EP0230170A2 - Aktive Saumeinrichtung - Google Patents

Aktive Saumeinrichtung Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0230170A2
EP0230170A2 EP86402640A EP86402640A EP0230170A2 EP 0230170 A2 EP0230170 A2 EP 0230170A2 EP 86402640 A EP86402640 A EP 86402640A EP 86402640 A EP86402640 A EP 86402640A EP 0230170 A2 EP0230170 A2 EP 0230170A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
fold
elements
fabric
formation
guide
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP86402640A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP0230170B1 (de
EP0230170A3 (en
Inventor
Jean-Pierre Raisin
Alain Canaud
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Institut Textile de France
Original Assignee
Institut Textile de France
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Institut Textile de France filed Critical Institut Textile de France
Publication of EP0230170A2 publication Critical patent/EP0230170A2/de
Publication of EP0230170A3 publication Critical patent/EP0230170A3/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0230170B1 publication Critical patent/EP0230170B1/de
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B35/00—Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for
    • D05B35/06—Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for for attaching bands, ribbons, strips, or tapes or for binding
    • D05B35/062—Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for for attaching bands, ribbons, strips, or tapes or for binding with hem-turning
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B35/00—Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for
    • D05B35/10—Edge guides
    • D05B35/102—Edge guide control systems with edge sensors

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a device for guiding a flexible piece such as a textile piece for the formation of a regular fold along an edge of said piece, this device being placed upstream of a stitching station intended to automatically close the fold.
  • This invention applies to the field of clothing, for the production of articles comprising a fold along the edge of the fabric, in particular articles such as sweatpants, shorts which have an elastic belt obtained by the laying an elastic band inside a fold formed along the edge of the fabric.
  • a fold along an edge of a flexible piece such as a textile piece, ext generally produced manually by the operator, who folds the piece parallel to the edge over a width corresponding to the desired width of the fold and present it, the fold thus formed, in the stitching station.
  • the fold is more or less regular.
  • a particular difficulty appears when the fold must contain an elastic band, as is the case in sweatpants: the profile that the operator must follow is located under the first layer of fabric and is therefore invisible to him; the operator must constantly check the width of his fold, by inverting the fabric or by palpating the edges of the elastic and the fabric.
  • the passive assembly thanks to the shape of the recess existing between the two elements, realizes the formation of the fold itself, and the correction device makes it possible to regulate the width of the fold at the time of its formation.
  • the combined action of the passive assembly and the correction device has the effect of presenting a regular fold before the stitching station without any other manual intervention by the operator than the introduction of the part into the passive assembly.
  • the internal element of the passive guide assembly is a hollow part having a U-shaped cross section, the flat and horizontal faces constituting the two branches of the U, and the base of the U of the interior element being opposite the base of the U of the exterior element. Thanks to this arrangement, the elastic band is inserted into the recess of the inner element, then the fold is formed around the inner element and therefore around the elastic band, and presented to the stitching station.
  • At least one of the two elements of the passive assembly is retractable transversely. This arrangement facilitates the introduction of the elastic band into the recess of the inner element.
  • the active guide assembly consists of at least one active guide.
  • it is most often preferable that it comprises two active guides, both resting on the part when it is in contact with one of the faces of the internal element, but one resting on the upper side and the other on the lower side.
  • the two guides act so as to coordinate the movement of the part in accordance with the instructions given by the detection device.
  • the implementation of two active guides, one acting on the upper part of the fold and the other on the lower part of the fold is preferable to avoid the accumulation of fabric in the bent part of the recess between the two interior and exterior elements of the passive assembly, accumulation which would create a malfunction of the guide device.
  • the external element has at least one opening, facing one of the horizontal faces of the internal element, through which the active guide passes when it rests on the flexible part when it is in contact with said face.
  • the flexible part is held by the elements, at the same place where the active guide will be applied.
  • the detection device is a photoelectric detector and the lower part of the external element has an opening intended to allow the light beam to pass and the internal element has a reflecting surface in line with said opening.
  • Articles1 such as sweatpants, jogging pants, shorts on an elastic belt2 obtained by applying an elastic band 3, generally woven, along the edge of the fabric.
  • This band 3 is previously closed on itself to form a bracelet, as illustrated in FIG. 1b. It is then sewn in the round on the tubular belt of article 1, either by leaving it visible to prevent the article from sliding on the body, or by hiding it in a fold of the fabric 9. In the latter case, it is necessary to form a fold along the edge of the fabric, place the elastic band 3 inside the fold and close the fold according to the stitching diagram in Figure 2.
  • the width 1 of the fold from the edge 4 of the fabric at the bent end 5 of the fold is greater than the width of the elastic band 3 and must be kept as constant as possible during the stitching operation, which comprises for example four lines of stitching : two chain stitches two threads 6,7 and a overlap point with two needles 8,8 ⁇ whose lower thread 8 ⁇ hides the edge 4 of the fabric. It is the purpose of the invnetion device to allow the formation of a regular fold in front of the stitching station.
  • the guide device (fig. 3) has two parts, one intended for the formation of the fold and the other for transverse guiding of the fabric.
  • the part corresponding to the formation of the fold comprises two parts 10 and 11, both in the shape of a U, one of which 11 is placed inside the other 10.
  • the part 10, exterior, has a bent part 12 which is the base of U; this piece 10 is retractable transversely relative to the direction D of stitching thanks to the action of the jack 21.
  • the front part 13 - in the direction D of movement of the fabric during the stitching - of the upper branch of this piece 10 is flared upward to facilitate the introduction of the fabric 9, the front part 14 of the lower branch of this piece 10 is oblique with respect to the direction D of stitching (fig. 4b).
  • the upper branch of this same part 10 is pierced with an opening 15 intended for the passage of the head 16 of the upper active guide and the lower branch is pierced with two openings 17 and 18 intended one 17 for the passage of the head 19 of the lower active guide and the other 18 intended for the passage of the light beam coming from the photoelectric detector 20.
  • the part 11, interior is retractable transversely relative to the direction D of stitching , thanks to the action of the jack 22, in the opposite direction to the part 10, as will be explained below.
  • the open end of the U formed by the part 11 faces the bent interior part 12 of the part 10.
  • the recess 24 inside the piece 11 has a rectangular parallel section and a sufficient height f to allow the passage of the elastic band 3.
  • the heights e and f must be much greater than the normal thickness of the fabric (for e) and of the elastic band (for f) to allow the passage of the extra thicknesses due to the closure on themselves of these two elements.
  • the part of the device of the invention corresponding to the transverse guide of the fabric during the formation of the fold comprises two active guides 25 and 26 and the detection device 20.
  • the two guides 25 and 26 are identical, one acting on the upper part of the fold, the other 26 on the lower part of the fold.
  • Each of these active guides consists of a guide head 16, fixed at the end of an arm 27 which is articulated around an axis 28.
  • the guide head 16 comprises a roller 29, movable in rotation, lined on its periphery of ten discs 30, free to rotate in recesses 31 made radially in the roller 29 (fig. 7).
  • the roller 29 is rotated by the stepping motor 32 by means of the belt 33.
  • the pneumatic cylinder 34 allows - in the low position - to apply the guide head 16 against the upper face of the part 11 with pressure controlled by a pressure reducer not shown, the guide head passing through the opening 15 made in the upper branch of the part 10. In the high position of the jack 34, the tapping head is distant from the part 10.
  • the detection device 20 consists of a photoelectric cell which sends a light beam which is reflected on the face bottom of the part 11.
  • the cell 20 detects the presence of the fabric 9 when the latter cuts the light beam or its absence, it controls the action of the stepping motor 32 in one direction or the other.
  • the assembly of the guide device according to the invention is placed in front of the stitching head 35 so that the face 36 of the piece 10 is substantially in the same plane as the upper part 37 of the arm 38 of the sewing machine. Furthermore, four rollers 39 are arranged around the arm 38 of the sewing machine to receive the elastic band 3 in the form of a bracelet, the two upper rollers 39 being arranged so that the elastic band 3 rests on the upper part 37 of the arm 38.
  • the operation of the device is as follows. During the phases of introduction of the elastic band 3, on the one hand the guide heads 16 and 19 are spaced from one another, the jacks 34 being in the high position, and on the other hand the parts 10 and 11 are spaced from each other under the action of the jacks 21 and 22 (fig. 6a).
  • the operator sets up the elastic band 3 around the rollers 39, the presser foot of the stitching head 35 being raised.
  • the piece 11 is moved under the action of the jack 22 in the direction of the arrow F1 (fig. 6b) so that the strip 3 passes between the two U-shaped branches of the piece 11.
  • the piece 10 is advanced under the action of the jack 21 in the direction of the arrow F2 (fig.
  • the fabric 9 is introduced manually by the operator into the upper part of the recess 23 formed between the two parts 10 and 11 until the fold is formed by sliding of the fabric 9 on the different surfaces of the two parts 10 and 11 forming the recess 23 and in particular the bent part 12 of part 10 (fig. 6d).
  • the fabric 9 is pushed by the operator in the direction of stitching for the oblique edge 14 of the lower branch of the part 10 facilitates the formation of the fold.
  • the guide heads 16 and 19 are applied to the upper and lower branches of the part 11 respectively, under the action of the corresponding jacks 34, in the low position. As a result, the guide heads 16 and 19 pinch the fabric 9 against the two faces of the part 11.
  • the signal emitted by the control cell by means of means of known electronic processing, the rotation of the roller 29 of the head 16 in the direction of the arrow F 3 (fig. 3) and that of the roller 29 of the head 19 in the direction of the arrow F4 until the edge 4 of the fabric 9 covers the cell 20.
  • an opposite signal controls the rotation of the rollers 29 in the opposite direction.
  • the two rollers therefore have simultaneous and complementary actions to position the edge 4 of the fabric 9 relative to the stitching lines 8 and 8 ⁇ during the sewing operation.
  • the length of the branches of the part 10 in a U is 40 millimeters, that of the branches of the part 11 is 25 millimeters; the internal recess e between the two parts 10 and 11 is 3.5 millimeters; the outside diameter of the guide heads 16 and 19 is 30 millimeters; the internal recess f between the two branches of the part 11 is 3 millimeters; the distance between the bent interior part 12 of the part 10 and the end of the branches of the part 11 is 10 millimeters.
  • the rear part of the piece 10 - in the direction D of movement of the fabric during the stitching - is 60 millimeters from the needles.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)
EP86402640A 1985-11-27 1986-11-27 Aktive Saumeinrichtung Expired - Lifetime EP0230170B1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR8517535A FR2590601B1 (fr) 1985-11-27 1985-11-27 Dispositif de guidage pour la formation d'un pli le long du bord d'une etoffe.
FR8517535 1985-11-27

Publications (3)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0230170A2 true EP0230170A2 (de) 1987-07-29
EP0230170A3 EP0230170A3 (en) 1987-08-19
EP0230170B1 EP0230170B1 (de) 1990-07-04

Family

ID=9325200

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP86402640A Expired - Lifetime EP0230170B1 (de) 1985-11-27 1986-11-27 Aktive Saumeinrichtung

Country Status (5)

Country Link
US (1) US4714036A (de)
EP (1) EP0230170B1 (de)
DE (1) DE3672472D1 (de)
ES (1) ES2016933B3 (de)
FR (1) FR2590601B1 (de)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0621363A1 (de) * 1993-04-21 1994-10-26 Pegasus Sewing Machine Mfg. Co., Ltd. Automatische Vorrichtung zum Säumen schlauchförmiger Werkstücke

Families Citing this family (18)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE3743281A1 (de) * 1987-12-19 1989-07-06 Union Special Gmbh Naehmaschine zum annaehen eines bandes
IT1221791B (it) * 1988-05-30 1990-07-12 Rockwell Rimoldi Spa Macchina per cucire a base cilindrica
US5010833A (en) * 1988-09-06 1991-04-30 Wrangler Edge detector for felling folder and method
US4924787A (en) * 1989-03-03 1990-05-15 The Charles Stark Draper Laboratory, Inc. Apparatus for forming a seam
US5269239A (en) * 1990-09-10 1993-12-14 Union Special Corporation Automatic attachment of pre-closed elastic waistbands
JPH0523468A (ja) * 1991-07-25 1993-02-02 Pegasus Sewing Mach Mfg Co Ltd ミシンのテープ縫付け方法及び装置
JP2509685Y2 (ja) * 1991-08-12 1996-09-04 シンガー日鋼株式会社 ミシンの三つ巻縫い装置
US5553561A (en) * 1994-08-22 1996-09-10 Jet Sew Technologies, Inc. Sleeve insertion system with edge guide feature
US5636582A (en) * 1994-09-23 1997-06-10 Amf Reece, Inc. Fell seamer device
US5570647A (en) * 1994-09-23 1996-11-05 Union Special Corporation Automatic attachment of a rib knit band to a shirt body
US5505149A (en) * 1995-04-18 1996-04-09 Jet Sew Technologies, Inc. Method and apparatus for attaching sleeves to shirt bodies
IT1290666B1 (it) * 1997-02-06 1998-12-10 Resta Srl Dispositivo per posizionare ed unire ad angolo i bordi di due panni da cucire in una macchina cucitrice, in particolare per la
US5881661A (en) * 1997-11-19 1999-03-16 Jet Sew Technologies, Inc. Leg binding attachment system
US5924376A (en) * 1998-02-19 1999-07-20 Atlanta Attachment Company Waistband attachment system
WO2016153451A1 (en) 2015-03-23 2016-09-29 Terzi Mustafa Rotating brush assembly
JP6727826B2 (ja) * 2016-02-04 2020-07-22 Juki株式会社 ミシン
US10988880B1 (en) * 2020-08-04 2021-04-27 Softwear Automation, Inc. Material aligner
US11499257B2 (en) 2020-08-04 2022-11-15 Softwear Automation, Inc. Material aligner

Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1509148A (en) * 1919-06-17 1924-09-23 Union Special Machine Co Machine for forming and stitching tapered collarets
DE1121913B (de) * 1958-05-02 1962-01-11 Union Special Maschinenfab Vorrichtung fuer Naehmaschinen zur Herstellung eines Bundes aus Schlauchware
DE1152004B (de) * 1959-02-20 1963-07-25 Meta Werk Paul Merz K G Zusatzgeraet fuer Naehmaschinen zum Formen eines endlosen Bundes fuer Kleidungsstuecke mit einer endlosen Einlage
DE3011151A1 (de) * 1980-03-22 1981-10-01 Carl Schmale Kg, 4434 Ochtrup Vorrichtung zum falten der laengskanten fortlaufender textilbahnen
DE8516184U1 (de) * 1985-06-03 1985-07-18 Pfaff Industriemaschinen Gmbh, 6750 Kaiserslautern Führungsvorrichtung für das Nähgut an Nähmaschinen
US4550670A (en) * 1983-01-12 1985-11-05 Consolidated Foods Corporation Material handling system

Family Cites Families (9)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2121896A5 (de) * 1971-01-11 1972-08-25 Centre Tech Ind Habillement
US3752100A (en) * 1971-10-20 1973-08-14 Union Special Machine Co Hem folding attachment
DE2361375C2 (de) * 1973-12-10 1976-01-02 Pfaff Industriemaschinen Gmbh, 6750 Kaiserslautern Nähmaschine zum lagengleichen Vernähen zweier Nähgutlagen
IT1002362B (it) * 1973-12-27 1976-05-20 Virginio Rimoldi E C Spa Guida apribile per applicare agli indumenti le cinture elastiche ad anello
US3922978A (en) * 1974-10-24 1975-12-02 Stahl Urban Co Folding apparatus for a sewing machine
US3994247A (en) * 1975-05-30 1976-11-30 Amf Incorporated Material positioning apparatus
JPS5232749A (en) * 1975-09-05 1977-03-12 Yamato Sewing Machine Mfg Method and device for mechanically hemming annular clothes at bottom
DE2544409C3 (de) * 1975-10-03 1979-05-10 Conrad 8741 Saal Arbter Vorrichtung an Nähanlagen zum Bilden eines doppelten Umschlages an den Schnittkanten von flach aufliegenden Materialbahnen
SU1217264A3 (ru) * 1976-02-27 1986-03-07 Каяба Индастри Ко,Лтд (Фирма) Автоматическа швейна машина

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1509148A (en) * 1919-06-17 1924-09-23 Union Special Machine Co Machine for forming and stitching tapered collarets
DE1121913B (de) * 1958-05-02 1962-01-11 Union Special Maschinenfab Vorrichtung fuer Naehmaschinen zur Herstellung eines Bundes aus Schlauchware
DE1152004B (de) * 1959-02-20 1963-07-25 Meta Werk Paul Merz K G Zusatzgeraet fuer Naehmaschinen zum Formen eines endlosen Bundes fuer Kleidungsstuecke mit einer endlosen Einlage
DE3011151A1 (de) * 1980-03-22 1981-10-01 Carl Schmale Kg, 4434 Ochtrup Vorrichtung zum falten der laengskanten fortlaufender textilbahnen
US4550670A (en) * 1983-01-12 1985-11-05 Consolidated Foods Corporation Material handling system
DE8516184U1 (de) * 1985-06-03 1985-07-18 Pfaff Industriemaschinen Gmbh, 6750 Kaiserslautern Führungsvorrichtung für das Nähgut an Nähmaschinen

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0621363A1 (de) * 1993-04-21 1994-10-26 Pegasus Sewing Machine Mfg. Co., Ltd. Automatische Vorrichtung zum Säumen schlauchförmiger Werkstücke

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP0230170B1 (de) 1990-07-04
ES2016933B3 (es) 1990-12-16
US4714036A (en) 1987-12-22
FR2590601B1 (fr) 1988-02-12
EP0230170A3 (en) 1987-08-19
FR2590601A1 (fr) 1987-05-29
DE3672472D1 (de) 1990-08-09

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