EP0375524A1 - Procédés de fabrication automatique de produits en feuilles souples constitués de plusieurs pièces assemblées tels que des vêtements ou sous-vêtements ainsi que dispositifs pour la mise en oeuvre de ces procédés - Google Patents

Procédés de fabrication automatique de produits en feuilles souples constitués de plusieurs pièces assemblées tels que des vêtements ou sous-vêtements ainsi que dispositifs pour la mise en oeuvre de ces procédés Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0375524A1
EP0375524A1 EP89403508A EP89403508A EP0375524A1 EP 0375524 A1 EP0375524 A1 EP 0375524A1 EP 89403508 A EP89403508 A EP 89403508A EP 89403508 A EP89403508 A EP 89403508A EP 0375524 A1 EP0375524 A1 EP 0375524A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
fabric
belts
needles
piece
belt
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP89403508A
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German (de)
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Jean-Guy Périllat
Olivier Chez Monsieur Jacquet Flach
Christophe Elouard
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
MIIVAR ZAC DE PENESSUY
Original Assignee
MIIVAR ZAC DE PENESSUY
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by MIIVAR ZAC DE PENESSUY filed Critical MIIVAR ZAC DE PENESSUY
Publication of EP0375524A1 publication Critical patent/EP0375524A1/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H42/00—Multi-step production lines for making clothes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B33/00—Devices incorporated in sewing machines for supplying or removing the work

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the automatic manufacture of products in flexible sheets such as for example clothing or underwear made up of pieces of fabric cut and assembled by sewing.
  • the present invention relates to a set of methods and device which allow such complete automation, the installation according to the present invention making it possible to produce, in the example produced, women's panties every 5 seconds and this in all sizes and with fabrics. having no rigidity.
  • the pieces are cut in a single thickness by means of a laser cutter, the fabric being unwound on a loop conveyor comprising a plurality of vacuum chambers to ensure its maintenance and good flatness of the fabric, .
  • a loop conveyor comprising a plurality of vacuum chambers to ensure its maintenance and good flatness of the fabric
  • the laser cutting system and the unloading means are programmed and controlled by a computer system so that each unloading means always takes the same part and always places it in the same position on the corresponding conveyor.
  • the invention is for example implemented for the manufacture of female briefs which are in four pieces: back, front, bottom and double bottom, the last piece can be made of a fabric of different texture.
  • the first three pieces (back, front, bottom) are cut from the same roll of fabric and each placed on its own belt and needle conveyor, the fourth (double bottom) being cut apart by any suitable means (for example cookie cutter) and deposited on a needle conveyor of the same type as the other three.
  • One of the essential characteristics of the process is that, whatever the size of the undergarment during manufacture, it will always be handled by gripping means always taking it in the same areas, which requires that these areas be throughout of the process spaced from each other by constant distances, less than the minimum distances corresponding to the smallest size so that the fabric is never under tension which would cause deformation of the fabric.
  • the invention therefore provides a special method of gripping the pieces of fabric after cutting them to transfer them to the needle conveyors.
  • This process consists of: - to lift the piece of fabric cut by laser and held by vacuum to make it pass through several needles, these needles being placed relative to each other so as to define a polygon comprising the "n" gripping zones, the distances between the vertices of the polygon being variable for gripping the pieces close to the seam paths, - the pieces are transferred onto "m" parallel belts carrying upwardly turned needles, arranged in a polygon, which is superimposed thereon so that the gripping needles come exactly in correspondence with those of the belts, the piece of fabric being transferred to these needles.
  • the invention therefore relates to a method of handling pieces of fabric to be joined together according to which said pieces of fabric are transported on belt conveyors provided with needles on which the pieces of fabric are inserted and according to which the pieces of fabric are transferred from a conveyor to the other by bringing said belts opposite, in an inverted position, the needles of one and the other being in coincidence, the needle belt conveyor carrying the piece of fabric being next to the belt conveyor on which the tissue must be transferred; the passage of the needles from one to the needles of the other being caused by a fabric guide and / or by blowing or suction.
  • a piece of fabric comprising a back and a front assembled to each other by a bottom and possibly a double bottom, the assembly being deployed. flat and carried by two parallel belts by four fixing zones constituting the four vertices of a polygon, the distances between the vertices being less than the minimum distances corresponding to the smallest size, this part is then transferred to a support member with four arms, each arm being provided with gripping means coming to take the tissue exactly at the place where it is carried by the needles of the belts, -
  • the carrier member presents the piece of fabric in front of the fixed head of a sewing machine intended to sew an elastic band and controlled by means which make the fabric pass under the sewing head according to a predetermined trajectory; so that an elastic band is sewn along the sides of the piece of fabric corresponding to the two leg openings and the waist opening, the excess fabric being cut by a knife located next to the presser foot, - the movement of the carrier member being controlled by a programmer having received in memory the indications
  • the invention also relates to devices for implementing the above-mentioned method or methods and in particular an installation comprising: - "x" cutting stations each associated with a gripping device which deposits the cut pieces on belt conveyors provided with fixing needles, - a series of assembly stations in which the belts cross and / or overlap to assemble the parts which are then sewn, - a deployment station in which the assembled part is deployed and carried by two or more parallel needle belts, - a workstation for gripping the part deployed by a support member with multiple arms, said arm being carried by a structure allowing it to move in a planar movement in order to scroll the edge of the fabric in front of elasticizing stations comprising a machine sew with fixed head which poses an elastic and sews it, - "y” elasticization stations, - "j” sewing stations on the assembled sides, - a garment turning station.
  • Figure 1 shows a complete installation, comprising, arranged in a U all the stations necessary for the implementation of the process of automatic manufacture of panties in four pieces.
  • area A is the roll of fabric 1 from which we must make the garment which, in the example shown is a woman's panties.
  • the fabric of the roll 1 is unwound by a drive roller 2 and a looping device 3 of known type which aims to absorb the jolts in the unwinding of the fabric.
  • the unrolled fabric is placed on a conveyor 4 in a closed loop which comprises a plurality of parallel boxes 5, placed side by side and held in slight depression over the entire length of its upper strand so that the fabric remains stationary during the operation of cutting and gripping operations.
  • the cutting is carried out by a laser cutting member 6 which is carried by a traveling bridge, constituted by a cross-member 7 carried by two end supports 7a moving on two parallel rails 7b.
  • the movements of the laser cutting member 6 along the beam 7 and along the rails 7b are controlled by a computer system so as to cut the pieces "back" (Ds), "front” (Dv) and " bottom “(F) with as few losses as possible.
  • Ds back
  • Dv front
  • F bottom
  • Each unloading station is specialized, that is to say that the station C1 unloads only the back pieces (Ds), the station C2 only discharges the bottom pieces (F) and station C3 only discharges the front pieces (Dv).
  • Each unloading station includes a gripping member 8, 9, 10 carried by an overhead crane 11, 12, 13 respectively.
  • the traveling cranes 11, 12, 13 are of the same nature as the traveling crane 7 and the movements of the gripping members 8, 9, 10 and the traveling cranes 11, 12, 13 are controlled by the central computer system according to the program of cutting.
  • FIGS 4 to 6 illustrate the constitution and operation of the gripping members 8, 9 and 10.
  • Each gripping member consists of a hollow box 14, connected by a flexible pipe 15, for example a bellows pipe, to a source of depression producing a greater depression than that prevailing in the boxes 5 of the conveyor 4.
  • the box 15 is closed at its base by an elastic movable pallet 16, fixed at one of its ends to the box 15 and free at its other end which is provided with a tubular orifice 17 traversed by a needle 18 fixed to the bottom of the box.
  • the lower end of the tubular orifice 17 is provided with a grid 19.
  • this device is as follows: the gripping member 8, 9 or 10 is brought above the part to be grasped, for example the back Ds by its traveling crane 11, 12 or 13 as shown in FIG. 4; then the box 15 is placed under vacuum, which locally sucks the piece Ds which comes against the grid 19, thus partially blocking the orifice 17 so that the elastic pallet 16 moves upwards so that the needle 18 passes through the fabric, as illustrated in FIG. 5; then the part Ds, being gripped simultaneously by several gripping members, is completely raised as shown in FIG. 6.
  • Each unloading device 8, 9 and 10 comprises several gripping members such as that described in FIGS.
  • the gripping zones thus defined are immutable, that is to say that throughout the process the part will always be taken from the same zones, possibly these will be eliminated as the process advances when 'they will become useless.
  • the overhead traveling cranes 11, 12 and 13 deposit the pieces seized on the belt and needle conveyors 20, 21, 22; the conveyors 20 and 22 comprising three needle belts and the conveyor 21 comprising only two.
  • Figures 7 and 8 show two embodiments of the needle belts of which the conveyors are made.
  • the belt is a toothed belt 23, or any other system allowing indexing in position of the hands (in order to avoid any slipping which would cause an offset) comprising an axial strip in relief 24 provided with fixing pins 25 on which are fixed one or more support blocks 26 laterally carrying at least two needles 27 bent at 90 °, the horizontal base 27a of the needles being in the same plane as the core 23a of the belt 23, so that the distance between the elbow of the needles 27 remains substantially invariable even when the belt 23 is wound on a pulley.
  • FIG. 1 the belt is a toothed belt 23, or any other system allowing indexing in position of the hands (in order to avoid any slipping which would cause an offset) comprising an axial strip in relief 24 provided with fixing pins 25 on which are fixed one or more support blocks 26 laterally carrying at least two needles 27 bent at 90 °, the horizontal base 27a of the needles being in the same plane as the core
  • the toothed belt 23 includes fixing studs 28 in the form of a dovetail pin whose axis is transverse to that of the belt 23; on these studs 28 are fitted support blocks 29 provided with dovetail mortise, these support blocks 29 carrying four needles 30.
  • the support 26 carries two L-shaped needles and in the example shown in FIG. 8, the support 29 carries four needles 30, but it should be noted that the invention is not limited to these examples, said supports 26 and 29 can carry at least one needle and this number can be arbitrary.
  • FIG. 9 illustrates the conveyor 22 carrying a front piece Dv by means of three needle belts 23.
  • the base of the piece Dv is fixed to two pairs of needles 27 while the two sides are each fixed to two sets of four needles 30.
  • the dotted line 31 represents the exact surface of the piece Dv of the finished panties, the areas of implantation of the needles 27 and 30 being outside this surface.
  • the belts 23 are parallel to each other. This is so when the part simply has to be transported from one station to another. However, according to one of the characteristics of the invention, it is possible by moving them relatively to one another to operate a certain number of handling operations. So, for example Figure 10 illustrates schematically a folding operation.
  • FIG. 10 is broken down into three views: FIG. 10a a side elevation view, FIG. 10b a plan view, FIG. 10c a sectional view; the piece of fabric F, for example, being shown only in FIG. 10C and the belts 23 and 23 ′ moving in the direction of the arrow f.
  • the two belts are parallel in the same horizontal plane; then, position II, the belt 23 ′ is lifted while approaching the belt 23; in position III the belt 23 ′ is at its maximum high position and passes over the belt 23 which it crosses; in position IV the belt 23 ′ has come down slightly, it is always higher than the belt 23 but it has passed to the other side so that the part F is folded back.
  • FIG. 11 illustrates the transfer of any piece "p" from an upper conveyor 23s to a lower conveyor 23i, the piece “p” being held by two needles "a".
  • the two conveyors 23s and 23i are wound on guide pulleys 32 so that the needles "a" of the upper conveyor 23s are directed downwards and those of the lower conveyor 23i are directed upwards, while being in exact coincidence.
  • a support guide 33 prevents the part "p” from falling in the part of the path of the conveyor 23s where the needles "a” although directed downwards must continue to transport the part.
  • the end 33a of the guide 33 moves away so that the part "p" detaches from the needles of the conveyor 23s to come to be pricked on the needles of the conveyor 23i.
  • a transfer guide 34 can be placed which applies the part "p” to the needles of the conveyor 23i and / or small air jets which blow the part "p” onto said needles.
  • the running speeds of the two conveyors 23s and 23i must be very exactly synchronized. It is also necessary that the needles of one and the other are in exact coincidence so that the parts are always gripped in exactly the same gripping zones.
  • FIG. 13 illustrates an operation of transfer with superposition of any two pieces called for the example "p1" and "p2".
  • the conveyor 23s is wound on guide pulleys 32 so that its needles "a” appear facing downwards in exact coincidence with the needles "a" of the lower conveyor 23i which are , them, directed upwards.
  • the needles of the conveyor 23s transport a piece p1 and those of the conveyor 23i transport a piece p2; in the zone where the needles of one and the other come into coincidence, a transfer guide (and / or air jets) detaches the part p1 from the needles of the conveyor 23s and presses it onto the needles of the conveyor 23i so that the two parts are superimposed on the needles "a" of the conveyor 23i.
  • FIGS. 10 to 14 there has been represented theoretically and by way of example the various operations for handling pieces of fabric which are made possible by the conveyor belts and needles;
  • Figure 15 illustrates, from bottom to top, the different phases of the stitching assembly of the four pieces (Ds, Dv, F, Df) constituting a slip.
  • position I there is shown the conveyor carrying the double bottom Df, the left belt pivoting on itself to properly hold the part Df; in position II, the superposition of the back, Ds, has been shown on Df, the base of Ds being placed in coincidence with the corresponding end of F, the part Dv being brought close; in position III, we see that the part Dv was first turned 180 ° by conjugate movement of the two belts and then that one of these belts was again turned 180 ° so that the base of Dv is turned towards the top ; in position IV, the bottom F has been brought so that one of its ends is in coincidence with the inverted end of Dv and that its other end is in coincidence with the edges of Ds and Df already put in coincidence in II .
  • phase I to IV correspond to zone E of FIG. 1.
  • position V zone F of FIG. 1
  • the edges are sewn in coincidence of Df, Ds and F, the stationary sewing machine being able to be provided with a knife which removes excess tissue; after the first seam the piece Df is deployed from below as illustrated in position VI; in position VII, the superimposed pieces Dv and F are brought into superposition with the other end of Df and transferred thereon and in position VIII, we proceed to the second seam, after which, the assembly is deployed in position IX.
  • This assembly is shown in plan in FIG. 16.
  • the line bearing the reference 35 corresponds to the largest size and the line 36 corresponds to the smallest;
  • the first seam (in position V, figure 15) is indicated by the reference 37
  • the second seam (position VIII) is indicated by the reference 38;
  • the references 39 indicate the gripping zones either by means of the needles 18, or by means of the needles 29-30 or by means of the gripping device which will be described below.
  • the zones 39 are not represented in the same position along the line 35 or 36 so as to illustrate the difference of the lines; however, and this is a characteristic of the invention, the spacing of the last two needle belts 23 which carry the deployed part is such that it corresponds to the layout 36, the fabric not being stretched. thus, when the needle conveyor carries larger pieces, the zones 39 are always in the same relative position and the fabric is looser.
  • Figures 15 and 16 describe the particular case of the assembly of four pieces intended to constitute a panty, but the invention is not limited to this particular case: the assembly may include more or less than four pieces, be worn by more than two belts and constitute a polygon of more than four vertices.
  • the invention is not limited to the operatin for applying an elastic band, but relates to the installation of any added element such as a braid, lace or the like.
  • the part is gripped by a multi-arm gripping member which takes it in the zones 39 and which spreads it according to its size (station J, FIG. 1).
  • this multi-arm gripping member will hereinafter be designated by the term "spider”. Lighting of the room spread by the spider to its exact shape casts the shadow of the room on a frosted glass.
  • an optical reader establishes a computerized image of the periphery of the room.
  • the system computerized central established a contour difference between the real image of the part and the ideal programmed image of removal of the elastic. Then, at the various M stations, the workpiece will be guided in front of the fixed head of a machine to pose and sew the elastic both by the movement of the spider and by an adjustable wheel located in the immediate vicinity of the presser foot. the machine, this wheel being guided so as to correct the error observed at all times by an optical sight between the distance between the edge of the fabric and the laying pattern of the elastic previously memorized at station K and the actual distance between the edge of the fabric and its actual presentation under the crowbar.
  • FIGS 17 and 18 partially illustrate the gripping and general guide member called "spider”.
  • this member comprises a central body 40 carried by a shaft 41 which can pivot about an axis 42.
  • Said shaft 41 is carried by a support which can move along two perpendicular axes so that the body can move along a predefined plane path.
  • the shaft 41 can also be raised or lowered.
  • the body 40 carries four arms so as to take the part by the four places where the points 39 are located.
  • the four arms are doubled so that the spider can adapt to all sizes and shapes.
  • the body 40 carries four superimposed Y-shaped arms 43 and 44 which are carried by sliding rods 45 and 46 so as to be able to move away from the body 40; moreover, each end of the arms of the Y-arms carries sliding rods 47 and 48 carrying legs 49 and 50.
  • the legs 49 and 50 are bent at 90 ° at their lower end and have a slot 51 in which a hook moves 52 capable of tilting about an axis 53 under the effect of a control member 54 ( Figure 18).
  • the rods 45, 46, 47, 48 and the member 54 are actuated in pain, but any other suitable system can be used.
  • the movements of the arms 43 and 44 as well as of the shaft 41 are controlled by the central computerized system.
  • the arms 43 and 44 are actuated so that the legs 49 and 50 are brought into the position corresponding to the points 39 of the layout 36; then the body 40 is lowered until the horizontal parts of the legs 49 and 50 are in contact with the tissues and the hooks 53 are tilted so as to prick themselves in the tissue (station J) then the spider is lifted and brought to station K. In this position, the Y-shaped arms are spread apart so that the assembled part is placed almost flat, but without being tensioned.
  • the shaft 41 which carries the spider can, to move in the horizontal plane, be carried by a device such as an overhead crane or, as shown in FIG. 19, by two conjugated arms 55 and 56 provided with pulleys and belts or any other rotation device for pivoting the shaft 41 about its axis 42.
  • a device such as an overhead crane or, as shown in FIG. 19, by two conjugated arms 55 and 56 provided with pulleys and belts or any other rotation device for pivoting the shaft 41 about its axis 42.
  • the different positions of the piece of fabric at the different stations K, M1 have been shown diagrammatically, which corresponds to the elasticity of the first thigh, M2 at the elasticization of the second thigh, M3 at the elastic at the back and M4 at the elastic at the front.
  • the tree 41 and the piece of fabric are represented and represented by an I the spider which holds the piece of fabric.
  • the device described in Figure 19 provides general guidance of the piece of fabric in front of the presser feet of the sewing machines, which are fixed and which, as is known per se achieve the installation of the elastic by cutting the fabric excess.
  • FIGS. 20 and 21 This guide device is shown in FIGS. 20 and 21.
  • a drive roller 59 presses on the piece of fabric the flange of which bears the reference 58.
  • This roller 59 is driven in rotation according to arrow f1 (FIG. 21) to slide the fabric 57 on a smooth and slippery surface 60.
  • the roller 59 is carried by means allowing it to pivot on itself as shown schematically in FIG. 20.
  • the sewing machine comprises a usual advancement system that are the claws animated by a "pilgrim step", the assembly being known is not shown in detail and is indicated by the reference 61; the elastic is deposited along the line 62.
  • the control device 63 comprises a pallet 65 movable around its horizontal support 66, recalled upward and resting at its end on a pusher 67, said pusher sliding in a housing at the bottom of which is placed a detector 68, for example an optical cell.
  • the claw of the system animated by a pilgrim step under the crowbar 61 pulls on the fabric 57 while the roller 59 pushes it.
  • post K was compared with the rim 58 of the part 57 and the image of the line according to which the elastic should be placed. This comparison was made by calculating at regular intervals the distance separating the rim 58 from the elasticization line; these measurements have been stored.
  • the optical reader 69 measures the position of the rim 58, this measurement is sent to the computer system which compares it with the measurement stored in memory and which consequently controls the variations in direction of the roller 59 to make the necessary corrections for the movement of the fabric under the crowbar.
  • the spider then moves to station N (FIG. 1) where the piece of fabric 57 elasticized and cut according to the final layout is unloaded on a belt conveyor which is shown in FIGS. 22 and 23.
  • FIG. 22 shows, in perspective, the device for folding the panties 70, as well as the device for transferring the panties folded back into a handling clamp 75: while FIG. 23 illustrates three phases of operation of this assembly.
  • the folding device 70 comprises means for gripping the part 57. These gripping means are carried by belts and can be any, for example pliers or needles. In the example shown in FIG. 22, the belts of the folding device 70 are provided with gripping needles as has been described for the conveyors 20, 21 and 22. On the other hand, in relation to FIG. 39, we will describe a gripping system with pliers.
  • the folding device with needle belts 70 ( Figures 22 and 23) is similar in construction to conveyors 20, 21 and 22. After the fourth elasticization, at station M4, the Y-arms of the spider come to a position allowing release the tension from the elastic bands and deploy the lengths of the side seams of the front and back sections without tension; the needles of the two belts of the device 70 being arranged so that they grip room 57 always in the same areas 39.
  • the two belts of the folding device 70 remain parallel to each other over their entire course. They are wound on guide pulleys 71 so as to form two horizontal U-shaped loops, an upper loop 72 and a lower loop 73, symmetrical with respect to each other so that the strands 72a and 72b of on the one hand, 73a and 73b on the other hand move in the opposite direction, as indicated by the arrows, depending on the winding or the counter-winding of the belts.
  • the folding device 70 is fixed.
  • a transfer member 74 is arranged which can move vertically to occupy a high position corresponding to the U-shaped loop 72 or else a low position, corresponding to the other loop 73.
  • This transfer member 74 can also move horizontally between two positions: a position in which it enters between the belts of the folding device 70 and another position in which it enters between the jaws of pliers 75.
  • the transfer member comprises two parallel arms 76, each arm comprises four belts 76a, b, c, d, which are superimposed.
  • the belts 76a and b are parallel and driven in opposite directions; the same is true for belts 76c and 76d. These belts can move apart and approach each other by upward movement 76a and downward 76d of the belts 76b and 76c.
  • the piece of fabric 57 provided with its four elastic bands (front and back belt, left and right thighs) is driven on the two belts of the conveyor 70 and is folded either in one direction by the loop 72 or in the opposite direction by the loop 73 Depending on whether the elasticity is apparent or not, one or the other of the two loops 72 or 73 will be selected by deformation of the transfer 76. The operation will be described below with the loop 72.
  • the two belts of the folding device 70 are immobilized so that the upper edges 57a and 57b are exactly one above the other; the belts 76a and b on the one hand and 76c and d on the other hand are spaced from each other and the transfer member 76 is advanced so that the upper part of the part 57 enters between the belts 76a and b, while the lower part enters between the belts 76c and d (FIG. 23a).
  • the belt 76a is lowered onto the belt 76b, which detaches the upper part of the part 57 from the needles of the folding device 70 and this part is pinched between the belts 76a and b.
  • the belt 76d is wound up, which detaches the lower part of the part 57 from the needles of the folding device 70, this part being pinched between the belts 76c and 76d.
  • the belts 76a and b and 76c and d are then set in motion and, as shown in FIG. 23b, the folded pants are driven by these belts, and are brought to the other end of the transfer member 74 from on either side of a fixed spacer 77.
  • the jaws 75a and 75b of the clamp 75 open and the transfer member 74 moves back (that is to say moves from right to left in FIG. 23) so that its end comes to present the fabric between the jaws 75a and 75b: the parts are then in the relative position shown in FIG.
  • Figures 24 and 25 show the clamp 75.
  • the two jaws 75a and b are U-shaped, each jaw thus comprising two parallel branches connected to their bases by a transverse piece .
  • the two jaws are slidably mounted on four studs 78 and biased against one another by springs 79.
  • the transverse part of the lower jaw 75b carries an axis 80 on which are four rotationally bent L-shaped fingers 81, 82, 83 and 84; two fingers 81 and 82 being on one side and the two fingers 83 and 84 being on the other.
  • the fingers are shown in the starting position for which they are all four in the plane separating the two jaws 75a and b (In FIG.
  • the fingers 83 and 84 are masked by the two branches of right of the jaws 75a and b; while in FIG. 24, the finger 81 is masked by the finger 82).
  • These four fingers have a thickness slightly less than that of the fixed part 77.
  • FIG. 23a corresponds to the station O in Figure 1.
  • the part 57 is kept folded and closed by the branches of the two jaws 75a and 75b.
  • the clamp is then transported by a suitable conveyor in front of a sewing machine sewing head, which corresponds to station P. There the panties are sewn on one of its sides and the excess fabric is cut.
  • a seam finish is possible such as a breakpoint.
  • the clamp is turned 180 ° at station R and the second seam is made at station S.
  • a second seam finish is possible such as Breakpoint.
  • the brief is then finished, but it is inside out, visible seams.
  • the fingers 81 to 84 are spread apart and pliers capable of grasping the panties on the belt catch the back and front parts, then the jaws 75a and 75b are spread apart, releasing the panties on its sides.
  • the panty is turned on itself. The panties are then finished and can be presented to any control or packaging system.
  • the process generally comprises three phases which each correspond to a branch of the installation: a first phase which goes from stations A, B, C to station I; a second which goes from posts J to M4; a third which goes from stations O to V.
  • the first phase corresponds to the cutting and assembly in one piece 57 of the four pieces Dv, Ds, F and Df of which the panty is made up (note that the double bottom Df could be deleted without modifying the process).
  • the second phase corresponds to the elasticization on four sides using the spider.
  • the third phase corresponds to the folding of the part 57 on itself.
  • station J1 corresponds to an entry by the spider after the part deployed at station I is turned over on itself; whereas item J2 corresponds to an entry without reversal.
  • the station J1 is a station of arrival of the spiders.
  • FIGS 26 to 47 show alternative embodiments of certain components of the installation described above.
  • FIGS. 26 to 28 relate to an alternative embodiment of the device for gripping the pieces of fabric after they have been cut.
  • each piece of fabric is gripped by a deformable box, under vacuum, which is formed so that its peripheral wall adapts to the contour of the piece to be gripped.
  • the deformable box is constituted by a frame 87, connected by a hood 85 to a suction pipe 86.
  • the frame 87 carries a plurality of movable columns 88 on which is stretched a wall flexible 89.
  • the base of the flexible wall 89 rests on an openwork carpet 91.
  • FIG. 28 shows that the flexible wall 89 is made up of flexible strips 89a and 89b which can slide one on the other.
  • the balusters 88 move, as illustrated in FIG. 27, to cause the wall 89 to conform exactly to the outline of the piece of fabric to be gripped.
  • the vacuum is then applied and the piece of fabric is gripped by the box and kept pressed against the openwork carpet 91.
  • FIGS. 29 and 30 represent a device for transferring the cut pieces from the deformable box described in relation to FIGS. 26 to 28.
  • the deformable box designated hereinafter by the general reference 89, is itself placed inside an enclosure 90 under vacuum, this enclosure not being deformable.
  • This enclosure 90 is carried by a mechanism, not shown, which allows it to move, on the one hand along the axes x and y of Figure 30 and on the other hand along the axes x and z of the figure 29.
  • the bottom of this box and one of its side walls are formed by the perforated carpet 91, the width of which is at least equal to the largest dimension of the cut pieces.
  • This mat 91 is in a closed loop so as to have a lower strand 91a which passes between the base of the deformable wall 89 and the conveyor 4 and an upper strand 91b which passes over the enclosure 90.
  • Another loop belt 92 cooperates with the belt 91; so that the cut piece, gripped by the deformable box 89, is transported between the strand 92a and the strand 91a.
  • the belts 91 and 92 are on the one hand folded 180 ° one over the other, so that the enclosure 90 can move over the entire width of the cutting table 4 and on the other hand folded at 90 ° and then folded again at 180 ° and allow a displacement along the length of the cutting table 4 at the end of the mat 91.
  • this device is as follows: the deformable box 89 is brought above the cut piece to be gripped and the balusters 88 are moved so that the flexible wall 89 conforms to the outline of said piece; the deformable box is then lowered to come into contact with said part, then is put under vacuum: the part is then glued by suction against the strand 91a of the perforated carpet 91; the two belts 91 and 92 are set in motion and the part is taken between the belts 91 and 92.
  • Figures 47 and 48 correspond to the part framed in dotted lines in Figure 45.
  • the conveyor 121 deposits the part on a table 122 the surface of which is covered with a sliding material. Above this table are arranged conveyors 123, 124, 125 which are each constituted by a pair of loop belts, the two belts of the same pair being slightly spaced.
  • the conveyor 123 has a straight path while the conveyors 124 and 125 can be distant or close to the conveyor 123 and distant or close to one another as indicated symbolically by the arrows.
  • These movements are controlled by the pulleys 126 and 127 which are mounted so as to be mobile; on the other hand the pulleys 128 and 129 are fixed.
  • the cut piece indicated by the reference “p" is thus reduced by bringing the belts 124 and 125 together to the minimum standard height corresponding to the smallest size.
  • the part "p" is pushed by the conveyors 123, 124, 125 onto a table 129.
  • On the other side of this table are arranged three conveyors 130, 131, 132 constituted like the conveyors 123, 124, 125, arranged opposite them at the same but shorter spacings.
  • the part "p” is guided on the table 129 to go from the end of the conveyors 123, 124, 125 to the start of the conveyors 130, 131, 132 by intermediate conveyors with flat belts 133, 134, 135; these three carriers can be lowered or raised.
  • the three transporters 133, 134, 135 guide the front edge of the part "p" from the end of the transporters 123, 124, 125 to the start of the transporters 130, 131, 132. At this time the transporters 133, 134, 135 have been identified.
  • the part "p" thus being of the minimum standard dimensions corresponding to handling by means of the belts to needles of the smallest possible size of the workpiece "p", the workpiece must not stretch again.
  • the carriers 133, 134, 135 lower themselves and put pressure on the folds; then the carriers 130 to 132 as well as the carriers 133 to 135 start simultaneously and at the same speed.
  • the table 129 has longitudinal slots (not shown) in which the needles "a" of the belts 23 described above circulate. By moving the belts 23 upwards by any suitable means, the stitching on the needles "a” is caused to cause the piece "p" which can thus be transported and handled as described above.
  • a gripping mechanism for the assembled part 57 has been described (comprising: a back, a front, a bottom and a double bottom) by means of a member. called “spider"; we will describe below in connection with Figures 31 to 44 another embodiment of the means having the function of taking the assembled part 57 and presenting it in front of the presser feet of the sewing machines having to perform the elasticization
  • These means consist of a set of rails on which move the carriages which, by means of hooks, grip the assembled part 57, always by the same points.
  • this device comprises rails 94 carrying carriages 95 driven by belts 96 (figure 41).
  • the rails 94 have a groove 94a in which rollers 97 roll.
  • the carriages 95 are provided with a notched plate 98 which meshes with notches 96a of the belt 96.
  • Each carriage 95 carries at its base a hook 99 pivoting about an axis 100.
  • FIGS. 37 and 38 for transferring the piece of fabric 57 from the needle belts to the carriages, the needle belt 23 rises, the hook 99 rocks and enters the fabric.
  • the device comprises four rails 94 arranged in two parallel pairs, each pair of rails carrying two pairs of carriages; so that there are eight hooks 99 which grip the part 57 at eight points, which are the invariable grip points described in the previous embodiment example.
  • These gripping points are designated below by the references 1 to 8.
  • the piece of fabric thus extended then passes in front of the head of the sewing machine 61, being oriented by the roller 59, its speed of advance being regulated by the loop sensor 63, as in the previous example.
  • an additional belt 101 can be placed immediately after the machine 61 to ensure the release of the machine.
  • FIG. 33 illustrates the position of the parts when the entry points 1 to 8 arrive on the plate 102;
  • FIG. 34 illustrates the position of the parts when the plate 102 has rotated 180 °;
  • Figure 35 illustrates an overall rotation of 90 °;
  • FIG. 36 of the individual rotations of the small plates 103 to 106.
  • the spread piece of fabric 57 is manipulated by a spider
  • spread the room As shown schematically in FIG. 50, the rails 94 are made to move apart, which causes the part 57 to spread, the image of which is projected onto frosted glass 136; so that an optical reader establishes a computerized image which makes it possible to determine the length of each elastic to be deposited.
  • Figures 42, 44 and 50 illustrate in more detail how this flattening of the part 57 is carried out.
  • the rails 94 are constituted by a juxtaposition of flexible strips, which are assembled to each other by rivets 111, either fixedly or slidingly by means of windows 112.
  • the carriages 95 are no longer driven by the loop belts 96, but by lateral belts 113, guided by rollers 114.
  • the part 57 which has previously been spread in width by the spacing of the rails 94, finishes spreading in length.
  • Figures 39 and 40 illustrate the unloading of a carriage 95.
  • the belts of the device 70 carry grippers 109 rocking around axes 110 mounted on studs 108 integral with the belt 107; they come under the piece to be grabbed.
  • the clips 109 tilt to get into the open position, the hook 99 tips to release the fabric and an auxiliary system which can be a suction, brings the fabric to the open clips which close.
  • the part is then carried by the belts of the folding device previously described in relation to FIG. 22.
  • FIG. 51 schematically represents a first exemplary embodiment of such a turning device.
  • the clamps 75 and the fingers 81 to 84 which hold the panty 57 assembled in the open position shown in Figure 25, are not shown to simplify the figure.
  • two clips 115 and 116 grip one of the upper edge, the other the lower edge of the waistband of the brief 57; clamp 75 (no shown) is then opened to let go of the panties.
  • the two clamps 115 and 116 are rotated towards one another and air is blown by a tube 117, which causes the reversal of the pants which is shown turned over at 57 ′.
  • FIGS. 52 to 55 show a second embodiment of this turning device which is located at station U.
  • Figures 52 and 53 show the clamp 75 of Figures 24 and 25 which has been slightly modified.
  • the jaws 75a and 75b are carried by two supports 137 and 138 which can deviate from or approach each other.
  • the fingers 81, 82, 83 and 84 are replaced by spacers 139 and 140, the lower spacer 139 being integral with the upper support 137 and vice versa.
  • the panty 57 transported, is held on its two sides by the jaws 75a and b; while in FIG. 53, the clamp is shown open, unloaded from the panty 57.
  • the turning device consists of four symmetrical sets of double belts.
  • Each assembly comprises a loop belt 141 arranged in a horizontal U shape inside which is placed a loop belt 142.
  • the idler pulleys 141a, b, c and d of the first and the idler pulleys 142a and b are arranged so that the two lower and upper strands of the belt 142 are in contact with the two internal strands of the belt 141.
  • ramps 143 In front of the pulleys 141d of the two sets are arranged ramps 143.
  • Figure 55 is in fact made up of two half-views; the upper half-view represents the arrangement of the parts when the clamp 75 has just been introduced into the turning device, the briefs 57 not yet returned; the lower half-view represents the arrangement of the parts when the clamp 75 has been removed, the pants 57 having just been turned over.
  • the briefs we have illustrated on the left of the figure three positions of the briefs: a first corresponding to the upper half-view; a second corresponding to the intermediate phase of turning when the belts rotate; a third corresponding to the upper half-view.
  • the operation of this device is as follows.
  • the clamp 75 holds the panty 57 by its two sides, the spacers 139 and 140 being inside the panty.
  • This clamp 75 enters the turning device from the right of Figure 55 according to the arrow (1).
  • the edges of the pants are guided by the ramps 143 and are between the pulleys 141d and 142a. These pulleys are then put into action so that the two edges of the pants are apprehended by the belts 141 and 142.
  • the speed of said belts 141 and 142 must correspond to the speed of advance of the clamp 75.
  • the brief is then finished and brought under its final presentation.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
EP89403508A 1988-12-19 1989-12-15 Procédés de fabrication automatique de produits en feuilles souples constitués de plusieurs pièces assemblées tels que des vêtements ou sous-vêtements ainsi que dispositifs pour la mise en oeuvre de ces procédés Withdrawn EP0375524A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR8816720A FR2640476A1 (fr) 1988-12-19 1988-12-19 Procedes de fabrication automatique de produits en feuilles souples constitues de plusieurs pieces assemblees tels que des vetements ou sous-vetements ainsi que dispositifs pour la mise en oeuvre de ces procedes
FR8816720 1988-12-19

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0375524A1 true EP0375524A1 (fr) 1990-06-27

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EP89403508A Withdrawn EP0375524A1 (fr) 1988-12-19 1989-12-15 Procédés de fabrication automatique de produits en feuilles souples constitués de plusieurs pièces assemblées tels que des vêtements ou sous-vêtements ainsi que dispositifs pour la mise en oeuvre de ces procédés

Country Status (2)

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EP (1) EP0375524A1 (ru)
FR (1) FR2640476A1 (ru)

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GR1001314B (el) * 1991-06-05 1993-08-31 Antonios Tsiopoulos Πολυκεφαλος μηχανισμος και τροπος αυτοματης κοπης και ραφης γουνοφορων και μη δερματων.
CN110552119A (zh) * 2019-08-29 2019-12-10 无锡全锋机械有限公司 一种裁剪四边缝制机构
CN113638141A (zh) * 2021-09-16 2021-11-12 飞虎科技有限公司 一种加工领子的缝纫设备
US20230212802A1 (en) * 2021-12-30 2023-07-06 CreateMe Technologies LLC Hem formation for automated garment manufacture

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN114313944B (zh) * 2022-01-17 2024-05-14 科尔迅智能科技(深圳)有限公司 一种具有翻转功能的棱镜排片机

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US3203386A (en) * 1962-06-06 1965-08-31 Birch Brothers Inc Tacking aligner construction
DE2142720A1 (de) * 1971-08-26 1973-03-15 Heiner Bessmann Verfahren und maschine zum zusammennaehen von zuschnitteilen
DE2145816A1 (de) * 1971-09-14 1973-03-15 Ivanhoe Research Corp Verfahren und geraet fuer die automatische herstellung von bekleidungsstuecken
US3896749A (en) * 1973-11-16 1975-07-29 Novatronics Inc Automated sewing apparatus
US3899986A (en) * 1974-03-27 1975-08-19 Stahl Urban Co Apparatus for guiding limp material
GB2067511A (en) * 1980-01-22 1981-07-30 Bindler Maschf Gebr Gmbh Co Kg Apparatus for varying the spacing between articles arranged in a series
US4292908A (en) * 1978-10-02 1981-10-06 Levi Strauss & Co. Hemmer-seamer
EP0044766A1 (fr) * 1980-07-08 1982-01-27 Société Valton S.A. Dispositif pour la mise en position automatique de pièces de vêtement en vue de leur superposition exacte
US4370936A (en) * 1979-10-18 1983-02-01 Midwestco, Inc. Fabric tube forming methods and apparatus
FR2552744A1 (fr) * 1983-09-30 1985-04-05 Inst Textile De France Procede et installation pour l'alimentation par un meme operateur d'un poste d'assemblage des deux cotes opposes et rectilignes de pieces notamment textiles
FR2558492A1 (fr) * 1984-01-20 1985-07-26 Inst Textile De France Procede et installation d'aide au traitement lineaire d'une piece textile comportant une irregularite de lisiere, due notamment a un bord-cote et applications
EP0152170A2 (en) * 1984-01-09 1985-08-21 Chesebrough-Pond's Inc. Sewing methods and apparatus
WO1986005466A1 (en) * 1985-03-22 1986-09-25 Pacific Dunlop Limited Handling limp fabric
FR2585683A1 (fr) * 1985-08-02 1987-02-06 Bertin & Cie Dispositif d'entrainement pour ensemble de guidage de feuilles de materiau souple destinees a former un assemblage tridimensionnel
WO1987004736A1 (fr) * 1986-02-11 1987-08-13 Anciens Ets René Aaron Dispositif de guidage automatique de materiaux deformables sous forme de feuilles
GB2194725A (en) * 1986-09-04 1988-03-16 Corah Plc Improvements in or relating to garment manufacture
GB2194724A (en) * 1986-09-04 1988-03-16 Corah Plc Improvements in and relating to garment manufacture

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2413891A (en) * 1944-12-29 1947-01-07 Joseph H Roy Mechanism for aligning the edges of sheet material
US3203386A (en) * 1962-06-06 1965-08-31 Birch Brothers Inc Tacking aligner construction
DE2142720A1 (de) * 1971-08-26 1973-03-15 Heiner Bessmann Verfahren und maschine zum zusammennaehen von zuschnitteilen
DE2145816A1 (de) * 1971-09-14 1973-03-15 Ivanhoe Research Corp Verfahren und geraet fuer die automatische herstellung von bekleidungsstuecken
US3896749A (en) * 1973-11-16 1975-07-29 Novatronics Inc Automated sewing apparatus
US3899986A (en) * 1974-03-27 1975-08-19 Stahl Urban Co Apparatus for guiding limp material
US4292908A (en) * 1978-10-02 1981-10-06 Levi Strauss & Co. Hemmer-seamer
US4370936A (en) * 1979-10-18 1983-02-01 Midwestco, Inc. Fabric tube forming methods and apparatus
GB2067511A (en) * 1980-01-22 1981-07-30 Bindler Maschf Gebr Gmbh Co Kg Apparatus for varying the spacing between articles arranged in a series
EP0044766A1 (fr) * 1980-07-08 1982-01-27 Société Valton S.A. Dispositif pour la mise en position automatique de pièces de vêtement en vue de leur superposition exacte
FR2552744A1 (fr) * 1983-09-30 1985-04-05 Inst Textile De France Procede et installation pour l'alimentation par un meme operateur d'un poste d'assemblage des deux cotes opposes et rectilignes de pieces notamment textiles
EP0152170A2 (en) * 1984-01-09 1985-08-21 Chesebrough-Pond's Inc. Sewing methods and apparatus
FR2558492A1 (fr) * 1984-01-20 1985-07-26 Inst Textile De France Procede et installation d'aide au traitement lineaire d'une piece textile comportant une irregularite de lisiere, due notamment a un bord-cote et applications
WO1986005466A1 (en) * 1985-03-22 1986-09-25 Pacific Dunlop Limited Handling limp fabric
FR2585683A1 (fr) * 1985-08-02 1987-02-06 Bertin & Cie Dispositif d'entrainement pour ensemble de guidage de feuilles de materiau souple destinees a former un assemblage tridimensionnel
WO1987004736A1 (fr) * 1986-02-11 1987-08-13 Anciens Ets René Aaron Dispositif de guidage automatique de materiaux deformables sous forme de feuilles
GB2194725A (en) * 1986-09-04 1988-03-16 Corah Plc Improvements in or relating to garment manufacture
GB2194724A (en) * 1986-09-04 1988-03-16 Corah Plc Improvements in and relating to garment manufacture

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GR1001314B (el) * 1991-06-05 1993-08-31 Antonios Tsiopoulos Πολυκεφαλος μηχανισμος και τροπος αυτοματης κοπης και ραφης γουνοφορων και μη δερματων.
CN110552119A (zh) * 2019-08-29 2019-12-10 无锡全锋机械有限公司 一种裁剪四边缝制机构
CN113638141A (zh) * 2021-09-16 2021-11-12 飞虎科技有限公司 一种加工领子的缝纫设备
US20230212802A1 (en) * 2021-12-30 2023-07-06 CreateMe Technologies LLC Hem formation for automated garment manufacture

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
FR2640476B1 (ru) 1994-07-13
FR2640476A1 (fr) 1990-06-22

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