Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
  • A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
  • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
  • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]

Definitions

• the invention relates to a new use and a new method for the treatment and coloring of hair, preferably gray hair, in particular of living human hair, with natural substances and agents or preparations which are used in carrying out the method.
• the cosmetic industry uses lead acetate in some countries, which is toxic and is therefore prohibited in the European Cosmetics Regulation. This lead acetate is preferably used as a solution applied to the hair and remains there for a long time without being washed off.
• the object of the invention was therefore to develop a simple and less time-consuming hair dye and hair dyeing process with which the disadvantages of the prior art are overcome.
• the invention relates to the use of Quillaja products for dyeing the hair.
• the invention also relates to the use of hair cosmetic preparations containing Quillaja products for dyeing the hair.
• the invention also relates to a hair dye or a hair dye preparation based on Quillaja products as a coloring active ingredient.
• Hair cosmetic preparations according to the invention which are used only for a short time, for example hair shampoo, hair rinsing or hair treatment or other conditioning agents which are rinsed out again after use, are preferred.
• the active substances and preparations according to the invention are outstandingly suitable for dyeing human hair, in particular the hair on the head, and are used particularly advantageously for gray hair, and indeed for beginning to turn gray, but also with gray hair with a high proportion of white. In this way, the visible graying of the hair is avoided or at least significantly delayed.
• the Quiliaja products are preferably used in the form of hair cosmetic preparations, which can have known and customary compositions. Depending on the frequency of use and its duration and the active ingredient concentration, a color tone in the range from light brown to dark brown and black-brown can be set. If the user determines that the desired shade has been reached, he can interrupt the coloring treatment and resume it, e.g. gray hair has grown back. The application is therefore particularly advantageous when brown hair turns gray.
• the invention therefore also relates to a process for dyeing the hair, in particular gray hair, by repeated, in particular brief, use of the preparations according to the invention.
• Extracts of wood and bark for example the bast part, or also powders or granules of these parts of the Quillaja plant, in particular Quillaja saponaria, a tree-like, evergreen rose plant (Quillaja saponaria Molina, Rosaceae) grown in Chile, Peru and Peru can be used as Quillaja products used by Quillaja smegmadermos DC.
• the trunk bark or trunk bark pieces can preferably be used. They are also known as quillaja bark, soap bark, panama bark, soap wood, wash bark or wash wood. Saponins contained therein and extracts, especially the purified products, have already been used in shampoos because of their foaming and cleaning properties.
• Typical ingredients of the quillaja bark and the quiliaja products according to the invention are (as also described in the literature) quillaja saponins, tannins, quillaja acid (sapogenin) and sucrose.
• the powders and granules can be obtained by grinding or granulating and sieving.
• Useful powder or granules include e.g. Particles that are sieved with particle sizes from 100 microns to 1000 microns.
• the Quillaja extracts can be obtained in a known manner using extraction methods such as maceration, digestion, decoction, infusion or leaching. Water, lower alcohols, low molecular weight ketones or mixtures thereof can be used as solvents.
• the treatment can be done with hot or cold solvent.
• Quillajar cutlets are preferably boiled with water for several hours under reflux.
• the solution is cooled and filtered and, if necessary, previously concentrated to a desired higher concentration, e.g. 1 part by weight of solid obtained by extraction in 5 parts by weight of solvent or water.
• the extracts are separated from the residue, for example by separation methods such as filters, and are preferably used without further purification.
• shredded Quillaja trunk bark for example 1 kg
• the extract is used in the manufacture of hair cosmetic preparations (for example shampoo), for example by using it directly in parts of the water content otherwise used or also for example after dilution with water, for example to half the concentration.
• hair cosmetic preparations for example shampoo
• Incorporation of the extracts into the basics of hair cosmetic preparations can be carried out in the manner known per se for water.
• the active compounds according to the invention can be used as a preferably surfactant-containing solution or preparation, or in particular in hair cosmetic preparations which are preferably suitable for other applications (shampoo, conditioner, treatment) and are also suitable. Cationic and anionic surfactants are preferred.
• the preparations with the Quillaja active ingredients according to the invention can e.g. in amounts of 0.1 to 99% by weight, preferably 1 to 50% by weight, but in particular 5 to 20% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.
• agents used according to the invention are generally aqueous agents which can contain constituents of the kind generally used in cosmetic agents for hair, such as solvents, surface-active agents, Thickening agents, treating agents, alkalizing or acidifying agents for adjusting the pH, preservatives or perfumes.
• the agents for adjusting the pH are selected, for example, from alkanolamines, such as monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, alkali metal hydroxides and carbonates or ammonium, ammonia, aliphatic or aromatic Amines such as morpholine, diathyamine, hydroxylamine.
• alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, alkali metal hydroxides and carbonates or ammonium, ammonia, aliphatic or aromatic Amines such as morpholine, diathyamine, hydroxylamine.
• the acidifying agents are, for example, organic or inorganic acids, such as lactic acid, acetic acid, tartaric acid, phosphoric acid, hydrochloric acid and citric acid. In this way, for example, suitable pH values can be set in the neutral range.
• the solvents which are suitable in agents are solvents such as water, in particular alcohols, such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, phenylethyl alcohol or glycols or glycol ethers, such as e.g. Ethylene glycol and its monomethyl ether, monoethyl ether and monobutyl ether, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and alkyl ethers such as diethylene glycol monobutyl ether e.g. in concentrations between 0.5 and 75%, preferably between 2 and 50% by weight, based on the total weight of each of the agents.
• alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, phenylethyl alcohol or glycols or glycol ethers
• Ethylene glycol and its monomethyl ether monoethyl ether and monobutyl ether
• propylene glycol butylene glycol
• Suitable surfactants are anionic, cationic, non-ionic and amphoteric surfactants or mixtures thereof. These surface-active agents are preferably used in proportions between 0.1 to 60% by weight and particularly preferably between 1 and 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent.
• the anionic agents such as the alkali metal salts, magnesium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, alkanolamine salts of the following compounds, are to be mentioned in particular:
• fatty acids such as lauric acid, myristic acid, oleic acid, ricinoleic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, hydrogenated acids of copra oil, polyglycol ether carboxylic acids.
• the salts of fatty amines can be used as cationic surface-active agents.
• the alkyl groups of the above quaternary ammonium derivatives are long chain groups preferably having 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Amine oxides are also to be mentioned among the compounds with a cationic character.
• Suitable amphoteric surface-active agents are in particular the alkylamino (mono- and di-) propionates, the betaines, such as the alkylbetaines, N-alkylsulfobetaines, N-alkylaminobetaines, the alkyl radical of which has 8 to 22 carbon atoms, cycloimidinium compounds, the alkylimidazolines.
• nonionic surface-active agents which can be used in the agents according to the invention can in particular be selected from the following group:
• the preparations or compositions used according to the invention can also contain fatty acids and their amides, such as mono- and diethanolamides of fatty acids derived from Kopra, of lauric acid and oleic acid e.g. in concentrations between 0.05 and 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent.
• fatty acids and their amides such as mono- and diethanolamides of fatty acids derived from Kopra, of lauric acid and oleic acid e.g. in concentrations between 0.05 and 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent.
• the thickeners which can be added to the agents used according to the invention are preferably selected from sodium alginate, gum arabic, xanthan gum, guar gum, cellulose derivatives, such as methyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, the sodium salt of carboxymethyl cellulose and crosslinked acrylic acid polymers.
• Mineral thickeners such as bentonite can also be used.
• thickeners are used alone or as a mixture and are preferably present in proportions between 0.1 and 5% by weight, based on the total weight of each of the agents, preferably between 0.5 and 3% by weight.
• An extract A (1 part by weight of quillaja bark with 10 parts by weight of water) is prepared as described. 1 kg schnitzel of the Quillaja trunk bark is boiled with 10 l water under reflux for 4 hours. After cooling, the extract obtained is filtered and used as extract A.
• the water extract is either a) the (pure) extract A or b) a mixture of equal parts by weight of water and extract A or c) a mixture of 8 parts by weight of water and 2 parts by weight of extract A or d) a mixture from 2 parts by weight of water and 8 parts by weight of extract A.
• example 1 the (pure) extract A or b) a mixture of equal parts by weight of water and extract A or c) a mixture of 8 parts by weight of water and 2 parts by weight of extract A or d) a mixture from 2 parts by weight of water and 8 parts by weight of extract A.
• Coco betaine (Dehyton AB 30, Henkel) 40
• Cocamide MEA (Comperlan KM, Henkel) 3
• Linoleamide DEA (Comperlan F, Henkel) 3.5
• Coco Betaine (Dehyton AB 30, Henkel) 5
• Polyquaternium-10 (Polymer IR 400, Amerchol) 0.5 cocamidopropyl betaine
• Cetearyl stearate (Cutina MD, Henkel) 0.5
• Cocamidopropyl betaine (Euperlan PK 3000-AM, Henkel) 3.0
• Polyquaternium-10 (Polymer IR 400, Amerchol) 0.2
• PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate (Cetiol HE, Henkel) 2.0
• Lauramide DEA Comperlan LD, Henkel
• PEG-150 Distearate Alkamuls 6000 DS, Rhône-Poulenc
• Polysorbate-80 (Alkamuls PSMO-20, Rhonen-Poulenc) 2.0
• PEG-150 Distearate (Alkamuls 6000 DS, Rh ⁇ ne-Poulenc) 1, 5
• PEG-150 Distearate (Alkamuls 6000 DS, Rh ⁇ ne-Poulenc) 1.5
• Polysorbate-20 (Alkamuls PSML-20, Rhönen-Poulenc) 0.25

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• Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
• Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
• General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Public Health (AREA)
• Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
• Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
• Biotechnology (AREA)
• Botany (AREA)
• Microbiology (AREA)
• Mycology (AREA)
• Birds (AREA)
• Epidemiology (AREA)
• Cosmetics (AREA)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

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• 1996
  • 1996-06-27 DE DE19625738A patent/DE19625738A1/de not_active Withdrawn
• 1997
  • 1997-06-18 WO PCT/EP1997/003165 patent/WO1997049377A1/de not_active Application Discontinuation
  • 1997-06-18 EP EP97928227A patent/EP0912159A1/de not_active Withdrawn
  • 1997-06-18 JP JP10502266A patent/JP2000512647A/ja active Pending

Non-Patent Citations (1)

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