DE1273112B - Flat knitted front part for a piece of women's clothing and flat weft knitting machine for its production - Google Patents

Description

FEDERAL REPUBLIC OF GERMANY

GERMAN

PATENT OFFICE

EDITORIAL

Int. Cl .:

D04b

German KL: 25 a -18/05

Number: 1273 112

File number: P 12 73 112.3-26 (G 28614)

Filing date: December 17, 1959

Opening day: July 18, 1968

The invention relates to a flat-knit, made of two halves connected by a vertical sewing seam Existing front part for an item of women's clothing, in particular for a bathing suit, in which the Curvature of each cup-shaped breast pocket is formed by increasing and decreasing, as well as a flat one Weft knitting machine System Cotton for its production.

There are knitting processes for flat weft knitting machines or manufactured according to these processes Articles of clothing such as a bathing suit according to British patent 9320 from 1887, known in which extensions or bulges by changing the mesh width or Mesh type or both at the same time, by wedge work, increasing or decreasing at the edge of the fabric or can be created by widened courses of stitches.

As a result, however, either no bulges adapted to the natural shape of the breasts can be obtained that retain their three-dimensional shape even in the de-energized state, or it trimming or sewing processes must be carried out afterwards, which on the one hand is the good Appearance is reduced and, on the other hand, the production of the item of clothing is made more expensive. aside from that must be carried out on various of the machines used for the known processes during the Acting some needles are temporarily put out of operation, thereby controlling the machine becomes more cumbersome and difficult.

In addition, the German patent specification 895 364 describes a mode of operation with two pairs of deckers has been proposed according to which the swimsuit known from the aforementioned British patent can be produced, each of the two pairs of deckers from a wide outer decker and from consists of a narrow inner deck; the two deckers of each pair can be brought together without a gap. In addition, the outer deckers are each two needle divisions and the inner deckers can be brought to the outside by one needle division at a time.

In contrast, the object of the invention is to provide an item of women's outer clothing of the initially mentioned mentioned type as well as a flat weft knitting machine for its production to control that the seams especially simple, elegant and inexpensive by increasing and decreasing are made so that the Curvatures adapted to the breasts retain their three-dimensional shape in the de-energized state.

Flat knitted front part

for a women's garment as well as flat ones

Weft knitting machine for its production

Applicant:

Barnett David Gordon,

Brookline, Mass. (V. St. A.)

Representative:

Dipl.-Ing. R. Müller-Borner

and Dipl.-Ing. H.-H. Wey, patent attorneys,

8000 Munich 22, Widenmayerstr. 49

Named as inventor:

Barnett David Gordon, Brookline, Mass.

(V. St. A.)

Claimed priority:

V. St. v. America 2 February 1959 (790 669)

According to the invention this object is achieved in that the breast pocket in the lower part on the The outer side of a vertical breast pocket center line has a larger increase seam, while on the inner side it is has a smaller widened seam, which in the upper part has a larger or a smaller minor seam is equivalent to.

A flat weft knitting machine System Cotton with two inner and two outer, independent of each other controllable deckers in each font for the simultaneous production of mirror images Front halves are characterized according to the invention by the control of the decker such that for Then the two inner deckers each move to their starting position after they have been uncovered by one needle division can be brought, whereas the two outer deckers after uncovering by one needle division cannot be brought back into their original position, and that to reduce the control of all Decker is done in reverse.

In the following detailed explanation of the subject matter of the invention, reference is made to FIGS. 1 to 7 Reference is made to the drawings relating to embodiments of the subject invention. It shows

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of an embodiment of a bathing suit according to the invention,

809 570/104

Fig. 2 is a perspective view of an inventive Bra,

Fig. 3 is a schematic representation of the course of the wales when knitting the shell-shaped breast pocket on the front of a swimsuit,

Fig. 4 is a partial view showing the interaction between the narrow decks and some Knitting needles explained

Fig. 5 is a perspective view of one of the narrow deckers for making the cup-shaped Larger-scale breast pockets,

F i g. 6 a schematic representation of a pattern chain, the buttons of which the actuation of the narrow Control decker, and

Fig. 7 is a plan view of a gauge for setting the buttons of the pattern chain.

The one shown in FIG. 1 shown swimsuit consists of a front part 10 and a back part 12, which are sewn together on the sides and in the crotch and provided with suitable shoulder straps 13 are. The front part 10 can be produced on a normal flat weft knitting machine. The machine used is an outerwear knitting machine; H. around a Machine whose needles are sized so that they can be used with women's sweaters, swimsuits or the like Garments can be knitted. These machines have a number of fountains that run simultaneously operated and controlled in order to produce an equal number of similar active parts. Each font is provided with a sufficient number of needles to either make the front part 10 or the back part 12 of the item of clothing to be produced, for example that shown in FIG. 1 Swimsuit to be able to produce even in the largest dimensions. By having two thread guides used simultaneously, each of which on the thread supply of one half of the needles of the fontur is limited, the front part can be made in two separate, mirror-image halves. These halves 10 and 12 are later sewn together, as shown at 14, to form the front part of the swimsuit. In any case, the production of the breast parts in the knitting process is essentially the same same.

In the case of the item of goods shown in FIG. 1, the knitting begins at the bottom, the item of goods is shaped in a suitable manner by moving from the lower edge to during the knitting process Waist the decker actuated accordingly.

In Fig. 1, the distant lines indicate approximately the course of the individual wales in this part of the garment. To make the chest in this part of the garment, the stitches in the rows of stitches extending from 14 to E are uncovered to the left after each knitted row, so that the wales divide along the line E to F and "every time a new wale is formed. At the same time, the stitches in the rows between JB ₁ and the edge 15 of the knitted part are covered to the right after each knitted row. By covering the stitches to the right, the wales split along the line E ₁ to F ₁ No stitches covered between F and G or F ₁ and G _1. In the courses from 14 to G the stitches are covered to the right after each knitted course, while the stitches in the courses from G ₁ to edge 15 are covered to the left As a result of this covering, the wales run along the line G to H and along the line G ₁ to H ₁ together. By splitting and converging the wales, as shown in FIG. 1 is described and shown, a shell-shaped breast pocket is created. By covering the other half of the piece 10, a shell-shaped breast pocket is created, which is exactly symmetrical to the one described above.

In the flat weft knitting machine of the present invention, deckers are sufficient Length provided to accommodate the number of needles necessary by about half to capture the needles that are used to knit a half-part of the greatest width. To work the two halves of a front part with shell-shaped breast pockets are preferably four deckers same size used. Such a decker is shown in FIG. 4 shown. In any case, depends the actual length of the decker and the number of decking needles carried by them from the Size of the garment to which the fabric belongs, and also on the type and thickness of the garment tangling thread. For example, a fontur of the weeding machine can be on its needle bar, for example Have 500 needles. Of these, two spaced groups of 188 needles each can be used to act simultaneously on the two halves of a front part of a bathing suit. For the covering to be described below should each of the deckers be 125 mm long and 80 decker needles wear. These numbers are for explanatory purposes only and will vary from case to case different sizes of swimsuits.

The interaction of the decker of a fontur with some needles is shown schematically in FIG. Four deckers 30, 32, 34 and 36 are mounted on the deck rods 40, 42, 44 and 46. The deckers wear decker needles 48 located immediately above some of the needles 50 on the needle bar 52. The deck rods are slidably mounted in brackets, not shown, which move up and down are so that the cover needles 48 pick up the stitches from the needles below them or you can drop them off there. When the machine is in operation and halves 10, 12 of the front part of a bathing suit, the outer deckers 30, 36 are simultaneously in opposite directions shifted so that they are either "inward", i.e. H. towards each other, or "outwards," d. H. from each other be moved away. The sliding movements of the inner decks 32 take place in the same way, 34 always simultaneously and are either inward, i.e. H. towards each other or outwards, d. H. away from each other directed, but the inner cover 32, 34 never more than a needle from their original position remove. By using two thread guides that point to the Half of the needles of the needle bar 52 are constrained and symmetrical about the center of the needle bar move towards each other, the two halves 20, 22 of the front part of a swimsuit are simultaneously worked in mirror image to each other. A description of the movements of deckers 34 and 36

During the production of a half-part 22, the decker 30 is therefore also used to explain the movements and 32 for producing the other half 10 of the part of the goods.

After one half of the front part has been worked, the outer cover 30 and 36 are first moved outwards so that they can shape the outer edges of the article. The machine then works smoothly up to point E (Fig. 3), the half-parts being drawn in at the edges in the area between the lower edge and the waist. At this point the decker 34 begins to expand the stitches one needle width inward, ie to the left, each time. The decker immediately returns to its original position after each shift. After each shift, a row of stitches is knitted, thereby starting a new wale, which branches off to the left from the continuous wale 60. The wale 60 is knitted with the needle which is adjacent to the outermost needle from which the decker 34 has removed a stitch. This process with the continuous formation of new wales, which branch off to the left from the wale 60 passing through, is continued until point F is reached. After a number of such new wales, e.g. B. 11, has been started, the machine stops and the outer deckers 30, 36 are moved inward by hand until the innermost decker needle of the decker 36 is above the needle that is at point E ₁ (F i g. 3) is located. When the knitting process is then resumed, the outer cover 36 covers the stitches each time by one needle to the outside or to the right. However, the decker does not return to its original position after each shift, but keeps moving to the right when a row of stitches is knitted again after the individual shifts. It follows from this that the new wales branch off from the wale 62 passing through to the left. The wale 62 is formed by the successive needles on which the innermost cover needle of the cover 36 covers the stitches. The simultaneous actuation of deckers 34, 36 continues until points F and F _{1 are} reached. At this point the machine stops. The operator of the machine then temporarily puts the device for changing the working path of the thread guides out of operation, whereupon smooth working is resumed until points G and G _{1 are} reached. Then the deckers 34,36 begin to move in opposite directions. The inner cover 34 covers the stitches each time by one needle to the outside, ie to the right, and returns to its starting position after each shift. The outer cover 36 covers the stitches each time by one needle inwards, ie to the left, but always maintains its direction of movement. Just like before, a row of stitches is worked after each shift. These simultaneous movements of the decks 34, 36 are continued until point H _{1 is} reached and the outer deck 36 is again in the position in which it was at the beginning of the shifting movements at point E ₁ . These opposite displacement movements of the decker 34, 36 lead to the wales, as shown in FIG. 3, come together again. After the backward displacement movements of the deck 36 have ended at point H ₁ , the displacement movements of the deck 34 are preferably continued until point H or the upper edge of the half-piece is reached.

As the F i g. 3 shows, the breast part of a half-piece consists of a narrow central strip of continuously running wales, of which the inner wale is provided with the reference number 60 and the outer wale with the reference number 61. The inner group of continuous wales to the left of this strip branches off at E and joins in again at H , the space in between being filled with a number of new wales that branch off one after the other from the continuous wale 60 between points E and F to the left and later merge again between points G and H in reverse order.

The outer group of continuous wales to the right of the middle strip branches off at E ₁ and later joins again at H ₁ , the space in between being filled with a second group of new wales that run between points E ₁ and H ₁ and to the left branch off one after the other from the continuous wales 62 and later merge there again in the reverse order.

When either or both deckers 34 and 36 are moved to cover stitches, are also the decker 32 and 30 moved in a similar manner, but in the opposite direction to the other half of the part of the goods as a counterpart to the arrangement of the in F i g. 3 wales shown to build. The chest areas in the brassiere of FIG. 2 can be cast in a similar way. The parts 30 'and 32' of the front part can be knitted separately from one another or together. The chest strap 34 'is preferably sewn to the front part at 36', while the shoulder straps can be manufactured and attached as desired.

F i g. Fig. 6 shows the arrangement of buttons on a normal pattern warp 70 such as is commonly used on a flat weft knitting machine. In the drawing it is assumed that the pattern chain moves downwards so that the lowest buttons reach the levers first, which they pivot to control the deckers. The buttons are with the help of a gauge 72, as shown in FIG. 7 shows, carefully distributed across the width of the pattern chain. The length of this gauge is equal to the width of the pattern chain 70, so that the correct position of a button can be found when the gauge is placed across the pattern chain. The buttons a, b, c, d, e, f, g and h correspond to the distances a ', b', c ', d', e, f, g ' and h' of the gauge 72.

The button α ensures that the deckers move downwards so that stitches are removed from the needles located under the decker needles. A button α ensures, provided its effect is not impaired by the presence of buttons c and /, for a shift of the decker in a decreasing sense. The buttons c and / ensure, however, that certain cams are adjusted, which the outer decker 30 and 36 to the outside

move. The button e , in conjunction with the button α, ensures an inward movement of the inner cover 32 and 34. These movements are widening movements with respect to the goods halves 10 and 12 to be operated. The button b changes the path of the thread guides around a needle when it is desired to widen the fabric halves at the edges. The buttons a, b, c, e and / on the link 74 of the pattern chain 70 shift the outer cover 30 and 36 outward, shift the inner cover 32 and 34 inward and increase the path of the thread guides to widen the work piece. The button d ensures that the inner decks 32 and 34 are returned to their original positions after each inward displacement. The work of these buttons begins when point E (Fig. 3) is reached in the process. At this point in time, the outer cover 30 and 36 are far apart, so that only a few of the inner cover needles attack the edges in order to widen the goods halves. When the link 75 of the pattern chain reaches the levers, a button g stops the machine to allow the operator to slide the outer deckers inward so that the innermost decker needle of decker 36 overlaps at point E ₁ (Fig. 3) the needle is located. The machine is then switched on again in order to be stopped again by a button g on the link 76 after a predetermined number of additional, alternating shifting and knitting movements, so that the operator briefly takes the device, which changes the path of the thread guides, out of operation can be set so that no changes are made for the remaining part of the knitting process. This smooth knitting is resumed for a predetermined number of rows until the pattern chain link 78 reaches the levers. The buttons a, d and e ensure that the outer deckers are moved inwards and the inner deckers outwards, the last-mentioned deckers being returned to their original position after each movement with the aid of a button e.

After a predetermined number of such shifts, which alternate with the knitting of individual rows of stitches, the buttons a, d, e, f of the pattern chain link 80 again ensure that the inner coverings are shifted outwards and return to the starting position after each shift, while the outer deckers remain inactive. After this operation has been carried out a predetermined number of times, the button h actuates a counter, which then increases its display by one unit. The machine is then switched off with a button g. The goods halves are then removed from the needles, and new goods parts are started after the outer deckers have been moved into their starting positions and the device for changing the path of the thread guides has been put back into operation.

Claims (2)

Patent claims: 1. Flat-knitted, consisting of two halves connected by a vertical seam, front part for a women's garment, in particular for a swimsuit, in which the curvature of each cup-shaped breast pocket is formed by increasing and decreasing, characterized in that the breast pocket in the lower part on the outer side a vertical breast pocket center line has a larger increase seam (EF), on the other hand a smaller increase seam (E ₁ , F ₁ ) on the inside, which corresponds to a larger or a smaller minor seam (GH or G ₁ , H ₁ ) in the upper part. 2. Flat weft knitting machine System Cotton with two inner and two outer, independent mutually controllable deckers in each font for the simultaneous production of mirror images Front half halves according to Claim 1, characterized by the control of the decker (32, 34, 30, 36) in such a way that the two inner decks (32, 34) after uncovering can be brought into their starting position by one needle division, whereas the two outer decker (30, 36) not return to their original position after being covered by one needle division can be brought, and that to reduce the control of all deckers (32, 34, 30, 36) is reversed. Considered publications: German Patent Nos. 895 364, 633 208, 620187, 593 457, 574 382, 558 995, 185 326; Swiss Patent No. 133 446; French Patent Nos. 986 562, 748 562; British Patent No. 9320 from 1887. 1 sheet of drawings 809 570/104 7.68 © Bundesdruckerei Berlin