EP1897665A1 - Procédé et dispositif de découpe selon un patron - Google Patents

Procédé et dispositif de découpe selon un patron Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1897665A1
EP1897665A1 EP06017892A EP06017892A EP1897665A1 EP 1897665 A1 EP1897665 A1 EP 1897665A1 EP 06017892 A EP06017892 A EP 06017892A EP 06017892 A EP06017892 A EP 06017892A EP 1897665 A1 EP1897665 A1 EP 1897665A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
cutting
needle
layer
needles
stack
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP06017892A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Frank Schäfer
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Escada AG
Original Assignee
Escada AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Escada AG filed Critical Escada AG
Priority to EP06017892A priority Critical patent/EP1897665A1/fr
Priority to CNA2007101079909A priority patent/CN101135111A/zh
Publication of EP1897665A1 publication Critical patent/EP1897665A1/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H15/00—Cloth-holders
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B26—HAND CUTTING TOOLS; CUTTING; SEVERING
    • B26D—CUTTING; DETAILS COMMON TO MACHINES FOR PERFORATING, PUNCHING, CUTTING-OUT, STAMPING-OUT OR SEVERING
    • B26D7/00—Details of apparatus for cutting, cutting-out, stamping-out, punching, perforating, or severing by means other than cutting
    • B26D7/01—Means for holding or positioning work
    • B26D7/015—Means for holding or positioning work for sheet material or piles of sheets
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B26—HAND CUTTING TOOLS; CUTTING; SEVERING
    • B26D—CUTTING; DETAILS COMMON TO MACHINES FOR PERFORATING, PUNCHING, CUTTING-OUT, STAMPING-OUT OR SEVERING
    • B26D7/00—Details of apparatus for cutting, cutting-out, stamping-out, punching, perforating, or severing by means other than cutting
    • B26D7/01—Means for holding or positioning work
    • B26D7/018—Holding the work by suction
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B26—HAND CUTTING TOOLS; CUTTING; SEVERING
    • B26D—CUTTING; DETAILS COMMON TO MACHINES FOR PERFORATING, PUNCHING, CUTTING-OUT, STAMPING-OUT OR SEVERING
    • B26D7/00—Details of apparatus for cutting, cutting-out, stamping-out, punching, perforating, or severing by means other than cutting
    • B26D7/20—Cutting beds

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a method according to the preamble of patent claim 1 and a device according to the preamble of patent claim 8.
  • plastic needles are used in the layer stack for accurately aligning the layers of patterned fabric relative to each other.
  • Each plastic needle has a foot part, a shaft and an upper tip.
  • the needles are placed with the foot parts at pattern selected locations on a placed on a laying table layer image before the layers are sequentially threaded accurately.
  • the needled sheet stack is then transferred to a cutting pad in the form of a bristle pad, then fixed thereon by, for example, vacuum, and cut in a cutting window of a cutter.
  • warping of at least some layers can not be avoided, resulting in reduced quality in the blanks.
  • the needles remain in the ply stack and are cut in collision with the cutting tool.
  • each needled, and optionally stapled, staple blank is cut to a cutting table on a cutting table with a band knife, with a cutter guiding the stack along the cutting line on the stationary band knife.
  • the invention has for its object to provide a method of the type mentioned above and a device for performing the method by which blanks for high-quality and extremely high-quality clothing in the industrial custom-made inexpensive, efficient, can be produced quickly and without damage in the fabric.
  • a layer stack of possibly large layers is needled only once and already very precisely directly on the cutting surface, eliminates the coarse blanks and rough cutting allowances, so that time and cost can be saved. Further, since the ply stack is cut in the state fixed on the cutting pad, and the cutting tool travels along cutting lines, the blank can be rapidly and yet extremely precisely made. By the layer stack moves neither during nor after the needles on the cutting support, but is fixed without any transfer or a change in position, shifts between the layers and later distortions in the fabric are excluded, so that an extremely high quality of the blanks results overall.
  • the needles are used to accurately align the layers relative to each other, and to secure the ply stack on the cutting pad, but can be removed during trimming so that no damage occurs in the fabric or cutting tool.
  • the needles have no foot portions, they remain securely positioned and secured in the needle retaining layer and also in the bristle facing, while the individual layers are patterned relative to one another and successively applied from above onto the needles projecting from the cutting pad.
  • the needles secure the layer stack against changes in position on the cutting support until the final fixation is made. Then the footpart free needles can be conveniently, e.g. upwards, pull out again.
  • the needles during cutting can cause no damage in the fabric or on the cutting tool.
  • the punctures in the fabric are small and disappear by themselves. However, at least some needfully cut needles can be kept in the cut when cut. As long as the needles remain inserted, they fulfill a dual function.
  • a layer image or the lowest layer with an applied layer image is positioned on the cutting support formed by the bristle covering and the needles are precisely inserted at pattern-related or cutting-related points from above into the cutting support into the needle retention layer and fixed in their positions. Additional layers are individually guided from above over the needles, before applied to the finished needled layer stack a cover and this is pierced by the needles. For fixing, the layer stack is pressed by negative pressure from the cover on the cutting support, so that the layers can not shift relative to each other, if then in the fixed state needles are optionally pulled out and the cutting operation is performed, in which the cutting tool moves along the cutting lines and produces one or more blank stacks without rough cut additions.
  • the layer image for positioning the needles in the cutting support can be fixed, for example, on the lowest layer, or directly on the bristle coating. In the case of a simple clear fabric pattern, the needles could even be staked without layer image directly through the applied bottom layer in the cutting pad.
  • the cutting tool operates along the markings, wherein, advantageously, the cutting tool is moved via a computerized control drive, in the system of which the sectional image is also programmed.
  • a cutting bridge of the cutting tool is first moved to be cut over the layer stack which is fixed on the cutting support, possibly the needles, so that the cutting tool can carry out other work until then, and good access is achieved when creating the layer stack .
  • the cutting support may be part of a cutting device or a separate cutting device is moved to a support structure of the cutting support and optionally docked to perform the cutting operation in the fixed stack of layers. It is important that the stack of layers no relative movements on the cutting support are possible, and that also the cutting support with the stack of layers to the cut no more movements.
  • the cutting support with the fixed stack of layers for cutting is transferred into a cutting window of a cutting bridge of the cutting tool.
  • the stack of sheets can be needle-punched at rest and with access from all sides, while the cutting tool optionally cuts other blanks in the cutting window.
  • a conveyor belt drive or other translatory drive may be used to drive the cutting pad to transfer with the fixed stack of layers in the cutting window, however, at no time moves the stack of sheets relative to the cutting pad to exclude shifts or distortions.
  • the fabric layers are removed in bale width from the bale and cut to length on the cutting support, and are cut from this possibly large layer stack several either only related or related and not related blank stack. It is thus rationalized the production, because a large number of blank stacks can be formed from the full bale width in the length of the cutting window. Since rough cutting allowances are eliminated, the blanks can be grouped together very closely and the stacking area is optimally utilized.
  • the cutting tool is expediently adjusted to at least one reference point of a blank or a blank group and then, starting from the reference point, guided computer-controlled along the cutting lines.
  • the cutting tool could also be performed by hand along the cutting lines.
  • the base body of the bristle covering is perforated between the bristle roots in order to be able to use the negative pressure to efficiently fix the layer stack.
  • the perforation is used in addition to positioning the needles and provides an almost unlimited number of places to place needles.
  • the needle-holding layer in which the needles are held and stabilized when creating the ply stack is conveniently located below the body of the bristle pad so that the flexibility of the bristles between which the cutting tool penetrates and the needles for the cutting operation is not compromised are kept stable.
  • the needle-retaining layer could even be combined with or integrated into the base body of the bristle covering. However, this requires a special training of a bristle covering for this purpose, as it is currently not developed.
  • the needle retention layer is thicker than the base body of the bristle cover.
  • the thickness and material of the needle-retaining layer are chosen so that even for high ply stacks a proper support and positioning of the needles is guaranteed, and these can not be pulled out or accidentally pulled out while working.
  • the needle holding layer in the device expediently consists of a pierceable with the needles, flexible material, such as Kunststofftoff, rubber or an elastomer. Styrofoam or a foam is particularly suitable because the needles are relatively easy to pierce, are positioned cleanly and held very firmly, and these materials hardly suffer under the needles even after many uses.
  • the needle-retaining layer could be made of a viscous material, compressed natural or synthetic fibers, or filaments, optionally with an integrated binder or adhesive.
  • the material used should allow the insertion of a needle with reasonable force, but the needle frictionally position and hold so that they can not fall under pulled or optionally when cutting forces under any circumstances, or so, but so that for pulling out a certain amount of force required is that does not occur when stacking.
  • To set and remove the needles for example, a pair of pliers or the like. Used.
  • the needle-retaining layer is permeable to air, so that the negative pressure for fixing the ply stack uniformly comes into effect.
  • the needle-retaining layer may be arranged or configured to allow the transfer of negative pressure into the sheet stack, e.g. with columns with oblique gap edges.
  • the needle-retaining layer is fixed to the base body of the bristle covering.
  • anchoring elements of the bristle lining are used for fixing, which penetrate the needle holding layer.
  • a commercial continuous or tessellated from individual plates mosaic coating which is equipped with anchoring elements for fixing on carriers of a support structure. Since the anchoring elements of the commercial bristle coating are usually not so long that they penetrate the needle-holding layer, extensions are provided for the anchoring elements, with which they are fixed to the support structure. The extensions fulfill the additional purpose of also fixing the needle-retaining layer relative to the bristle covering.
  • the needles are suitably made of steel, because they can be made of this material very thin and yet resilient, and leave no unwanted marks in the fabric. They are straight and without feet and have tips at both ends. Especially when cutting in the pile stack left needles are chosen so long, or inserted so deep that they do not collide with the cutting head.
  • a vacuum source is provided below the bristle lining, in the activation of which the layer stack is fixed between the carriers of the support structure through the bristle covering and through the needle holding layer by means of the negative pressure on the bristle covering, as usual, using at least a cover, which presses the stack of layers on the bristle cover.
  • the bristle covering with the fixed layer stack can be displaced into a cutting window section, or the cutting bridge is moved over the fixed layer stack or brought to the bristle covering bearing the fixed layer stack.
  • the last-mentioned embodiment is preferred because it also avoids any movements of the layer stack bearing bristle lining.
  • An apparatus V shown in Fig. 1 for producing blanks, in particular fabric blanks, from patterned fabrics, e.g. checkered fabrics, e.g. for ladies' wear in industrial clothing manufacture comprises an elongated frame 1, at the top thereof a cutting window in a sector 2 of a cutter C and e.g. on both sides of the cutting window laying sections 3, 4 are provided.
  • One of the sections 4 or 3 could be a clearing section.
  • brackets for Stoffballen- or rollers and film rolls 5 may be arranged on the frame 1 .
  • the cutter C has a cutting head 6 which can be moved on a cutting bridge 7 in the transverse direction and contains a cutting tool W, for example a shock knife.
  • the cutting bridge 7 moves in the longitudinal direction with carriage 8 on guide rails 9, which are attached to the longitudinal sides of the frame 1.
  • the cutter C has, preferably, an unspecified, computerized and programmable drive and motion control.
  • the cutting support A could in another embodiment between the sections 2, 3, 4, if appropriate, be linearly movable in the longitudinal direction (in the manner of a conveyor belt), or be implemented in fields in other ways.
  • a negative pressure source Q is provided (or a negative pressure port), with which the layer stack S through the cutting support A through it can be acted upon and fixed under vacuum.
  • the negative pressure source Q acts on at least the section 2 in the cutting window, possibly even the entire cutting support A, where appropriate, the respective application surface can be adjusted.
  • the cutting support A is formed by a bristle coating B, which has bristles 10 which are parallel to one another and approximately vertically upstanding on a base body 13.
  • the roots 12 of the bristles 10, which are close together and, preferably, are made of flexible plastic, are e.g. integrally connected to the base body 13 so that their free ends 11 define the actual cutting support A.
  • the main body 13 is perforated and contains, for example, between the bristles 10 or the bristle roots 12 approximately parallel to the bristles through holes 14, which also serve to transmit the negative pressure (indicated by arrows 17).
  • the layer image 15 may be placed in order to set the needles N precise.
  • a sectional image SB can then be placed which is provided on the upper side by a cover film 16, e.g. made of plastic, is covered.
  • the bristle covering B is provided with a needle-holding layer P which, in the embodiment shown, is arranged below the basic body 13 and fixed relative to the bristle coating B.
  • the bristle lining B is fixed to the supports 20 of a supporting structure by anchoring elements 21 which are located downwards from the base body 13.
  • the needle N is inserted from above, for example by means of a pair of pliers through one of the holes 14 to the needle holding layer P so that it is held and positioned by the bristles B, the hole 14 and especially the needle holding layer P.
  • the needle N has at least at the upper end of a sharp tip 18, suitably made of steel, and has a slender straight shaft 19.
  • the needle N has a length which is at least the height of the ply stack S plus the length of the bristles B to the body 13, plus the thickness of the base body 13 and approximately plus the thickness of the needle-retaining layer P corresponds.
  • the lower end or lower tip of the needle N rests on the carrier 20. Between the carriers 20 are gaps through which the negative pressure is effective.
  • the needle-holding layer P is made of a flexible malleable material M such as plastic, rubber or an elastomer. Is particularly useful as a material Styrofoam or Used foam, ie a material that positions and holds each needle N well so that it does not fall out or accidentally pulled out while working.
  • the individual layers L in the layer stack S are sequentially threaded from above and aligned by the needles N precisely in relation to each other. Within the surface of the ply stack S a plurality of needles N is provided, useful on pattern-related and / or for the cutting process tactically important points.
  • the needle-retaining layer P could also be integrated directly into the bristle covering B, for example contained in the base body 13, or fixed to it from the outset, or even introduced above the base body 13 between the bristles 10.
  • negative pressure 17 is applied, which compresses the layer stack S via the cover film 16 and fixes it on the cutting support A in an immovable manner. By pressing the layers L are fixed together. The negative pressure is maintained when then the or some needles N are pulled out and the cutting process is prepared. Optionally, the or some needles N are left in the layer stack S for better relative positioning of the layers.
  • Fig. 3 shows in perspective how the bristle covering B from individual segments B 'may be composed mosaic-like.
  • the needle-retaining layer P could also be continuous.
  • Each needle N is, as explained, pushed vigorously from above in the direction of an arrow 22 into the needle-retaining layer P and positioned between the bristles 10, being pushed through one of the perforation holes 14. If there is no perforation, because the negative pressure is transmitted in another way up, the needles N could pierce the base body 13.
  • Fig. 4 illustrates how for a commercial bristle covering (a segment B ') conversion with regard to the use of the needles N is feasible.
  • the segments B ' have on the underside the anchoring elements 21, which can be clipped into the carrier 20 of a supporting structure. Since these anchoring elements 21 are not prepared for the arrangement of the needle-holding layer P, are on or to the anchoring elements 21st mating extensions 23 are provided which connect to the respective carrier 20 and pass through passages 24 in the needle-holding layer P to position them relative to the bristle facing.
  • the material M of the needle-retaining layer P can be permeable to air and / or possibly provided in places with air passages. Alternatively, in the needle-retaining layer P, gaps could be provided approximately corresponding to the gaps between the supports 20, for example with oblique gap edges, in order to be able to position needles there as well.
  • the cutter C is transferred over the sheet stack S without changing the relative position of the sheet stack S on the cutting support A or moving the cutting support A.
  • the negative pressure is either effective only in the respective cutting window 2, or over the entire length of the frame 1 or in selectable areas.
  • the actual cutting process is carried out by the C cutter computer-controlled, expediently with the aid of the programmed cutting pattern.
  • a further cover sheet is applied to already cut areas to prevent the negative pressure decreases or collapses.
  • the section on which the layer stack S has been completed and fixed could be transferred under the cutting bridge 7.
  • a laying table could be provided with a vacuum source and a stationary bristle lining B, on which the layer stack S is needled and fixed.
  • the cutter C can be housed in its own, possibly movable unit, which is moved to the laying table and docked to this to perform the cutting process.
  • the cutter C can perform other work during the production of the layer stack S. and the laying work is not hindered.
  • the layer stack S could also be needled directly on the section 2 in the cutting window of the cutter C.
  • the sectional image SB is not necessarily required if the cutter C is computer-controlled anyway.
  • the sectional image SB is necessary when the cutting head 6 or the tool W is guided by hand along the cutting lines.
  • a plate-like supporting structure could be used with the bristle lining B and the vacuum source, which is transferred in any way into the cutting window of a cutter when the layer stack has been completed.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Forests & Forestry (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
EP06017892A 2006-08-28 2006-08-28 Procédé et dispositif de découpe selon un patron Withdrawn EP1897665A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP06017892A EP1897665A1 (fr) 2006-08-28 2006-08-28 Procédé et dispositif de découpe selon un patron
CNA2007101079909A CN101135111A (zh) 2006-08-28 2007-05-22 形成剪裁料的方法和装置

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP06017892A EP1897665A1 (fr) 2006-08-28 2006-08-28 Procédé et dispositif de découpe selon un patron

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1897665A1 true EP1897665A1 (fr) 2008-03-12

Family

ID=37672280

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP06017892A Withdrawn EP1897665A1 (fr) 2006-08-28 2006-08-28 Procédé et dispositif de découpe selon un patron

Country Status (2)

Country Link
EP (1) EP1897665A1 (fr)
CN (1) CN101135111A (fr)

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2008128731A1 (fr) * 2007-04-20 2008-10-30 Assyst Bullmer Spezialmaschinen Gmbh & Co. Kg Dispositif d'aiguilletage de bandes de matière lâches
CN105525452A (zh) * 2016-01-29 2016-04-27 广东溢达纺织有限公司 固定装置
IT201900021135A1 (it) * 2019-11-14 2021-05-14 Fk Group S P A Kit per la realizzazione di un tappeto di spazzole per una macchina per il taglio automatico di tessuti

Families Citing this family (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN101775738B (zh) * 2009-01-09 2013-06-19 上海和鹰机电科技股份有限公司 可配合自动裁剪机工作的电动控制针床
CN105332256A (zh) * 2014-08-06 2016-02-17 台湾吉川化工股份有限公司 裁切液晶配向布的方法
CN106948157B (zh) * 2017-03-28 2019-01-08 拓卡奔马机电科技有限公司 一种用于调整裁刀下刀深度的自动调整装置及方法
CN107268259B (zh) * 2017-08-08 2019-05-31 广东溢达纺织有限公司 裁片对条格自动裁割方法
CN108611842B (zh) * 2018-06-26 2020-06-05 海澜之家股份有限公司 一种规则花型面料服装裁片复合裁剪方法

Citations (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
BE859478A (fr) * 1977-10-07 1978-02-01 Desmed & Meynart Ets Table pour la preparation a la coupe de panneaux de tissus
EP0260172A2 (fr) * 1986-09-08 1988-03-16 Institut Textile De France Procédé et dispositif de préparation de matelas à la coupe
GB2207075A (en) * 1987-07-10 1989-01-25 Lauro Beltrami Automatic machine to steam and cut knitted cloths
US4832323A (en) * 1987-09-15 1989-05-23 Cutting/Sewing Room Equipment Company, Inc. Fabric pin table
DE4029869A1 (de) * 1989-09-19 1991-04-04 Kawakami Seisakusho Verfahren und vorrichtung zum schneiden von schnittmusterlagen
US5020405A (en) * 1990-05-17 1991-06-04 Gerber Garment Technology, Inc. Apparatus with moveable pins for spreading and cutting layups of sheet material
US5063800A (en) * 1989-09-18 1991-11-12 Eastman Machine Company Pin table
EP1331070A1 (fr) * 2002-01-29 2003-07-30 F.K. Arna S.R.L. Machine pour la coupe automatique d'étoffe à carreaux ou à rayures ou étoffe avec panneaux imprimés

Patent Citations (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
BE859478A (fr) * 1977-10-07 1978-02-01 Desmed & Meynart Ets Table pour la preparation a la coupe de panneaux de tissus
EP0260172A2 (fr) * 1986-09-08 1988-03-16 Institut Textile De France Procédé et dispositif de préparation de matelas à la coupe
GB2207075A (en) * 1987-07-10 1989-01-25 Lauro Beltrami Automatic machine to steam and cut knitted cloths
US4832323A (en) * 1987-09-15 1989-05-23 Cutting/Sewing Room Equipment Company, Inc. Fabric pin table
US5063800A (en) * 1989-09-18 1991-11-12 Eastman Machine Company Pin table
DE4029869A1 (de) * 1989-09-19 1991-04-04 Kawakami Seisakusho Verfahren und vorrichtung zum schneiden von schnittmusterlagen
US5020405A (en) * 1990-05-17 1991-06-04 Gerber Garment Technology, Inc. Apparatus with moveable pins for spreading and cutting layups of sheet material
EP1331070A1 (fr) * 2002-01-29 2003-07-30 F.K. Arna S.R.L. Machine pour la coupe automatique d'étoffe à carreaux ou à rayures ou étoffe avec panneaux imprimés

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2008128731A1 (fr) * 2007-04-20 2008-10-30 Assyst Bullmer Spezialmaschinen Gmbh & Co. Kg Dispositif d'aiguilletage de bandes de matière lâches
CN105525452A (zh) * 2016-01-29 2016-04-27 广东溢达纺织有限公司 固定装置
IT201900021135A1 (it) * 2019-11-14 2021-05-14 Fk Group S P A Kit per la realizzazione di un tappeto di spazzole per una macchina per il taglio automatico di tessuti
WO2021094868A1 (fr) * 2019-11-14 2021-05-20 Fk Group S.P.A. Kit pour obtenir un tapis de brosses sur une table d'une machine pour la coupe automatique de tissus

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
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