DE4116569A1 - Stiffener for outer garments - has a soft base held in place in both directions to avoid creasing made from a fibre web, synthetic knitted yarn and weft, etc. - Google Patents

Abstract

Inlaid stiffening pads are made up from a fibre web, synthetic knitted warp and weft, with a bonded surface. The pads are based on specified fibre count and wt. of web with unjointed wales knitted into, or bonded on to the web. At the same time, a much thicker weft is bound in by the knitted loops, which have points of adhesive applied. The soft web may be spunlace, needleform or thermoplastic bonded, from synthetic or cellulosic fibre, 1 to 3.3 dtex, wt., between 15 and 50 grams per sq. metre. A thin foam sheet may be incorporated. The warp knit from polyester mixt., is not jointed along the wales, and may have open or closed loops, on a Raschel machine, or bonded. The warp is 20 to 45 dtex with 35 to 80 threads in 10 cms. A weft thread is bound in on one side of the web. This is 100 to 500 dtex. This may be cellulosic, polyester, nylon or a mixt., coarse acylic yarn is also proposed. A thermo plastic adhesive is applied in points of 200 to 800 per 6.45 sq. cms. on the weft. ADVANTAGE - The inlay retains its shape as it is reinforced in both directions, but has a soft feel. It does not shift, on account of the structure. It is crease resistant. It is suitable for blouses or shirt collars and cuffck

Description

The invention relates to an insert for reinforcing Outer clothing made from a composite of a Textile fiber fleece with a warp knit Synthetic multifilament threads and with weft threads, as well as theirs Use as a whole part insert.

For reinforcing outerwear such as jackets or coats, are inserts in the front part of the Garment used. The deposits are as so-called whole part inlays in the front area of the Garment on the left side of the outer fabric by means of punctiform sitting on the insert Hot melt adhesive compositions under pressure and heat application fixed on. In addition, in the breast and Shoulder area even smaller  Fixing insert or plack cuts applied, which an increase in the reinforcing effect in these areas effect and a flowing, stable adjustment between the outer shape of the garment and the individual body shape of the wearer in this area should generate.

In modern outerwear, the Reinforcing effect achieved by the whole part insert will be only minor. The whole part insert should be in Waist area and essentially only one below Smoothing and keeping the shape of the garment and a Generate dimension stabilization. To achieve this, are fabrics made of fine thread with a Hot melt adhesive point coating used. To be a good one Adhesion, a soft grip and freedom from kickback reach, the tissues are mostly on the Coating opposite side roughened. Instead of napped ones Woven fabrics are also used, in which in Warp knitted weft threads are inserted. The woven fabrics are also spot coated and mostly roughened. Recently, knitted nonwovens have also been used as interlining materials Dot coatings were added that worked through Nonwovens exist. Finally, there are nonwovens with integrated weft threads and dot coatings as fixable insert nonwovens have been proposed. Out EP-01 19 754 is an insert made of a compact compacted fleece, from a warp knit and from Weft threads known in which the coating is on the opposite side to the tied weft side. The fixing handle of such inserts is tight and the weft threads tend to wear and clean with it manufactured garments for emigration because they only insufficiently held by the stitches of the knitted fabric  will. The result is a strong wave formation of the Outer fabric and an increased tendency to shrink fixed insert when wearing and cleaning the Garment. The wave formation is hardly by ironing eliminate more.

In EP-01 19 754 the bound weft threads are relatively far apart. So two each Weft threads laid in one row of stitches and the next Row of stitches remains free of weft threads. this leads to a lattice-like structure of the insert, the one Fixing the insert to outer fabrics without signing the Weft threads on the upper surface only allow if the hot-melt adhesive coating, as in EP-01 19 754, is on the opposite side to the weft threads.

The other deposits mentioned also have disadvantages. The Hosiery fleeces without weft embedding are transverse to Warp direction extensible and therefore often not in able to achieve the desired dimensional stabilization generate and the fabric and weave inserts must almost always be roughened to use them as fixation pads to be able to use.

The task was therefore to provide a fixable insert develop that creates a soft feel, one Dimensional stabilization in the longitudinal and transverse directions evokes the laborious process of roughening can be avoided and yet the positive properties, generated by the roughening, possesses and finally freed from an increased tendency to shrink is.  

The present invention now describes one fixable insert. This insert from a composite of a Textile fiber fleece, a warp knit with Synthetic multifilament threads, from weft threads and with one grid-shaped hot melt adhesive coating is thereby characterized that the composite

• a) a weakly consolidated textile fiber fleece with a fiber thickness of 1.0 to 3.3 dtex and a weight class of 15 to 50 g / m ² ;
• b) one in a non-offset fringe binding designed warp knitting with a warp thread size of 20 to 45 dtex, the warp density 35 to 80 threads / 10 cm and the Fiber thickness 1 to 2.5 dtex; and
• c) embedded in the stitches of the warp knit Weft threads with a thread size of 100 to 500 dtex, the Weft density 70 to 200 threads / 10 cm, fiber thickness 1 to 3.3 dtex contains, where
• d) the hot melt adhesive coating on the Weft side is provided.

This insert is mainly used to reinforce whole parts of outerwear use.

The textile fiber fleece contained in the composite with a fiber thickness of 1.0 to 3.3 dtex and a weight class of 15 to 50 g / m ² can be a hydroentangled nonwoven made of cotton, rayon or synthetic fibers. With a weight above about 30 g / m ² , the fleece can also be needled. It can also consist of a spot-welded fleece with a synthetic fiber content of over 75%. By using one of these three types of fleece, the softness of the fixing insert is greatly enhanced.

Particularly high softness and fullness of the invention Insert is made by embedding a fleece, For example, a spot-welded fleece that with a foam sheet with a thickness of about 1.0 to 2 mm is needled.

The warp-knitted fabric with a warp thread thickness of 20 to 45 dtex, a warp density of 35 to 80 threads / 10 cm and a fiber thickness of 1 to 2.5 dtex, which produces the composite of fleece or fleece / foam and weft threads, has a non-offset fringe weave, in which each stitch - Fringe with the closest one is not connected with threads of the knitted fabric. This type of weave creates the desired high warp and weft stability. The non-offset fringe binding can be closed ( Fig. 7) or open ( Fig. 6).

From each row of stitches in the warp knit to the fleece tied weft threads with a thread size of 100 to 500 dtex, the fiber thickness 1 to 3.3 dtex and the weft density of 70 Up to 130 threads / 10 cm can be made of cotton or rayon consist. However, they should preferably be at least 30% Synthetic fibers, such as polyester fibers, polyacrylic fibers and / or contain polyamide fibers. The rest can Cotton fibers or, preferably, cellulose fibers. The Weft yarn can also be high-rise acrylic yarn. By the use of synthetic fibers Shrinkage reduction strongly encouraged.

A further advantage of the shrinkage reduction is achieved by the weft-side dot grid coating, which completely secures the integration of the weft threads. The grid coating is carried out with 10 to 100 points / cm ² .

For inserting the weft threads in each row of stitches, either on the front side of the stitch (see FIGS . 1 and 2) or on the back of the stitch (see FIGS. 4 and 5), and for producing the object of the invention with the relatively high weft density of 70-130 threads / 10 cm so far there were technical obstacles. The higher the weft density is selected, the more the nonwoven in the composite of nonwoven, stitches and weft threads tends to jump in the transverse direction with a considerable loss of width when the composite is made on a nonwoven Raschel machine. Surprisingly, this loss can be largely eliminated by keeping the fleece evenly taut in the transverse direction right up to the knitting tools, which can be achieved, for example, by clamping as far as possible in roller spreader installed near the knitting tools. It is only through the creation of such or similar technical requirements for the production of knitted nonwovens with relatively high weft densities that it is possible to apply the coating provided in the invention in an advantageous manner to the weft side without the risk of moiré formation, the tendency of the weft threads to migrate and the dimensional changes to be observed Avoid and finally also to eliminate the markings that occur when coating on the weft side when fixing to outer fabrics.

The insert according to the invention is mainly used for Full part reinforcement of front parts for Outerwear used. But it can also be used for other purposes are used, e.g. B. during production of heated car seats.  

But it can also be used as a shirt insert, especially for flannel shirts to reinforce the collar and cuffs. Shirt inserts previously on the market consist of densely woven cotton fabrics, which are coated with polyethylene or polyester in a fine grid pattern. When attached to shirt cut outs, they produce a relatively hard, less voluminous handle, feel relatively stiff on the neck and arm as a cuff and tend to wrinkle. The insert according to the invention gives the fixing compound for the collar and cuffs a soft, less crease-prone grip, and the shirts made with it are particularly comfortable to wear. Preferred use is for flannel shirts. Finally, the insert according to the invention can also be used as a blouse insert, for example when using lightweight nonwovens of approximately 20 g / m ^2, to reinforce the collars, cuffs and buttonhole placket.

The insert according to the invention produces similar to one woven and roughened fixing insert one soft grip with a certain desired Elasticity in the weft direction is, however kickback-proof and considerably fluffier, causes a Dimensional stabilization in warp and weft direction. Compared to the previously known knitted fabrics without Weft entry has a clearly in the transverse direction higher form retention, because of the incorporation of the Weft threads in relatively high density will jump into Transverse direction increased and shape retention improved. they in contrast to woven inserts, it does not require any Resin treatment to remove Signs of shrinkage is environmentally friendly since it is not Formaldehyde cleaves, and can with high  Production speeds are manufactured. In the end it does not require a complex roughening process and is overall higher quality than all previous ones known deposits.

Fig. 1 shows a detail on the side coated with adhesive dots of a first embodiment of this insert on a larger scale;

Fig. 2 shows the back of this embodiment in detail;

Fig. 3 is the cross section along line III-III in Fig. 2;

Fig. 4 shows a section on the adhesive-coated side of a second embodiment of the insert according to the invention;

Fig. 5 shows the back of this embodiment in detail;

Fig. 6 shows a possible binding of the wales of the Kettgewirks;

Fig. 7 shows another possible binding of the wales of the warp knit.

Fig. 1 and 2 show sections of the adhesive-coated points 1 front side and the adhesive-free back of the first embodiment of the insert according to the invention, in which the non-woven with the wefts 3 of the Kettfadengewirkes is connected in such a way through the mesh 4, that the weft threads 3 on the front side of the Stitches 4 are involved. The stitches lying one above the other are connected to each other in open or closed fringe weave to form wales 5 . FIG. 6 shows the detail of a warp knitted fabric with wale 5 in open, non-offset fringe weave in a separate representation, while FIG. 7 shows a warp-knit fabric with wale 10 in closed, non-offset fringe weave.

FIGS. 4 and 5 show sections of the adhesive-coated points 6 front side and the adhesive-free back of the second embodiment of the insert according to the invention in cut-outs, wherein the web 7 of the Kettfadengewirkes is so connected to the weft yarns 8 through the mesh 9, that the weft threads on the loop back are involved. Here too, the wales 10 of the warp knitted fabric can have an open, non-offset fringe weave, as shown in FIG. 6, or a closed, non-offset fringe weave, as shown in FIG. 7.

EXAMPLE 1

The knitting tools of a conventional fleece Raschel machine with weft insertion are fed horizontally with a spot-welded, approx. 200 cm wide fleece of the weight class 30 g / m ² , the fleece fiber thickness 1.2 dtex and the fleece fiber composition made of 70% polyamide and 30% polyester fibers. At the same time, the laying rails of the Vlies-Raschel machine receive 44 dtex multifilament warp threads with 33 fibers per warp thread. The warp material is made of polyester. The warp density is 47 threads / 10 cm. The fleece is connected to the stitches in a stitch formation process via the warp thread-guiding laying rails and the pusher needles that pierce the fleece. A weft thread is inserted and bound into each stitch via the weft laying apparatus. The weft and stitch formation density is 110 threads or stitches / 10 cm. The weft material consists of cellulose threads with a thread size of 360 dtex and a fiber size of 1.4 dtex. To avoid a large loss in width of the nonwoven, the nonwoven is held tight in the transverse direction by means of roller spreader installed close to the knitting tools with a width of the inclined control rollers of approximately 300 mm.

The composite running out of the Vlies-Raschel machine is wound up and then washed out hot, dried and heat-set at 185 ° C. By compressing the chain during heat setting, the weft density increases to 125 threads / 10 cm. After heat setting, a coating with hot melt adhesive is carried out in a punctiform arrangement of 50 dots / cm ² on the weft side.

EXAMPLE 2

Same execution as in example 1 with the difference, that weft threads instead of cellulose weft threads Polyester / cellulose with a polyester content of 50%, a thread size of 230 dtex and a fiber size of approx. 1.4 dtex can be used. The shot density is 120 threads / 10 cm after rustling and 135 threads / 10 cm after heat setting.  

EXAMPLE 3

Same execution as in example 1 with the difference, that instead of cellulose wefts Polyacrylic high-rise weft threads with a thickness of 312 dtex and the fiber thickness 1.5 dtex can be used. The Weft density is 110 threads / 10 cm after rustling and 125 threads / 10 cm after heat setting.

Claims (14)

1. Fixable insert from a composite of a textile fiber fleece, a warp knit with synthetic multifilament threads, from weft threads and from a grid-shaped hot-melt adhesive coating for reinforcing outer garments, characterized in that the composite

• a) a weakly consolidated textile fiber fleece ( 2 , 7 ) with a fiber thickness of 1 to 3.3 dtex and a weight class of 15 to 50 g / m ² ;
• b) a warp knitted fabric ( 4 , 5 , 9 , 10 ) of 20 to 45 dtex, 35 to 80 threads / 10 cm and a fiber thickness of 1 to 2.5 dtex formed in a non-offset fringe weave ( 4 , 5 , 9 , 10 ); and
• c) weft threads ( 3 , 8 ) of thread thickness 100 to 500 dtex, weft density 70 to 130 threads / 10 cm, fiber thickness 1 to 3, integrated into the stitches ( 4 , 5 ) of the warp knitted fabric ( 4 , 5 , 9 , 10 ) Has 3 dtex
• d) the hot-melt adhesive coating ( 1 ) being on the weft side of the insert.

2. Insert according to claim 1, characterized characterized that they contains water-jet bonded nonwovens in the composite.   3. Insert according to claim 1, characterized characterized that she needled Contains nonwovens in the composite. 4. Insert according to claim 1, characterized characterized that they spot-welded nonwovens with a Contains over 75% synthetic fiber in the composite. 5. Insert according to claims 1 to 4, characterized characterized that they have a Needle compound from a weakly consolidated Textile fiber fleece and a thin foam sheet in the Overall network contains. 6. Insert according to claim 1, characterized characterized in that the warp knitted fabric has an open staggered fringe weave. 7. Insert according to claims 1 to 6, characterized characterized in that the warp knitted fabric a closed staggered fringe binding having. 8. Insert according to claims 1 to 7, characterized characterized that the weft at least 30% polyester fiber, Polyacrylic fibers and / or polyamide fibers. 9. Insert according to claims 1 to 8, characterized characterized that the weft from a mixture of cellulose fibers and There is polyester fiber.   10. Insert according to claims 1 to 9, characterized characterized that the weft consists of high-bulk acrylic yarn. 11. Insert according to claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the shot-side dot-grid-shaped hot-melt adhesive coating ( 18 ) with 200 to 800 points / 6.45 cm ² (inch ² ) is executed. 12. Use of the insert according to claims 1 to 12 for Full part reinforcement of outer clothing. 13. Use of the insert according to claims 1 to 11 for Shirt collar and cuff reinforcement. 14. Use of the insert according to claims 1 to 11 for Blouse reinforcement.