EP0034981A1 - Method of manufacturing knitted pantyhose with seam and incorporated elastic waistband, and pantyhose obtained - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a process for making mesh tights or panty-hose, with seam and elastic belt incorporated therein, and to tights obtained thereby. Over the height of the elastic belt, in a strip of about 2 cm width on either side of the slit made for joining two hose elements by a seam, an elastic yarn is knitted with one needle out of two, on the needles of the strip with the exception of the central needle, then the basic yarn is knitted on all the needles of the circular machine used, the hose elements are slit along the wale of the central needle and are joined by a seam.

Description

The invention relates to a method for making a knitted pantyhose composed of two halves which are joined by a seam going from the belt to the crotch and which also comprises an elastic belt incorporated therein.

Here, an incorporated elastic belt is called a belt which is produced by knitting at the same time as the pantyhose itself, as opposed to the frequently used method which consists in attaching and sewing an elastic band to the upper edge of the pantyhose.

The production of a pantyhose whose belt would be made of a single piece knitted circularly could be made elastic without great difficulty by the use of an elastic thread added to the basic thread.

The situation is very different when it comes to a pantyhose composed of two pieces which are joined by a seam going from the upper front edge of the belt to the rear upper edge passing through the crotch. In this case, two hoses are knitted separately which each have the total length of the pantyhose and which each represent one leg plus the height of the pelvis up to the upper edge of the belt. These two hoses are advantageously obtained using a circular loom. Then we split each of them along a generator from the upper edge to the desired height of the basin. The corresponding edges of the two slits are brought together and sewn together respectively to obtain a sewing pantyhose.

If an elastic thread is used in order to incorporate it into the upper part of each of the two hoses, when the latter are split as just explained, the elastic thread slips and becomes loose.

Two solutions have been proposed so far to remedy this situation. In the published German patent application No. 1,785,346, it is envisaged to knit an elastic thread with the basic thread around the entire perimeter of the belt, alternately every other column of stitches. It is found, in practice, that the elasticity of a belt thus produced is insufficient. In French patent n ° 70-00922 (2,076,342), it is envisaged to knit the elastic thread with the basic thread in a zone of width limited to a few columns of stitches which are all immediately adjacent to one another. When each hose is then split, the selvedges are not clear, the cutting line is not always well centered and sometimes the elastic thread slips.

The main object of the invention is to provide another solution which differs from the solutions described in these patents and which provides a significant advantage from the point of view of the cutting of the hoses and the anchoring of the elastic thread.

According to the invention, the procedure is as follows using a sock loom, double cylinder, double drop, of the type thus comprising, as is common, a hem lock and a Jacquard mechanism.

Each leg is knitted, starting with the ribbed upper part, in tubular form, using the chosen basic yarn (synthetic or natural material or a mixture) and an elastic yarn is used in addition to the basic yarn. that one introduces for example to each row of meshes on a height which depends on the importance of the finished article. In a vertical strip with a width of approximately 2 cm which involves a number of needles between 12 and 24 needles, the elastic thread is knitted alone with the needles of the lower cylinder except the central needle of this strip which is leaves at rest, and only over the selected width, the other needles of the lower cylinder being left to rest and all the needles of the upper cylinder being also put to rest.

At the next fall, the bottom thread is used alone, normally, with all the needles of the two cylinders.

We continue by alternating thus over the entire height of the elastic belt and after making it, we finish to the point by resuming normal work with the basic thread on the two falls, that is to say at each wire distribution.

The two hoses being thus produced, one can cut each of them to make a slit over a height which corresponds to that of the pelvis by cutting the threads in the middle of the vertical strip, at the location of the central needle left at the rest when knitting the elastic thread. The latter is blocked by the way it was knitted and it does not run. Then sew by two flat seams or overlock the two hoses along the two edges of the slots and we obtain the desired tights.

The invention also relates to any pantyhose produced according to the above method; one recognizes such a sticky to the vertical band which extends on either side of the flat seam on the height of the incorporated elastic belt. The appearance of this strip necessarily differs from the appearance of the neighboring and lower parts of the tights.

On this pantyhose, before cutting and sewing, in a band of a few centimeters wide, over the height of the elastic belt, the elastic thread is partially knitted, one column out of two, except for the central column where the thread is screened. On the finished tights, the seam is in the middle of this strip, at the location of the central column.

• - la figure 1 est une vue montrant schématiquement le mode de confection d'un collant conformément au procédé de l'invention,
• - la figure 2 est une représentation schématique montrant les aiguilles utilisées pour le tricotage du fil élastique dans la bande prévue sur la hauteur de la ceinture élastique pour la fente de chaque boyau,
• - la figure 3 est une représentation analogue à celle de la figure 1 montrant l'utilisation des mêmes aiguilles pour le tricotage du fil de fond,
• - la figure 4 est une vue d'un collant terminé selon l'invention,
• - la figure 5 est une représentation schématique montrant les mailles réalisées conformément à l'invention dans la bande de coupe et de couture.

To better understand the process of the invention, a description will now be given of an example of implementation of this process. Reference is made to the appended drawing in which:

• FIG. 1 is a view schematically showing the method of making a pantyhose in accordance with the method of the invention,
• FIG. 2 is a schematic representation showing the needles used for knitting the elastic thread in the strip provided over the height of the elastic belt for the slit of each hose,
• FIG. 3 is a representation similar to that of FIG. 1 showing the use of the same needles for knitting the background thread,
• FIG. 4 is a view of a pantyhose finished according to the invention,
• - Figure 5 is a schematic representation showing the stitches produced according to the invention in the cutting and sewing strip.

The method of the invention can be used for making tights which are made of mesh, in order to be flexible and very extensible, from two elongated hoses 1, 2 cylindrical over their entire length. These casings are obtained from a basic wire whose nature is not imposed by the invention; it can be a thread made of natural or synthetic material or a mixture. The size of the wire is not imposed by the invention either.

For the example described here, we used a cylindrical loom for knitting socks having an upper needle cylinder, a lower needle cylinder, a hem lock associated with the upper cylinder and a Jacquard mechanism associated with the cylinder. inferior. This craft had an 18 gauge and two scraps, or wire distribution, per turn.

Each hose 1, 2 is knitted from an upper end 4 which remains open, to a lower end 3 which is closed. When each hose 1, 2 has been finished, it is split over a height H which corresponds to the height of the pelvis between the crotch and the waist. An open slot is obtained having two edges 5A, 5B and 6A, 6B respectively on the hose 1 and on the hose 2. To obtain the finished tights, visible in FIG. 4, the edges 5A-6A and 5B-6B are sewn together. by a flat or overlock seam 7 which starts from a point of the upper edge to return to the opposite point of the upper edge via the crotch.

This pantyhose has an incorporated elastic belt 8 which is located between the upper edge of the open upper end 4 and a lower limit indicated by a dashed line 9 in FIG. 4. The actual height of the elastic belt 8 is chosen depending on the size or, more exactly, the size of the tights produced.

Between the lower limit indicated by the dashed line 9 of the elastic belt 8 and the tip or lower end 3, each hose is knitted using the single bottom thread. Between the upper edge or hem 4 and the dashed line 9, in addition to the bottom thread, an appropriate elastic thread is known, known per se in this field, and one and the other thread is used alternately, drop by drop, on full height of the elastic waistband.

According to the method of the invention, in a vertical strip designated by the reference 10, a special operation is carried out over the entire height of the elastic belt 8. In FIG. 1 this strip 10 is divided in two by the slot which must precisely be made in the middle of this strip 10.

The width of the strip 10 corresponds to the space occupied by a number, between 12 and 24, preferably between 14 and 22, of neighboring needles, on the upper cylinder and on the lower cylinder. This width is approximately 2 cm with an 18 gauge.

Figures 2 and 3 each show a schematic representation of fourteen needles 11 of the upper cylinder and thirteen needles 12 of the lower cylinder.

When, for a row of stitches, an elastic thread 13 is used, in the width of the strip 10, the needles 11 of the upper cylinder are immobilized at rest, using the hem lock on the loom used here, we also puts out of service all the needles of the lower cylinder except the needles 12 which are put into action with the exception of a central needle 12A which is put out of service, using the Jacquard mechanics of the trade.

When, for the next row of stitches, the bottom thread 14 (FIG. 3) is used, all the needles of the two cylinders are normally used, including the needle 12A.

We continue by alternating thus over the entire height of the elastic belt 10. When the latter is finished, we knit again with the bottom thread alone, on the two falls, as before, to finish the hose.

At this time, over the height of the elastic belt, the strip 10 has the appearance shown partially and schematically in FIG. 5. The bottom thread 14, drawn in a thin line, is knitted in all the rows and in all the columns ; in columns c the stitches are right side up, in columns d they are backwards. In one column out of two (columns e) the elastic thread 13 drawn in a strong line is knitted with the bottom thread 14, except in the central column f (which corresponds to the needle 12A). In the intermediate columns between columns e and column f, the elastic thread 13 is woven and the bottom thread 14 is knitted alone. The central column f where the elastic thread 13 is also woven is clearly visible on the knitted fabric and serves as a cutting line.

When the two hoses are finished, we split them each in the direction of the height, as explained above, by cutting along the column f, at the easily identifiable location of the needle 12A which was not used during knitting the elastic thread 13. The latter is blocked by the process used; it does not slide and does not move. Knitting one column out of two of this elastic thread 13 ensures excellent anchoring of its ends. We can then sew 7 to obtain the finished tights visible in FIG. 4.

In the example described above, it was assumed that the tights were made in a 1/1 rib and that the elastic thread was introduced in a weft every other fall. This way of doing things is not imposed by the invention. The process admits the making of the tights in ribs 2/1 or 2/2 or 3/1 or Derby as well as any fantasy of stitches or Jacquard design. Likewise, it is not necessary to use an elastic thread in the elastic belt which introduces every other fall. What is characteristic of the invention is that, over the width of a strip 10 as defined above, the elastic thread 13 is knitted separately with the needles of a single cylinder with the exception of the needle central, while, between the rows of elastic thread, knit the bottom thread 14 with all the needles of the two cylinders.

It is also clear that the method of the invention can be implemented with other trades than a sock loom with two scraps of thread per turn. The most important trades for making tights, with several falls per turn, can also be used. Adapting the process to these trades does not pose any particular difficulty.

A pantyhose produced according to the invention is recognized by the existence of a band of limited height which exists in the elastic belt, at the rear and at the front of the pantyhose, and in the middle of which the seam passes. strip 10 is easily distinguished by its different appearance from the rest of the tights.

Claims (7)

1 ° / Knitted tights obtained from two knitted hoses, split and joined by sewing, with incorporated elastic belt constituted by an elastic thread added to the basic thread, in which the elastic thread is woven over a significant fraction of its length, characterized in that, before sewing and cutting are carried out, the elastic thread is partially knitted, one column (12) in two (11, 12) in each row over the height of the elastic belt (8), in a band (10) a few centimeters wide, except for the central column (12A) where the elastic thread (13) is woven, in the middle of which band (10) is the seam (7) on the finished tights at the location of the central column (12A). 2 ° / tights according to claim 1 characterized in that the strip where the elastic thread (13) is partially knitted has a width of approximately 2 cm corresponding, according to the gauge, to a number of needles between 12 and 24. 3 ° / A method for making a pantyhose according to any one of claims 1, 2 from two hoses knitted separately on a circular loom with two needle cylinders including an upper cylinder and a lower cylinder, with elastic belt incorporated constituted by an elastic wire added to the basic wire, these hoses being split by a cut then joined by sewing, according to which we weave the elastic wire over a significant fraction of its length, characterized in that in a strip having a width of a few centimeters approximately we proceed as follows: . the elastic thread alone (13) is knitted with the needles (12) of the lower cylinder except the central needle (12A) of this band which is left to rest, the other needles of the lower cylinder being left to rest and all needles (11) of the upper cylinder also being put to rest, . the bottom thread alone (14) is knitted with all the needles of the upper cylinder and the lower cylinder, . these operations are repeated periodically over the entire length of the elastic belt and we finish with the sole thread normally knitted with the needles of the two cylinders, . each hose is cut by following the column which corresponds to the central needle (12A) where the elastic thread has not been knitted. 4 ° / A method according to claim 3 characterized in that by knitting the elastic thread alone (13), the needles (11) of the upper cylinder are immobilized at rest using the loom hem lock and the service the needles of the lower cylinder except the needles (12) of the band (10) with the exception of the central needle (12A) using Jacquard mechanics of the trade. 5 ° / A method according to claim 3 characterized in that on a double drop loom and for a tights knitted in 1/1 rib, on the height of the elastic belt, the elastic thread is alternately used for a fall and then the background for the next fall. 6. The method as claimed in claim 3, characterized in that, for a gauge loom 18, the strip (10) has a width which corresponds to a number of needles between 12 and 24, preferably between 14 and 22. 7 ° / mesh tights characterized in that it is obtained by implementing the method according to any one of claims 3 to 6, this tights having on the height of the elastic belt (8) a band (10) in the middle of which passes the seam (7) of the two hoses (1, 2) which make up the tights, this strip (10) having, over a width of approximately 2 cm, an appearance which is distinguished from the appearance of the rest of the tights.

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