DE3133690A1 - Interlining for garments - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to an interlining which is characterised by spotwise beflocking in that an adhesive has been applied in the form of spots and the spots have been beflocked with cut flock. The invention is further distinguished by an outer fabric which has been beflocked in the same way on its inner surface.

Description

Interlining for clothing

The invention relates to an interlining material for the production of interlinings for clothing.

Interlinings are cuts from a web of interlining material. They are used for Stiffening z. B. for the chest, shoulder and / or side areas of in particular Outer clothing such as coats, jackets, jackets, jackets, shirts, ties or similar. In addition, the deposits should have the shape or appearance of the item of clothing even after frequent wearing and washing or cleaning ensure unchanged as possible. In this respect, a deposit is also a good one Spring elasticity required.

Inlays are either sewn into the outer fabric or superficially provided with a thermoplastic fixing material, an adhesive, and with the outer fabric glued under the action of heat.

Interlinings usually consist of textile fabrics, knitted fabrics or fleece.

In order to fulfill their tasks, the insert must be in an item of clothing be differently stiff and / or resilient. Is known for this purpose z. B., on an insert whole part at certain points of the garment insert reinforcements, so-called reinforcement plaques, to be attached from smaller insert pieces.

To avoid this time-consuming method, there are different areas Rigid one-piece fabric inserts have been produced, the fabric web in a predetermined web width and / or length greater thread density and / or threads larger Bounce are incorporated. It is also known to have one-piece woven stiffening inserts to produce different tissue thicknesses and structures in adjacent areas exhibit. It is also known to apply fixing coatings to a one-piece stiffening insert or to apply a web of interlining material in such a way that different areas Stiffening properties arise or are reinforced or secured.

This latter method is also used in particular for deposits made of fleece.

In all known methods, the reinforcements or stiffening effect a reduction in elasticity.

The object of the invention is therefore to change an interlining material so that that the resilience improves and the desired stiffening ability at least preserved.

This task is done in a woven or knitted Interlining or solved in the case of a nonwoven interlining in that the interlining is electrostatic is flocked with textile fibers.

The electrostatic flocking of textiles is known. Be there short staple monofilament textile fibers aligned by the action of an electric field and thrown onto a textile web previously provided with adhesive, wherein the fibers penetrate into the adhesive and are anchored there.

Suitable for the purposes of the invention is cut flake made of semi-synthetic Raw material after the viscose, copper and acetate spinning process as well as fully synthetic Raw materials such as polyamide, polyester or acrylic, with the viscose flake being preferred will. It is also possible to use a cut flock from a natural one Raw material, for example from horsehair. The length of the used in the present invention Flocks are 0.1 to 5 mm, preferably 0.5 to 3 mm with a thickness of 0.5 up to 30 dtex, preferably from 0.9 to 6.7 dtex. A is preferred as the adhesive known low-crosslinking, one-component synthetic resin dispersion adhesive, an acrylic-based copolymer (acrylic-nitrile) applied. This glue is heat-resistant, highly elastic, abrasion-resistant, washable and dry-cleaning-resistant.

It is essential that the adhesive is punctiform in a manner known per se is applied. The point distribution on the surface of the interlining material can be used be geometrically uniform; but it can also be arbitrarily different in be a predetermined distance range of the points (computer point).

Devices known per se are used for flocking, which make it possible to Apply flake of the desired type in the desired amount.

The flocking of interlinings or interlinings is by no means vicinity. On the one hand, the application of an adhesive usually has a negative impact the degree of stiffening and resilience (DE-OS 19 54 801). To that extent is it makes no sense to improve the important properties of an interlining material use a process that requires the application of adhesive.

On the other hand, it is known that the flocking of textiles is the product makes it softer. This known effect contradicts the general objective in ensuring the required properties of stiffening inserts. The object of the invention is achieved to this extent in particular by the specified selected parameters such as use of cut flake, selection of special Adhesives and point-like application of the adhesive, with the geometric shape of the point can be arbitrary (hemisphere, truncated cone or the like).

Cut flakes are made from monofilament staple fibers by cutting. In contrast to the so-called grinding flakes, which are made by grinding cotton or waste from rayon, polyamide or the like can be cut flake with almost the same fiber lengths are cut.

The use of cut flakes obviously requires the guarantee and improving the elasticity of the interlining material. It is believed that the upright fibers of about the same length anchored in the glue point adjacent points collide with each other during bending movements of the interlining material respectively.

Lean against each other and support, whereby they due to the inherent elasticity the fibers give way elastically and develop reaction forces. The lifting of the The effect of force through bending movements causes the elastic springback of the fibers, so that the original position is resumed. This does not work in the desired dimensions if the adhesive, as is usually the case with flocking, is applied over the entire surface. In addition, due to the point-like distribution of the adhesive the normally expected disturbance of the stiffening properties and resilience of the carrier material is missing. The points work with each other in combination with the Flock like elastic joints so that no interference from the adhesive he follows.

During the ironing process of the flocked insert on a shaping ironing press a support of the desired shape arises during the heating Surprisingly, the fact that the glue dots soften slightly and after Cooling and re-hardening hold the given shape particularly well without the Flock position changes.

It is known to flock tights with wool fibers (Mahlflock), whereby to maintain the elasticity of the pantyhose, the adhesive is applied in dots the surface is applied (DE-OS 24 77 250).

However, this is not about maintaining the elasticity of the spring of a fabric, but about the elasticity of the textile threads that make up the tights is made. In this respect, this publication cannot give any suggestion to increase the elasticity of an interlining material has a punctiform adhesive wear to choose. The teaching of the publication indicates that an adhesive application affects the properties of a textile product. This teaching is consistent with the teaching known from DE-OS 19 54 801, according to which also for interlining materials a punctiform application of the adhesive impairs the required properties. Only the combination of punctiform application with the use of cut flakes Fibers of almost the same length brings the surprising result that the stiffening property of the interlining material and the elasticity can be improved by the flocking can.

The most effective distance between the glue dots and their size or diameter are depending on the length and strength of the fibers and their own elasticity determined empirically. The flocking can differ zonally be chosen so that one-piece deposits with zonally different stiffening properties develop. These different properties can be desired through the variation the parameters point volume and point spacing of the adhesive as well as fiber length, fiber thickness and fiber material properties of the cut flock are guaranteed. In combination this can of course also use the known processes for producing one-piece Insoles with different stiffening properties in different zones can be used.

The flocking according to the invention is carried out by customary methods. First the fabric is point-coated with adhesive, then the flat, electrostatic flocking, drying and knocking off or brushing off the superfluous, Fibers not anchored in glue dots. If a fixing insert material is flocked, a fixing adhesive is preferably used, the melting point of which or softening is at lower temperatures than the melting point or the Softening of the flocking adhesive, whereby the application of the fixing adhesive preferably takes place after flocking.

In addition to the advantages described, flocking the interlining material other considerable advantages. The volume of the substance becomes much larger or fuller without increasing the weight significantly. Well-known interlinings of the same volume are much heavier and can only be produced with complex means.

The volume of the fabric increased by the flocking is the greatest Part filled with air, resulting in good thermal insulation and a benefit of the Body climate of the garment wearer result. The upright fibers of the flock also reduce the so-called board effect of the insert. They give way when pressure is applied to the free end regions, it becomes elastic, so that an elastic Gives upholstery effect.

Surprisingly, it has also been shown that you can use the carrier of the flock, namely the interlining, can be dispensed with if the flocking is done directly is made on the outer fabric. It is necessary that the point-like The adhesive is applied and then the flocking is carried out as described above.

In this connection it could also be established that in This direct flocking of the outer fabric is also suitable for grinding flock.

Based on the drawing, on which schematically a piece of an inventive Interlining is shown, the invention is exemplary explained in more detail. The interlining 1, which is a woven fabric, knitted fabric, fleece or the like can be, can have fixing adhesive dots 2 on the underside. On the top glue points 3 are applied, in which cut flock fibers 4 are approximately the same Length are anchored standing upright.

The glue dots 3 are so adjacent that some, in particular the edge fibers 4 of adjacent points are already in a flat position of the fabric web 1 prop up. The points 3 and fibers 4 can, however, also expediently be three-dimensional be arranged so that they are only elastically supported when the fabric web 1 is bent upwards by a certain amount.

Claims (10)

Claims: 1. interlining material, g e k e n n n z e i c h n e t d u r c h a point-by-point flocking. 2. interlining material according to claim 1, g e k e n n z e i c h -n e t d u r c h a punctiform application of the adhesive and a flocking of the points with cut flakes. 3. interlining material according to claim 1 and / or 2, d a d u r c h g e k e It is not indicated that the point distribution is geometrically uniform. 4. interlining material according to claim 1 and / or 2, g e k e n n z e i c h n e t d u r c h a computer point distribution of the glue points. 5. interlining material according to one or more of claims 1 to 4, d a d u r c h g e k e n n n z e i c h n e t that the flocking from a cut flake is made of viscose. 6. interlining material according to one or more of claims 1 to 5, d a d u r c h g e k e n n n z e i c h n e t that the length of the flakes is 0.5 to 3 mm amounts to. 7. interlining material according to one or more of claims 1 to 6, d a d u r c h g e k e n n n z e i c h n e t that the strength of the flakes 0.9 to 6.7 dtex is. 8. interlining material according to one or more of claims 1 to 7, d a d u r c h g e k e n n n z e i c h n e t that the adhesive is a low-crosslinking, one-component synthetic resin dispersion adhesive to be processed. 9. interlining material according to claim 8, d a d u r c h g e -k e n n z e i c h n e t that the adhesive is an acrylic-based copolymer. 10. Outer fabric, d u r c h e k e n n n z e i c h -n e t that he flocked on the inside in dots according to the features of claims 1 to 9 is.