MXPA97002636A - Apparatus and method for manufacturing clothing to the med - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention is a system and method for custom cutting and manufacturing garments using numerous test garments of different dimensions, predetermined to produce a finished product. A system is used to observe the number of test garments and each of its dimensions. When a consumer tries on one of these garments, a device associated with the system is used to collect consumer responses about the adjustment. If a test garment does not fit, the system suggests a following as evidence, according to pre-defined rules. When an adjustment of a particular test garment has been approved for purchase by the purchaser, this is reported to a manufacturing system, wherein a piece of a garment corresponding to the dimensions of the approved garment is cut, sew, treat and ship as a garment ends

Description

APPARATUS AND METHOD FOR MANUFACTURING CLOTHING CLOTHES TO THE MEASURE.

D E S C R I P C I N FIELD OF THE INVENTION This invention relates in general to the tailor-made manufacture of garments that are well suited to the people who wear them, and more particularly to an apparatus and method for manufacturing custom-cut garments that wear custom-made garments. and a garment adjustment system.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION For years, a basic problem in making garments that fit well into a cost-effective manufacturing system has been determined by how to capture dimensions of a person's body so that the piece of cloth can be constructed to sit ) good to that person and without undue expense to the manufacturer, retailer or consumer. Garments designed for three-dimensional objects such as a human body, can be complex in their manufacture, since changes in a dimension, such as increases or waist, in the case of pants, may require changes in the dimensions of the hips in order to ensure that they feel (fit) well. Many consumers, particularly ladies, have trouble finding garments that are manufactured or ready to use, in volume, such as denim jeans, to suit them. One reason for this is that the traditional sizing system for ladies used by large volume manufacturers is essentially a single dimension, developed in 1941. Based on statistical averages, the sizing system results in sizes represented as an abstract dimension, such as size 6 or size 8. Small variations have been added to this over time, to allow smaller or larger sizes but still with an abstract dimension within smaller or larger subclasses, such as size 6 small or size 6 long or short. Garment sizes for men such as pants, shirts and suits do not differ much, although the sizes of the shirts can be categorized with arm or neck length dimensions and a few combinations of common sizes. Generally speaking, the same is true for most other types or configurations of clothing such as footwear, gloves, coats, dresses and so on. Aungue is theoretically possible to store a large number of common variable sizes, in order to offer more options to a consumer, the costs of maintaining large inventories makes them prohibitive. Consequently, only a few common sizes are offered in most retail stores for consumers. Regardless of the above, it is precisely the same in the case of pants for ladies since there are literally thousands of combinations of hips, waists, increases and measures within the seam that are possible for a pair of jeans if you are going to want that feels good to a large population. Only a particular combination is likely to be a good fit for any given person. If some of the dimensions of a person are different from the statistical averages, the one that feels good to the garment will be difficult. If the waist size is narrower than the average or the consumer wants pants that have a shorter hem it will be difficult to feel a ready-to-wear garment. In a sample of 500 ladies who were measured in a survey, only 11 of the 500 or about 2% had exact measurements with the normal sizes of the industry. Therefore, many consumers rejected ready-to-wear clothing and returned to tailored fabrics. In order to make it sometimes custom-made, key dimensions of the body must be captured and then the garment constructed. To accomplish this, 4 traditional ways have been used in the past, which are: 1. Use an appointment to measure key dimensions of the person and then use those dimensions to build the garment. 2. Place the actual garment that the consumer will wear on the person and then make tailoring adjustment to that garment. 3. Wear an adjustable garment to capture body dimensions. 4. Use some selection of a mechanical, optical or video device to capture the dimensions of the body. The first two solutions used together constitute the tailor-made classic tailoring. Although in general for the production of a good fit the skilled work of the tailor or seamstress required the traditional hand fit, doing this is very expensive for the manufacturers and retailers of clothing that is ready for use and too expensive for many consumers. Garments or adjustable test patterns are already known in the art and have been used to address the problem. This may also require expert work at the retail site in order for appropriate adjustments to be made. Provided that only one adjustable garment or even several adjustable garments are worn in common sizes, a considerable amount of labor and expense also remains on the cutting and manufacturing side, as each garment shall be singularly cut to the adjusted dimensions of each consumer. The use of computers can speed up the collection of information that needs to be transmitted about the adjustments that must be made, but the unique cutting requirements are still costly and time consuming. Even when computers are used to create a scale pattern based on current measurements, the cost and time to singularly cut those dimensions usually remains significant. Materials such as denim, leather, vinyl or leather or other materials that are difficult to work, complicate the problem even more. If the garment is not cut successfully the first time, it may be prohibitively expensive to adjust so that it feels good to the consumer if it is unhappy with the current garment fit. Consequently, other improvements have been attempted in this area from the use of optical or electrical sensors and a computer to improve the accuracy of the measurements. In this type of scheme, the optical or electronic device is used to perceive and capture the measurements of a person's body. In a system, individual users of a special garment having measurement devices can be "read" by the system. This can be combined with a computer system such as one that creates or measures a special pattern based on those readings. Therefore, the measurements can be taken or made interactively and accurately, although each garment must be cut to the singular dimensions thus determined. Although this improves the accuracy and collection of information, it also does not solve the remaining problems and costs of singular cutting and assembly facing the manufacturer in volumes. Large-scale manufacturers can make as many as 60,000 or 70,000 pairs of pants in a week at factories around the world. Typically, costs have been kept low by the use of uniform sizes, which lower or eliminate the need for specially experienced work and special, specialized and on-track cutting. Tailor-made tailoring according to traditional methods is inconsistent with the manufacture of high volumes and low costs. Finally, there is a significant subjective element I (to the sensation of sitting well that varies from consumer to consumer.) For example, two consumers whose measurements are exactly the same, may have different tastes in relation (with it being loose or tighter, with one preferring a loose garment and the other preferring a tighter garment, or two consumers with identical measurements may differ in their style preferences, with one preferring to wear a pair of i pants with low hips and the other may prefer high hips. In order to conform to the subjective preferences of the clients, one or more of the other dimensions may need to be adjusted since they are interrelated.If only objective measurements are used for the tailor-made garment without a real fit, these elements Objectives can often cause a garment constructed solely from objective data to be returned by the consumer. Rejection or return is expensive for both manufacturers and retailers.

THE INVENTION The present invention is a system and method for custom cutting and manufacturing garments using numerous test garments of different dimensions, predetermined to make a finished product. A system is used to observe the number of test garments and each of its dimensions. When a consumer tries on one of these garments, a device associated with the system is used to collect the consumer's responses about the fit. If a test garment does not fit, the system suggests a following as evidence, according to pre-defined rules. When an adjustment of a particular test garment has been approved for purchase by the purchaser, this is reported to a manufacturing system, wherein a piece of a garment corresponding to the dimensions of the approved garment is cut, sew, process and ship as a finished garment. It is an object of the present invention to provide a method and apparatus for producing garments that fit well to size in large volumes without the high costs of traditional custom cut methods. Garments manufactured in accordance with the method and apparatus of the present invention can be constructed in volumes from one of numerous predetermined dimensions corresponding to the approved predetermined dimensions of a test garment currently selected and tested by the manufacturer. consumer. It is a further object of the present invention to provide retailers and warehouses with an easily usable system for collecting clothing fitting information to identify a particular approved test apparel for manufacture and sale. It is a feature of the present invention to allow buyers to actually try on a garment so that it fits them well before making the purchase order. It is an aspect of the present invention to allow a garment manufacturer to optimize the use of materials by providing predetermined dimensions that can be used to cut and manufacture finished garments. The arrangements for the various dimensions can be selected in advance, to ensure optimal use of the fabric, for example, and still providing a tailor-made fit.

It is another aspect of the present invention, which can be implemented in a number of types of systems, from manual or electronic devices for computerized systems. Still, another feature of the invention is to be able to collect adjustment information approved by the consumer and take this information to remotor manufacturing sites. Using the predetermined dimensions or corresponding codes, along with order and shipping information a retail seller can fill orders quickly for products or items that do not exist in the inventories. Yet another feature of the systems constructed in accordance with the present invention is that system rules are used for experts. When considering new types of garments, such as shirts or footwear, for example, appropriate rules can be developed and implemented to adjust them.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS Figure 1 is an illustrative front and side view of a test garment, shelves containing other test garments and a system for storing information about them for transmission to a manufacturing system, in accordance with the present invention. Figure 2 is a schematic drawing illustrating some types of garments that can be made using the present invention. The figure 3 is a front view of a series of shelves containing test garments. Figure 4 is a flow chart illustrating the main steps in the tested procedure. Figure 5 is a flow diagram illustrating detailed steps of part of the tested procedure. Figure 6 is a flow diagram showing another example of a possible step of detail in the test procedure. Figure 7 is a flow chart of the main logic of a system constructed in accordance with the present invention.

Figure 8 is an illustrative front perspective view of some possible embodiments of a system constructed in accordance with the present invention. Figure 9 is a front perspective view illustrating some types of input devices. Figure 10 is a flow chart of the steps used to determine the dimensions for use in the construction of a test garment, the number to make and the test rules. Figure 11 shows three examples of dimensions considered in a hypothetical test. Figure 12 is a schematic view of a touch screen interface of a device used to collect adjustment information in accordance with the present invention, illustrating a start screen. Figure 13 is a schematic view of a touch screen interface of. A device used to collect adjustment information in accordance with the present invention, which illustrates a screen showing options eliminated by adjustment responses from the prospective buyer. Figure 14 is a schematic view of a touch screen interface of a device used to collect adjustment information in accordance with the present invention, illustrating an alternative way of entering information of initial dimensions. Figure 15 is a schematic view of a touch screen interface of a device used to collect adjustment information in accordance with the present invention illustrating the results of two tests. Figure 16 is a schematic view of a touch screen interface of a device used to collect adjustment information in accordance with the present invention, illustrating options of hem length of a selected test garment. Figure 17 is a schematic view of a touch screen interface of a device used to collect adjustment information in accordance with the present invention, illustrating the final approval and purchase options. Figure 18 is a view of hybrid test garments of the present invention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS.

In Figure 1, a garment 10 is shown in the form of a pair of women's pants. As will be apparent to those skilled in the art, any number of different types of garments such as garments for humans or animals tailored or tailored for furniture or other objects capable of significant variations, may be made in accordance with the method and apparatus of the present invention. Illustrated is a side view 12 of a garment 10 of a ball, carrying a measuring device 14. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, a considerable number of test garments 10, each of which It has different dimensions, are kept in a retail store or sites in containers or hangers such as shelves 20. For ease of access, each bucket 30 of the shelf 20 contains a specific number of test garments. Here, 30 5 different 10 test garments are shown in a bucket. In this example, about 500 test garments are worn each with different dimensions from the others. In a preferred embodiment, they are ordinarily not used as inventory products, but are reserved for testing. Each garment 10 for testing is marked to identify it and to allow a user to distinguish it from all other test garments. The mark is more preferably provided in the form of a label carrying a computer-readable form, such as an explorable bar code. Alternatively, the mark can be made directly on the fabric of the test garment, preferably using a washable mark if the test garment so marked is intended to be sold to a consumer for use. This mark may conveniently contain information in relation to the dimensions of the test garment marked or also coded corresponding to a stored pattern that can be used to recreate a garment having the exact dimensions of the garment of dress test. The test garments should conform to a wide variety of body shapes. Normal grading processes produce garments that sit well on the ends of the size scales. For example, very small and very large garments produced using normal graduation processes can be adjusted so that they feel good (look good). We prefer to use a double-graduation process to create the pattern grid from which test garments and normal garments are constructed. In the double graduation process, grade or key points are identified and remain constant while the rest of the garment is normally graduated. For example, when baseline patterns are produced for tricks, we find that the key degree point is the waist. This remains constant, while the rest of the garment graduates. Then the resulting pattern becomes the base pattern for a normal graduation process used to create other patterns. The doubly graduated patterns that result can be used to create garments that fit better. In the preferred embodiment, the test garments 10 can be stored on shelves 20 in accordance with graduations in sizes of their dimensions. For example, for ladies 'pants, test garments 10 having a waist size of 24 can be stored in the first column of shelves' 20, with each bucket 30 retaining 5 pairs of the same hip size. Hip sizes increase incrementally by a predefined increase, for example, in pants by one inch for each bucket 30 of 5 clothing 10 test. Within a bucket 30, test garments 10 having 5 different magnification measurements are maintained for each particular waist / hip combination in this example. As will be shown, the method of the present invention is used to determine the number of test apparatuses 10 to be made for a store, together with its dimensions for a selected design and configuration of garments such as women's pants. As shown in Figure 2 and as indicated hereinbefore, the test garments, in some cases, may be provided with a measuring tape 14 fastened along one or more dimensions to allow easy measurement of a variable dimension. This is particularly useful when measuring dimensions that depend on the length, such as, for example, length of the inner seam in the trusses, length of the sleeves on the shirts and length of the hem on the shirts and reduces the total number of test garments that would be required otherwise. As shown in Figure 1, the system 40 is used within a retail store storing the dimensions of, or other identifying information, predetermined patterns corresponding to each of the test garments 10 of the shelves 20. Additional or terminal systems 42 can also be used. The patterns and their corresponding test garments form a grid of critical dimensions that change incrementally. For example, in trusses, the critical dimensions that form the grid are the waist, hips and increase. This forms a grid of 3-dimensional patterns that can vary by predetermined increments. Although preferred, it is not necessary to provide a test garment for each pattern stored in the system 40. The number of test garments can be reduced, without significantly reducing the ability to identify the best fit pattern, as much as A sufficient number of test garments are provided. For example, it will be possible to provide test apparel for each other incremental change in a critical dimension, rather than for each change in increment. In this situation, if a client looks at an appropriate fit in a pair of pants and accepts all dimensions except the waist, if the waist size on a test garment was slightly too small and the waist size in the The next largest test garment was slightly larger, the system will select the pattern that has a waist dimension that is between the first and second test garment. According to the method and apparatus of the present invention, critical measures are taken to the consumer. As indicated above, for example, if the garment that fits is a trusa, the critical initial measurements are waist, hips and distance between the top and the bottom. These critical measurements can be taken with any suitable measuring device, but are more preferably taken with an automatic digital tape measuring device which can be linked to the system 40 for automatic input of measurements. An example of that device is found in the patent application EUA S / N 08 / 428,671 filed on April 26, 1995, which is incorporated herein by reference. This device is beneficial because it practically reduces the possibility of erroneous data entry and because it is easy for an inexperienced worker to use it. The initial measurements are supplied to the system 40 that selects the test garment 10 that best suits the client to be tested. The client tests the selected garment 10 and reports information on how it is left to an employee to supply the system 40. For example, if you try denim jeans where the critical dimensions are waist, hips and distance from top to bottom, the customer It will report that the waist is too small, but that the hips and the distance between up and down are fine.

In a preferred embodiment, the cutting controller 60 will contain information about predefined patterns for cutting fabric parts, according to the exact dimensions of the test garment 10 approved by the consumer. Once cut, the fabric can be tracked by the manufacturing system 70. The manufacturing system 70 may include several subsystems, such as the QA lane system 80 (quality assurance) and the shipping system 90. After cutting, the fabric can be sewn into a sewing station 110, treated at treatment station 120, packed at station 123 and then shipped to the retail store or directly to the buyer by the boarding system 90. The system 40 can then look into the grille for the test garment having the same hips and distance from above, to below, although the next waist measurement will increase incrementally. This next garment test 10 is recommended and tested by the customer. The procedure for supplying feedback / consumer preferences in the system 40 and identifying another test garment is repeated until the adjustment has been approved by the purchaser. For garments having one or more variable dimensions, measured by a self-constructed measuring device, such as the tape measure 14, as shown in Figure 1, you can determine the appropriate length measurement by adjusting the length of the portion of the garment according to the client's preference and select the measurement of the tape. Hook and loop type fasteners, such as Velero (MR) fasteners, can be used to secure one end of the garment to a proper position so that the purchaser can see the length of adjustment of the portion of the garment. the garment to determine if the selected length is satisfactory. Then the measured dimension can be supplied to the system 40 which preferably identifies the pattern having the desired length or alternatively measures the pattern to the appropriate length. The approval of the measures can be indicated to the system 40 and furthermore lead to a server 50 having network and other address information stored on a disks or other storage devices 52. The exact pattern dimensions corresponding to a test garment 10 and approved by the consumer can then be transmitted to the cutting controller 60 in a manufacturing facility or to a pattern printer (not shown) for the generation of a pattern in paper.

Turning now to Figure 2, we present some types of clothing 10 test. The test garment 10 is shown here as a pair of ladies' pants, having predetermined hip dimensions 10a, waist 10b and distance from top to bottom 10c. In a preferred embodiment, the distance from top to bottom is measured as the distance between the crotch and the waist of a pair of pants, from front to back. If the distance is shorter, the waist will be placed lower on the user. If the distance is higher, the waist will be higher in the user. Still in Figure 2, a garment of another type of configuration is illustrated as a shirt 13. Similarly, footwear, such as boots 17 or other tight clothing such as wl8 gloves, can be manufactured in accordance with the method and apparatus of the present invention. Again in Figure 2, an lOx pattern is shown having several parts or work pieces lOz. Each part can be marked with a llOy code corresponding to the same dimensions as the particular test item 10. As indicated above, for test garments, the code marked on the patterned parts may be provided on a label or be directly marked on the patterned parts and the code itself may comprise computer readable marks., such as a searchable barcode. Also in Figure 2, a side view 12 of the test garment 10 is shown, with a measurement device 14 attached to an outer leg. In a preferred embodiment, the device 14 is marked with the permissible dimensions for an internal seam stretch for a pair of pants. Turning now to Figure 3, it can be seen that each cube 30 of shelves 20 contains 5 test garments 10, all of which have the same measurements of ^ 5 hip 10a and waist 10b, but each has a distance measurement from top to bottom 10c different. Therefore, in this illustration of a preferred embodiment of the invention, almost 500 different pairs of garments are used to determine the fit 10 test. In a preferred embodiment, for each waist, hip and distance combination from top to bottom, there are at least 9 possible lengths for internal seam or hem. Therefore, it is used to produce a finished garment a matrix of several thousand combinations or sizes' of different body dimension.

Referring now to Figure 4, the method and apparatus used to determine the adjustment in a process flow diagram in a retail store are shown. After a customer has entered the store, in stage AO, a sales employee can measure the customer in stage Al or alternatively, ask the customer him or her their common size. Then, in step A12, the information of the client's 10a, waist 10b and top-down distance 10c is supplied to the system, using the data collected from the client. In step A3, the system will suggest that a specific test garment 10 be tested. In the situation when there are hundreds or thousands of testers, the employee typically gives the specific test garment 10 suggested by the system shown here as step A4. After the client tests the garment 10, if he wants the proper fit, the test garment 10 as indicated in the All stage, the employee proceeds to the step AÍ3, to capture information about the the hem lengths or inner seam tape measures and then supply an order to the system in stage al4. Still in FIG. 4, if the client desires modifications, as illustrated in step A5, such as looser waist or hips c a higher or lower up-down distance, these modifications are indicated to the system in step A6. by the employee.

Using predetermined rules, the system recommends in step A7, that a new garment 10 be tested, having the dimensions that most closely approximate those indicated as desirable. The employee provides the new test garment 10 in step A8 and the customer is tested in step A9. If the customer wants the proper fit of the test garment 10 (step A12), steps A13 and A14 are performed. If not, and the client desires further modifications, as shown in step A10, steps A6-A10 are repeated, until the client either approves the item of clothing test or decide not to buy (DNP). In Figure 5, a more detailed view of the operation of some of the steps of the present invention is shown in a flow chart. Here at step B0, a client has tried a garment that is a pair of pants and wants more space in the sitting area.With predetermined rules, the system suggests expanding the measurements of the hip 10a, in the stage Bl.If this new test garment 10 adjusts (step B2) the employee proceeds to step A13 in figure 4 above to collect additional information.

Returning to Figure 5, if the new test garment 10 does not adjust, the system suggests again expanding the measurements of the hip 10a and will still suggest another test garment 10, having these new dimensions in stage B3 . In step B4, the fit of this test garment 10 is verified. If it does not adjust, the system proceeds to step B5 to see if there is a reasonable fashion limit. For example, although hundreds or thousands of garments can be defined by the present invention, a particular manufacturer may decide that it is not economically possible to have proof to sell garments having certain dimensions. These fashion limits can be included in the system. The system may suggest an alternative game of test garment 10, such as one having a top-to-bottom workshop distance 10c, as indicated in step B6. It is possible that, as may be suggested in step B6, a larger waist 10b may be suggested with a clothing item 10 that will fit the customer and that is still within the fashion limits imposed by the manufacturer. If the new test garment 10 sits well, (step B7) the system instructs the employee to go to step A13. If not, another suggestion can be made in stage B8, namely starting with a larger waist. In Figure 6, another set of variations in the procedure is shown in which the client wants pants with the longest "shot" on her hips (stage CO). The inventive invention will suggest a shorter up-down distance, first in the Cl stage and will continue until a fashionable limit is reached in the C5 stage. If the garment 10 of test still does not adjust, the system will suggest a larger waist, as shown in step C6. The process is continued until the garment is approved, or the client decides not to buy. With reference now to Figure 1, a IB full flow diagram of the logic of a preferred embodiment. Assuming the customer tests a pair of garments 10 in the DO stage, the system checks for adjustment in the DI stage. If that 20 test garment fits and the client wishes to order, the order is taken in step D2. If that garment does not adjust, the system checks to see if the waist size was approved by the client in D3. If not, a following verification is done to see if it 2b has reached the limit of waist fashion in stage D4. If the answer is yes, the system will check to see if it is possible to suggest either a hip 10a or a top-to-bottom distance 10c in step D5. If so, a different garment 10 will be suggested. If not, other options are not possible and the system proceeds to DB to collect the non-purchase information in step 16. Note that when the system determines that options are no longer available in one or more of the dimensions, these selections are disabled so that the user can no longer select. Still in Figure 7, if a waist limit was not reached, the process proceeds to step D7, to see if the hip dimensions 10a, "were approved." A process similar to that described for the waist dimensions, If the size selection is still possible, the system will ask if the top-to-bottom length 10c of the current test garment 10 is approved, in step Dll, if not, it will be done in steps D8, D9 and DIO. check the limits and remaining selections in steps D12 and DI3.The system continues to disable those options that it has determined are no longer available.Finally, still in figure7, in the -D15 stage, the system 'checks to see if any The dimensional option can still be suggested, if a proven garment has not yet been approved 10. If there is any remaining, the system proceeds to step D17 to suggest it and the client can rehearse with that proof. to 8, it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that the method and apparatus of the present invention can be implemented in a variety of ways. For example, a manual system may use a card file 41, together with an instruction manual or sheet to go through the logic illustrated in the previous figure. Alternatively, an electronic device 42, such as a dedicated palmtop device similar to a preprogrammed electronic calculator, may be used. Any of these can be used in conjunction with a fax machine 43 or a modem 44, to carry the adjustment information to a manufacturing system. Still in Figure 8, an activated voice system or device 45 may be connected to a computer system 40 for implementing the invention. Turning now to FIG. 9, a preferred embodiment of the present invention using an interactive touch screen 40c is shown. A simpler screen device 40b can also be used with a keyboard. In a preferred embodiment, a touch screen 40c is aooplated to a system 40 and a keyboard. In a preferred embodiment, a personal computer system is used as an indusutrial, with a touch-sensitive keyboard and screen. The personal computer is programmed into Visual Basic to create the user-friendly interface, but as will be apparent to those skilled in the art, any of a number of computer systems, such as "laptops", mainframes, minicomputers, can be used. parallel processors, neural networks, etc. Similarly, any one of a number of existing programming languages that allow to create a graphic user interface or a voice interface or other interface that is simple and easy for either an employee or a customer can be used. A preferred embodiment, stores and gives access to dimensional information in a matrix or table for access to it. The logical flows illustrated above can be implemented in any number of ways to access that information, including software, firmware, hardware, etc. Referring now to Figure 10, the method used by the present invention to determine quantities and dimensions of test garments 10 is shown. The flow diagram indicates that a design and configuration of the garment has been selected in step E0. In a preferred embodiment, this configuration is a lady pants. Although it should be clear to those skilled in the art that shirts, gloves, footwear or any other type of custom garment can be selected. Then, in the El stage, a population sample is selected. The size of this will depend on the type of garment configuration selected. In a preferred embodiment, measurements of approximately 1,300 individuals were used. In step E2, these measurements are considered either from individuals who have been measured for the first time or if there are any databases that may be important, of those. In a preferred embodiment, actual measurements are taken of at least a subset of the sample, so that an expert can observe that differences in the dimensions of these individuals have also to be detected. For example, in a preferred embodiment, it was found that ladies who measured pants of different dimensions, were usually unable to detect differences of less than one inch at the waist 10b or dimensions of the hip 10a. However, most of the measured ladies were able to detect differences as small as half an inch for the dimensions from top to bottom 10c. These observations were made in step E3 and were used in step E4, along with any important information about the limits of the fashion to generate rules for selecting test garments 10 in step E4. The information is also used to decide in stage E5 how many test garments 10 should be made and in step E6, how many patterns, if any. It will be noted that although patterns are worn with the test garments 10 in a preferred embodiment, it is possible that other garments such as molded or formed test garments 10 may not require patterns. Turning now to Figure 11, an illustration of the selection process according to the method and apparatus of the present invention is given. In the diagrams HA, 11B and 11C the dimensions of the waist 10b, hip 10a and distance from top to bottom 10c are shown for a pair of trousers, together with possible lengths 14a, inner seam or hem. The examples shown in Figure 11 are examples illustrated from the perspective of the employee operating a device associated with the system in Figures 12 to 17 below. Returning to Figure 12, where a touch screen of a pre-assigned embodiment is shown, illustrates a number of "button" options. Buttons 205, 210 and 215 indicate that the employee has supplied the name of a prospective buyer (Amy Sraith) and the employee's initials (bp). In a preferred embodiment of the invention the employee measures the client and supplies their dimensions, here shown as button 220 with a waist value of 29, button 225 with a hip measurement of 42 and a button 230 with a length of up to down of 25 1/2. Button 235 can be used to indicate that the customer has not purchased anything. The button 240 can be selected to return to a previous screen and the button 245 can be used if the employee wishes to start over.

Now, in Figure 13, a screen with a button 300 is displayed showing the measurements taken by the employee and a list 320 of test garments, showing a sample of test clothing 10 that has been suggested. Figure 14 shows an alternative way of supplying dimensions if no action was taken. Either the employee or prospective buyer can supply the normal size of the buyer from a table 223. The selected size is translated by the system to the dimensions of a test garment 10 to suggest.

Returning to Figure 13, buttons having shaded portions 337 are shown. These options or dimension selections have been disabled by the system, after the client has reported that some of the dimensions do not adjust. Those buttons 360-380 that have no shaded portion, are the remaining options. Figure 15 shows the screen options presented after a test garment 10 has been tested. Figure 16 illustrates incorporating the measures of hem length or internal seam, after a test garment 10 has been selected. Here, the client wants internal sewing 28 on the button 280. Figure 17 shows a screen that can be used after all dimensions have been approved. If the client wishes to approve-, press button 383, to call order information screens, if desired. Button 385 can be used to call screens for shipping information for use by the manufacturing system. And, still in figure 17, you can select the payment methods, with the button 990.

The above-described system can be easily adapted to a wide variety of clothing styles and finishes without having to provide test apparel for each style and finish. The customer can express preferences to two different styles, with the same number of test garments used for a single style, providing hybrid test garments where the garment is divided into two halves, preferably along of a bilateral or symmetrical axis 400 as shown in Figure 18, so that one half of the test garment is of one style and the other half of the test garment is of another style. Therefore, the customer can locate the best custom cut or adjustment for length as described above and then look in the mirror on one side for the first style and choose between the two. For example, pants can come in a variety of styles including a tapered leg style and a style over the boot. To allow a client to visualize how they will look in both styles, hybrid test garments can be constructed as shown in Figure 18 having the conical leg 402 and a leg 404 over the flared boot. Similarly, a hybrid test shirt having a normal 406 sleeve and a complete 408 sleeve can be constructed. When locating the test garment that is best using the method described in detail before and adjusting the length of the hem, customers can see themselves in a mirror to select which of the two different styles they prefer. A variety of fabrics can also be selected by the client once the appropriate measurement has been achieved. NeverthelessIt is well known that different fabrics have different shrinkage characteristics, depending on the manufacturing variables, including type of dye, certain type, type of fall and type of yarn. Denim fabric, for example, is particularly susceptible to shrinkage. According to the above, the patterns should take into account the shrinkage that is normally expected for a particular fabric and finish. There will be a lot of time and expense to create a grid of patterns of each type of fabric selectable by a customer. In accordance with the above, we believe that it will be preferable to create a grid of base patterns that are scored with pattern points that can be adjusted after the garment is achieved and the pattern corresponding to the test garment is identified. selected Therefore the pattern can be measured to scale to compensate for the subsequent shrinkage that is known to occur when the fabric is sewn through the finishing process, for example, stone wash, bleached, dyed or the like to produce the finished product . Any scaling or adaptation program of conventional pattern can be used to adapt the base patterns and compensate the shrinkage. Those skilled in the art will appreciate that the embodiments described above are only illustrative and that other systems in the spirit of the teachings herein fall within the scope of the invention.

Claims (20)

R E I V I N D I C A C I O N S

1. - A test garment for use with a consumer tailoring and manufacturing system, which has a means for storing predetermined garment patterns, each test garment corresponds to a unique predetermined garment pattern, this The test garment comprises: a plurality of work pieces of predetermined dimensions stitched together and finished to form a garment having critical dimensions of predetermined size or size; and a mark for identifying the critical dimensions of the test garment and for ligating the test garment to a corresponding unique garment pattern stored in the client's tailoring and manufacturing system.

2. - Test garment according to clause 1, characterized in that it also includes a variable dimension and a measuring device fastened along the variable dimension, to measure the variable dimension after it has been adjusted to a preference of the client or consumer.

3. - Test garment according to clause 2, characterized in that the variable dimension is selected from the group consisting of inner seam length, sleeve length and hem length.

4. - Test garment according to clause 2, characterized in that it additionally includes a means for adjusting and securing the variable dimension in a desired position for measurement.

5. - Test garment according to clause 4, characterized in that the means to secure is a fastener of the type of loop.

6. - Test garment according to clause 1, characterized in that the garment has a bilateral axis that forms a first half and a second half of the test garment; where the first half is built with a first style and the second half is built with a second style and the first style is different from the second style.

7. - Test garment according to clause 1, characterized in that the dimensions of the work pieces are calculated using a conventional scale or adaptation system and a two-stage procedure in which a point of degree of key is kept constant and the remaining dimensions are normally graded to form a base pattern followed by the normal adequacy of the base pattern to form a pattern for the work pieces used to construct the test garment.

8. - An apparatus for tailoring and manufacturing a garment for customers or consumers of a selected design and configuration, comprising: a plurality of test garments, each of which has predetermined dimensions that differ from the dimensions of each of the other test garments; a system to store and access the predetermined dimensions of each of the test garments, to supply the critical dimensions of a prospective buyer, these critical dimensions are predetermined by the type of test garment, to identify garments of test dress that are to be tested by the prospect purchaser, to collect the relative fit information of each tested test garment or the prospective purchaser and to report the predetermined final dimensions already approved for manufacturing.

9. Apparatus according to clause 8, characterized in that it additionally comprises a measuring device for initially capturing the critical dimensions of the buyer prospect.

10. Apparatus according to clause 9, characterized in that the measuring device is linked to and communicates automatically with the system.

11. Apparatus according to clause 8, characterized in that each test garment is marked to distinguish it from any other test garment.

12. Apparatus according to clause 11, wherein each test garment is marked with a bar code.

13. Apparatus according to clause 8, characterized in that each test garment has a first half and a second half, the first half is constructed with a first style and the second half is constructed with a second style and the first style is different of the second style.

14. Apparatus according to clause 8, characterized in that each test garment includes a variable variable dimension on the prospective purchaser after an acceptable fit has been obtained for all other critical dimensions, and a built-in measuring device.

15. Apparatus according to clause 14, characterized in that the variable dimension is selected from the group consisting of internal sewing length, sleeve length and hem length.

16. Apparatus according to clause 8, characterized in that the predetermined dimensions of each test garment corresponds to each test garment.

17. Apparatus according to clause 16, characterized in that it additionally includes a means for measuring or scaling the patterns and data to control the mentioned medium,

18. - Apparatus according to clause 17, characterized in that the data related to the expected shrinkage that the garment will suffer depending on the fabric and the finish selected by the buyer prospect, the means of scale or measurement respond to that data to scale the patterns and compensate for the shrinkage of the selected fabric during finishing.

19. Apparatus according to clause 8, characterized in that it additionally includes means for transmitting data related to an accepted test garment to a manufacturing facility for use in manufacturing the selected dress test.

20. Apparatus according to clause 19, characterized in that the data is received by a cutting machine to cut the work pieces of fabric and build the garment. SUMMARY The present invention is a system and method for custom cutting and manufacturing garments using numerous test garments of different dimensions, predetermined to make a finished product. A system is used to observe the number of test garments and each of its dimensions. When a consumer tries on one of these garments, a device associated with the system is used to collect consumer responses about the adjustment. If a test garment does not fit, the system suggests a following as evidence, according to pre-defined rules. When an adjustment of a particular test garment has been approved for purchase by the purchaser, this is reported to a manufacturing system, wherein a piece of a garment corresponding to the dimensions of the approved garment is cut, sew, process and ship as a finished garment.