CN115154344A - Hydroxy acid composition for after-sun repair and skin color brightening and application thereof - Google Patents

Hydroxy acid composition for after-sun repair and skin color brightening and application thereof Download PDF

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CN115154344A
CN115154344A CN202210470775.XA CN202210470775A CN115154344A CN 115154344 A CN115154344 A CN 115154344A CN 202210470775 A CN202210470775 A CN 202210470775A CN 115154344 A CN115154344 A CN 115154344A
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acid
skin
sun
repair
hydroxy acid
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张翌
马晓瑜
费尔南多·布法德
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Shanghai Shuya Biotechnology Co ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/004Aftersun preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A61K2800/5922At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18

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Abstract

The invention provides a hydroxy acid composition for after-sun repair and skin lightening, which at least comprises mandelic acid with the weight ratio of 10: lactobionic acid; the invention also provides a preparation method of the hydroxy acid composition, and on the other hand, provides a cosmetic for repairing after sun and brightening skin; in addition, the invention also provides application of the hydroxy acid composition for after-sun repair and skin color brightening in preparation of cosmetics for after-sun repair and skin color brightening. The hydroxy acid composition for after-sun repair and skin color brightening overcomes the irritation and photosensitivity problems of AHA of the first generation, has obvious synergistic effect on skin color brightening and after-sun repair, and realizes the effect of low dosage and high efficacy.

Description

Hydroxy acid composition for after-sun repair and skin color brightening and application thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular to a hydroxy acid composition for after-sun repair and skin lightening and application thereof.
Background
Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), also known as fruit acids, are organic carboxylic acids that are structurally characterized by a hydroxyl group attached to the alpha position of the carboxyl group. AHA is a class of classical chemical ingredients widely used in cosmetics and dermatology. AHA is naturally present in many fruits, milk, and is therefore also often referred to simply as fruit acid. The common AHA components include glycolic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, etc. AHA can reduce adhesion of keratinocytes by reducing desmosome number, promote proliferation of keratinocytes and fibroblasts to increase epidermal and dermal thickness in photodamaged skin, increase synthesis of glycosaminoglycans and collagen, etc., and thus has various effects in skin care including removing dandruff, cutin lysis, anti-aging, improving pigmentation, etc.
However, the first generation AHA described above has a small molecular weight and a high permeation rate, and thus has a certain skin irritation, and is mainly used for the treatment and improvement of non-sensitive muscle skin. In addition, the first generation AHA is photosensitive, and the sun-damaged cells in the skin increase after exposure of the topical composition to sunlight, so that it is necessary to use a sunscreen to prevent sunburn, and the use of photosensitive tartaric acid on the skin after sunburn may further cause cell damage and inhibit HaCaT cell proliferation. In view of this, a single AHA has limitations in skin care use scenarios. With the research and development of hydroxy acids, new-generation components such as polyhydroxy acids (PHA), polyhydroxy biological acids (PHBA), and the like are gradually put into application. PHA and PHBA have the same structure of alpha-hydroxy acid similar to the conventional primary acid, but contain more hydroxyl group in the molecule, and the PHBA adds additional sugar molecular structure. In terms of functionality, the PHA and PHBA improve the mildness, moisture retention and oxidation resistance; meanwhile, the two can not cause photosensitive phenomenon, and are not easy to combine with other active substances. However, compared to the first generation AHA, its molecular weight is larger and permeability is reduced, so it is inferior to the first generation acid component in exfoliation.
Currently, most of the fruit acid combinations on the market contain a large number of primary hydroxy acids, which must be used in combination with sunscreen products, thus limiting their application. Although the efficacy range of the tartaric acid covers the fields of oil control, acne removal, peeling, whitening, aging resistance and the like, little attention is paid to the compounding mode and the defense to irradiation in the application process. CN104337705A discloses a cosmetic composition containing gluconolactone and lactobionic acid for removing skin cutin, whitening skin or improving skin color. CN113081877A discloses a composition containing lactobionic acid, chitosan for increasing skin gloss and/or increasing skin brightness and/or increasing skin whiteness. CN 111346027A discloses a composition containing lactobionic acid, spiraea ulmaria extract, nicotinamide and carnitine for controlling oil and pore shrinkage.
That is, in the existing technology of compositions using fruit acids, fruit acids and non-fruit acids are usually compounded, different types, action concentrations, compounding modes and the like of fruit acids can affect the final action effect, the existing technology is not related, and the compounding technology among fruit acids only focuses on the effect result, but ignores the light sensitivity characteristics of fruit acids, so that the use process is greatly limited. In view of this, further research and exploration are needed to solve the irritation and photosensitivity problems of AHA of the first generation while maintaining its antioxidant properties and improving skin color and after-sun repair.
Disclosure of Invention
In view of the above-mentioned drawbacks of the prior art, the object of the present invention is to provide a hydroxy acid composition for after-sun repair and skin lightening and its application, which solves the irritation and photosensitivity problems of the prior art using one generation of AHA, while ensuring its antioxidant properties and skin lightening and after-sun repair effects.
To achieve the above and other related objects, the present invention provides a hydroxy acid composition for aftersun repair and skin lightening, comprising at least mandelic acid in a weight ratio of 10: lactobionic acid.
Preferably, the composition is suitable for various dosage forms of aqua, lotion, cream and essence.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the hydroxy acid composition for after-sun repair and skin color brightening, which comprises the step of uniformly mixing the raw material components and the solvent according to the proportion to prepare the composition.
The invention also provides a cosmetic for after-sun repair and skin lightening, which comprises the hydroxy acid composition for after-sun repair and skin lightening.
Preferably, the weight ratio of the hydroxy acid composition for repairing after sun and brightening skin color in the cosmetic is 5-80 mg/g.
The invention further provides application of the hydroxy acid composition for after-sun repair and skin color brightening in preparing cosmetics for after-sun repair and skin color brightening.
As described above, the hydroxy acid composition for after-sun repair and skin lightening of the present invention has the following advantageous effects:
the hydroxy acid composition for after-sun repair and skin color brightening of the invention adopts the compounding of different tartaric acids, obtains the optimal action effect by selecting proper tartaric acid molecules and concentration proportion, overcomes the problems of irritation and photosensitivity of the first generation AHA, and has better after-sun repair effect on sun-damaged skin.
In the hydroxy acid composition for after-sun repair and skin color brightening, the tartaric acid complexing system has a brightening effect and simultaneously has a good prevention effect on UV radiation, and compared with the single use of any tartaric acid component or the collocation of the same generation of tartaric acid, the combination has a remarkable synergistic effect, so that the application limit of a common tartaric acid system is widened.
The hydroxy acid composition for repairing after sun and brightening skin color fully utilizes the stripping effect of micromolecular mandelic acid and the oxidation resistance of macromolecular polyhydroxy biological acid lactobionic acid, and not only realizes better brightening effect, but also has the effect of resisting UV radiation through the synergistic effect of the micromolecular mandelic acid and the macromolecular polyhydroxy biological acid lactobionic acid.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a graph showing the after-sun repair effect of the hydroxy acid compositions of example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 4 of the present invention.
Fig. 2 shows a stereomicroscope image of tail fins of zebra fish of example 1 and comparative examples 1, 3 and 4 of the present invention.
FIG. 3 is a graph showing the skin tone lightening effect of the hydroxy acid compositions of example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 4 of the present invention.
FIG. 4 shows the real photo of the zebra fish in example 1 and comparative examples 1, 3 and 4.
FIG. 5 shows a scheme of action of the composition of the invention.
FIG. 6 shows the molecular structures of mandelic acid, gluconolactone and lactobionic acid according to the invention.
Detailed Description
The embodiments of the present invention are described below with reference to specific embodiments, and other advantages and effects of the present invention will be easily understood by those skilled in the art from the disclosure of the present specification. The invention is capable of other and different embodiments and of being practiced or of being carried out in various ways, and its several details are capable of modification in various respects, all without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention.
The inventor of the invention has surprisingly found through a great deal of practical research that the composition can effectively increase the skin brightness in an in vitro model and resist the radiation damage under UVB through the compounding and the cooperation of the first generation alpha-hydroxy acid mandelic acid and the third generation alpha-hydroxy acid lactonic acid.
The invention provides a hydroxy acid composition for after-sun repair and skin color brightening, which at least comprises mandelic acid with the weight ratio of 10: lactobionic acid.
Mandelic acid, also known as mandelic acid and mandelic acid, was first extracted from peach and willow leaves and has the same origin as salicylic acid. Mandelic acid belongs to the first generation of fruit acid component, was discovered by two scholars in germany in 1909 by j.w.walker and v.k.krible, and has been used for antibacterial and anti-inflammatory purposes in the medical field for a long time. Thereafter, the application of mandelic acid in the field of dermatology and cosmetology was started by the american dermatologist dr. Mandelic acid has a benzene ring structure, is lipophilic tartaric acid, has higher affinity with skin, has strong permeability, is easy to permeate a horny layer and deeply enter the skin to play a role, simultaneously, the mandelic acid cannot rapidly contact a pain receptor, has milder effect than glycolic acid, is not irritant, can be used on more skin, and is also suitable for sensitive muscles. Furthermore, mandelic acid, which has a chemical structure similar to that of antibiotics, can directly inhibit the proliferation of various bacteria, such as Staphylococcus epidermidis, candida albicans and other active bacteria, and can be used as antibacterial agent. Mandelic acid is larger than the majority of the generation of alpha-hydroxy acids, has a slower rate of penetration and is therefore less irritating to the skin. Meanwhile, mandelic acid has the effect of inhibiting tyrosinase activity, and can block melanin formation, remove old cutin, and promote melanin metabolism. Currently, mandelic acid is commonly used in the cosmetic field for the treatment of acne and pigmentation.
Lactobionic acid belongs to a third generation tartaric acid component, is a polyhydroxy biological acid with a molecular weight of 358 and a pKa of 3.8. Lactobionic acid is formed by oxidation of lactose and consists of one molecule of D-galactose and one molecule of D-gluconic acid. Lactobionic acid, also known as biological acid, is a sugar unit added to the structure of classical gluconolactone polyhydroxyacid, has an antioxidant effect, is a very good hydroxyl radical scavenger, and can inhibit lipid peroxidation and protect cell membranes and mitochondria; in addition, lactobionic acid inhibits matrix metalloproteinases and inhibits collagen loss at the histological level. The structure of lactobionic acid is provided with eight groups of oxyhydrogen water bases, and the multi-hydroxyl groups of lactobionic acid make the lactobionic acid have strong water absorption and water storage capacity, can hold a large amount of water molecules, and is warm and non-irritating when in use. The lactobionic acid as the third generation of fruit acid gets rid of the strong irritation of the first generation of fruit acid, upgrades the oxidation resistance and the moisture retention capacity of the second generation of fruit acid, and realizes high temperature and high efficacy. In addition, lactobionic acid has the effects of removing old cells, promoting the regeneration of keratinocytes, promoting the secretion of hyaluronic acid and collagen of a dermis layer, improving the compactness and elasticity of the whole skin, and removing black and white.
According to the hydroxy acid composition for after-sun repair and skin color brightening, mandelic acid has lipophilic characteristic, easily permeates a cutin layer, has a good cutin removing effect, but is not strong in light protection effect; the lactobionic acid has large molecular weight and lacks permeability, but has multiple effects of oxidation resistance, moisture retention and the like, and the hydroxy composition has the stripping capability of a generation acid on one hand and can obviously brighten the skin color by compounding the mandelic acid and the lactobionic acid; on the other hand, the sun cream also has third-generation acid oxidation resistance, can efficiently resist ultraviolet damage, and realizes after-sun repair.
The weight ratio of mandelic acid to lactobionic acid is 10. The molecular weight of mandelic acid in the invention is 152.2, CAS:611-71-2, preferably the specification of Allatin M107076-100g. In the present invention, the molecular weight of lactobionic acid is 358.3, CAS:96-82-2, preferably the specification of Allatin L109639-100g.
In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the weight ratio of mandelic acid to lactobionic acid is 7.5. The hydroxy acid composition has obvious effects of repairing after sun and brightening skin color under the ratio of 7.5. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the weight ratio of mandelic acid to lactobionic acid is 5.2.
The hydroxy acid composition for after-sun repair and skin color brightening provided by the invention is suitable for various dosage forms of solution, emulsion, cream and essence. The mandelic acid and the lactobionic acid in the hydroxy acid composition for after-sun repair and skin color brightening have good water solubility, and can be applied to cosmetics in various different formulations. The hydroxy acid composition for repairing after sun and brightening skin color is designed and compounded aiming at hydroxy acids with different molecular weights, chemical structures and physical and chemical properties, so that the effects of low stimulation and high efficiency are realized.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the hydroxy acid composition for after-sun repair and skin color brightening, which comprises the step of uniformly mixing the raw material components and the solvent according to the proportion to prepare the composition. Wherein the solvent may be water.
In another aspect, the present invention provides a post-sun repair and skin lightening cosmetic comprising the post-sun repair and skin lightening hydroxy acid composition of the present invention.
In the cosmetics for repairing after sun and brightening skin color provided by the invention, the weight ratio of the hydroxy acid composition for repairing after sun and brightening skin color can be 5-80 mg/g, such as 5-10 mg/g, 10-15 mg/g, 15-20 mg/g, 20-25 mg/g, 25-30 mg/g, 30-35 mg/g, 35-40 mg/g, 40-45 mg/g, 45-50 mg/g, 50-55 mg/g, 55-60 mg/g, 60-65 mg/g, 65-70 mg/g, 70-75 mg/g or 75-80 mg/g.
In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic comprises the hydroxy acid composition for after-sun repair and skin lightening in a weight ratio of 10 to 60mg/g.
The cosmetic for repairing after sun and brightening skin color provided by the invention comprises astringent, lotion, cream, essence, mask, foundation and spray. Foundations include, but are not limited to, powder foundations, emulsion foundations, or wax foundations. Creams include, but are not limited to, eye creams, face creams, or skin lotions. The after-sun repair and skin color-lightening cosmetic provided by the present invention may also be in any other formulation commonly used in the art. For example: jelly, cream, gel, powder, soap, face cleanser, oil, etc., but is not limited thereto. More specifically, the cosmetic for after-sun repair and skin lightening of the present invention may be skin cleansing water, skin cleansing oil, facial scrub, massage oil, massage cream, skin moisturizing water, skin toner, essence water, essence liquid, etc.
The cosmetic for after-sun repair and skin color brightening provided by the invention has the advantages that the effective components for after-sun repair and skin color brightening can only contain mandelic acid and lactobionic acid, and other components can be added under the condition of not influencing the after-sun repair effect and the skin color brightening effect. For example, the polyol: glycerin, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, and the like. Thickening agent: hydroxyethyl cellulose, xanthan gum, and the like. Emulsifier: polyol esters, fatty alcohol-polyoxyethylene ethers, and the like. And active ingredients: niacinamide, vitamin C glucoside, olive leaf extract, etc. Other additional active agents may also be added, such as 2-hexyldecyl stearate, oleyl oleate, erucyl oleate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, ethylhexyl benzoate, cinoxate, ethylhexyl triazone, octyl dimethylaminobenzoate, phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid, PPG-3 myristyl ether, ethoxydiglycol, octocrylene, oxybenzone, octyl methoxycinnamate, octyl salicylate, methyl anthranilate, 4-aminobenzoic acid, ceramide, polyunsaturated fatty acids, essential fatty acids, enzymes, enzyme inhibitors, minerals, and the like, as well as natural oils and fats of animal, vegetable, or mineral origin, such as cucumber oil, egg yolk oil, grape seed oil, carrot seed oil, castor oil, citrus kernel oil, coconut oil, corn oil, avocado butter, cocoa butter, cottonseed oil, rapeseed oil, rose hip oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower seed oil, sweet potato oil, animal tallow, and wheat germ oil, and mixtures of these vegetable oil solvents.
In a third aspect, the present invention provides the use of a hydroxy acid composition for after-sun repair and skin lightening in the preparation of a cosmetic having after-sun repair and skin lightening properties. The hydroxy acid composition is mainly applied to preparing cosmetics for repairing after UV radiation and brightening skin.
Example 1
A hydroxy acid composition for after-sun repair and skin lightening: mandelic acid 0.0052g, lactobionic acid 0.0010g.
Example 2
A hydroxy acid composition for after-sun repair and skin lightening: mandelic acid 0.0044g, lactobionic acid 0.0018g.
Example 3
A hydroxy acid composition for after-sun repair and skin lightening: mandelic acid 0.0055g, lactobionic acid 0.0007g.
Example 4
A hydroxy acid composition for after-sun repair and skin lightening: mandelic acid 0.0031g, lactobionic acid 0.0031g.
Comparative examples 1 to 4
The parameters of comparative examples 1-4 were varied as shown in table 1 below, as compared to the suncare and skin lightening hydroxy acid composition of example 1: wherein the gluconolactone has a molecular weight of 178.14, CAS:90-80-2 and the specification is that of Allatin G106879-500G.
TABLE 1
Comparative example 1 Comparative example 2 Comparative example 3 Comparative example 4 Example 1
Mandelic acid (g) 0.0062 / / / 0.0052
Lactobionic acid (g) / 0.0062 0.025 0.0167 0.0010
Gluconolactone (g) / / / 0.0083 /
In total (g) 0.0062 0.0062 0.025 0.025 0.0062
Example 5
The compositions of example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 4 were used for efficacy tests of after-sun repair effect:
ultraviolet rays can accelerate skin aging, and especially long-term exposure to ultraviolet radiation can cause massive accumulation of active oxygen, damage skin structures, cause problems of thickened epidermis, increased wrinkles and the like, and even cause skin cancer. In the in vitro test model of the zebra fish, when the zebra fish is irradiated by ultraviolet, the tail fin shows a rough and shriveled phenotype. Therefore, the post-basking repair efficacy of the sample can be evaluated by the change of the tail fin area of the zebra fish.
In the experiment of the after-sun repair efficacy, the zebra fish system is provided by a special organism. The adopted zebra fish product is a wild AB strain, and the age of the zebra fish is 2 days (2 dpf) after fertilization. The adult fish breeding and reproduction method meets the requirements of the international AAALAC certification (certification number: 001458).
The testing process comprises the following steps:
1. 45 zebra fish were randomly selected from each group in 6-well plates, 15 zebra fish per well, and divided into normal control group, model control group, and sample group.
2. And respectively carrying out ultraviolet irradiation on the model control group and the sample group, wherein the normal control group is not subjected to ultraviolet irradiation.
3. The hydroxy acid composition samples of example 1 and comparative examples 1-4 were dissolved in water, respectively, and added to the sample groups in the 6-well plates of each group, respectively, with a volume of 3mL per well, while a model control group and a normal control group were set with a volume of 3mL in water addition.
4. Each experimental group was incubated at 28 ℃ for 20h in the absence of light.
5. 10 zebra fish were randomly selected from the normal control group, model control group and sample group of each group and photographed under a stereomicroscope and stored (fig. 2). Zebra fish tail fin area (A) was calculated using NIS-Elements D3.10 advanced image processing software. Finally, the after-sun repair efficacy of the sample was calculated according to the following formula:
Figure BDA0003621880290000071
experimental the hydroxy acid compositions of example 1 and comparative examples 1-4 used for after-sun repair are shown in table 2:
table 2 after-sun repair ability of the hydroxy acid compositions of example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 4 on zebrafish
Comparative example 1 Comparative example 2 Comparative example 3 Comparative example 4 Example 1
After-sun repair effect (%) 0 1.00 -4 5 12.15
The observation through a microscope shows that: the normal control group was not subjected to uv irradiation and was not photodamaged; the model control group received radiation and had significant photodamage; the test samples were added to the groups after exposure to radiation and showed varying degrees of photodamage, indicating that the hydroxy acid composition samples of each group had varying degrees of after-sun repair.
As can be seen by combining Table 2 and accompanying figures 1-2, the different hydroxy acid compositions of example 1 and comparative examples 1-4 have significant differences in the ability to repair zebrafish after sun exposure. As can be seen from comparative example 1, comparative example 2 and example 1, mandelic acid alone does not have the after-sun repair ability under the same amount of conditions, and lactobionic acid alone has a certain after-sun repair ability. Compared with the comparative examples 1 and 2, in the example 1, under the same addition amount of 0.0062g of the components, the after-sun repair capacity of the compound of the mandelic acid and the lactobionic acid reaches 12.15%, and the single mandelic acid and the lactobionic acid can not provide good UV resistance, the result shows that the compound of the first-generation hydroxy acid mandelic acid and the third-generation hydroxy acid lactobionic acid can generate good synergistic effect, and the compound effect of the mandelic acid and the lactobionic acid is far better than that of the single component under the condition of the same total dose.
With the combination of Table 2 and accompanying drawings 1-2, in comparative example 3 compared with comparative example 2, the addition amount of the single ingredient is increased by increasing the lactobionic acid ingredient from 0.0062g to 0.025g, but the after-sun repair effect is reduced from 1% to-4%, and the result shows that the single increase of the content of the single ingredient of lactobionic acid cannot improve the after-sun repair capability, and even has the opposite effect.
With reference to table 2 and accompanying drawings 1-2, in comparative example 4, the hydroxy acid composition is a combination of dibasic acid gluconolactone and tribasic hydroxy acid sour acid, and after the combination, the after-sun repair capacity of the zebra fish reaches 5%, which indicates that the composition has a certain UV resistance effect. However, the amount of the component added in comparative example 4 was high but the repair ability was weak, compared to the complex system of mandelic acid and lactobionic acid in example 1.
In conclusion, this specific combination of mandelic acid and lactobionic acid of example 1 has a synergistic effect, not only overcomes the photosensitivity and irritation problems of AHA of the first generation, but also shows excellent after-sun repair efficacy, and compared to comparative examples 1 to 4, the hydroxy acid composition of example 1 is characterized by a low dose and high efficacy.
Example 6
The compositions of example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 4 were used in efficacy experiments for skin color lightening effect:
when the free radical production is greater than the body's ability to scavenge, oxidative stress occurs, eventually leading to skin pigmentation. By an antioxidant mechanism: provide electrons, inhibit oxidation, or absorb free radicals, and can remove free radicals to improve skin pigmentation, i.e., to lighten skin color. On zebrafish, menadione can be used for inducing molding, thereby generating active oxygen free radicals. The skin color brightening effect of the composite component is examined by analyzing the yolk sac pigment signal intensity of the melanin allele mutation translucent Albino strain zebra fish (provided by Cyclote organisms) under the induction of free radicals.
In the skin color brightening effect experiment, the strain used in the in-vitro zebra fish test model is a melanin allele mutation semi-transparent Albino strain zebra fish. The age of the zebra fish in the experiment is 2 days (2 dpf) after fertilization, and the adult fish feeding and breeding method meets the requirements of international AAALAC certification (certification number: 001458).
And (3) testing process:
1. 45 zebra fish were randomly selected from each group in 6-well plates, 15 zebra fish per well, and divided into normal control group, model control group, and sample group.
2. And respectively carrying out ultraviolet irradiation on the model control group and the sample group, wherein the normal control group is not subjected to ultraviolet irradiation.
3. The hydroxy acid composition samples of example 1 and comparative examples 1-4 were dissolved in water, respectively, and added to the sample groups in the 6-well plates of each group, respectively, with a volume of 3mL per well, while a model control group and a normal control group were set with a volume of 3mL in water addition.
4. After incubation of each experimental group at 28 ℃ for 2h in the dark, the model control group and the sample group were treated with menadione. After modeling, each experimental group was incubated at 28 ℃ for 20h in the dark.
5. After the incubation is finished, 10 zebra fish are randomly selected from the normal control group, the model control group and the sample group of each group, photographed under a visible light microscope (figure 4), and analyzed for zebra fish yolk sac pigment signal intensity by using advanced image processing software (S). In the subsequent data processing, the skin color brightening efficacy of the sample is calculated according to the following formula:
Figure BDA0003621880290000081
the compositions of example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 4 were used for skin color lightening as shown in table 3:
table 3 the hydroxy acid compositions of example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 4 have a skin tone lightening effect on zebrafish
Comparative example 1 Comparative example 2 Comparative example 3 Comparative example 4 Example 1
Skin color lightening effect (%) 38.52 -9.99 50.42 57.09 101.41
Combining table 3 and accompanying fig. 3-4, it can be found from comparative example 1, comparative example 2 and example 1 that, under the condition of the same addition amount of the components, the skin color brightening effect of using mandelic acid in comparative example 1 is 38.52%; the skin tone lightening effect of comparative example 2 with lactobionic acid alone was-9.99%, i.e. comparative example 2 with lactobionic acid alone at a lower dose had no skin tone lightening effect; while the fixed total addition amount in the embodiment 1 is unchanged, the skin color brightening effect reaches 101.41% by compounding the lactobionic acid and the mandelic acid, which indicates that the brightening effect of the mandelic acid or the lactobionic acid used singly is relatively limited, and the mandelic acid and lactobionic acid compounded system has a synergistic effect and can obviously brighten the skin color in an in vitro model.
With reference to Table 3 and accompanying figures 3-4, comparative example 3 examined the effect of dosage, and when lactobionic acid alone was used, the skin tone-lightening effect increased from-9.99% to 50% by increasing the amount of the ingredient from 0.0062g to 0.025 g. However, compared with example 1, the effect concentration is high and the brightening effect is weak in the comparison ratio 3, which proves that the complexion brightening effect of the lactobionic acid non-compound system is lower than that of the mandelic acid and lactobionic acid compound system.
With the combination of Table 3 and accompanying figures 3-4, comparative example 4 examined the effect of compounding lactobionic acid with gluconolactone, and the total content of lactobionic acid and gluconolactone as the active ingredients reached 0.025g, but the brightening effect was only 57%, which is close to 50% of the effect of comparative example 3 using lactobionic acid alone at the dose, but far lower than 101% of the effect of compounding lactobionic acid and mandelic acid in example 1, indicating that the compounding effect of lactobionic acid and gluconolactone is inferior to the brightening effect of compounding mandelic acid and lactobionic acid according to the present invention on skin color.
In summary, the specific combination of mandelic acid and lactobionic acid of example 1 shows a synergistic effect, and a high skin color lightening effect is achieved at a low dose, but as shown in comparative example 4, not all the tartaric acids have a synergistic effect after being compounded, and mandelic acid and lactobionic acid in a specific ratio of the present invention show a good synergistic effect.
According to the invention, AHA and PHBA components are compounded, and a special lipophilic component mandelic acid in AHA is selected to be compounded with lactobionic acid in PHBA, so that the problems of overall irritation and photosensitivity are solved, the high-efficiency action effect of the mandelic acid and the lactobionic acid components is kept, the effects of skin brightening and after-sun repair are achieved through the cooperation of the components, and the composition can be further applied to a cosmetic formula.
In conclusion, the hydroxy acid composition for after-sun repair and skin color lightening plays a synergistic effect on both skin color lightening and after-sun repair, and realizes the effects of low dosage and high effect; meanwhile, due to the unique property of after-sun repair, the composition system breaks the limitation of the photosensitivity of the fruit acid formula. In practical application, the use of the photosensitive tartaric acid can aggravate the skin sunburn after ultraviolet irradiation, but the hydroxy acid composition provided by the invention can not increase the ultraviolet damage, otherwise, the protection is provided, and the sunburn damage is reduced, so that the use scene is widened, and the use convenience is improved. Therefore, the invention effectively overcomes various defects in the prior art and has high industrial utilization value.
The foregoing embodiments are merely illustrative of the principles and utilities of the present invention and are not intended to limit the invention. Any person skilled in the art can modify or change the above-mentioned embodiments without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention. Accordingly, it is intended that all equivalent modifications or changes which may be accomplished by those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention as set forth in the appended claims.

Claims (10)

1. A hydroxy acid composition for after-sun repair and skin lightening, characterized in that the composition comprises at least 10 to 1: lactobionic acid.
2. The hydroxy acid composition for aftersun repair and skin lightening of claim 1, characterized in that it comprises mandelic acid in a weight ratio of 7.5: lactobionic acid.
3. The hydroxy acid composition for aftersun repair and skin lightening of claim 3, characterized in that it comprises mandelic acid in a weight ratio of 5.2: lactobionic acid.
4. The hydroxy acid composition for aftersun repair and skin lightening of claim 1, wherein the composition is suitable for use in various dosage forms of solution, lotion, cream, essence.
5. The method for preparing the hydroxy acid composition for after-sun repairing and skin lightening as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 4, comprises the step of preparing the composition by uniformly mixing the raw material components and the solvent according to the proportion.
6. A cosmetic for after-sun repair and skin color lightening, which comprises the hydroxy acid composition for after-sun repair and skin color lightening as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 4.
7. The after-sun repair and skin color lightening cosmetic as claimed in claim 6, wherein the weight ratio of the after-sun repair and skin color lightening hydroxy acid composition in the cosmetic is 5 to 80mg/g.
8. The aftersun repairing and skin lightening cosmetic as claimed in claim 7, wherein the weight ratio of the aftersun repairing and skin lightening hydroxy acid composition in the cosmetic is 10 to 60mg/g.
9. The aftersun repairing and skin lightening cosmetic as claimed in claim 9, wherein said cosmetic comprises a plurality of dosage forms of a water agent, a lotion, a cream, a essence, a pack, a foundation and a spray.
10. Use of the hydroxy acid composition for after-sun repair and skin lightening as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 4 for the preparation of a cosmetic product having after-sun repair and skin lightening.
CN202210470775.XA 2022-04-28 2022-04-28 Hydroxy acid composition for after-sun repair and skin color brightening and application thereof Pending CN115154344A (en)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20040092482A1 (en) * 2002-11-07 2004-05-13 Gupta Shyam K. Hydroxy acids based delivery systems for skin resurfacing and anti-aging compositions
JP2011153090A (en) * 2010-01-27 2011-08-11 Unitika Ltd Agent for preventing and improving skin aging
CN104337705A (en) * 2013-08-02 2015-02-11 Cnp化妆品株式会社 Cosmetic composition containing gluconolactone and lactobionic acid
TW201536337A (en) * 2014-03-21 2015-10-01 Guang Ding Biotech Company Use of mandelic acid for whitening
KR20180105998A (en) * 2017-03-16 2018-10-01 주식회사 씨앤피코스메틱스 A cosmetic composition having excellent skin exfoliation and wrinkle improvement
CN110664645A (en) * 2018-07-02 2020-01-10 陕西佰傲再生医学有限公司 Fruit acid skin-activating composition and preparation method thereof

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20040092482A1 (en) * 2002-11-07 2004-05-13 Gupta Shyam K. Hydroxy acids based delivery systems for skin resurfacing and anti-aging compositions
JP2011153090A (en) * 2010-01-27 2011-08-11 Unitika Ltd Agent for preventing and improving skin aging
CN104337705A (en) * 2013-08-02 2015-02-11 Cnp化妆品株式会社 Cosmetic composition containing gluconolactone and lactobionic acid
TW201536337A (en) * 2014-03-21 2015-10-01 Guang Ding Biotech Company Use of mandelic acid for whitening
KR20180105998A (en) * 2017-03-16 2018-10-01 주식회사 씨앤피코스메틱스 A cosmetic composition having excellent skin exfoliation and wrinkle improvement
CN110664645A (en) * 2018-07-02 2020-01-10 陕西佰傲再生医学有限公司 Fruit acid skin-activating composition and preparation method thereof

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VIRGINIA GAROFALO等: "《Clinical evidence on the efficacy and tolerability of a topical medical device containing benzoylperoxide 4%, retinol 0.5%, mandelic acid 1% and lactobionic acid 1% in the treatment of mild facial acne: an open label pilot study》", CLINICAL, COSMETIC AND INVESTIGATIONAL DERMATOLOGY《》, pages 363 - 369 *

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