CN117482020A - Composition for repairing skin barrier and preparation method and application thereof - Google Patents
Composition for repairing skin barrier and preparation method and application thereof Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN117482020A CN117482020A CN202311621880.XA CN202311621880A CN117482020A CN 117482020 A CN117482020 A CN 117482020A CN 202311621880 A CN202311621880 A CN 202311621880A CN 117482020 A CN117482020 A CN 117482020A
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- extract
- sap
- composition
- leaf
- skin barrier
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
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- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/52—Stabilizers
- A61K2800/524—Preservatives
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
- A61K2800/5922—At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
Abstract
The invention provides a composition for repairing skin barrier, a preparation method and application thereof. The composition is prepared by compounding birch juice and willow (EPILOBIUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM) flower/leaf/stem extract according to a specific proportion. By compounding the components into the composition, the availability of the components is obviously increased, and the effect of repairing the skin barrier is obviously improved. Meanwhile, the compound composition is combined with a natural preservative, and the prepared cosmetic product for repairing the skin barrier has the advantages of good stability, small irritation, good skin feel and remarkable repairing effect.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the field of daily cosmetics, and particularly relates to a composition for repairing skin barrier, a preparation method thereof and application of the composition for repairing skin barrier in preparation of cosmetics.
Background
The skin barrier is a protective structure on the surface of the skin, and consists of a sebum membrane, a cuticle, a microorganism layer and the like, and can prevent water loss, resist external stimulus and pathogen invasion and maintain the health and stability of the skin. The damage of the skin barrier means that the protective structure is damaged or weakened, so that the problems of dryness, sensitivity, red blood streak, acne, color spots and the like of the skin are caused.
There are many reasons for the damage to the skin barrier, such as excessive cleaning, exfoliating, the use of unsuitable skin care products, exposure to ultraviolet light or environmental pollution, etc. Repair of the skin barrier is typically accomplished by the following pathways: (1) stopping damaging the skin barrier, avoiding using skin care products with strong irritation or efficacy, and selecting mild and low-sensitivity products; (2) the sensitive and repair barrier is relieved, and a skin care product containing repair factors is used for constructing a moist repair environment for the skin; (3) strictly protects, avoids secondary injury, makes sun-proof work, reduces the outgoing time and avoids contacting with irritant substances.
The white birch juice contains abundant nutrients such as minerals, vitamins, amino acids, etc., and has various benefits for human body. The birch sap has antiinflammatory, antibacterial and antioxidant effects, and can relieve skin inflammation, allergy, etc., and promote skin self-repair. It also can supplement skin moisture, increase skin elasticity and luster, and improve skin dryness, roughness, darkness, etc. In addition, the birch sap can promote metabolism of skin, accelerate regeneration of horny layer, remove aged dead skin, and improve transparent feeling and brightness of skin.
The extract of flowers/leaves/stems of willow herb (EPILOBIUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM) contains rich active ingredients such as antioxidant, flavonoid, tannin and the like, has the effects of resisting inflammation, bacteria and irritation, can relieve the symptoms such as skin redness, inflammation, allergy and the like, and can promote the self-repair of the skin. Meanwhile, the willow herb extract can regulate sebum secretion, balance water and oil of skin, and improve the problems of oiliness, acne, large pores and the like of the skin. In addition, the willow herb extract can inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, prevent melanin from generating, lighten color spots and improve the brightness and uniformity of skin.
In addition to various effective components for repairing skin barrier, various chemically synthesized auxiliary materials are added into the existing cosmetics for repairing skin barrier. Although these auxiliary materials have effects on the shelf life, stability and the like of the whole product, the chemically synthesized auxiliary materials have irritation and poor overall use feeling for users with damaged skin barriers. Therefore, there is a need to develop a skin barrier cosmetic with little or no chemical synthesis adjuvants.
Summary of The Invention
In order to solve the problems in the prior art, the invention provides application of a composition for repairing skin barrier in preparing cosmetics for repairing skin barrier. The composition is prepared by compounding birch juice and willow (EPILOBIUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM) flower/leaf/stem extract according to a specific proportion. By compounding the components into the composition, the availability of the components is obviously increased, and the effect of repairing the skin barrier is obviously improved. Meanwhile, the composition for repairing the skin barrier is combined with a natural preservative, and the prepared cosmetic product for repairing the skin barrier has the advantages of good stability, small irritation, good skin feel and remarkable repairing effect.
In this regard, the present invention adopts the following technical scheme:
in one aspect, the invention relates to a composition for repairing skin barrier, characterized in that the composition for repairing skin barrier consists of white birch sap and willow (EPILOBIUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM) flower/leaf/stem extract in a weight ratio of (2-1) (1-0.6), the white birch sap consists of white birch (BETULA ALBA) sap and asian white birch (BETULA PLATYPHYLLA) sap in a weight ratio of (20:80-80:20);
further, the weight ratio of the white birch sap to the willow (EPILOBIUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM) flower/leaf/stem extract is (1.8-1.5): (0.9-0.7), and the weight ratio of the white birch (BETULA ALBA) sap to the asian white birch (BETULA PLATYPHYLLA) sap is 30:70-70:30;
still further, the weight ratio of the white birch sap to the willow (EPILOBIUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM) flower/leaf/stem extract is 1.65:0.85, and the weight ratio of the white birch (BETULA ALBA) sap to the asian birch (BETULA PLATYPHYLLA) sap is 60:40.
In another aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for repairing skin barrier, characterized in that it comprises, by weight, 5-15% of moisturizer, 0-20% of natural oil, 0.5-2% of skin conditioner, 0.5-3% of emulsifier, 1-7% of composition for repairing skin barrier, 0.1-1.5% of natural preservative and the balance of solvent, wherein the composition for repairing skin barrier is as described above;
further, the cosmetic composition comprises, by weight, 7-12% of a humectant, 0-18% of natural oil, 1-3% of a skin conditioning agent, 0-2% of an emulsifying agent, 3-5% of a composition for repairing skin barrier, 0.3-1% of a natural preservative and the balance of a solvent.
Still further, the humectant is selected from one or more of glycerin, hyaluronic acid, squalane, glycerin, sorbitol, panthenol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, trehalose, xylitol, glycine, or serine; the natural oil is selected from one or more of Cinnamomum spinosum (ARGANIA SPINOA) kernel oil, butyrospermum parkii (BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII) fruit oil, olea EUROPAEA (Olea EUROPAEA) fruit oil, jojoba (SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS) seed oil or Rosa CANINA (ROSA CANINA) fruit oil; the skin conditioner is selected from one or more of niacin, chamomile (CHRYSANTHELLUM INDICUM) extract, ALOE VERA (ALOE VERA) extract, tocopherol or centella asiatica (CENTELLA ASIATICA) extract; one or more of the emulsifiers whey protein, beeswax or hydrogenated lecithin; the natural preservative is selected from one or more of licorice (GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA) extract, tea (CAMELLIA SINENSIS) leaf extract, grape (VITIS VINIFERA) seed extract or antimicrobial peptide; the solvent is selected from one or more of water, pentanediol, hexanediol or octanediol;
further, the natural preservative is selected from licorice (GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA) extract and tea (CAMELLIA SINENSIS) leaf extract, wherein the weight ratio of licorice (GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA) extract to tea (CAMELLIA SINENSIS) leaf extract is 1:1.5-1.5:1;
still further, the weight ratio of licorice (GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA) extract to tea (CAMELLIA SINENSIS) leaf extract is 1.2:1.3.
In a third aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic product characterized in that it is prepared from any of the aforementioned cosmetic compositions;
further, the cosmetic is toning lotion, essence or emulsion;
still further, the cosmetic may also include other conventional cosmetic adjuvants.
Preferably, the cosmetic is a toning lotion which is prepared from the following raw materials in parts by weight:
hyaluronic acid 5%, glycerol 3%, niacin 2%, chamomile (CHRYSANTHELLUM INDICUM) extract 2%, ALOE VERA (ALOE VERA) extract 1%, birch (BETULA ALBA) juice 1.584%, asian birch (BETULA PLATYPHYLLA) juice 1.056%, willow (EPILOBIUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM) flower/leaf/stem extract 1.36%, licorice (GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA) extract 0.24%, tea (CAMELLIA SINENSIS) leaf extract 0.26% and the balance water;
further, the preparation method of the toning lotion comprises the following steps:
1) Adding water, glycerol, hyaluronic acid and nicotinic acid according to the formula amount into a reaction kettle, starting stirring, heating to 75-80 ℃, and uniformly stirring;
2) Cooling circulating water, stirring while cooling, adding flos Matricariae Chamomillae (CHRYSANTHELLUM INDICUM) extract, aloe (Aloe VERA) extract, betula ALBA (Betula ALBA) juice, betula Asiatica (BETULA PLATYPHYLLA) juice, liriosa (EPILOBIUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM) flower/leaf/stem extract, glycyrrhrizae radix (GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA) extract, and folium Camelliae sinensis (CAMELLIA SINENSIS) extract at a formula amount when the temperature is reduced to 40-45deg.C, and stirring;
3) Continuously stirring and cooling to room temperature, taking out from the pot, and filling after the detection is qualified.
Preferably, the cosmetic is an essence, and the essence is prepared from the following raw materials in parts by weight:
2% hyaluronic acid, 5% glycerol, 0.5% niacin, 5% ARGANIA SPINOSA (ARGANIA SPINOSA) kernel oil, 3% shea butter (BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII) fruit fat, 2% tocopherol, 0.5% hydrogenated lecithin, 1.584% birch (BETULA ALBA) juice, 1.056% asian white birch (BETULA PLATYPHYLLA) juice, 1.36% willow (EPILOBIUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM) flower/leaf/stem extract, 0.168% licorice (GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA) extract, 0.182% tea (CAMELLIA SINENSIS) leaf extract, and the balance water;
further, the preparation method of the essence comprises the following steps:
1) Adding water, glycerol, hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, ARGANIA SPINOSA (ARGANIA SPINOSA) kernel oil, butter (BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII) fruit fat, tocopherol and hydrogenated lecithin according to the formula amount into a reaction pot, starting stirring, heating to 75-80 ℃, and uniformly stirring;
2) Cooling circulating water, stirring while cooling, adding the formula amount of white birch (Betula ALBA) juice, asian birch (BETULA PLATYPHYLLA) juice, willow (EPILOBIUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM) flower/leaf/stem extract, licorice (GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA) extract and tea (CAMELLIA SINENSIS) leaf extract when the temperature is reduced to 40-45 ℃, and stirring uniformly;
3) Continuously stirring and cooling to room temperature, taking out from the pot, and filling after the detection is qualified.
Preferably, the cosmetic is an emulsion, and the emulsion is prepared from the following raw materials in parts by weight:
2% of hyaluronic acid, 2% of glycerol, 2% of squalane, 1% of nicotinic acid, 5% of ARGANIA SPINOSA (ARGANIA SPINOSA) kernel oil, 5% of shea butter (BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII) fruit fat, 1% of tocopherol, 1% of hydrogenated lecithin, 1.584% of birch (BETULA ALBA) sap, 1.056% of white birch (BETULA PLATYPHYLLA) sap, 1.36% of willow (EPILOBIUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM) flower/leaf/stem extract, 0.24% of licorice (GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA) extract, 0.26% of tea (CAMELLIA SINENSIS) leaf extract and the balance of water;
the preparation method of the emulsion comprises the following steps:
1) Pre-dispersing hyaluronic acid, glycerol, nicotinic acid and tocopherol in a formula amount, and then adding water and uniformly stirring to serve as a phase I for later use;
2) Mixing squalane, ARGANIA SPINOSA (ARGANIA SPINOSA) kernel oil and butter (BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII) fruit fat in a formula amount, and adding the mixture into the phase I prepared in the step 1);
3) Adding the hydrogenated lecithin in the formula amount into the phase I, uniformly stirring, and adjusting the stirring speed according to the viscosity change;
4) Adding succus Betulae Pendulae (Betula ALBA) juice, succus Betulae Asini (BETULA PLATYPHYLLA) juice, herba Lithospermi Albae (EPILOBIUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM) flower/leaf/stem extract, glycyrrhrizae radix (GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA) extract, and folium Camelliae sinensis (CAMELLIA SINENSIS) extract into phase I, stirring, taking out, detecting, and packaging.
In addition, the invention also relates to the application of any composition for repairing skin barrier or any cosmetic composition in the invention in preparing cosmetics with the effect of repairing skin barrier;
further, the cosmetic with the effect of repairing skin barrier is toning lotion, essence or emulsion.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following advantages:
according to the invention, the white birch (Betula ALBA) juice, the Asian white birch (BETULA PLATYPHYLLA) juice and the willow (EPILOBIUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM) flower/leaf/stem extract are compounded into the composition according to a specific proportion, so that the availability of each component is obviously increased compared with that of single use, and the composition has a good effect of repairing skin barriers. Meanwhile, the natural preservative combination consisting of the licorice (GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA) extract and the tea (CAMELLIA SINENSIS) leaf extract and the natural emulsifier are matched, so that the cosmetic has lower irritation and is more suitable for consumers with damaged skin barriers while maintaining excellent preservative stability.
Drawings
FIG. 1 inhibition of NO release by different Betula alba compositions
FIG. 2 cell proliferation potency of different plant compositions
FIG. 3 skin barrier repair ability of different products
Detailed Description
The starting materials, reagents or apparatus used in the following examples are all available from conventional commercial sources or may be obtained by methods known in the art unless otherwise specified.
The invention will be further illustrated with reference to specific examples. It is to be understood that these examples are illustrative of the present invention and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention. The experimental methods, in which specific conditions are not noted in the following examples, are generally conducted under conventional conditions or under conditions recommended by the manufacturer. Parts and percentages are parts by weight and percentages by weight unless otherwise indicated.
Abbreviations used herein have the following meanings:
BA-J: betula ALBA (Betula ALBA) sap;
BP-J: the Asian white birch (BETULA PLATYPHYLLA) sap;
BA-BP: bark powder of Betula ALBA (Betula ALBA);
BP-BP: bark powder of Betula Asiatica (BETULA PLATYPHYLLA);
BA-BE: a BETULA ALBA (Betula ALBA) bark extract;
EA-W: willow herb (EPILOBIUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM) flower/leaf/stem extract;
EA-L: willow herb (EPILOBIUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM) leaf extract;
GG: licorice (GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA) extract;
CS: tea (CAMELLIA SINENSIS) leaf extract;
PO: phenoxyethanol.
EXAMPLE one preparation of Betula alba composition
The corresponding raw materials were weighed according to the composition ratios listed in Table 1 to prepare the white birch compositions BJ1-BJ17, each of which had a total weight of 1g.
TABLE 1 composition ratios of different Betula alba compositions
Experimental example 1 inhibition of LPS-induced RAW264.7 cells by Betula alba compositions with different proportions
The experiment utilizes LPS to induce RAW264.7 cells to generate anaphylactic reaction and release NO (nitric oxide). The magnitude of the NO inhibition can reflect the magnitude of the anti-inflammatory ability of the sample.
The experimental method comprises the following steps:
(1) Sample preparation
As a positive control working solution, 1. Mu.g/mL of LPS PBS was prepared. 10mg of each of the prepared white birch compositions BJ1-BJ17 is weighed and dissolved in 100mL of positive control working solution to prepare 10% working solution of a sample to be tested, and each 100mL of working solution of the sample to be tested contains 10mg of the sample to be tested and 0.1 mug of LPS.
(2) Cell culture
RAW264.7 cells were seeded into 96-well plates at 100. Mu.L each, 5X 10 3 cells/wells.
At 37 ℃,5% CO 2 Is cultured in an incubator for 24 hours.
(3) Sample detection
After 24 hours of cell culture, the medium was removed and washed with PBS. After washing, 90. Mu.L of culture medium and 10. Mu.L of working solution of the sample to be tested or working solution of positive control are added into each hole (the final concentration of the sample to be tested in each hole is kept to be 1mg/mL, and the final concentration of LPS is kept to be 0.1. Mu.g/mL).
After the sample is added, the mixture is put into 37 ℃ and 5 percent CO 2 Is cultured in an incubator for 20 hours. After 20 hours, 50. Mu.L of the medium was removed and placed in a new 96-well plate, 50. Mu.L of 1% Griess reagent was added, and the mixture was mixed and reacted in the dark for 10 minutes. The absorbance of the samples was measured at 540nm by the microplate reader and repeated 3 times in parallel.
NO inhibition% = (a LPS -A BJ )/A LPS ×100％
Wherein: a is that LPS Represents the absorbance of the positive control sample, A BJ Absorbance of each test sample.
The experimental results are shown in FIG. 1.
Conclusion: the anti-inflammatory effect is best when the birch (Betula ALBA) sap and the Asian birch (BETULA PLATYPHYLLA) sap are compounded into a composition according to the ratio of 60:40, and is superior to the single birch sap or birch extract. The anti-inflammatory effect of the white birch sap is better than that of the single white birch raw material, but the anti-inflammatory effect of the white birch sap is better than that of the white birch (Betula ALBA) sap and the white birch (BETULA PLATYPHYLLA) sap.
EXAMPLE two preparation of a plant composition
The corresponding raw materials were weighed according to the composition ratios listed in Table 2 to prepare vegetable compositions C1-C9, each having a total weight of 0.1kg.
TABLE 2 composition ratios of different plant compositions
Experimental example 2 proliferation of keratinocytes by different proportions of plant composition
The present experiment reflects the size of the reparative capacity of the samples by evaluating the proliferation effect of different plant compositions on keratinocytes.
The experimental method comprises the following steps:
(1) Sample preparation
100mg of each of the prepared plant compositions C1-C9 is weighed and dissolved in 100mL of culture medium to prepare 1mg/mL of working solution of a sample to be detected.
(2) Cell culture
Human immortalized keratinocyte (HaCaT) cells were seeded into 96-well plates, each well at 100. Mu.L, 5X 10 3 cells/wells.
At 37 ℃,5% CO 2 Is cultured in an incubator for 24 hours.
(3) Sample detection
1) And (3) dosing intervention: after the cells are grown completely in an adherence way, the working solution of the sample to be tested is used for liquid exchange and drug addition treatment, meanwhile, fresh culture medium is used as a control group for liquid exchange treatment, each hole is 100 mu L, 3 compound holes are arranged, and the cells are put back into a cell incubator for continuous culture.
2) CCK-8 assay: the original medium was pipetted 24 hours after dosing intervention and the medium containing 10% CCK-8 was subjected to a liquid change treatment with 100. Mu.L per well. Incubation was continued for 1 hour after mixing.
3) And (3) measuring absorbance under the condition of 450nm wavelength of the enzyme label instrument. Cell viability (%) = test sample group OD value/control group OD value x 100%.
The experimental results are shown in FIG. 2.
Conclusion: when the white birch juice and the willow herb (EPILOBIUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM) flower/leaf/stem extract are compounded into the composition according to the weight ratio of 1.65:0.85, the keratinocyte proliferation effect is optimal and is superior to that of the white birch juice or the willow herb extract alone. And the effect of the combined willow orchid/leaf/stem extract and the white birch juice is better than that of the combination of the willow orchid leaf extract and the white birch juice.
EXAMPLE three preparation of Natural preservative compositions
The corresponding raw materials were weighed according to the composition ratios listed in Table 3 to prepare natural preservative compositions AS1 to AS4, each of which had a total weight of 0.1kg.
TABLE 3 composition ratios of different plant compositions
Experimental example 3 antibacterial effects of Natural preservative compositions of different proportions
The test reflects the preservative capacity of the samples by evaluating the antimicrobial effect of different natural preservative compositions.
The experimental method comprises the following steps:
1mg of each of the above-prepared natural preservative compositions was taken and dissolved in 100mL of sterilized water to be used as a sample to be tested. 1mg of phenoxyethanol was additionally weighed and dissolved in 100mL of sterile water as a control. The sample to be measured and the control 1mL are respectively taken and added into a 10mL culture dish containing sterile culture medium, and then mixed by shaking. Candida albicans, staphylococcus aureus and pseudomonas aeruginosa were each dropped as a liquid into the petri dishes, wherein each drop of microbial liquid contained about 1 million microorganisms. The dishes were then shaken, allowed to incubate at 37℃for 72 hours, and then observed for microbial growth, as shown in Table 4.
TABLE 4 antibacterial ability of different natural preservative compositions
The results show that the natural preservative composition prepared from licorice (GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA) extract and tea (CAMELLIA SINENSIS) leaf extract in a weight ratio of 1.2:1.3 is comparable to the chemically synthesized preservative phenoxyethanol in terms of antibacterial ability.
Experimental example 4 safety test
Sample preparation: AS1-AS4 compositions were prepared AS 1% wt aqueous solutions for use.
Sample measurement: soaking 4 layers of each sample solution for 1cm 2 And placing gauze with the size on the flexion side of the forearm, covering the gauze with transparent glass paper slightly larger than the gauze, fixing the periphery with adhesive plaster, taking down the gauze after 48 hours, checking and inducing the reaction of local skin, and judging the safety result of each matrix sample according to the local skin appearance after 48 hours and 72 hours.
The safety of samples AS1-AS4 was tested and the skin adverse reaction grading criteria for the patch test are shown in Table 5.
TABLE 5 skin adverse reaction grading Standard for Patch test
| Adverse skin reactions | Grading |
| Non-reaction | 0 |
| Fading red spots | 1 |
| Erythema, infiltration, papule | 2 |
| Erythema, edema, papule, blister | 3 |
| Erythema, edema, bulla | 4 |
The results showed that the local skin of samples AS1-AS3 showed no erythema and redness compared with the non-tested skin after 48 hours and 72 hours, and the classification of samples AS1-AS3 was 0. The local skin of the sample AS4 has the phenomena of erythema and swelling, and the like, which shows that the natural preservative composition and the chemical synthetic preservative have smaller skin irritation, no skin allergy and better safety under the condition of the same antibacterial capability, and are suitable for people with damaged skin barriers.
Example IV preparation of a lotion for repairing skin Barrier
A lotion formula for repairing skin barrier:
the composite material is prepared from the following raw materials in parts by weight:
hyaluronic acid 5%, glycerol 3%, niacin 2%, chamomile (CHRYSANTHELLUM INDICUM) extract 2%, ALOE VERA (ALOE VERA) extract 1%, birch (BETULA ALBA) juice 1.584%, asian birch (BETULA PLATYPHYLLA) juice 1.056%, willow (EPILOBIUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM) flower/leaf/stem extract 1.36%, licorice (GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA) extract 0.24%, tea (CAMELLIA SINENSIS) leaf extract 0.26% and the balance water;
the preparation method of the toning lotion comprises the following steps:
1) Adding water, glycerol, hyaluronic acid and nicotinic acid according to the formula amount into a reaction kettle, starting stirring, heating to 75-80 ℃, and uniformly stirring;
2) Cooling circulating water, stirring while cooling, adding flos Matricariae Chamomillae (CHRYSANTHELLUM INDICUM) extract, aloe (Aloe VERA) extract, betula ALBA (Betula ALBA) juice, betula Asiatica (BETULA PLATYPHYLLA) juice, liriosa (EPILOBIUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM) flower/leaf/stem extract, glycyrrhrizae radix (GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA) extract, and folium Camelliae sinensis (CAMELLIA SINENSIS) extract at a formula amount when the temperature is reduced to 40-45deg.C, and stirring;
3) Continuously stirring and cooling to room temperature, taking out from the pot, and filling after the detection is qualified.
Example five preparation of essence for repairing skin Barrier
An essence formula for repairing skin barrier:
the composite material is prepared from the following raw materials in parts by weight:
2% hyaluronic acid, 5% glycerol, 0.5% niacin, 5% ARGANIA SPINOSA (ARGANIA SPINOSA) kernel oil, 3% shea butter (BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII) fruit fat, 2% tocopherol, 0.5% hydrogenated lecithin, 1.584% birch (BETULA ALBA) juice, 1.056% asian white birch (BETULA PLATYPHYLLA) juice, 1.36% willow (EPILOBIUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM) flower/leaf/stem extract, 0.168% licorice (GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA) extract, 0.182% tea (CAMELLIA SINENSIS) leaf extract, and the balance water;
the preparation method of the essence comprises the following steps:
1) Adding water, glycerol, hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, ARGANIA SPINOSA (ARGANIA SPINOSA) kernel oil, butter (BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII) fruit fat, tocopherol and hydrogenated lecithin according to the formula amount into a reaction pot, starting stirring, heating to 75-80 ℃, and uniformly stirring;
2) Cooling circulating water, stirring while cooling, adding the formula amount of white birch (Betula ALBA) juice, asian birch (BETULA PLATYPHYLLA) juice, willow (EPILOBIUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM) flower/leaf/stem extract, licorice (GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA) extract and tea (CAMELLIA SINENSIS) leaf extract when the temperature is reduced to 40-45 ℃, and stirring uniformly;
3) Continuously stirring and cooling to room temperature, taking out from the pot, and filling after the detection is qualified.
Example six preparation of emulsion for repairing skin Barrier
An emulsion formulation for repairing skin barrier:
the composite material is prepared from the following raw materials in parts by weight:
2% of hyaluronic acid, 2% of glycerol, 2% of squalane, 1% of nicotinic acid, 5% of ARGANIA SPINOSA (ARGANIA SPINOSA) kernel oil, 5% of shea butter (BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII) fruit fat, 1% of tocopherol, 1% of hydrogenated lecithin, 1.584% of birch (BETULA ALBA) sap, 1.056% of white birch (BETULA PLATYPHYLLA) sap, 1.36% of willow (EPILOBIUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM) flower/leaf/stem extract, 0.24% of licorice (GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA) extract, 0.26% of tea (CAMELLIA SINENSIS) leaf extract and the balance of water;
the preparation method of the emulsion comprises the following steps:
1) Pre-dispersing hyaluronic acid, glycerol, nicotinic acid and tocopherol in a formula amount, and then adding water and uniformly stirring to serve as a phase I for later use;
2) Mixing squalane, ARGANIA SPINOSA (ARGANIA SPINOSA) kernel oil and butter (BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII) fruit fat in a formula amount, and adding the mixture into the phase I prepared in the step 1);
3) Adding the hydrogenated lecithin in the formula amount into the phase I, uniformly stirring, and adjusting the stirring speed according to the viscosity change;
4) Adding succus Betulae Pendulae (Betula ALBA) juice, succus Betulae Asini (BETULA PLATYPHYLLA) juice, herba Lithospermi Albae (EPILOBIUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM) flower/leaf/stem extract, glycyrrhrizae radix (GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA) extract, and folium Camelliae sinensis (CAMELLIA SINENSIS) extract into phase I, stirring, taking out, detecting, and packaging.
Experimental example 5 stability test
Sample measurement: the lotion of example four, the essence of example five and the emulsion of example six were stored at 50 ℃, 4 ℃, room temperature (25 ℃) and direct sunlight for 2 months, respectively, and the appearance was observed.
The results show that: the toning lotion in the fourth embodiment, the essence in the fifth embodiment and the emulsion in the sixth embodiment have good stability, and the cosmetic is stored at a constant temperature of 50 ℃ for 2 months, so that each product has no layering and no precipitation. The natural preservative composition of the present invention is described as enabling cosmetics to have good stability.
Experimental example 6 skin Barrier repair efficacy test
The test population was 20 volunteers with reddish faces, and each 5 volunteers were divided into 4 groups of test subjects, and the lotion in example four, the essence in example five, the emulsion in example six and a commercial emollient cream of the present invention were used respectively.
Test area: full face;
the method comprises the following steps: it is used twice daily in the morning and evening. The percutaneous water loss of the cheek parts, abbreviated as TEWL (g/square meter h), i.e., how much water is lost per square meter area per hour, was tested on a Germany CK company TM300 tester at week 0 and after continuous use until week 4 and week 8, respectively. Skin moisture loss TEWL is a very important parameter for assessing the function of the skin moisture barrier, and has been widely accepted internationally to reflect the integrity of the skin barrier function. Standard TEWL is measured in the dry, antiperspirant state of skin at ambient temperature 24 ℃ and ambient humidity at 50%.
Evaluation criteria: the more intact the skin protection, the higher the moisture content, and the lower the TEWL value for skin moisture loss, i.e. the skin barrier is repaired, as shown in fig. 3.
From the above data, it can be seen that the products of examples four-six, compared to the commercial skin cream, all reduce the percutaneous water loss value (TEWL) after a period of use, indicating a remarkable effect of repairing the skin barrier.
The foregoing is a further detailed description of the invention in connection with the preferred embodiments, and it is not intended that the invention be limited to the specific embodiments described. It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that several simple deductions or substitutions may be made without departing from the spirit of the invention, and these should be considered to be within the scope of the invention.
Claims (10)
1. A composition for repairing skin barrier, characterized in that the composition for repairing skin barrier consists of white birch sap and willow (EPILOBIUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM) flower/leaf/stem extract in a weight ratio of (2-1): (1-0.6), the white birch sap consists of white birch (BETULA ALBA) sap and asian white birch (BETULA PLATYPHYLLA) sap, and the weight ratio of white birch (BETULA ALBA) sap and asian white birch (BETULA PLATYPHYLLA) sap is 20:80-80:20.
2. The composition for repairing skin barrier according to claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of the white birch sap and the willow (EPILOBIUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM) flower/leaf/stem extract is (1.8-1.5): (0.9-0.7), and the weight ratio of the white birch (BETULA ALBA) sap and the white birch (BETULA PLATYPHYLLA) sap is 30:70-70:30;
preferably, the weight ratio of the white birch sap to the willow (EPILOBIUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM) flower/leaf/stem extract is 1.65:0.85, and the weight ratio of the white birch (BETULA ALBA) sap to the asian birch (BETULA PLATYPHYLLA) sap is 60:40.
3. A cosmetic composition for repairing skin barrier, characterized in that the cosmetic composition comprises, by weight, 5-15% of a humectant, 0-20% of a natural oil, 0.5-2% of a skin conditioning agent, 0.5-3% of an emulsifying agent, 1-7% of a composition for repairing skin barrier, 0.1-1.5% of a natural preservative and the balance of a solvent, wherein the composition for repairing skin barrier is the composition for repairing skin barrier according to any one of claims 1 or 2;
preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises, by weight, 7-12% of a humectant, 0-18% of a natural oil, 1-3% of a skin conditioning agent, 0-2% of an emulsifier, 3-5% of a composition for repairing skin barrier, 0.3-1% of a natural preservative, and the balance of a solvent.
4. A cosmetic composition according to claim 3, wherein the humectant is selected from one or more of glycerol, hyaluronic acid, squalane, glycerol, sorbitol, panthenol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, trehalose, xylitol, glycine or serine; the natural oil is selected from one or more of Cinnamomum spinosum (ARGANIA SPINOA) kernel oil, butyrospermum parkii (BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII) fruit oil, olea EUROPAEA (Olea EUROPAEA) fruit oil, jojoba (SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS) seed oil or Rosa CANINA (ROSA CANINA) fruit oil; the skin conditioner is selected from one or more of niacin, chamomile (CHRYSANTHELLUM INDICUM) extract, ALOE VERA (ALOE VERA) extract, tocopherol or centella asiatica (CENTELLA ASIATICA) extract; one or more of the emulsifiers whey protein, beeswax or hydrogenated lecithin; the natural preservative is selected from one or more of licorice (GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA) extract, tea (CAMELLIA SINENSIS) leaf extract, grape (VITIS VINIFERA) seed extract or antimicrobial peptide; the solvent is selected from one or more of water, pentanediol, hexanediol or octanediol.
5. The cosmetic composition of claim 4, wherein the natural preservative is selected from the group consisting of licorice (GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA) extract and tea (CAMELLIA SINENSIS) leaf extract, the licorice (GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA) extract and tea (CAMELLIA SINENSIS) leaf extract being present in a weight ratio of 1:1.5-1.5:1;
preferably, the weight ratio of licorice (GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA) extract to tea (CAMELLIA SINENSIS) leaf extract is 1.2:1.3.
6. A cosmetic product, characterized in that it is prepared from the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 3 to 5, said cosmetic product being a lotion, a concentrate or an emulsion, said cosmetic product also comprising other conventional cosmetic adjuvants.
7. The cosmetic according to claim 6, wherein the cosmetic is a toning lotion, and the toning lotion is prepared from the following raw materials in parts by weight:
hyaluronic acid 5%, glycerol 3%, niacin 2%, chamomile (CHRYSANTHELLUM INDICUM) extract 2%, ALOE VERA (ALOE VERA) extract 1%, birch (BETULA ALBA) juice 1.584%, asian birch (BETULA PLATYPHYLLA) juice 1.056%, willow (EPILOBIUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM) flower/leaf/stem extract 1.36%, licorice (GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA) extract 0.24%, tea (CAMELLIA SINENSIS) leaf extract 0.26% and the balance water.
8. The cosmetic according to claim 6, wherein the cosmetic is an essence, and the essence is prepared from the following raw materials in parts by weight:
2% of hyaluronic acid, 5% of glycerol, 0.5% of nicotinic acid, 5% of ARGANIA SPINOSA (ARGANIA SPINOSA) kernel oil, 3% of shea butter (BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII) fruit fat, 2% of tocopherol, 0.5% of hydrogenated lecithin, 1.584% of white birch (BETULA ALBA) sap, 1.056% of white birch (BETULA PLATYPHYLLA) sap, 1.36% of willow (EPILOBIUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM) flower/leaf/stem extract, 0.168% of licorice (GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA) extract, 0.182% of tea (CAMELLIA SINENSIS) leaf extract and the balance of water.
9. The cosmetic according to claim 6, characterized in that it is an emulsion made up of the following raw materials in weight ratio:
2% of hyaluronic acid, 2% of glycerol, 2% of squalane, 1% of nicotinic acid, 5% of ARGANIA SPINOSA (ARGANIA SPINOSA) kernel oil, 5% of shea butter (BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII) fruit fat, 1% of tocopherol, 1% of hydrogenated lecithin, 1.584% of white birch (BETULA ALBA) sap, 1.056% of white birch (BETULA PLATYPHYLLA) sap, 1.36% of willow (EPILOBIUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM) flower/leaf/stem extract, 0.24% of licorice (GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA) extract, 0.26% of tea (CAMELLIA SINENSIS) leaf extract and the balance of water.
10. Use of the composition for repairing skin barrier according to claim 1 or 2, or the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 3 to 5, for preparing a cosmetic having an effect of repairing skin barrier, which is a lotion, an essence or an emulsion.
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Citations (6)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| CN104938544A (en) * | 2015-06-24 | 2015-09-30 | 陈琳仁 | Method for preparing natural preservative and application thereof |
| CN110339220A (en) * | 2018-04-02 | 2019-10-18 | 大江生医股份有限公司 | Willow herb extract is used to be promoted the purposes of gene performance amount |
| CN110731929A (en) * | 2019-08-21 | 2020-01-31 | 浙江养生堂天然药物研究所有限公司 | Mixed birch juice and its application in skin care cosmetic composition |
| WO2020087146A1 (en) * | 2018-10-29 | 2020-05-07 | Phytoplenus Bioativos S.A. | Formulation based on medicinal plant, or part or extract thereof, use of the formulation and product including said formulation |
| CN114617217A (en) * | 2022-03-29 | 2022-06-14 | 陇东学院 | Thyme essential oil food preservative and preparation method thereof |
| CN114632136A (en) * | 2020-12-15 | 2022-06-17 | 浙江养生堂天然药物研究所有限公司 | Skin external composition with enhanced anti-eczema effect |
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- 2023-11-30 CN CN202311621880.XA patent/CN117482020B/en active Active
Patent Citations (6)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN104938544A (en) * | 2015-06-24 | 2015-09-30 | 陈琳仁 | Method for preparing natural preservative and application thereof |
| CN110339220A (en) * | 2018-04-02 | 2019-10-18 | 大江生医股份有限公司 | Willow herb extract is used to be promoted the purposes of gene performance amount |
| WO2020087146A1 (en) * | 2018-10-29 | 2020-05-07 | Phytoplenus Bioativos S.A. | Formulation based on medicinal plant, or part or extract thereof, use of the formulation and product including said formulation |
| CN110731929A (en) * | 2019-08-21 | 2020-01-31 | 浙江养生堂天然药物研究所有限公司 | Mixed birch juice and its application in skin care cosmetic composition |
| CN114632136A (en) * | 2020-12-15 | 2022-06-17 | 浙江养生堂天然药物研究所有限公司 | Skin external composition with enhanced anti-eczema effect |
| CN114617217A (en) * | 2022-03-29 | 2022-06-14 | 陇东学院 | Thyme essential oil food preservative and preparation method thereof |
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