CN117618271A - Fruit acid composition for accelerating skin cutin regeneration, application thereof and daily chemical product - Google Patents

Fruit acid composition for accelerating skin cutin regeneration, application thereof and daily chemical product Download PDF

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CN117618271A
CN117618271A CN202311621805.3A CN202311621805A CN117618271A CN 117618271 A CN117618271 A CN 117618271A CN 202311621805 A CN202311621805 A CN 202311621805A CN 117618271 A CN117618271 A CN 117618271A
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acid
skin
gluconolactone
lactic acid
chemical product
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CN117618271B (en
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叶天赐
罗小兰
凌沛学
亓金亮
王鹏
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Shandong Meimei Pharmaceutical Co ltd
Meiye Biomedical Co ltd
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Shandong Meimei Pharmaceutical Co ltd
Meiye Biomedical Co ltd
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Abstract

The application belongs to the technical field of cosmetic production, and discloses a fruit acid composition for accelerating skin cutin update, which comprises gluconolactone, mandelic acid and lactic acid, wherein the mass ratio of the gluconolactone to the mandelic acid to the lactic acid is 0.5-3: 0.5 to 2:1.5 to 4, removing the connection structure between horny substances in the horny layer by the combination of gluconolactone, mandelic acid and lactic acid, and dissolving the horny substances, thereby promoting the peeling of the horny substances and the renewal of the horny substances.

Description

Fruit acid composition for accelerating skin cutin regeneration, application thereof and daily chemical product
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetic production, in particular to a fruit acid composition for accelerating skin cutin update, application thereof and daily chemicals.
Background
The stratum corneum of the skin is the outermost layer in direct contact with the outside, protecting the skin and body from external risk factors, and the proteins in the stratum corneum are called keratins, which account for about 50% of the stratum corneum, the remainder consisting of 20% fat, 23% water-soluble substances and 7% moisture. Skin cells are continually growing and gradually pushing existing skin cells towards the stratum corneum, where the cells reaching the stratum corneum are flat dead cells, also known as "horny cells"; millions of dead keratinocytes in the skin break off a day and are replaced by new keratinocytes.
As described above, the change in the location of the new cell layer in the epidermis is called a renewal; although the update frequency varies depending on the location or age, such epidermal update takes about 4 weeks in normal skin; when the horny layer is not peeled off normally but remains on the skin surface, the horny layer becomes thick and the color becomes dull and blackened; in addition, impurities remaining on the skin surface or in hair follicles of hair may be oxidized or decomposed by oxygen or microbial decomposition, thereby causing skin problems such as inflammation.
Chinese patent application 202110786172.6 discloses a stable suspension system, a preparation method thereof and cosmetics, comprising at least one of 0.1-6% of acidic substances and 0.1-20% of ionic substances, 0.1-5% of thickening agent, 1-40% of grease and the balance of water; wherein the thickener comprises at least one of agar, agarose, gellan gum and Sphingomonas fermented extract; the preparation method of the stable suspension system comprises the following steps: mixing a thickener with water to form an aqueous phase; mixing the grease with the water phase to form emulsion; mixing at least one of acidic material and ionic material with the emulsion to obtain the final product;
the thickening agent used in the stable suspension system disclosed in the scheme comprises at least one of agar, agarose, gellan gum and sphingomonas fermented extract, and the thickening agent is applied to a system containing acidic substances and/or ionic substances, so that the system can maintain a stable suspension state under a low pH environment (pH value is less than 3.8) and/or high ion concentration (conductivity is 500 mu S/cm-15000 mu S/cm). The stable suspension system also contains water and grease, is an excellent carrier for some water-soluble active ingredients and oil-soluble active ingredients, has better tolerance, can fully exert the effects of all substance ingredients, and greatly enriches the applicability of the system. After the stable suspension system is stored for a long time, the stability is good, and the conditions of layering, oil discharge and the like can not occur; however, by observing the performance test result of the scheme, it can be found that the scheme has good promoting effect on the stability of the system, but does not carry out excessive tests on the using effect of the cosmetics;
meanwhile, as can be seen from the description of the scheme, the acidic substance in the scheme is selected from at least one of tartaric acid, malic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, mandelic acid, glucuronic acid, glycolic acid, 2-hydroxybutyric acid, benzilic acid, hydroxyoctanoic acid, salicylic acid, lactobionic acid, gluconolactone, succinic acid and azelaic acid;
the ionic substance in the scheme is at least one selected from sodium chloride, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, sodium citrate, sodium lactate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, zinc gluconate, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, sodium phytate, sodium azulenesulfonate, disodium ethylenediamine tetraacetate, tetrasodium ethylenediamine tetraacetate, calcium chloride and magnesium sulfate;
and examination of this protocol shows that examples 1-15 all use an acidic material as the active ingredient; examples 16 to 24 use an ionic substance as an active ingredient; example 25 uses a combination of an acidic material and an ionic material; it can be seen that the above-described solution does not make excessive design for the incorporation of various acidic substances or various ionic substances.
Chinese patent application 202210532624.2 discloses a skin care product composition, a preparation method and application thereof, wherein the skin care product composition comprises salicylic acid, salicylic acid compound and salicylic acid derivative or any combination thereof, hydroxydecanoic acid, and the preparation method comprises the steps of adding a thickener and deionized water into an oil phase pot for heating; adding salicylic acid into water phase pot, and heating; cooling the oil phase pot raw material and the water phase pot raw material, vacuumizing into an emulsifying pot, stirring, adding other materials, preserving heat, cooling, and discharging;
the composition provided by the scheme can effectively solve the skin problems of repeated acnes, closed acnes, full face oil, blackheads, large pores, darkness, pigmentation and the like, and ensures that the skin is healthy and beautiful. Can be used for removing acne, inflammatory dermatoses, regulating skin cutin, promoting cutin regeneration, recovering cutin layer, dissolving oil, dredging pores, removing speckle, and brightening skin;
meanwhile, the main components of the composition are salicylic acid, a salicylic acid compound and a salicylic acid derivative or any combination thereof; and hydroxydecanoic acid; while glycolic acid, mandelic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, gluconolactone, azelaic acid, lactobionic acid, lactic acid, and the like may further enhance the skin care capabilities of the composition, it can be seen from an examination of the examples of the regimen that the regimen does not disclose a combination of gluconolactone, mandelic acid, lactic acid.
The problem that this scheme needs to solve: how to develop a new composition to accelerate skin keratosis.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a fruit acid composition for accelerating skin cutin regeneration, which is used for removing the connection structure between cutin in the cutin layer through the combination of gluconolactone, mandelic acid and lactic acid, and dissolving the cutin, so as to promote the peeling of the cutin and the regeneration of the cutin.
In order to achieve the aim, the application discloses a fruit acid composition for accelerating skin cutin renewal, which comprises gluconolactone, mandelic acid and lactic acid, wherein the mass ratio of the gluconolactone to the mandelic acid to the lactic acid is 0.5-3: 0.5 to 2:1.5 to 4;
preferably, the mass ratio of gluconolactone, mandelic acid and lactic acid is 1-3: 1:2 to 4.
Preferably, the mass ratio of gluconolactone, mandelic acid and lactic acid is 1.6-2.4: 1:2.8 to 3.2;
preferably, the composition further comprises purslane extract, wherein the purslane extract is 2% -10% of the total weight of gluconolactone, mandelic acid and lactic acid.
In addition, the application of the fruit acid composition for accelerating the skin cutin regeneration as an active ingredient for accelerating the skin cutin regeneration in daily chemicals is also disclosed.
Preferably, the fruit acid composition for accelerating the skin cutin regeneration contains 0.01 to 10wt% of the fruit acid composition for accelerating the skin cutin regeneration.
Preferably, the daily chemical product is a facial cleanser, a toning lotion or a facial mask.
Preferably, the daily chemical product is in the form of essence, emulsion or cream.
The beneficial effects of this application are:
gluconolactone, mandelic acid in the present application can help to remove aged stratum corneum by mild exfoliating action. It can penetrate into horny layer, and combine with horny protein to relax, so as to promote natural falling of horny layer; and gluconolactone can stimulate metabolism of epidermal cells, and promote cell regeneration. It can increase the growth and differentiation of cells, promote the synthesis of collagen and elastic fiber, and thus improve the elasticity and compactness of skin; meanwhile, the gluconolactone has an antioxidation effect, can neutralize free radicals and reduce the damage of oxidative stress to skin. It can protect skin from environmental pollution, ultraviolet radiation and other external factors, and delay skin aging process; the gluconolactone also has effects of keeping moisture, increasing skin moisture content, and improving skin water-oil balance. The natural moisturizing factor of the skin can be increased, the moisturizing capability of the skin is improved, and the skin is softer and smoother;
the mandelic acid has certain antibacterial effect, and can inhibit bacterial growth and proliferation. It can remove bacteria on skin surface, reduce inflammatory reaction, and improve skin problems such as acne and comedo; meanwhile, the mandelic acid has an antioxidation effect, can neutralize free radicals and reduce the damage of oxidative stress to skin. It can protect skin from environmental pollution, ultraviolet radiation and other external factors, and delay skin aging process;
lactic acid can gently solubilize proteins in the stratum corneum, helping to remove aged keratinocytes. It can combine with keratin, reduce the adhesion between keratinocytes, promote the natural shedding of horny layer; meanwhile, lactic acid can stimulate metabolism of epidermal cells and promote cell renewal and regeneration. It can increase the growth and differentiation of cells, promote the synthesis of collagen and elastic fiber, and thus improve the elasticity and compactness of skin; and the lactic acid has the effects of moisturizing and nourishing, can increase the moisture content of skin, and improve the water-oil balance of skin. The natural moisturizing factor of the skin can be increased, the moisturizing capability of the skin is improved, and the skin is softer and smoother; lactic acid also has certain antioxidation effect, and can neutralize free radical and reduce damage of oxidative stress to skin. It can protect skin from environmental pollution, ultraviolet radiation and other external factors, and delay skin aging; the three components are used together to remove the connection structure between the horny layers and dissolve the horny, thereby promoting the peeling of the horny and the renewal of the horny.
Detailed Description
The present invention will be described more fully hereinafter with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which specific conditions, either conventional or manufacturer-suggested, are not explicitly shown. The reagents or apparatus used were conventional products commercially available without the manufacturer's attention.
Purslane extract-HYUNDAI bio line co., LTD.
Gentian extract-vast sen Biotech limited in Beijing oriental
Centella asiatica extract-Sabinsa corporation
All examples and comparative examples of the present invention employed the following application formulations:
table 1 emulsion formulation
Sequence number Raw material name Percentage content
1 Deionized water To 100
2 EDTA disodium salt 0.03
3 Glycerol 5
4 Xanthan gum 0.05
5 Betaine (betaine) 3
6 Polyacrylate crosslinked Polymer-6 0.7
7 Glycerol tris (ethylhexanoate) 1
8 Isononyl isononanoate 4
9 Glycerol stearate 1
10 PEG-100 stearate 2
11 Stearyl alcohol 2
12 Diisostearyl malate 0.1
13 Polydimethylsiloxane 2
14 Butanediol (butanediol) 3
15 1, 2-hexanediol 0.5
16 Para hydroxy acetophenone 0.5
17 Fruit acid composition 5
In the present invention, the preparation process of the emulsion (refer to table 1) is:
step 1: cleaning and sterilizing the required equipment, accurately weighing the raw materials of each component in the formula, and placing the raw materials in a clean and sterilized vessel for standby.
Step 2: adding the raw materials 1-6 into a water boiler, stirring and heating to 80-85 ℃, and stirring until the raw materials are completely dissolved.
Step 3: adding the raw materials 7-13 into an oil pan, stirring and heating to 80-85 ℃, and stirring until the raw materials are completely dissolved.
Step 4: pumping the raw materials of the water pot and the oil pot into the main pot, homogenizing and stirring uniformly, and then starting to cool.
Step 5: cooling to 45 ℃, adding the raw materials into the mixture, and uniformly stirring the mixture.
Step 6: sampling and detecting various physicochemical indexes, and filtering and discharging after the physicochemical indexes are qualified.
All subsequent tests were carried out on the basis of the application formulation of the invention.
Examples 1 to 6
A fruit acid composition for accelerating skin cutin renewal comprises the following components in parts by mass:
TABLE 2
Comparative examples 1 to 8
A composition comprises the components in the mass ratio shown in Table 3:
TABLE 3 Table 3
Efficacy detection:
1. skin closed patch test
Healthy skin normal, no cosmetic allergy history test population, aged 20-40 years, total 30 people were selected. The selected area is not more than 50mm 2 A plaque test apparatus of about 1mm depth. Examples 1-6 and comparative examples 1-11, and blank, were each added to plaque testers at a rate of about 0.020mL to about 0.025mL. The plaque assay was applied to the back of the subject and removed after 24 hours. The skin reaction was observed according to the criteria of table 4 30 minutes after removal of the subject plaque tester (after disappearance of the indentations) and the observations were recorded, the results of which are shown in table 5.
Table 4: skin response grading standard for skin closed patch test
Table 5: skin closed patch test result table
Blank refers to the formulation of table 1 without the fruit acid composition.
Analysis of results:
from this, it is clear that the compositions provided by the present invention have high safety, except that examples 1,2, 3 and comparative examples 1,2, 7, 8 have a slight risk of irritation, and no adverse reaction occurs in other groups; the herba Portulacae extract can obviously reduce irritation of fruit acid component to human skin compared with other similar plant extracts. The addition amount of the composition has excellent relieving effect when the total weight of gluconolactone, mandelic acid and lactic acid is 2-10 percent.
2. Skin moisture content test
A group of healthy skin normal, cosmetic allergy history free subjects, aged 20-40 years, total 54 subjects, were selected and divided into 9 groups of 6 subjects each, each group being 54 subjects, according to examples 1-6 and comparative examples 1-11 and blank2 samples are used for the group, the inner side of the arm is cleaned before smearing, the cleaning mode is that the inner side of the arm is wiped clean by dry facial tissues, a German CK company skin moisture test probe is selected, the initial value (0 h) before the use of the test samples is tested under the relative humidity environment of 20+/-1 and 50+/-10%, and then the corresponding samples are smeared, wherein the using amount is 2mg/cm 2 The skin moisture content of the smeared area was measured after 1h and 4h of smearing the product after the sample absorption, and the average value of each group was taken, and the results are shown in Table 6.
Table 6: skin moisture content variation test result table
Test group 0h 1h 4h
Example 1 30.34 43.25 34.10
Example 2 31.01 44.95 34.52
Example 3 29.87 49.59 40.01
Example 4 30.19 60.30 55.20
Example 5 30.63 61.11 55.98
Example 6 31.12 62.80 57.01
Comparative example 1 30.07 42.33 33.02
Comparative example 2 30.76 45.81 36.87
Comparative example 3 31.22 51.05 41.88
Comparative example 4 29.98 42.50 32.77
Comparative example 5 30.82 56.70 49.92
Comparative example 6 30.29 55.45 48.30
Comparative example 7 31.20 50.92 40.66
Comparative example 8 29.87 50.00 40.93
Comparative example 9 30.19 42.30 32.74
Comparative example 10 31.02 42.98 34.88
Comparative example 11 29.48 43.40 34.20
Blank sample 30.55 41.23 30.63
Blank refers to the formulation of table 1 without the fruit acid composition.
Therefore, the composition provided by the invention has better moisturizing effect. Of these examples 4, 5 and 6, the skin moisture content was most increased and the moisturizing effect was best.
As can be seen from the comparison of examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 3, the effect is not greatly different by adjusting the amount within a certain range;
as can be seen from the comparison of examples 4 to 6 and comparative examples 4 to 6, the compounding effect with the purslane extract is superior in the range of the preferred fruit acid composition;
it can be seen from comparative examples 9 to 11, comparative examples 6 to 8 and examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 4 to 6 that the effect is enhanced by other extracts, but the synergistic effect of gentian extract, centella asiatica extract is inferior to that of purslane extract.
3. Keratolytic test
Dansyl chloride is a protein fluorescent marker, and has very high affinity to fibrous protein in particular; keratin is an insoluble fibrous protein which is the basic skeleton of the cells of the stratum corneum, when the epidermis is stained with dansyl chloride, the dansyl chloride can be firmly bound to the keratin, and the time to the disappearance of fluorescence is the time when the whole stratum corneum falls off while being replaced by cells newly produced by the epidermis which are not stained with dansyl chloride, i.e., the epidermal cell renewal time. The specific operation method is as follows:
healthy skin normal, cosmetic allergy history free subjects, aged 20-40 years, 54 total, were selected and divided into 9 groups of 6 subjects each, each group being tested with 2 samples according to examples 1-6 and comparative examples 1-11 and blank. The forearm skin of the subject was subjected to fluorescent staining with 5% dansyl chloride, and after the staining was stabilized, the test site was smeared with the sample once per day. Other light was blocked daily and fluorescence imaging of the stratum corneum was performed under UV. The fluorescence disappearance time of the skin horny layer was recorded, and the results are shown in Table 7.
Table 7: skin stratum corneum fluorescence disappearance time
Blank refers to the formulation of table 1 without the fruit acid composition.
Therefore, the composition provided by the invention has the effects of better promoting the exfoliating of old and waste cutin and accelerating the updating of skin. Among them, examples 4, 5 and 6 showed the fastest fluorescence disappearance time of the skin horny layer and the best skin refreshing effect.
Analysis of results:
examples 4, 5 and 6 were excellent in safety, moisturizing effect and skin renewal. Further, example 6 is slightly better than the other two examples.
The specific principle is as follows:
1. exfoliating: gluconolactone and mandelic acid can help to remove aged horny layer by mild exfoliating action, and lactic acid can gently dissolve proteins in horny layer to help to remove aged horny cells; wherein gluconolactone, mandelic acid relax the keratin based on excellent permeability and keratin binding; lactic acid is combined with keratin, so that the adhesion between keratinocytes is reduced, and the natural shedding of the horny layer is promoted; namely, the former two improve the permeability of lactic acid, the latter improves the keratolytic ability, combines the ability of gluconolactone and mandelic acid to relax the cornea, and realizes the detachment and degradation of aged keratin.
2. Epidermal cell regeneration: gluconolactone, mandelic acid and lactic acid all have the ability to stimulate metabolism and regeneration of epidermal cells;
the functions of the two points are combined, so that the three components are combined for use, the connection structure between horny layers can be removed, and the horny layers are melted, so that the peeling of the horny layers and the updating of the horny layers are promoted;
3. moisture retention aspect: both gluconolactone and lactic acid have moisturizing effect and have the ability to improve the oil-water balance of the skin;
4. the three components have the functions of resisting oxidation and neutralizing free radicals, meanwhile, the mandelic acid has excellent antibacterial performance, the inflammatory reaction can be reduced, and the performances of the antioxidant capacity and the antibacterial capacity can further delay the aging of the horny layer, so that the horny layer removing and the protein regenerating capacity of the three components are improved.
5. In the present invention, the ratio of the three should be in a proper range, and it can be seen from comparative examples 1 to 3 that when one is too small, part of the performance is weakened;
it can be seen from comparative example 1 and examples 1 and 2 that the irritation, water content and cutin renewal of the three are similar, but comparative example 1 is slightly inferior to examples 1 and 2 in water content and cutin renewal; the gluconolactone, the mandelic acid and the lactic acid have certain effects in three aspects, and the effect fluctuation is not too large under the condition of small change of the composition, but the overall performance of the gluconolactone, the mandelic acid and the lactic acid have a weakening trend beyond the range limit of the invention, and the larger the distance difference from the range of the invention is, the faster the performance is weakened;
as can be seen from the comparison of comparative example 2 and example 3, the results showed similar trend to comparative example 1 in terms of slight amount adjustment, but it should be noted that the moisture retention of comparative example 2 was significantly weakened, that is, mandelic acid may play a central role in moisture retention, as compared with example 3;
as can be seen from examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-3, gluconolactone plays a significant central role in moisture retention; thus, gluconolactone plays a major role in moisturizing properties, mandelic acid plays a minor role, and lactic acid plays a major role;
it can be seen from a comparison of comparative example 3 and example 3 that both have similar moisturizing properties, but a slower rate of turnover of cutin, it can be deduced that lactic acid is more important in the turnover of cutin, which can also be manifested in the evolution of the turnover rate of cutin of comparative examples 1 to 3. It is believed that the possible reason is that the effect of lactic acid on reducing the adhesion between keratinocytes promotes the turnover of the keratin, but the involvement of gluconolactone, the osmotic power of mandelic acid and the softening power cannot be lost.
6. It can be seen from examples 3 and 6, comparative examples 1-3 and comparative examples 4-6 that the purslane extract can exert a significant synergistic effect when gluconolactone, mandelic acid and lactic acid are used in an appropriate amount, such as an increase in the moisture retention from 7 to 17; this suggests that purslane extracts are very likely to be capable of providing excellent moisturizing and keratolytic properties of one or more of gluconolactone, mandelic acid and lactic acid in combination.
As is well known, purslane extract, centella asiatica extract and gentian extract are very common extracts in daily chemicals, and all the extracts have the effects of moisturizing, resisting skin oxidation, scavenging free radicals, promoting collagen proliferation, resisting inflammation, calming and the like, but the three extracts are slightly different in terms of functional emphasis;
in the present case, about 2% -10% of the purslane extract is added, so that the synergy is obvious, but the performance of the purslane extract used alone in comparative example 9 is far lower than that of examples 1-6;
7. as can be seen from comparative examples 7 and 8, the other extracts did not show a significant synergistic effect in terms of moisturizing and keratolytic properties;
the scope of the present invention is not, however, intended to exclude the addition of other extracts, and extends to the addition of any extract, preferably purslane extract.

Claims (8)

1. The fruit acid composition for accelerating skin cutin renewal is characterized by comprising gluconolactone, mandelic acid and lactic acid, wherein the mass ratio of the gluconolactone to the mandelic acid to the lactic acid is 0.5-3: 0.5 to 2:1.5 to 4.
2. The fruit acid composition for accelerating skin cutin regeneration according to claim 1, wherein the mass ratio of gluconolactone, mandelic acid and lactic acid is 1 to 3:1:2 to 4.
3. The fruit acid composition for accelerating skin cutin regeneration according to claim 1, wherein the mass ratio of gluconolactone, mandelic acid and lactic acid is 1.6 to 2.4:1:2.8 to 3.2.
4. The fruit acid composition for accelerating skin cutin turnover according to claim 2, further comprising purslane extract, wherein said purslane extract is 2% -10% of total weight of gluconolactone, mandelic acid and lactic acid.
5. Use of the skin keratolytic acceleration fruit acid composition of any one of claims 1 to 4 as an active ingredient for accelerating skin keratolytic acceleration in daily chemicals.
6. A daily chemical product comprising 0.01 to 10% by weight of the fruit acid composition for accelerating skin keratosis according to any one of claims 1 to 4.
7. The daily chemical product according to claim 6, wherein the daily chemical product is a face lotion, a toning lotion or a facial mask.
8. The daily chemical product according to claim 6, wherein the daily chemical product is in the form of essence, emulsion or cream.
CN202311621805.3A 2023-11-30 2023-11-30 Fruit acid composition for accelerating skin cutin regeneration, application thereof and daily chemical product Active CN117618271B (en)

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