CN115337234A - 一种抗光老的深度修护100%纯生物来源的口红及其制备工艺 - Google Patents
一种抗光老的深度修护100%纯生物来源的口红及其制备工艺 Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
本发明属于口红的技术领域,具体涉及一种抗光老的深度修护100%纯生物来源的口红及其制备工艺。所述口红的组成原料如下:石榴甾醇类提取物、白池花籽油、毛瑞榈果油、水黄皮籽提取物、蜂蜡、小烛树蜡、牛油果树果脂油、大裂叶五桤木籽油、虾青素、印度楝花提取物、印度楝籽提取物、红瓜果提取物、糖鞘脂类、磷脂、胆甾醇、突厥蔷薇花提取物、厚朴树皮提取物、西洋接骨木果油、透明质酸钠以及生育酚;所述口红来源于纯生物,既安全又具有功效,所得口红1)比润唇膏更滋润,与石油口红相当;2)颜色饱和度高、妆容持久度强;3)具有抗蓝光、抗紫外线以及强大修护力的功效。
Description
技术领域
本发明属于口红的技术领域,具体涉及一种抗光老的深度修护100%纯生物来源的口红及其制备工艺。
背景技术
口红是一种由蜡、油脂、色素三种元素形成的彩妆产品,为现代女性不可或缺的日用品。而目前市场上超过99%的口红商品,无论在蜡、油脂还是色素的运用选择上,皆采用是有衍生物或人工合成的原料配制而成,如采用石蜡(石油来源)、地蜡(石油来源)、微晶蜡(石油来源)、辛基十二醇(合成油脂)、聚乙烯(石油微塑料)、丁羟甲苯(人工抗氧化剂)以及合成色素(煤焦油),这些原料非但对人类健康毫无益处,反而在潜移默化中,带来健康风险和危机。
有研究表明,美国环境工作组EWG对711中口红产品进行检查,发现其中发现其中28%的成分与丁羟甲苯、尼龙6(锦纶-6)、氧化铁、聚乙烯和二氧化钛等化学物质的致癌风险有关。它们存在的健康影响,可能包括恶心、痉挛、呕吐、皮疹、关节和骨骼疼痛、口腔溃疡、癌症、遗传损伤、免疫功能障碍、大脑和学习障碍以及冲动和暴力行为。
口红中运用的油脂与蜡,普遍来源于矿油、矿脂、液体石蜡、硅油、微晶蜡以及地蜡等等,多为石油中分馏获得的碳氢化合物的复杂组合。矿物油和蜡经常被发现存在矿物油饱和烃,它具有遗传毒性与致癌性。2011年,医学杂志《Journal of Women’s Health》发布一篇名为“Evidence for cosmeticcs as a source of mineral oil contamination inwomen”的研究,结果表明:人体脂肪组织中的矿物油饱和烃浓度,随着年龄增长、时间推移而累计,不断增加,而化妆品可能是相关的污染源。
口红中运用的人工色素,多为煤焦油来源。1915年9月,日本癌病理学家山城胜三郎(Katsusaburo Yamagiwa),在对癌症实验研究中,反复使用“煤焦油”涂抹兔子的耳朵,使之产生了癌变,证实了长期涂抹“煤焦油”有皮肤癌风险。1977年,日本发布一则关于《有色化妆品皮炎和煤焦油染料》的研究,结果表明,煤焦油来源的染料,与接触性皮炎的病因密切相关。煤焦油的合成色素含有重金属盐,会在皮肤中沉积毒素,导致皮肤敏感和刺激。
此外,口红普遍采用的其它原料中,2020年,一项关于丁羟甲苯(BHT)导致异常焦虑的研究表明,BHT可以影响多巴胺系统的表达;2021年最新的动物研究表明,口服含有0.025%和0.05%丁羟甲苯(BHT)的天然向日葵油,对大鼠的运动、神经行为活动,以及大脑、心脏和肺的组织病理学变化具有毒性。
还有蓖麻油的使用,由于其优异特性,大约80%以上的国内外宣称“天然”的口红中,蓖麻油为不可割舍的原料之一。在一篇名为《青少年对唇膏中的蓖麻籽油(蓖麻油)的过敏性接触性唇炎》研究中,因为蓖麻油中富含90%蓖麻油酸,它被确认为蓖麻油致敏的最敏感物质,新加坡一家医院对202名唇炎患者进行跟踪研究,72名被诊断为过敏性接触性唇炎,其中29名患者的蓖麻油酸呈阳,表明了蓖麻油可导致过敏性接触性皮炎的概率较大,因此,现有的所谓天然口红中所采用的蓖麻油,存在致敏风险,并不一定安全。
因此,研发一种兼顾安全又功效的100%天然原料配制的纯植物口红尤为关键,对于广大女性群体的健康使用具有重要意义。
发明内容
针对上述问题,本发明的目的在于提供一种抗光老的深度修护100%纯生物来源的口红及其制备工艺。
本发明的技术内容如下:
本发明提供一种抗光老的深度修护100%纯生物来源的口红,所述口红的组成原料如下:石榴甾醇类提取物、白池花籽油、毛瑞榈果油、水黄皮籽提取物(卡兰贾油)、蜂蜡、小烛树蜡、牛油果树果脂油、大裂叶五桤木籽油、虾青素、印度楝花提取物、印度楝籽提取物、红瓜果提取物、糖鞘脂类、磷脂、胆甾醇、突厥蔷薇花提取物、厚朴树皮提取物、西洋接骨木果油、透明质酸钠以及生育酚(维生素E);
所述白池花籽油中,含有98%以上具有抗氧化作用的长链脂肪酸,其具有优异的稳定性,能够增强口红的抗氧化能力,以及作为优良的润肤剂;
所述毛瑞榈果油,也称布里奇果油,其含有高浓度的天然抗氧剂β-胡萝卜素与生育酚、维生素C2协同,可有效防护光老化和皮肤失水,拥有高超的抵抗强紫外线、抗氧化能力,能够隔绝蓝光;其富含不饱和脂肪酸能够强固皮肤屏障,促进细胞增殖和新生,能够促进弹性纤维、胶原纤维产生和积累;
所述水黄皮籽提取物(卡兰贾油)是一种具有光防护的活性物质,具有天然防晒的功能呢,能够增强产品的光保护功效,扩大紫外光谱,尤其是对UVB的防护;
所述大裂叶五桤木籽油具有美白、抗紫外以及抗衰老活性,能够使得肤色均匀、增加肌肤透明质酸含量,还能够有效增加胶原蛋白密度;同时帮助唇部肌肤深层滋润;
所述牛油果树果脂油中含有生物三萜酯类,具有强大的皮肤修复、舒缓和保护性能,能够抵御UVA+UVB导致的炎症,从而起到抗光老功效;
所述厚朴树皮提取物中含有98%高纯度活性多酚-厚朴多酚和和厚朴酚,具有特殊的、持久的肌肉松弛作用及强的抗菌作用,用于本发明的口红产品中起到舒缓唇纹,抑菌抗炎,以及美白,抗氧化功能,能够实现产品配方稳定。
按重量份数计,所述石榴甾醇类提取物占15~40份、白池花籽油占15~30份、毛瑞榈果油占10~15份、水黄皮籽提取物占10~15份、蜂蜡占10~20份、小烛树蜡占10~15份、牛油果树果脂油占10~20份、大裂叶五桤木籽油占10~15份、虾青素占3~6份、印度楝花提取物占0.1~1份、印度楝籽提取物占0.1~1份、红瓜果提取物占0.1~1份、糖鞘脂类占0.5~1份、磷脂占0.5~1份、胆甾醇占0.5~1份、突厥蔷薇花提取物占0.1~1份、厚朴树皮提取物占0.1~1份、西洋接骨木果油占2~5份、透明质酸钠占0.5~1份以及生育酚占0.1~1份。
所述石榴甾醇类提取物的制备如下:
选取石榴果皮以及石榴籽,置于真空下烘干至水分为5~10%,烘干温度为80~85℃,研磨过筛至80~100目,封装之后,用于间歇式超临界萃取仪萃取,之后分离,得到石榴甾醇类提取物;
所述萃取的温度为40~50℃,压力为35~40MPa;
所述分离的温度为33~38℃,压力为6~10MPa;
所述石榴甾醇类提取物可以替代合成油,具有较强的保湿和增强屏障功能的功效,促进皮肤代谢。
所述西洋接骨木果油的提取工艺为:取西洋接骨木的果实,清洗干净捣碎、以1:(8~10)mg/mL的料液比与木糖醇、绿原酸的混合物混合,进行超声微波处理,冷却至室温之后进行间歇式超临界萃取仪萃取,之后分离,即得到西洋接骨木果油;
所述木糖醇和绿原酸的混合质量比为(3~4):(4~7);
所述超声微波处理的条件为微波的频率为600~800MHz,超声的频率为800~1000MHz,反应温度为215~225℃;
所述减压浓缩的压力为0.05~0.08MPa,温度为70~80℃;
所述冷冻干燥的温度条件为-10~0℃;
所述萃取的温度为30~40℃,压力为25~30MPa;
所述分离的温度为30~35℃,压力为10~15MPa。
所述西洋接骨木果提取物的成分包括黄酮类、木脂素以及环烯醚萜类等的活性成分,具有较强的抗氧化和抗炎抑菌功效,对于自由基、DPPH具有很好地清除作用。
本发明还提供了一种抗光老的深度修护100%纯生物来源的口红的制备工艺:
1)将白池花籽油、毛瑞榈果油、水黄皮籽提取物、糖鞘脂类、磷脂、胆甾醇混合,升温至70~80℃进行搅拌加热,得到均质混合物A;
2)将牛油果树果脂油、大裂叶五桤木籽油、印度楝花提取物、印度楝籽提取物、红瓜果提取物、突厥蔷薇花提取物、厚朴树皮提取物混合,升温至80~90℃进行搅拌加热,再降温至70~80℃,缓慢添加透明质酸钠粉末,搅拌均匀,得到均质混合物B;
4)在70~80℃的温度下,将均质混合物A、B混合,缓慢加入蜂蜡、小烛树蜡和生育酚,搅拌均匀,之后降温至60~70℃,缓慢加入石榴甾醇类提取物、西洋接骨木果油和虾青素,搅拌均匀之后倒模成形,即得到口红产品。
本发明的有益效果如下:
本发明的抗光老的深度修护100%纯生物来源的口红及其制备工艺,所述纯生物是指本发明的口红采用由植物来源、动物来源、生物发酵来源的原料配制而成,不添加人工合成或石油衍生成分,也没有采用危险的植物原料(如蓖麻油/紫草油),无毒无害,既安全又具有抗光老、深度修护的功效。通过本发明的纯生物来源的原料配方以及制备工艺,使得所得口红1)比润唇膏更滋润,与石油口红相当;2)颜色饱和度高、妆容持久度强;3)具有抗蓝光、抗紫外线以及强大修护力的功效。
附图说明
图1为本发明所制备的口红产品对被紫外照射抑制的SOD和GPx活力的增强能力;
图2为本发明所制备的口红产品对被紫外照射MDA含量的降低能力;
图3为本发明所采用的毛瑞榈果油的抗蓝光效果图;
图4为口红产品的抗炎舒缓功效典型图。
具体实施方式
以下通过具体的实施案例以及附图说明对本发明作进一步详细的描述,应理解这些实施例仅用于说明本发明而不用于限制本发明的保护范围,在阅读了本发明之后,本领域技术人员对本发明的各种等价形式的修改均落于本申请所附权利要求所限定。
若无特殊说明,本发明的所有原料和试剂均为常规市场的原料、试剂。
实施例1
一种抗光老的深度修护100%纯生物来源的口红的制备
1)将20份白池花籽油、10份毛瑞榈果油、13份水黄皮籽提取物、0.5份糖鞘脂类、1份磷脂、0.6份胆甾醇混合,升温至75℃进行搅拌加热,得到均质混合物A;
2)将20份牛油果树果脂油、12份大裂叶五桤木籽油、0.8份印度楝花提取物、0.5份印度楝籽提取物、1份红瓜果提取物、0.1份突厥蔷薇花提取物、0.5份厚朴树皮提取物混合,升温至85℃进行搅拌加热,再降温至75℃,缓慢添加0.8份透明质酸钠粉末,搅拌均匀,得到均质混合物B;
4)在75℃的温度下,将均质混合物A、B混合,缓慢加入20份蜂蜡、13份小烛树蜡和0.3份生育酚,搅拌均匀,之后降温至65℃,缓慢加入40份石榴甾醇类提取物、2份西洋接骨木果油和3份虾青素,搅拌均匀之后倒模成形,即得到口红产品;
所述石榴甾醇类提取物的制备如下:选取石榴果皮以及石榴籽1000g,置于真空下烘干至水分为5~8%,烘干温度为83℃,研磨过筛至90目,封装之后,用于间歇式超临界萃取仪萃取,萃取的温度为45℃,压力为37MPa,之后分离,温度为35℃,压力为8MPa,得到石榴甾醇类提取物23g;
所述西洋接骨木果油的提取工艺为:取西洋接骨木的果实1000g,清洗干净捣碎、以1:9mg/mL的料液比与木糖醇、绿原酸的混合物混合,进行超声微波处理,微波的频率为700MHz,超声的频率为900MHz,反应温度为220℃,冷却至室温之后进行间歇式超临界萃取仪萃取,温度为35℃,压力为27MPa,之后分离,温度为33℃,压力为13MPa,即得到西洋接骨木果油55.3g;
所述木糖醇和绿原酸的混合质量比为3:5。
实施例2
一种抗光老的深度修护100%纯生物来源的口红的制备
1)将15份白池花籽油、20份毛瑞榈果油、10份水黄皮籽提取物、0.6份糖鞘脂类、0.8份磷脂、0.5份胆甾醇混合,升温至70℃进行搅拌加热,得到均质混合物A;
2)将10份牛油果树果脂油、10份大裂叶五桤木籽油、1份印度楝花提取物、0.3份印度楝籽提取物、0.5份红瓜果提取物、0.5份突厥蔷薇花提取物、0.7份厚朴树皮提取物混合,升温至80℃进行搅拌加热,再降温至70℃,缓慢添加0.6份透明质酸钠粉末,搅拌均匀,得到均质混合物B;
4)在70℃的温度下,将均质混合物A、B混合,缓慢加入12份蜂蜡、15份小烛树蜡和0.1份生育酚,搅拌均匀,之后降温至60℃,缓慢加入15份石榴甾醇类提取物、5份西洋接骨木果油和5份虾青素,搅拌均匀之后倒模成形,即得到口红产品;
所述石榴甾醇类提取物的制备如下:选取石榴果皮以及石榴籽1000g,置于真空下烘干至水分为5~8%,烘干温度为80℃,研磨过筛至80目,封装之后,用于间歇式超临界萃取仪萃取,萃取的温度为40℃,压力为35MPa,之后分离,温度为33℃,压力为6MPa,得到石榴甾醇类提取物24.5g;
所述西洋接骨木果油的提取工艺为:取西洋接骨木的果实1000g,清洗干净捣碎、以1:8mg/mL的料液比与木糖醇、绿原酸的混合物混合,进行超声微波处理,微波的频率为600MHz,超声的频率为800MHz,反应温度为215℃,冷却至室温之后进行间歇式超临界萃取仪萃取,温度为30℃,压力为25MPa,之后分离,温度为30℃,压力为10MPa,即得到西洋接骨木果油54g;
所述木糖醇和绿原酸的混合质量比为3:4。
实施例3
一种抗光老的深度修护100%纯生物来源的口红的制备
1)将25份白池花籽油、15份毛瑞榈果油、15份水黄皮籽提取物、0.6份糖鞘脂类、0.5份磷脂、1份胆甾醇混合,升温至80℃进行搅拌加热,得到均质混合物A;
2)将15份牛油果树果脂油、15份大裂叶五桤木籽油、0.2份印度楝花提取物、0.1份印度楝籽提取物、0.6份红瓜果提取物、0.6份突厥蔷薇花提取物、1份厚朴树皮提取物混合,升温至90℃进行搅拌加热,再降温至80℃,缓慢添加0.5份透明质酸钠粉末,搅拌均匀,得到均质混合物B;
4)在80℃的温度下,将均质混合物A、B混合,缓慢加入17份蜂蜡、14份小烛树蜡和1份生育酚,搅拌均匀,之后降温至70℃,缓慢加入20份石榴甾醇类提取物、3份西洋接骨木果油和6份虾青素,搅拌均匀之后倒模成形,即得到口红产品;
所述石榴甾醇类提取物的制备如下:选取石榴果皮以及石榴籽1000g,置于真空下烘干至水分为8~10%,烘干温度为85℃,研磨过筛至100目,封装之后,用于间歇式超临界萃取仪萃取,萃取的温度为50℃,压力为40MPa,之后分离,温度为38℃,压力为10MPa,得到石榴甾醇类提取物26.7g;
所述西洋接骨木果油的提取工艺为:取西洋接骨木的果实1000g,清洗干净捣碎、以1:10mg/mL的料液比与木糖醇、绿原酸的混合物混合,进行超声微波处理,微波的频率为800MHz,超声的频率为1000MHz,反应温度为225℃,冷却至室温之后进行间歇式超临界萃取仪萃取,温度为40℃,压力为30MPa,之后分离,温度为35℃,压力为15MPa,即得到西洋接骨木果油53.6g;
所述木糖醇和绿原酸的混合质量比为4:7。
实施例4
一种抗光老的深度修护100%纯生物来源的口红的制备
1)将30份白池花籽油、16份毛瑞榈果油、14份水黄皮籽提取物、1份糖鞘脂类、0.7份磷脂、0.8份胆甾醇混合,升温至77℃进行搅拌加热,得到均质混合物A;
2)将13份牛油果树果脂油、14份大裂叶五桤木籽油、0.4份印度楝花提取物、1份印度楝籽提取物、0.1份红瓜果提取物、1份突厥蔷薇花提取物、0.1份厚朴树皮提取物混合,升温至86℃进行搅拌加热,再降温至74℃,缓慢添加1份透明质酸钠粉末,搅拌均匀,得到均质混合物B;
4)在74℃的温度下,将均质混合物A、B混合,缓慢加入10份蜂蜡、10份小烛树蜡和0.8份生育酚,搅拌均匀,之后降温至66℃,缓慢加入30份石榴甾醇类提取物、3份西洋接骨木果油和3份虾青素,搅拌均匀之后倒模成形,即得到口红产品;
所述石榴甾醇类提取物的制备如下:选取石榴果皮以及石榴籽1000g,置于真空下烘干至水分为5~10%,烘干温度为84℃,研磨过筛至90目,封装之后,用于间歇式超临界萃取仪萃取,萃取的温度为47℃,压力为38MPa,之后分离,温度为34℃,压力为7MPa,得到石榴甾醇类提取物22.5g;
所述西洋接骨木果油的提取工艺为:取西洋接骨木的果实1000g,清洗干净捣碎、以1:9mg/mL的料液比与木糖醇、绿原酸的混合物混合,进行超声微波处理,微波的频率为750MHz,超声的频率为850MHz,反应温度为220℃,冷却至室温之后进行间歇式超临界萃取仪萃取,温度为34℃,压力为27MPa,之后分离,温度为33℃,压力为13MPa,即得到西洋接骨木果油56g;
所述木糖醇和绿原酸的混合质量比为3:6。
本发明所采用的布里奇果油与其它成分的抗蓝光能力对比:
表1成分的抗蓝光对比
图1为蓝光照射测试,结合表1结果可见,本发明所采用的布里奇果油具有较为优异的抗蓝光能力,将其应用于制备本发明的口红能有效实现抗蓝光。
对比例1
相比实施例1,不添加石榴甾醇类提取物,其它条件不变。
对比例2
相比实施例1,不添加西洋接骨木果油,其它条件不变。
对比例3
相比实施例1,不添加卡兰贾油,其它条件不变。
对比例4
相比实施例1,采用市场购买的石榴(PUNICA GRANATUM)甾醇类,其它条件不变。
对比例5
相比实施例1,采用市场购买的西洋接骨木(SAMBUCUS NIGRA)果提取物,其它条件不变。
对比例6
相比实施例1,不采用毛瑞榈果油(布里奇果油),其它条件不变。
将本发明的口红进行如下性能测试:
1.安全性测试
选取50位女性,年龄不限,于唇部涂抹本发明实施例所制备的口红,于涂抹之后的3h、6h、12h观察唇部情况,50位女性均未出现唇部不适现象,说明本发明的口红产品是安全的,且适用于广大女性。
2.口红的感官测试
表2口红性能
其中,色泽评分标准:1=色泽度低;2=色泽度较低;3=色泽度一般;4=色泽度高;滋润度评分标准:1=滋润度低;2=滋润度较低;3=滋润度一般;4=滋润度高;持久度评分标准:1=持久度低;2=持久度较低;3=持久度一般;4=持久度高。
由表1结果可见,本发明实施例所制备的口红在色泽度、滋润度和持久度方面效果均较优异。
2.口红的抗氧化测试(DPPH自由基清除实验)
受检样品处理:将口红用无水乙醇稀释至100mg/mL,作为受检样品母液;
检测方法:在96孔板中加入150μL 0.0394mg/mL的DPPH溶液与150μL不同浓度的受检样品混匀,37℃孵育30min后测OD519nm,得出样品对DPPH自由基的清除率。
检测结果如2所示,其为不同浓度受检样品对DPPH自由基的清除率的结果,结果显示12.5~100mg/mL的口红样品对DPPH自由基有明显的清除作用,清除率为14.3~84.5%,表明具有优异的抗氧化能力。
3.口红的抗紫外和抗蓝光测试
3.1抗紫外测试(测试方法参考自论文“甲基莲心碱对UV致人皮肤成纤维细胞氧化损伤的影响”,曹瑾,杨壮群,Abidullah Khan,等)
1)组别设置
将10g实施例1的口红样品溶于2mL DMSO之后加入198mL无水乙醇稀释,制成浓度5%的样品,再稀释5倍得到0.5%、1%的口红样品溶液,备用,对比例2、3和对比例6的口红样品制备同上,浓度为1%。
空白对照组:无口红样品以及紫外线照射;
模型组:仅紫外线照射;
实验组:口红样品+紫外线照射;
对照组:对比例2、3和对比例6的口红样品+紫外线照射。
2)紫外线照射
取唇部皮肤成纤维细胞接种至培养皿中,生长至90%融合时弃去培养皿内的培养液,用PBS清洗2遍后以少量不含胎牛血清的DMEM覆盖细胞,模型组及实验组放置在紫外灯箱内,紫外灯箱由2个UVA灯(辐射剂量为20J/cm2)和1个UVB灯(辐射剂量为40mJ/cm2)组成,辐射距离为20cm,空白对照组放置在无紫外灯箱的相同环境下。
3)细胞内抗氧化酶活力测定
细胞内SOD和GPx活力分别通过试剂盒测定,唇部皮肤成纤维细胞接受紫外灯照射后立即换以不同浓度口红样品的培养基鸡血培养24h,用0.25%胰酶消化制成细胞悬液后1000r/min离心10min,弃去上清液后用1mLPBD重悬,1000r/min离心10min收集细胞,用超声破碎仪破碎细胞制成细胞匀浆,按说明书严格操作,用酶标仪分别在450nm和412处测定吸光值,计算DOS和GPx活力水平。
结果如图1所示,经紫外线照射后的唇部皮肤成纤维细胞的SOD和GPx活力被抑制,而采用本发明的0.5%、1%浓度的口红能够提高被辐射后细胞内被抑制的SOD和GPx活力,对比例2、3和6组的对被抑制的SOD和GPx活力的增强能力较弱。
4)细胞内MDA含量测定
细胞内MDA含量通过试剂盒测定。细胞接受UV照射后立即换以含不同浓度口红样品的培养基继续培养24h,用0.25%胰酶消化制成细胞悬液后1000r/min离心10min,弃去上清液后用1mLPBS重悬,1000r/min离心10min收集细胞,用0.4mL生理盐水重悬细胞制成细胞悬液。按说明书严格操作,用酶标仪在512nm处测定各管吸光值,计算细胞内MDA含量。
结果如图2所示,经紫外线照射后,唇部皮肤成纤维细胞的MDA含量增加,而本发明的0.5%、1%浓度的口红能够降低被辐射后的细胞内的MDA含量,对比例2、3和6组的对MDA含量的降低能力较弱。
表明本发明的口红产品具有一定的抗紫外性能,以及所采用的西洋接骨木果油、卡兰贾油、毛瑞榈果油(布里奇果油)成分对本发明口红产品的抗紫外能力具有促进作用。
3.2抗蓝光测试
将口红产品涂抹于纸面,采用蓝光灯进行照射测试,同图3,结果如表3所示。
表3抗UV和抗蓝光能力
由表3结果可见,本发明实施例所制备的口红具有一定程度的抗蓝光能力。相比实施例,对比例1中没有添加石榴甾醇类提取物,由于石榴甾醇类的主要作用为保湿和屏障修复,缺少石榴甾醇类提取物对口红的抗紫外能力和抗蓝光能力的影响不大;对比例2中没有添加西洋接骨木果油,使得口红产品的抗蓝光能力大大下降;对比例3中没有添加卡兰贾油,由于其具有一定的抗氧化能力、抗强紫外线以及能够隔绝蓝光,因此缺少卡兰贾油,使得口红产品的隔绝蓝光的能力也大大降低;对比例4和对比例5采用市场购买的成分,所制得的口红的抗紫外和抗蓝光的能力均有所降低,以及缺少布里奇果油的对比例6,抗蓝光能力显著降低。
因此,表明本发明的口红产品中,所制备的石榴甾醇类提取物、西洋接骨木果油相比市场购买的能够带来更好抗蓝光能力,所采用的卡兰贾油和布里奇果油对于使得本发明所制备的口红产品的抗蓝光能力具有促进作用。
4.口红的修护功效测试
采用转基因中性粒细胞绿色荧光品系斑马鱼(MPX)处理前后皮肤中性粒细胞数量变化来检测本发明口红产品的抗炎舒缓的修护功效,检测方法如下:
1)用鱼准备:随机选取45尾斑马鱼(MPX)于6孔板中,每孔15尾;
2)添加样品:以0.5%的浓度将样品添加到6孔板中,每孔定容3mL,同时设置模型对照组和正常对照组;
3)造模:用十二烷基苯磺酸钠对模型对照组和样品组进行处理;
4)孵育:将个实验组于28℃条件下避光孵育18h;
5)拍照:每组随机选取10尾斑马鱼在荧光显微镜下拍照并保存图片;
6)数据处理:样品抗炎舒缓功效按以下公式计算:
将实验结果用SPSS进行统计学分析,检测结果表4所示:
表4抗炎舒缓功效
由表4可见,本发明所制备的口红的抗炎舒缓的效果较为显著。
如图4可见,图中曲线为斑马鱼卵黄囊及背部皮肤,曲线区域为中性粒细胞技术区域,可以看出,实施例1的口红样品组的斑马鱼中性粒细胞个数与模型对照组相比由明显减少,样品具有明显的抗炎舒缓功效。
综上可见,本发明所制备的纯生物来源的口红产品,安全、健康、滋润保湿,并且具有一定的抗氧化、抗紫外、抗蓝光和修护、抗炎舒缓的效果。
Claims (9)
1.一种抗光老的深度修护100%纯生物来源的口红,其特征在于,所述口红的组成原料如下:石榴甾醇类提取物、白池花籽油、毛瑞榈果油、水黄皮籽提取物、蜂蜡、小烛树蜡、牛油果树果脂油、大裂叶五桤木籽油、虾青素、印度楝花提取物、印度楝籽提取物、红瓜果提取物、糖鞘脂类、磷脂、胆甾醇、突厥蔷薇花提取物、厚朴树皮提取物、西洋接骨木果油、透明质酸钠以及生育酚。
2.根据权利要求1所述的深度修护100%纯生物来源的口红,其特征在于,按重量份数计,所述石榴甾醇类提取物占15~40份、白池花籽油占15~30份、毛瑞榈果油占10~15份、水黄皮籽提取物占10~15份、蜂蜡占10~20份、小烛树蜡占10~15份、牛油果树果脂油占10~20份、大裂叶五桤木籽油占10~15份、虾青素占3~6份、印度楝花提取物占0.1~1份、印度楝籽提取物占0.1~1份、红瓜果提取物占0.1~1份、糖鞘脂类占0.5~1份、磷脂占0.5~1份、胆甾醇占0.5~1份、突厥蔷薇花提取物占0.1~1份、厚朴树皮提取物占0.1~1份、西洋接骨木果油占2~5份、透明质酸钠占0.5~1份以及生育酚占0.1~1份。
3.根据权利要求1所述的深度修护100%纯生物来源的口红,其特征在于,所述石榴甾醇类提取物的制备如下:
选取石榴果皮以及石榴籽,置于真空下烘干至水分为5~10%,烘干温度为80~85℃,研磨过筛至80~100目,封装之后,用于间歇式超临界萃取仪萃取,之后分离,得到石榴甾醇类提取物。
4.根据权利要求3所述的深度修护100%纯生物来源的口红,其特征在于,所述萃取的温度为40~50℃,压力为35~40MPa;
所述分离的温度为33~38℃,压力为6~10MPa。
5.根据权利要求1所述的深度修护100%纯生物来源的口红,其特征在于,所述西洋接骨木果油的提取工艺为:取西洋接骨木的果实,清洗干净捣碎、以1:(8~10)mg/mL的料液比与木糖醇、绿原酸的混合物混合,进行超声微波处理,冷却至室温之后进行间歇式超临界萃取仪萃取,之后分离,即得到西洋接骨木果油。
6.根据权利要求5所述的深度修护100%纯生物来源的口红,其特征在于,所述木糖醇和绿原酸的混合质量比为(3~4):(4~7)。
7.根据权利要求5所述的深度修护100%纯生物来源的口红,其特征在于,所述超声微波处理的条件为微波的频率为600~800MHz,超声的频率为800~1000MHz,反应温度为215~225℃;
所述减压浓缩的压力为0.05~0.08MPa,温度为70~80℃;
所述冷冻干燥的温度条件为-10~0℃。
8.根据权利要求5所述的深度修护100%纯生物来源的口红,其特征在于,所述萃取的温度为30~40℃,压力为25~30MPa;
所述分离的温度为30~35℃,压力为10~15MPa。
9.一种抗光老的深度修护100%纯生物来源的口红的制备工艺,其特征在于,包括如下步骤:
1)将白池花籽油、毛瑞榈果油、水黄皮籽提取物、糖鞘脂类、磷脂、胆甾醇混合,升温至70~80℃进行搅拌加热,得到均质混合物A;
2)将牛油果树果脂油、大裂叶五桤木籽油、印度楝花提取物、印度楝籽提取物、红瓜果提取物、突厥蔷薇花提取物、厚朴树皮提取物混合,升温至80~90℃进行搅拌加热,再降温至70~80℃,缓慢添加透明质酸钠粉末,搅拌均匀,得到均质混合物B;
4)在70~80℃的温度下,将均质混合物A、B混合,缓慢加入蜂蜡、小烛树蜡和生育酚,搅拌均匀,之后降温至60~70℃,缓慢加入石榴甾醇类提取物、西洋接骨木果油和虾青素,搅拌均匀之后倒模成形,即得到口红产品。
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