Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
  • A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
  • A61K8/498—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
  • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
  • A61K8/9794—Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a novel composition based on kaempferol that can be used as an agent for depigmenting the epidermis, and more particularly an extract of Crocus sativus containing kaempferol, which can be used as a depigmenting agent or in a depigmenting composition.
• Depigmentation of the skin may be desired under various circumstances, either for overall lightening of the skin, or to eliminate or reduce spots caused by local pigmentation disorders.
• the skin has several integrated layers, ranging from the superficial layer, the epidermis (epithelial tissue), to the deeper layers, the dermis and the hypodermis (connective tissue), and each has specific properties allowing the whole to react and adapt to the conditions of its environment.
• the pigmentation of the skin results from the presence of melanin in the epidermis and the dermis.
• Melanin is produced by melanocytes located mainly in the basal layer, in the presence of tyrosinase (or monophenol monooxygenase), a cupro-protein enzyme that catalyzes the conversion of tyrosine to dihydroxyphenylalanine (dopa) which is then converted to dopaquinone , then in dopachrome, to lead to melanin following a complex mechanism.
• tyrosinase or monophenol monooxygenase
• dopa dihydroxyphenylalanine
• This biosynthesis, or melanogenesis is a complex process that is today relatively well known.
• B1842WO The hyperpigmentation of the skin can be combated by means of a compound capable of degrading melanin, or of inhibiting the biosynthesis of melanin, or by using a tyrosinase inhibitor which blocks or inhibits the mechanism described above.
• hydroquinone and some of its derivatives may act by inhibiting tyrosinase and preventing the binding of its natural substrate, tyrosine.
• patent EP-A-060,092 describes the use of a hydroquinone and fatty acid ester
• US Pat. No. 4,692,261 describes a depigmenting composition containing hydroquinone, an anionic detergent and a stabilizer.
• Hydroquinone-based combinations are also known, such as, for example, the combination of hydroquinone and salicylic acid described in patent FR-A-2,754,253.
• hydroquinone has the disadvantage of a high toxicity causing side effects such as irritation of the skin.
• depigmenting substances have been proposed, and for example melatonin derivatives as in FR 2,751,535, salicylic acid derivatives as in FR 2,732,594, extracts of plants of the genus Mitrapyrus such as in patent FR 2 751 874, or kojic acid esters having a lightening action on the skin, as described in FR 2,460,131.
• the acid. Kojica is unstable in solution and its use in dermatology is delicate.
• the salts and esters of kojic acid often have an allergenic effect.
• Glycyrrhiza extracts containing substances such as glabridin have also been used to inhibit the production of melanin by dermal cells by blocking the tyrosinase used in its synthesis, and depigmenting compositions containing glabridin have been proposed as in FR 2,822,067.
• Kaempferol is a flavonoid derived from flavonol, represented by the general formula below.
• compositions for the treatment of hyperpigmentation of the skin comprising a depigmenting agent chosen from 3,3'-thiodipropionic acid, thiazolidine-2-carboxylic acid, kaempferol- 7-glucoside, perilla oil and clofibrate and its analogues and / or derivatives.
• kaempferol gives the compositions which contain it a yellow color which prevents its use in cosmetic or dermatological compositions intended for the depigmentation of the skin.
• kaempferol is very slightly soluble in water, which further limits its use in cosmetic compositions.
• Crocus including the species C. sativus, contain kaempferol. Crocuses, many of which are grown as fall flowering ornamental flowers, are found in parts of Asia and southern Europe from Iran to Spain. The species Crocus sativus is known for the production of saffron obtained from the dried stigmas of the flower.
• the subject of the present invention is therefore a novel composition
• a novel composition comprising an extract of Crocus sativus containing kaempferol, more particularly a kaempferol derivative, which can be used as a depigmenting agent in cosmetology and in dermatology.
• the subject of the invention is also a novel use of an extract of Crocus sativus containing kaempferol for the preparation of a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition intended to inhibit the pigmentation of the skin.
• the subject of the invention is also the use of an extract of Crocus sativus as a depigmenting agent
• the invention also relates to a new topical composition specially adapted for such use, comprising an extract of Crocus sativus in a concentration adapted to the desired effect.
• the subject of the invention is also a method for depigmenting the skin, comprising applying to the exposed areas a composition comprising an extract of Crocus sativus containing kaempferol.
• the Crocus sativus extract is preferably obtained from white flower petals.
• the literature in the cosmetic field evokes, depending on the case, lightening properties or depigmenting properties for the skin.
• the depigmenting properties comprise, in addition to the properties making it possible to fight against hyperpigmentation, also these lightening properties.
• composition of the invention contains an extract of Crocus sativus, and it is preferably an extract of Crocus sativus petals, and more particularly of a hydroalcoholic or, preferably, a glycolic acid extract.
• the extract according to the invention may represent between 0.1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 2 and 10%.
• the content of flavonoids is expressed as a percentage of the dry matter.
• the hydroalcoholic extract used in the invention has the advantage of having a relatively high content of flavonoids, mainly flavonols and flavanols, and a good aptitude for storage over time, under normal conditions of temperature and humidity, preferably protected from light. It contains in particular kaempferol glycoside. It can be prepared from fresh, finely divided flowers, by. maceration with stirring for several days in ethyl alcohol, at a rate of about 100 g of flowers to 1 1 of alcohol.
• the extract thus prepared can be used as it is or decolorized with activated charcoal.
• composition substances having a depigmenting effect such as arbutin, glabridin, skullcap, vitamin C (ascorbic acid) or kojic acid, as well as their derivatives such as salts and esters, or an anti-pigmenting agent such as a saxifrage extract which reduces melanin.
• Ultraviolet protection agents may also advantageously be incorporated in the compositions, and for example hydrophilic or lipophilic UV-A and UV-B sunscreens, chosen from benzophenone or a benzophenone derivative such as 2-hydroxybenzophenone.
• hydrophilic or lipophilic UV-A and UV-B sunscreens chosen from benzophenone or a benzophenone derivative such as 2-hydroxybenzophenone.
• compositions in accordance with the present invention may be presented in the forms conventionally used for a topical application, that is to say in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution, of a gel, lotion, emulsion (in particular cream or milk), stick for the lips, mask, ointment, serum, transdermal patches, nanocapsules or liposomes containing compatible and pharmaceutically acceptable excipients and common carriers. They can also be in the form of wipes soaked with a solution containing the extract of petals of Crocus sativus.
• Topical administration are prepared by the known techniques, and for example, in the case of a cream, by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion, or conversely to prepare a water-in-oil emulsion.
• creams it is preferred to use lamellar structure emulsions containing little or no ethoxylated products.
• the topical compositions according to the invention may comprise excipients suitable for external topical administration, in particular dermatologically and cosmetologically acceptable excipients.
• excipients suitable for formulation are well known to those skilled in the art and include in particular penetrating agents such as ethoxydiphenol, phytantriol, octyl dodecanol and escin; thickeners such as natural gums and synthetic polymers; emollients and surfactants such as cetearyl octanoate, isopropyl myristate, cetearyl isononanoate, dimethicone, cyclomethicone, polyglyceryl 3-diisostearate, hydrogenated polyisobutene, cetyl alcohol, cetyl palmitate cetyl phosphate, triglycerides of capric and caprylic acid; emulsifiers such as esters sorbitan, stearic or palmitic acid derivatives, sucro-esters or
• compositions according to the present invention are given below. Unless otherwise indicated, percentages and parts are by weight.
• the depigmentation effect was evaluated in vitro on reconstituted epidermis (Skinethic®) in coculture with human melanocytes, after control of the cytotoxicity, as indicated below.
• Keratinocytes of human origin were cultured in a defined medium MCDB 153 modified) and supplemented.
• the cells are cultured for 10 days at the air / liquid interface, the culture medium being changed every two days.
• the epidermis thus formed on polycarbonate filters (0.63 cm 2 ) were co-cultured with human melanocytes. The study was carried out between the n th and 17 th days of culture.
• Lot no. 1 consists of control epidermals receiving no product (negative controls).
• Lot 2 consists of the epidermis treated with the Crocus sativus extract according to the invention.
• Lot no. 3 consists of the positive control epidermises receiving kojic acid (2%) as a comparison depigmenting product.
• the evaluation of cell viability was made by histological examination.
• the epidermis fixed in a 10% formaldehyde solution was embedded in paraffin blocks and vertical sections 4 ⁇ m thick were stained with hematoxylin / eosin (HES) and then photographed under an optical microscope.
• HES hematoxylin / eosin
• Crocus sativus extract according to the invention has no cytotoxic activity with respect to the endothelial cells of the epidermis, at the concentrations tested (0.072%).
• the evaluation of the activity of the Crocus sativus extract of the invention on cutaneous pigmentation was made by assaying melanin and tyrosinase.
• composition of the invention based on extract of Crocus sativus causes a significant decrease in melanin. This decrease is lower here than the control with koic acid but it is significant from the tested dose of 0.07%.
• the culture medium was removed, then the epidermis was rinsed with PBS and brought into contact with Triton X-100 (Sigma, France) at 1% and then incubated for 10 minutes.
• the enzymatic reaction was initiated by the addition of L-dopamine (Sigma, France) to 10 mM in PBS devoid of Ca 2+ and Mg 2+ .
• the tyrosinase activity was evaluated by measuring the absorption at 475 nm using a spectrophotometer.
• the depigmenting activity thus demonstrated of the Crocus sativus extract of the invention shows that this extract can be advantageously used in lightening and depigmenting cosmetic compositions, in the place of depigmenting agents such as kojic acid whose known disadvantages limit the use.
• Crocus sativus extract of the invention can therefore be used in depigmenting cosmetic and dermatological compositions.
• the two liquors thus obtained are joined and the amount is adjusted to 1 with water and ethyl alcohol at 70% vol. until you obtain the desired alcoholic strength.
• a reddish-brown liquid extract is obtained which can be used as it is or decolorized by the addition of activated charcoal.
• Example 3 A reddish-brown liquid extract is obtained which can be used as it is or decolorized by the addition of activated charcoal.
• a depigmenting lotion comprising Crocus sativus extract obtained as described in Example 2 is prepared by mixing the components below in the order indicated. Lotus distilled water 10.0
• This aqueous lotion can be applied directly to the skin, preferably twice a day, to provide a depigmenting effect is observed in most cases from the 2 nd to 4 th week of treatment.
• a lightening essence is prepared using the three phases A, B and C, the composition of which is given below. Phases A and C are prepared at room temperature while phase B is prepared by heating until a clear solution is obtained.
• Phase C once homogenized, is added to phase B, the mixture is stirred until a homogeneous mixture, then phase A is added with stirring.
• a depigmenting cream is prepared by mixing the four phases whose compositions are given below.
• phase A is mixed at approximately 70 ° C., then phase B is added with stirring at room temperature, and the mixture, after homogenization, is added with phase C at 60 ° C. then phase D after having thoroughly mixed.
• a lightening cream is prepared by mixing the 6 phases, the compositions of which are described below.
• phase A The components of phase A are mixed at approximately 80 ° C., and phase B, the components of which are mixed at 75 ° C., the phase C at 70 ° C., the phase D at 60 ° C., are added thereto. then phase E at 40 ° C., and finally the perfumes are added at about 35 ° C., to obtain a lightening cream.

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• 2008
  • 2008-03-20 FR FR0801545A patent/FR2928835B1/fr active Active
• 2009
  • 2009-03-19 EP EP09729132A patent/EP2282717A1/de not_active Withdrawn
  • 2009-03-19 WO PCT/FR2009/000292 patent/WO2009122046A1/fr active Application Filing

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