EP2748360B1 - Vêtement tricoté ou partie de celui-ci et procédé de fabrication correspondant - Google Patents

Vêtement tricoté ou partie de celui-ci et procédé de fabrication correspondant Download PDF

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Publication number
EP2748360B1
EP2748360B1 EP12761714.0A EP12761714A EP2748360B1 EP 2748360 B1 EP2748360 B1 EP 2748360B1 EP 12761714 A EP12761714 A EP 12761714A EP 2748360 B1 EP2748360 B1 EP 2748360B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
needle
knitted fabric
stitches
stitch
needle bed
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EP12761714.0A
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German (de)
English (en)
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EP2748360A2 (fr
Inventor
Luciano BENETTON
Giuliana Benetton
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Benetton Group SRL
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Benetton Group SRL
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/246—Upper torso garments, e.g. sweaters, shirts, leotards
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/03—Shape features
    • D10B2403/033—Three dimensional fabric, e.g. forming or comprising cavities in or protrusions from the basic planar configuration, or deviations from the cylindrical shape as generally imposed by the fabric forming process

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a knitwear item, or a portion thereof, and to a method of fabricating it at industrial level.
  • Some garments after being put one, have creases or smears at the breast point and/or underarm region, with considerable reduction of their aesthetic value.
  • the knitted fabric is often subject to undesirable stretching at the breast point, due to the structural tensions to which the knitted fabric is subjected with use. Naturally, these deformations cause aesthetic deterioration of the knitwear garment, often until its replacement becomes necessary.
  • knitwear garments available on the market are shaped in such a manner as to adhere to the user's body but are not very comfortable to wear and somewhat unsuitable for larger physiques, above all as regards the bust and the breasts.
  • Patent documents DE2410368A1 and US3389580 describe known methods for manufacturing knitwear items.
  • DE 2410368 A1 discloses a knitwear item and a method of making same according to the preamble of independent claims 1 and 6.
  • the present invention intends to meet the needs indicated above by providing a knitwear item, or a portion thereof, according to claim 1 and the related dependent claims, set forth below.
  • the knitwear item, or a portion thereof, according to the invention comprises a pectoral region, configured to be worn at the user's chest, in which there are defined a central zone and two side zones that are substantially symmetric with respect to said central zone.
  • Each of the aforesaid side zones comprises a lower portion and an upper portion, having knitted fabric with modified interlacing with respect to the rest of the item, or a portion thereof.
  • the knitted fabric of the lower portion of each of said side zones comprises a plurality of stitches that are doubled and set in adjacent position at a series of rows in the direction toward said upper portion, so as to obtain a widening of the same knitted fabric.
  • the knitted fabric of the upper portion of each of said side zones comprises a plurality of stitches set overlapped at a series of rows, in the distal direction from said lower portion, so as to obtain a narrowing of the same knitted fabric.
  • the present invention relates to a method of fabricating, at industrial level, the aforesaid knitwear item, or a portion thereof, according to claim 6 and the related dependent claims, set forth below.
  • the method provides for the use of a two needle bed knitting apparatus, preferably rectilinear, comprising a first needle bed and a second needle bed for fabricating the knitted fabric.
  • the knitted fabric of the lower portion of each of said side zones comprises a plurality of stitches that are doubled and set in adjacent position at a series of rows in the direction toward said upper portion, so as to obtain a widening of the knitted fabric.
  • the knitted fabric of the upper portion of each of said side zones comprises a plurality of stitches set overlapped at a series of rows, in the distal direction from said lower portion, so as to obtain a narrowing of the knitted fabric.
  • the present invention relates to a knitwear item 1, or a portion thereof.
  • the side zones 21 and 22 of the pectoral region 2 also comprise a mid portion 223, 233, positioned substantially at the user's breast point, represented schematically by the axis 200 of Fig. 2 .
  • each side zone 22, 23 is positioned symmetrically with respect to the mid portions 223, 233, according to the direction S 1.
  • the knitted fabric thereof advantageously comprises a series of rows RC with width corresponding to the width of the last row RL of the knitted fabric of the lower portion 221, 231 ( Fig. 3 ).
  • the number of rows RC, overlapped according to a distal direction from lower portion 221, 231 (coincident with the direction S1), can vary, according to needs.
  • each side zone 22, 23 are characterised by the fact that is has a knitted fabric with modified interlacing with respect to the rest of the knitwear item 1, in particular to the central zone 21 of the pectoral region 2 or other regions of the knitwear item 1 ( Fig. 3 ).
  • the knitted fabric of the lower portion 221, 231 comprises a plurality of stitches A1, Y, X1, Y1 that are doubled and set in adjacent position at a series of rows R1, R2, R1', R2' in the direction of the upper portion 222, 232 (also coincident with the direction S1).
  • interlacing of the knitted fabric of the lower portion 221, 231 is advantageously modified so that new columns of stitches originate from the points in which formation of the doubled stitches occurs to be developed in the subsequent rows, overlapped according to the direction S 1.
  • Insertion of a new column of stitches determines setting (translation) of the columns of subsequent stitches, according to the direction D1.
  • the positioning of points in which to modify the interlacing of the knitted fabric to obtain the doubled stitches can be chosen according to needs.
  • the knitted fabric of the lower portion 221, 231 is fabricated according to predefined sequences of rows, repeated according to the direction S1.
  • the knitted fabric of the lower portion 221, 231 comprises one or more pairs T1, T2 of rows overlapped according to the direction S1 ( Fig.4 ).
  • Each of the pairs of rows T1, T2 also comprises a second row R2, R2' overlapped with row R1, R1' in the direction S1 and comprising a second pair of stitches (X1, Y1 in the row R2) that are doubled and set in adjacent position, according to the direction D1.
  • the knitted fabric of the lower portion 221, 231 comprises a first pair T1 of rows, a second pair T2 of rows and one or more mid rows RI between the first pair T1 and the second pair T2, overlapped according to the direction S1.
  • the mid rows RI have a width corresponding to the second row R2 of the first pair T1 and their number can vary according to needs.
  • one or more third rows can be inserted between the rows R1, R1' and R2, R2'.
  • Each of the aforesaid third rows preferably has a width corresponding to that of the row R1, R1'.
  • the knitted fabric of the upper portion 222, 232 comprises a plurality of stitches A2, B, B1, C set overlapped at a series of rows R4 in the direction S1 ( Fig. 5 ).
  • the overlapping of several stitches in the rows R4 determines a reduction of the extension thereof and therefore a narrowing of the knitted fabric.
  • Interlacing of the knitted fabric of the upper portion 222, 232 is in practice modified so as to eliminate columns of stitches at points in which the stitches are set overlapped. Elimination of a column of stitches determines setting (translation) of the preceding columns of stitches, according to the direction D2.
  • Narrowing of the knitted fabric can thus be obtained at points of the knitted fabric that are distant from the side edges of the upper portion 222, 232.
  • Positioning of the points in which to modify interlacing of the knitted fabric of the upper portion 222, 232 can be chosen according to needs.
  • the knitted fabric of the upper portion 222, 232 is fabricated according to predefined sequences of rows.
  • the knitted fabric of the upper portion 222, 232 comprises at least one sequence of rows constituted by a fourth row R4, comprising two third pairs A2, B and B1, C of stitches set overlapped, and one or more fifth rows R5 in the direction S1, with width corresponding to the width of the fourth row R4.
  • the present invention relates to a method of fabricating, at industrial level, the knitwear item, or a part thereof.
  • the method provides for the use of a two needle bed knitting apparatus, preferably of rectilinear type.
  • the aforesaid knitting apparatus comprises a first needle bed F1 and a second needle bed F2.
  • the knitted fabric could also be knitted with a purl knitting process.
  • the first needle bed F1 and the second needle bed F2 correspond respectively to the rear and front needle bed of the knitting apparatus.
  • the needles of the needle beds F1 and F2 are needles of the latch or compound type and are operatively positioned so as to form pairs of opposite needles capable of cooperating with each other to braid the yarn and manipulate the stitches of the knitted fabric.
  • the method comprises the steps 101 and 102 of fabricating, for each of said side zones 22, 23, the lower portion 221, 231 and the upper portion 222, 232, which are realized as described above.
  • the method also comprises a step (not illustrated) of fabricating, for each of the side zones 22, 23, the mid portion 223, 233.
  • the knitted fabric of the mid portion 223, 233 advantageously comprises a series of consecutive rows RC, overlapped in the direction S1, with width corresponding to the width of the last row (RL in Fig. 3 ) of the knitted fabric of the lower portion 221, 231.
  • the portions 221, 231 and 222, 232 are advantageously fabricated simultaneously by the knitting apparatus, according to the method that will be described, during fabrication of the knitwear item 1.
  • the step 101 of fabricating the lower portion 221, 231 comprises the step i) of fabricating a first row R1 having a plurality of N stitches that occupy respective needle positions at the first needle bed F1.
  • the needles of the needle bed F1 are occupied by the stitches of the row R1 while the needles of the needle bed F2 are free.
  • the row R1, just as the first stitch A, and the related needle position P1 of this latter, can be selected according to the fabrication needs of the knitwear item 1.
  • the step 101 then provides for the step iv) of performing the doubling of the stitch A in a first doubled stitch A1 and in a second doubled stitch Y.
  • the step 101 provides for the step v) of moving the second stitches Z in the needle bed F2.
  • the stitches Z are positioned so as to occupy, at the needle bed F2, the adjacent positions P Z that follow the needle position P1, according to the direction D1.
  • the stitches Z are moved so as to occupy, in the needle bed F2, the same needle positions that they occupied at the needle bed F1.
  • the step 101 provides for the step vi) of moving in the needle bed F1 the doubled stitch Y and the subsequent stitches Z, by performing a first translation K1 of one needle position, according to the direction D1 (to the right).
  • the stitches Y and Z, thus moved, are positioned in the needle bed F1 so as to occupy the adjacent needle positions P Z that follow the needle position P1, in the direction D1.
  • the row R1 comprises N+1 stitches given that, at the needle position P Z immediately following the needle position P1, according to the direction D1, the doubled stitch Y has been inserted.
  • the knitted fabric of the lower portion 231 preferably comprises pairs T1, T2 of rows, at of each of which consecutive rows R1 and R2 comprise pairs of stitches that are doubled and set in adjacent positions.
  • the step 101 comprises the step vii) of fabricating, according to the direction S1, a second row R2 which has the same width as the row R1, after the completion of the steps i)-vi) of the step 101.
  • the row R2 initially comprises a plurality of N+1 stitches that occupy respective needle positions at the needle bed F1.
  • the needles of the needle bed F1 are therefore occupied by the stitches of the row R2 while the needles of the needle bed F2 are free.
  • the step 101 provides for the step viii) of selecting a third stitch X in the row R2, which occupies, at the needle bed F1, a second reference needle position P2.
  • the needle position P2 can also be selected according to the fabrication needs of the knitwear item 1.
  • the step 101 provides for the step ix) of selecting fourth stitches Z1 in the row R2.
  • the step 101 provides for the step x) of performing the doubling of the stitch X in a third doubled stitch X1 and in a fourth doubled stitch Y1.
  • the doubled stitch X1 is positioned so as to occupy the needle position P2, at the needle bed F1 while the doubled stitch Y1 is moved in the needle bed F2 so as to occupy the same needle position P2.
  • the step 101 then comprises the step xii) of moving, in the needle bed F1, the fourth doubled stitch Y1 and the fourth stitches Z1, by performing a second translation K2 of one needle position in direction D1 (to the right).
  • the stitches Y1 and Z1 are thus positioned so as to occupy, at the needle bed F1, the adjacent needle positions P Z1 that follow the needle position P2, according to the direction D1.
  • the stitch Y1 will occupy the needle position immediately to the right of the needle position P2 while the stitches Z1 will be decreased to the right of a needle position, with respect to the start of the sequence of steps vii)-xii).
  • the row R2 comprises N+2 stitches, as the doubled stitch Y1 has been inserted, at the needle position P Z1 immediately following the needle position P2, according to the direction D1.
  • each sequence of steps i)-xii) enables the fabrication of a pair T1, T2 of rows comprising stitches that are doubled and set in adjacent positions.
  • the step 101 preferably provides for the step xiii) (not illustrated) of fabricating one or more mid rows RI, according to the direction S1 ( figure 4 ).
  • the mid rows RI has a width corresponding to the width (N+2 stitches) of the row R2, after the completion of the preceding steps vii)-xii).
  • steps i)-xiii) of the step 101 can advantageously be repeated one or more times, until the completion of the lower portion 231.
  • new reference positions P1 and P2 can be made, for example, as a function of the type of decorative pattern to be fabricated in the lower portion 231.
  • the translations K1 and K2, sustained by the stitches of the knitted fabric are preferably of one needle position, according to the direction D1 (to the right).
  • steps i)-xiii), illustrated above, can be performed in a different order to that indicated. Some steps can also be performed simultaneously, i.e. with a same operation of the needles of the knitting apparatus, according to needs.
  • the step 102 of fabricating the upper portion 232 comprises the step i) of fabricating a fourth row R4 having a plurality of M stitches that occupy corresponding needle positions at the needle bed F1.
  • the needles of the needle bed F1 are occupied by the stitches of the row R4 while the needles of the needle bed F2 are free.
  • step 102 then provides for the following steps II)-V), respectively of:
  • the reference positions P3 and P4 can be selected according to the fabrication needs of the knitwear item 1.
  • the step 102 comprises the step VI) of moving in the needle bed F2 the stitches A2, B1 and B. These stitches are positioned so as to occupy, at the needle bed F2, respectively the needle position P3, the needle position P4 and the adjacent needle positions P B comprised between the needle positions P3 and P4.
  • the step 102 comprises the step VII) of moving in the needle bed F1 the stitches B and B1, performing a third translation K3 of one needle position in the direction D2 (to the left).
  • a stitch B will occupy the needle position P3 while the stitch B1, which previously occupied the needle position P4, occupies, following the aforesaid translation K3, a fifth reference needle position P5, at the needle bed F1.
  • the needle positions of the needle bed F1 are not all occupied.
  • the needle position P4 remains free due to the translation K3 of the stitches B and B1, according to the direction D2.
  • the step 102 comprises the step VIII) of once again moving the stitch B1 so that it occupies the needle position P5, at the needle bed F2.
  • the step 102 comprises the step IX) of moving the stitches C in the needle bed F2.
  • the stitches C are positioned so as to occupy, in the needle bed F2, the same adjacent needle positions P C that precede the needle position P4, according to the direction D2.
  • the step 102 comprises the step X) of moving the stitches C in the needle bed F1, performing a fourth translation K4 of two needle positions, in the direction D2.
  • the stitches C are thus positioned so as to occupy, at the needle bed F1, the needle position P5 and the adjacent needle positions that precede it, according to the direction D2, including the needle position P4.
  • the step 102 also provides for the step XII) of moving in the needle bed F1 the stitch B1, so that this latter is positioned overlapped with the stitch C that occupies the reference needle position P5, at the needle bed F1.
  • steps I)-XII enable narrowing of the knitted fabric of the upper portion 222, 232, at the points P3 and P5 of the row R4.
  • the row R4 comprises M-2 stitches, positioned at the needle bed F1.
  • the step 101 preferably provides for the step XIII), not illustrated, of fabricating one or more fifth rows R5, according to the direction S1 ( figure 5 ).
  • the rows R5 have a width corresponding to the width (M-2 stitches) of the row R4, after the completion of the previous steps I)-XII), and their number can vary, according to the fabrication needs of the knitwear item 1.
  • steps I)-XIII) of the step 102 can advantageously be repeated one or more times, until the completion of the upper portion 232.
  • new reference positions P3, P4 and P5 at which to modify interlacing of the knitted fabric can be taken into consideration.
  • the selection of the new reference positions P3, P4 and P5, can be made, for example, as a function of the type of decorative pattern to be fabricated in the upper portion 232.
  • steps I)-XIII), illustrated above, can be performed in different order to that indicated. Some steps can also be performed simultaneously, according to needs.
  • the knitwear item 1 has, at specific portions of the pectoral region 2, a knitted fabric with modified interlacing so as to better adapt to variations in the depth of the user's bust, typical of the pectoral region.
  • the knitwear item 1 thus ensures a high level of fit at the pectoral region, while simultaneously being very comfortable for the user.
  • the knitwear item 1 can be fabricated by means of a fabrication method easily implemented at industrial level, by means of knitting apparatus of known type.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Telephone Function (AREA)
  • Adornments (AREA)
  • Prostheses (AREA)

Claims (12)

  1. Vêtement tricoté (1), ou partie de celui-ci, comprenant une région pectorale (2) configurée pour être portée sur la poitrine de l'utilisateur, ladite région pectorale comprenant une zone centrale (21) et deux zones latérales (22, 23) qui sont sensiblement symétriques par rapport à ladite zone centrale, chacune desdites zones latérales comprenant une partie inférieure (221, 231) et une partie supérieure (222, 232) présentant un tissu tricoté avec un entrecroisement modifié par rapport au reste du vêtement tricoté, caractérisé en ce que :
    - le tissu tricoté de ladite partie inférieure comprend une pluralité de mailles (A1, Y, X1, Y1) qui sont doublées et définies en une position adjacente sur une série de rangées (R1, R2, R1', R2'), dans la direction (S1) vers ladite partie supérieure, de manière à obtenir un élargissement du tissu tricoté ;
    - le tissu tricoté de ladite partie supérieure comprend une pluralité de mailles (A2, B, B1, C) chevauchées sur une série de rangées (R4), dans la direction distale (S1) depuis ladite partie inférieure, de manière à obtenir un rétrécissement du tissu tricoté.
  2. Vêtement tricoté, ou partie de celui-ci, selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que chacune desdites zones latérales comprend une partie intermédiaire (223, 233), positionnée entre ladite partie inférieure et ladite partie supérieure, le tissu tricoté de ladite partie intermédiaire comprenant une série de rangées (RC), dans la direction distale (S1) depuis ladite partie inférieure, avec une largeur correspondant à la largeur de la dernière rangée (RL) du tissu tricoté de ladite partie inférieure.
  3. Vêtement tricoté, ou partie de celui-ci, selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que le tissu tricoté de ladite partie inférieure (221, 231) comprend au moins une paire (T1, T2) de rangées formée par :
    - une première rangée (R1, R1') comprenant une pluralité de mailles (A1, Y) qui sont doublées et définies en une position adjacente ;
    - une deuxième rangée (R2, R2'), chevauchée par ladite première rangée dans la direction (S1) de ladite partie supérieure et comprenant une pluralité de mailles (X1, Y1) qui sont doublées et définies en une position adjacente.
  4. Vêtement tricoté, ou partie de celui-ci, selon la revendication 3, caractérisé en ce que le tissu tricoté de ladite partie inférieure comprend une séquence de rangées formée par :
    - une première paire (T1) de rangées comprenant lesdites première et deuxième rangées (R1, R2) ;
    - une deuxième paire (T2) de rangées comprenant lesdites première et deuxième rangées (R1', R2') ;
    - une série de rangées intermédiaires (RI) qui sépare ladite première paire (T1) de rangées de ladite deuxième paire (T2) de rangées dans la direction (S1) de ladite partie supérieure, lesdites rangées intermédiaires (RI) présentant une largeur correspondant à la largeur de la deuxième rangée (R2) de ladite première paire (T1) de rangées.
  5. Vêtement tricoté, ou partie de celui-ci, selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que le tissu tricoté de ladite partie supérieure (222, 232) comprend une séquence de rangées comprenant :
    - une quatrième rangée (R4) comprenant une pluralité de mailles (A2, B, B1, C) se chevauchant ;
    - une ou plusieurs cinquièmes rangées (R5), chevauchées par ladite quatrième rangée dans la direction distale (S1) depuis ladite partie inférieure, avec une largeur correspondant à la largeur de ladite quatrième rangée.
  6. Procédé de fabrication d'un vêtement tricoté, ou d'une partie de celui-ci, au moyen d'un appareil de tricotage à double fonture, comprenant une première fonture (F1) et une seconde fonture (F2), ledit vêtement tricoté comprenant une région pectorale (2) configurée pour être portée sur la poitrine de l'utilisateur, ladite région pectorale comprenant une zone centrale (21) et deux zones latérales (22, 23) qui sont sensiblement symétriques par rapport à ladite zone centrale, ledit procédé comprenant les étapes (101, 102) de fabrication, pour chacune desdites zones latérales, d'une partie inférieure (221, 231) et d'une partie supérieure (222, 232), présentant un tissu tricoté avec un entrelacement modifié par rapport au reste du vêtement tricoté caractérisé en ce que,
    - le tissu tricoté de ladite partie inférieure comprend une pluralité de mailles (A1, Y, X1, Y1) qui sont doublées et définies en une position adjacente sur une série de rangées (R1, R2), dans la direction (S1) vers ladite partie supérieure, de manière à obtenir un élargissement dudit tissu tricoté ;
    - le tissu tricoté de ladite partie supérieure comprend une pluralité de mailles (A2, B, B1, C) chevauchées sur une série de rangées (R4), dans la direction distale (S1) depuis ladite partie inférieure, de manière à obtenir un rétrécissement du tissu tricoté.
  7. Procédé, selon la revendication 6, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend l'étape de fabrication, pour chacune desdites zones latérales (22, 23), d'une partie intermédiaire (223, 233), positionnée entre ladite partie inférieure et ladite partie supérieure, le tissu tricoté de ladite partie intermédiaire comprenant une série de rangées (RC), dans la direction distale (S1) depuis ladite partie inférieure, avec une largeur correspondant à la largeur de la dernière rangée (RL) du tissu tricoté de ladite partie inférieure.
  8. Procédé, selon l'une quelconque des revendications 6 ou 7, caractérisé en ce que l'étape (101) de fabrication de ladite partie inférieure (221, 231) comprend les étapes suivantes :
    i) la fabrication d'une première rangée (R1) présentant une pluralité de mailles qui occupent des positions d'aiguille correspondantes sur ladite première fonture (F1) ;
    ii) la sélection d'une première maille (A) dans ladite première rangée (R1), ladite première maille occupant, sur ladite première fonture (F1), une première position d'aiguille de référence (P1) ;
    iii) la sélection de deuxièmes mailles (Z) dans ladite première rangée (R1), lesdites deuxièmes mailles occupant, sur ladite première fonture (F1), les positions d'aiguille adjacentes (PZ) qui suivent ladite première position d'aiguille de référence (P1), dans la direction d'élargissement (D1) du tissu tricoté ;
    iv) la réalisation du doublage de ladite première maille (A) en une première maille doublée (A1) et en une deuxième maille doublée (Y), ladite première maille doublée (A1) occupant ladite première position d'aiguille de référence (P1) sur ladite première fonture (F1), ladite deuxième maille doublée étant déplacée dans ladite seconde fonture (F2) de manière à occuper ladite première position d'aiguille de référence (P1), sur ladite seconde fonture (F2) ;
    v) le déplacement desdites deuxièmes mailles (Z) dans ladite seconde fonture (F2), de manière à occuper, sur ladite seconde fonture (F2), les positions d'aiguille adjacentes (PZ) qui suivent ladite première position d'aiguille de référence (P1), dans la direction d'élargissement (D1) du tissu tricoté ;
    vi) le déplacement de ladite deuxième maille doublée (A2) et desdites deuxièmes mailles (Z) dans ladite première fonture (F1), en réalisant une première translation (K1) d'une position d'aiguille dans la direction d'élargissement (D1) du tissu tricoté, de manière à occuper, sur ladite première fonture (F1), les positions d'aiguille adjacentes (PZ) qui suivent ladite première position d'aiguille de référence (P1), dans la direction d'élargissement (D1) du tissu tricoté.
  9. Procédé, selon la revendication 8, caractérisé en ce que l'étape (101) de fabrication de ladite partie inférieure (221, 231) comprend les étapes supplémentaires suivantes :
    vii) la fabrication d'une deuxième rangée (R2), chevauchée par ladite première rangée dans la direction (S1) vers ladite partie supérieure, ladite deuxième rangée présentant une largeur correspondant à la largeur de ladite première rangée (R1), une fois lesdites étapes i) à vi) terminées, et comprenant une pluralité de mailles qui occupent des positions d'aiguille correspondantes sur ladite première fonture (F1) ;
    viii) la sélection d'une troisième maille (X) dans ladite deuxième rangée (R2), ladite troisième maille occupant, sur ladite première fonture (F1), une deuxième position d'aiguille de référence (P2) ;
    ix) la sélection de quatrièmes mailles (Z1) dans ladite deuxième rangée (R2), lesdites quatrièmes mailles occupant, sur ladite première fonture (F1), les positions d'aiguille adjacentes (PZ1) qui suivent ladite deuxième position d'aiguille de référence (P2), dans la direction d'élargissement (D1) du tissu tricoté ;
    x) la réalisation du doublage de ladite troisième maille (X) en une troisième maille doublée (X1) et en une quatrième maille doublée (Y1), ladite troisième maille doublée (X1) occupant ladite deuxième position d'aiguille de référence (P2) sur ladite première fonture (F1), ladite quatrième maille doublée (X1) étant déplacée dans ladite seconde fonture (F2) de manière à occuper ladite deuxième position d'aiguille de référence (P2), sur ladite seconde fonture (F2) ;
    xi) le déplacement desdites quatrièmes mailles (Z1) dans ladite seconde fonture (F2), de manière à occuper sur ladite seconde fonture (F2), les positions d'aiguille adjacentes (PZ1) qui suivent ladite deuxième position d'aiguille de référence (P2), dans la direction d'élargissement (D1) du tissu tricoté ;
    xii) le déplacement de ladite quatrième maille doublée (Y1) et desdites quatrièmes mailles (Z1) dans ladite première fonture (F1), en réalisant une deuxième translation (K2) d'une position d'aiguille dans la direction d'élargissement (D1) du tissu tricoté, de manière à occuper, sur ladite première fonture (F1), les positions d'aiguille adjacentes (PZ1) qui suivent ladite deuxième position d'aiguille de référence (P2), dans la direction d'élargissement (D1) du tissu tricoté.
  10. Procédé, selon la revendication 9, caractérisé en ce que l'étape (101) de fabrication de ladite partie inférieure (221, 231) comprend les étapes supplémentaires suivantes :
    xiii) la fabrication d'un ensemble de rangées intermédiaires (RI), dans la direction (S1) de ladite partie supérieure, lesdites rangées intermédiaires (RI) présentant une largeur correspondant à la largeur de ladite deuxième rangée (R2), une fois lesdites étapes vii)-xiii) terminées.
  11. Procédé, selon l'une quelconque des revendications 6 à 10, caractérisé en ce que l'étape (102) de fabrication de ladite partie supérieure (222, 232) comprend les étapes suivantes :
    I) la fabrication d'une quatrième rangée (R4) présentant une pluralité de mailles qui occupent des positions d'aiguille correspondantes sur ladite première fonture (F1) ;
    II) la sélection d'une cinquième maille (A2) dans ladite quatrième rangée (R4), avec une cinquième maille occupant, sur ladite première fonture (F1), une troisième position d'aiguille de référence (P3) ;
    III) la sélection d'une sixième maille (B1) dans ladite quatrième rangée (R4), ladite sixième maille occupant, sur ladite première fonture (F1), une quatrième position d'aiguille de référence (P4) qui précède ladite troisième position d'aiguille de référence (P3) dans la direction de rétrécissement (D2) du tissu tricoté ;
    IV) la sélection de septièmes mailles (B) dans ladite quatrième rangée (R4), lesdites septièmes mailles occupant, sur ladite première fonture (F1), les positions d'aiguille adjacentes (PB) comprises entre ladite troisième position d'aiguille de référence (P3) et ladite quatrième position d'aiguille de référence (P4) ;
    V) la sélection de huitièmes mailles (C) dans ladite quatrième rangée (R4), lesdites huitièmes mailles occupant, sur ladite première fonture (F1), les positions d'aiguille adjacentes (Pc) qui précèdent ladite quatrième position d'aiguille de référence (P4), dans la direction de rétrécissement (D2) du tissu tricoté ;
    VI) le déplacement de ladite cinquième maille (A2), de ladite sixième maille (B1) et desdites septièmes mailles (B) dans ladite seconde fonture (F2), de manière à occuper, sur ladite seconde fonture (F2), ladite troisième position d'aiguille de référence (P3), ladite quatrième position d'aiguille de référence (P4) et les positions d'aiguille adjacentes (PB) comprises entre ladite troisième position d'aiguille de référence (P3) et ladite quatrième position d'aiguille de référence (P4), respectivement ;
    VII) le déplacement desdites septièmes mailles (B) et de ladite sixième maille (B1) dans ladite première fonture (F1), en réalisant une troisième translation (K3) d'une position d'aiguille dans la direction de rétrécissement (D2) du tissu tricoté, de manière à occuper, sur ladite première fonture (F1), ladite troisième position d'aiguille de référence (P3) et les positions d'aiguille adjacentes (PB) qui précèdent ladite troisième position d'aiguille de référence, dans la direction de rétrécissement (D2) du tissu tricoté, ladite sixième maille (B1) occupant, après ladite troisième translation, une cinquième position d'aiguille de référence (P5), sur ladite première fonture (F1) ;
    VIII) le déplacement de ladite sixième maille (B1) dans ladite seconde fonture (F2), de manière à occuper ladite cinquième position d'aiguille de référence (P5) sur ladite seconde fonture (F2) ;
    IX) le déplacement desdites huitièmes mailles (C) dans ladite seconde fonture (F2), de manière à occuper, sur ladite seconde fonture (F2), les positions d'aiguille adjacentes (Pc) qui précèdent ladite quatrième position d'aiguille de référence (P4), dans la direction de rétrécissement (D2) du tissu tricoté ;
    X) le déplacement desdites huitièmes mailles (C) dans ladite première fonture (F1), en réalisant une quatrième translation (K4) de deux positions d'aiguille dans la direction de rétrécissement (D2) du tissu tricoté, de manière à occuper, sur ladite première fonture (F1), ladite cinquième position d'aiguille de référence (P5) et les positions d'aiguille adjacentes (P4, PC) qui précèdent ladite cinquième position d'aiguille de référence, dans la position de rétrécissement (D2) du tissu tricoté ;
    XI) le déplacement de ladite cinquième maille (A2) dans ladite première fonture (F1), de sorte que ladite cinquième maille soit chevauchée par la maille (B) qui occupe ladite troisième position d'aiguille de référence (P3), sur ladite première fonture (F1) ;
    XII) le déplacement de ladite sixième maille (B1) dans ladite première fonture (F1) de sorte que ladite sixième maille soit chevauchée par la maille (C) qui occupe ladite cinquième position d'aiguille de référence (P5), sur ladite première fonture (F1).
  12. Procédé, selon la revendication 11, caractérisé en ce que l'étape (102) de fabrication de ladite partie supérieure (222, 232) comprend les étapes supplémentaires suivantes :
    XIII) la fabrication d'une ou de plusieurs cinquièmes rangées (R5), chevauchées par ladite quatrième rangée (R4) dans la direction distale (S1) depuis ladite partie inférieure, lesdites cinquièmes rangées présentant une largeur correspondant à la largeur de ladite quatrième rangée, une fois lesdites étapes I)-XII) terminées.
EP12761714.0A 2011-09-02 2012-08-30 Vêtement tricoté ou partie de celui-ci et procédé de fabrication correspondant Active EP2748360B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
IT000120A ITTV20110120A1 (it) 2011-09-02 2011-09-02 Articolo di maglieria, o parte di esso, e metodo di realizzazione relativo
PCT/EP2012/066828 WO2013030257A2 (fr) 2011-09-02 2012-08-30 Vêtement tricoté ou partie de celui-ci et procédé de fabrication associé

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EP2748360A2 EP2748360A2 (fr) 2014-07-02
EP2748360B1 true EP2748360B1 (fr) 2017-08-09

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EP12761714.0A Active EP2748360B1 (fr) 2011-09-02 2012-08-30 Vêtement tricoté ou partie de celui-ci et procédé de fabrication correspondant

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EP (1) EP2748360B1 (fr)
ES (1) ES2645201T3 (fr)
IT (1) ITTV20110120A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2013030257A2 (fr)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE112018008083B4 (de) 2018-10-17 2023-05-11 Dmitry Valeryevich Marchenkov Volumentrikotage

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102018106524B3 (de) * 2018-03-20 2019-08-01 Anna Obrezkina Strickbekleidung

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB1106145A (en) * 1964-04-18 1968-03-13 Cotton Ltd W Production of knitted articles having pouches on straight bar knitting machines
DE2410368A1 (de) * 1974-03-05 1975-09-11 Dieter Graether Gestricktes oder gewirktes damenoberbekleidungsstueck
US5692399A (en) * 1991-07-05 1997-12-02 Shima Seiki Mfg., Ltd. Method of knitting fabric having three-dimensional silhouette shape

Non-Patent Citations (1)

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Title
None *

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE112018008083B4 (de) 2018-10-17 2023-05-11 Dmitry Valeryevich Marchenkov Volumentrikotage

Also Published As

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ES2645201T3 (es) 2017-12-04
WO2013030257A2 (fr) 2013-03-07
WO2013030257A3 (fr) 2013-05-30
ITTV20110120A1 (it) 2013-03-03
EP2748360A2 (fr) 2014-07-02

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