Classifications

• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
  • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
  • D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
  • D06M15/21—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • D06M15/263—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of unsaturated carboxylic acids; Salts or esters thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A41—WEARING APPAREL
  • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
  • A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
  • A41D27/02—Linings
  • A41D27/06—Stiffening-pieces
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
  • D06M10/00—Physical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. ultrasonic, corona discharge, irradiation, electric currents, or magnetic fields; Physical treatment combined with treatment with chemical compounds or elements
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
  • D06M10/00—Physical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. ultrasonic, corona discharge, irradiation, electric currents, or magnetic fields; Physical treatment combined with treatment with chemical compounds or elements
  • D06M10/04—Physical treatment combined with treatment with chemical compounds or elements
  • D06M10/08—Organic compounds
  • D06M10/10—Macromolecular compounds
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
  • D06M14/00—Graft polymerisation of monomers containing carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds on to fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
  • D06M14/00—Graft polymerisation of monomers containing carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds on to fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials
  • D06M14/18—Graft polymerisation of monomers containing carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds on to fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials using wave energy or particle radiation
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
  • D06M17/00—Producing multi-layer textile fabrics
  • D06M17/04—Producing multi-layer textile fabrics by applying synthetic resins as adhesives

Definitions

• the present invention relates to the field of interlinings fusible which are supports, textile or non-woven, on a on which are applied points of hot melt polymer, likely to adhere later on the piece of clothing to strengthen under the effect of the application of some hot pressure. It relates more particularly to a method of manufacturing such interlining using electronic bombardment in view to modify locally the melting temperature and / or the viscosity of the hot melt polymer; it also relates to a polymer hot melt specially designed for the implementation of said process.
• this piercing has the effect of increasing locally the rigidity of the interlining and therefore the piece of clothing, which may be contrary to the desired effect. It can also cause collages on dubbing fabrics such as lining and part of draperies in reverse, which causes a degradation of the quality of the garment.
• thermofusible interlining whose points of thermofusible polymer have two superimposed layers, namely a first layer in contact with the face of the interlining support and a second layer arranged precisely above the first. Good sure the constituents of the two layers are determined so that when application with hot pressure of the piece of clothing, only the thermofusible polymer of the second layer reacts to the action of temperature. The diffusion of the hot-melt polymer can in this only to the piece of clothing, being prevented from interlayer support, the first layer acting as kind of barrier.
• the means, of a chemical nature, capable of modifying the chemical structure of the hot melt polymer comprise at least a reactive material and at least one reactive means capable of starting, ensure, promote the reaction between the reactive material and the polymer melt.
• the contacting between the reactive material and the polymer hot melt is either by mixing these two elements that are deposited in the form of dots, in an intimate mixture, on the interlayer support, either by application of the reactive material on the interlining support before depositing the polymer dots (then free of reactive material).
• the reactive means are cited the heat inputs, ultraviolet radiation and bombardment electronic.
• the applicant also proposed in the document EP.0.855.146A1 a method according to which one deposits on the face location a interlining support of hot melt polymer dots of average thickness E and containing a radical activator and submits one of the faces of the support to an electronic bombardment by adjusting the penetration depth of the electrons in the points of the hot-melt polymer to obtain a modification of physicochemical properties of the hot-melt polymer, chosen among the melting temperature and the viscosity, on a thickness e by compared to the average thickness E.
• the radical activator has the function of creating radicals free to initiate the polymerization reaction on itself thermofusible polymer. It is not strictly speaking a reactive material in the sense of the document FR.2.606.603.
• thermofusible polymer and the radical activator the mixing of the thermofusible polymer and the radical activator, this mixing with successive operations of fusion, extrusion and grinding so as to obtain a powder which is used as it is for coating or that is diluted for the subsequent preparation of the aqueous dispersion in the form of a paste for depositing the points of polymer on the interlining support.
• the presence of the radical agent induces a certain number of difficulties.
• the technique of depositing points of polymer uses an aqueous dispersion in the form of a paste, it is important to obtain a good stability of the dough in time that the components used in the formulation of the dough are soluble in water.
• products suitable as agents radicals are for the most part insoluble in water at least in the proportions in which they intervene in the preparation of the aqueous dispersion, which can cause a relative instability dough in time.
• the products suitable as radical agents are usually in liquid form, with boiling temperatures that can possibly be incompatible with the temperatures used in the conditions procedures implemented when depositing points on the support interlining. So in this case there may be partial evaporation of the radical agent, which leads to a loss or even a disappearance of responsiveness to electronic bombardment.
• the products as radical agents are usually monomers of low molecular weight, their behavior in mixing with the Hot melt polymer is comparable to that of a plasticizer. This behavior can cause a change in the melt viscosity of the hot-melt polymer, can pose quality problems, coating and can also change the strength properties intrinsic mechanics of the polymer and thereby influence the collage performance.
• the aim of the applicant is to propose a method of manufacturing a fusible interlining an electronic bombardment to modify the structure chemistry of the hot-melt polymer that overcomes the disadvantages supra.
• the polymer points thermofusible are based on at least one functional polymer having functional groups capable of reacting with free radicals generated under the action of electronic bombing and / or themselves generators of free radicals under the action of electronic bombing; in addition, the depth of electron penetration into the polymer points to obtain, thanks to said functional groups, a self-crosslinking of said functional polymer on a limited thickness e with respect to the average thickness E of the polymer points.
• thermofusible polymer itself that includes both the adhesion function and the bombardment reactivity function electronic.
• thermofusible polymer for fusible interlinings, especially designed for the implementation of the aforementioned method.
• This polymer thermofusible is characterized in that it comprises groups functional groups able to react with free radicals under the action of a electronic bombardment and / or themselves generators of free radicals under the action of electronic bombardment.
• these functional groupings have functions with ethylenic unsaturation, for example acrylate, methacrylate, allyl, acrylamide, vinyl ether, styrenic, maleic or fumaric.
• said groupings functional entities include labile entities, that is entities whose binding energies are lower than the usual connections carbon - carbon or carbon - hydrogen.
• labile entities there may be mentioned a carbon-chlorine bond C-CI or a bond thiol S-H.
• Functional Hot Melt Polymers According to the Invention are obtained according to the two possible ways.
• first way we add directly, in the synthesis reaction medium of the polymer, monomers carrying the functional group or groups able to react with free radicals under the action of a electronic bombardment and / or themselves generators of free radicals under the action of electronic bombardment.
• second way we start from the already formed hot melt polymer and it is later transformed by grafting onto its polymer structure functional groups desired by grafting techniques known.
• the location of the functional group along the polymer chain significantly influences the reactivity of the polymer functional under the action of electronic bombardment as well as the structure of the crosslinked network obtained.
• the functional group can be located at the end of the chain, included along the chain or located on ramifications or grafts along the polymer chain main.
• the functional thermofusible polymer according to the invention must necessarily have the properties of adhesion or bonding necessary for the intended use which is fusible interlining. Of the more it must be functionalized either during its synthesis or by subsequent transformation, as indicated previously. It is therefore especially polyethylene (PE), copolyamide (coPA), polyester (Pes), polyurethane (PU) or copolyamide block ether (PBAX).
• PE polyethylene
• coPA copolyamide
• Pes polyester
• PU polyurethane
• PBAX copolyamide block ether
• the functional groups are located at the end of the chain; regarding of a skeleton of the polyethylene type, the functional groups are located on branches along the main chain; in the case of a skeleton of the polyester type, the groups functional are included along the main chain; in the case of a skeleton of the polyurethane type, the functional groups are grafted along the main chain.
• thermofusible polymer of the invention is selected so as to meet the constraints of use in fusible interlinings, constraints which are variables according to the techniques used.
• this polymer must be delivered in the form of a grinding-resistant powder for particle sizes from 10 to 200 ⁇ m or to be available in granules if the technique used is of the hot-melt type.
• the functional groups that comprise the hot melt polymer must be stable at the coating temperature, knowing that the technique used, this temperature can range from 150 to 225 ° C. This thermal stability is essential to prevent functional groups give rise to an uncontrolled start of self-crosslinking. This thermal stability can be improved by incorporating into the functional hot melt polymer an antioxidant.
• the melting temperature of the hot melt polymer functional of the invention should generally be between 70 and 150 ° C, knowing that the melting temperature of the same self-crosslinked polymer under the action of electronic bombing him is higher.
• the hot melt functional polymer of the invention is according to the applications, machine wash resistant, resistant to dry cleaning with chlorinated solvent and resistant to steam.
• the functional polymer has a polyethylene backbone and comprises functional groups of methacrylate type.
• This functional polymer is based on an initial polymer obtained from ethylene monomers and a small percentage, of the order of 3% by weight, of acrylic acid.
• This initial polymer of the polyethylene type contains acid functions attached to the carbon chain.
• This initial polymer is subjected to an esterification reaction with an epoxide type compound of formula: proposed by the firm Aldricch under the name GMA, in stachiometric proportion.
• the power and the dose used make it possible to limit the action of the electrons on a limited thickness e of the average thickness of the deposited points.
• the self-crosslinking of the functional polymer occurs only on this thickness e of the point, at the base of said point, that is to say that which is in contact with the interlining support.
• the self-crosslinked polymer has a higher melting temperature than the non-self-crosslinking functional polymer, so that when applying the interlining to the article to reinforce the self-crosslinked base of the polymer point less than than the rest of the item, which avoids piercing.
• a second and a third example of polymers functional polyethylene backbone can be cited.
• the functional groups are of the styrenic type.
• the initial polymer is obtained from ethylene monomer and of the order of 10% by weight of hydroxyethyl methacrylate.
• This may be the EHEMA polymer proposed by the company Neste Chemical under the reference NRT 354. It reacts with an isopropenyl compound of formula proposed by the firm American Cyanamid under the name TMI, to give the functional polymer of general form:
• the functional groups are of the acrylate type.
• the initial polymer is obtained from ethylene monomer and of the order of 16% by weight of vinyl alcohol. It may be the EVOH polymer proposed by Bayer under the reference Levasint S-31. It reacts with an acrylic acid compound to give the functional polymer of the general formula:
• the operating conditions of the different reactions implemented are determined in order to obtain a polymer functional that contains an adequate proportion of groupings functional, to obtain the desired result, namely to obtain, under the action of electrons, a localized increase in melting temperature due to the self-crosslinking of said polymer functional and which moreover meets the conditions imposed by application to the fusible interlining of the support on which the Functional polymer dots are deposited.

Landscapes

• Textile Engineering (AREA)
• Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
• Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Toxicology (AREA)
• Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
• Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
• Adhesives Or Adhesive Processes (AREA)
• Addition Polymer Or Copolymer, Post-Treatments, Or Chemical Modifications (AREA)
• Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
• Laminated Bodies (AREA)
• Details Of Garments (AREA)
• Manufacturing Of Multi-Layer Textile Fabrics (AREA)
• Adhesive Tapes (AREA)
• Macromonomer-Based Addition Polymer (AREA)

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