EP0722586B1 - Custom apparel manufacturing apparatus and method - Google Patents

Custom apparel manufacturing apparatus and method Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0722586B1
EP0722586B1 EP95929488A EP95929488A EP0722586B1 EP 0722586 B1 EP0722586 B1 EP 0722586B1 EP 95929488 A EP95929488 A EP 95929488A EP 95929488 A EP95929488 A EP 95929488A EP 0722586 B1 EP0722586 B1 EP 0722586B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
try
dimensions
apparel
fit
apparels
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
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EP95929488A
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German (de)
English (en)
French (fr)
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EP0722586A4 (en
EP0722586A1 (en
Inventor
Sung Kyu Park
Bethe M. Palmer
Gerald S. Ruderman
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Levi Strauss and Co
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Levi Strauss and Co
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Publication date
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Publication of EP0722586A1 publication Critical patent/EP0722586A1/en
Publication of EP0722586A4 publication Critical patent/EP0722586A4/en
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Publication of EP0722586B1 publication Critical patent/EP0722586B1/en
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
    • A41H3/007—Methods of drafting or marking-out patterns using computers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H1/00—Measuring aids or methods
    • A41H1/10—Measuring jackets for marking-out patterns

Definitions

  • This invention relates generally to the custom manufacturing of fitted apparel and more particularly to an apparatus and method for manufacturing custom tailored apparel using multiple try-on apparels and a system.
  • the first two approaches used together constitute classical custom tailoring. While generally producing a good fit, the skilled labor of the tailor or seamstress required for traditional custom tailoring makes it too costly for manufacturers and retailers of ready to wear clothing to use, and too expensive for many consumers.
  • Adjustable try-on garments or patterns are known in the art and have been used to address the problem.This may also require skilled labor at the retail site, in order for the adjustments to be made properly. Whether only one adjustable garment is used or even several adjustable garments in the standard sizes, a considerable amount of labor and expense also remains in the cutting and manufacturing side, since each garment must be uniquely cut to the dimensions adjusted on each customer.
  • the use of computers can speed up the collection of the information that needs to be transmitted about the adjustments to be made, but the unique cutting requirements are still costly and time-consuming. Even where computers are used to create a scaled pattern based on actual measurements, the costs and time for uniquely cutting to those dimensions usually remain significant.
  • the optical or electronic device is used to sense and capture the measurements of a person's body.
  • the individual wears a special garment having measuring devices that can be "read” by the system.
  • This can be combined with a computer system such as one which creates or scales a special pattern based on such readings.
  • the measurements can be taken or made interactively and accurately, but each garment must still be cut to the unique dimensions so ascertained.
  • volume manufacturers may make as many as 60,000 or 70,000 pairs of pants a week in factories around the world. Costs have typically been kept low with the use of uniform sizes, which lowers or eliminates the need for specially skilled labor, and specialized, unique cutting and tracking. Custom tailoring done according to the traditional methods is inconsistent with high volume manufacturing and low costs.
  • the present invention is a system and method for custom tailoring and manufacturing apparel by using numerous try-on apparels of differing, pre-determined dimensions to make a finished product.
  • a system is used to keep track of the number of try-on apparels and each of their dimensions.
  • a device associated with the system is used to collect the consumer's responses about fit. If one try-on apparel does not fit, the system suggests a next one to try, according to pre-defined rules. When a particular try-on apparel's fit has been approved for purchase by the consumer, this is reported to a manufacturing system, where a piece of apparel corresponding to the dimensions of the approved try-on apparel is cut, stitched, treated, and shipped as a finished apparel.
  • Apparel manufactured according to the method and apparatus of the present invention can be constructed in volume from one of numerous pre-determined dimensions corresponding to the approved, pre-determined dimensions of a try-on apparel actually selected and tried by a customer.
  • Yet another feature of the invention is its ability to collect approved fit information by customer and convey it to remote manufacturing sites. Using the pre-determined dimensions, or codes corresponding to them, together with ordering and shipping information a retailer can fill orders quickly for items not carried in inventory.
  • Still another feature of systems constructed according to the present invention is that they use expert system rules.
  • new types of apparel are considered for manufacture, such as shirts or footwear, for example, rules appropriate to fitting them can be developed and implemented.
  • Figure 1 is an illustrative front and side view of a try-on apparel, shelves containing numerous other try-on apparels, and a system for storing information about them for transmission to a manufacturing system, according to the present invention.
  • Figure 2 is a schematic drawing illustrating some types of apparel that can be made using the present invention.
  • Figure 3 is a front view of a series of shelves containing try-on apparel.
  • Figure 4 is a flow diagram depicting the principal steps in the fitting process.
  • Figure 5 is a flow diagram illustrating detailed steps of part of the fitting process.
  • Figure 6 is a flow diagram showing another example a possible detail step of the fitting process.
  • Figure 7 is a flowchart of the principal logic of a system constructed according to the present invention.
  • Figure 8 is an illustrative front perspective view of some possible embodiments of a system constructed according to the present invention.
  • Figure 9 is a front perspective view illustrating some types of input devices.
  • Figure 10 is a flow diagram of the steps used to determine the dimensions to use to construct try-on apparel, the number to make and the rules for trying them.
  • Figure 11 shows three examples of dimensions considered in a hypothetical fitting.
  • Figure 12 is a schematic view of a touchscreen interface of a device used to collect fit information according to the present invention, depicting a beginning screen.
  • Figure 13 is a schematic view of a touchscreen interface of a device used to collect fit information according to the present invention, depicting a screen showing options eliminated by a prospective buyer's fit responses.
  • Figure 14 is a schematic view of a touchscreen interface of a device used to collect fit information according to the present invention, depicting an alternative way of entering initial dimensions information.
  • Figure 15 is a schematic view of a touchscreen interface of a device used to collect fit information according to the present invention, depicting the results from two try-ons.
  • Figure 16 is a schematic view of a touchscreen interface of a device used to collect fit information according to the present invention, depicting hem length options of a selected try-on apparel.
  • Figure 17 is a schematic view of a touchscreen interface of a device used to collect fit information according to the present invention, depicting final approval and purchase options.
  • a try-on apparel 10 is shown in the form of a pair of women's jeans.
  • any of a number of different types of apparel such as apparel for humans or pets capable of significant variations in dimensions can be made according to the method and apparatus of the present invention.
  • a side view 12 is shown of try-on apparel 10, bearing a measuring device 14.
  • a considerable number of try-on apparels 10, each having different dimensions from the others are kept at a retail store or site in containers or racks such as shelves 20.
  • each cube 30 of shelves 20 contains a specific number of try-on apparels 10.
  • five different try-on apparels 10 are shown in a cube 30.
  • nearly 500 try-on apparels, each having dimensions from each of the others are used.
  • these are not used as goods inventory, but are reserved for try-ons.
  • try-on apparels 10 are stored in shelves 20 according to gradations in sizes of their dimensions. For example, for women's pants, try-on apparels 10 having a waist size of 24 would be stored in the first column of shelves 20, with each cube 30 holding 5 pairs of the same hip size. Hip sizes increase by an inch for each cube 30 of five try-on apparel 10. Within a cube 30, try-on apparels 10 having five different rise measurements are kept for each particular waist/hip combination in this example. As will be shown, a method of the present invention is used to determine the number of try-on apparels 10 to be made for a store, together with their dimensions for a selected design and configuration of apparel such as women's jeans.
  • system 40 is used within a retail store to store the dimensions of each of the try-on apparels 10 in shelves 20. Additional systems or terminals 42 can be used as well.
  • the customer selects try-on apparels 10, and reports fit information to a clerk for entering into system 40. If the first selection does not fit, system 40 recommends the next try-on apparel 10 to try, using the customer's fit information responses. Fit information responses might include a request to make the waist looser, for example.
  • System 40 will use that information to determine which try-on apparel 10 to suggest next. When fit has been approved by the customer, this can be indicated to system 40 and further conveyed to a server 50, having network and other address information stored on disks or other storage devices 52. The exact dimensions of the try-on apparel 10 approved by the customer can then be transmitted on to cutter controller 60.
  • cutter controller 60 will contain information about pre-defined patterns for cutting parts of fabric according to the exact dimensions of try-on apparel 10 approved by the customer.
  • the fabric can be tracked by manufacturing system 70.
  • Manufacturing system 70 may include several subsystems, such as QA tracking system 80 and shipping system 90.
  • the fabric may stitched at stitching station 110, treated at treatment station 120, packaged at station 123 and then shipped to the retail store or directly to the customer by shipping system 90.
  • Try-on apparel 10 is shown here as a pair of women's jeans, having pre-determined hip 10a, waist 10b and rise 10c dimensions.
  • rise is measured as the distance between the crotch and the waist of a pair of pants or jeans, from front to back. If the rise is shorter, the waist will sit lower on the wearer. If the rise is higher, the waist will be higher on the wearer.
  • an apparel of another type of configuration is depicted as shirt 13.
  • footwear such as boots 17 or other fitted apparel such as gloves 18 can be made according to the method and apparatus of the present invention.
  • a pattern 10x is shown having several parts, 10z. Each part can be marked with a code 10y which corresponds to the same dimensions as a particular try-on apparel 10.
  • a side view 12 of try-on apparel 10 is shown, with a measuring device 14 attached to an outer leg.
  • device 14 is marked with the allowable dimensions for an inseam length for a pair of jeans.
  • each cube 30 of shelves 20 contains five try-on apparel 10, all of which have the same hip 10a and waist 10b measurements, but each having a different rise 10c measurement.
  • nearly 500 different pairs of try-on apparel 10 are used to determine fit.
  • for each waist, hip and rise combination there are at least 9 possible inseam or hem lengths.
  • a matrix of several thousand different body dimension combinations or sizes is used to produce a finished apparel.
  • Step A0 a sales clerk can measure the customer at step A1 or, alternatively, ask the customer his or her standard size.
  • the clerk enters hip 10a, waist 10b, and rise 10c information into the system, using the data collected from the customer.
  • step A3 the system will suggest a specific try-on apparel 10 to try on. In the situation where there are several hundred or thousands of try-ons, the clerk typically gets the specific try-on apparel 10 suggested by the system shown here as step A4.
  • step A11 After the customer tries this try-on apparel 10, if he or she likes the fit and feel of try-on apparel 10 as indicated at step A11, the clerk proceeds to step A13 to capture information about hem lengths or inseam tape measurements and then enters an order into the system at step A14.
  • step A5 if the customer wants modifications, as illustrated at step A5, such as a looser waist or hips or a higher or lower rise, these modifications are indicated to the system at step A6 by the clerk.
  • the system recommends at step A7, a new try-on apparel 10 to try, having dimensions that more closely approximate those indicated as desirable.
  • the clerk gets the new try-on apparel 10 at step A8, and the customer tries that on at step A9. If the customer likes the fit and feel of that try-on apparel 10 (step A12), steps A13 and A14 are taken. If not, and the customer wants additional modifications, as shown at step A10, steps A6 through A10 are repeated until the customer either approves a try-on apparel 10, or decides not to purchase (DNP).
  • DNP decides not to purchase
  • FIG 5 a more detailed view of the operation of some of the steps of the present invention is shown in a flow diagram.
  • a customer has tried on a try-on apparel 10 that is a pair of pants and wants more room in the seat area.
  • the system suggests expanding hip 10a measurements at step B1. If this new try-on apparel 10 fits (Step B2), the clerk proceeds to step A13 in previous Figure 4 to collect additional information.
  • the system suggests expanding hip 10a measurements again and will suggest yet another try-on apparel 10, having these new dimensions at step B3.
  • the fit of this try-on apparel 10 is checked.
  • step B5 the system proceeds to step B5 to see if there is a reasonable fashion limit.
  • the system may suggest an alternate set of try-on apparel 10 such one having a taller rise 10c, as indicated at step B6. It is possible that that or a larger waist 10b, as could be suggested at step B6, might suggest a try-on apparel 10 that will fit the customer but stay within the fashion limits imposed by the manufacturer. If the new try-on apparel 10 fits, (Step B7) the system instructs the clerk to go to Step A13. If not, another suggestion may be made at step B8, namely start with larger waist.
  • FIG 6 another set of variations in the process is shown in which the customer wants her jeans to sit lower on her hips (step C0).
  • the present invention will suggest a shorter rise, first at Step C1, and continue until a fashion limit is reached at step C5. If the try-on apparel 10 still does not fit, the system will suggest a larger waist, as shown at Step C6. Processing continues until a fit is approved or the customer decides not to purchase.
  • step D0 the system checks for fit at D1. If that try-on apparel 10 fits, and the customer wants to order, the order is taken at step D2. If that apparel does not fit, the system checks to see if the waist dimension was approved by the customer at D3. If not, a next check is made to see if a waist fashion limit has been reached at step D4. If yes, the system will check to see if either a different hip 10a or rise 10c suggestion is possible at step D5. If so, a different try-on apparel 10 will be suggested. If not, no other options appear possible and the system proceeds to DB to collect did not purchase information at step 16.
  • Step D7 if a waist limit was not reached, the processing proceeds to Step D7, to see if the hip 10a dimensions were approved. Processing similar to that described for the waist dimensions takes place at steps D8, D9 and D10. If dimension choices are still possible, the system will ask if the rise 10c of the current try-on apparel 10 is approved at Step D11. If not, limits and remaining choices are checked at steps D12 and D13. The system continues to disable those options that it has determined are no longer available. Finally, still in Figure 7 at Step D15, the system checks to see if any dimension options can still be suggested, if a try-on apparel 10 has still not been approved. If some remain, the system proceeds to step D17, to suggest one and the customer may try that one.
  • a manual system might use a cardfile 41, together with an instruction manual or sheet to go through the logic illustrated in the previous figure.
  • an electronic device 42 such as a dedicated palmtop device similar to a pre-programmed electronic calculator could be used. Either of these might be used in conjunction with a fax machine 43 or a modem 44 to convey the fit information to a manufacturing system.
  • a voice-activated system or device 45 could be connected to a computer system 40 to implement the invention.
  • FIG. 9 a preferred embodiment of the present invention using an interactive touchscreen 40c is shown.
  • a simpler display device 40b could also be used with a keyboard.
  • a touchscreen 40c is coupled to a system 40 and a keyboard.
  • an industry standard personal computer system is used with a touch sensitive display and keyboard.
  • the personal computer is programmed in Visual Basic to create the easy to use interface, but as will be apparent to those skilled in the art, any of a number of computer systems such as laptops, mainframes, mini-computers, parallel processors, neural nets and so on could be used.
  • any of a number of programming languages exist which permit one to create a graphical user interface or a voice interface or other interface that is simple and easy for either a clerk or a customer to use.
  • a preferred embodiment stores and accesses the dimension information in a matrix or table to access it.
  • the logic flows depicted above can be implemented in any of a number of ways to access such information, including software, firmware, hardware and so on.
  • the flow diagram indicates that an apparel design and configuration is chosen at Step E0.
  • this configuration is women's jeans. But it will be dear to those in the art that shirts, gloves, footwear or any other type of fitted apparel could be selected.
  • Step E1 a population sample is chosen. The size of this will depend on the type of apparel configuration selected. In a preferred embodiment, approximately 1300 individual measurements were used. At Step E2, these measurements are gathered either from individuals who are being measured for the first time, or, if any databases exist that may be relevant, from those.
  • actual measurements are taken from at least a subset of the sample, so that an expert can observe what differences in dimensions these individuals are likely to detect. For example, in a preferred embodiment, it was found that women who tried on jeans of different dimensions, were usually not able to detect differences of less than an inch in waist 10b or hip 10a dimensions. However, most women measured were able to detect differences as small as half an inch for rise 10c dimensions. These observations are made at Step E3 and used in Step E4, together with any relevant information about fashion limits to generate rules for selecting try-on apparels 10 at Step E4. The information is also used to decide at Step E5 how many try-on apparels 10 to make, and at Step E6, how many patterns, if any.
  • FIG. 11 an illustration is given of the selection process according to the method and apparatus of the present invention.
  • charts 11A, 11B and 11C waist 10b, hip 10a and rise 10c dimensions for a pair of jeans are shown, together with possible inseam or hem lengths 14a.
  • buttons 205, 210 and 215 indicate the clerk has entered a prospective buyer's name (Amy Smith) and the clerk's initials (bp).
  • the clerk measures the customer and enters her dimensions, here shown as Button 220 with a Waist value of 29, Button 225 with a hip measure of 42 and Button 230 with a rise of 25 1/2.
  • Button 235 can be used to indicate the customer did not purchase anything.
  • Button 240 can be selected to backup to a previous screen and Button 245 can be used if the clerk wishes to restart.
  • FIG 13 a screen is shown with Button 300 displaying the measurements taken for the customer and a try-on apparel 10 list 320, showing a try-on apparel 10 that has been suggested.
  • Figure 14 shows an alternate way of entering dimensions if no measurements are taken. Either the clerk or the prospective buyer can enter the buyer's standard size from a table 223. The size chosen is translated by the system into the dimensions of a try-on apparel 10 to suggest.
  • buttons having shaded portions 337 are shown. These dimension options or choices have been disabled by the system, after the customer has reported that some of the dimensions do not fit. Those Buttons 360-380 that have no shaded portion, are the remaining options.
  • Figure 15 shows the screen options presented after a try-on apparel 10 has been tried.
  • Figure 16 illustrates incorporating the inseam or hem length measurements, after a try-on apparel 10 has been selected.
  • the customer wants inseam 28 in Button 280.
  • Figure 17 shows a screen that can be used after all dimensions have been approved. If the customer wants to order, Button 383 is pressed, to call up order information screens, if desired. Button 385 can be used to call up screens for shipping information for use by the manufacturing system.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Biophysics (AREA)
  • Management, Administration, Business Operations System, And Electronic Commerce (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
  • Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)
  • Blow-Moulding Or Thermoforming Of Plastics Or The Like (AREA)
  • Image Processing (AREA)
  • Professional, Industrial, Or Sporting Protective Garments (AREA)
  • Electrical Discharge Machining, Electrochemical Machining, And Combined Machining (AREA)
  • General Factory Administration (AREA)
  • Compounds Of Unknown Constitution (AREA)
  • Seeds, Soups, And Other Foods (AREA)
  • Auxiliary Devices For And Details Of Packaging Control (AREA)
  • Numerical Control (AREA)
EP95929488A 1994-08-12 1995-08-11 Custom apparel manufacturing apparatus and method Expired - Lifetime EP0722586B1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US289406 1994-08-12
US08/289,406 US5548519A (en) 1994-08-12 1994-08-12 Custom apparel manufacturing apparatus and method
PCT/US1995/010253 WO1996005560A1 (en) 1994-08-12 1995-08-11 Custom apparel manufacturing apparatus and method

Publications (3)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0722586A1 EP0722586A1 (en) 1996-07-24
EP0722586A4 EP0722586A4 (en) 1997-02-05
EP0722586B1 true EP0722586B1 (en) 2001-12-05

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EP95929488A Expired - Lifetime EP0722586B1 (en) 1994-08-12 1995-08-11 Custom apparel manufacturing apparatus and method

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US (1) US5548519A (ru)
EP (1) EP0722586B1 (ru)
JP (1) JP3302371B2 (ru)
KR (1) KR100243730B1 (ru)
CN (1) CN1110756C (ru)
AT (1) ATE210318T1 (ru)
AU (1) AU685669B2 (ru)
BR (1) BR9506312A (ru)
CA (1) CA2173986C (ru)
CZ (1) CZ287201B6 (ru)
DE (1) DE69524374T2 (ru)
ES (1) ES2165923T3 (ru)
FI (1) FI117156B (ru)
HU (1) HU219644B (ru)
IS (1) IS4336A (ru)
NO (1) NO961426L (ru)
NZ (1) NZ291631A (ru)
PL (1) PL179621B1 (ru)
RU (1) RU2128931C1 (ru)
SK (1) SK284011B6 (ru)
WO (1) WO1996005560A1 (ru)
ZA (1) ZA956715B (ru)

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CA2173986C (en) 1999-10-19
CN1110756C (zh) 2003-06-04
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BR9506312A (pt) 1997-08-05
WO1996005560A1 (en) 1996-02-22
HU9600945D0 (en) 1996-06-28
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EP0722586A1 (en) 1996-07-24
HU219644B (hu) 2001-06-28
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US5548519A (en) 1996-08-20
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FI961586A (fi) 1996-06-11
DE69524374D1 (de) 2002-01-17
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DE69524374T2 (de) 2002-05-23
AU685669B2 (en) 1998-01-22

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