EP1180947A1 - Verfahren zur herstellung einer masskleidung und stoffhalbprodukt zu dessen durchführung - Google Patents

Verfahren zur herstellung einer masskleidung und stoffhalbprodukt zu dessen durchführung

Info

Publication number
EP1180947A1
EP1180947A1 EP00931267A EP00931267A EP1180947A1 EP 1180947 A1 EP1180947 A1 EP 1180947A1 EP 00931267 A EP00931267 A EP 00931267A EP 00931267 A EP00931267 A EP 00931267A EP 1180947 A1 EP1180947 A1 EP 1180947A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
web
adhesive
sections
semifinished product
spots
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP00931267A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP1180947B1 (de
Inventor
Andrea Rotondi
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Rotondi Group Srl
Original Assignee
ROTONDI GROUP Srl
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by ROTONDI GROUP Srl filed Critical ROTONDI GROUP Srl
Publication of EP1180947A1 publication Critical patent/EP1180947A1/de
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP1180947B1 publication Critical patent/EP1180947B1/de
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/02—Linings
    • A41D27/06—Stiffening-pieces

Definitions

  • This invention relates to a method of making tailor's cloths, of the type wherein at least one semifinished product of a cloth finishing fabric is bonded to a support web in order to have it maintain a particular shape or fashioning pattern.
  • the invention also relates to a semifinished product of a cloth including at least one support web for a finishing fabric of the cloth.
  • the invention relates, particularly but not exclusively, to the manufacture of coats and overcoats, and the description which follows will deal with this field of application for convenience of explanation only.
  • Background Art The procedures involved in making on a commercial scale high quality cloths, such as coats, overcoats and the like, of a so-called tailor's shape or type, for men, women and children, are well recognised in this technical field.
  • the cloths industry provides essentially three article types for cloths, as follows:
  • the semifinished products comprise a support web and a finishing fabric bonded together, as by means of heated rollers or plates, into a unitary two-ply semifinished product.
  • the first article type includes coats or overcoats which are assembled from sewn — or rather basted - a fabric piece, known as "web” or “tailor's web” onto pre-cut and patterned multi-ply cloth pieces.
  • web or “tailor's web”
  • the front (chest) and shoulder portions, and the edges or flaps of coats and overcoats are sewn onto a respective support web which will provide them with an adequate degree of stiffness, texture and elasticity to better face subsequent processing steps on their way toward the finished coat.
  • the front pieces and the edges of coats are basted to their respective webs on special basting or loose-stitch sewing machines.
  • flaps are basted on automatic machines or manual sewing machines, in order to provide them with improved roundness and texture for best ultimate effect.
  • fabric straps are used at the basting stage, which are sewn at different points to the coat semifinished products for fashioning the coat into shape (before the pressing and final sewing operations) .
  • the underlying technical problem of this invention is to provide a method of manufacturing tailor's cloths, i.e. cloths of the same quality and conformability as traditional ones, in a cost-favourable manner which is less dependent on the availability of highly qualified personnel. Disclosure of Invention
  • the idea behind this invention is one of using support webs provided with adhesive spots or sections for bonding the corresponding fabric pieces thereto at the stage of shaping the semifinished product.
  • the technical problem is solved by a method as previously indicated and defined in the characterising portions of Claims 1 foil.
  • the technical problem is further solved by a cloth semifinished product as defined in Claims 9 foil..
  • Figure 1 is a perspective view showing schematically a semifinished product of a cloth, according to the state of the art.
  • Figure 2 is a perspective view showing schematically a semifinished product of a cloth, according to the present invention. Modes for Carrying Out the Invention
  • a cloth semifinished product commonly referred to as being of tailor's or traditional type is shown generally at 1 in schematic form.
  • the semifinished product 1 is intended for making, at an industrial level, high quality cloths from finishing fabric pieces 2 which are bonded to respective support webs 3 for fashioning into a specific shape or design.
  • the finishing fabric piece 2 may be the front (chest) piece or comprise the edges or flaps, of coats, overcoats and the like.
  • the support webs 3 are of multi-ply type, and are pre-cut and shaped to receive corresponding pieces 2 of finishing fabric thereon.
  • the webs 3 are also known in the art by the terms “piastroni” [slabs] or “cammelli” [camels] .
  • the fabric pieces 2 are basted to the respective support webs 3 at the fashioning stage of the semifinished product.
  • the front pieces, the edges or the flaps of coats and overcoats are sewn on respective support webs essentially to make them stiffer and more elastic, preliminarily to subsequent processing steps that will lead to the finished coat.
  • the method of this invention provides instead for the use of at least one web 4 having spots 5 or sections 6 coated with an adhesive 7, the finishing fabric 2 being adhesively bonded to the web 4 at the shaping or fashioning stage of the semifinished product.
  • step of fashioning the finishing fabric 2 onto the web 4 is carried out concurrently with the step of adhesively bonding the finishing fabric 2 to the web.
  • the adhesive-coated spots 5 or sections 6 should correspond to the regions of the web 4 which are usually subjected to the conventional basting or loose-stitching operations.
  • the web 4 is a multi-ply structure, and the adhesive is applied on the surface of the web intended to lie against the finishing fabric 2.
  • the web 4 may be pre-treated for the application of the adhesive by such different means as spraying, silk-screen printing, and in the forms of an adhesive bead, adhesive tape, or double-sided adhesive strips.
  • the adhesive 7 may be a low-temperature setting resin which will disappear upon pressing. This is the choice which is made in all those cases where the web 4 is not required to stay permanently attached to the fabric 2, but expected to stay there strictly for the time needed to fashion the semifinished product.
  • the bond between the finishing fabric 2 and the associated support web 3 would then become set on pressing, which causes the adhesive on the web to stick onto the back surface of the finishing fabric 2 and cure, thereby bonding the fabric and the web together only at the spots 5 or sections 6 where the adhesive has been provided.
  • the method of this invention does solve the technical problem, and offers a number of advantages, foremost among which is that the typical qualities of traditionally made or tailor's cloths can now be obtained at lower production costs.
  • the method of this invention allows the shortage of trained labour to be obviated, or makes the availability of expensive sewing machines for basting and loose-stitching unnecessary.
  • the cloths produced with the inventive method retain high standards of quality and conformability, while allowing of faster production rates.
  • the semifinished product of this invention can be easily made by specialised shops or the manufacturers responsible for the final assembly of the cloths, and this at no added production costs.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)
  • Socks And Pantyhose (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
  • Undergarments, Swaddling Clothes, Handkerchiefs Or Underwear Materials (AREA)
  • Decoration Of Textiles (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
EP00931267A 1999-05-31 2000-05-29 Verfahren zur herstellung einer masskleidung und stoffhalbprodukt zu dessen durchführung Expired - Lifetime EP1180947B1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
IT1999MI001219A IT1312592B1 (it) 1999-05-31 1999-05-31 Metodo per realizzare capi di abbigliamento di tipo sartoriale esemilavorato di capo di abbigliamento per l'attuazione di detto
ITMI991219 1999-05-31
PCT/EP2000/004868 WO2000072710A1 (en) 1999-05-31 2000-05-29 A method of making taylor's clothes and a cloth semifinished product implementing the method

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1180947A1 true EP1180947A1 (de) 2002-02-27
EP1180947B1 EP1180947B1 (de) 2003-09-03

Family

ID=11383094

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP00931267A Expired - Lifetime EP1180947B1 (de) 1999-05-31 2000-05-29 Verfahren zur herstellung einer masskleidung und stoffhalbprodukt zu dessen durchführung

Country Status (7)

Country Link
EP (1) EP1180947B1 (de)
CN (1) CN1153529C (de)
AT (1) ATE248533T1 (de)
AU (1) AU4925400A (de)
DE (1) DE60004994T2 (de)
IT (1) IT1312592B1 (de)
WO (1) WO2000072710A1 (de)

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN103126139A (zh) * 2012-12-31 2013-06-05 天津应大股份有限公司 针织前门的制作方法

Family Cites Families (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB1323768A (en) * 1970-11-09 1973-07-18 Burton Ltd Montague Attaching canvas linings to garment parts

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
See references of WO0072710A1 *

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP1180947B1 (de) 2003-09-03
DE60004994D1 (de) 2003-10-09
CN1153529C (zh) 2004-06-16
ITMI991219A1 (it) 2000-12-01
ATE248533T1 (de) 2003-09-15
DE60004994T2 (de) 2004-07-22
IT1312592B1 (it) 2002-04-22
WO2000072710A1 (en) 2000-12-07
AU4925400A (en) 2000-12-18
ITMI991219A0 (it) 1999-05-31
CN1352533A (zh) 2002-06-05

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