EP1967622B1 - Procédé pour la production d'un textile avec des fibres d'animal extra-fines qui ne peuvent pas être tissées à l'échelle industrielle, à l'aide de filaments synthétiques continus solubles dans l'eau - Google Patents

Procédé pour la production d'un textile avec des fibres d'animal extra-fines qui ne peuvent pas être tissées à l'échelle industrielle, à l'aide de filaments synthétiques continus solubles dans l'eau Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1967622B1
EP1967622B1 EP08102250A EP08102250A EP1967622B1 EP 1967622 B1 EP1967622 B1 EP 1967622B1 EP 08102250 A EP08102250 A EP 08102250A EP 08102250 A EP08102250 A EP 08102250A EP 1967622 B1 EP1967622 B1 EP 1967622B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
yarns
extra
fibres
animal fibres
textile
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EP08102250A
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German (de)
English (en)
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EP1967622A3 (fr
EP1967622A2 (fr
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Jacopo Geraldini
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Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/26Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre with characteristics dependent on the amount or direction of twist
    • D02G3/28Doubled, plied, or cabled threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/40Yarns in which fibres are united by adhesives; Impregnated yarns or threads
    • D02G3/404Yarns or threads coated with polymeric solutions
    • D02G3/406Yarns or threads coated with polymeric solutions where the polymeric solution is removable at a later stage, e.g. by washing
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/233Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads protein-based, e.g. wool or silk
    • D03D15/235Cashmere or silk
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/60Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the warp or weft elements other than yarns or threads
    • D03D15/68Scaffolding threads, i.e. threads removed after weaving
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2321/00Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D10B2321/06Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polymers of unsaturated alcohols, e.g. polyvinyl alcohol, or of their acetals or ketals

Definitions

  • the present invention concerns a process for the production of a textile in extra-fine animal fibres which are not industrially weavable.
  • the doubling is carried out with an opposite twist to that of the individual yarn, i.e. with an S twist, so as to avoid twists which the yarns of extra-fine cashmere fibres cannot tolerate, and thus obtain a final textile that is extremely soft and pleasant to the touch.
  • the doubling is carried out with opposite twist to that of the individual yarn, i.e. with an S twist.
  • discontinuous water-soluble yarns are used, made up of fibres spun with cotton-type cut.
  • JP-A- 55 098936 discloses a method for manufacturing a worsted crepe fabric.
  • US-A-2 592 153 discloses a process for manufacturing a textile fabric in which a wool yarn is twisted together with a synthetic filament having a fineness much lower than that of the wool fabric.
  • the composite yarns are woven or knitted and the synthetic filament is then dissolved in an alkaline bath.
  • GB-A-1 068 662 discloses a method for making a bulky yarn starting by combining a bulky stretchable yarn of a substantially solid structure with a substantially unstretchable yarn and with a binding yarn. At least one of the unstretchable yarn and the binding yarn are made of a synthetic material which may be dissolved in an aqueous acid solution.
  • EP-A-1 245 706 discloses a process for manufacturing a worsted wool fabric in which a continuous filament of lower fineness is wrapped on a single wool yarn of higher fineness.
  • the object of the present invention has now been to create a process which enables the weaving of yarns in extra-fine animal fibres, particularly in cashmere fibres, using thinner water-soluble threads and reducing the "piling" effect to a minimum.
  • the starting yarns can be of extra-fine animal fibres only, particularly of cashmere, or can be mixed yarns (in so-called "intimate mixture") of extra-fine animal fibres, for example of cashmere, and silk fibres. In both cases the yarns have a fineness of between 50 and 200 dtex.
  • the twist for doubling the continuous filaments is a Z twist of about 200 turns per linear metre.
  • Yam 1 indicates a starting yarn with extra-fine animal fibres which are not industrially weavable.
  • Yam 1 can be made up of extra-fine animal fibres only, particularly of cashmere, or can be a mixed yarn 1 of extra-fine animal fibres and silk fibres, for example of composition 80%WS (cashmere) - 20%SE (silk) with an extra-fine fineness of 66 dtex.
  • Yam 1 is made using traditional spinning with a Z twist of 1100 turns per linear metre.
  • Yam 1 is doubled with a continuous synthetic filament 2, made in polyvinyl material (PVA), i.e. soluble in slightly acidic aqueous solution at high temperature.
  • Continuous synthetic material 2 is of the same fineness as yarn 1, as illustrated in figures 1 and 2 .
  • Doubling is performed with a twist in the same direction as that of yarns 1, i.e. with a Z twist.
  • the doubling twist is of low level, of about 200 turns per linear metre, so as not to create strength problems for yarns 1, and so as to obtain good softness for the final product, accompanied by an almost total absence of "piling".
  • the raw textile thus created which can be in any weave such as plain, twill or jacquard, clearly has the same composition as doubled combinations 3.
  • This raw textile then undergoes a stage of purging by a dyeing-type process, in which it is immersed in an aqueous solution of about 50 litres per kilogram of polyvinyl with a slightly acid pH (about 4.5) at a temperature of between 30°C and 100°C (depending on the nature of the PVA yarn).
  • the synthetic filaments 2 are thus eliminated by dissolution or melting, leaving a final textile ( fig. 3 ) composed exclusively of yarns 1 and therefore having a final composition with a fineness of 66 dtex, which is impossible to achieve industrially with traditional techniques.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)

Claims (5)

  1. Procédé pour la production d'un textile en fils de fibres animales ayant une finesse comprise entre 50 et 200 dtex, comprenant la succession suivante d'étapes consistant à :
    a) filer des fils (1) contenant des fibres animales, les fils filés (1) ayant une finesse comprise entre 50 et 200 dtex et une torsion Z de 1100 tours par mètre linéaire ;
    b) doubler chaque fil filé (1) avec un filament synthétique en PVA (alcool polyvinylique) continu (2) soluble dans une solution liquide avec un pH d'environ 4,5 à une température comprise entre 30°C et 100°C, ledit filament synthétique en PVA (2) étant sensiblement de la même finesse que le fil filé (1), ledit doublage étant réalisé avec une torsion Z d'environ 200 tours par mètre linéaire ;
    c) tisser les fils filés (1) et les filaments (2) doublés ;
    d) dissoudre lesdits filaments synthétiques en PVA (2) au moyen d'une solution liquide avec un pH d'environ 4,5 à une température comprise entre 30°C et 100°C.
  2. Procédé selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que lesdits fils filés (1) sont réalisés uniquement avec des fibres animales.
  3. Procédé selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que lesdits fils filés (1) sont des fils mélangés de fibres animales et des fibres de soie.
  4. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3, caractérisé en ce que lesdites fibres animales sont des fibres de cachemire.
  5. Procédé selon la revendication 3, caractérisé en ce que lesdits fils mélangés (1) ont une composition de 80 % de cachemire et de 20 % de soie.
EP08102250A 2007-03-09 2008-03-04 Procédé pour la production d'un textile avec des fibres d'animal extra-fines qui ne peuvent pas être tissées à l'échelle industrielle, à l'aide de filaments synthétiques continus solubles dans l'eau Active EP1967622B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
IT000467A ITMI20070467A1 (it) 2007-03-09 2007-03-09 Processo per la produzione di un tessuti in

Publications (3)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1967622A2 EP1967622A2 (fr) 2008-09-10
EP1967622A3 EP1967622A3 (fr) 2008-10-08
EP1967622B1 true EP1967622B1 (fr) 2010-08-25

Family

ID=39276061

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP08102250A Active EP1967622B1 (fr) 2007-03-09 2008-03-04 Procédé pour la production d'un textile avec des fibres d'animal extra-fines qui ne peuvent pas être tissées à l'échelle industrielle, à l'aide de filaments synthétiques continus solubles dans l'eau

Country Status (4)

Country Link
EP (1) EP1967622B1 (fr)
AT (1) ATE478988T1 (fr)
DE (1) DE602008002269D1 (fr)
IT (1) ITMI20070467A1 (fr)

Families Citing this family (13)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
ITMI20080203A1 (it) * 2008-02-08 2008-05-09 G T I S P A Gruppo Tessile Ind Procedimento per realizzare un filo multicomponente e filo multicomponente cosi' realizzato
IT1391110B1 (it) * 2008-09-22 2011-11-18 Canepa S P A Procedimento per la realizzazione di un filato sottile di fibre naturali animali o vegetali in puro o in mischia tra di loro atto alla realizzazione di un tessuto
IT1401154B1 (it) * 2010-07-28 2013-07-12 Flii Citterio Spa Procedimento di produzione di un tessuto in fibre tessili naturali animali, particolarmente fibre tessili naturali di tipo pregiato
EP2554733B1 (fr) * 2011-08-05 2014-11-19 Canepa S.p.A. Machine pour fournir une adéquation pour le tissage d'un fil mince et/ou chaîne fabriqués par fibres animales et/ou végétales et/ou artificielles et/ou synthétiques à un état pur ou un mélange
ITMI20111901A1 (it) * 2011-10-19 2013-04-20 Alfonso Saibene Procedimento per il conferimento di idoneita' alla tessitura ad un filato e/o ordito sottili
ITMI20131647A1 (it) * 2013-10-04 2015-04-05 Ermes Ardizzone Procedimento per la realizzazione di tessuti ortogonali ed in maglia molto leggeri, antipiega ed elastici naturali con fibre proteiche.
CN103757777B (zh) * 2014-01-22 2016-03-30 宁波康赛妮毛绒制品有限公司 一种山羊绒与拉伸羊毛混纺纱线及其制备方法
CN104032428A (zh) * 2014-05-21 2014-09-10 苏州市吴中区甪直明达漂染厂 双重混纺编织耐高温纱
ITUB20155104A1 (it) 2015-10-28 2017-04-28 Filatura Di Trivero S P A Procedimento per la fabbricazione di un filato a base di una fibra naturale e un tessuto realizzato con tale filato
ITUA20162888A1 (it) * 2016-04-26 2017-10-26 Jacopo Geraldini Procedimento per la produzione di materiale tessile costituito da filati derivati da fibre animali e/o vegetali di pregio, extrafini, con titolo tale da essere ritenuti non tessibili con telai meccanici e materiale tessile ottenuto con il procedimento
CN110219078B (zh) * 2019-04-22 2021-09-21 兔皇羊绒有限公司 一种羊绒大衣的制作方法
CN111893612A (zh) * 2020-07-02 2020-11-06 苏州维杰纺织有限公司 一种高弹抗静电包芯纱
IT202000017314A1 (it) * 2020-07-16 2022-01-16 Filatura Papi Fabio S P A Filato ed articolo tessile ottenuto con filato realizzato con processo di lavorazione cardato in combinazione con filamento di alcool polivinilico (pva)

Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1953280A2 (fr) * 2007-01-31 2008-08-06 Jacopo Geraldini Processus de production d'un tissu à base de fibres animales extrafines qui ne peuvent pas être tissées industriellement, et tissu ainsi obtenu

Family Cites Families (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2592153A (en) 1941-04-11 1952-04-08 Alginate Ind Ltd Textile fabric
GB1068662A (en) 1962-10-20 1967-05-10 Hanjiro Fujii Novel yarn
JPS5598936A (en) 1979-01-18 1980-07-28 Unitika Ltd Production of wool yarn fabric
IT1312400B1 (it) 1999-06-15 2002-04-17 Jacopo Geraldini Processo per la fabbricazione di un articolo tessile in puro cashmere
IL142252A0 (en) 2001-03-26 2002-03-10 Polgat Textiles Co 1960 Ltd Novel process for the manufacture of super fine woven wool fabric with single yarn in the warp having improved weavability
ITMI20022195A1 (it) * 2002-10-16 2004-04-17 Jacopo Geraldini Processo per la fabbricazione di un articolo tessile in puro cashmere.

Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1953280A2 (fr) * 2007-01-31 2008-08-06 Jacopo Geraldini Processus de production d'un tissu à base de fibres animales extrafines qui ne peuvent pas être tissées industriellement, et tissu ainsi obtenu

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP1967622A3 (fr) 2008-10-08
ITMI20070467A1 (it) 2008-09-10
ATE478988T1 (de) 2010-09-15
DE602008002269D1 (de) 2010-10-07
EP1967622A2 (fr) 2008-09-10

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