EP1061162A1 - Procédé de fabrication d'un article textile pur cachemire - Google Patents

Procédé de fabrication d'un article textile pur cachemire Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1061162A1
EP1061162A1 EP00201095A EP00201095A EP1061162A1 EP 1061162 A1 EP1061162 A1 EP 1061162A1 EP 00201095 A EP00201095 A EP 00201095A EP 00201095 A EP00201095 A EP 00201095A EP 1061162 A1 EP1061162 A1 EP 1061162A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
yarn
process according
fibres
pure cashmere
kuralon
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP00201095A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP1061162B2 (fr
EP1061162B1 (fr
Inventor
Jacopo Geraldini
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Individual
Original Assignee
Individual
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Filing date
Publication date
Family has litigation
First worldwide family litigation filed litigation Critical https://patents.darts-ip.com/?family=11383172&utm_source=google_patent&utm_medium=platform_link&utm_campaign=public_patent_search&patent=EP1061162(A1) "Global patent litigation dataset” by Darts-ip is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.
Application filed by Individual filed Critical Individual
Priority to DE60000468T priority Critical patent/DE60000468T3/de
Publication of EP1061162A1 publication Critical patent/EP1061162A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP1061162B1 publication Critical patent/EP1061162B1/fr
Publication of EP1061162B2 publication Critical patent/EP1061162B2/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/40—Yarns in which fibres are united by adhesives; Impregnated yarns or threads
    • D02G3/404—Yarns or threads coated with polymeric solutions
    • D02G3/406—Yarns or threads coated with polymeric solutions where the polymeric solution is removable at a later stage, e.g. by washing
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/283—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/233—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads protein-based, e.g. wool or silk
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/573—Tensile strength
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/60—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the warp or weft elements other than yarns or threads
    • D03D15/68—Scaffolding threads, i.e. threads removed after weaving
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06Q—DECORATING TEXTILES
    • D06Q1/00—Decorating textiles
    • D06Q1/02—Producing patterns by locally destroying or modifying the fibres of a web by chemical actions, e.g. making translucent
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/02—Wool
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2321/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D10B2321/06—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polymers of unsaturated alcohols, e.g. polyvinyl alcohol, or of their acetals or ketals

Definitions

  • the present invention refers to a process for the manufacture of a textile article made of pure cashmere, whether a literally called fabric or a knitted fabric or a jersey fabric.
  • the cashmere is known to be a valuable material that is highly demanded by high level customs.
  • purpose of the present invention is to realise a process that allows to obtain a high count pure cashmere textile article at a low price.
  • such purpose is attained by means of a process characterized in that it comprises the following sequence of steps: (a) association of first pure cashmere fibres with second fibres of material dissolvable in a slightly acid liquid solution at high temperature; (b) weaving of the obtained association; (c) dissolution of said second fibres by means of a slightly acid liquid solution at high temperature.
  • said second fibres of material dissolvable in acid liquid solution at high temperature are made up of synthetic fibres.
  • association is, preferably, obtained by doubling a yarn of pure cashmere with a yarn thread of synthetic fibre.
  • the yarn of cashmere can have a count varying from 50,000 Nm to 120,000 Nm, size beyond which the yarn of cashmere has a sufficient strength to allow its weaving without any support yarn. According to a currently preferred embodiment of the present invention the yarn of cashmere being used has a count of 80,000 Nm.
  • the synthetic fibre yam can be of the type known by the trade name of Kuralon K-II, having the followings characteristics: Technical Characteristics Values Flock Fineness 3.2 ⁇ 0.3 dtex Length: square cut 38 and 51 oblique cut (CV 35%) 85 Strength 8.5 ⁇ 1.5 cN/dtex Elongation 11 ⁇ 4 % Bale Fineness 2.2 ⁇ 0.3 dtex Cut (diagonal) 85 ⁇ 30 mm Weight 20 g/m Solubility in water Fibre as such 80 ⁇ 10 °C Mixed in fabric 90 ⁇ 10 °C Vaporisation Temperature: cardboard tubes 90 °C max plastic tubes 80 °C max Dissolution Water temperature: soak (for ca. 30 min) 85 - 95°C rinse ( for ca. 10 min) 40 °C Water/fabric ratio 50/1 by weight Water acidity 4 - 4.5 pH
  • an algaenic fibre known by the trade name of Solvron can also be used.
  • the doubling operation is carried out in a sense opposite to the one of the individual yarn, that is with S torsion.
  • the doubled yarn 3 thus obtained undergoes an operation of weaving according to the known art, for example in order to obtain a cloth weave as the one shown in Figure 2.
  • the synthetic yarn is eliminated in a slightly acid liquid solution, having a pH comprised between 4 and 4.5, when the temperature of the solution reaches 85 °C by means of an operation that is defined of dissolution.
  • Said synthetic material does not leave any kind of residue in the fabric thus obtained even if working in selvedge thus guaranteeing much higher quality standard than the ones that can be obtained by the known techniques.
  • the fabric thus obtained is then submitted to a dyeing process, for example comprising soaking in a neutral bath for 10 min at 80 °C, dyeing with acid colours for 100 min at 80 °C and fulling with wet enzymatic detergents at room temperature for 25 min.
  • the association of the two types of fibres is preferably carried out by an doubling operation of a yarn of cashmere with a synthetic yarn, as previously described with reference to the drawings.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
  • Coloring (AREA)
  • Artificial Filaments (AREA)
EP00201095A 1999-06-15 2000-03-27 Procédé de fabrication d'un article textile pur cachemire Expired - Lifetime EP1061162B2 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE60000468T DE60000468T3 (de) 1999-06-15 2000-03-27 Verfahren zum Herstellen eines reinen Kaschmirtextilartikels

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
IT1999MI001332A IT1312400B1 (it) 1999-06-15 1999-06-15 Processo per la fabbricazione di un articolo tessile in puro cashmere
ITMI991332 1999-06-15

Publications (3)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1061162A1 true EP1061162A1 (fr) 2000-12-20
EP1061162B1 EP1061162B1 (fr) 2002-09-18
EP1061162B2 EP1061162B2 (fr) 2010-02-10

Family

ID=11383172

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP00201095A Expired - Lifetime EP1061162B2 (fr) 1999-06-15 2000-03-27 Procédé de fabrication d'un article textile pur cachemire

Country Status (5)

Country Link
EP (1) EP1061162B2 (fr)
AT (1) ATE224470T1 (fr)
DE (1) DE60000468T3 (fr)
ES (1) ES2181624T5 (fr)
IT (1) IT1312400B1 (fr)

Cited By (20)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1411160A1 (fr) * 2002-10-16 2004-04-21 Jacopo Geraldini Procédé de fabrication d'un produit en cashemire pur
EP1953280A2 (fr) 2007-01-31 2008-08-06 Jacopo Geraldini Processus de production d'un tissu à base de fibres animales extrafines qui ne peuvent pas être tissées industriellement, et tissu ainsi obtenu
EP1967622A2 (fr) 2007-03-09 2008-09-10 Jacopo Geraldini Procédé pour la production d'un textile avec des fibres d'animal extra-fines qui ne peuvent pas être tissées à l'échelle industrielle, à l'aide de filaments synthétiques continus solubles dans l'eau
US7520121B2 (en) 2004-03-15 2009-04-21 Kuraray Trading Co., Ltd. Composite twisted yarn
EP2050845A1 (fr) * 2007-10-19 2009-04-22 Jacopo Geraldini Procédé de fabrication d'une étoffe à partir de fils super-extra fins de fibres de grande qualité, ne pouvant pas être autrement produit industriellement
WO2009098585A2 (fr) * 2008-02-08 2009-08-13 Ghertex S.R.L. Procédé pour fabriquer un fil multicomposant et fil multicomposant ainsi fabriqué
WO2009098584A2 (fr) * 2008-02-08 2009-08-13 Ghertex S.R.L. Procédé de production d'un tissu et tissu ainsi produit
WO2009098583A1 (fr) * 2008-02-08 2009-08-13 Ghertex S.R.L. Procédé de production d'un fil comprenant un mélange de fibres naturelles et/ou artificielles et/ou synthétiques et/ou minérales, soit pures, soit mélangées entre elles, et procédé de production d'un tissu constitué d'un tel fil
EP2098623A1 (fr) * 2008-03-06 2009-09-09 IPAM S.r.l. Procédé de fabrication d'un article textile en fibres cachemire ou autres fibres d'origine animale
ITMI20081673A1 (it) * 2008-09-22 2010-03-23 Canepa S P A Procedimento per la realizzazione di un filato sottile di fibre naturali animali o vegetali in puro o in mischia tra di loro atto alla realizzazione di un tessuto
CN101831755A (zh) * 2010-05-27 2010-09-15 内蒙古鹿王羊绒有限公司 单纱织物
ITMI20101404A1 (it) * 2010-07-28 2012-01-29 Citterio Flli Spa Procedimento di produzione di un tessuto in fibre tessili naturali animali, particolarmente fibre tessili naturali di tipo pregiato
CN102677243A (zh) * 2012-05-09 2012-09-19 宁夏嘉源绒业集团有限公司 超细山羊绒机织纱线的制备方法
US20130037163A1 (en) * 2010-04-20 2013-02-14 Asano Nenshi Co Ltd Bulked yarn and wound yarn for production of woven or knit fabric, woven or knit fabric, and method for producing the same
CN103451793A (zh) * 2013-08-29 2013-12-18 新疆华春毛纺有限公司 16支山羊绒单纱纺纱工艺
CN105648600A (zh) * 2016-01-29 2016-06-08 安徽省安庆市天峰纺织有限公司 一种混纺纱布的纺纱方法
EP3162955A1 (fr) 2015-10-28 2017-05-03 Filatura di Trivero S.p.A. Methode de fabrication d'un fil a partir d'une fibre naturelle et tissu ainsi obtenu
ITUA20162888A1 (it) * 2016-04-26 2017-10-26 Jacopo Geraldini Procedimento per la produzione di materiale tessile costituito da filati derivati da fibre animali e/o vegetali di pregio, extrafini, con titolo tale da essere ritenuti non tessibili con telai meccanici e materiale tessile ottenuto con il procedimento
CN108411418A (zh) * 2018-05-22 2018-08-17 清华大学 用于机绣的羊绒绣线和机绣品及其绣制方法
US10174443B2 (en) 2011-10-19 2019-01-08 Canepa S.P.A. Process for improving weavability of a yarn

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN103757777B (zh) * 2014-01-22 2016-03-30 宁波康赛妮毛绒制品有限公司 一种山羊绒与拉伸羊毛混纺纱线及其制备方法

Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS55128040A (en) * 1979-03-23 1980-10-03 Toray Industries Production of miled like knitted fabric
GB2267711A (en) * 1991-04-10 1993-12-15 Isolyser Co Hot - water soluble polyvinyl alcohol fabric articles and method of disposal thereof
DE4239341A1 (de) * 1992-11-23 1994-05-26 Fraas Ag & Co V Gewebe aus Baumwolle mit cashmereartigem Charakter und Verfahren zu dessen Herstellung

Family Cites Families (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB1068662A (en) † 1962-10-20 1967-05-10 Hanjiro Fujii Novel yarn
JPS4898135A (fr) † 1972-03-31 1973-12-13
JPS49101666A (fr) † 1973-02-02 1974-09-26
JPS53126336A (en) † 1977-04-07 1978-11-04 Shikibo Ltd Bulky yarn with exremely soft twists
JPS5598936A (en) † 1979-01-18 1980-07-28 Unitika Ltd Production of wool yarn fabric
IT1240487B (it) † 1990-07-12 1993-12-17 Piana Sergio Loro Procedimento per la realizzazione di un tessuto di fibre animali con filati a capo unico e tessuto ottenuto con tale procedimento.
DE69416051T2 (de) † 1993-07-29 1999-06-10 Kuraray Co., Ltd., Kurashiki, Okayama Wasserlösliche Faser auf Polyvinylalkohol-Basis

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS55128040A (en) * 1979-03-23 1980-10-03 Toray Industries Production of miled like knitted fabric
GB2267711A (en) * 1991-04-10 1993-12-15 Isolyser Co Hot - water soluble polyvinyl alcohol fabric articles and method of disposal thereof
DE4239341A1 (de) * 1992-11-23 1994-05-26 Fraas Ag & Co V Gewebe aus Baumwolle mit cashmereartigem Charakter und Verfahren zu dessen Herstellung

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
DATABASE WPI Derwent World Patents Index; AN 1980-81772C, XP002148247 *

Cited By (27)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1411160A1 (fr) * 2002-10-16 2004-04-21 Jacopo Geraldini Procédé de fabrication d'un produit en cashemire pur
US7520121B2 (en) 2004-03-15 2009-04-21 Kuraray Trading Co., Ltd. Composite twisted yarn
EP1953280A2 (fr) 2007-01-31 2008-08-06 Jacopo Geraldini Processus de production d'un tissu à base de fibres animales extrafines qui ne peuvent pas être tissées industriellement, et tissu ainsi obtenu
EP1953280A3 (fr) * 2007-01-31 2008-10-29 Jacopo Geraldini Processus de production d'un tissu à base de fibres animales extrafines qui ne peuvent pas être tissées industriellement, et tissu ainsi obtenu
EP1967622A2 (fr) 2007-03-09 2008-09-10 Jacopo Geraldini Procédé pour la production d'un textile avec des fibres d'animal extra-fines qui ne peuvent pas être tissées à l'échelle industrielle, à l'aide de filaments synthétiques continus solubles dans l'eau
EP1967622A3 (fr) * 2007-03-09 2008-10-08 Jacopo Geraldini Procédé pour la production d'un textile avec des fibres d'animal extra-fines qui ne peuvent pas être tissées à l'échelle industrielle, à l'aide de filaments synthétiques continus solubles dans l'eau
EP2050845A1 (fr) * 2007-10-19 2009-04-22 Jacopo Geraldini Procédé de fabrication d'une étoffe à partir de fils super-extra fins de fibres de grande qualité, ne pouvant pas être autrement produit industriellement
WO2009098584A3 (fr) * 2008-02-08 2009-10-01 Ghertex S.R.L. Procédé de production d'un tissu et tissu ainsi produit
WO2009098584A2 (fr) * 2008-02-08 2009-08-13 Ghertex S.R.L. Procédé de production d'un tissu et tissu ainsi produit
WO2009098583A1 (fr) * 2008-02-08 2009-08-13 Ghertex S.R.L. Procédé de production d'un fil comprenant un mélange de fibres naturelles et/ou artificielles et/ou synthétiques et/ou minérales, soit pures, soit mélangées entre elles, et procédé de production d'un tissu constitué d'un tel fil
WO2009098585A3 (fr) * 2008-02-08 2009-10-01 Ghertex S.R.L. Procédé pour fabriquer un fil multicomposant et fil multicomposant ainsi fabriqué
WO2009098585A2 (fr) * 2008-02-08 2009-08-13 Ghertex S.R.L. Procédé pour fabriquer un fil multicomposant et fil multicomposant ainsi fabriqué
EP2098623A1 (fr) * 2008-03-06 2009-09-09 IPAM S.r.l. Procédé de fabrication d'un article textile en fibres cachemire ou autres fibres d'origine animale
ITMI20081673A1 (it) * 2008-09-22 2010-03-23 Canepa S P A Procedimento per la realizzazione di un filato sottile di fibre naturali animali o vegetali in puro o in mischia tra di loro atto alla realizzazione di un tessuto
US9353465B2 (en) * 2010-04-20 2016-05-31 Kuraray Trading Co., Ltd. Bulked yarn and wound yarn for production of woven or knit fabric, woven or knit fabric, and method for producing the same
US20130037163A1 (en) * 2010-04-20 2013-02-14 Asano Nenshi Co Ltd Bulked yarn and wound yarn for production of woven or knit fabric, woven or knit fabric, and method for producing the same
CN101831755A (zh) * 2010-05-27 2010-09-15 内蒙古鹿王羊绒有限公司 单纱织物
ITMI20101404A1 (it) * 2010-07-28 2012-01-29 Citterio Flli Spa Procedimento di produzione di un tessuto in fibre tessili naturali animali, particolarmente fibre tessili naturali di tipo pregiato
US10174443B2 (en) 2011-10-19 2019-01-08 Canepa S.P.A. Process for improving weavability of a yarn
CN102677243A (zh) * 2012-05-09 2012-09-19 宁夏嘉源绒业集团有限公司 超细山羊绒机织纱线的制备方法
CN102677243B (zh) * 2012-05-09 2016-12-21 宁夏嘉源绒业集团有限公司 超细山羊绒机织纱线的制备方法
CN103451793A (zh) * 2013-08-29 2013-12-18 新疆华春毛纺有限公司 16支山羊绒单纱纺纱工艺
CN103451793B (zh) * 2013-08-29 2016-01-20 新疆华春毛纺有限公司 16支山羊绒单纱纺纱工艺
EP3162955A1 (fr) 2015-10-28 2017-05-03 Filatura di Trivero S.p.A. Methode de fabrication d'un fil a partir d'une fibre naturelle et tissu ainsi obtenu
CN105648600A (zh) * 2016-01-29 2016-06-08 安徽省安庆市天峰纺织有限公司 一种混纺纱布的纺纱方法
ITUA20162888A1 (it) * 2016-04-26 2017-10-26 Jacopo Geraldini Procedimento per la produzione di materiale tessile costituito da filati derivati da fibre animali e/o vegetali di pregio, extrafini, con titolo tale da essere ritenuti non tessibili con telai meccanici e materiale tessile ottenuto con il procedimento
CN108411418A (zh) * 2018-05-22 2018-08-17 清华大学 用于机绣的羊绒绣线和机绣品及其绣制方法

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
ITMI991332A0 (it) 1999-06-15
ES2181624T5 (es) 2010-05-17
DE60000468T2 (de) 2003-08-07
DE60000468D1 (de) 2002-10-24
ITMI991332A1 (it) 2000-12-15
ATE224470T1 (de) 2002-10-15
DE60000468T3 (de) 2013-01-03
IT1312400B1 (it) 2002-04-17
ES2181624T3 (es) 2003-03-01
EP1061162B2 (fr) 2010-02-10
EP1061162B1 (fr) 2002-09-18

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