EP0514563B1 - Reinforcement material for outerwear and its application - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention concerns an interfacing for stiffening outer garments which is formed from a composite of a nonwoven textile (19), a warp knit fabric with synthetic multifilament threads and weft threads (20). The composite according to the invention contains a loosely bonded nonwoven fabric (19 ) of fibre count 1 to 5 dtex and weight class 30 to 150 g/m2, a warp knit fabric of warp thread count 20 to 80 dtex, set of the warp 40 to 70 threads per 10 cm and fibre count 1 to 3.5 dtex and resilient weft threads (20) incorporated into each stitch course of the warp knit fabric of thread count 300 to 2000 dtex, set of the weft 70 to 130 threads/10 cm and, for a fibre proportion in excess of 50% by weight, a fibre count of 7 to 60 dtex. Said interfacing may be used as a backing panel interfacing or as an additional stiffening panel interfacing of garments in the region of the shoulder, armhole and shoulder area or even as a component of shoulder pads or for stiffening sleeves of outer garments in the rounded area at the top of the arm. (FIG. 2 ).

Description

To reinforce outer garments, such as jackets or coats, inserts are used in the front part of the garment, which are fixed as so-called full-part inserts on the outer fabric by means of hot-melt adhesive masses that point onto the insert under pressure and heat. Since these whole-part inserts have only a relatively low elasticity, further smaller insole cuts have been applied to this whole-part inserts to additionally reinforce the breast, shoulder, armpit and armhole area, which should result in a gradual increase in the reinforcing effect in these areas. So-called multi-area inlays of the warp version with graded reinforcement zones are also used as full-section inlays. These also often require additional inserts in the chest and shoulder area, require sophisticated warping technology and are difficult to bring to a low-shrinkage standard. Multi-area inserts of the warp version, which can possibly do without additional inserts, are described in EP-A-0 369 046, but could not be implemented due to production-related difficulties.

These additional inserts are often so-called basic patch inserts, which consist of a fabric with strong weft yarns and have increased bending stiffness in the weft direction. They are mostly with their sideways Cut edges on the fabric cut of the garment provided with the whole part insert are fixed with adhesive nets or tapes. The rest of the basic paint area lies loosely on the whole part insert in the garment. This basic patch insert is often used to pick up even more, even smaller, patch inserts in graded sizes as shoulder, armhole and armpit supports and as armpit supports alone in wide sewing stitches. Since these plack inlays feel relatively strong, they are often still covered with a soft, fluffy and voluminously cushioning felt, non-woven fabric or knitted fleece and connected to this by punctiform adhesive fixing.

Items of clothing provided with such inserts are usually optimally reinforced, but require a high level of production and material expenditure and particularly great care in the preparation of the plack inserts, their positioning and clean pricking. The above-mentioned plack inlays and the soft plack cover must be positioned with millimeter precision and connected to an overall patch by elaborate sewing processes, which correspond to the armpit cavity on the neck, give enough freedom near the shoulder bone, follow the curve of the armhole cavity and ensure a pleasant rounding of the chest.

The present invention relates to a plack insert as an additional reinforcement insert for the additional reinforcement of the shoulder, armpit and armhole area of outer clothing, which consists of a composite of a textile fiber fleece, a warp knitted fabric with synthetic multifilament threads and weft threads.

EP-A-0 387 117 discloses an interlining material for reinforcement interlinings made from such a composite become. However, since this interlining material has weft threads of high elasticity and therefore only low stiffness and elasticity, it is not suitable for the production of additional reinforcement inserts for the shoulder, armpit and armhole area, since such additional reinforcement inserts must have high elasticity. Inserts with weft threads of high resilience in a dense arrangement, however, are subject to a high warp shrinkage, which does not permit their use as additional reinforcing plack inserts.

• a) das Textilfaservlies ein leicht verfestigtes Faservlies der Faserstärke 1 bis 5 dtex und der Gewichtsklasse 30 bis 150 g/m² ist,
• b) das Kettengewirk die Kettfadenstärke 20 bis 80 dtex und die Faserstärke 1 bis 3,5 dtex bei einer Kettdichte von 40 bis 70 Fäden/10 cm hat und
• c) die Schußfäden sprungkräftige Schußfäden sind, die in jede Maschenreihe des Kettengewirks eingelegt sind und eine Fadenstärke von 300 bis 2000 dtex in einer Schußdichte von 70 bis 130 Fäden/10 cm und bei einem Faseranteil von über 50 Gew.-% eine Faserstärke von 7 bis 1000 dtex haben.

The invention is therefore based on the object of developing a plack insert as an additional reinforcement insert for the additional reinforcement of the shoulder, armpit and armhole area of outer clothing, which consists of a composite of a textile fiber fleece, a warp knitted fabric with synthetic multifilament threads and weft threads, which are relatively simple Structure and simple processing distinguish themselves, have the optimal quality of the previous additional reinforcements formed from several black liners and have a soft, non-board grip. This is achieved according to the invention in that

• a) the textile fiber fleece is a slightly consolidated fiber fleece with a fiber thickness of 1 to 5 dtex and a weight class of 30 to 150 g / m²,
• b) the warp knit has the warp thread thickness 20 to 80 dtex and the fiber strength 1 to 3.5 dtex with a warp density of 40 to 70 threads / 10 cm and
• c) the weft threads are vigorous weft threads which are inserted into each row of stitches in the warp knit and one Thread thickness of 300 to 2000 dtex in a weft density of 70 to 130 threads / 10 cm and with a fiber content of over 50% by weight have a fiber thickness of 7 to 1000 dtex.

The inventive design of the textile fiber fleece and the warp-knitted fabric with inserted, powerful weft threads ensures that the black insert can be used as an additional reinforcement insert for the shoulder, armpit and armhole area. But it can also be used as a component of shoulder pads and to reinforce sleeves in clothing.

The insert according to the invention can have a bending stiffness, measured according to DIN 53362, of 4.9 to 177.7 cN / cm² (5 to 120 p / cm²) and in the warp direction between 0.59 and 3.92 cN / cm² (0.6 to 4 p / cm²), which ensures a good shape of the garment in the chest, shoulder, armhole and armpit area.

The connection of the plack insert according to the invention with a conventional basic patch insert, which serves to reinforce the front parts of clothing, can be done with parallel rows of sewing stitches at a mutual distance of 3-7 cm and with a distance of the sewing stitches of about 1.0-2.5 cm at an angle of the sewing stitch rows 45 ° to the warp direction of the insert. The rows of sewing stitches should be approximately parallel to one another, and the weft side of the insert according to the invention should come into contact with the base sheet insert, so that the fleece side is on the outside and in the finished garment on the lining side. The rows of sewing stitches can, as usual, be carried out in a zigzag stitch.

The cutting of the insert according to the invention and the connection with the conventional base layer insert should take place in such a way that the warp threads of the insert in the finished garment come to lie parallel to a diagonal line from the armpit attachment point on the neck to the armhole hollow point of the garment.

To further simplify the work, it is also possible to provide the insert according to the invention with a grid-shaped hot-melt adhesive coating on the weft thread side in order to be able to fix it on the outer fabric. In order to avoid that a hard, bulky grip occurs, it is advisable to design the grid arrangement much further than with a conventional fixing insert.

Particularly suitable is an adhesive coating with approximately parallel hot melt adhesive dot rows with a distance of the hot melt adhesive points of about 0.5-1.5 cm and with a distance of the dot rows of about 2.5-4 cm and an angle of the dot rows to the warp thread direction of the insert of approx. 45 °. This insert can be affixed to the base plate insert as a black insert so that the warp direction of the base plate insert and the direction of the rows of dots are parallel. Since the hot-melt adhesive coating is on the weft side, the fleece side in the finished garment faces the lining side. With this arrangement, a round, voluminous, non-bulky handle is achieved in the additional reinforcement and at the same time its sufficient adhesion is achieved without the adhesive points being felt. Here, too, the inlay according to the invention should be cut to size and fixed onto the conventional base layer inlay in such a way that the warp threads of the inlay in the finished article of clothing parallel to its diagonal line from Armpit attachment point on the neck to the armhole hollow point.

When connecting the base patch insert by pricking as well as by fixing, the insert according to the invention replaces two patch inserts and the felt or fleece or knitted fleece cover. The entire cardboard insert consisting of a conventional cardboard insert and the cardboard insert according to the invention can be connected in the usual way at the side cut edges of the cardboard insert to the whole part insert fixed on the fabric cut of the item of clothing by adhesive fixing with adhesive tapes or adhesive nets. A narrow adhesive strip can be attached close to the reverse fold line and another narrow adhesive strip can be attached to the cutting curve for the armhole concavity.

The insert according to the invention is advantageously used together with a whole part insert made of a fixable soft knit nonwoven insert, which can consist of a warp knitted fabric, an integrated, weakly consolidated nonwoven, a hot-melt adhesive coating and additionally connected weft threads, the dot coating being on the weft side. This results in an elegant grip gradation and a secure attachment of the entire plastic insert to the side edges of the basic plastic insert.

The nonwovens embedded in the insert according to the invention can be needle-punched nonwovens, hydroentangled nonwovens or spot-welded nonwovens. They can also be formed by needling two or more hydroentangled and / or spot-welded nonwovens of the same or different weight classes. Also it is possible to use a composite of needled, spot-welded or hydroentangled fleece and a thin layer of foam. If spot-welded nonwovens are used, the synthetic proportion of the fibers should be at least 75%. In the case of pure needled or hydroentangled nonwovens, the fibers can also consist of cellulose or cotton. The warp knitted fabric producing the composite of fleece and weft threads can preferably have a non-offset open or preferably closed fringe weave, in which each fringe is connected to the closest one not with threads of the knitted fabric. However, it is also possible to choose an offset fringed binding or a tricot or cloth binding or a combination of tricot and non-offset fringing binding. In this case, the fringes are connected to each other with knitted threads.

The wefts tied to the fleece from the rows of the warp-knitted fabric can contain monifil, multifil or staple fibers. They can be simply twisted yarns, threads or twisted yarns. However, they can also consist of yarns with a soul thread on which staple fibers, e.g. Horsehair are created, which are tied with winding threads, or which soul thread is wound with staple fibers. The fiber material can consist of synthetic, natural or synthetic fibers, such as rayon, glossy yarn, goat hair, horsehair, polyester, polyamide fiber. The proportion of strong fibers should exceed 50% by weight.

The insert according to the invention can also be used, for example, in the shape of a sickle to reinforce and cushion sleeves in the region of the arm balls. In this use, the insert is, for example, a crescent-shaped insert which is fixed in the arm ball area and is preferably made of a soft composite of a textile fiber fleece (which is preferably is needled with a foam film), a warp knit with synthetic threads and soft wefts inserted into the stitches of the warp knit with a hot-melt adhesive dot coating applied on the weft side, applied in the manner of a crescent-shaped blank and sewn to the arm ball cut edges with the arm balls, so that the weft threads of the blank have an angle of about 65-90 ° to the arm bead seam of the finished garment on the side areas of the arm ball and an angle of about 0-35 ° to the seam at the shoulder base. When the insert is sewn in in this way, an inclined cut-out of the insert results in the upper arm ball region near the shoulder attachment, which ensures that the insert can be sewn cleanly and without folds with the arm ball.

Fig. 1

zeigt die erfindungsgemäße Einlage auf einer Ganzteileinlage eines Vorderteils eines zweireihigen Herrensakkos in Draufsicht,

Fig. 2

zeigt einen Ausschnitt der Vorderseite einer ersten Ausführungsform der Einlage in größerem Maßstab;

Fig. 3

zeigt die Rückseite dieser Ausführungsform im Ausschnitt;

Fig. 4

ist ein Querschnitt nach Linie IV-IV in Fig. 3;

Fig. 5

zeigt einen Ausschnitt der Vorderseite einer zweiten Ausführungsform der erfindungsgemäßen Einlage;

Fig. 6

zeigt die Rückseite dieser Ausführungsform im Ausschnitt;

Fig. 7

zeigt eine mögliche Bindung der Maschenstäbchen des Kettgewirks;

Fig. 8

zeigt eine andere mögliche Bindung der Maschenstäbchen des Kettgewirks;

Fig. 9

zeigt abgebrochen dargestellt den Ärmel eines Oberbekleidungsstückes mit einer in die Armlochhohlung eingesetzten Plackeinlage.

The drawing shows two exemplary embodiments of the insert according to the invention and their incorporation into a front part of a double-breasted jacket and armhole fittings, which are described in more detail below:

Fig. 1

shows the insert according to the invention on a whole part insert of a front part of a double-breasted men's jacket in top view,

Fig. 2

shows a section of the front of a first embodiment of the insert on a larger scale;

Fig. 3

shows the back of this embodiment in section;

Fig. 4

is a cross section along line IV-IV in Fig. 3;

Fig. 5

shows a section of the front of a second embodiment of the insert according to the invention;

Fig. 6

shows the back of this embodiment in section;

Fig. 7

shows a possible binding of the wales of the warp knitted fabric;

Fig. 8

shows another possible binding of the wales of the warp knitted fabric;

Fig. 9

shows broken off the sleeve of an outer garment with a plack insert inserted into the armhole hollow.

In the exemplary embodiment shown in FIG. 1, the outer fabric blank 1 of the front part of a double-breasted men's jacket is provided with a whole part insert 2, which is fixed onto the outer fabric blank 1 by means of a hot-melt adhesive coating applied to this insert in the form of a dot matrix. Outer fabric 1 and whole part insert 2 have a cutout 3 for the jacket pocket and a dart 4 for the shape of the jacket front part. In the upper chest and shoulder area of the jacket front part, a base plate insert 5 is placed on the whole part insert 2, which is connected to the whole part insert 2 at its two side cut edges by adhesive fixing with adhesive tapes 6, which on the one hand near the bending line 7 of the jacket 8 and on the other Cutting curve of the armhole 9 are attached. The warp thread direction 10 of this basic patch insert extends approximately parallel to the bending line 7 of the jacket 8, while the weft thread direction 11 extends approximately perpendicularly thereto.

Again on this basic patch insert 5, a plack insert 12 according to the invention is applied as an additional reinforcement, which is connected to the basic patch insert 5 via pricking stitches (sewing stitches) 13. However, a connection is also possible via rows of hot-melt adhesive points applied in the line of pricking stitches. The arrangement of this plack insert 12 on the base pock insert 5 is such that the warp threads of the plack insert lie parallel to a diagonal line 14 from the armpit attachment point 15 on the neck of the jacket to the armhole hollow bottom 16 of the jacket and the weft threads lie parallel to a line 17 perpendicular thereto come.

2 and 3 show sections of the front and the back of the first embodiment of the plack insert according to the invention, in which the fleece 19 is connected to the weft 20 by the stitches 21 of the warp knit in such a way that the weft threads on the front of the stitches 21 (loop stitch side) are involved. The stitches lying one above the other are connected to each other in open or closed fringe formation to form wales 22. FIG. 7 shows the detail of a warp knitted fabric in an open, non-offset fringe weave in a separate representation, while FIG. 8 shows a warp knitted fabric with wales in a closed, non-offset fringe weave.

5 and 6 show cutouts of the front and the back of the second embodiment of the insert according to the invention in cutouts, the fleece 24 being connected to the weft threads 25 by the stitches 26 of the warp knit such that the weft threads are on the back of the stitch (underlay of the stitches) involved are. Here too, the wales 27 of the warp-knitted fabric can have an open, non-offset fringe weave, as shown in FIG. 7, or a closed, non-offset fringe weave, as shown in FIG. 8.

Fig. 9 shows the insert according to the invention for use as additional reinforcement in the form of a so-called sleeve sickle 28, which is inserted in the armhole cavity 29 of the sleeve 30 of an outer garment.

example 1

A commonly used fleece rustling machine with weft insertion is horizontally added a spot-welded, approx. 2 m wide fleece of the weight class 30 g / cm², the fleece fiber thickness 1.2 dtex and the fleece fiber composition 70% polyamide and 30% polyester staple fibers to the knitting tools. At the same time, the laying rails of the Vlies-Raschel machine are fed with 44 dtex multifilament warp threads with 33 fibers per warp thread. The warp material is made of polyester. The warp density is 47 threads per 10 cm. The fleece is connected to the stitches in a stitch formation process via the warp thread-guiding laying rails and the pusher needles that pierce the fleece. A non-offset, closed mesh fringe is formed. A weft thread is inserted and bound in each row of stitches via the weft laying apparatus. The weft and stitch density is 80 threads or stitches / 10 cm. The weft thread material consists alternately of a weft thread made of 40% polyamide and 60% cellulose wool with a thread size of 1100 dtex and a bouncy weft thread made of 19% polyester, 30% cellulose wool and 51% animal hair with a thread size of 1250 dtex. In order to avoid a large loss in the width of the fleece, the fleece is stretched using a roller spreader installed close to the knitting tools inclined control rollers of approx. 300 mm held tight in the transverse direction.

The composite running off the Vlies-Raschel machine is wound up and then washed out hot, padded with an impregnation liquor containing cellulose crosslinking agents, dried and crosslinked at 185 ° C. and heat set. Compression when entering the equipment dryer increases the weft density to 85 threads per 10 cm.

Preferred use as a shoulder pad.

Example 2 Same design as example 1, with the following difference:

A fleece of the weight class 40 g / m² is used. The weft thread material consists alternately of a weft 1250 dtex made of 19% polyester, 30% rayon wool and 51% animal hair and another weft made of glossy multifilament yarn 700 dtex with 10 capillaries, which is wound with a cotton thread 133 dtex. The raw weft density is 120 threads / 10 cm and after finishing and heat setting 130 threads / 10 cm.

Example 3 Same design as example 1, with the following difference:

Use of a nonwoven of the weight class 30 g / m², which is needled with a thin polyurethane ester foam layer with a thickness of 1.8 mm and a weight of 35 g / m².

Preferred use as a sleeve shoulder pad.

Claims (16)

1. Patch inlay as an extra reinforcing inlay for additional reinforcement of the shoulder and arm hole regions of outer garments, consisting of a composite of a textile fibre fleece (19, 24), a warp knit fabric (21, 22, 26, 27) with synthetic multifilament threads, and weft threads, characterised in that

   a) the textile fibre fleece is a slightly compacted fibre fleece (19, 24) with a fibre thickness of 1 to 5 dtex and weight category 30 to 150 g/m²,

   b) the warp knit fabric (21, 22, 26, 27) has a warp thread thickness of 20 to 80 dtex and a fibre thickness of 1 to 3.5 dtex with a warp density of 40 to 70 threads/10 cm and

   c) the weft threads (20, 25) are springy weft threads which are inserted in each row of stitches (21, 22, 26, 27) of the warp knit fabric (21, 22, 26, 27) and have a thread thickness of 300 to 2000 dtex in a weft density of 70 to 130 threads/10 cm and, with a fibre percentage of over 50 wt.%, a fibre thickness of 7 to 1000 dtex.
2. Inlay according to claim 1, characterised in that needle-felted fleeces or water jet-compacted fleeces are contained in the composite.
3. Inlay according to claim 1, characterised in that spot-welded fleeces with a synthetic fibre fraction of over 75% are contained in the composite.
4. Inlay according to claim 1, characterised in that spot-welded and/or water jet-compacted fleeces which are needle-felted together are contained in the composite.
5. Inlay according to claim 1, characterised in that needle-felted, spot-welded or water jet-compacted fleeces which are joined to foam layers are contained in the whole composite.
6. Inlay according to claim 1, characterised in that the warp knit fabric (21) has a non-staggered fringe weave.
7. Inlay according to claim 1, characterised in that the warp knit fabric (21) has a staggered fringe weave.
8. Inlay according to claim 1, characterised in that the weft threads (20) contain springy staple fibres of rayon, goat hair, horse hair or synthetic fibres.
9. Inlay according to claim 1, characterised in that the weft threads (20) contain monofilament or multifilament threads.
10. Inlay according to claim 1, characterised in that in the weft direction it has a bending resistance, measured according to DIN 53362, of 4.9 to 117.7 cN/cm² (5.0 to 120 p/cm²).
11. Inlay according to claim 1, characterised in that it is coated with hot melt adhesive in a matrix of spots on the weft side.
12. Inlay according to claims 1 and 11, characterised in that parallel rows of hot melt adhesive spots are applied to it with a distance between spots of about 0.5-1.5 cm and with a distance between rows of about 2.5-4 cm at an angle of 30° to 60°, preferably about 45°, to the weft direction on the weft side of the inlay.
13. Inlay according to claim 1, which is joined to a main patch inlay (5) which serves to reinforce breast, shoulder, arm hole and/or just shoulder of garments, characterised in that the inlay (12) and the main patch inlay (5) are joined with the weft sides facing each other with more or less parallel rows (13) of sewn stitches which run at an angle to the warp direction (10) of the inlay of 30 to 60°, preferably about 45°, and are inserted more or less parallel to the warp direction of the main patch inlay, wherein the stitches of the rows of sewn stitches have a mutual spacing of about 1.0 to 2.5 cm and the rows of sewn stitches have a mutual spacing of about 3 to 7 cm.
14. Inlay according to claims 1 and 11, which is joined to a main patch inlay (5) which serves to reinforce breast, shoulder, arm hole and/or just shoulder of garments, characterised in that the inlay (12) is fixed to the main patch inlay (5) by its hot melt adhesive coating and in that the warp threads of the main patch inlay are arranged more or less parallel to the rows of hot melt adhesive spots of the inlay in the hot melt adhesive-bonded composite.
15. Inlay according to claim 14, joined to a main patch inlay (5) which is joined at its cut edges to a whole-piece inlay (2) fixed onto an outer garment piece, characterised in that its joint with the main patch inlay (5) has such an arrangement that its warp threads in the outer garment come to lie parallel to a diagonal line (14) from the point (15) of attachment of the shoulder to the neck, to the lowest point (16) of the arm hole of the garment.
16. Inlay according to claim 1, which is applied in the form of a crescent-shaped reinforcement of the sleeve (30) of an outer garment in the shoulder region, to a correspondingly cut-out base inlay fixed to the sleeve fabric, characterised in that the patch inlay (28) which is cut out in a crescent shape is applied to the base inlay and sewn to the shoulder portions of the sleeve at the cut edges of the shoulder portion in such a way that the weft threads of the patch inlay in the side regions of the shoulder portion of the sleeve have an angle of about 65-90° to the sleeve top seam of the garment and in the upper region have an angle of about 0-35° to the seam at the shoulder attachment of the outer garment.

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