DE1107164B - Undercollars for women and men clothing - Google Patents

Undercollars for women and men clothing

Info

Publication number
DE1107164B
DE1107164B DEV16225A DEV0016225A DE1107164B DE 1107164 B DE1107164 B DE 1107164B DE V16225 A DEV16225 A DE V16225A DE V0016225 A DEV0016225 A DE V0016225A DE 1107164 B DE1107164 B DE 1107164B
Authority
DE
Germany
Prior art keywords
resins
undercollar
clothing
parts
women
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
DEV16225A
Other languages
German (de)
Inventor
Guenther Von Eisenhart-Rothe
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Ver Filzfabriken A G
Original Assignee
Ver Filzfabriken A G
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Ver Filzfabriken A G filed Critical Ver Filzfabriken A G
Priority to DEV16225A priority Critical patent/DE1107164B/en
Priority to CH700561D priority patent/CH700561A4/en
Priority to CH286760A priority patent/CH400964A/en
Priority to FR821717A priority patent/FR1251678A/en
Priority to BE588801A priority patent/BE588801A/en
Priority to GB1001460A priority patent/GB952173A/en
Publication of DE1107164B publication Critical patent/DE1107164B/en
Pending legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04H—MAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
    • D04H1/00—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres
    • D04H1/40—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties
    • D04H1/42—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties characterised by the use of certain kinds of fibres insofar as this use has no preponderant influence on the consolidation of the fleece
    • D04H1/4266—Natural fibres not provided for in group D04H1/425
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/02—Linings
    • A41D27/06—Stiffening-pieces
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04H—MAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
    • D04H1/00—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres
    • D04H1/40—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties
    • D04H1/58—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties by applying, incorporating or activating chemical or thermoplastic bonding agents, e.g. adhesives
    • D04H1/64—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties by applying, incorporating or activating chemical or thermoplastic bonding agents, e.g. adhesives the bonding agent being applied in wet state, e.g. chemical agents in dispersions or solutions
    • D04H1/645—Impregnation followed by a solidification process
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04H—MAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
    • D04H1/00—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres
    • D04H1/40—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties
    • D04H1/58—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties by applying, incorporating or activating chemical or thermoplastic bonding agents, e.g. adhesives
    • D04H1/64—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties by applying, incorporating or activating chemical or thermoplastic bonding agents, e.g. adhesives the bonding agent being applied in wet state, e.g. chemical agents in dispersions or solutions
    • D04H1/645—Impregnation followed by a solidification process
    • D04H1/65—Impregnation followed by a solidification process using mixed or composite fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/01—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with natural macromolecular compounds or derivatives thereof
    • D06M15/03—Polysaccharides or derivatives thereof
    • D06M15/11—Starch or derivatives thereof
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/21—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/244—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of halogenated hydrocarbons
    • D06M15/248—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of halogenated hydrocarbons containing chlorine
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/37—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/39—Aldehyde resins; Ketone resins; Polyacetals
    • D06M15/423—Amino-aldehyde resins
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M17/00—Producing multi-layer textile fabrics
    • D06M17/04—Producing multi-layer textile fabrics by applying synthetic resins as adhesives
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G05—CONTROLLING; REGULATING
    • G05B—CONTROL OR REGULATING SYSTEMS IN GENERAL; FUNCTIONAL ELEMENTS OF SUCH SYSTEMS; MONITORING OR TESTING ARRANGEMENTS FOR SUCH SYSTEMS OR ELEMENTS
    • G05B19/00—Programme-control systems
    • G05B19/02—Programme-control systems electric
    • G05B19/04—Programme control other than numerical control, i.e. in sequence controllers or logic controllers
    • G05B19/06—Programme control other than numerical control, i.e. in sequence controllers or logic controllers using cams, discs, rods, drums or the like
    • G05B19/063—Programme control other than numerical control, i.e. in sequence controllers or logic controllers using cams, discs, rods, drums or the like for sequential programme-control without delivering a reference value
    • H—ELECTRICITY
    • H01—ELECTRIC ELEMENTS
    • H01H—ELECTRIC SWITCHES; RELAYS; SELECTORS; EMERGENCY PROTECTIVE DEVICES
    • H01H43/00—Time or time-programme switches providing a choice of time-intervals for executing one or more switching actions and automatically terminating their operations after the programme is completed
    • H01H43/10—Time or time-programme switches providing a choice of time-intervals for executing one or more switching actions and automatically terminating their operations after the programme is completed with timing of actuation of contacts due to a part rotating at substantially constant speed
    • H01H43/12—Time or time-programme switches providing a choice of time-intervals for executing one or more switching actions and automatically terminating their operations after the programme is completed with timing of actuation of contacts due to a part rotating at substantially constant speed stopping automatically after a single cycle of operation
    • H—ELECTRICITY
    • H01—ELECTRIC ELEMENTS
    • H01H—ELECTRIC SWITCHES; RELAYS; SELECTORS; EMERGENCY PROTECTIVE DEVICES
    • H01H43/00—Time or time-programme switches providing a choice of time-intervals for executing one or more switching actions and automatically terminating their operations after the programme is completed
    • H01H43/10—Time or time-programme switches providing a choice of time-intervals for executing one or more switching actions and automatically terminating their operations after the programme is completed with timing of actuation of contacts due to a part rotating at substantially constant speed
    • H01H43/12—Time or time-programme switches providing a choice of time-intervals for executing one or more switching actions and automatically terminating their operations after the programme is completed with timing of actuation of contacts due to a part rotating at substantially constant speed stopping automatically after a single cycle of operation
    • H01H43/125—Time or time-programme switches providing a choice of time-intervals for executing one or more switching actions and automatically terminating their operations after the programme is completed with timing of actuation of contacts due to a part rotating at substantially constant speed stopping automatically after a single cycle of operation using a cam
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2200/00—Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
    • D06M2200/45—Shrinking resistance, anti-felting properties

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Automation & Control Theory (AREA)
  • Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • General Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
  • Laminated Bodies (AREA)
  • Paper (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Nonwoven Fabrics (AREA)

Description

Üblicherweise werden bei der Herstellung von Jacketts und Mänteln für Herren- und Damenbekleidung die Kragen mit zwei Einlageschichten, nämlich einem Unterkragenfilzzuschnitt und einem entsprechenden Zuschnitt von Steifleinen oder Schrägleinen, die miteinander versteppt sind, gearbeitet. Soweit man in den Zeiten der Rohstoffknappheit auf das Steifleinen oder Schrägleinen verzichten mußte und nur mit den üblichen Unterkragenfilzen arbeitete, mußte man unbefriedigende Fasson und mehr oder weniger große Lappigkeit des fertigen Kragens in Kauf nehmen. Ein Unterkragen, der nur aus einer Lage ohne zusätzliche verformbare Einlagen, beispielsweise Schräggewebe, mit oder ohne Zwischenfutter besteht, hat bisher in der Kleiderkonfektion nicht Eingang finden können, weil die von der Konfektion gestellten Forderungen an die Verformbarkeit des Materials und einen ausreichenden Aufspringwinkel bei genügender Reinigungsbeständigkeit sich damit bisher nicht erfüllen ließen.Commonly used in the manufacture of jackets and coats for men's and women's clothing the collars with two insert layers, namely an undercollar felt cut and one appropriate cutting of stiff lines or inclined lines, which are quilted together, worked. As long as you do without the stiff linen or inclined linen in times of scarcity of raw materials had to and only worked with the usual undercollar felts, one had to have an unsatisfactory shape and accept more or less great limpness of the finished collar. An under collar that only from a layer without additional deformable inlays, for example bias weave, with or without Intermediate lining has so far not been able to find its way into clothing manufacture because the The requirements for the deformability of the material made by the manufacture and sufficient So far, it has not been possible to meet the opening angles with sufficient resistance to cleaning.

Es sind auch Versteifungsstoffe aus mit Kautschuk verklebten und zusammenvulkanisierten oder auch mittels wasserunlöslicher Kondensate von Formaldehyd vernetzten Wirrfasern vorgeschlagen worden, die aber ebenfalls durchaus unbefriedigend sind. In solchen Wirrfaservliesen sind nämlich die Fasern ohne bestimmte Richtungsorientierung in dem Gebilde verteilt und nicht nur durch die Klebewirkung des Bindemittels, sondern auch durch ihre gegenseitige Eigenhaftung miteinander verbunden. Derartige Wirrfaservliese besitzen daher in sämtlichen Richtungen in gleicher Weise einen Widerstand gegen Formänderung, selbst wenn durch Einwirkung von Wärme od. dgl. vorübergehend die verbindende Wirkung des Bindemittels aufgehoben bzw. abgeschwächt wird. Auf Grund dieser Eigenschaft sind diese Wirrfaservliese als Einlagen nur für solche Teile von Kleidungsstücken geeignet, in denen, wie z. B. bei den Brustpartien, eine bestimmte Formgebung durch die Formbeständigkeit der Einlage erreicht werden soll. Gerade wegen dieser Formbeständigkeit sind diese bekannten Wirrfaservliese aber als Materialien für Unterkragen nicht geeignet, weil diese Kragen dressiert werden und daher unbedingt aus einem Material bestehen müssen, das einen höheren Grad von Dehnungsfähigkeit aufweist. Die in den Zeiten der Materialknappheit mit Unterkragen nur aus einer Lage Kragenfilz gesammelten Erfahrungen waren so ungünstig, daß die Fachwelt es für schlechthin unmöglich hielt, die normalen technischen und modischen Erfordernisse mit einem nur aus einer einzigen Einlageschicht hergestellten Kragen zu befriedigen, und Unterkragen für
Damen- und HerrenbekleidungsstückeStiffening materials made from tangled fibers bonded with rubber and vulcanized together or else crosslinked by means of water-insoluble condensates of formaldehyde have also been proposed, but these are likewise entirely unsatisfactory. In such tangled fiber webs, the fibers are distributed in the structure without a specific directional orientation and are connected to one another not only through the adhesive effect of the binding agent, but also through their mutual adhesion. Such random fiber nonwovens therefore have the same resistance to change in shape in all directions, even if the binding effect of the binding agent is temporarily canceled or weakened by the action of heat or the like. Due to this property, these tangled fiber fleeces are only suitable as inserts for those parts of clothing in which, such. B. in the chest areas, a certain shape should be achieved by the dimensional stability of the insert. It is precisely because of this dimensional stability that these known tangled fiber nonwovens are unsuitable as materials for undercollars, because these collars are dressed and therefore have to consist of a material that has a higher degree of extensibility. The experience gained in the times of material scarcity with undercollars from only one layer of collar felt was so unfavorable that the experts considered it absolutely impossible to satisfy normal technical and fashion requirements with a collar made from only a single layer of interlining, and undercollars for
Clothing for women and men

Anmelder:Applicant:

Vereinigte Filzfabriken A. G.,
Giengen/Brenz.United Filzfabriken AG,
Giengen / Brenz.

Günther von Eisenhart-Rothe, Giengen/Brenz.,
ist als Erfinder genannt wordenGünther von Eisenhart-Rothe, Giengen / Brenz.,
has been named as the inventor

sie kehrte daher nach Aufhören der Rohstoffknappheit wieder zur zweilagigen Arbeitsweise mit Unterkragenfilz und Steif- oder Schrägleinen zurück.Therefore, after the shortage of raw materials had ceased, she returned to the two-layer method of working with undercollar felt and stiff or sloping lines back.

Dieses Vorurteil wird mit der vorliegenden Erfindung überwunden. Ihr Gegenstand ist ein aus einer einzigen Materiallage bestehender Unterkragen für Damen- und Herrenbekleidungsstücke, der die Form eines im wesentlichen in einer bestimmten Richtung orientierten, gefilzten oder nicht gefilzten und durch Einlagerung von Kunstharzen stark sprungelastisch und krumpfarm gemachten Faservlieses besitzt.This prejudice is overcome with the present invention. Your subject is one of one single material layer of existing undercollars for women’s and men’s clothing that defines the shape one oriented essentially in a certain direction, felted or not felted and through Storage of synthetic resins has a highly elastic and shrink-free fiber fleece.

Bei einem derartigen Vlies aus im wesentlichen in einer Richtung orientierten Faser ist, nach vorübergehender Aufhebung der verbindenden Wirkung der eingelagerten Kunstharze, eine Dehnung des Vlieszuschnittes quer zur allgemeinen Orientierungsrichtung der Fasern in weitem Umfang möglich, während die Sprungelastizität in der Orientierungsrichtung der Fasern voll erhalten bleibt. Damit ist ein Material geschaffen, dessen Eigenschaften gerade den Erfordernissen des Unterkragenmaterials und seines Dressierens unmittelbar und ideal angepaßt sind, so daß es, entgegen dem bisher geltenden Vorurteil, überraschenderweise gelingt, aus nur einer einzigen Materiallage Unterkragen in Qualitäten zu fertigen, die mit den besten zweilagigen, aus Unterkragenfilz plus Steif- oder Schrägleinen gefertigten Artikeln in Wettbewerb zu treten vermögen.In the case of such a nonwoven made of fibers oriented essentially in one direction, it is temporary Removal of the binding effect of the embedded synthetic resins, an expansion of the fleece blank transversely to the general direction of orientation of the fibers possible to a large extent, while the elasticity of resilience in the orientation direction of the fibers is fully retained. So that's a material created, the properties of which just meet the requirements of the lower collar material and his Are directly and ideally adapted, so that, contrary to the previously valid prejudice, Surprisingly, it is possible to manufacture lower collars from just a single layer of material in qualities those made with the best two-ply articles made from undercollar felt plus stiff or bias linen in To enter into competition.

Der Unterkragen der Erfindung ist doppelseitig verwendbar und auch in dieser Beziehung dem bisherigen zweilagigen Material ebenbürtig. AußerdemThe lower collar of the invention can be used on both sides and also in this respect the previous one equal to two-ply material. aside from that

109.608/3109.608 / 3

ist er preisgünstiger und arbeitssparend. Er macht nicht nur das Schräggewebe, sondern auch jede sonstige zum Einbringen zwischen zwei Stofflagen bekannte Einlage entbehrlich.it is cheaper and more labor-saving. Not only does he do the bias weave, but each one too other insert known for insertion between two layers of fabric is dispensable.

Vorzugsweise werden Krempelvliese aus Mischfasern, die z. B. ausPreferably, carded nonwovens are made from mixed fibers which, for. B. off

90% Wollfasern (Schurwolle, Wollabgänge oder90% wool fibers (virgin wool, wool waste or

Reißwolle),
10% Viskose- oder KupferzellwolleShredded wool),
10% viscose or copper cellulose wool

55% Wolle,
45% Zellwolle55% wool,
45% rayon

oderor

20% Wolle,
80% Zellwolle20% wool,
80% rayon

bestehen, benutzt, da sie bei gleicher Wirksamkeit preisgünstiger sind.exist, used because they are cheaper with the same effectiveness.

Besonders günstig ist es, wenn in das Faservlies Gemische von thermoplastischen Kunstharzen mit härtbaren Harzen und etwas Stärke eingelagert werden. Geeignete Mischungsverhältnisse sind 75 bis 50 Teile thermoplastische Kunstharze, 15 bis 40 Teile härtbare Harze und 10 Teile Stärke.It is particularly advantageous if mixtures of thermoplastic synthetic resins are used in the nonwoven fabric curable resins and some starch. Suitable mixing ratios are 75 to 50 parts of thermoplastic synthetic resins, 15 to 40 parts of curable resins and 10 parts of starch.

Zweckmäßig wird die Harzeinlagerung so bemessen, daß die Gesamtmenge der eingelagerten Stoffe etwa 35% des Gesamtgewichts des Unterkragenfilzes nach der Erfindung ausmacht.The resin storage is expediently dimensioned in such a way that the total amount of the stored Fabrics make up about 35% of the total weight of the undercollar felt of the invention.

Beispiele für die EinlagerungExamples of storage

1. 75% Polyvinylchlorid oder Mischpolymerisat,
15% Carbamidharz oder Melaminharz,
10% Stärke;1. 75% polyvinyl chloride or mixed polymer,
15% carbamide resin or melamine resin,
10% starch;

2. 75% Polyvinylchlorid oder Mischpolymerisat,
10% Carbamidharz,2. 75% polyvinyl chloride or mixed polymer,
10% carbamide resin,

5% Melaminharz,
10% Stärke;5% melamine resin,
10% starch;

3. 50% Polyvinylchlorid oder Mischpolymerisat,
40% Carbamidharz oder Melaminharz,
10% Stärke;3. 50% polyvinyl chloride or mixed polymer,
40% carbamide resin or melamine resin,
10% starch;

4. 50% Polyvinylchlorid oder Mischpolymerisat,
20% Carbamidharz,4. 50% polyvinyl chloride or mixed polymer,
20% carbamide resin,

20% Melaminharz,
10% Stärke.20% melamine resin,
10% strength.

Artikelitems Auf
spring
winkel
in Gradenon
jump
angle
in degrees Kragen
gewichtcollar
weight Krumpf
wert Φ in 0Zo,
Breite zu
LängeCrump
value Φ in 0 Zo,
Width too
length 5
1. Unterkragenfllz,
normal (ohne
Leinen)
2. Unterkragenfilz
10 mit Leinen
3. einlagiger Unter
kragen nach der
Erfindung 5
1. under collar
normal (without
Linen)
2. Under collar felt
10 with linen
3. single layer sub
collar after the
invention 102,7
123
130102.7
123
130 5,5
17,5
9,55.5
17.5
9.5 6,3:1,8
6,3 : 1,8
1 :0,56.3: 1.8
6.3: 1.8
1: 0.5

3535

4040

4545

Für mittelschwere Bekleidungsstücke wählt man die Stärke des Vlieses derart, daß der fertigveredelte Unterkragenfllz bei der üblichen Breite von 180 cm auf den laufenden Meter 400 g bis 550 g wiegt. Bei ganz leichter Oberbekleidung kann das Gewicht auf etwa 325 g bis 350 g ermäßigt, bei schweren Ulstern u. dgl. auf 600 g und darüber gesteigert werden.For medium-weight items of clothing, the thickness of the fleece is chosen so that the finished fabric The undercollar panel weighs 400 g to 550 g on the running meter with the usual width of 180 cm. at Very light outerwear can reduce the weight to around 325 g to 350 g, for heavy ulsters and the like can be increased to 600 g and above.

Die Sprungelastizität des Unterkragenfilzes nach der Erfindung wird nach DIN 53890 geprüft. Sie hängt im wesentlichen von der Imprägnierung ab und kann nach den Bedürfnissen des einzelnen Falles variiert werden. Der überraschende technische Fortschritt des Unterkragenfilzes nach der Erfindung liegt darin, daß man ohne weiteres Aufspringwinkel von 130° und darüber erreicht und damit den Aufspringwinkel merklich übertrifft, der jetzt bestenfalls mit der zweilagigen Einarbeitung von Unterkragenfilz und Steifleinen erreicht wurde, wie die nachstehende Tabelle zeigt.The elasticity of the undercollar felt according to the invention is tested in accordance with DIN 53890. she depends essentially on the impregnation and can be according to the needs of the individual Can be varied if necessary. The surprising technical progress of the undercollar felt according to the invention lies in the fact that you can easily reach the opening angle of 130 ° and above, and thus the opening angle noticeably surpasses that now at best with the two-layer incorporation of undercollar felt and stiff linen has been achieved, as shown in the table below.

Außer diesem bemerkenswerten technischen Effekt liegen weitere Vorteile der Erfindung in einer erheblichen Gewichts- und Kostenersparnis.In addition to this remarkable technical effect, there are further advantages of the invention in a considerable one Weight and cost savings.

Der handelsübliche Unterkragenfilz wiegt bei cm Breite 300 bis 350 g, der handelsübliche, mit Schrägleinen pikierte Unterkragenfllz etwa 900 bis 1050 g, der einlagig zu verarbeitende Unterkragenfllz nach der Erfindung 400 bis 500 g je Meter (für Bekleidungsstücke mittlerer Schwere).The standard undercollar felt weighs 300 to 350 g at cm width, the standard, The undercollar felt with diagonal lines pricked out approx. 900 to 1050 g, the undercollar should be processed in a single layer according to the invention 400 to 500 g per meter (for items of clothing of medium weight).

Die Gewichtsersparnis beträgt also etwa 50% gegenüber der bisherigen zweilagigen Verarbeitung.The weight saving is therefore around 50% compared to the previous two-layer processing.

In der Kalkulation der Kleiderfabrik stellt sich beispielsweise, berechnet auf 180 cm Breite, ein Unterkragen mit Unterkragenfllz vom Metergewicht g mit Schrägleinen und Zutat heute rund auf DM 14,80, während der einlagig zu verarbeitende Unterkragenfilz der Erfindung bei einem Metergewicht von 500 g sich für den Verarbeiter je Meter mit etwa DM 8,80 kalkuliert, was eine Verbilligung um etwa 40% bedeutet.In the calculation of the clothing factory, for example, is calculated on a width of 180 cm Undercollar with undercollar felt of the meter weight g with sloping lines and ingredient today round DM 14.80, while the single-layer undercollar felt of the invention has a weight per meter 500 g is calculated at around DM 8.80 per meter for the processor, which is a reduction in price means by about 40%.

Claims (4)

PATENTANSPRÜCHE:PATENT CLAIMS: 1. Unterkragen für Damen- und Herrenbekleidungsstücke, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß er aus einer einzigen Materiallage in Form eines im wesentlichen in einer bestimmten Richtung orientierten gefilzten oder nicht gefilzten und durch Einlagerung von Kunstharzen stark sprungelastisch und krumpfarm gemachten Faservlieses besteht.1. Undercollar for women’s and men’s clothing, characterized in that it consists of a single layer of material in the form of a felted or non-felted fiber fleece which is substantially oriented in a certain direction and made highly elastic and shrink-free by the incorporation of synthetic resins. 2. Unterkragen nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß das Faservlies in an sich bekannter Weise zu 90 bis 20% aus Wollfasern und zu 10 bis 80% aus anderen Fasern, insbesondere Zellwolle mit einer Einlagerung thermoplastischer und/oder härtender Harze, sowie gegebenenfalls Stärke besteht.2. Undercollar according to claim 1, characterized in that the nonwoven fabric is known per se 90 to 20% wool fibers and 10 to 80% other fibers, in particular Spun rayon with an embedding of thermoplastic and / or hardening resins, and optionally Strength exists. 3. Unterkragen nach Anspruch 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die Einlagerung zu 75 bis 50 Teilen aus thermoplastischen Harzen, insbesondere Polymerisaten und Mischpolymerisaten auf Vinylbasis, zu 15 bis 40 Teilen aus härtenden Harzen, insbesondere Carbamidharzen oder MeI-aminharzen, und zu 10 Teilen aus Stärke besteht.3. Under collar according to claim 2, characterized in that the storage to 75 to 50 parts made of thermoplastic resins, especially polymers and copolymers based on vinyl, 15 to 40 parts of hardening resins, in particular carbamide resins or melamine resins, and consists of 10 parts of starch. 4. Unterkragen nach Anspruch 2 oder 3, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die eingelagerten Harze und Stärke etwa 35% des Gesamtgewichts ausmachen.4. lower collar according to claim 2 or 3, characterized in that the stored Resins and starch make up about 35% of the total weight. In Betracht gezogene Druckschriften:
Deutsche Patentschrift Nr. 882 683;
deutsche Auslegeschrift Nr. 1 036 804.Considered publications:
German Patent No. 882 683;
German interpretative document No. 1 036 804. © 109 608/3 5.61© 109 608/3 5.61
DEV16225A 1959-03-20 1959-03-20 Undercollars for women and men clothing Pending DE1107164B (en)

Priority Applications (6)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DEV16225A DE1107164B (en) 1959-03-20 1959-03-20 Undercollars for women and men clothing
CH700561D CH700561A4 (en) 1959-03-20 1960-03-14 Collar underlay for men and women dresses
CH286760A CH400964A (en) 1959-03-20 1960-03-14 Process for placing collars under on men's and women's clothing
FR821717A FR1251678A (en) 1959-03-20 1960-03-18 Manufacturing process of collar supports for men's and women's clothing
BE588801A BE588801A (en) 1959-03-20 1960-03-18 A process for manufacturing collar linings for men's and women's clothing.
GB1001460A GB952173A (en) 1959-03-20 1960-03-21 Improvements in and relating to the manufacture of undercollars for garments

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DEV16225A DE1107164B (en) 1959-03-20 1959-03-20 Undercollars for women and men clothing

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
DE1107164B true DE1107164B (en) 1961-05-25

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Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
DEV16225A Pending DE1107164B (en) 1959-03-20 1959-03-20 Undercollars for women and men clothing

Country Status (4)

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BE (1) BE588801A (en)
CH (2) CH400964A (en)
DE (1) DE1107164B (en)
GB (1) GB952173A (en)

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
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CN106773670B (en) * 2016-11-23 2019-08-20 吉林师范大学 SCR system method for urea injection control based on constraint H ∞ feedback oscillator arteries and veins stave

Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE882683C (en) * 1948-10-02 1953-07-09 Freudenberg Carl Kg Stiffener
DE1036804B (en) * 1954-09-08 1958-08-21 Egon Eloed Dr Ing Process for the production of non-woven, porous nonwovens

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE882683C (en) * 1948-10-02 1953-07-09 Freudenberg Carl Kg Stiffener
DE1036804B (en) * 1954-09-08 1958-08-21 Egon Eloed Dr Ing Process for the production of non-woven, porous nonwovens

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
GB952173A (en) 1964-03-11
CH400964A (en) 1965-10-31
CH700561A4 (en) 1965-03-31
BE588801A (en) 1960-07-18

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