DE2360387A1 - Permanent creasing/pleating process for fabrics - using heat and pressure to melt an amide fibre rod into pressed crease/pleat - Google Patents

Abstract

The fabric is folded along the line to be creased over a core rod of pref. polyamide fibres, and heat and pressure applied to press the fabric and melt the polyamide fibres, followed by a vacuum to draw the molten polyamide into the fibre structure of the fabric. The method imparts a permanent crease/pleat into all types of fabrics, including knit-goods, without affecting the feel or drape of the material, or altering its surface structure or character.

Description

Method for producing permanent ironed creases The invention relates to a method for producing permanent creases in clothing. It relates the invention relates in particular to a method by means of which ironing creases in pants and the like. Garments made of textile material are produced permanently. The method according to the invention can be applied to all textile materials, such as from animal, vegetable or synthetic fibers as well as their mixtures are used. The method according to the invention allows the production of permanent creases, that during the entire life of the item of clothing provided with them do not require renewal or refreshment.

Until now, creases have usually been made using the conventional Pleat pressing produced, with the pants or the like. In a operated with superheated steam Pressing machine are pressed, which an upper and a lower bracket or # press plate owns. Such pressing can be done with all types of textile materials will. The item of clothing is placed on the lower ironing board, whereupon put the top board over it and spray steam directly onto the garment will. When the steam treatment is over, the upper ironing board is lifted up and air is drawn through the perforated lower ironing board, creating the garment is cooled and dried. Normally, this type of pressing process is used a contact pressure of about 100 g / cm² was maintained for 8 seconds, with more saturated Steam of 5 to 6 kg / cm2 overpressure over a period of 5 seconds directly on the garment is sprayed or jetted. An intermediate vacuum treatment with a pressure of 250 g / cm2 can be used over a period of 3 seconds and if necessary, the final negative pressure will be for 10 seconds maintain. This conventional press-ironing process does not result in a durable material Ironing creases, as they disappear when the garment gets wet.

In order to make the creases more permanent, it has been proposed those portions of the garment in which the crease is created should be treated with a solution of ammonium thioglycolate before pressing treatment. The fold is then fixed in a conventional clothes press machine and a conventional pressing with a pressure of.

100 g / cm2 can be run with the pressing pressure 60 seconds is maintained for a long time. Then it takes place. the treatment with saturated steam of 5 to 6 kg / cm² overpressure, which lasts for about 30 seconds, after which a Vacuum treatment from iQ {# seconds e follows # the remaining ammonium thioglycolate solution however, leads to a reduction in the resistance of the material to Crushing and the spray treatment results in a persistent uncomfortable G-e-ruc-ii. The driving requires a pliers contact time and despite the same there is the pressing effect not remarkably better than the conventional pressing method described first.

Another already known procedure for #steliefl More permanent creases are that the garment is in the factory is provided with an impregnation and that-before or after the pressing treatment the material is subjected to hardening. This known treatment is particular for cotton and synthetic materials for casual wear. This The process is not suitable for woolen fabrics and mixed fiber materials and continues to do so the disadvantage that in the garment even after repeated tzaschvorgangs wrinkles remaining in water are retained. Especially in tricot products can be wrinkled by ordinary pressing.

whereupon with the help of a thread a quilted seam lengthways the edge of the crease 'is placed. After the thread is quilted, the Fold pressed again in a clothes press machine. The pressing can take 8 seconds long at a pressure of 100 g / cm2, followed by saturated steam of 5 to 6 kg / cm2 overpressure is applied directly for 5 seconds, whereby an intermediate vacuum treatment at a pressure of 250 g # / cm2 for 5 seconds long comes into effect and a final vacuum treatment takes place over 10 seconds.

However, the durability of the wrinkle is primarily based on that Steppes. This procedure is not very suitable for trousers, and it does not work very well either applied for this purpose. However, this method is completely unsuitable for Formation of permanent wrinkles in suits. Domestic effects become visible when the thread is pulled out.

The invention is therefore based on the object of creating a method with which in a simple way durable and good-looking creases that both Withstand washing processes as well as chemical cleaning processes, can be generated.

This object is achieved according to the invention in that a solid heat-adhesive material is arranged in the calculation of the fold to be produced and through Supply of heat and pressure to both sides of the desired fold Areas of the garment are glued together.

The method according to the invention is the result of long-term investigations, which address the problem of the permanent formation of creases, for example in trousers, were dedicated.

The formation of permanent wrinkles in clothing is extensive more difficult than in tissues. The stability or durability of Ironing creases depend on the level fixation that the cloth has experienced. The effect the level fixation consists in the fact that the garment has a has a flat cloth surface, although there are significant seam folds and unstable folds owns. It is particularly difficult to make materials dimensionally stable, the animal ones and contain vegetable fibers. Also offer Tricot products great difficulties, which is a particularly big disadvantage, since tricot products are in the future increasingly used for garments, since Tricöt products are not very sensitive to crushing. As mentioned above, # are tricot, -goods #but not for imparting dimensional stability in conventional garment press machines suitable.

With the help of the method according to the invention, however, it has become possible solve all of the above problems, of particular importance being that the Process according to the invention for all textile materials including the otherwise Tricot products that are difficult to handle are suitable.

According to the method according to the invention, the folds are produced by that the cloth or material is folded at the point of the crease to be produced and that a thermally adhesive material in the area of the fold between the superimposed Nateflalbahnen is introduced.

Then the thermally adhesive material is applied with the help of heat and preferably also melted by pressure, so that the two textile webs that are on both sides of the desired fold are located in one close to the fold small area are glued together.

A plastic material is preferably used as the thermally adhesive material used in the form of a rod or core, which consists, for example, of an amide. The garment is appropriately aligned according to markings which indicate the position of the crease to be produced, hung over this rod or core. The corresponding parts of the garment are provided with folds, before the assembly of the garment is made from these parts.

The invention is illustrated below using an exemplary embodiment with reference: described in more detail on the drawing. In this show; Fig. 1 that Front part of a pair of trousers in a perspective view, FIG. 2 is a partial view of the front part of the pants in the state hung over the plastic core and Fig. 3 den The process of pressing and fusing or gluing the two trouser parts together around the plastic core.

The eose parts are-trimmed and in the trimmed front part 1 of the pants is the crease to be produced with the help of markings 2 and 3 marked on the upper and lower edge of the trousers part. A core 4 made of plastic material such as a core made of a polyamide fiber is along the top edge a vertical plate 5 arranged. The core 4 can be in one piece or from two, three or four parts or windings depending on the weight of the cloth. The trousers part 1 is taking into account the markings 2 and 3 over the core and the plate 5 folded so that the marks 2 and 5 are aligned with the core are. The trousers part is pressed firmly against the plate 5 with the aid of holding rollers 6 and thus held in its position. The plate 5 with the trousers part attached to it 1 is inserted between a pair of pressure plates-7 and 8 # that perforate and be connected to a device for generating a negative pressure on them can-.

Under the effect of this negative pressure, the trousers part 1 is through a Suction effect held on the pressure plates 7 and 8, so that the pants part even then Remains connected to the - pressure plates - if the plate 5 and the pressure rollers 6 # have been removed. After the plate 5 and the pressure rollers 6 out of the area the crease to be formed in the garment has been removed begins the heat-dependent welding or gluing process. Be for this purpose the pressing plates 7 and 8 pressed against each other with such a force that a Pressure of 0.5 to 1.0 kg / cm2 is exerted on the fold, whichever is applicable Pressure depends on the type of material. For a period of 15 to 20 seconds will exerted a heat of 140 to 160 0C? where 'is the temperature used by the Depends on the weight of the cloth to be held. In the case of fabrics that are sensitive to shine, it becomes more saturated Water vapor at 5 to 6 kg / cm² overpressure is sprayed directly onto the crease. That The process is ended by a cooling process in which ~ air ~ the press plates is pulled. When the cooling process is finished, the trousers part 1 falls out of the Press device out.

In another embodiment of the invention, an amide fiber core is used as a heat adhesive material. When using such an amide fiber core with a contact pressure of 0.5 to 1.0 kg '/ c'm2 over a period of 15 to 20 Seconds and a heat or steam treatment with a temperature of 140 to 160 ° C, also worked over a period of 15 to 20 seconds. In this The procedure is completed by a vacuum treatment that lasts about 10 minutes Lasts for seconds. Under the action of heating the material between the Press plates 7-and-8 melt the heat-adhesive core 4, -by which in a small one area next to the fold, the two halves of the trousers part 1 together with the help of the heat-adhesive Core to be glued.

The invention is not limited to the embodiment described above limited and within the scope of the invention are a variety of modifications possible.

Claims (7)

P a t e n t a n s p r ü c h e 1. Process for producing permanent ironed creases in items of clothing, in this way it is not noted that there is a solid, thermally adhesive material in the Area of the fold to be produced is arranged and by supplying heat and Press the areas of the garment on both sides of the desired crease are glued together. 2. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that g e k e n n -z-e, i c-h n e t that the thermally adhesive material in the form of an elongated core (4) between two Arranged points and that with a crease to be provided part (1) of the garment is placed over the core (4) in such a way that the core is in linear alignment with the fold to be generated is that the core (4) and that placed over it Garment part (1) inserted between a pair of heatable press plates (7, 8) with the help of which, with the application of heat and pressure, the thermally adhesive material of the core (4) is brought to melt in such a way that the 'both sides' of the fold arranged textile webs are glued together in the area of the fold. 3. The method according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that g ek e n n -z e i c h n e t that the core (4) above and along a support plate standing on an edge (5 #, which carries the core (4), that after the garment part is arranged (1) over the core and over the plate the core (4) the plate (5) and the garment part (1-) are inserted between the pressing plates (7, 8), whereby the garment part (1) is held in contact with the press plates (7, 8) by means of negative pressure, that the support plate (5) is then removed, during the The core remains in the area of the fold to be produced, and that the press plates (7, 8) are moved against each other to melt the core (4). 4. The method according to claim 3, characterized in that g e k e n n z e i c h n e t, that the garment part (1) with the aid of rollers (6) in contact with the support plate (5) is held before the core, panel and garment part between the press plates (7, 8) are inserted. 5. The method according to at least one of claims 1 to 4, characterized it is not noted that it is carried out on tailored garment parts - before they are put together to form a complete piece of clothing, and that the fold to be produced prior to placing the garment part (1) over the core (4) is marked with the aid of markings (2, 3), and that the garment part (1) is hung over the core (4) in alignment with the markings (2, 3). 6. The method according to at least one of claims 1 to 5, characterized G e k e n n n z e i c h n e.t, - that the pressing process with a contact pressure of 0.5 to 1.0 kg / cm2 at a temperature of 140 to 160 ° G for a period of time runs for 15 to 20 seconds, 7. The method according to claim 6, characterized in g E k e n n n z e i c h -n e t that a 10-second vacuum treatment after the printing process follows, during which the molten material of the core (4) solidifies.