EP2320869A1 - Émulsion sans tensioactifs exerçant un effet anti-âge, sa préparation et son utilisation - Google Patents

Émulsion sans tensioactifs exerçant un effet anti-âge, sa préparation et son utilisation

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Publication number
EP2320869A1
EP2320869A1 EP09781131A EP09781131A EP2320869A1 EP 2320869 A1 EP2320869 A1 EP 2320869A1 EP 09781131 A EP09781131 A EP 09781131A EP 09781131 A EP09781131 A EP 09781131A EP 2320869 A1 EP2320869 A1 EP 2320869A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
derivatives
acid
extracts
ganoderma
aqueous
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP09781131A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Wolf-Dieter Juelich
Hans-Peter Welzel
Ulrike Lindequist
Ottmar Geiger
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
HC Berlin Pharma Ag
Universitaet Greifswald
Original Assignee
HC Berlin Pharma Ag
Ernst Moritz Arndt Universitaet Greifswald
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by HC Berlin Pharma Ag, Ernst Moritz Arndt Universitaet Greifswald filed Critical HC Berlin Pharma Ag
Publication of EP2320869A1 publication Critical patent/EP2320869A1/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9728—Fungi, e.g. yeasts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/33—Free of surfactant
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/52—Stabilizers
    • A61K2800/522—Antioxidants; Radical scavengers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations

Definitions

  • the object of the invention is a process for the preparation of surfactant-free emulsions from the annual mugwort (Artemisia annua) and fungi of the genus Ganoderma, which are characterized by improved properties, in particular by free radical scavenging properties and an anti-aging effect and therefore diverse can be used in cosmetics.
  • the annual mugwort ⁇ Artemisia annua) has been used for millennia as a medicinal plant.
  • the plant is native to Europe and Asia. It grows 2 to 3 m high and has fresh green, heavily divided leaves and tiny cream-colored flower heads. For medical purposes, the aerial parts of the plant are used.
  • the preparation and use of extracts from Artemisia and their use in the fields of nutrition, cosmetics and medicine is known from the literature (eg Applied Biochemistry and Biotechnology, 1990, VoI 24/25, pp 213-222).
  • the ingredients of the annual mugwort ⁇ Artemisia annua) have a high activity against the malaria parasite.
  • the drug In contrast to other malaria drugs, the drug has few side effects and also a very favorable resistance, whereby it can be combined with other substances.
  • the actual active ingredient is artemisinin (artemesin, cotexin), a secondary plant substance (sesquiterpene with peroxide group), which occurs in the leaves and flowers of annual mugwort ⁇ Artemisia annua). Like all phytochemicals, these are associated in the biomass with other similar substances, since the biochemical pathways are not single-tracked. So are 9 other related substances, which also against the Malaria parasites act in the plants. Over 200 ingredients could be detected in the plant parts in total.
  • artemisinin discussed in the literature is closely related to the chemical structure.
  • the peroxide group contained in the molecule is unstable in the presence of high concentrations of iron ions and forms free radicals. Such high levels are found in red blood cells and also in malaria pathogens that accumulate iron. If artemisinin gets into erythrocytes, free radicals are formed and the parasite may be killed. There is also evidence that artemisinin derivatives inhibit certain enzymes.
  • From one hectare of plants can harvest one to two tons of leaves from which about two to three kilograms of artemisinin can be obtained. Extraction from vegetable raw materials is complicated by the fact that the artemisinin content of the plants is very low and has considerable fluctuations. It is usually between 0.1 and 0.4%, based on the dry weight. Ideally, can be from a hectare Plant material to harvest one to two tons of leaves from which by extraction with non-polar solvents such as hexane and subsequent treatment with petroleum ether about 2 to 3 kg of artemisinin can be obtained. The result is an oily-yellow extract of the plant, which is refined to gel and then to white, crystalline powder containing artemisinin as a so-called Blutschizontozid.
  • Artemisia annua is mainly used in combinations.
  • KR20030051517 describes a dietary supplement containing, in addition to Hovenia dulcis Thunberg and Semisulcospira libertine, 8% of Artemisia luayomogi as its main constituents.
  • KR20030005127 a dietary supplement is described, which in addition to Hoving Dulis Thunb and Alnus rubra Hovenia dulcis contains as main ingredients an addition of 10% Artemisia capillaris.
  • Artemisia capillaris is described in CN1615927 among other things as an anti-hypertensive agent, the prior art is a mixture with various Chinese plants.
  • CN 1969679 describes the combined use of Artemisia capillaris and G. lucidum in the form of a tea.
  • JP2000143437 a cosmetic is described which contains at least 2 of the following plant extracts: Veronica undulata Wall, Ottelia alismoides pers., Artemisia apiacea Hance, Artemisia annua L., Andrographis paniculata Nees, Dichroa febrifuga Lour., Eclipta prostrata L., Dipsacus asper Wall, Dipsacus japonicus Miq., Boehmeria nivea Gaud., Polygonum aviculare L., Sterculia lychnophera Hance, Carpesium abrotanoides L. and Polyporus mylittae Cook.
  • a combination of sugar alcohols, such as xylitol or erythritol, and plant extracts, which may also contain, among others, Artemisia capillaries, is described in JP2001081008 for external application to the skin.
  • a dietary supplement containing an Artemisia capillaris Thunb. Extract is described in KR20050024920. This nutritional supplement is said to counteract skin aging.
  • KR20050001730 describes a dietary supplement with immuno-activating and anti-tumor activity, which i.a. G. lucidum (FR) Karst and Artemisia Messerschmidtiana Besser contains.
  • Triterpenes isolated from Ganoderma concinna can induce apoptosis in HL-60 cells (Gonzalez AG, Leon F, Rivera A, Padron JI, Gonzalez-Plata J, Zuluaga JC et al., New Lanostanoids from the Fungus Ganoderma concinna J Nat Prod 2002; 65: 417 '-2I).
  • Triterpenes, available from Ganoderma applanatum are effective against mouse skin tumors (Chairul, Tokuyama T, Hayashi Y, Nishizawa M, Tokuda H, Chairul SM, Hayashi Y.
  • Applanoxidic acids A, B, C and D biologically active tetracyclic triterpenes from Ganoderma applanatum, Phytochemistry 1991; 30: 4105-9; Chairul, Chairul SM, Hayashi Y. Lanostanoid triterpenes from Ganoderma applanatum, Phytochemistry 1994; 35: 1305-8).
  • a derivative of illudin was effective in clinical studies (Murgo A, Cannon DJ, Blatner G, Cheson BD, Clinical Trials of MGI-114, Oncology 1999, 13: 233-8).
  • lentinan in addition to chemotherapy in patients with gastric cancer, colon cancer and other tumors has proved to be successful (Hazama S, Oka M, Yoshino S, Iizuka N, Wadamori K, Yamamoto et al., Clinical effects and immunological analysis of intraabdominal and intrapleural injection of lentinan for malignant ascites and pleural effusion of gastric carcinoma., Cancer & Chemotherapy 1995; 22: 1595-7).
  • CN1351886 describes an agent of 20 components of Chinese medicine, which contains, inter alia, G. lucidum and Artemisia capillaris and which is to be used in liver diseases.
  • CN1092295 also teaches the use of G. lucidum and Artemisia capillaris in a combination of many herbal extracts to combat various
  • JP2048517 describes a hair care product, which i.a. Artemisia apiacea Hance and
  • G. lucidum contains.
  • Skin aging refers to the complex biological process of alteration of the skin associated with aging. While the intrinsic aging, ie the genetically controlled diminished reactivity of skin cells can not be influenced, extrinsic factors (environmental factors such as ultraviolet light, chemical light) can be influenced by extrinsic factors Reagents, mechanical stress, stress, heat and cold) caused cell aging can be reduced by anti-aging preparations. In particular, under the influence of free radicals, there is an exhaustion of the cell processes, cell division, increased permeability of the cell membranes and an insufficient supply of the cells.
  • extrinsic factors environment factors such as ultraviolet light, chemical light
  • Reagents mechanical stress, stress, heat and cold
  • the skin gets deep wrinkles and wrinkles, their dry surface tends to tears and pseudo colors, the epidermis is thinner. It is produced less fat, the skin loses its elasticity and is no longer so regenerative. Because UVA radiation penetrates deep into the skin, it produces singlet oxygen in the dermis. This causes the production of enzymes that damage the collagen fibers and thus reduce the firmness of the skin. At the same time, elastic fibers swell, resulting in loss of elasticity of the skin.
  • UV radiation A major cause of premature skin aging is UV radiation.
  • conventional sunscreens based on titanium dioxide (TiO 2 ) the reflection and adsorption by microfine particles of titanium dioxide or zinc oxide, which reflect the incident UV light, exploited to avoid erythema (sunburn). Act as inorganic UV filters. In modern preparations, the pigment particles are reduced to about 200 nanometers.
  • sunscreen products there are therefore a large number of substances which are intended to neutralize free radicals: vitamin E, vitamin C, glucosylrutin, follicular glucitol, ginkgo extract, thermal water, silymarin, superoxide dismutase, green tea extract, bacterial lysates, organic melanin, ferulic acid or carboxymethyl glucan.
  • a potent radical scavenger is the flavonoid glucosylrutin, which is applied in combination with vitamin E as a Pre Sun cream for the prevention of polymorphic light dermatosis days before staying in the sun (Hadschiew 1997).
  • the same principle follows the recommendation to saturate the skin early with a highly concentrated vitamin E cream (example Optolind E) (Heinrich 1994).
  • vitamin E tocopherol
  • Pure vitamin E creams achieve a sun protection factor of about 3.
  • the peroral intake in the epidermis can not achieve sufficiently high tocopherol concentrations.
  • studies have shown that exposure to sunlight can reduce skin vitamin E levels by up to fifty percent (Thiele 1998). Therefore, a local application is required.
  • vitamin E penetrates well into the epidermis, where it is cleaved by esterases into free vitamin E. Due to its structure, it can be stored well in the cell wall and protects it from the attack of radicals. To characterize the quality of a sunscreen protection against sunburn in the future will no longer be in the foreground.
  • a pharmaceutical or cosmetic composition comprising extracts of plants of the species Artemisia annua and extracts of fungi of the genus Ganoderma, wherein the extracts of plants of the species Artemisia annua obtained with polar solvents after removal of artemisinin (sesquiterpene peroxides) in a nonpolar solvent extraction step.
  • nonpolar solvents In the multistage extraction process according to the invention is extracted in the first step with nonpolar solvents.
  • nonpolar solvents By extraction with pentane, hexane, Petro lether or other non-polar solvents, the removal of artemisinin and lipids, which can be fed to a separate use.
  • the extraction method with nonpolar Solvents such as pentane or petroleum ether can be carried out in a known manner both batchwise and with continuous processes such as extraction by means of Soxhlet apparatus or percolator.
  • the resulting plant material is suitably freed from adhering residual solvent, for example by vacuum drying.
  • the resulting biomass - in the presence of iron ions - in contrast to the starting material has no cytotoxicity. It is therefore much better suited as a component in cosmetics than the direct use of the plant material corresponding in the prior art.
  • the resulting biomass contains active ingredients with a high radical scavenging capacity, which protect the plant from self-damage by free radicals.
  • the resulting biomass is subjected to a second extraction according to the invention. This, in turn, may be alcoholic, aqueous-alcoholic or aqueous, surprisingly finding active substances with free radical scavenging properties in each extract.
  • first artemisinin and lipids are removed from the plant material as in the two-stage process with nonpolar solvents such as pentane, hexane or petroleum ether.
  • the extracted plant material is freed, for example by vacuum drying, of the adhering residual solvent and subjected to a second extraction with lower alcohols such as methanol or ethanol, resulting in an alcoholic extract.
  • lower alcohols such as methanol or ethanol
  • a third extraction stage can now after removal of residual alcohol, for. B. in vacuo or even without removal of the still adhering alcohol, other agents are obtained by aqueous extraction.
  • both discontinuous and continuous methods such as extraction by means of Soxhlet apparatus or percolator are suitable.
  • the aqueous-alcoholic or aqueous extraction is expediently carried out discontinuously, for example in the form of a maceration.
  • the object of improving the applicability of the biomass of Artemisia annua as a health-promoting agent was solved by either dried and crushed plants of the species Artemisia annua or the residues the above-described extraction of the plants with pentane, hexane, petroleum ether or other non-polar solvents on the one hand with dried and crushed mycelium and / or fruiting bodies of fungi of one or more species of the genus Ganoderma on the other hand mixed and the mixture of an alcoholic, aqueous-alcoholic or aqueous extraction is subjected.
  • Triterpenes are biologically active phytochemicals that have antimicrobial, especially antiviral and anti-inflammatory properties.
  • the content of some triterpenes in G. pfeifferi is partially increased up to a factor of 100 compared with G. lucidum.
  • the content of the triterpene Lucialdehyd B in G. lucidum is, for example, 0.14 mg / 100 g, in G. pfeifferi, however, 19.2 mg / 100 g.
  • the plant and mushroom extracts obtained according to the invention if appropriate with addition of further triterpenes, in particular of triterpenic acids such as ursolic acids, betulinic acid and / or boswellic acids, are suspended in natural waxes, preferably in jojoba oil. Homogenising gives a solid-stabilized emulsion with an anti-aging effect, which makes it possible to produce various cosmetic products without further emulsifiers, especially without synthetic surfactants.
  • triterpenic acids such as ursolic acids, betulinic acid and / or boswellic acids
  • micropigments incorporated as solids preferably metal oxides and / or other sparingly soluble or insoluble metal compounds in water, as well as possibly also the UV filters - in addition to their actual purpose - also contribute to the stabilization of the formulation.
  • the micropigments bind to the oil phase of the system and thereby simultaneously improve the spreadability of the formulation on the skin. Due to the stabilizing effect of the micropigments can be largely dispensed with other surface-active excipients. This reduces the risk of skin intolerance altogether.
  • surfactant-free sunscreen emulsions eliminates possible interactions of surfactants with the skin.
  • surfactants tend to interact in particular with the intercellular lipids of the stratum corneum and thus can weaken the epidermal barrier function.
  • they due to their penetration-promoting properties, they are able to channel ingredients of the formulation with irritative or allergenic potential more strongly into the skin.
  • the combination of UVA radiation and certain ingredients in cosmetics, especially lipids and surfactants can trigger the so-called ceremoniesn acne.
  • inventive preparations which are free of synthetic surfactants and at the same time have a high UVA protection, this typical skin reaction is not expected.
  • the jojoba oil contained in the preparations according to the invention enhances the cytoprotective effect and reduces the risk of side effects.
  • a further advantage of surfactant-free emulsion systems is that they are very suitable as bases for spray products.
  • Surfactant-containing spray emulsions feel sticky on the skin.
  • the inventive solid-stabilized emulsions protect the skin without leaving a greasy film on the skin.
  • Polymers based on polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) or other polymeric film formers, such as sodium polystyrene sulfonate, form after evaporation of the solvent, a film that contributes significantly to the protective function.
  • the sunscreen according to the invention act prophylactically by the combination of UV filters, radical scavengers and anti-inflammatory substances in preventing UV-related premature skin aging and, moreover, anti-inflammatory.
  • the extracts of Artemisia annua have a high radical scavenger capacity, but significantly decreases at higher dilutions.
  • the radical scavenging activity of Artemisia annua in this dilution is not sufficient (radical scavenging activity of the aqueous or alcoholic extract in the DPPH test between 34 and 38%).
  • the combination with G. pfeifferi thus additionally reduces the oxidative stress and enhances the endogenous radical defense and thus supports the anti-aging effect.
  • the ingredients ganomycin A and B which are only found in G. pfeifferi, inhibit luminol-induced and spontaneous oxygen radical release at a concentration of 10 ⁇ g / ml.
  • the combination increases the proliferation of human keratinocytes. Under the influence of the combination, the glucose consumption of human cells increases, indicating a stimulation of the metabolism. It has been found that the formation of proteins is promoted and cell aging is slowed down.
  • the increased cell permeability under UV influence - measurable by determining the LDH activity in the medium - is reduced.
  • the regeneration capacity of the cells after UV damage is significantly increased.
  • the stimulating effect on healthy cells is only detectable in lipophilic extracts of G.pfeifferi.
  • the glucan content of the aqueous extract which stimulates the immune system, is significantly lower in G.pfeifferi than in G. lucidum or G. tsugae.
  • the combination of the ethanolic extract of G. pfeifferi and the aqueous extract of G. lucidum or G. tsugae produces the desired effect.
  • a significant advantage of the preparations according to the invention is that the cell protection is completed by triterpenes from Ganoderma species.
  • triterpenes from Ganoderma concinna can initiate apoptosis of cells at an early stage which has degenerated despite the radical scavenging effect.
  • Tetracyclic triterpenes and lanostanoid triterpenes from Ganoderma applanatum support the body in the defense against tumors, so that their admixture brings particular benefits.
  • the cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations according to the invention may contain further plant extracts.
  • extracts of special plants such as green tea, witch hazel, chamomile, marigold, Paeonie, aloe vera, horse chestnut, sage, willow bark, hawthorn, lime blossom, almonds, spruce needles, sandalwood, coconut, kiwi, guava, lime, mango, apricot , Wheat, melon, orange, grapefruit, avocado, rosemary, mallow, meadowfoam, thyme, lemon balm, marshmallow, mallow, ginseng, birch, with extracts from the divisible forming tissue being preferred.
  • the cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations according to the invention can also be combined with algae extracts.
  • Suitable algae extracts come from green algae, brown algae, red algae or blue algae (cyanobacteria).
  • formulations according to the invention which use the natural substances of various plants and fungi, make better use of their active ingredients by the solid-state-stabilized emulsions according to the invention and bring them to penetration more rapidly than formulations with large drops of oil.
  • Sprays based on the surfactant-free emulsions according to the invention can be used both for protection against UV radiation and as after-sun products.
  • Preparations for protection against UV radiation in the context of the present invention preferably contain at least one UV-A, UV-B and / or broadband feed substance.
  • the formulations may, although not necessary, optionally also contain one or more organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which may be present in the water and / or the oil phase.
  • the pigments can be used advantageously in the context of the present invention also in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous Predispersions are used.
  • the pigments may advantageously be surface-treated (coated), forming, for example, a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character, This surface treatment may consist in using a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic pigment inorganic and / or organic layer
  • This various surface coatings contribute according to the invention to stabilize the emulsion.
  • Inorganic surface coatings in the context of the present invention may consist of aluminum oxide (Al 2 O 3), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) 3 or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS No .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPOs) 6 , Sodium metaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) ", silicon dioxide (SiO 2 ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9), or iron oxide (Fe 2 O 3 ).
  • Al 2 O 3 aluminum oxide
  • Al aluminum hydroxide Al
  • Al oxide hydrate also: alumina, CAS No .: 1333-84-2
  • sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPOs) 6 e.g., sodium metaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) "
  • silicon dioxide (SiO 2 ) also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9
  • iron oxide Fe 2 O 3
  • Organic surface coatings in the context of the present invention may consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane units and silica gel) or alginic acid.
  • These organic surface coatings may be present alone, in combination and / or in combination with inorganic coating materials.
  • the preparations of the invention contain the substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range, in a total amount of z. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 20% by weight, in particular 1.0% to 15.0% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the preparations, of cosmetic preparations available which protect the skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation.
  • vitamins and antioxidants are selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles, (eg urocaninic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (eg anserine), Carotenoids, carotenes and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives, aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, Propyl, amyl, butyl
  • amino acids eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan
  • imidazoles eg urocaninic acid
  • Mixtures of antioxidants are also suitable for use in the cosmetic preparations according to the invention. Particular preference is given to phenolic acids and flavonoids.
  • inventive preparations to support the anti-aging effect protein hydrolysates or their derivative may contain.
  • both vegetable and animal protein hydrolysates can be used.
  • Animal protein hydrolysates are z. B. elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be in the form of salts.
  • Vegetable protein hydrolysates eg. Soy, wheat, almonds, peas, potato and rice protein hydrolysates.
  • amino acid mixtures or individual amino acids obtained otherwise, for example, may optionally be present in their place Arginine, lysine, histidine or pyrroglutamic acid.
  • the additional protein hydrolysates and their derivatives are contained in amounts of 0.01 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0, 1 to 5 wt.%, In particular 0, 1 to 3 wt .-%, are particularly preferred.
  • the surfactant-free emulsions are therefore advantageously substances selected from the group of glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, Biosaccaride Gum-1, Glycine soybean, Ethy lhexy Io xy glycerol, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and urea added.
  • polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gellable polysaccharides.
  • the preparations according to the invention may contain mono-, oligo- or polysaccharides or their derivatives.
  • Suitable monosaccharides are, for. As glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose and talose, the deoxy sugars fucose and rhamnose and amino sugars such.
  • glucosamine or galactosamine Preferred are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and fucose; Glucose is particularly preferred.
  • Suitable oligosaccharides are composed of two to ten monosaccharide units, e.g. As sucrose, lactose or trehalose.
  • a particularly preferred oligosaccharide is sucrose.
  • honey which contains predominantly glucose and sucrose.
  • Suitable polysaccharides are composed of more than ten monosaccharide units.
  • Preferred polysaccharides are the starches made from aD-glucose units and starch degradation products such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins.
  • Particularly advantageous according to the invention are chemically and / or thermally modified starches, for. B. Hydroxypropyl Chamberphosphat, Dihydroxypropyidiroomphosphat or further preferred are dextrans and their derivatives, for. B. dextran sulfate.
  • nonionic cellulose derivatives such as methylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose or hydroxyethylcellulose, as well as cationic cellulose derivatives.
  • Further preferred examples are polysaccharides from fucose units.
  • the polysaccharides composed of amino sugar units in particular chitins and their deacetylated derivatives, the chitosans, and mucopolysaccharides.
  • the inventively preferred mucopolysaccharides include hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, e.g. As sodium hyaluronate or Dimethylsilanolhyaluronat, and chondroitin and its derivatives, for. B. chondroitin sulfate.
  • the polymeric active ingredients used in surfactant-free systems do not penetrate the skin due to their molecular size, but remain as a film on the skin surface.
  • cosmetic preparations are generally not conceivable without further customary auxiliaries and additives.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations may, for example, comprise bodying agents, fillers, perfumes, foaming inhibitors, dyes, pigments, coloring matter, thickening agents, insect repellents, water, salts, proteolytically or keratolytically active substances, medicaments or other conventional ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation.
  • a major advantage of surfactant-free spray emulsions is that they can be autoclaved after preparation. This allows a germ-free application on the skin without the need for a preservative. Contamination during use is largely excluded by the spray form.
  • antimicrobial agents are selected from the Groups of parabens, such as methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, isopropylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben, sodium-methylparaben, sodium-ethylparaben, sodium-propylparaben, sodiumisobutylparaben, sodiumisopropylparaben or sodium-butylparaben, imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, 2-bromo- 2-nitropropane-1,3-diol, sorbic acid, potassium sorbate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, benzethonium chloride,
  • Terpenes and / or antimicrobial agents can be released from the preparations according to the invention in certain applications. This is particularly important for the following specific application.
  • the human pathogenic species of the genus Candida colonize skin and mucous membranes in many healthy people, without causing symptoms.
  • the fungal cells proliferate, eg after damage to the bacterial mucous membrane flora by antibiotics or with reduced immune defense, they often cause local inflammations, which are also referred to as thrush.
  • silk or microfiber, which can be washed only at 30 or 40 0 C, are processed into garments, fungi such as Candida albicans are not killed. In particular, after a fungal infection it can come so by adhering to the garments, not killed fungi to a reinfection.
  • antimicrobial substances which either inhibit the growth of fungi (fungistats), kill them (fungicides) and / or reduce the adhesion of the fungi.
  • non-selective antimicrobial substances are used which act both against bacteria and against fungi.
  • compounds are often used which, due to the concentration in which they must be used, have toxic properties, can cause skin irritation or have other undesirable properties.
  • the emulsions according to the invention in suitable formulations release terpenes and / or antifungal agents, are able to very effectively reduce the adhesion of microorganisms to surfaces, wherein the surfaces are both natural surfaces as well as artificial surfaces and in this case both biotic and abiotic surfaces.
  • the terpenes to be released are selected from terpene alcohols, ie such terpenes, preferably mono-, sesqui- and / or diterpenes, which carry a free hydroxyl group. Citronellols, geraniol, farnesol and patchouli alcohol are particularly preferred.
  • perfume alcohols selected from eugenol, cinnamyl alcohol and anethole, in particular eugenol can be added to the emulsions in this specific application.
  • 2,5-Dihydroxybenzoic acid which was found in G. pfeifferi, but not in other Ganoderma species, acts as antifungal agent.
  • the antiadhesive substances are hereby preferably present in amounts of up to 3% by weight, more preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 1% by weight, in the preparations.
  • the combination of the antimicrobial peroxide-containing active substances from Artemisia annua with the biomass of G. pfeifferi derived antimicrobial agents, in particular with the ganomycins, with 2,4,5-trihydroxybenzaldehyde and / or 2,5-dihydroxybenzoic acid of particular advantage.
  • An advantage of the emulsions according to the invention is that they have only very low toxicity when maintaining these concentrations, in particular in comparison to the conventionally used antimycotics, fungicides and fungistats.
  • the cultivation of G. pfeifferi is possible with liquid medium.
  • the yield is on average 5 g mycelium / 1.
  • the lyophilized or air dried mycelium is available for blending with the biomass of Artemisia annua.
  • Ganoderma pfeiffer fruiting bodies were obtained by wild collection in Schlosspark Ludwigsburg. In addition, cultured fruiting bodies, which were obtained by the company GAMU GmbH, Krefeld, were used.
  • the collected fruiting bodies of Ganoderma pfeifferi were purified, cut into small pieces, dried in air at room temperature and then freeze-dried in a high vacuum. The cut and dried pieces were then pulverized in an analytical mill and then stored in opaque containers at room temperature. By means of three different extraction methods were gained ethanolic extracts. Applied were a hot or cold extraction and extraction with the extractor.
  • the pulverized fruit body was mixed in a paper tube with ethanol 80% (V / V) and then extracted by the Soxhlet method for about 24 h.
  • the initial weight for G. pfeifferi was 12.5 g.
  • the recovered liquid extracts were concentrated and freeze-dried.
  • the extraction was carried out by means of extractor ASE 200. In each case 2 g of drug material were weighed with 15 g of sea sand in a paper tube. Extraction was carried out at a pressure of 2000 psi (pounds per square inch) with a service life (residence time of the solvent in the extraction cell at each extraction step) of 2 minutes. As extraction agent EtOH 80% (V / V) was used at an extraction temperature of 60 0 C.
  • Example 3b Alcoholic extraction (continuous, Soxhlet extraction)
  • Example 3d Aqueous extraction (discontinuous)
  • Example 4 Extraction of Artemisia annua (artemisinin free) extracts
  • Example 4a Separation of the peroxide-containing compounds by extraction of Artemisia annua with petroleum ether (discontinuous)
  • Example 4b Separation of the peroxide-containing compounds by extraction of Artemisia annua with petroleum ether (continuous)
  • Example 4d Extraction of Peroxide-Free Extracts by Extraction with Ethanol (discontinuous)
  • Example 4e Aqueous-Alcoholic Extraction (discontinuous)
  • Example 5 Obtaining the anti-aging agents according to the invention by co-extraction of Ganoderma pfeifferi and Artemisia annua. (Continuous)
  • Example 6 Obtaining the anti-aging agents according to the invention by co-extraction of Ganoderma pfeifferi and Artemisia annua. (discontinuous)
  • Example 7 Obtaining the anti-aging agents according to the invention by mixing extracts of Ganoderma pfeifferi and Artemisia annua.
  • the detection was carried out as follows:
  • the extracts clearly inhibit luminol-induced and spontaneous
  • the Roti-Nanoquant working solution was prepared by diluting the stock solution in
  • Ratio 1 5 with double-distilled water. produced.
  • Ratio 1 5 with double-distilled water. produced.
  • Incubator incubated at 37 0 C, 95% humidity and 5% CO 2 for 2 hours.
  • Dry extract was weighed exactly and distilled into 200 ⁇ l of ethanol. solved. From the batch, a stock solution of 1 mg / ml in double-distilled water. produced. The working solutions were prepared by diluting the stock solution with nutrient medium.
  • the destruction of the cell walls followed, in order to bring the intercellular proteins into solution and then quantify them.
  • the use solutions were first removed from the plate and then washed 5 times with 200 ul / well PBS. After adding 100 .mu.l of a 0.1% Tritonates in Tris buffer (pH 7.2) per well, the plate was shaken for 30 min and then frozen. After thawing, the contents of the wells were thoroughly mixed using a pipette and then centrifuged at 4000 rpm for 4 minutes. From the plate thus treated, 10 ⁇ l each were transferred to the corresponding well of a new plate, the last row was released for the calibration curve. For this purpose, albumin, fraction V was used.
  • a stock solution of concentration 1 mg / ml in 0.1% Triton solution in Tris buffer (pH 7.2) was prepared. Starting from this, the corresponding dilutions (0-500 ⁇ g / ml) were then prepared and 10 ⁇ l each pipetted into the corresponding wells. Subsequently, 40 ⁇ l of PBS and 200 ⁇ l of Roti-Nanoquant working solution per well were pipetted. After 5 min of incubation, the optical density (OD) was determined at 2 wavelengths (405 nm and 620 nm). For evaluation, the quotient of 620 nm and 405 nm was formed.
  • the protein content increases under the influence of G. pfeifferi (GPS) and combinations containing G.pfeifferi to 110 and 125%.
  • G. pfeifferi G. pfeifferi
  • An increase in the G. pfeifferi proportion in the mixture does not lead to an improvement in the effect.
  • DMEM without phenol red with 100 ⁇ g / l glucose and 110 mg / l Na pyruvate (Gibco), modified with 20 mM L-glutamine, IM Hepes, 5 U penicillin / 5 mg streptomycin / ml (Sigma) and 10% FCS (Biochrom KG, Berlin)
  • Elimination of cell division First, a mitomycin C stock solution was prepared from 2 mg mitomycin C (Sigma) dissolved in 0.1 ml DMSO and 1.9 ml PBS and frozen in 50 ⁇ l aliquots.
  • the cell culture medium was decanted from the confluent cell lawn of the FL cell culture, replaced with 5 ml of culture medium with 50 ⁇ l Mitomyxin stock solution and incubated for 2 hours / 37 ° C. Thereafter, it was washed 3 times with PBS (without Ca ++ 'Mg ++ , PAA), the cells were detached with trypsin / EDTA (Sigma), the cell count was determined and adjusted to a concentration of 4 ⁇ 10 5 / ml with cell culture medium.
  • Cultivation on the cell carriers In each cell suspension (13 mm round, Thermanox platelets (Nunc Ine, Naperville, IL USA) in a Minusheet cell holder system (Minucells & Minutissue GmbH, Bad Abbach) in a microculture well a 24-well Cell culture plate (Nunc GmbH & Co KG, Wiesbaden) pipetted, cultured for 24 hours (37 0 C, 5% CO 2 , 97% humidity) and then each set up 6 cell carriers in a perfusion cell chamber upright.
  • Minusheet cell holder system Minucells & Minutissue GmbH, Bad Abbach
  • FIG. 1 shows an extension of Action time of the 2% suspension to 72 h increases the effect (Fig. 2), the promotional effect is detectable over a longer period.
  • the daily intake was limited to 0.5 ml of the 2% suspension given within 111 min, i. Thereafter, the cells received over 1329 min a medium without drug addition. The daily delivery of the drug was reduced to 0.012% of the cell culture medium with this assay.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne un procédé servant à préparer des émulsions sans tensioactifs à partir de l'armoise vulgaire annuelle (Artemisia annua) et de champignons du genre Ganoderma, qui se distinguent par des caractéristiques améliorées, en particulier, des caractéristiques de piégeage de radicaux libres, et d'effet anti-âge, et peuvent, de ce fait, être amplement utilisés en cosmétique.
EP09781131A 2008-07-26 2009-07-27 Émulsion sans tensioactifs exerçant un effet anti-âge, sa préparation et son utilisation Withdrawn EP2320869A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

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DE102008035443A DE102008035443A1 (de) 2008-07-26 2008-07-26 Tensidfreie Emulsionen mit Anti-Aging-Effekt, ihre Herstellung und ihre Verwendung
PCT/EP2009/059670 WO2010012686A1 (fr) 2008-07-26 2009-07-27 Émulsion sans tensioactifs exerçant un effet anti-âge, sa préparation et son utilisation

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DE102016203378A1 (de) * 2016-03-02 2017-09-07 Beiersdorf Ag Glycin-haltiges Sonnenschutzmittel
CN105924453A (zh) * 2016-06-14 2016-09-07 南京市建邺区景春堂电子商务中心 一种青蒿素的提取方法及青蒿素提取物
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CN106924117B (zh) * 2017-04-12 2019-08-06 惠州学院 用提取青蒿素后剩余的黄花蒿残渣制备的洗护用品组合物

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