CN115151233A - 含有天然保湿因子的粘贴型化妆料 - Google Patents
含有天然保湿因子的粘贴型化妆料 Download PDFInfo
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- CN115151233A CN115151233A CN202180016991.0A CN202180016991A CN115151233A CN 115151233 A CN115151233 A CN 115151233A CN 202180016991 A CN202180016991 A CN 202180016991A CN 115151233 A CN115151233 A CN 115151233A
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Abstract
本发明提供一种用于角质改善效果的缓解了皮肤刺激的化妆料组合物。本发明提供包含30~100质量%的水溶性或水溶胀性高分子化合物以及1种或2种以上的天然保湿因子的微针型化妆料组合物(此处,在该组合物包含100质量%的水溶性或水溶胀性高分子化合物的情况下,该水溶性或水溶胀性高分子化合物为天然保湿因子)、以及包括制备水溶性或水溶胀性高分子化合物的水溶液、并向该水溶液中混合1种或多种天然保湿因子而制造化妆用原料液的工序的所述微针型化妆料组合物的制造方法。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及一种含有天然保湿因子的粘贴型化妆料。具体而言,涉及作为主成分含有作为有价值成分的天然保湿因子的微针的技术领域。
背景技术
皮肤的最重要的作用是发挥保护肌肤免受来自外部的细菌侵入和损伤的防御壁(defense barrier)的作用,并且防止从内部损失热和水分。皮肤由多个层形成,将其中的位于最外侧的层称作表皮(epidermis),在其下为真皮、皮下脂肪层,分类为三个部分。
表皮被进一步细分为角质层、颗粒层、有棘层、基底层,在基底层中生成的表皮细胞用14天上升到颗粒层并开始角质化。角质层由经过分化的表皮细胞(角质细胞)和充满其间的细胞间脂质(Skin Lipid)形成,防止体内的物质向外部流出,具有保护人体免受外部的物理、化学、生物学的刺激的防御功能。
角质细胞由桥粒之类的蛋白质连接,越是升高到角质层上部,桥粒越多地发生分解,角质细胞间的凝聚力越弱,最终角质细胞被从皮肤分离。在正常皮肤的情况下,角质层由15~20层形成,它们完全被分离要花费15~20天。但是,随着年龄增长,作为构成皮肤的成分的表皮、真皮以及皮下组织的厚度变薄,肌肤的水分含量急剧地减少,因对肌肤赋予弹性的ECM(细胞外基质:Extracellular Matrix)成分的变化而使皮肤失去弹力形成皱纹,角质层的分离比通常情况更晚而使角质层变厚(角质的多层化),从而使肌肤失去活力。
为了改善肌肤的活力,使用各种各样的护肤化妆品、护发制品等,然而因角质层的上述防御功能而有难以使有效成分向皮肤充分地渗透的课题。作为向皮肤表层和/或皮肤角质层的特定场所可靠地供给药效成分的方法,正在积极地进行微针的研究。例如提出过在基板上设有正方柱状或圆柱状的桩的功能性微型桩(专利文献1),所述桩由麦芽糖等在机体内溶解消失的糖质形成,呈一边或直径为0.1~100μm的正方形或圆形的剖面形状,长度为0.5~500μm,还提出过在中心构件的周围设有包含聚乳酸、麦芽糖等生物降解性材料作为成分的多个针的皮肤用针(专利文献2)。
作为包含化妆品成分的微针,已知有若干项技术(专利文献3~5)。专利文献3公开过将美白成分、抗皱成分、促进血行成分、营养助剂、抗菌剂、维生素等化妆品成分作为可溶性微针阵列的成分送达。专利文献4出于使皮肤的新陈代谢正常化、改善由形成于表皮的紧密连接带来的屏蔽功能的目的,公开过包含磷酸化寡糖钙和水溶性高分子的微针片。专利文献5出于防止或处置皮肤的老化、具体而言是由氧化的应激诱发的皮肤的老化的目的,公开过包含水溶性或水分散性聚合物及至少1种的C-糖苷的微针片。另外,专利文献4及5中记载,微针片可以任意地包含保湿剂、抗氧化剂、美白剂等成分。
现有技术文献
专利文献
专利文献1:日本特开2003-238347号公报
专利文献2:日本特开2006-346126号公报
专利文献3:日本特表2015-522342号公报
专利文献4:日本特开2017-145226号公报
专利文献5:日本特开2019-206500号公报
发明内容
发明所要解决的课题
本发明所要解决的课题是用于解决上述的以往技术的问题的课题,提供用于角质改善效果的缓解了皮肤刺激的化妆料组合物。
用于解决课题的手段
在此种背景下,本发明人等对用于角质层的活化、保湿的化妆料组合物进行了研究,完成了以天然保湿因子作为主成分的用于角质改善的微针型化妆料组合物。
本发明如下所示。
〔1〕一种微针型化妆料组合物,其包含30~100质量%的水溶性或水溶胀性高分子化合物以及1种或2种以上的天然保湿因子(此处,在该组合物包含100质量%的水溶性或水溶胀性高分子化合物的情况下,该水溶性或水溶胀性高分子化合物为天然保湿因子)。
〔2〕根据〔1〕中记载的化妆料组合物,其中,所述水溶性或水溶胀性高分子化合物为选自透明质酸、PEG接枝透明质酸以及它们的盐、羟丙基纤维素、羧甲基纤维素、硫酸软骨素钠、聚乙烯醇、以及蛋白聚糖中的水溶性高分子化合物的1种或2种以上、或者作为该水溶性高分子化合物的交联物的水溶胀性高分子化合物。
〔3〕根据〔1〕或〔2〕中记载的化妆料组合物,其中,相对于组合物的总质量包含0.1质量%以上的所述天然保湿因子。
〔4〕根据〔1〕或〔2〕中记载的化妆料组合物,其中,相对于组合物的总质量包含8质量%以上的所述天然保湿因子。
〔5〕根据〔1〕~〔4〕中任一项记载的化妆料组合物,其中,所述天然保湿因子的分子量1000以下的成分相对于组合物的总质量为70质量%以下。
〔6〕根据〔1〕~〔5〕中任一项记载的化妆料组合物,其中,所述天然保湿因子以溶解或分散在微针型化妆料组合物中的状态存在。
〔7〕根据〔1〕~〔6〕中任一项记载的化妆料组合物,其中,所述天然保湿因子为选自包含氨基酸类、氨基酸类的代谢物、吡咯烷酮羧酸及其盐、尿素类、无机离子及无机盐类、以及有机酸盐类的物质中的1种或2种以上。
〔8〕根据〔7〕中记载的化妆料组合物,其中,所述尿素类为选自尿素、氨、尿酸、葡萄糖胺、肌酸酐以及尿刊酸中的物质。
〔9〕根据〔7〕中记载的化妆料组合物,其中,所述尿素类为葡萄糖胺、或者葡萄糖胺与选自尿素、氨、尿酸、肌酸酐以及尿刊酸中的1种以上的物质的组合。
〔10〕一种微针型化妆料组合物的制造方法,其包括:
制备水溶性或水溶胀性高分子化合物的水溶液、并向该水溶液中混合1种或多种天然保湿因子而制造化妆用原料液的工序;
在微针用铸模中流延所述化妆用原料液的工序;
加热所述铸模而使所述化妆用原料液干燥的工序;以及
从所述铸模中取出成形为微针的化妆料组合物的工序。
〔11〕根据〔10〕中记载的制造方法,其中,通过使所述天然保湿因子溶解或悬浮于水与醇、水与多元醇、或水与醇与多元醇的混合液中而制造所述化妆用原料液。
发明效果
根据本发明,可以通过天然保湿因子的角质皮质活化效果来恢复皮肤的屏蔽功能,维持更加年轻、健康的肌肤。
附图说明
图1是表示本发明的微针阵列的制造方法的一例的剖视图。
具体实施方式
微针型化妆料组合物包括以下的构成。
微针阵列
在厚度10~200μm的基板上林立着高度100~400μm的锥状火山状或金字塔状、针状的微针。关于微针的构成物质,在基剂中以溶解或悬浮状态分散着有价值物质。
有价值物质以天然保湿因子作为主成分。本发明中,天然保湿因子起到在皮肤角质层中维持角质层的物理特性的作用。
天然保湿因子由多种物质形成,它们被分类为6种成分。以下列举6种成分和属于它的物质。
成分1.氨基酸类(为包含甜菜碱、天冬氨酸、谷氨酸、亮氨酸、异亮氨酸、蛋氨酸、色氨酸、组氨酸、苯丙氨酸、苏氨酸、丝氨酸、缬氨酸、脯氨酸、甘氨酸、丙氨酸、赖氨酸、精氨酸、鸟氨酸等的物质,然而并不限定于此。)
成分2.氨基酸类的代谢物(为包含丙酮酸、2-氧代戊二酸、琥珀酰辅酶A、富马酸、草酰乙酸、乙酰辅酶A、乙酰乙酸等的物质,然而并不限定于此。)
成分3.吡咯烷酮羧酸类(吡咯烷酮羧酸及其盐)
成分4.尿素类(为包含尿素、氨、尿酸、葡萄糖胺、肌酸酐、尿刊酸、等的物质,然而并不限定于此。)
成分5.无机离子及无机盐类(为包含钠、钾、钙、镁、磷酸钠、氯化物等的物质,然而并不限定于此。)
成分6.有机酸盐类(为包含乳酸钠、柠檬酸钠、透明质酸钠等的物质,然而并不限定于此。)
从其效果的观点出发,所述尿素类优选为葡萄糖胺、或葡萄糖胺与选自尿素、氨、尿酸、肌酸酐以及尿刊酸中的1种以上的物质的组合。
可以相对于微针的总质量包含0.1~100质量%、优选1~95质量%、更优选5~92质量%、进一步优选11~70质量%、最优选12~70质量%的上述天然保湿因子。在以小于0.1质量%包含上述天然保湿因子的情况下,其效果过于低薄。透明质酸钠(有机酸盐类)之类的自身具有结构形成强度并且具有保湿性能的化合物可以为100质量%。在CMC(羧甲基纤维素)等基剂的保湿性能低的情况下,天然保湿因子的含量期望为8质量%以上,更优选为11~70质量%,进一步优选为12~70质量%。无机离子及盐类及氨基酸类之类的低分子由于其自身没有结构形成能力,因此必须通过与水溶性或水溶胀性高分子化合物的混合来赋予作为微针所必需的强度。
本发明的化妆料组合物可以还包含保湿剂、例如甘油、二丙二醇、丁二醇等多元醇作为其他成分。
本发明的化妆料组合物可以还包含通常的化妆品中能够使用的所有种类的成分、例如紫外线阻隔剂、中和剂、增稠剂、香料、防腐剂、抗氧化剂、色素等作为其他成分。
为了微针化,用于在以溶解或分散状态含有作为主成分的天然保湿因子的同时保持针形状并且保持能够经得起应用于皮肤的硬度的基剂是必需的。作为基剂,适合为水溶性高分子化合物及其交联物。例如,适合为透明质酸、羟丙基纤维素、硫酸软骨素钠、聚乙烯醇、蛋白聚糖、PEG接枝透明质酸(例如日本特开2017-019791中记载的化合物)等未交联物。若使用交联剂使这些水溶性高分子化合物以适度的交联密度交联,则虽然没有向水中的溶解性,然而产生溶胀性。本发明中,将它们称作水溶胀性高分子化合物。其中,透明质酸的交联物有过大量的报告,在本发明中也可以合适地使用。
基剂在微针总质量中的比例为30~100质量%,适合为30~90质量%。若小于30质量%,则微针的机械强度变弱,若大于90质量%,则有有效性减弱的危险。
但是,在作为基剂的水溶性或水溶胀性高分子化合物的比例为100质量%的情况下,该水溶性或水溶胀性高分子化合物为天然保湿因子,具体而言,为作为有机酸盐类的透明质酸钠、蛋白聚糖、硫酸软骨素钠、交联透明质酸等。
另外,若包含大量天然保湿因子的低分子的成分,则微针的机械强度变弱,天然保湿因子的分子量1000以下的成分在总质量中的比例优选为70质量%以下。
微针型化妆料组合物的制造方法
本发明的制造方法包括下述工序(1)~(4)。
(1)制备水溶性或水溶胀性高分子化合物的水溶液、并向该水溶液中混合1种或多种天然保湿因子而制造化妆用原料液的工序;
(2)在微针用铸模中流延所述化妆用原料液的工序;
(3)加热所述铸模而使所述化妆用原料液干燥的工序;以及
(4)从所述铸模中取出成形为微针的化妆料组合物的工序。
上述工序(1)~(4)没有特别限定,可以使用以往公知的任意的工序。例如可以举出如下的方法,即,在穿设有微针的形状的铸模中,流延在上述工序(1)中制造的化妆用原料液(水溶液或悬浮液)中根据需要加入有其他成分的化妆用原料液并使之干燥,将成形为微针的化妆料组合物剥离并取出。剥离后,将化妆料组合物裁切为任意的形状(贴片),并根据需要用粘合性支承体加衬后使用。
在所述工序(1)中,优选使所述天然保湿因子溶解或悬浮于水与醇、水与多元醇、或水与醇与多元醇的混合液中而制造化妆用原料液。
此处,作为醇,可以举出乙醇、异丙醇,作为多元醇,可以举出甘油、丙二醇。作为醇与多元醇的组合,优选乙醇与甘油、乙醇与丙二醇,这些混合液中含有的醇和/或多元醇可以根据天然保湿因子的种类及含量适当地选择。另外,水与醇和/或多元醇的比例也可以根据天然保湿因子的种类及含量适当地设定。
由微针阵列形成的贴片(微针贴片)的大小为1~50平方厘米。若小于1平方厘米,则效果受到限制,难以发挥有效性。若大于50平方厘米,则在覆盖身体表面时容易在密合性方面产生问题。要覆盖大的身体表面,只要使用多个50平方厘米以下的微针贴片即可。
为了将微针贴片稳定地应用于皮肤并保持于皮肤,虽然并非必须,然而更优选在贴片的背面具有粘合性支承体。粘合性支承体为在一面具有粘合剂层的支承体膜。
作为本发明的粘合层,考虑与皮肤的密合性和向支承体膜的附着性来确定。具体而言从丙烯酸系粘合剂、橡胶系粘合剂、硅酮系粘合剂、氨基甲酸酯系粘合剂等中选择。在这些粘合剂中,为了改善皮肤粘合性,可以添加肉豆蔻酸异丙酯或棕榈酸异丙酯之类的增塑剂、增粘剂、液状烃等。粘合层的厚度期望为10μm~250μm。
作为支承体膜,优选包含合成高分子的膜,具体而言,可以使用聚乙烯醇、聚烯烃、聚氨酯、PET(聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯)等。
实施例
以下,利用下述实施例对本发明进一步详细说明。这些实施例是单纯地用于具体说明本发明的例子,本发明的范围并不限定于这些实施例。
实施例1
微针阵列的制作
图1是表示本发明的微针阵列的制造方法的一例的剖视图。图中,1是在利用对感光性树脂进行光照射的光刻法形成锥状火山型的微针图案后、通过进行电铸加工而转印了锥状火山型的微针图案的形成有锥状火山型的微针形成用凹部11的铸模。2是流延于微针形成用凹部11的化妆料原料液。
微针形成用凹部11是根部的直径为0.6mm、尖端直径为0.02mm、深度为0.25mm的锥状火山型,以0.8mm间隔排列成格子状。
在室温下将在水100质量份中溶解有透明质酸(Kikkoman Biochemifa制、商品名“FCH-SU”、分子量100000)20质量份和复合湿润剂(味之素Healthy Supply株式会社制、商品名PRODEW、包含多个氨基酸<成分1>和吡咯烷酮羧酸<成分2>)20质量份的透明质酸水溶液(化妆料原料液)流延在铸模1上,加热使透明质酸水溶液层的水分蒸发后,从铸模1剥离并冲裁为椭圆形(7×50mm、短径×长径)。
带有保护粘合胶带的微针阵列的制作
将椭圆形的微针阵列(7×50mm、短径×长径)安放在做成圆角的长方形(9×56mm)的带有支承体(聚乙烯膜厚度40μm)的粘合带(HiPAS(注册商标)10、CosMED制药制粘合剂、厚度30μm)的中央部,由此得到本发明的带有保护粘合胶带的微针阵列(片A)。
实施例2
肌肤的纹理的评价
[试验的概要]
以5名被测者为对象在颜面部位粘贴实施例1的片A,5小时后剥下。第二天,利用显微镜观察被测者的颜面的粘贴部位及相邻的未粘贴部位,将纹理的状态与使用前比较并进行评价。
[评价结果]
<肌肤的纹理的改善效果的评价结果>
在使用实施例1的片A后,对于肌肤的纹理的改善,在5人当中,5人的肌肤的纹理均比使用前得到调理、改善。由此判断片A对于肌肤的纹理的改善有用。
实施例3~12
含有多种天然保湿因子成分的微针阵列的制作
仿照实施例1制作出3种加入天然保湿因子的微针阵列。下表中的数字是干燥后的组合物中的质量份。以使这些组合物为20质量份的方式溶解或悬浮于水70份、乙醇溶液10份中并进行干燥,制成微针阵列。其中,实施例4中透明质酸起到基剂和天然保湿因子两者的作用。
[表1]
利用实施例1~12制造的含有天然保湿因子的微针均具有足以应用于皮肤的机械强度。
[表2]
比较例1及比较例2的微针脆,膜性不佳。
附图标记说明
1 铸模,2 化妆用原料液,11 微针形成用凹部。
Claims (11)
1.一种微针型化妆料组合物,其包含:
30质量%~100质量%的水溶性或水溶胀性高分子化合物、以及
1种或2种以上的天然保湿因子;
此处,在所述组合物包含100质量%的水溶性或水溶胀性高分子化合物的情况下,所述水溶性或水溶胀性高分子化合物为天然保湿因子。
2.根据权利要求1所述的化妆料组合物,其中,
所述水溶性或水溶胀性高分子化合物为:选自透明质酸、PEG接枝透明质酸以及它们的盐、羟丙基纤维素、羧甲基纤维素、硫酸软骨素钠、聚乙烯醇、以及蛋白聚糖中的水溶性高分子化合物的1种或2种以上、或者作为所述水溶性高分子化合物的交联物的水溶胀性高分子化合物。
3.根据权利要求1或2所述的化妆料组合物,其中,
相对于组合物的总质量包含0.1质量%以上的所述天然保湿因子。
4.根据权利要求1或2所述的化妆料组合物,其中,
相对于组合物的总质量包含8质量%以上的所述天然保湿因子。
5.根据权利要求1~4中任一项所述的化妆料组合物,其中,
所述天然保湿因子的分子量1000以下的成分相对于组合物的总质量为70质量%以下。
6.根据权利要求1~5中任一项所述的化妆料组合物,其中,
所述天然保湿因子以溶解或分散在微针型化妆料组合物中的状态存在。
7.根据权利要求1~6中任一项所述的化妆料组合物,其中,
所述天然保湿因子为选自包含氨基酸类、氨基酸类的代谢物、吡咯烷酮羧酸及其盐、尿素类、无机离子及无机盐类、以及有机酸盐类的物质中的1种或2种以上。
8.根据权利要求7所述的化妆料组合物,其中,
所述尿素类为选自尿素、氨、尿酸、葡萄糖胺、肌酸酐以及尿刊酸中的物质。
9.根据权利要求7所述的化妆料组合物,其中,
所述尿素类为葡萄糖胺、或者葡萄糖胺与选自尿素、氨、尿酸、肌酸酐以及尿刊酸中的1种以上的物质的组合。
10.一种微针型化妆料组合物的制造方法,其包括:
制备水溶性或水溶胀性高分子化合物的水溶液、并向所述水溶液中混合1种或多种天然保湿因子而制造化妆用原料液的工序;
在微针用铸模中流延所述化妆用原料液的工序;
加热所述铸模而使所述化妆用原料液干燥的工序;以及
从所述铸模中取出成形为微针的化妆料组合物的工序。
11.根据权利要求10所述的制造方法,其中,
通过使所述天然保湿因子溶解或悬浮于水与醇、水与多元醇、或水与醇与多元醇的混合液中来制造所述化妆用原料液。
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US20140200508A1 (en) * | 2012-06-29 | 2014-07-17 | Isaac D. Cohen | Microneedles Comprising One Or More Cosmetic Ingredients |
WO2017018086A1 (ja) * | 2015-07-29 | 2017-02-02 | 日本写真印刷株式会社 | マイクロニードルシート |
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