US3585645A

US3585645A - Processed interlining for use in garment

Info

Publication number: US3585645A
Application number: US806396A
Authority: US
Inventors: Toshihiro Moriwaki
Original assignee: SUGIYAMA KK
Current assignee: SUGIYAMA KK
Priority date: 1968-04-16
Filing date: 1969-03-12
Publication date: 1971-06-22
Anticipated expiration: 1988-06-22

Abstract

THIS INVENTION RELATES TO A PROCESSED INTERLINING FOR USE IN A GARMENT, SAID PROCESSED INTERLINING BEING ADAPTED TO FREELY PRODUCE ALL FORMS OF SWELLING REQUIRED OF THE GARMENT IN AN OUTER FABRIC OF THE GARMENT BY USE OF A SINGLE SHEET OF PROCESSED INTERLINING BY FORMING A PLURALITY OF TRANSVERSE SLITS IN SPACED ROWS ONE ABOVE ANOTHER THEREIN AND LEAVING SAID SLITS CUT OPEN IN THE PROCESSED INTERLINING.

Description

J n 1971 TOSHIHIRO MORlWAKl 3,535,545

PROCESSED INTERLINING FOR USE IN GARMENT 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed March 12, 1969 FIG.

FIG. 2

IIIIIIII" IIII'II') IIIII'I' l M W M 7. 7 4 0 1 wi m M kn I June 22, v1971 TOSHIHIRO MORIWAKI 3,535,645

PROCESSED INTERLINING FOR USE INGARMENT Filed March 12, 1969 s Sheets-Sheet 2 :J r T j N In 111/ (/5!!! 70/? %SH/////?O fl/OR/ M14 NI Z'Yf.

June 22, 1971 TOSHIHIRO MQRIWAKI I 5 55 I PROCESSED INTERLINING LFOR USE IN 'QARMENT Filed March 1969 Sheets-Sheet 5 Fl G. 6 F I G. 7 v (Prior Art) 9 Y 8" FIG. 8'

(Prior Art) [N VIIN'IUR.

755 H/ /60 WHK/ United States Patent Gee 3,585,645 PROCESSED INTERLINING FOR USE IN GARMENT Toshihiro Moriwaki, Suita-shi, Osaka-fu, Japan, assignor to Kabushiki Kaisha Sugiyama, Osaka-fu, Japan Filed Mar. 12, 1969, Ser. No. 806,396 Claims priority, application Japan, Mar. 30, 1968, 43/25,672; Aug. 7, 1968, 43/56,046; Dec. 11, 1968, 43/90,807

Int. Cl. A41d 27/02 US. Cl. 2-272 12 Claims ABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSURE This invention relates to a processed interlining for use in a garment, said processed interlining being adapted to freely produce all forms of swelling required of the garment in an outer fabric of the garment by use of a single sheet of processed interlining by forming a plurality of transverse slits in spaced rows one above another therein and leaving said slits cut open in the processed interlining.

This invention relates to a processed interlining of a garment intended to reinforce the garment in the front and improve it in appearance by sewing the interlining to the backside of an outer fabric of the garment, such as mens suit, womens dress, childrens wear, etc. and more particularly to a processed interlining capable of expressing a free body contour by giving a swelling of desired height to the outer fabric by forming slits extending only laterally in a single sheet of interlining.

Referring to the described type of processed interlining in conventional use with reference to FIGS. 7 and 8 in which is illustrated an example of the processed interlining P used in the front of mens suit, the processed interlining P comprises a base interlining A cut into the desired size and backside interlinings C and D sewn to the backside of the base interlining A for a reinforcing purpose, and when this processed interlining P is sewn to an outer fabric (not shown) of the same size as the interlining P, it is a general practice to form darts B in suitable places of the base interlining A along the longitudinal darts of the outer fabric in order to give suitable swelling to the breast portion of the outer fabric. In the darts B of a prior art type processed interlining, as shown in FIG. 7, slits b chiefly extending longitudinally are formed at specified points of the base interlining A, i.e. at points corresponding to the darts of the outer fabric and sewn at b by a zigzag sewing machine in the state of the fabric on this portion being stitched up, and as shown in FIG. 8, a backside interlining C having darts B formed therein in the same manner as said interlining A and a backside interlining D having no dart formed therein are respectively placed on and sewn integrally to the backside of the base interlining A.

Meantime, it has been a current practice with garment makers that garment making is divided between those who specialize in cutting and sewing and those who specialize in the manufacture of interlinings P and that accordingly the processed interlinings P are generally sold by makers different from the garment makers and who exclusively make various interlinings adapted to dilferent body contours and the garment makers place an order with the interlining makers for various processed interlinings.

Since the processed interlining P of a conventional type is of the construction described and is placed on the market route described, the swelling formed in the processed interlining by darts B naturally becomes definite in shape and it becomes utterly impossible to produce more of swelling effect than is beforehand fixedly formed in Patented June 22, 1971 the processed interlining P in sewing the interlining to an outer fabric by use of the processed interlining, and accordingly the garment makers feel the inconvenience that they have to place a special order with the interlining makers for a processed interlining of a contour adapted to the form of swelling needed each time. Furthermore, the darts B are beforehand fixed also in position, and accordingly when the processed interlining is sewn to the outer fabric, a base interlining A and the outer fabric must be squared to each other at two points of a shoulder portion or collarbone portion and darts B On this point also not only a multiplicity of sizes of processed interlinings are required but, as described, the processed interlining P of a known type makes it necessary to form darts both in the base interlining A and in a backside interlining C and to apply sewing b to the darts, thus involving the disadvantage that making of the whole of an interlining is rendered troublesome, and that moreover the frequent use of interlinings formed chiefly of cotton yarns as warp shrinks the interlining itself in the direction of warp by repeated laundering, thereby bringing an outer fabric itself out of shape.

In short, since the known type interlining itself is of a ready-made type while an outer fabric of a garment is of an order-made type, garment makers have to keep a large stock of processed interlinings adapted for a multiplicity of contours in order to form order-made swelling by sewing the interlining to the outer fabric. In this way they have to put up with such fatal inconveniences and other disadvantages described in conjunction with the manufacture of the interlining itself and which take shape during use.

A primary object of this invention therefore is to provide a useful processed interlining capable of freely producing the swelling of the outer fabric of a garment at all times by use of a single sheet of interlining.

Another object of the invention is to provide a processed interlining in which the mere making of slits can dispense with darts in the interlining and hence making of the whole of the interlining is made extremely easy.

Another object of the invention is to provide a processed interlining that can dispense with all that is necessary for interlining operation for sewing an interlining to an outer fabric of a garment except for squaring the interlining with the outer fabric on a shoulder portion alone, thus facilitating sewing operation.

Still another object of the invention is to provide a processed interlining that is free from shrinking longitudinally of the interlining and thus does not bring a garment out of shape after a long lapse of time or by absorption of water even when cotton or other yarns having relatively high shrinkability by water are used as warp.

These and other objects and advantages of the invention will become more apparent from the following description taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawings in which:

FIG. 1 is a front view showing a processed interlining in one form of the invention;

FIG. 2 is an enlarged sectional view taken along the line II of FIG. 1;

FIG. 3 is a front view showing the state of a processed interlining being slightly extended in the upper and lower directions thereof from the position shown in FIG. 1;

FIG. 4 is a rear view of the interlining shown in FIG. 3 and the backside interlining of which is in part cut away;

FIG. 5 is a perspective view showing the state of the processed interlining of the invention of FIG. 1 being sewn to the outer fabric of a garment;

FIG. 6 is a front view showing a processed interlining in another form of the invention;

3 FIG. 7 is a front view of a processed interlining of a conventional type;

FIG. 8 is an enlarged sectional view taken along the line IIII of FIG. 7; and

FIG. 9 is a front view showing another form of the processed interlining of the invention.

As apparent from the drawings, the processed interlining of the invention comprises transverse slits suitably formed in spaced rows one above another in a base interlining instead of the darts that have conventionally been formed, said slits not being stitched up but being left cut open with the base interlining sewn to the processed interlining. That is to say, FIGS. 1 through 4 show by way of example an embodiment of a processed interlining for use in the front of a garment similar to that of a conventional type. The processed interlining 9 shown as the embodiment comprises a base interlining 1 sewn integrally to

backside interlinings

2, 3 and 3 by stitches 4 said interlining 1 being shown as an example in which a conventional interlining woven of war 7 and weft 8 is used, said Warp 7 being chiefly cotton and said weft 8 being wool, chemical synthetic fibers, etc. The

numerals

2 and 3 designate backside interlinings placed on the backside of a breast portion 11 for keeping transverse tension and they are sewn integrally to the base interlining 1 so as to be interfacially slidable to some degree with respect to the base interlining 1 by loose sewing in the form of stitches 4 The numeral 3 indicates a backside interlining for reinforcement such as a piece of bias sleek cloth placed downwardly of the base interlining 1 for preventing the interlining 1 from being stretched more than is necessary. The base interlining 1 is provided with a suitable number of transverse slits 5 formed in spaced rows one above another, said slits being shown herein as horizontal ones. These slits are left cut open without being seamed. The slits 5 are formed beforehand in suitable numbers and length after necessary vertical stretchability is taken into full consideration. However, it is a general and proper practice to form four slits on a breast portion 11 and three slits on a skirt portion 12. Furthermore, as shown, there is provided a spacious portion including no slit therein between the breast portion 11 and the skirt portion 12, said spacious portion 10 being a position corresponding to a waistline. As a backside interlining 2 is generally used a woven fabric having no transverse tension such as a haircloth interlining and transverse slits 5 similar to those in the base interlining 1 are formed in the backside interlining 2. As a backside interlining 3 is generally used felt having no slit formed therein for improving the contact of the base interlining 1 with the outer fabric. Also, as a backside interlining 3 is, as described, used a piece of bias sleek cloth without slits being formed therein. But in case the backside interlining 2 is made of a fabric having vertical stretchability like the bias sleek cloth, the slits may be dispensed with.

Since the processed interlining 9 of the invention is of the construction described in which a suitable number of horizontal slits 5 are formed in spaced rows one above another, the interlining 9 is utterly flat without anything special being applied thereto, and yet it freely permits vertical stretching of the base interlining 1 over a considerable area because of the slits 5 formed in the upper and lower portions of the interlining 9. Ancordingly, when the base interlining 1 is placed together with the likewise

stretchable backside interlinings

2, 3 and 3 flat on the backside of an outer fabric S in the step of interlining operation shown in FIG. 5 and the processed interlining 9 of the invention is sewn to the outer fabric S along a line of sewing 6 along which the interlining 9 is to be sewn to an outer fabric, the processed interlining 9 makes it possible for the outer fabric S having the interlining 9 sewn thereto to freely produce the swelling required of the outer fabric S within the range of vertical stretching permitted by the slits 5 formed in the processed interlining 9 of the invention. Accordingly, if the number, length, and direction of the slits 5 are selected in anticipation of all possible forms of swellings to be produced, garment makers are relieved of the trouble and waste of money with which they have to keep a large stock of processed interlinings and can produce all forms of swellings in a garment by use of only one processed interlining 9, thereby making a garment that fits a man of any posture by dint of a naturally formed swelling adapted to any position. Furthermore, since the processed interlining 9 of the invention is made of warp 7 which is intersected everywhere by horizontal slits 5 even when it absorbs water in washing or becomes worn out, the garment lined with the interlining 9 does not get out of shape because the interlining 9 is not shrunk in the direction of warp. Moreover, since the interlining 9 of the invention is sewn to an outer fabric S in a flat state, sewing operation can be easily performed. Another feature of the invention is that the interlining 9 has no dart formed therein and that therefore interlining operation with respect to the outer fabric can be easily performed by squaring the interlining 9 with the outer fabric on a shoulder portion alone, thus not only interlining operation being facilitated but also storage of interlinings over a long period of time does not bring a garment out of shape, and moveover garment makers are relieved of the trouble of stitching up darts, which, ,in turn, makes the production of interlining itself sufiiciently easy to place it on a mass production level.

This invention eradicates the disadvantages inherent in prior art processed interlinings and provides the advantages of the kind described.

The description above has been made with reference to a preferred embodiment of the invention, but it should be understood that the following modifications can be made in the invention.

(1) The slits in the base interlining need not always be horizontal or similar ones but may be formed into sloping ones. See FIG. 9.

(2) The slits in the base interlining may be formed by cutting the interlining on the edge, leaving suitable length and width of each slit open and seaming the other portion of the slit as is shown in FIG. 6.

(3) The base interlining may be made of a nonwoven fabric besides a warp-weft woven fabric.

(4) In the case of the modification referred to in point 1 in which slits may be formed in a sloping relation with respect to the base interlining, a backside interlining having no slit formed therein may be used and the weft of said backside interlining may be placed in parallel to the sloping slits of the base interlining, thereby reinforcing the base interlining in a transverse (sloping) direction.

(5) The backside interlining need not necessarily be used in the form of two sheets but may be one sheet in so far as some other suitable reinforcing means is employed. But in this case said one sheet must be vertically stretchable.

(6) The backside interlining is to be a fabric selected from a group of a haircloth interlining, felt, bias sleek cloth, and nonwoven fabric.

(7) The number of interlinings may be only one sheet when a base interlining is sufficient in strength or when there is no need of strong reinforcement.

(8) A suitable combination of the modifications referred to above or changes and modifications may be made in the structure of the processed interlining of the invention without departing from the scope and spirit of the invention as will hereinafter be claimed.

As described, the processed interlining provided by this invention is very useful as an interlining for improving the appearance of and strengthening the structure of various types of garments, such as mcns suit, womens dress, childrens wear and the like.

What I claim is:

1. A processed interlining for a garment adapted to be sewn to the backside of the outer fabric of the garment to provide the garment with the desired shape in the torso covering area, the processed interlining being elongated, normally flat and stretchable in the longitudinal direction thereof and comprising at least one elongated, normally fiat base interlining being stretchable in the longitudinal direction thereof, said base interlining having at least one group of a plurality of rows of open slits at one end thereof defining a breast-shape forming portion, at least one group of a plurality of rows of open slits at the other end thereof defining a skirt-shape forming portion and a waist portion therebetween free from slits, said rows and the slits therein being transverse to said longitudinal direction, each of said groups of rows being arranged to produce a swelling of the desired shape when the processed interlining is sewn to the outer fabric while stretched in the longitudinal direction.

2. A processed interlining for a garment according to claim 1 in which at least one elongated backside interlining stretchable in the longitudinal direction is sewn integrally to the backside of said base interlining.

3. In a garment portion comprising an outer fabric sewed to a processed interlining, the processed interlining providing the garment portion with the desired shape, the improvement which consists of an elongated, longitudinally stretched processed interlining having open slits and being sewn to the outer fabric to maintain the processed interlining in the stretched condition, the processed interlining being elongated, normally fiat and stretchable in the longitudinal direction thereof and comprising at least one elongated, normally flat base interlining being stretchable in the longitudinal direction thereof, said base interlining having at least one group of a plurality of rows of open slits, said rows and the slits therein being transverse to said longitudinal direction, each of said groups of rows being arranged to produce a swelling of the desired shape when the processed interlining is stretched in the longitudinal direction.

4. The garment portion according to claim 3 in which said slits are perpendicular to said longitudinal direction.

5. The garment according to claim 3 in which said slits are formed at an angle to said longitudinal direction.

'6. The garment portion according to claim 3 in which said slits are not continued to any of the longitudinal edges of the base interlining.

7. The garment portion according to claim 3 in which said slits are continued to either of the longitudinal edges of the base interlining and the slits on said either of the longitudinal edges are sewn together with suitable widths of openings of the slits remote from said edge left open.

8. The garment portion according to claim 3 in which said base interlining has a breast-shape forming portion at one end and a skirt-shape forming portion at the other end and a waist portion therebetween, said slits being provided in suitable numbers both on the breast portion and on the skirt portion, and no slits are provided in the waist portion.

9. The garment portion according to claim 3 in which said base interlining is made of a warp-weft woven fabric.

10. The garment portion according to claim 3 in which said base interlining is made of a non-woven fabric.

11. The garment portion according to claim 3 in which at least one elongated backside interlining stretchable in the longitudinal direction is sewn integrally to the backside of said base interlining.

12. A processed interlining for a garment according to claim 11 in which said backside interlining is at least one sheet selected from a warp-weft woven or nonwoven fabric and transverse slits similar to those of the base interlining are provided therein.

References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 2,346,318 4/1944 Marx 6921 2,735,426 2/1956 Claydon 161117UX 2,800,423 7/1957 De Swart 161--1l2X FOREIGN PATENTS 537,436 2/1957 Canada 2-243 1,062,516 12/1953 France 2-243 ALFRED R. GUEST, Primary Examiner UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE CERTIFICATE OF CORRECTION Patent No. 3,585,645 Dated June 22, 1221 Inventor(s) TOShihirO Mbriwaki It is certified that error appeera in the above-identified patent and that said Letters Patent are hereby corrected as shown below:

Column 1, line 4, after "assignor" insert Of a 50% interest Signed and sealed this 7th day of December 1971 EAL) Attest:

ROBERT GOTTSCHALK EDWFW M.WLEWUHWH,JH.

Acting Commissioner of Patents &tt "ting Officer