Detailed Description
It is particularly important to properly maintain the moisture content of the keratinocyte layer in the skin. For this purpose, a component similar to sebum or a moisturizing agent such as an NMF component, polyhydric alcohol, etc. is added to and used in the cosmetic. For example, glycerin, sorbitol, and the like having 3 or more hydroxyl groups (OH groups) as water-soluble polyols exhibit excellent moisturizing ability but have a strong sticky feeling, causing discomfort in use, and propylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, and the like having 2 hydroxyl groups may also cause adverse effects on the skin. In addition, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate (PCA-Na), sodium lactate (Sodium lactate), urea, and the like, which are other natural moisturizing factors, have a problem of affecting emulsion stability of cosmetics due to their strong electrolysis properties, and amino acids, collagen, elastin, and the like have water replenishing capabilities, but the water replenishing capabilities thereof are limited, and therefore, it is required to develop a natural cosmetic composition that is safe and can improve skin moisturizing ability.
In view of this, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition for skin hydration comprising a hydrolyzed Malt (Malt) extract, a hydrolyzed Gardenia (Gardenia Florida) extract and a hydrolyzed pansy (Viola Tricolor) extract.
Malt (Malt) is an amylase (amyloase) produced as a maltase by germinating barley (Hordeum vulgare lin) of the family gramineae, and is hard, has a bud of 2cm or less, and is yellow. The malt is effective in treating dyspepsia caused by weakness of spleen and stomach, and is especially suitable for dyspepsia caused by flour food. Moreover, malt is also effective in hypogalactia. There are sprouts at the end of one side and sprouts at the end of the other side, the surface is light yellow, and the endosperm is milky white. Hard and brittle. The alternative name of fructus Hordei Germinatus is barley malt, fructus Hordei vulgaris tillering, barley hair, fructus Hordei Nudi Germinatus, and fructus Hordei Germinatus.
Gardenia (Gardenia Florida) refers to fruits of Gardenia trees belonging to the family Rubiaceae as evergreen shrubs or things obtained by drying them. Cape jasmine trees are born in the hot mountains of south-central korea, china (including taiwan), japan, and the like. The fruit is about 3.5cm long, and matures to yellow-red in 9 months, and can be used as medicinal preparation and dye. It is known to be pharmacologically effective in diabetes, hypertension, insomnia, jaundice, dysuria, eyeball congestion, conjunctivitis, hematemesis, metrorrhagia, hematuria, contusion, etc. And has effects in treating joint contusion and removing toxic substance. Decocting fructus Gardeniae with water, or grinding fructus Gardeniae into powder, mixing with water, and attaching to affected part.
Viola Tricolor (Viola Tricolor) is an annual plant belonging to the family Violaceae of the order Pleurotus, and is also called Viola Tricolor. The height is 10-15 cm, and the stem grows straightly or extends to the side and has many branches. The lower blade is egg-shaped, and the upper blade is a slightly slender shovel-shaped blade. The petioles have long and large leaves. The flower stalk grows from the axillary region of the leaf in 3-6 months and a flower grows at the end. The petals are 5 pieces, the diameter of the flower is 3-12 cm, and there are small-wheel seeds, medium-wheel seeds and big-wheel seeds. The flower has three colors of white, yellow and purple, but the gardening varieties have single color or various changes of orange, brown blue, red, blue and the like. The fruit is capsule, and is egg-shaped.
In the cosmetic composition for skin moisturizing of the present invention, the moisturizing agent preferably includes any one or more selected from the group consisting of cellular moisturizing agents and intercellular moisturizing agents. In the cosmetic composition for skin moisturizing comprising the hydrolyzed malt extract, the hydrolyzed gardenia extract and the hydrolyzed pansy extract according to the embodiment of the present invention, it was confirmed that the excellent effects on skin cells and intercellular moisturizing are exhibited by confirming the expression of Aquaporin-3 (Aquaporin-3) and Claudin-1 (Claudin-1). And also exhibits excellent efficacy in moisturizing ability.
Therefore, various formulations having excellent skin moisturizing effects can be provided by applying a cosmetic composition comprising hydrolyzed extracts of Malt (Malt), gardenia (Gardeneia Florida), and pansy (Viola Tricolor) as effective ingredients.
On the one hand, aquaporin (AQP), a membrane protein, is known to be responsible for water transport in cell membranes, selectively regulating the passage of water molecules into and out of the water channels inside and outside cells while interfering with the movement of ions and solutes. It is well known that there are 13 AQPs (AQP-0 to AQP-12) in mammals, of which AQP-1, AQP-2, AQP-4, AQP-5 and AQP-8 mainly transport water selectively, but AQP-3, AQP-7, AQP-9 and AQP-10 not only transport water but also transport glycerol and other small solutes. In particular, it has been reported that AQP-3 is expressed in basal keratinocytes of the epidermis, and activation of AQP-3 in keratinocytes transports water deep into the skin, so that an excellent skin moisturizing effect can be expected.
On the other hand, the ability of moisturizing the skin is closely related to the function of the skin barrier, which may be impaired by aging and external stimuli. The damage of the skin barrier directly leads to the reduction of the moisture content of the skin and the formation of wrinkles, and a great deal of research is being conducted to solve this problem. Among them, tight Junction (TJ) between keratinocytes, which are the main cells constituting a layer, plays an important role.
The tight junctions link adhesion between cells to play a role in preventing water loss in the human body and permeation of harmful substances from the outside. Occludin (Ocgludin), claudin (Claudin), ZO-1 and the like are known as tight connexins, and most of them are present between granular cell layers of the epidermis. Among them, claudin (Claudin) -1, which is a transmembrane protein, is composed of a ring structure, and the space between cells is adjusted by closely filling the space between the cells, thereby effectively blocking the movement path of moisture. Recently, it has been reported that Claudin (Claudin) -1 plays an important role in skin barrier function, which affects skin intercellular hydration.
In the cosmetic composition for skin moisturizing of the present invention, the extraction may be performed by any one extraction method selected from a solvent extraction method, a supercritical extraction method, and an ultrasonic extraction method, as an example. In this case, as an example, any one extraction solvent selected from the group consisting of water, anhydrous or hydrous lower alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, acetone, ethyl acetate, chloroform, butyl acetate, diethyl ether, methylene chloride, hexane, or a mixture thereof may be used in the above solvent extraction method.
In particular, in one embodiment of the present invention, excellent moisturizing effects of each of the hydrolyzed Malt (Malt) extract, the hydrolyzed Gardenia (Gardeneia Florida) extract, the hydrolyzed pansy (Viola Tricolor) extract, and a mixture thereof were confirmed, and it was confirmed that very excellent moisturizing effects can be exhibited when the above extracts were mixed in the same ratio, respectively.
In one aspect, in the present invention, the above-mentioned mixed extract is preferably contained in an amount of 0.0001 to 30.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. More preferably, it is comprised between 0.01 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The skin water-supplementing effect is slight in the case that the content of the mixed extract is less than 0.0001 weight percent, and the effect is not obviously increased along with the increase of the content in the case that the content is more than 30.0 weight percent.
On the other hand, the ingredients contained in the cosmetic composition of the present invention may contain, as active ingredients, ingredients generally used in cosmetic compositions, in addition to the mixed extract of the present invention, and may contain, for example, usual auxiliaries and carriers such as antioxidants, stabilizers, solubilizers, vitamins, pigments, and perfumes.
The cosmetic composition of the present invention may be prepared in any form generally prepared in the art, for example, but not limited thereto, it may be prepared in the form of a solution, a suspension, an emulsion, an ointment, a gel, a cream, a lotion, a powder, a soap, a surfactant-containing cleanser, an oil, a powder foundation, an emulsion foundation, a wax foundation, a pack, a massage cream, a spray, and the like. More specifically, it can be made into softening lotion, nourishing cream, massage cream, essence, eye cream, makeup removing cream, cleansing foam, makeup removing lotion, facial mask, spray, and powder.
In the case where the cosmetic composition of the present invention is in the form of an ointment, cream or gel, animal oil, vegetable oil, wax, paraffin, starch, tragacanth, cellulose derivatives, polyethylene glycol, silicone, bentonite, silica, talc or zinc oxide, and the like, may be used as a carrier ingredient.
In the case where the cosmetic composition of the present invention is in the form of a solution or emulsion, a solvent, a solubilizer, an emulsifier, such as water, ethanol, isopropanol, ethyl carbonate, ethyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, benzyl benzoate, propylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol oil, glycerolipid ester, polyethylene glycol or fatty acid ester of sorbitan is used as a carrier ingredient.
In the case where the formulation of the cosmetic composition of the present invention is a suspension, a liquid diluent such as water, ethanol or propylene glycol; suspending agents such as ethoxylated isostearyl alcohols, polyoxyethylene sorbitol esters, and polyoxyethylene sorbitan esters; microcrystalline cellulose, aluminum metahydroxide, bentonite, agar-agar or tragacanth as carrier component.
In the case where the cosmetic composition of the present invention is in the form of powder or spray, lactose, talc, silicon dioxide, aluminum hydroxide, calcium silicate or polyamide powder may be used as a carrier ingredient, and particularly in the case of spray, a propellant such as chlorofluorocarbon, propane/butane or dimethyl ether may be additionally contained.
When the formulation of the cosmetic composition of the present invention is a surfactant-containing cleanser, fatty alcohol sulfate, fatty alcohol ether sulfate, sulfosuccinic acid monoester, isethionate, imidazoline derivative, methyl taurate, sarcosinate, fatty acid amide ether sulfate, cocamidopropyl betaine, fatty alcohol, fatty acid glyceride, fatty acid diethanolamide, vegetable oil, lanolin derivative, ethoxylated glycerin fatty acid ester, or the like can be used as the carrier component.
In the case where the cosmetic composition of the present invention is a soap, a surfactant-containing cleanser or a surfactant-free cleanser, it may be wiped off, peeled off or washed off with water after being applied to the skin. Specific examples of the soap include liquid soap, powder soap, solid soap, and oil soap, the surfactant-containing cleansing agent includes cleansing foam, cleansing water, cleansing wet tissue, and cleansing facial mask, and the surfactant-free cleansing agent includes cleansing cream, cleansing milk, cleansing water, and cleansing gel, but the present invention is not limited thereto.
Hereinafter, the constitution of the present invention will be described in detail by the following examples and experimental examples. However, the scope of the present invention is not limited to the following examples and experimental examples, and includes modifications of technical ideas equivalent thereto.
Preparation example 1: preparation of hydrolyzed Malt (Malt) extract
100g of Malt (Malt) is pulverized and 1000g of purified water is added, hot water extraction is performed at a temperature of 100 ℃ for 3 hours, and then filtration is performed with 400 mesh filter cloth. Then, the "malt extract" was prepared by concentration under reduced pressure.
Then, after adding 500g of 1M HCl solution to 5g of malt extract, stirring was carried out at 25 ℃ for 3 hours, followed by neutralization with 1M NaOH solution to prepare "hydrolyzed malt extract".
Preparation example 2: preparation of hydrolyzed Gardenia jasminoides Ellis (Gardenia Florida) extract
100g of Gardenia (Gardenia Florida) was pulverized and added with 1000g of purified water, extracted with hot water at a temperature of 100 ℃ for 3 hours, and then filtered through a 400 mesh filter cloth. Then, the "gardenia extract" was prepared by concentration under reduced pressure.
Then, 500g of 1M HCl solution was added to 5g of gardenia extract, followed by stirring at 25 ℃ for 3 hours, and then neutralization with 1M NaOH solution was performed to prepare "hydrolyzed gardenia extract".
Preparation example 3: preparation of hydrolyzed Viola Tricolor extract
100g of pansy (Viola Tricolor) was pulverized and 1000g of purified water was added, hot-water extracted at 100 ℃ for 3 hours, and then filtered through a 400 mesh filter cloth. Then, the "pansy extract" was prepared by concentration under reduced pressure.
Thereafter, 500g of a 1M HCl solution was added to 5g of the pansy extract, and then stirred at 25 ℃ for 3 hours, followed by neutralization with a 1M NaOH solution, to prepare a "hydrolyzed pansy extract".
Example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 6: preparing a mixture of hydrolyzed Malt (Malt) extract, hydrolyzed Gardenia (Gardenia Florida) extract, and hydrolyzed pansy (Viola Tricolor) extract
The mixture of the hydrolyzed Malt (Malt) extract, the hydrolyzed Gardenia (Gardeneia Florida) extract, and the hydrolyzed pansy (Viola Tricolor) extract prepared in the above preparation examples 1 to 3 was mixed in the composition ratio shown in the following Table 1 and dissolved in dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO) at a concentration of 100mg/ml for the following experiments.
TABLE 1
Composition (A)
|
Example 1
|
Comparative example 1
|
|
Comparative example 2
|
Comparative example 3
|
Comparative example 4
|
Comparative example 5
|
Comparative example 6
|
Hydrolyzed malt extract
|
1
|
3
|
|
-
|
-
|
1.5
|
1.5
|
-
|
Hydrolyzed Gardenia jasminoides Ellis extract
|
1
|
-
|
|
3
|
-
|
1.5
|
-
|
1.5
|
Hydrolyzed pansy extract
|
1
|
-
|
|
-
|
3
|
-
|
1.5
|
1.5 |
Experimental example 1: determination of cell viability
In this experiment, the toxicity of the extracts of comparative examples 1 to 3 or the mixtures of comparative examples 4 to 6 and example 1 on cells was measured. For this purpose, the cell viability was determined by MTT (3- (4,5-dimethyl-2-thiazole) -2-5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide, 3- (4,5-dimethylthiazolid-2-yl) -2-5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide) reagent.
Specifically, human keratinocytes (HaCaT, keratincyte) were cultured at 2 × 10 4 Cell/well (cells/well) concentrations were dispensed into 96-well plates and the% CO was determined at 37 ℃ and 5% 2 Under the conditions of (1) for 24 hours. The medium was removed, and the extracts of comparative examples 1 to 3 or the mixtures of comparative examples 4 to 6 and example 1 described above were serially diluted and cultured at different concentrations (1. Mu.g/ml, 3. Mu.g/ml, 10. Mu.g/ml, 30. Mu.g/ml and 100. Mu.g/ml) for 24 hours.
Then, 20. Mu.l of MTT reagent dissolved at 5mg/ml was added thereto, and the content of CO was 5% at 37 ℃ 2 For 2 hours. After the medium was completely removed, 100. Mu.l of DMSO was added to formazan (formazan) produced and completely dissolved, and then the absorbance was measured at 540 nm.
The experimental results showed that the mixture of example 1 and the extracts of comparative examples 1 to 3 or the mixtures of comparative examples 4 to 6 also showed no cytotoxicity at a concentration of 100. Mu.g/ml (FIG. 1). FIG. 1 shows the results of measuring the toxicity of the extracts of comparative examples 1 to 3 or the mixtures of comparative examples 4 to 6 and example 1 to cells.
Experimental example 2: confirmation of cellular hydration effects by confirmation of Aquaporin (Aquaporin) -3 expression
In order to evaluate the moisturizing effect on the cellular level, the effect of the extracts of comparative examples 1 to 3 or the mixtures of comparative examples 4 to 6 and example 1 on AQP-3 of the channels involved in intracellular moisture uptake was confirmed. Dexamethasone (Dexamethasone) was used as a positive control.
And, when HaCaT cells were dispensed into 6-well plates and filled to 80% in the cells, the extracts of comparative examples 1 to 3 or the mixtures of comparative examples 4 to 6 and example 1 were treated in a medium at a concentration of 100 μ g/ml. Then, the cells were cultured for 24 hours and collected, and the proteins were separated using 1 × cell lysis buffer (cell lysis buffer).
Then, the protein was quantified by BCA quantification (assay) and a certain amount of the protein was electrophoresed in 10% SDS-PAGE gel. Then, it was transferred (transfer) onto a PVDF membrane and blocked (blocking) by 5% skim milk (skim milk) for 1 hour. The primary antibody (AQP-3, st. Cruis, USA) was reacted overnight (over night) at 4 ℃ and then the HRP-conjugated secondary antibody was reacted for 2 hours at room temperature. Then, the bands were confirmed by a Chemi Doc instrument using TBS/T washing and ECL reaction kit. Quantification of each band was quantified based on the expression of β -actin (β -actin), thereby calculating the expression amount of AQP-3.
The experimental results showed that dexamethasone as a positive control group increased the expression of AQP-3 by about 73.0%, and the mixture of example 1 increased the expression of AQP-3 by about 113.2% at a concentration of 100. Mu.g/ml. The extract of comparative example 2 increased AQP-3 expression by 62.1%, the extract of comparative example 3 by 78.4%, the mixture of comparative example 4 by 27.2%, the mixture of comparative example 5 by 61.5% and the mixture of comparative example 6 by 59.8%. Furthermore, the expression of AQP-3 was not significantly increased in the extract of comparative example 1. From the above results, it was confirmed that the mixture of example 1 was most effective for cellular hydration (fig. 2). FIG. 2 shows the results of confirming the effect of moisturizing cells by regulating the expression of Aquaporin (Aquaporin) -3 by the extracts of comparative examples 1 to 3 or the mixtures of comparative examples 4 to 6 and example 1.
Experimental example 3: confirmation of intercellular hydration effects by confirming the expression of Claudin-1
The intercellular moisturizing effect of the extracts of comparative examples 1 to 3 or the mixtures of comparative examples 4 to 6 and example 1 on Claudin (Claudin) -1 associated with the loss of water inside the skin was measured by the method described below.
When HaCaT cells were dispensed into 6-well plates and filled to 80% in cells, the extracts of comparative examples 1 to 3 or the mixtures of comparative examples 4 to 6 and example 1 were treated in a medium at a concentration of 100 μ g/ml. Then, the cells were cultured for 24 hours and collected, and then the protein was separated using 1 × cell lysis buffer (cell lysis buffer). Then, the protein was quantified by BCA quantification (assay) and a certain amount of the protein was electrophoresed in 10% SDS-PAGE gel. Then, it was transferred (transfer) onto a PVDF membrane and blocked (blocking) by 5% skim milk (skim milk) for 1 hour. The primary antibody (Claudin-1, cell signalling, USA) was reacted at 4 ℃ overnight (over night) and then the HRP-conjugated secondary antibody was reacted at room temperature for 2 hours. Then, the bands were confirmed by a Chemi Doc instrument using TBS/T wash and ECL reaction kit. Quantification of each band was performed based on the expression of β -actin (β -actin), and the expression level of Claudin-1 was calculated.
The results of the experiment show that the mixture of example 1 increased the expression of Claudin (Claudin) -1 by about 112.5% at a concentration of 100. Mu.g/ml. The extract of comparative example 1 increased the expression of Claudin (Claudin) -1 by 62.2%, the extract of comparative example 2 by 13.4%, the mixture of comparative example 4 by 61.3%, the mixture of comparative example 5 by 67.8% and the mixture of comparative example 6 by 22.9%. In the case of the extract of comparative example 3, the expression of Claudin (Claudin) -1 did not increase significantly. Thus, it was confirmed that the mixture of example 1 was most effective in moisturizing skin intercellular (fig. 3). FIG. 3 shows the result of confirming the intercellular moisturizing effect by adjusting the expression of Croudin (Claudin) -1 by the extracts of comparative examples 1 to 3 or the mixtures of comparative examples 4 to 6 and example 1.
Experimental example 4: confirming moisturizing (Water Holding) capabilities
In this experiment, the moisture-retaining capacity (Water holding capacity) of the extracts of comparative examples 1 to 3 or the mixtures of comparative examples 4 to 6 and example 1 was measured. As a comparative sample, a solution of Hyaluronic acid (Hyaluronic acid: HA) added to water was used.
For this purpose, experiments were carried out at constant temperature, and after placing 20ml each of the extracts of comparative examples 1 to 3 or the mixtures of comparative examples 4 to 6 and example 1 in a petri dish, the weights were measured by a precision scale at different times (after 0 hour, 2 hours, 4 hours, 6 hours, 12 hours and 24 hours) and recorded in table 2 below.
TABLE 2
The experimental results showed that the moisture reduction amounts of example 1 (21.9%), comparative example 6 (27.0%), comparative example 4 (28.8%), comparative example 5 (30.2%), comparative example 2 (30.6%), comparative example 1 (34.3%), comparative example 3 (34.8%), and water (HA) (39.0%) were successively smaller.
That is, it was confirmed that the mixture of example 1 has superior binding force with water and the amount of evaporated water is minimized, compared to the extracts of comparative examples 1 to 3 or the mixtures of comparative examples 4 to 6 (fig. 4). Fig. 4 is a graph showing the results of the moisture reduction rate of the extracts of comparative examples 1 to 3 or the mixtures of comparative examples 4 to 6 and example 1.
Dosage form example 1: preparation of cosmetic composition
As the mixture of the above example 1, cosmetic compositions respectively containing 0.1 weight percent of hydrolyzed Malt (Malt) extract, hydrolyzed Gardenia jasminoides (Gardenia Florida) extract, and hydrolyzed pansy (Viola Tricolor) extract were prepared in the composition shown in the following table 3 and referred to as formulation example 1, and comparative formulation example 1 was prepared as a control.
TABLE 3
Experimental example 5: determination of skin moisture content
In this experiment, the skin moisture content of the above formulation example 1 was confirmed. For this purpose, the skin hydration capacity was evaluated by measuring the skin moisture content. Measurement of Water-replenishing force by skin moisture measuring Instrument the moisture content of the skin surface (e.g., stratum corneum) is measured by a capacitance measuring method, and there is an advantage that the moisture content of the skin surface is measured without being affected by a sample applied to a part of the skin, and a constant measurement level is maintained at a depth of 30 to 40 μm below the contact part of the probe sensor. The measurement units are displayed in arbitrary units (a.u.) specified by the apparatus.
The above formulation example 1 and comparative formulation example 1 were applied after measuring the initial value before application of the sample by a skin moisture meter (Corneometer) under constant temperature and humidity conditions in which the room temperature was 20 to 25 ℃ and the relative humidity was 40 to 55%. Then, the skin moisture content was measured by a skin moisture meter at various times (after 10 minutes, 30 minutes, 60 minutes, 90 minutes, and 180 minutes), and the results thereof are shown in table 4 below.
TABLE 4
(Unit: A.U.)
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0 minute
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10 minutes
|
30 minutes
|
60 minutes
|
90 minutes
|
180 minutes
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Dosage form example 1
|
35.5
|
46.5
|
45.8
|
43.5
|
40.4
|
38.1
|
Comparative formulation example 1
|
35.9
|
40.7
|
38.4
|
36.4
|
35.4
|
36.1 |
As a result of the experiment, it was confirmed that the moisture content of the skin was significantly increased in the formulation example 1 as compared with the comparative formulation example 1 (fig. 5). FIG. 5 is a result of measuring the moisture content of the skin when dosage form example 1 was applied and comparative dosage form example 1.
Experimental example 6: measurement of the amount of moisture lost through the skin
In this experiment, the amount of percutaneous water loss (TEWL) was confirmed in the above formulation example 1. The transdermal moisture loss amount means that moisture inside the skin evaporates when the barrier function of the skin is impaired. Evaluation of amount of Water evaporated As g/h/m evaporated per hour unit area 2 And (4) showing.
After manually removing the cutin of the skin by a method of binding the skin on the inner side of the lower arm of the arm using an adhesive tape, the formulation example 1 and the comparative formulation example 1 were applied. Then, the amount of moisture evaporated from the skin was measured by a percutaneous moisture loss measuring instrument (Tewameter TM 210, courage and Khazaka, germany) at various times (after 10 minutes, 30 minutes, 60 minutes, 90 minutes and 180 minutes) and the results are shown in Table 5 below.
TABLE 5
(unit: g/m) 2 /h)
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0 minute
|
10 minutes
|
30 minutes
|
60 minutes
|
90 minutes
|
180 minutes
|
Dosage form example 1
|
10.4
|
20.7
|
12.4
|
11.1
|
10.8
|
10.1
|
Comparative formulation example 1
|
10.9
|
21.4
|
18.4
|
16.5
|
13.4
|
12.1 |
As a result of the experiment, it was confirmed that the amount of percutaneous moisture loss was very low in dosage form example 1 as compared with comparative dosage form example 1 (fig. 6). FIG. 6 is a result of measuring the amount of percutaneous moisture loss when dosage form example 1 was used and comparative dosage form example 1.