CN117017874B - 一种抗皱紧致面霜及其制备方法 - Google Patents
一种抗皱紧致面霜及其制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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- CN117017874B CN117017874B CN202311287053.1A CN202311287053A CN117017874B CN 117017874 B CN117017874 B CN 117017874B CN 202311287053 A CN202311287053 A CN 202311287053A CN 117017874 B CN117017874 B CN 117017874B
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种抗皱紧致面霜及其制备方法,该面霜包括不饱和酸酰化六肽0.8~3%、植物提取物0.5~2.2%、海藻糖2~3%、鲸蜡硬脂醇2~3%、甘油5~8%、丁二醇2~5%、透明质酸1~4%、水解胶原1~5%、EDTA二钠0.4~0.8%,余量为水。活性成分不饱和酸酰化六肽系由不饱和酸酰化六肽得到,相比于乙酰基六肽‑1具有更优的皮肤渗透性、更优的抗皱功效和更低的皮肤刺激性。
Description
技术领域
本发明属于护肤品技术领域,具体涉及一种抗皱紧致面霜及其制备方法。
背景技术
抗皱护肤品是一种受到广泛关注的护肤产品,其目的是减少和改善皮肤上的皱纹,从而使皮肤更加光滑和年轻。抗皱护肤品的研发借助于多种有效成分,其中一些常见的有效成分包括肽类、维生素C、透明质酸和再生细胞因子等。肽类是一类小分子蛋白质,可以通过刺激皮肤细胞产生胶原蛋白和弹性纤维蛋白等,从而改善皮肤弹性和减少皱纹。例如,乙酰基六肽-1是一种常用的肽类成分,具有促进胶原蛋白合成的能力。肽类成分广泛应用于抗皱护肤品中,具有良好的皮肤渗透性和生物活性,可以有效地改善皮肤弹性和纹理,但部分肽类成分可能对特定人群存在过敏反应风险,因此在使用抗皱护肤品之前应进行皮肤测试,部分肽类则皮肤渗透性较差,部分肽类则在护肤品组分中稳定性较差从而导致活性较低。开发或者改性综合性能优异的多肽应用于抗皱产品具有现实意义。
发明内容
针对现有技术中存在不足,本发明提供一种抗皱紧致面霜,该面霜的活性成分包括不饱和酸酰化乙六肽、植物提取物。
本研究发现不饱和酸酰化肽能够大大促进六肽对成纤细胞产生胶原蛋白,得益于不饱和酸酰化后,多肽的二级结构发生了改变;另外,一些实施例中,不饱和酸酰化肽的皮肤渗透性更好、皮肤刺激性更低。
本发明提供的不饱和酸酰化六肽,所述不饱和酸选自(2E,4E,6E,10E)-3,7,11,15-四甲基十六烷-2,4,6,10,14-戊酸、法尼酸、香叶基香叶酸、想叶酸中的一种;所述不饱和酸酰化六肽的氨基酸序列为Xc-His-Ala-Leu-Arg-Phe-Trp-NH2。
所述(2E,4E,6E,10E)-3,7,11,15-四甲基十六烷-2,4,6,10,14-戊酸具有如下结构:
所述法尼酸具有如下结构:
所述香叶酸具有如下结构:
所述香叶基香叶酸具有如下结构:
所述不饱和酸酰化六肽的制备方法如下:
S1:Rink Amide AM 树脂经活化、脱保护后,首先加入Fmoc-Trp(Boc)-OH进行反应,得到Fmoc-Trp(Boc)-树脂;脱保护剂为哌啶/DMF溶液(20/80 v/v);
S2:按照不饱和酸酰化六肽-1的氨基酸序列从第二个苯丙氨酸开始到第6个组氨酸逐步固相偶联氨基酸,得到:Fmoc-His(Boc)-Ala-Leu-Arg(Boc)2-Phe-Trp(Boc)-树脂;多肽缩合剂为苯并三氮唑-N,N,N’,N’-四甲基脲六氟磷酸酯(HBTU)和二异丙基乙胺(DIEA)。
S3:脱Fmoc保护后加入不饱和酸的酰氯,得到:Xc-His(Boc)-Ala-Leu-Arg(Boc)2-Phe-Trp(Boc)-树脂;所述不饱和酸的酰氯由不饱和酸与草酰氯反应得到;
S4:用含有三氟乙酸的切割液切割,并采用高效液相色谱纯化,得到:Xc-His-Ala-Leu-Arg-Phe-Trp-NH2。
本发明还提供一种含有上述不饱和酸酰化六肽的面霜组分,按质量百分比计算,包括以下组分:
不饱和酸酰化六肽0.8~3%、植物提取物0.5~2.2%、海藻糖2~3%、鲸蜡硬脂醇2~3%、甘油5~8%、丁二醇2~5%、透明质酸1~4%、水解胶原1~5%、EDTA二钠0.4~0.8%,余量为水。
所述植物提取物具体为长心卡帕藻提取物和刺云实果提取物的混合物。购自SILAB公司,产品型号为FILMEXEL;其中,刺云实果提取物是一种天然生物高聚物。长心卡帕藻为藻类的提取物,含有多种维生素和胶质,能有效保湿锁水、维持皮肤弹性,使得皮肤光滑、富有弹性。长心卡帕藻提取物和刺云实果提取物通过IBPN技术互相贯穿共同构成生物聚合网络,具有密集的分子网络组织、显著的生物力学属性和出众的成膜能力,可在皮肤表面形成一层防御、柔韧且不闭塞的膜,如同第二层肌肤,形成不闭塞的屏障以对抗污染物、刺激物和过敏原,保护皮肤天然屏障功能,免受机械应力引起的退化;且还能平滑脸部(身体)的皮肤微起伏,快速且持久淡化皱纹,使皮肤紧致。
有益效果:
本发明提供的不饱和酸酰化六肽相比于乙酰基六肽-1,具有更优的皮肤渗透性,有效促进成纤细胞生产胶原蛋白,且具有较低的皮肤刺激性。
附图说明
图1为实施例1制备的1c-His-Ala-Leu-Arg-Phe-Trp-NH2液相色谱图。
图2为实施例1制备的1c-His-Ala-Leu-Arg-Phe-Trp-NH2质谱图。
图3为实施例2制备的2c-His-Ala-Leu-Arg-Phe-Trp-NH2液相色谱图。
图4为实施例2制备的2c-His-Ala-Leu-Arg-Phe-Trp-NH2质谱图。
图5为实施例3制备的3c-His-Ala-Leu-Arg-Phe-Trp-NH2液相色谱图。
图6为实施例3制备的3c-His-Ala-Leu-Arg-Phe-Trp-NH2质谱图。
图7为实施例4制备的4c-His-Ala-Leu-Arg-Phe-Trp-NH2液相色谱图。
图8为实施例4制备的4c-His-Ala-Leu-Arg-Phe-Trp-NH2质谱图。
具体实施方式
下面结合具体实施例对本发明做进一步详细说明,但实施例并不对本发明做任何形式的限定。除非特别说明,本发明采用的试剂、方法和设备为本技术领域常规试剂、方法和设备。
实施例1
制备(2E,4E,6E,10E)-3,7,11,15-四甲基十六烷-2,4,6,10,14-戊酸酰化六肽,即1c-His-Ala-Leu-Arg-Phe-Trp-NH2。
1、称取2g Rink Amide AM树脂(交联1m/m%二乙烯基苯,取代度为0.5mmol/g,200目),放入多肽合成管中,加入13mL DMF和2mL蓖麻油酸浸泡15min后,将多肽合成管连在真空泵上抽干溶液,得到活化的树脂;
2、向活化的树脂中加入10mL脱保护剂,25℃下,N2吹动搅拌反应10min,抽滤去除溶液,依次用DCM、甲醇、DMF各20mL洗涤树脂3次,每次5min,得到脱保护的树脂;
3、将5mmol Fmoc-Trp(Boc)-OH,6mmol HBTU,6mmol HOBT混合,加入25mL DMF完全溶解,再加入10mmol DIEA,25℃下,避光静置活化5min,得到活化的氨基酸溶液;将活化的氨基酸溶液加入脱保护的树脂中,用N2吹动搅拌,25℃下反应3h后,抽滤去除溶液,依次用DCM、甲醇、DMF各20mL洗涤树脂3次,每次5min,得到Fmoc-Trp(Boc)-树脂;脱保护剂为哌啶/DMF溶液(20/80 v/v);
4、向Fmoc-Trp(Boc)-树脂中加入10mL脱保护剂,25℃下,N2吹动搅拌反应10min,抽滤去除溶液,依次用DCM、甲醇、DMF各20mL洗涤树脂3次,每次5min,得到脱保护的Trp(Boc)-树脂;
5、将5mmol Fmoc-Phe-OH,6mmol HBTU,6mmol HOBT混合,加入25mLDMF完全溶解,再加入10mmol DIEA,25℃下,避光静置活化5min,得到活化的氨基酸溶液;将活化的氨基酸溶液加入Leu-树脂中,用N2吹动搅拌,25℃下反应3h后,抽滤去除溶液,依次用DCM、甲醇、DMF各20mL洗涤树脂3次,每次5min,得到Fmoc-Phe-Trp(Boc)-树脂;
6、按照4和5的步骤依次连接Fmoc-Arg(Boc)2-OH、Fmoc-Leu-OH、Fmoc-Ala-OH、Fmoc-His(Boc)-OH。
7、向Fmoc-His(Boc)-Ala-Leu-Arg(Boc)2-Phe-Trp(Boc)-树脂中加入10mL脱保护剂,25℃下,N2吹动搅拌反应10min,抽滤去除溶液,依次用DCM、甲醇、DMF各20mL洗涤树脂3次,每次5min,得到脱保护的His(Boc)-Ala-Leu-Arg(Boc)2-Phe-Trp(Boc)-树脂;
8、向His(Boc)-Ala-Leu-Arg(Boc)2-Phe-Trp(Boc)-树脂中加入3 mmol (2E,4E,6E,10E)-3,7,11,15-四甲基十六烷-2,4,6,10,14-戊酸酰氯、3mmol DIEA、30mL DCM,25℃下,N2吹动搅拌反应20min后,抽滤去除溶液,依次用DCM、甲醇、DMF各40mL洗涤树脂3次,每次5min,用N2吹干,得到1c-His(Boc)-Ala-Leu-Arg(Boc)2-Phe-Trp(Boc)-树脂;
9、向1c-His(Boc)-Ala-Leu-Arg(Boc)2-Phe-Trp(Boc)-树脂中加入切割液,放入冰水浴中搅拌反应3h,使用砂芯漏斗过滤除去树脂,将滤液在35℃下浓缩至体积不再减少,加入35倍滤液体积的冷冻无水乙醚沉淀多肽,4℃静置40min,4000r/min离心3min,弃去上清,得到沉淀,沉淀用纯水溶解后,冷冻干燥,得到多肽产品。切割液为95wt%TFA的水溶液。
Rink Amide AM树脂购自上海阿拉丁生化科技股份有限公司。
(2E,4E,6E,10E)-3,7,11,15-四甲基十六烷-2,4,6,10,14-戊酸酰氯的制备方法如下:用氯仿溶解(2E,4E,6E,10E)-3,7,11,15-四甲基十六烷-2,4,6,10,14-戊酸,加热至60℃,开始滴加二氯亚砜的氯仿溶液,滴完后搅拌反应6h,反应液旋蒸挥发溶剂,即得到(2E,4E,6E,10E)-3,7,11,15-四甲基十六烷-2,4,6,10,14-戊酸酰氯。酸与二氯亚砜的投料摩尔比为1:1.2。
纯化:将0.1mg待测样品溶于1mL含有0.1%三氟醋酸的超纯水中,若有不溶解的杂质,用0.45μm滤膜过滤,流动相A为0.1%三氟醋酸-水,流动相B为0.1%三氟醋酸-乙腈,待基线平稳后开始上样,上样量为50μL;色谱柱为硅胶烷基键合相C18柱(4.6mm×300mm),采用二元流动相梯度洗脱系统,进行梯度洗脱,即在30min内,流动相B在洗脱剂中的含量从0%-80%按线性关系增长,流速1mL/min,检测波长215nm,25℃下测定。
用Thermo Scientific LCQ Fleet离子肼对偶联物的纯品进行质谱鉴定,分析计算质谱结果,确定目的产物所在峰。质谱条件如下:离子源:ESI;鞘气流速:20psi;辅气流速:8psi;扫气流速:5psi;喷雾电压:4.5KV;毛细管温度:275℃;毛细管电压:35V;套管透镜电压:110V。
图1和图2分别为1c-His-Ala-Leu-Arg-Phe-Trp-NH2的液相色谱图和质谱图,从结果中可以看出,多肽的纯度为95.3%,相对分量为1221.3Da。
实施例2
制备法尼酸酰化六肽,即2c-His-Ala-Leu-Arg-Phe-Trp-NH2。
制备方法与实施例1相同,不同之处在于,以法尼酸酰氯代替(2E,4E,6E,10E)-3,7,11,15-四甲基十六烷-2,4,6,10,14-戊酸酰氯,投料量为:法尼酸酰氯2.55mmol、DIEA3mmol、DCM30mL,反应在25℃下15min。
图3和图4分别为2c-His-Ala-Leu-Arg-Phe-Trp-NH2的液相色谱图和质谱图,从结果中可以看出,多肽的纯度为94.2%,相对分量为1046.4Da。
实施例3
制备香叶酸酰化六肽,即3c-His-Ala-Leu-Arg-Phe-Trp-NH2。
制备方法与实施例1相同,不同之处在于,以香叶酸酰氯代替(2E,4E,6E,10E)-3,7,11,15-四甲基十六烷-2,4,6,10,14-戊酸酰氯,投料量为:香叶酸酰氯2.5mmol、DIEA3.2mmol、DCM 30mL,反应在25℃下15min。
图5和图6分别为3c-His-Ala-Leu-Arg-Phe-Trp-NH2的液相色谱图和质谱图,从结果中可以看出,多肽的纯度为92.8%,相对分量为978.4Da。
实施例4
制备香叶基香叶酸酰化六肽,即
4c-His-Ala-Leu-Arg-Phe-Trp-NH2。
制备方法与实施例1相同,不同之处在于,以香叶基香叶酸酰氯代替(2E,4E,6E,10E)-3,7,11,15-四甲基十六烷-2,4,6,10,14-戊酸酰氯,投料量为:香叶基香叶酸酰氯3.1mmol、DIEA 3.5mmol、DCM 30mL,反应在25℃下25min。
图7和图8分别为4c-His-Ala-Leu-Arg-Phe-Trp-NH2的液相色谱图和质谱图,从结果中可以看出,多肽的纯度为95.3%,相对分量为1114.6Da。
【皮肤刺激性试验】
根据《化妆品安全技术规范》2015年版中毒理学试验方法中的皮肤刺激性/腐蚀性试验方法检测多肽对家兔皮肤的刺激性/腐蚀性。新西兰白色家兔20只(每组四只),身体质量2.3~2.4 kg,购自广州花都区花东信华实验动物养殖场。试验前24 h,将家兔背部脊柱两侧被毛剪掉,剪毛中不损伤皮肤表面,去毛范围为 3 cm×3 cm,涂抹面积 2.5 cm×2.5cm。取0.5 mL浓度为3wt%的多肽溶液涂抹在一侧皮肤上,另一侧涂0.5 mL纯化水作为对照,每天涂抹一次,连续涂抹14 d。涂抹1 h后观察结果,按《化妆品安全技术规范》2015年版的皮肤刺激性/腐蚀性试验标准进行评分(红斑0~4,水肿0~4),具体实验结果见表1。
表1:多肽对家兔皮肤刺激性试验结果(单位:分数)
乙酰基六肽-1购于山西子哲生物科技有限公司。
从表1数据中可知,实施例制备的多肽相对于乙酰基六肽-1致敏程度更低,说明本发明提供的多肽具有低敏性;且对比各个实施例,实施例1和4的皮肤刺激性更低,说明改性的酸分子的分子链越长,得到的多肽对皮肤的刺激性更低。
【皮肤渗透性试验】
利用垂直扩散的实验方法,对实施例1~4和乙酰基六肽-1进行测试,具体实验结果见表2;具体方法如下:将新鲜的猪皮切成直径为2 cm,厚度为1 mm的薄片,利用pH=7 .4的PBS缓冲溶液浸泡12 h后,置于垂直扩散池中进行皮肤渗透实验,实验的温度恒定为32℃,浸泡若干时间后利用紫外分光光度计测试扩散池中多肽的浓度,从而确定累积扩散量,参照Fick扩散定律,单位累积扩散量M(μg/cm2)的计算公式如下公式所示:
式中,为n时间点测得的药品浓度;V为取样体积;/>扩散池总体积;S为测试皮肤总面积。
表2:单位累积扩散率(单位:μg/cm2)
从表中结果可知,本发明实施例的多肽相比于乙酰基六肽-1在皮肤上的渗透性更强,这是由于脂肪链越长对皮肤的亲和性越好。
【抗皱效果评价】
将正常人成肌细胞置于含2/3MEM和1/3M199、2 mmol/L L-谷 氨酰胺、50 U/mL青霉素、50μg/mL链霉素、5%胎牛血清培养基中,于37℃、5%二氧化碳,且明胶包被的平板中培养,直到形成单层肌原纤维。然后将具有背根神经节出生10 d的小鼠胚胎的脊髓外植体置于所述肌细胞单层上,共培养48 h后,观察到从外植体生长出的神经突与肌细胞接触。共培养4周,神经和肌肉已经充分连接,形成具有完全成熟的神经肌肉接头(相当于具有运动终板)充分分化的横纹肌纤维模型,在这一阶段,肌原纤维可以进行规律的收缩。先用显微镜观察培养模型肌肉收缩频率30 s,观察5次并计数,取平均值;然后将待测试多肽加入培养模型中,多肽浓度为0.2±0.02g/L,另外再设空白对照组。在5min、2h和48h 时观察肌肉收缩频率各30 s,并计数,记录结果,具体实验结果见表3。第三次传代正常人成肌细胞、具有“背根神经节”出生10 d小鼠胚胎的脊髓外植体购于彭特法姆股份公司。
表3:多肽诱导肌肉收缩次数(单位:次)
肌原纤维的收缩与皮肤皱变息息相关,收缩的频率越高,皮肤越容易产生皱纹,从结果可以看出,多肽能够明显减少肌原纤维的收缩次数,起到抗皱的作用。
【刺激胶原合成评价】
取兔真皮组织无菌条件下漂洗,置于DMEM高糖培养基(加体积分数为10%胎牛血清)中,剪碎,然后用胶原蛋白酶I在离心管中消化,离心,接种,37℃下培养,传代,取第3代细胞进行实验。
以105/孔的密度接种于24孔板中,加入含有多肽的工作液,培养若干时间后,取细胞培养液做ELISA,检测其中的I型和III型胶原蛋白分泌量,根据标准曲线,使用Curveexpert1.3软件进行分析,得出浓度乘以相应的稀释倍数,得到各个试验组中胶原蛋白的浓度,结果列于表4。
含有多肽的工作液用含有4%FCS的DMEM培养基配制,多肽的浓度为0.1±0.02g/L。兔真皮组织取自新西兰白色家兔。
表4:胶原蛋白含量(单位:ng/mL)
多肽的二级结构采用远紫外圆二色光谱(CD)进行测定,扫描范围190-260 nm。用超纯水溶解样品,配制0.1 mg/mL的多肽溶液,设定参数为带宽1 nm,步长1 nm,平均时间0.5 s,狭缝宽0.02 nm。在温度25℃的条件下进行实验,用溶剂作为空白对照,所有测试样品扣除空白条件下的背景峰值,二级结构(如:α-螺旋、β-折叠、β-转角和无规卷曲)的百分比采用CDPro spectral 拟合软件进行预测,具体实验结果见表5。
表5:多肽的二级结构比例(单位:%)
从图中可以看出,利用不同的酸分子对多肽进行改性,对多肽的结构具有显著的影响,而多肽的结构与其活性具有很大的相关性。
配置不同组分的面霜,制备方法如下:
(1)按比例称取水、不饱和酸酰化六肽、植物提取物、甘油、丁二醇、透明质酸、水解胶原,加入水相锅中搅拌混合均匀,升温至60℃,得到水相料;
(2)按比例称取植物提取物、海藻糖、鲸蜡硬脂醇、EDTA二钠,依次加入油相锅中,加热至80℃搅拌混合均匀,得到油相料;将水相料抽入乳化锅中,搅拌均质下抽入油相料中,在60℃下均质并保温60min即可。
部分原料的来源如下:植物提取物购自SILAB公司,产品型号为FILMEXEL;海藻糖购于Sigma公司;透明质酸购于上海麦克林公司,分子量为3~4万;水解胶原购于湖北诺纳科技有限公司。
实施例5
实施例1制备的不饱和酸酰化六肽1.8%、植物提取物0.8%、海藻糖2.2%、鲸蜡硬脂醇2.1%、甘油5%、丁二醇3%、透明质酸2.5%、水解胶原3%、EDTA二钠0.6%,余量为水。
实施例6
实施例2制备的不饱和酸酰化六肽1.8%、植物提取物0.8%、海藻糖2.2%、鲸蜡硬脂醇2.1%、甘油5%、丁二醇3%、透明质酸2.5%、水解胶原3%、EDTA二钠0.6%,余量为水。
实施例7
实施例3制备的不饱和酸酰化六肽1.8%、植物提取物0.8%、海藻糖2.2%、鲸蜡硬脂醇2.1%、甘油5%、丁二醇3%、透明质酸2.5%、水解胶原3%、EDTA二钠0.6%,余量为水。
实施例8
实施例4制备的不饱和酸酰化六肽1.8%、植物提取物0.8%、海藻糖2.2%、鲸蜡硬脂醇2.1%、甘油5%、丁二醇3%、透明质酸2.5%、水解胶原3%、EDTA二钠0.6%,余量为水。
实施例9
实施例1制备的不饱和酸酰化六肽0.8%、植物提取物0.8%、海藻糖2.2%、鲸蜡硬脂醇2.1%、甘油5%、丁二醇3%、透明质酸2.5%、水解胶原3%、EDTA二钠0.6%,余量为水。
实施例10
实施例1制备的不饱和酸酰化六肽3%、植物提取物0.8%、海藻糖2.2%、鲸蜡硬脂醇2.1%、甘油5%、丁二醇3%、透明质酸2.5%、水解胶原3%、EDTA二钠0.6%,余量为水。
实施例11
实施例1制备的不饱和酸酰化六肽1.8%、植物提取物2.2%、海藻糖2.2%、鲸蜡硬脂醇2.1%、甘油5%、丁二醇3%、透明质酸2.5%、水解胶原3%、EDTA二钠0.6%,余量为水。
实施例12
实施例1制备的不饱和酸酰化六肽1.8%、植物提取物0.8%、海藻糖2.2%、鲸蜡硬脂醇2.1%、甘油5%、丁二醇3%、透明质酸2.5%、水解胶原5%、EDTA二钠0.6%,余量为水。
对比例1
乙酰基六肽-1 1.8%、植物提取物0.8%、海藻糖2.2%、鲸蜡硬脂醇2.1%、甘油5%、丁二醇3%、透明质酸2.5%、水解胶原3%、EDTA二钠0.6%,余量为水。
对比例2
植物提取物0.8%、海藻糖2.2%、鲸蜡硬脂醇2.1%、甘油5%、丁二醇3%、透明质酸2.5%、水解胶原3%、EDTA二钠0.6%,余量为水。
对比例3
实施例1制备的不饱和酸酰化六肽1.8%、植物提取物0.8%、海藻糖2.2%、鲸蜡硬脂醇2.1%、甘油5%、丁二醇3%、透明质酸2.5%、EDTA二钠0.6%,余量为水。
对比例4
植物提取物0.8%、海藻糖2.2%、鲸蜡硬脂醇2.1%、甘油5%、丁二醇3%、透明质酸2.5%、EDTA二钠0.6%,余量为水。
【人体皮肤弹性测试】
对上述实施例5~12和对比例1~3的面霜组分进行测试。
受试人群为35~55岁之间的女性,随机分组,每组15人(不分年龄),采用德国CK公司制造的皮肤弹性CotometerMPA580主机(探头是Reviscometer RV600弹性纤维组织测试探头)测试受试者皮肤眉心正中间往上2cm额头区域的弹性指数,得到初始弹性指数。受试者早晚清洁皮肤后使用本发明制备的面霜(用量为0.5±0.1g),测试使用面霜4周后测试区域皮肤弹性指数,每次测试测5次取平均值。弹性指数、/>、/>通过以下公式计算:
Uf——皮肤最大拉伸量;Ue——恒定负压加到皮肤后,0.1s时皮肤的的弹性拉伸量;Ur——取消负压0.1s后,皮肤的弹性恢复值;Ua——从取消负压到下一次连续测试皮肤表面再加负压时皮肤的恢复值;测试过程中负压恒定为450mbar。皮肤弹性指数越接近1,即皮肤的拉伸后恢复得越快越多,皮肤的弹性越好,具体实验结果见表6。
表6:面霜对人体的皮肤弹性的影响
从表中测试结果可知,使用4周后,本发明提供的面霜对皮肤的弹性指数提升的程度比对比例多,说明本发明的面霜具有良好的抗皱效果。
上述实施例为本发明较佳的实施方式,但本发明的实施方式并不受上述实施例的限制,其他的任何未背离本发明的精神实质与原理下所作的改变、修饰、替代、组合、简化,均应为等效的置换方式,都包含在本发明的保护范围之内。
Claims (4)
1.一种抗皱紧致面霜,其特征在于,包括如下质量百分比的组分:不饱和酸酰化六肽0.8~3%、植物提取物0.5~2.2%、海藻糖2~3%、鲸蜡硬脂醇2~3%、甘油5~8%、丁二醇2~5%、透明质酸1~4%、水解胶原1~5%、EDTA二钠0.4~0.8%,余量为水;
所述不饱和酸酰化六肽具有如下氨基酸序列结构:
Xc-His-Ala-Leu-Arg-Phe-Trp-NH2,所述Xc选自以下结构之一:
(I)
(II);
(III);
(IV);
所述植物提取物为长心卡帕藻提取物和刺云实果提取物的混合物;
所述不饱和酸酰化六肽的制备方法如下:
S1:Rink Amide AM 树脂经活化、脱保护后,首先加入Fmoc-Trp(Boc)-OH进行反应,得到Fmoc-Trp(Boc)-树脂;脱保护剂为哌啶/DMF溶液(20/80 v/v);
S2:按照不饱和酸酰化六肽-1的氨基酸序列从第二个苯丙氨酸开始到第6个组氨酸逐步固相偶联氨基酸,得到:Fmoc-His(Boc)-Ala-Leu-Arg(Boc)2-Phe-Trp(Boc)-树脂;多肽缩合剂为苯并三氮唑-N,N,N’,N’-四甲基脲六氟磷酸酯(HBTU)和二异丙基乙胺(DIEA);
S3:脱Fmoc保护后加入不饱和酸的酰氯,得到:Xc-His(Boc)-Ala-Leu-Arg(Boc)2-Phe-Trp(Boc)-树脂;所述不饱和酸的酰氯由不饱和酸与草酰氯反应得到;
S4:用含有三氟乙酸的切割液切割,并采用高效液相色谱纯化,得到:Xc-His-Ala-Leu-Arg-Phe-Trp-NH2;
所述不饱和酸的酰氯具体为(2E,4E,6E,10E)-3,7,11,15-四甲基十六烷-2,4,6,10,14-戊酸、法尼酸、香叶基香叶酸、香叶酸中的一种与二氯亚砜反应的产物。
2.根据权利要求1所述的一种抗皱紧致面霜,其特征在于,所述不饱和酸酰化六肽的百分比为1.8%或3%。
3.根据权利要求1所述的一种抗皱紧致面霜,其特征在于,所述水解胶原的投加百分比为3%或5%。
4.根据权利要求1所述的一种抗皱紧致面霜的制备方法,其特征在于,包括以下步骤:
(1)按比例称取水、不饱和酸酰化六肽、植物提取物、甘油、丁二醇、透明质酸、水解胶原,加入水相锅中搅拌混合均匀,升温至55~70℃,得到水相料;
(2)按比例称取植物提取物、海藻糖、鲸蜡硬脂醇、EDTA二钠,依次加入油相锅中,加热至70~85℃搅拌混合均匀,得到油相料;将水相料抽入乳化锅中,搅拌均质下抽入油相料中,在55~70℃下均质并保温60min即可。
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CN112022734A (zh) * | 2020-09-23 | 2020-12-04 | 铂臻(广州)生物科技有限公司 | 一种眼部紧致精华及其制备方法 |
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