CN1933805B - 减少因衰老而出现的皱纹的化妆品或皮肤用药 - Google Patents
减少因衰老而出现的皱纹的化妆品或皮肤用药 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN1933805B CN1933805B CN2004800199378A CN200480019937A CN1933805B CN 1933805 B CN1933805 B CN 1933805B CN 2004800199378 A CN2004800199378 A CN 2004800199378A CN 200480019937 A CN200480019937 A CN 200480019937A CN 1933805 B CN1933805 B CN 1933805B
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- skin
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- peptide
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Abstract
本发明涉及一种新的肽衍生物,特别是用于化妆品或皮肤用药的组合物,使用所述组合物来防止衰老带来的皮肤症状并刺激皮肤健康,前述的肽衍生物,弹性蛋白片断,被单独或与其它活性成分一起用在化妆品可接受的介质中。
Description
技术领域:
本项专利发明与新型的肽衍生物技术紧密相关,即通过局部使用化妆品或皮肤用药合成物来防止由于衰老而造成的皮肤综合症,并刺激皮肤的再生。将肽衍生物或弹性蛋白碎片单独使用,或者与其他有效的成分共同使用实现极佳的化妆效果。
背景技术:
人们见面时,第一眼所能看到的就是对方的皮肤,因此它是大家永远关心的一个话题。
现在,人们对皮肤生理学的认知水平已经达到了能通过化妆品来调解由外部创伤或衰老而导致的各种皮肤功能紊乱的程度。
皮肤衰老综合症的具体症状有:出现皱纹、皮肤干燥、粗糙、变薄和松弛等。如何能治疗这些综合症是当今科研机构和化妆品市场所要面临的一个重要课题。
外部或内在因素直接导致了衰老症状的出现:由于胶原合成或大分子组织结缔的放缓,而被光照后产生的蛋白酶解却加速运行,使得皮肤变薄、变干,失去弹性。
现在人类已生产了多种多样的化妆品用来改善面部皮肤,如各种保湿品、防皱霜、润肤露和护理液等。不过这些产品通常都有副作用,且不太稳定,往往不能在短期内达到所承诺的效果,尤其是那些通过萃取维生素和植物精华方法的产品就更是如此。
发明内容:
此项专利发明的目的就是要解决由上述症状和技术问题所造成的化妆美容难题。
发表在2000年第22期国际化妆品科学期刊的第207到218页上的由K.Lintner和O.Peschard合著的《生物活性肽》一文中已经描述了在化妆品领域所使用的某些肽及其衍生物。
根据最新发现,含有肽衍生物的化妆品所对应的寡肽基本结构的编码序列表1如下:
R1-(AA)n-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly-R(序列识别号1,2,3,4)(AA)n是一个肽链,而(AA)是氨基酸或其衍生物,而N位于0到3之间,R1是氢或者烷基链,从C2到C22,是直链或者支链的,饱和或不饱和,羟基化或非羟基化,含硫或不含硫,或者是生物素基团。
R是OR2或者NR3R4,R2是氢或者C1到C24优选是C1到C3或者C14 到C18的烷基链,而R3或R4是各自独立的氢原子或是C1到C12的烷基链,在与皮肤衰老做斗争的过程中所发挥的作用要远高于其他物质。所有这些分子,除了当R1=H,R=OH且n=0之外,都是此次最新发现的。
为了配合此项专利发明的另一个目标而提供的新型化妆品和皮肤治疗合成物,主要是针对面部皮肤的护理,其主要特点就是,包含了上述编码序列表1中至少一种具有极佳美容效果的肽衍生物。
如果在使用化妆品或皮肤用药合成物时发现新的分子后能够配合使用其他活性和增效的成分的话,美容效果还能得到进一步加强,减少皱纹,增加皮肤中的水份,使皮肤紧绷且厚度适中,更具吸引力。当今还没有一种化妆品或药剂能有此专利发明的这些优点。
此项专利发明主要有两个目的,即生产或使用护理皮肤和头皮的化妆品或皮肤用药合成物,尤其是要治疗皮肤衰老和刺激皮肤再生。神经酰胺是皮肤中重要的油脂分子,而且也属于皮肤护理合成物。经研究证实,将神经酰胺和肽或者肽衍生物配合使用所产生的防皱效果,将会比单独使用肽更加有效。这是一个很出人意料的结果,因为神经酰胺通常是被用于治疗干燥和皲裂的皮肤的。
此项专利发明还有一个目的就是对皮肤进行保养和护理,尤其是因衰老而出现皱纹,具体行动包括对需要护理的部位施用合适剂量的药剂。此项专利发明的其他特点和优势在下文中有详细叙述。
肽Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly是弹性蛋白的一段序列,也是弹性蛋白中最频繁一段序列;它的趋化活动(吸引在发炎或结疤部位的纤维原细胞)发表在1984年第99期细胞生物学期刊的第870到874页上Senior所著的论文上。肽的衍生化导致了更多的亲脂结构,这就使肽衍生物对皮肤组织的穿透力变得更强,从而使得化妆品借助肽衍生物的帮助渗透入皮肤组织当中。在此专利发明的研究工程中,还发现了棕榈酰Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly-OH(序列识别号6)的衍生物(仍然被标记为Pal-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly-OH,Pal-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly,Pal-VGVAPG)具有化妆疗效,它可以调节和改善颈部和脸部的皮肤。通过其调节,使皮肤更加滋润。
通过与神经酰胺的配合使用,使得皮肤状况得到了改善。根据发表在1984年第84期达马托投资期刊第410到412页上Wertz的文章,从皮 肤的外表层来看,神经酰胺是复合脂类,尤其是神经酰胺1、3和从4到7。神经酰胺的分子式A如下:
Formule A Formule B
分子式A 分子式B
虽然其基本结构会被改变和衍生,如分子式B。具生物活性和细胞渗透性的非生理性神经酰胺类似物是哺乳类动物的糖脂、磷脂和神经磷脂中的一部分。其他被推荐的神经酰胺包括三羟棕榈酸羟丙基醚、二氢鞘氨醇和肉豆蔻基丝氨酸等。根据专利发明,其他有效的神经酰胺包括上述分子式A中的R6酰基族是从C14到C22的脂肪酸链(在分子式B中被(CH2)16CH3所替代)。在分子式A中的R7从C14到C22可能是相同或不同的脂肪酸链。这个脂肪酸链是饱和或不饱和的,可替代的或不可替代的,直链或者支链的。那些只有10个以下碳原子的R6神经酰胺不符合标准。
我们为了解它们的成分和美容效果而做了大量的工作。神经酰胺强化了皮肤的保护层,并控制水分流入角膜层(引自1997年第19期国际化妆品科学期刊的第15到25页上Lintner的文章)。现在已经证实,将肽与神经酰胺共同用于化妆或皮肤药品中能够将神经酰胺产品的抗衰老功效显著增强,并明显减少皮肤的皱纹。尤其是此化妆品能够被用来防止皱纹。这意味着当将肽和/或其衍生物与神经酰胺一同使用就能大幅度增加抗衰老的功效。现在很可能会出现这样的问题,如更多地减少皱纹,增强功效,有可能会刺激或抑制生化技术对皮肤的改善。神经酰胺能够充分改善肽和/或其衍生物的抗衰老功效。
要想验证专利发明,就要将有效成分添加进合格的化妆或皮肤药品中,在需要化妆的脸部施用充足和有效的剂量,时间从两周到两个月或更久。肽和其衍生物既可以通过传统的化学合成(均匀或非均匀阶段),也可以利用氨基酸或其衍生物进行酶催化合成(引自1980年第255期生物化学期刊的第8234页上Kullman所著的文章)。
为增进肽的生物药效率和皮肤循环作用,我们可以利用羧基族的酯化作用和醇一起,直链或者支链的、饱和或不饱和、羟基化或非羟基化、 来构成H-X-Y-OR2其中R2等于从C1到C24的烷基链,最好是从C1到C3或者从C14到C18或者是通过胺来构成H-X-Y-NR3R4酰胺化,R3或R4是相互独立的氢或者从C1到C24,碳原子最好是1到3个之间。
R1-(AA)n-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly-R(序列识别号1,2,3,4)(AA)n是一个肽链,而(AA)是氨基酸或其衍生物,而N位于0到3之间,R1是氢或者烷基链,从C2到C22,直链或者支链的,饱和或不饱和,羟基化或非羟基化,含硫或不含硫,或者是生物素基族。
R是OR2或者NR3R4,R2是氢或者烷基链,从C1到C24,优选是从C1到C3或者从C14到C18,而R3和R4是各自独立的,氢或者是从C1到C12的烷基链。
在能够实现此项专利发明的状态下,R1是月桂酰链(C12)(序列识别号7和8),或者是肉豆蔻酰链(C14)(序列识别号9,10),或者是硬脂酰链(C18)(序列识别号11,12),或是油酰链(C18:1)(序列识别号13,14),或是花生醇链(C20)(序列识别号15,16),或是二亚油酰(C18:2)(序列识别号17,18),其中n=0或1,而R2是氢或甲基,或乙基,或者R是NR3R4,R3=R4=氢或甲基。
此项专利发明中的活性衍生物包含酰基衍生物和其他成分,例如是从乙酸、发酸、月桂酸、肉豆蔻酸、辛酸、棕榈酸、硬脂酸、山嵛酸、亚油酸、油酸、异硬脂酸、二癸二酸,椰子脂肪酸、棕榈油脂肪酸、羊毛脂肪酸等衍生而来的。酰基族中包括乙酰基族、棕榈酰族、肉豆蔻基族、生物酰族、和二辛酰基族等。
肽及其衍生物可以通过化学合成,也可以通过细菌发酵获得,通过基因工程进行改变或者不改变,来制造出所需的序列表或不同的碎片。最后,肽可以从动物或蔬菜的基因中提取碎片,通过水解控制,含酶或不含的,来释放肽碎片,(AA)n-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly-R,其中n位于0到3之间,从而在其结构中包含着其序列。
要想实现专利发明,有可能,但不是必须,先提取蛋白质,然后进行水解,或者先对原材料进行水解并使肽碎片洁净。在保证已及时中止了的酶的水解反应并通过合适的检验手段(如放射性跟踪、免疫荧光或使用某种抗体的免疫沉淀反应等)测量了所出现的肽后,我们也可以不提取肽碎片而只是水解。在掌握了对于蛋白质和肽的提取和净化专业知识后,采用更加简单的措施或者更为复杂的手段,会分别带来较便宜的或较纯净的产品。
下面的肽代表了肽的6种类似物或更多的胺,但不仅限于此,Elaidoyl-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly(序列识别号17),Palmitoyl-Ala-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly(序列识别号20),Acetyl -Ile-Ala-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly(序列识别号21)。尤其是含有肽的N-acyl-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly(序列识别号4),以及更加特殊的Palmitoyl-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly(序列识别号6)。
上面描述的肽的弹性蛋白碎片或其衍生物根据专利发明被用于化妆品中,其浓度从0.00001%到10%(p/p),最好在0,0001%到1%(p/p)之间(p/p就是指肽的质量跟总质量之比)。另一个主要区间是0.001%到5%(p/p)。其他的区间是1ppm到500ppm。
根据本专利发明,化妆品或皮肤药品包含了分子式1中一个或几个肽或其衍生物,以及至少一个神经酰胺。在肽和神经酰胺配合使用时,神经酰胺的变量从0.00001%到10%(p/p),最好能在0,0001%到1%(p/p)之间。另外一个组合中,肽代表的数量在100到400ppm(p/p)之中,而神经酰胺则在1%到8%之间。
R1就像棕榈酰一样属于酰基族,而当肽与神经酰胺共同使用时,R2 是氢。本项专利发明就是要将一种或多种肽与本文中所提到的所有神经酰胺,及其类似物或衍生物混合使用,这样就会使得皮肤衰老的一个或多个症状得到的改善,尤其是在减少皱纹上非常有效,特别是使用了足够剂量的神经酰胺中的N-酰基神经鞘氨醇和N-酰基二氢鞘氨醇及其类似物或衍生物,以及更受青睐的N-硬脂酰鞘氨醇。
根据此项专利发明的一个特定状态,化妆品中含有肽的Palmitoyl-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-GlyOH(序列识别号6),其浓度从0.0001%到0.01%(p/p),而以N-硬脂酰鞘氨醇形式出现的神经酰胺则从0.001%到10%(p/p)。其他对肽有效的区间是从0.001%到5%(p/p),而对神经酰胺是从0.01%到1.0%。要达到本专利发明的一个要求,六肽数量为0.002%,而神经酰胺2则是4%(p/p)。在油基的基础上能够得出其运算公式。
现在商业市场上的合成药包含了六肽的衍生物的是法国Sederma公司生产的先进生化成份激活素和BIOPEPTIDE EL,其包含了从10到500ppm的palmitoyl-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly(序列识别号6)和大约4%(p/p)的油基神经酰胺2,它是100%的N-硬脂酰鞘氨醇,与N-硬脂酰二氢鞘氨醇很相似。这些合成物可以被按照此项专利发明来制造合成药。
其他的神经酰胺和所谈到的肽衍生物序列都可以不受此项专利发明的限制而自由发挥其优势。尤其是将本专利发明中的肽及其衍生物与下面所讲到的活性成分相结合,就更能体现出本专利发明的优势。
根据本专利发明,不论是单独使用肽或是与其他一种或多种神经酰胺混合为护肤产品,也不管是短期或是长期,都能有效地减少皱纹。这些合成药是局部涂抹的防皱产品,尤其是针对面部和手部的皮肤。虽然 所有的肽,尤其是与神经酰胺合用时能够被用在香波、清新剂或是多用途清洁剂中。它被用于这些更加传统的防皱产品中能够补充其防皱功效。这就是使用这些防皱因子的首要原因。由于肽跟神经酰胺还有其他的特性,它们还可以被用在洗发皂、空气清新剂、防紫外线装置、发胶和下述其他不具防皱特性的产品中。
马曲金是肽的碎片,其序列一股低于或等于20个氨基酸,通过进行基质蛋白酶解治疗皮肤创伤。
六肽VGVAPG是通过弹性蛋白酶来水解弹性蛋白,也是马曲金的一种,能够促使纤维组织还原和细胞增生,因此对于皮肤再生尤为重要。在皮肤再生过程中,它能调集多种和大量的细胞:粒细胞、肥大细胞、内皮细胞、血小板、角化细胞和单核细胞等。而这些细胞并不在同一受损的部位,因此要使它们能够协调一致地及时达到受损部位。这种对细胞发信号的学科被称为化学分类学:即发出一个化学信号吸引目标细胞,使其达到指定的区域。细胞识别出发出趋化性分子,根据浓度的梯度游动过去。趋化性分子有很多种(细胞因子、短序列肽和肿瘤坏死因子-α等)。
棕榈酰-VGVAPG(序列识别号6)具有等候马曲金的特性:通过对金属蛋白的调节的化学向性、细胞增生和钙运动、基质再处理。这些特性都在抗衰老的护肤化妆品中得到了体现,从而进行真皮重造并使其富有弹性。
我们很惊异地发现某些分子式1中的成分具有趋化性的特定。本专利发明使用的化妆或皮肤治疗合成物含有一种或多种分子式1中的成分,用来刺激皮肤的再生,重组和重建真皮。本专利发明特意使用了至少一种具有趋化性的分子式1中的成分,或者在化妆或皮肤治疗合成物中含有至少一种具有趋化性的分子式1中的成分。而且用于刺激皮肤愈合的成分很可能是分子式1中R1来作为棕榈酰基。
例如根据专利发明,添加大量天然的神经酰胺-神经酰胺2,使皮肤再生,并做保湿处理,利用角化细胞的保护性并增加其它的功能,加强肽衍生物-Pal-VGVAPG(即马曲金弹性蛋白)(序列识别号6)的功效。这种联系通过趋化性、纤维原细胞增殖和对基质纤维重组的刺激功能,使得再造真皮的功效得到增强。
根据专利发明所生产出的产品有沐浴液、润肤剂或润肤乳、皮肤或头发的护理剂或护发乳、清洁剂或清洁乳、染发剂、防晒剂、古铜色涂油、剃须膏、香波、口红、睫毛膏和指甲油等等。
这些产品不仅包括化妆用的口红,而且还有防皲裂的唇膏,以及用于眼部化妆品和面部粉底霜等。
这些产品中乳浊液分为水油型或油水型,脂肪中主要由合成或提取的多脂成分构成,至少有一个油分子和其他油脂。乳浊液中脂肪含量占总重量的5%到60%。
上述的乳浊液中的水含量占总重量的30%到85%。乳化剂的成分可占1%到20%,而最佳的比例是2%到12%。当产品以油膏,油醇,或水醇形式出现时,它们可以构成含有可以吸收紫外线的防晒霜,皮肤润泽药,而油膏还能形成油泡沫,能使油溶解,进行清洗等。
那些主要的添加剂中,我们主要谈谈有机或萃取液,包括MP-diol和聚丙三醇,对油脂物进行萃取或合成,有离子或非离子增稠剂、磨砂膏、染发膏、稳定剂、润肤剂、硅润滑剂或者柔肤美白晚霜。防泡沫因子、保湿因子、维生素、香水、防腐剂、螯合剂、染料、胶凝和纤维胶聚合体、表面活性剂和乳液,以及其他水溶和脂溶的活性因子、植物、纤维、海洋精华,防晒剂和抗氧化剂等。
从乙醇、异丙醇、丙烯乙二醇、丙三醇和山梨醇中特别挑选出单元或多元醇。
在矿物油中,我们可以找出矿油;而在动物油中有鲸鱼、鲨鱼、海豹、鲱鱼、大比目鱼、鳕鱼、金枪鱼、乌龟、牛蹄、马蹄、羊蹄、貂、水獭、土拨鼠油等;在植物油中有杏仁、麦芽、加州希蒙得木、芝麻、向日葵、棕榈、坚果、非洲酪脂树、澳洲坚果、黑醋栗果仁油和类似的植物油。在脂肪酸酯中有从C12到C22饱和或未饱和的酸酯,以及低度醇中的异丙醇或丙三醇,或者是脂性醇中从C8到C22线性的或分枝的,饱和或未饱和,或者是alcanediols-1,2中的C10-C22。我们还能从油脂物中找出矿油、石蜡、羊毛脂、加氢的羊毛脂、牛脂、乙酰羊毛脂和硅树脂等。
在蜡中,我们可以找到Sipol牌蜡、羊毛脂蜡、蜂蜡、蜡大戟、单晶蜡、巴西棕榈蜡、鲸蜡、可可蜡、非洲酪脂蜡、硅树蜡、25℃的加氢油凝固蜡、蔗糖丙三醇酯、油酸盐、亚油酸盐、硬脂酸钙、硬脂酸镁和硬脂酸铝蜡等。
在脂性醇中有月桂、鲸蜡基、肉豆蔻、硬脂、棕榈、油醇和GUERBET醇,如二己基十四酰或异十六醇。
看看乳化剂,在聚氧乙烯脂性醇中,有月桂、鲸蜡基、硬脂醇和油醇中含有2到20摩尔的乙撑氧,而在丙三醇醇中包括了从C12到C18的2到10摩尔的丙三醇。能够使用像纤维素衍生物、聚丙烯酸衍生物、角豆胶或黄酸盐树胶等增稠剂将非常有用。
在本专利发明的产品中也含有普通化妆品或皮肤用药的添加剂,尤其是保湿产品、磨砂膏、治疗皮肤的产品、防辐射剂、杀菌剂。染料、 防腐剂、香水和压缩气体等。本专利发明的产品处于分散状态,它们可以是卵磷脂分散于水中、表面活性或者像油脂球分散在水中,构成一个分子层将水的表面给包裹住。
我们可以就像油、醇和长链二醇,固醇如胆固醇、磷脂、胆甾醇硫酸盐和磷酸盐、长链胺和它们的季铵衍生物、二羟基烷基胺、聚氧化乙烯胺、长链醇胺酯、它们的季铵盐和衍生物、磷脂性醇酯,如三十二烷磷酸或其氯化钠,烷基磺酸盐,如鲸蜡基硫酸钠、十六基硫酸钠,以盐或油的形式的脂性醇都在法国专利号2315991,1477048和2091516,或者全球专利申请号WO83/01571和WO92/08685当中可以找到详尽的描述。我们可以用其他的脂质,包含长亲脂性链的脂质,有12到30个原子,饱和或未饱和,线性的或分枝的,例如油链、羊毛脂、十四酸、十六酸、月桂或苯基等。这些脂质吸收剂族可以是离子或非离子族。在非离子族中,我们可以从聚乙二醇族的衍生物中找到,并可以有效地使用薄片脂类,聚丙三醇脂,例如在法国专利号1477048,2091516,2465780和2482128之中可以找到详尽的描述。
在离子族中,我们可以利用具有酸和碱特征的,阴离子或阳离子衍生族。
在全球专利申请号WO83/01 571中所描述的其他的油脂,可以被用于小囊的形成的是糖脂,如乳糖苷脂、半乳糖脑苷脂、神经节苷脂、磷脂酰苷脂。
在更多的肽和/或肽衍生物以及神经酰胺中,含有一个或多个的附加成分,它们可以被随时用于化妆品、个人护理产品或局部和/或真皮层涂抹的医疗品中。
这些活性物质可以和肽及其衍生物和神经酰胺一起共同使用,具有医疗、营养或化妆的功效。如果它们能溶于水,它们就能被一同分解。或者它们被水包裹在里面。水溶性物质具有美容和/或医疗的功效,可以被作为皮肤和头发护理或治疗产品,例如像丙三醇、山梨醇、季戊四醇、吡咯烷酮酸和其盐族的湿润作用;人造古铜色因子有二羟基丙酮、赤藓酮糖、丙三醇醛,γ-二醛,即酒石醛。这些物质可能与染料有关,水溶性防紫外线、止汗药、除臭剂、收敛剂、提神剂、滋补剂、康复剂、加速蜕皮和除毛剂,香水;蔬菜纤维精华,如多聚糖;水溶性染料;防头皮屑因子;防脱发和出油过多因子。氧化剂,如过氧化氢等漂白剂;还原剂,如硫乙醇酸和硫乙醇酸盐等。
我们可以从维生素B1到B12,以及维生素C,D,H,K以及它们的衍生物,肽激素或甾类激素,酶,如超氧岐化酶、疫苗、抗激动药物类固醇,如氢化可的松、抗生素、抗微生物和细菌、细胞毒素或抗癌抗菌素。当这些活体是脂溶的,它们可以生长在乳剂油态中,或者在囊的表层,如脂质体、胶束或乳糜微滴。它们能够被脂溶的防晒剂、改善干燥和衰老皮肤的物质、生育酚、维生素E,F或A以及它们的酯、维A酸片剂、抗氧化剂、脂肪酸元素、甘草次酸、促脱皮剂、类胡罗卜素、神经酰胺和类神经酰胺,或者然后类似于皮肤中自然的神经酰胺脂溶复合体。
根据本专利发明的需要,肽既可作为单独的添加剂被用于化妆品合成品中,或者作为赋形剂的预混合物,并被用于溶液、分散质、乳剂、软膏或粉墨中。它们既可以被单独使用,也可以与其他的活性分子相结合,被命名或不命名,由化妆载体,如大荚膜、微荚膜或毫微胶囊分子,脂质体或乳糜微滴,大粒子、微粒或奈米微粒或微型海绵等来运送。它们还能被粉状有机聚合物、矿物滑石、膨润土和其他的矿物所吸收。
它们可以被任意使用,或依赖于或混合于或吸收或被吸收于大粒子、微粒和奈米微粒,大荚膜、微荚膜和毫微胶囊分子,从而为纺织物、合成或天然纤维、羊毛和所有可以在白天或晚上能够直接接触皮肤的外衣和内衣等物品,如衣领、内衣、手绢、湿纸巾等,尽最大努力利用与皮肤接触的机会进行皮肤保养和护理。
具体实施方式:
下面我们通过举例来说明此项专利发明,我们选取了几个比较有代表性的化妆程序,当然此项专利发明的应用并不仅仅限于这几个例子:
例一:凝胶 g/100g
卡波姆 0.3
丙二醇 2.0
丙三醇 1.0
白矿油 1.5
Cylomethicone 6.0
鲸蜡醇 0.5
Lubrajel牌芦芭胶MS系列 10
三乙醇胺 0.3
Palmitoyl-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly-OH(序列识别号6) 0.0005
水、防腐剂和香水 适量值100g
先将肽溶解到80℃的水中,然后将其他成分按照顺序一个个添加进来,然后让水温冷却到30℃后,再放入Lubrajel,防腐剂和香水后就可以制造出凝胶了。
这种凝胶可在没有准备的情况下就制造出来,每天将它涂抹在脸部皮肤上,尤其是涂在眼部周围可以消除水肿。
例二:护肤霜 g/100g
油醇醚S2 2.4
油醇醚S20 2.6
PPG15十八烷基醚 8.0
蜂蜡 0.5
十八烷氧基聚二甲基硅烷 3.0
丙二醇 3.0
卡波姆 0.25
三乙醇胺 0.25
Ceramide HO3 0.5
Acetyl-Ser-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly-OH(序列识别号22) 0.001
水、防腐剂和香水 适量值100g
神经酰胺 HO3 is available at Sederma.
这种乳剂是用于保湿,重新调理和放松面部皮肤的,尤其是对皮肤娇嫩部位的皱纹消除特别有效。制造该乳剂的方法如下:将Céramide HO3溶于85℃的油醇醚S2、S20和PPG15十八烷基醚之中,加入蜂蜡和十八烷氧基聚二甲基硅烷;将其他的成分都加入75-80℃的水相中,搅拌这两相,冷却后再加香水。其中Ceramide HO3就是Trihydroxypalmitamidohydroxypropyl Myristyl Ether,该产品由Sederma公司生产和提供。
例三:防皱霜 g/100g
软化水 适量值100g
卡波姆 0.10
山梨酸钾 0.10
羟乙基纤维素 3.00
丙三醇Croda 8.00
油醇醚S2[醚类非离子乳化剂]Croda 0.60
Crodafos CES[鲸蜡硬脂醇/十六烷基磷酸酯和PEG-10
磷酸鲸蜡醇醚混合物]Croda 4.00
DC 344[环甲矽脂]Dow Corning 2.00
Crodamol GTCC[辛酸/癸酸三丙三醇酯]Croda 10.00
Crill 3[硬脂酸己六酯]Croda 1.60
苯甲酸酯类 0.30
30%苏打水 0.35
软化水 3.50
上述的产品制造方法如下:在70-80℃的温度下将含油的成分混合,并用相同的方法将含水的成分混合,然后将它们加在一起制成乳剂。DERMAXYL就是C12-15 Alkyl benzoate C12-15 Alkyl benzoate-Tribehenin-Ceramide 2-PEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol-Palmitoyl Oligopeptide(序列识别号6),该产品由Sederma公司生产和提供。
例四:抗衰老霜 g/100g
软化水 适量值100g
Ultrez 10[卡波姆]Noveon 0.20
山梨酸钾 0.10
丁二醇 2.00
Phenova[苯氧基乙醇&混合苯甲酸酯类]Crodarom 0.80
Crill 3[硬脂酸己六酯]Croda 1.00
Crillet 3[聚山梨醇酯60]Croda 2.50
DC 200(二甲硅油) 2.50
Crodamol TN(Isotridetyl Isononanoate)Croda 5.00
Crodamol GTCC[辛酸/癸酸三丙三醇酯]Croda 5.00
Crodamol SS[十六酸酯]Croda 1.00
Super Hartolan[羊毛脂醇]Croda 0.50
Super Sterol Ester[C10-30胆甾醇羊毛甾醇] 0.30
Crodacol CS90[鲸蜡硬脂醇]Croda 3.00
软化水 2.50
38%氢氧化钠 0.25
生化摹拟分子生化缩氨酸[丁二醇(和)水(和)Laureth-3(和)Hydroxyethylcellulose(和)Acetyl-Dipeptide-l-cetylester]
Sederma 4.00
Palmitoyl-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly(序列识别号6)Sederma 0.001
神经酰胺2(N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine)Sederma 0.05
这种乳剂跟上一个例子的制造方法完全相同(分别分别将油相和水相加热搅拌,制成乳剂后冷却)。
例五:妊娠霜 g/100g
第一阶段
软化水 适量值100g
第二阶段
丁二醇 5.00
Phenova[苯氧基乙醇&混合苯甲酸酯类]Crodarom 0.80
第三阶段
Crill 3[硬脂酸己六酯] Croda 1.20
Crillet 3[聚山梨醇酯60] Croda 3.00
DC 200(二甲硅油) 2.00
Crodamol IPM[豆蔻酸异丙酯] Croda 5.00
Crodamol W[庚酸十八酯] Croda 0.30
Crodamol GTCC[辛酸/癸酸三丙三醇酯] Croda 5.00
Crodacol CS90[鲸蜡硬脂醇] Croda 2.00
神经酰胺2(N-stearoylsphinganine) Sederma 0.10
第四阶段
2%的Carbopol 980[卡波姆] 10.00
第五阶段
山梨酸钾 0.10
第六阶段
软化水 2.00
氢氧化钠 0.20
第七阶段
软化水 10.0
Pal-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly(序列识别号6)Sederma 0.00015
马栗树皮萃取 Sederma 0.5%
该产品的制造方法如下:将第二阶段的成分搭配均匀,添加入第一阶段中。然后将前两个阶段的成分加热到75℃。再将第三阶段和第四阶段加热到75℃,然后将第三阶段加入前两个阶段,搅拌均匀;再将第四阶段加入前三个阶段中。将第六阶段和第五阶段加入,最后在大约35℃时将第七阶段添加进来即可。
在开始之前的被要求进行的活动将在以下的例子中做详细介绍。
例六:研究皮肤的弹性
年纪在32岁到56岁之间的10名中年女性参加了这个测试。所用配方如下:
构成成分 %
硬脂酸 3.50
蜂蜜 0.50
鲸蜡醇 1.50
棕榈酸辛酯 1.50
新戊酸异十八醇酯 2.50
PPG15十八烷基醚 3.00
Cyclomethicone 4.50
Stearoxydimethicone 2.00
Cetearyloctanoate 3.00
软化水 适量值100g
99%的三乙醇胺 1.00
丙二醇 3.00
Palmitoyl-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly-OH(序列识别号6) 0.0004
研究的原则:由德国Courage&Khazaka公司生产的探针使我们能够对身体上一小块皮肤反复施加大约500毫巴的压力。而照射在这块表皮的光线随着表皮的变形而发生偏移,光线的移动轨迹被以曲线的形式记录下来,由此我们可以得到皮肤结实程度、弹性和张力等参数。
每天使用根据此项专利发明而制造的含肽衍生物的护肤霜两次,在前臂上涂抹,连续使用一个月。而在手臂的内侧使用不含肽的护肤霜placebo,时间和次数跟使用含肽的一样。
在一个月后我们可以观察到,皮肤变形的程度减小,而张力和强壮度有了很大的增加,而内侧涂抹placebo的部位则没有明显的变化。
例七:在试管中研究抗皱多肽-VGVAPG(序列识别号6)的特性
当一块皮肤被使用Pal-VGVAPG(序列识别号6)进行培养,我们开始分析被激活的或被抑止的分子细胞基因。在如何时候,我们都能随时查看不同标准的细胞基因活动图像,并且能比较出一个细胞在休息时、活动时或被抑止时对于外界环境的反应情况。脱氧核糖核酸(DNA)的芯片存储技术使得我们能够同时研究400个取样的DNA对于400个蛋白质的编码,这就涵盖了皮肤细胞大量的功能。根据聚合酶链式反应探测的结果得知,在将肽输入了细胞培养基后,细胞基因制造核糖核酸的速度就大幅增加了。
通过适当的手段,代号为Skin-Ethic的皮肤试验样品预先被培养了24小时后,一部分被注入了Pal-VGVAPG(序列识别号6)达四个小时,而一部分没有被做试验。试验的结果是根据被试验基因样品变化的百分比而体现出来的。通过以下的图表可以看到五种基因的活性情况:
在Pal-VGVAPG(序列识别号6)注入 后基因形态的变化 | 试验百分比 |
粒细胞趋化性蛋白质GCP2 | 227% |
通过生长因子接受基因 | 179% |
抑制血浆酶原中的蛋白 | 166% |
皮肤生长反应因素ERF1 | 154% |
钙硝肥基因 | 150% |
被刺激最厉害的基因就是GCP2基因,控制趋化性蛋白质的合成,来吸引细胞来清洁伤口:单核细胞和嗜中性。另外一个很有趣的情况就是,肽的特征是:五个基因都有反应。
例八:保湿防皱粉底霜
构成成分 %
软化水 53.36
10%氢氧化钾 1.30
聚山梨脂80 0.10
二氧化钛 6.00
滑石 3.05
氧化铁黄 1.80
氧化铁红 1.00
氧化铁黑 0.15
丙二醇 6.00
硅酸铝镁 1.00
羟甲基纤维素钠 0.12
DiPPG3肉豆蔻醚己二酸 12.00
新戊酸异十八醇酯 4.00
Crodafos CS 20 4.00
Steareth-10 2.00
鲸蜡醇 0.50
Steareth-2 0.50
神经酰胺 20.10
Pal-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly-OH(序列识别号6) 0.0004
防腐剂 适量值
例九:抗皱试验
根据第八个例子,24个人(平均年龄54岁)参加了一个试用粉底霜的试验。
测试者眼部周围的皱纹通过自动测评/问卷调查进行了评估。在试验的部位涂抹本产品56天,每天两次。记录从开始测试的前一天开始,直到第56天为之。简言之,试验的结果证明皱纹的数量有了明显的减少(详见下表)。另外,皱纹的减少可以通过肉眼观察出来,然而那些涂抹了既未含肽又未含神经酰胺的粉底霜的面部却看不出有什么明显的改善。
数值 | 平均百分比 | 最大百分比 |
明显皱纹的数量 | -13.7% | -36% |
明显皱纹的深度 | -10.1% | -27% |
明显皱纹所占部位面 积 | -40.3% | -98% |
平均皱纹所占部位面 积 | -24.5% | -86% |
序列表
<110>赛德玛
<120>减少因衰老而出现的皱纹的化妆品或皮肤用药
<140>PCT/FR2004/001139
<141>2004-05-11
<160>22
<210>1
<211>7
<212>PRT
<213>人工序列
<220>
<223>合成改性肽
<220>
<221>MISC_FEATURE
<222>(1)..(1)
<223>Xaa可以是任一天然或非天然氨基酸
<220>
<221>MOD_RES
<222>(1)..(1)
<223>酰胺化,R1序列描述:R1 Xaa Val GlyVal Ala Pro Gly R,其中R1是
氢或者C2到C22的直链或支链、饱和或不饱和、羟基化或非羟基化、含硫
或不含硫的烷基链,或者是生物素基团
<220>
<221>MISC_FEATURE
<222>(7)..(7)
<223>R是OR2或者NR3R4其中R2是氢或者从C1到C24优选是从C1到C3或
者从C14到C18的烷基链,而R3或R4是各自独立的氢或者是C1到C12的烷基
链
<400>1
Xaa Val Gly Val Ala Pro Gly
1 5
<210>2
<211>8
<212>PRT
<213>人工序列
<220>
<223>合成改性肽
<220>
<221>MOD_RES
<222>(1)..(1)
<223>酰胺化,R1序列描述:R1 Xaa Xaa Val Gly Val Ala Pro Gly R其中R1
是氢或者C2到C22的直链或支链、饱和或不饱和、羟基化或非羟基化,含
硫或不含硫的烷基链,或者是生物素基团
<220>
<221>MISC_FEATURE
<222>(1)..(2)
<223>Xaa可以是任一天然或非天然氨基酸
<220>
<221>MISC_FEATURE
<222>(8)..(8)
<223>R是OR2或者NR3R4其中R2是氢或者从C1到C24优选是从C1到C3或
者从C14到C18的烷基链,而R3或R4是各自独立的氢或者是从C1到C12的烷
基链
<400>2
Xaa Xaa Val Gly Val Ala Pro Gly
1 5
<210>3
<211>9
<212>PRT
<213>人工序列
<220>
<223>合成改性肽
<220>
<221>MOD_RES
<222>(1)..(1)
<223>酰胺化,R1序列描述:R1 Xaa Xaa Xaa Val Gly Val Ala Pro Gly R其
中R1是氢或者C2到C22的直链或支链、饱和或不饱和、羟基化或非羟基
化、含硫或不含硫的烷基链,或者是生物素基团
<220>
<221>MISC_FEATURE
<222>(1)..(3)
<223>Xaa可以是任一天然或非天然氨基酸
<220>
<221>MISC_FEATURE
<222>(9)..(9)
<223>R是OR2或者NR3R4其中R2是氢或者从C1到C24优选是从C1到C3或
者从C14到C18的烷基链,而R3或R4是各自独立的氢或者是从C1到C12的烷
基链
<400>3
Xaa Xaa Xaa Val Gly Val Ala Pro Gly
1 5
<210>4
<211>6
<212>PRT
<213>人工序列
<220>
<223>合成改性肽
<220>
<221>MOD_RES
<222>(1)..(1)
<223>酰胺化,R1序列描述:R1 Val Gly Val Ala Pro Gly R其中R1是氢或
者C2到C22的直链或支链、饱和或不饱和、羟基化或非羟基化、含硫或不
含硫的烷基链,或者是生物素基团且排除当R=OH时R1=H
<220>
<221>MISC_FEATURE
<222>(6)..(6)
<223>R是OR2或者NR3R4其中R2是氢或者从C1到C24优选是从C1到C3或
者从C14到C18的烷基链,而R3或R4是各自独立的氢或者是从C1到C12的烷
基链
<400>4
Val Gly Val Ala Pro Gly
1 5
<210>5
<211>6
<212>PRT
<213>人工序列
<220>
<223>合成改性肽
<220>
<221>MOD_RES
<222>(1)..(1)
<223>乙酰化
序列描述:Acetyl Val Gly Val Ala Pro Gly
<400>5
Val Gly Val Ala Pro Gly
1 5
<210>6
<211>6
<212>PRT
<213>人工序列
<220>
<223>合成改性肽
<220>
<221>MOD_RES
<222>(1)..(1)
<223>酰胺化,Pal(C16)
序列描述:Palmitoyl Val Gly Val Ala Pro Gly
<400>6
Val Gly Val Ala Pro Gly
1 5
<210>7
<211>6
<212>PRT
<213>人工序列
<220>
<223>合成改性肽
<220>
<221>MOD_RES
<222>(1)..(1)
<223>酰胺化,Lau(C12)
序列描述:Lauroyl Val Gly Val Ala Pro Gly R
<220>
<221>MISC_FEATURE
<222>(6)..(6)
<223>R是OR2或者NR3R4其中R2是氢或者甲基、乙基,R3=R4是氢或甲
基
<400>7
Val Gly Val Ala Pro Gly
1 5
<210>8
<211>7
<212>PRT
<213>人工序列
<220>
<223>合成改性肽
<220>
<221>MOD_RES
<222>(1)..(1)
<223>酰胺化,Lau(C12)
序列描述:Lauroyl Xaa Val Gly Val Ala Pro Gly R
<220>
<221>MISC_FEATURE
<222>(1)..(1)
<223>Xaa可以是任一天然或非天然氨基酸
<220>
<221>MISC_FEATURE
<222>(7)..(7)
<223>R是OR2或者NR3R4其中R2是氢或者甲基、乙基,R3=R4是氢或
甲基
<400>8
Xaa Val Gly Val Ala Pro Gly
1 5
<210>9
<211>6
<212>PRT
<213>人工序列
<220>
<223>合成改性肽
<220>
<221>MOD_RES
<222>(1)..(1)
<223>酰胺化,Myr(C14)
序列描述:Myristoyl Val Gly Val Ala Pro Gly R
<220>
<221>MISC_FEATURE
<222>(6)..(6)
<223>R是OR2或者NR3R4其中R2是氢或者甲基、乙基,R3=R4是氢或
甲基
<400>9
Val Gly Val Ala Pro Gly
1 5
<210>10
<211>7
<212>PRT
<213>人工序列
<220>
<223>合成改性肽
<220>
<221>MOD_RES
<222>(1)..(1)
<223>酰胺化,Myr(C14)
序列描述:Myristoyl Xaa Val Gly Val Ala Pro Gly R
<220>
<221>MISC_FEATURE
<222>(1)..(1)
<223>Xaa可以是任一天然或非天然氨基酸
<220>
<221>MISC_FEATURE
<222>(7)..(7)
<223>R是OR2或者NR3R4其中R2是氢或者甲基、乙基,R3=R4是氢或
甲基
<400>10
Xaa Val Gly Val Ala Pro Gly
1 5
<210>11
<211>6
<212>PRT
<213>人工序列
<220>
<223>合成改性肽
<220>
<221>MOD_RES
<222>(1)..(1)
<223>酰胺化,Ste(C18)
序列描述:Stearoyl Val Gly Val Ala Pro Gly R
<220>
<221>MISC_FEATURE
<222>(6)..(6)
<223>R是OR2或者NR3R4其中R2是氢或者甲基、乙基,R3=R4是氢或
甲基
<400>11
Val Gly Val Ala Pro Gly
1 5
<210>12
<211>7
<212>PRT
<213>人工序列
<220>
<223>合成改性肽
<220>
<221>MOD_RES
<222>(1)..(1)
<223>酰胺化,Ste(C18)
序列描述:Stearoyl Xaa Val Gly Val Ala Pro Gly R
<220>
<221>MISC_FEATURE
<222>(1)..(1)
<223>Xaa可以是任一天然或非天然氨基酸
<220>
<221>MISC_FEATURE
<222>(7)..(7)
<223>R是OR2或者NR3R4其中R2是氢或者甲基、乙基,R3=R4是氢或
甲基
<400>12
Xaa Val Gly Val Ala Pro Gly
1 5
<210>13
<211>6
<212>PRT
<213>人工序列
<220>
<223>合成改性肽
<220>
<221>MOD_RES
<222>(1)..(1)
<223>酰胺化,O1(C18)
序列描述:Oleoyl Val Gly Val Ala Pro Gly R
<220>
<221>MISC_FEATURE
<222>(6)..(6)
<223>R是OR2或者NR3R4其中R2是氢或者甲基、乙基,R3=R4是氢或
甲基
<400>13
Val Gly Val Ala Pro Gly
1 5
<210>14
<211>7
<212>PRT
<213>人工序列
<220>
<223>合成改性肽
<220>
<221>MOD_RES
<222>(1)..(1)
<223>酰胺化,O1(C18:1)
序列描述:Oleoyl Xaa Val Gly Val Ala Pro Gly R
<220>
<221>MISC_FEATURE
<222>(1)..(1)
<223>Xaa可以是任一天然或非天然氨基酸
<220>
<221>MISC_FEATURE
<222>(7)..(7)
<223>R是OR2或者NR3R4其中R2是氢或者甲基、乙基,R3=R4是氢或
甲基
<400>14
Xaa Val Gly Val Ala Pro Gly
1 5
<210>15
<211>6
<212>PRT
<213>人工序列
<220>
<223>合成改性肽
<220>
<221>MOD_RES
<222>(1)..(1)
<223>酰胺化,Ar(C20)
序列描述:Arachidoyl Val Gly Val Ala Pro Gly R
<220>
<221>MISC_FEATURE
<222>(6)..(6)
<223>R是OR2或者NR3R4其中R2是氢或者甲基、乙基,R3=R4是氢或
甲基
<400>15
Val Gly Val Ala Pro Gly
1 5
<210>16
<211>7
<212>PRT
<213>人工序列
<220>
<223>合成改性肽
<220>
<221>MOD_RES
<222>(1)..(1)
<223>酰胺化,Ar(C20)
序列描述:Arachidoyl Xaa Val Gly Val Ala Pro Gly R
<220>
<221>MISC_FEATURE
<222>(1)..(1)
<223>Xaa可以是任一天然或非天然氨基酸
<220>
<221>MISC_FEATURE
<222>(7)..(7)
<223>R是OR2或者NR3R4其中R2是氢或者甲基、乙基,R3=R4是氢或
甲基
<400>16
Xaa Val Gly Val Ala Pro Gly
1 5
<210>17
<211>6
<212>PRT
<213>人工序列
<220>
<223>合成改性肽
<220>
<221>MOD_RES
<222>(1)..(1)
<223>酰胺化,Lin(C18:2)
序列描述:Linoleoyl Val Gly Val Ala Pro Gly R
<220>
<221>MISC_FEATURE
<222>(6)..(6)
<223>R是OR2或者NR3R4其中R2是氢或者甲基、乙基,R3=R4是氢或
甲基
<400>17
Val Gly Val Ala Pro Gly
1 5
<210>18
<211>7
<212>PRT
<213>人工序列
<220>
<223>合成改性肽
<220>
<221>MISC_FEATURE
<222>(1)..(1)
<223>Xaa可以是任一天然或非天然氨基酸
<220>
<221>MOD_RES
<222>(1)..(1)
<223>酰胺化,Lin(C18:2)
序列描述:linoleoyl Xaa Val Gly Val Ala Pro Gly R
<220>
<221>MISC_FEATURE
<222>(7)..(7)
<223>R是OR2或者NR3R4其中R2是氢或者甲基、乙基,R3=R4是氢或
甲基
<400>18
Xaa Val Gly Val Ala Pro Gly
1 5
<210>19
<211>6
<212>PRT
<213>人工序列
<220>
<223>合成改性肽
<220>
<221>MOD_RES
<222>(1)..(1)
<223>酰胺化,Ela(C18:1)
序列描述:Elaidoyl Val Gly Val Ala Pro Gly R
<220>
<221>MISC_FEATURE
<222>(6)..(6)
<223>R是OR2或者NR3R4其中R2是氢或者甲基、乙基,R3=R4是氢或
甲基
<400>19
Val Gly Val Ala Pro Gly
1 5
<210>20
<211>7
<212>PRT
<213>人工序列
<220>
<223>合成改性肽
<220>
<221>MOD_RES
<222>(1)..(1)
<223>酰胺化,Pal(C16)
序列描述:Palmitoyl Ala Val Gly Val Ala Pro Gly R
<220>
<221>MISC_FEATURE
<222>(7)..(7)
<223>R是OR2或者NR3R4其中R2是氢或者甲基、乙基,R3=R4是氢或
甲基
<400>20
Ala Val Gly Val Ala Pro Gly
1 5
<210>21
<211>8
<212>PRT
<213>人工序列
<220>
<223>合成改性肽
<220>
<221>MOD_RES
<222>(1)..(1)
<223>乙酰化
序列描述:Acetyl Ile Ala Val Ala Pro Gly R
<220>
<221>MISC_FEATURE
<222>(8)..(8)
<223>R是OR2或者NR3R4其中R2是氢或者甲基、乙基,R3=R4是氢或
甲基
<400>21
Ile Ala Val Gly Val Ala Pro Gly
1 5
<210>22
<211>7
<212>PRT
<213>人工序列
<220>
<223>合成改性肽
<220>
<221>MOD_RES
<222>(1)..(1)
<223>乙酰化
序列描述:Acetyl Ser Val Gly Val Ala Pro Gly R
<220>
<221>MISC_FEATURE
<222>(7)..(7)
<223>R是OR2或者NR3R4其中R2是氢或者甲基、乙基,R3=R4是氢或
甲基
<400>22
Ser Val Gly Val Ala Pro Gly
1 5
Claims (15)
1.肽的编码序列表如下:序列识别号6的肽棕榈酰-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly。
2.化妆或皮肤用合成物,含有根据权利要求1所述的肽,以及可以被化妆所接受的赋形剂。
3.根据权利要求2所述的化妆或皮肤用合成物,其特征在于,含有一个或多个适于化妆的活性成分,该成分为选自由丙三醇、山梨醇、季戊四醇、吡咯烷酮酸或其盐组成的保湿族;人造古铜色因子选自二羟基丙酮、赤藓酮糖、丙三醇醛,选自酒石醛的γ-二醛;水溶性防紫外线、止汗药、除臭剂、收敛剂、提神剂、滋补剂、康复剂、加速蜕皮和除毛剂,香水;选自多聚糖的蔬菜纤维精华;水溶性染料;防头皮屑因子;防脱发和出油过多因子;选自过氧化氢的氧化剂;还原剂,硫乙醇酸和硫乙醇酸盐,维生素B1到B12,以及维生素C,D,H,K,肽激素或甾类激素,酶,超氧岐化酶、疫苗、抗激动药物类固醇,氢化可的松、抗生素、抗微生物和细菌、细胞毒素或抗癌抗菌素;当这些活体是脂溶的,它们可以生长在乳剂油态中,或者在囊的表层,脂质体、胶束或乳糜微滴,它们能够被脂溶的防晒剂、改善干燥和衰老皮肤的物质、生育酚、维生素E,F或A及其酯、维A酸片剂、抗氧化剂、脂肪酸元素、甘草次酸、促脱皮剂、类胡罗卜素、神经酰胺和类神经酰胺,或者然后类似于皮肤中自然的神经酰胺脂溶复合体。
4.根据权利要求2所述的化妆或皮肤用合成物,其特征在于,所述合成物中肽的质量浓度为0.0001%-0.01%。
5.根据权利要求4所述的化妆或皮肤用合成物,其特征在于,所述合成物中含有一个或多个神经酰胺,所述神经酰胺的质量浓度为0.00001%-10%。
6.根据权利要求5所述的化妆或皮肤用合成物,其特征在于,所述一个或多个神经酰胺的质量浓度为0.0001%-1.0%。
7.根据权利要求6所述的化妆或皮肤用合成物,其特征在于,它含有肽棕榈酰-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly,所述肽的质量浓度为0.0001%-0.01%,而在N-硬脂酰-二氢神经鞘氨醇中的神经酰胺的质量浓度为0.001%-1.0%。
8.根据权利要求2所述的化妆或皮肤用合成物,其特征在于,所述合成物通过化妆载体单独或与其它活性分子结合用于溶液、分散质、乳剂、软膏或粉墨中;所述化妆载体选自大荚膜、微荚膜或毫微胶囊分子,脂质体或乳糜微滴,大粒子、微粒或奈米微粒或微型海绵呢。
9.根据权利要求2所述的化妆或皮肤用合成物,其特征在于,所述合成物能被粉状有机聚合物、矿物滑石、膨润土和其它的矿物所吸收。
10.根据权利要求2所述的化妆或皮肤用合成物,其特征在于,所述合成物被用于沐浴液、润肤剂或润肤乳、皮肤或头发的护理剂或护发乳、清洁剂或清洁乳、染发剂、防晒剂、古铜色涂油、剃须膏、香波、口红、睫毛膏和指甲油。
11.根据权利要求2所述的化妆或皮肤用合成物,其特征在于,所述合成物至少包含下列化妆品成分中的一种或者几种:有机或萃取液,萃取或合成油脂物,有离子或非离子增稠剂、磨砂膏、染发膏、稳定剂、润肤剂、硅润滑剂或者柔肤美白晚霜,防泡沫因子、保湿因子、维生素、香水、防腐剂、螯合剂、染料、胶凝和纤维胶聚合体、表面活性剂和乳液。
12.根据权利要求1所述的肽在制造护理皮肤和消除衰老的症状的合成物中的应用。
13.根据权利要求1所述的肽在制造刺激皮肤改善的合成物中的应用。
14.根据权利要求2所述的合成物在制造护理皮肤和消除衰老的症状的合成物中的用途。
15.根据权利要求2所述的合成物在制造刺激皮肤改善的合成物中的用途。
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FR0305707A FR2854897B1 (fr) | 2003-05-12 | 2003-05-12 | Compositions cosmetiques ou dermopharmaceutiques pour reduire les signes du vieillissement cutane. |
FR03/05707 | 2003-05-12 | ||
PCT/FR2004/001139 WO2004101609A2 (fr) | 2003-05-12 | 2004-05-11 | Composition cosmetique ou dermopharmaceutique pour reduire les signes du vieillissement cutane |
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US (2) | US20040120918A1 (zh) |
EP (1) | EP1638991B1 (zh) |
JP (1) | JP5296984B2 (zh) |
KR (1) | KR101231914B1 (zh) |
CN (1) | CN1933805B (zh) |
FR (1) | FR2854897B1 (zh) |
WO (1) | WO2004101609A2 (zh) |
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2004
- 2004-05-11 WO PCT/FR2004/001139 patent/WO2004101609A2/fr active Application Filing
- 2004-05-11 JP JP2006530344A patent/JP5296984B2/ja not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 2004-05-11 EP EP04742695.2A patent/EP1638991B1/fr not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 2004-05-11 KR KR1020057021423A patent/KR101231914B1/ko active IP Right Grant
- 2004-05-11 CN CN2004800199378A patent/CN1933805B/zh not_active Expired - Lifetime
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US20040120918A1 (en) | 2004-06-24 |
JP2007536205A (ja) | 2007-12-13 |
FR2854897B1 (fr) | 2007-05-04 |
US20090186826A1 (en) | 2009-07-23 |
CN1933805A (zh) | 2007-03-21 |
JP5296984B2 (ja) | 2013-09-25 |
FR2854897A1 (fr) | 2004-11-19 |
EP1638991A2 (fr) | 2006-03-29 |
EP1638991B1 (fr) | 2017-08-02 |
KR20060014047A (ko) | 2006-02-14 |
WO2004101609A2 (fr) | 2004-11-25 |
KR101231914B1 (ko) | 2013-02-08 |
WO2004101609A3 (fr) | 2005-02-17 |
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