EP2123816A1 - Verfahren zur Herstellung eines kettengewirkten, maschenfesten elastischen Stoffes und damit gewonnenes Gewirke - Google Patents

Verfahren zur Herstellung eines kettengewirkten, maschenfesten elastischen Stoffes und damit gewonnenes Gewirke Download PDF

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Publication number
EP2123816A1
EP2123816A1 EP08425372A EP08425372A EP2123816A1 EP 2123816 A1 EP2123816 A1 EP 2123816A1 EP 08425372 A EP08425372 A EP 08425372A EP 08425372 A EP08425372 A EP 08425372A EP 2123816 A1 EP2123816 A1 EP 2123816A1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
yarn
elastic yarn
elastic
dtex
fabric
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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Application number
EP08425372A
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English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Laura Colnaghi Calissoni
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Eurojersey SpA
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Eurojersey SpA
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Eurojersey SpA filed Critical Eurojersey SpA
Priority to EP08425372A priority Critical patent/EP2123816A1/de
Publication of EP2123816A1 publication Critical patent/EP2123816A1/de
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • D04B21/18—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating elastic threads

Definitions

  • the subject of the present invention is a method for manufacturing a warp-knit, non-run, elastic fabric of the type specified in the preamble of Claim 1.
  • the invention also relates to the fabric obtained with said method.
  • the invention relates to a method wherein at least one non-elastic yarn and at least one elastic or elastomeric yarn are loaded on a warp-knit machine equipped with at least one needle bar and at least one front needle guide bar, and one rear needle guide bar through which the yarns are fed to the needles in order to form a warp-knit, non-run, elastic fabric with a particularly high degree of elasticity and fineness capable of creating a soft and silky leather effect.
  • the elastic yarn is fed to the needles through the front bar and is knit with a tricot structure while the non-elastic yarn is fed to the needles by the rear bar and is knit using a zigzag structure by skipping one or more needles.
  • the front and rear bars are driven back and forth simultaneously in the same direction, therefore the elastic and the non-elastic yarns run in zigzag in the same direction, both forming healds on all the machine's needles.
  • the elastic yarn contracts and brings the sections of non-elastic yarn into a position protruding from the plane of the fabric, and this position is particularly suited to obtain a elastic fabric with leather effect and an extraordinarily uniform structure through subsequent teaseling and cropping or emerizing.
  • the fabric thus obtained can also be subjected to thermosetting and/or a dyeing process.
  • both the elastic and non-elastic yarns run in the same direction in the sections between one heald stitch and the next, allows a particularly uniform effect as well as a great efficiency during the dyeing of the finished fabric, because the similar orientation of the yarns hides any irregularity in the dyeing of the elastic yarn, which - as it is known - is notoriously difficult to dye.
  • elastic yarns with a fibre gauge preferably in the range of 22 - 56 dtex are particularly preferred, especially 44 dtex, together with nylon yarns in general, and in particular, Nylon 6, with fibre gauge preferably in the range of 22 - 100 dtex, - 44 dtex in particular - with 36 filaments.
  • the fabric obtained in this way offers the same elasticity in both the directions of length and width and permits the manufacturing of knit garments with greater comfort and tighter fit, allowing the maximum breathability while ensuring the greatest freedom of movement. Furthermore, this fabric provides brighter colours, enhances printing effect, and has a chlorine resistance that is 25% higher than that of traditional warp-knit non-run elastic fabrics.
  • the fabric can be advantageously applied to the production of knit underwear, swimsuits, and sportswear.
  • the Applicant uses a known nylon yarn with low orientation referred to as LOY (Low Orientation Yarn) which is obtained by low speed spinning that gives it greater compactness and a more crystalline appearance.
  • LOY Low Orientation Yarn
  • LOY yarn is not subjected to stretching together with the spinning of the yarn but is subsequently stretched separately.
  • LOY yarn doubles in length during stretching, and is therefore wound on spools with tapering ends (cops) and used in this way in warp-knit machines.
  • LOY yarn has various advantages over FOY yarn, such as better elastic shape memory, lower ultimate elongation, higher boiling water shrinkage, higher compactness, and greater modulus of elasticity that gives the fabric better containing capacity.
  • LOY yarn is more expensive than the FOY yarn , due to its slower spinning speed that provides lower yarn production per hour on one hand, and its necessarily separate stretching phase that requires more costs than when stretching is performed at the same time as spinning, immediately downstream from the same as instead occurs for FOY and POY yarns, on the other.
  • the technical aim of the present invention is to devise a method for manufacturing a warp-knit non-run elastic fabric capable of substantially overcoming the aforesaid drawbacks.
  • one important aim of the invention is to provide a method of the above-mentioned type, that permits significant economic savings in the realization of such warp-knit fabric while substantially maintaining the same characteristics of elasticity, modulus, fineness, soft hand, breathability, chlorine resistance capacity, and the capacity to enhance the colours in warp-knit, non-run, elastic fabrics produced by the Applicant so far using more costly synthetic LOY yarns .
  • Another important aim of the invention is the realization of a fabric of the type specified above, for manufacturing garments that guarantee the highest levels of comfort with perfect adherence and without compression.
  • Yet another important aim of the invention is the realization of a method of the type specified above, that permits the fabric to be dyed with excellent results in terms of colour uniformity and brightness.
  • Yet another aim of the invention is the realization of a method that has lower environmental impact during the fabric dyeing, requiring lower quantity of dye for the same final result.
  • the LOY yarn ( Fig. 1 ) presents an ultimate elongation curve as a function of the load expressed in kN (kiloNewton) that has a relatively steep initial ascending line, which means that with the increase of the load applied to the yarn, the yarn stretches relatively little.
  • Fig. 2 shows a curve wherein elongation is initially nearly directly proportional to the increase in load expressed in kN and in any case, a lower amount of load is sufficient to obtain the same percentage of elongation as LOY yarn.
  • the FOY yarn curve also flattens out, but with the increase in load a significantly greater elongation occurs before final breakage than in LOY yarn.
  • the field of use of LOY yarn is characterized by significantly lower elongation percentages than those that occur with FOY yarns.
  • a method according to the invention for manufacturing a warp-knit non-run elastic fabric envisions, in a way known from the European patent EP-B1-0 462 607 filed by the same Applicant, that at least one non-elastic yarn be knit with at least one elastic yarn on a warp-knit machine of a type already known (such as, for example, a machine produced by the Karl Mayer Company of Obertshausen, Germany, as described in further detail below), equipped with at least one needle bar and at least one front needle guide bar and one rear needle guide bar.
  • a type already known such as, for example, a machine produced by the Karl Mayer Company of Obertshausen, Germany, as described in further detail below
  • the elastic yarn is fed to the needles through the front needle guide bar, while the non-elastic yarn is fed to the needles through the rear needle guide bar. Since they are loaded in the same direction, both the elastic yarn and the non-elastic yarn extend in the same direction in the passage from one needle to the next.
  • the non-elastic yarn is a polyamide yarn, and in particular, a nylon yarn like Nylon 6 or Nylon 66 with numerous filaments. According to the invention, this yarn is a FOY yarn.
  • the elastic yarn can be a yarn of the type commercially known as Lycra®.
  • FOY yarn does not permit the creation of a fabric with characteristics of shape memory, modulus of elasticity, soft hand, fineness etc. that can be compared to those provided by the fabric realized by the Applicant using LOY yarn.
  • the Applicant has surprisingly observed that at equivalent yarn fibre gauge - in particular 33 dtex or 44 dtex - and number of filaments, while at least reducing the ultimate elongation and increasing the boiling water shrinkage (BWS) of traditional (standard) FOY yarn, and preferably increasing also the modulus of elasticity while leaving the other textile parameters of this traditional FOY yarn unaltered or substantially at the same level of magnitude, and by knitting the FOY yarn thus modified with the elastic yarn as described above, it is possible to obtain a warp-knit fabric with practically identical characteristics to those previously described obtained by the Applicant with LOY yarn, such as high shape memory, high modulus of elasticity, fineness, soft hand, and high breathability capable of giving garments made with such fabric, the maximum comfort, perfect adherence without compression, and the greatest freedom of movement.
  • BWS boiling water shrinkage
  • the Applicant has observed that it is possible to achieve such results by using a FOY yarn with an ultimate elongation in the range of 30 - 35% and Boiling Water Shrinkage (BWS) in the range of 13 -14%, calculated according to the usual method of determining shrinkage as the difference in the yarn's initial length and the length measured after keeping the yarn in a bath of boiling water for a given period of time.
  • BWS Boiling Water Shrinkage
  • a FOY yarn wherein also the modulus of elasticity is modified, precisely in the range of 21 - 25 cN/dtex.
  • Table 1 below provides the most significant textile parameters of standard FOY yarn compared with the same parameters of a FOY yarn according to the invention; such parameters regard a non-elastic Nylon 6 yarn.
  • a Nylon 6 yarn with titanium dioxide (TiO 2 ) content in the range of 1.1 and 1.7%, and a yarn relative viscosity in the range of 2 and 3 was considered TABLE 1 FOY (standard) FOY (according to the invention) Fibre gauge 44 dtex/28 44 dtex/28 Ultimate elongation 38% 30 - 35% Fibre density 5 cN/dtex 3 - 5 cN/dtex Modulus of elasticity 20 cN/dtex 21 - 25 cN/dtex Boiling Water Shrinkage (BWS) 11.60% 13 - 14% Uster (yarn uniformity) 1.10% 1.05 - 1.10%
  • the ultimate elongation is significantly lower than that of standard FOY yarn, boiling water shrinkage is significantly higher, and modulus of elasticity is also higher.
  • the other parameters are substantially unaltered or of the same magnitude.
  • Table 2 below provides the most significant textile parameters of the FOY yarn, which as shown by the tests conducted by the Applicant demonstrated better technical and textile characteristics that were practically equal to the optimal values described above and obtained by the Applicant with LOY yarn.
  • the optimal values, and especially in regard to ultimate elongation, boiling water shrinkage and modulus of elasticity differ substantially from the corresponding values of LOY yarn (Table 2) and those of standard FOY yarn (Table 1). If, on one hand, the number of nylon filaments was reduced from 28 to 26, on the other, the Applicant was not merely interested in modifying FOY yarn in order to provide it with the textile parameters of LOY yarn. In other words, the Applicant found that only a particular and precisely focused variation of certain parameters was sufficient to achieve the desired results.
  • the nylon FOY yarn shown in Table 2 was worked on an HKS 2-3 type 130 inch warp-knit machine manufactured by Karl Mayer.
  • This machine with two needle guide bars, one needle bar, and a fineness of 32 was loaded with 4020 yarns per bar with an elastic yarn having a fibre gauge of 44 dtex on the front bar and with circular super-matte non-elastic Nylon 6 FOY yarn with a fibre gauge of 44 dtex and 26 filaments on the rear bar.
  • the machine was prepared to work both yarns with tricot structure, both the elastic and non-elastic yarns running in the same direction, more in particular according to the following conditions: - front bar: notation 0-1/2-1 length fed mm/Rk 500 healds per centimetre 28 - rear bar: Notation 0-1/2-1 length fed mm/Rk 930
  • the lengths fed are expressed in Rack millimetres.
  • the length fed of the elastic yarn on the front needle guide bar is specified as being in relaxed state.
  • the healds per centimetre are defined in the sinker through usual machine adjustments.
  • both the elastic and non-elastic yarns are woven in tricot structure, and both are knit to form open healds.
  • the fabric obtained according to the invention can be subjected to a hot dyeing and/or a thermosetting phase.
  • the invention achieves important advantages.
  • Said fabric with slender thickness, soft and natural hand, high shape memory, high modulus of elasticity, resistant to deterioration by chlorine, and suited to dyeing for the greater enhancement of colours and printing effects can be used to particular advantage in knit underwear, swimsuits, and sportswear since it ensures greater comfort and tighter fit without compression, while ensuring the maximum breathability and the greatest freedom of movement.
  • the reduced TiO 2 content of FOY yarn also offers the advantage of decreased dye consumption during dyeing and consequently less pollution.
  • the invention is susceptible to modifications and variants falling within the inventive concept.
  • the elastic yarn and the non-elastic yarn can have a different fibre gauge than the one considered above, such as a fibre gauge of 33 dtex, for example.
  • the elastic yarns and the non-elastic yarns do not necessarily have to form tricot structure healds or open healds.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
EP08425372A 2008-05-23 2008-05-23 Verfahren zur Herstellung eines kettengewirkten, maschenfesten elastischen Stoffes und damit gewonnenes Gewirke Withdrawn EP2123816A1 (de)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP08425372A EP2123816A1 (de) 2008-05-23 2008-05-23 Verfahren zur Herstellung eines kettengewirkten, maschenfesten elastischen Stoffes und damit gewonnenes Gewirke

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP08425372A EP2123816A1 (de) 2008-05-23 2008-05-23 Verfahren zur Herstellung eines kettengewirkten, maschenfesten elastischen Stoffes und damit gewonnenes Gewirke

Publications (1)

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EP2123816A1 true EP2123816A1 (de) 2009-11-25

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EP08425372A Withdrawn EP2123816A1 (de) 2008-05-23 2008-05-23 Verfahren zur Herstellung eines kettengewirkten, maschenfesten elastischen Stoffes und damit gewonnenes Gewirke

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN114908469A (zh) * 2022-06-20 2022-08-16 江南大学 一种形状记忆经编成形医用手臂保护套及其生产工艺

Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0452607A2 (de) * 1990-04-19 1991-10-23 Eurojersey S.P.A. Verfahren zur Herstellung eines einen Oberflächeneffekt aufweisenden elastischen Gestrickes
EP0808384B1 (de) * 1995-02-07 1999-08-25 E.I. Du Pont De Nemours And Company Verfahren zum schnellspinnen von vollorientierten nylongarnen und daraus hergestellte garne

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0452607A2 (de) * 1990-04-19 1991-10-23 Eurojersey S.P.A. Verfahren zur Herstellung eines einen Oberflächeneffekt aufweisenden elastischen Gestrickes
EP0808384B1 (de) * 1995-02-07 1999-08-25 E.I. Du Pont De Nemours And Company Verfahren zum schnellspinnen von vollorientierten nylongarnen und daraus hergestellte garne

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN114908469A (zh) * 2022-06-20 2022-08-16 江南大学 一种形状记忆经编成形医用手臂保护套及其生产工艺

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