preferably, it is provided that the stitch additions and removals are not made in immediately successive rows of knitting. In this way, the forming lines are less noticeable and there are fewer holes between the stitches. In addition, the tensile force on the threads is thereby reduced, so that the risk of a thread breakage at high load is lower. In how many rows of knitting the

Mesh sizes and decreases are dependent on how big the

Bulge of the substance for the corresponding body shape must fail. For a large bulge, which is probably most demanded, a stitch gain and decrease in every other row of knitting is sufficient. As a result, the stitch increase and decrease in the fabric is visually less noticeable and the risk of a thread break less.

For example, the front piece is first knit like a normal pullover, but below the chest, laterally from the edge of the center piece of the fabric, stitches in a straight line up in every other row increase, thereby optically creating an oblique line in the finished pullover, even if the lines are actually vertical. When the desired length has been reached, all stitches in each row continue to be knitted normally, ie without any increase or decrease, over the entire width of the front piece. When the desired height is reached, starting from the edge of the center piece of the knitted fabric, starting in a straight line upwards in desired length stitches, also in every other row, and then stop above the chest, side of Armlochnaht - so arises the second in the finished sweater optically inclined line. The latter point is crucial for the fit, so how the sweater or dress sits on armhole and chest and adapts to the body. For the "knit" construction, the combination of positioning the start and end points of the lines is crucial. For this purpose, dimensional ranges are proposed below.

The same principle can be applied to dresses, skirts and pants when you knit in the back of a three-dimensional volume for the butt or - for example, in pregnancy clothing - for the stomach. The main field of application of the invention is to be a knitwear for women with three-dimensional textile shaping of the front part (for sweaters or knit dresses) or the front parts (for jackets) for the breasts. Especially with silicone breasts is the tight

Cuddly and a perfect optical image of the garment particularly desired. Even with dresses, skirts and pants (in the back for the butt), this textile shaping can be applied.

In the case of a three-dimensional textile shaping for the breasts, the course of the line is

Mesh increase and decrease preferably such that in each case two lines for the

Body curvature of each breast from below or from above in the direction of the highest points of the breasts. The lines in the finished sweater look like they are skewed, in fact, the lines are vertically one above the other. The optically oblique line course results from the mesh increase and decrease described above.

The above-mentioned useful measure ranges for the chest area are given in the dependent claim 8 and in the drawing description. In these areas, all common sizes move.

In three-dimensional designs for butt or stomach is provided that extend on both sides of the body curvature two lines for the body curvature optically obliquely downward from the outside up and visually obliquely upward from the outside down in the direction of the highest portion of the body curvature. In fact, the lines lie vertically one above the other.

The invention will be described below with reference to the drawing

Embodiments explained. Show it

1 seen a sweater obliquely from the front,

2 shows a detail of FIG. 1,

3 a knit dress in side view,

Fig. 4, the knit dress in front view and

Fig. 5, the knit dress in rear view. Fig. 1 shows a knitwear 1 a sweater in a three-quarter view, that is obliquely from the front. Through this view, the breast 2 'can be seen on the right side as body curvature 2, whereby it is drawn as it corresponds to the shape when wearing the pullover. The stitch increase and decrease lines 3 always run on the outside of a previously determined (calculated or determined by trial and error) center piece of the knitted fabric. This center piece is located in FIG. 4 between the lines 3 ', 3 "of the right and the lines 3', 3" of the left side, corresponding to in Fig. 5 between the lines 3. The stitch gain and decrease is always on same place (on the same needle or stitch) instead. The lines of the right side are hidden in FIG. 1. On the left side, the breast 2 'is indicated only by its highest point 4, on which the lines 3 of the stitch increase and decrease are aligned. It is an upper line 3 ', which stops at or - as shown - near the seam 10 of the sleeve 7, preferably about 1 cm away, and until just before the highest point 4 of the breast 2' runs. The lower line 3 'also points to the highest point 4 of the breast 2' and extends optically when looking at the pullover obliquely outwards and downwards in the direction of the seam 9 between front part 5 and rear part 6 of the pullover. The course of these lines 3 comes about through the stitch increase and decrease of the knit construction according to the invention. One can imagine this knit construction in such a way that in an im

Substantially straight portion of the front part of the pullover trapezoidal side panels are knitted, which provide the three-dimensional design. It will be a 3-D

Trapezoidal shape / trapezium prism knitted. The sweater, of course, does not have a trapezoidal shape in the chest area when worn, but due to the flexibility and conformability of the knit on the chest, it fits snugly against the skin and adapts to it. Signed is still the highest shoulder point 8, which is decisive for the placement of the design. Dimensions for the design are given on the basis of the description of FIG. 2.

Fig. 2 shows a detail of Fig. 1 in order to show the appropriate dimensions in the chest area of the front part 5 - or the front parts in jackets. The measurements refer to the finished knitwear, because the dimensions of a knit change when it is taken from the knitting machine, sewn together and usually also washed. Of course, when the knitwear is put on, an adaptation to the body will change it again.

The dimensions are preferably within the following ranges: The measure 1 1 from the highest shoulder point 8 to the contour line on which the upper line chest 3 'stops, which begins approximately 1 cm from the seam 10 for the sleeves 7 begins, between 14 and 18 cm,

Measure 12 the length of the upper line chest 3 'between 5 and 20 cm,

Measure 13 the length of the lower line breast 3 "between 5 and 20 cm,

Measure 14 of the distance between the ends of the upper 3 'and the lower line breast 3 "in the region near the highest point 4 of the breast 2' between 1 and 10 cm,

Dimension 15 of the distance between the lines 3 'and 3 "at their ends remote from the breast 2' between 10 and 30 cm and

Measure 16 of the lower end of the lower line breast 3 "to the seam 9 between front 5 and rear 6 between 2 and 8 cm.

The following table gives an example of measurements for different clothing sizes of sweaters and bra sizes, assuming tolerance deviations of ± 1 cm. The fact that smaller clothing sizes are given as examples here results from the fact that wearers of silicone breasts tend to have smaller clothing sizes:

Fig. 3 shows a knitwear 1, which is designed as a knit dress. In this case, the upper region corresponds to the previously described sweater, the dress having no sleeves for the sake of simplicity. The knitted parts 5 and 6 of the front part 5 and the rear part 6 are longer than the pullover according to the length of the dress. But it is in

appropriate design as the sweater, the three-dimensional shape for the chest 2 'equal and the shape of the butt 2 "is made in a similar manner. However, there are four lines 3 of the mesh increase and decrease, of which only two are visible in the figure because of the side view.

Fig. 4 shows the knit dress in front view, whereby also up to the length of the

Knitted gown everything the same, as it was already described to the sweater.

Fig. 5 shows the knit dress in rear view, in which case the course of the lines 3 of

Mesh increase and decrease is apparent, which are visually directed in each case at the finished dress from the outside to the area of the highest point. This area has according to the body shape one of these corresponding width.

The embodiments are of course only exemplary, in a similar manner, a knit clothing can also be adapted to a stomach area, such as a pregnancy abdomen.

Naturally, the textile shaping according to the invention for body curvatures could also be used for other areas, for example in the case of a dress which is produced in the circular knitting process for the waist and hip area. In this regard, therefore, various variations of the invention are conceivable, the key feature is that within a specific knitted part, the third dimension 3-D trapezoidal shape / trapezoidal prism can be incorporated.

knitwear

LIST OF REFERENCE NUMBERS

knitwear

body bulges

chest

butt

Lines of mesh increase and decrease

'Upper line chest

"Bottom line chest

highest point or highest area of body curvature

Knitted part: front part

Knitted part: rump

sleeve

highest shoulder point

Seam front and rear

0 seam sleeves

1 measure from the highest shoulder point to the gutter on which the upper one

Line chest begins

2 measure of length of 3 '

3 measure of length of 3 "

4 measure 3 'and 3 "dimension on the body buckle 2

5 Dimension of 3 'and 3 "distance from the body buckle

6 Dimension of bottom end from 3 "to seam 9

Claims

Knitted clothing claims

1. knitwear (1) with three-dimensional textile shaping for body buckling

(2, 2 ', 2 "),

characterized,

in that the three-dimensional textile forming on the knitted part (5, 6) with the body arch (2, 2 ', 2 ") or the body curvatures (2, 2', 2") is achieved in that in the region of a body curvature (2 , 2 ', 2 ") within the knitted part (5, 6) covering them, according to the curvature over several rows of knitting, an increase in stitching takes place on the outside of the knitted fabric center previously determined by the body dimensions, then the number of stitches and then a stitch decrease, also here on the outside of the previously determined center piece of the knitted fabric, without a temporary

Interruption of the knitting process for individual courses, as in the gusset or Spickeitechnik, the knitting process is continued continuously.

2. knitwear according to claim 1,

characterized,

that the stitch additions and decreases take place in superimposed positions of the knitting courses so that they extend along two or four lines (3).

3. knitwear according to claim 2,

characterized,

in that the two or four lines (3) run in the direction of the highest point or highest area (4) of the body curvature (2, 2 ', 2 ").

4. knitwear according to one of claims 1, 2 or 3,

characterized,

that the stitch additions and removals are not made in immediately successive rows of knitting.

5. knitwear according to claim 4,

characterized,

that the stitch additions and decreases are made in every other knitting row.

6. Knitted clothing according to one of claims 1 to 5,

characterized,

that it is a knitwear with three-dimensional textile shaping of the front part (5) or the front parts for the breasts (2 ').

7. knitwear according to claim 6,

characterized,

in that in each case two lines (3 ', 3 ") for the body curvature (2) of each breast (2') run from below or from above in the direction of the highest points (4) of the breasts (2 ').

8. knitwear according to claim 7,

characterized,

that in the chest area of the front part (5) or the front parts of the finished

Knitwear The measurements are within the following ranges:

Measure (1 1) from the highest shoulder point (8) to the contour line on which the upper line chest (3 ') begins, which begins about 1 cm away from the seam (10) for the sleeves (7), between 14 and 18 cm,

Measure (12) of the length of the upper line chest (3 ') between 5 and 20 cm,

Measure (13) the length of the lower line chest (3 ") between 5 and 20 cm,

Measure (14) of the distance between the ends of the upper (3 ') and the lower line chest (3 ") in the region near the highest point (4) of the breast (2') between 1 and 10 cm,

Measure (15) of the distance between the lines (3 'and 3 ") at their ends remote from the breast (2') between 10 and 30 cm and

Measure (16) of the lower end of the lower line breast (3 ") to the seam (9) between front (5) and rear (6) between 2 and 8 cm.

9. Knitted clothing according to one of claims 1 to 7,

characterized,

on both sides of the body curvature (2) run in each case two lines (3) for the body bulges (2) such as butt (2 ") or belly downwards and upwards in the direction of the highest portion (4) of the body curvature (2, 2").