CN114939093B - Whitening and moisturizing composition containing amino acid and application of composition in cosmetics - Google Patents

Whitening and moisturizing composition containing amino acid and application of composition in cosmetics Download PDF

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CN114939093B
CN114939093B CN202210671141.0A CN202210671141A CN114939093B CN 114939093 B CN114939093 B CN 114939093B CN 202210671141 A CN202210671141 A CN 202210671141A CN 114939093 B CN114939093 B CN 114939093B
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amino acid
vitamin
whitening
carboxymethyl
solution
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CN114939093A (en
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朱永闯
岑水斌
陈杰生
龚盛昭
黄金辉
郑丹阳
蔡丽华
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Guangzhou Fanzhirong Cosmetics Co ltd
Guangzhou Qingnong Biotechnology Co ltd
Zhiyueyun Guangzhou Digital Information Technology Co ltd
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Guangzhou Qingnong Biotechnology Co ltd
Guangzhou Fanzhirong Cosmetics Co ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9794Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/11Encapsulated compositions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • A61K8/673Vitamin B group
    • A61K8/675Vitamin B3 or vitamin B3 active, e.g. nicotinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl aldehyde
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • A61K8/678Tocopherol, i.e. vitamin E
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/735Mucopolysaccharides, e.g. hyaluronic acid; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/82Preparation or application process involves sonication or ultrasonication
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y02TECHNOLOGIES OR APPLICATIONS FOR MITIGATION OR ADAPTATION AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE
    • Y02ATECHNOLOGIES FOR ADAPTATION TO CLIMATE CHANGE
    • Y02A50/00TECHNOLOGIES FOR ADAPTATION TO CLIMATE CHANGE in human health protection, e.g. against extreme weather
    • Y02A50/30Against vector-borne diseases, e.g. mosquito-borne, fly-borne, tick-borne or waterborne diseases whose impact is exacerbated by climate change

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Abstract

The invention discloses a whitening and moisturizing composition containing amino acid, which comprises the following components: olive leaf extract, aloe extract, emulsifying agent, amino acid humectant, thickener, vitamin E, sodium hyaluronate, nicotinamide and water. The amino acid humectant is prepared by breaking the walls of Morchella esculenta and Ginseng radix rich in amino acids by a high pressure homogenizing wall breaking machine, and performing enzymolysis to better extract the amino acid moisturizing component; the vitamin E is the vitamin E encapsulated by the whey protein-carboxymethyl psyllium seed gum, the encapsulated vitamin E is more stable, and can achieve the effect of slow release after being absorbed by skin, thereby fully playing the functions of oxidation resistance and in-vivo free radical elimination.

Description

Whitening and moisturizing composition containing amino acid and application of composition in cosmetics
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a whitening and moisturizing composition containing amino acid and application of the whitening and moisturizing composition in cosmetics.
Background
The main reasons for skin aging are that the loss of moisturizing factors causes the skin to have low water content and the damage of oxygen free radicals to epidermal cells. Most of the aging phenomena are collagen, collagen is immediately appeared in the brain, collagen loss causes collagen peptide bonds supporting skin and elastic net to crack, the spiral net structure is destroyed immediately, skin tissues are oxidized, atrophic and trapped, and the skin is dried, wrinkled, loose and inelastic and the like and is aged. Therefore, to keep the skin moist, the skin must be supplemented with collagen, and sufficient collagen can accumulate moisture in the dermis, so that the skin is plump and compact. The basic form of the protein is protein polypeptide, and the composition of the polypeptide is amino acid, so that the composition of human skin has to be extracted from the amino acid, and a large amount of free amino acid exists in the epidermis stratum corneum of the human, so that the protein has important significance in the aspects of moisture preservation and skin steady state maintenance; the collagen fiber and the elastic fiber are the main components of the dermis layer, play a role in maintaining skin elasticity, play a role in delaying aging, and the amino acid humectant naturally exists in organism tissues and is a natural moisturizing factor, and the amino acid humectant has the characteristics of high purity, easy use, good stability and the like, and is also the reason that the amino acid and the derivative humectant thereof are widely applied in cosmetics.
At present, cosmetics containing natural amino acids and derivatives thereof as moisturizers are still hot spots for vast scholars to study.
CN109172438A provides a ginkgo leaf extract skin care cosmetic and a preparation method thereof, wherein the skin care cosmetic is prepared from the following raw materials in parts by weight: 6-12 parts of ginkgo leaf extract, 6-12 parts of sphagnum extract, 1-3 parts of shell powder, 3-5 parts of glycerol, 0.1-0.3 part of amino acid, 0.01-0.1 part of vitamin E and 30-50 parts of water. The ginkgo leaf extract skin care cosmetic disclosed by the invention adopts the natural plant extract and amino acid which is a substance for nourishing human skin cells, is compounded with vitamin E, has no irritation to skin, has the effect of whitening skin, can further whiten skin by adding the nano shell powder, and can be used for harmonizing the viscosity of the skin care product, so that the skin care product is more comfortable to use. However, the nano shell powder is a powdery whitening agent, has the problems of poor use feeling, thick texture, greasy skin feeling and easy whitening after being applied to skin, and easy pore blocking when the application amount is large, and meanwhile, the vitamin E used as a raw material in the nano shell powder is unstable, so that the oxidation resistance and free radical resistance effects of the product are influenced. Therefore, it is necessary to provide a whitening and moisturizing composition containing amino acids which has good stability and good whitening and moisturizing effects.
Disclosure of Invention
In view of the above-mentioned drawbacks of the prior art, the present invention aims to provide a whitening and moisturizing composition containing natural amino acids, which has good whitening and moisturizing effects.
In order to achieve the above purpose, the invention provides a whitening and moisturizing composition containing amino acid, which has good stability, can effectively resist free radicals and has good moisturizing effect.
In order to achieve the above object, the present invention adopts the following technical scheme:
an amino acid-containing whitening and moisturizing composition comprises the following components: olive leaf extract, aloe extract, emulsifying agent, amino acid humectant, thickener, vitamin E, sodium hyaluronate, nicotinamide and water.
Preferably, the whitening and moisturizing composition containing amino acid comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.1-3% olive leaf extract, 0.1-3% aloe extract, 5-10% emulsifying agent, 2-5% amino acid humectant, 0.5-3% thickening agent, 3-5% vitamin E, 3-5% sodium hyaluronate, 5-8% nicotinamide and the balance of water.
Preferably, the emulsifier is one or two or more of the group consisting of the sclero-polyether, the triethanolamine and the sodium laureth sulfate.
Preferably, the preparation method of the amino acid humectant comprises the following steps:
1) Soaking clean Morchella with 3-5 times of water, then placing into a high pressure pulse wall breaking machine with pressure of 0.5-2.0MPa, maintaining for 1-10min, rapidly releasing pressure, and collecting Morchella discharged from a discharge opening;
2) Mixing and standing the collected Morchella esculenta, ginseng radix and water for 20-30min, homogenizing under 40-100MPa for 30-50min to obtain extractive solution, centrifuging the extractive solution, and collecting supernatant;
3) Regulating the temperature of the supernatant to 30-37 ℃ and the pH value to 6.5-8.0, adding cellulase into the supernatant, carrying out ultrasonic extraction for 1-2h, wherein the extraction temperature is 45-55 ℃, cooling to 20-30 ℃ after the extraction is finished, filtering, collecting filtrate, decolorizing the filtrate with active carbon for 1-1.5h, then decompressing and evaporating the solvent, and finally drying at 60-80 ℃ for 6-8h to obtain the amino acid humectant.
Preferably, in the step 2), the mass ratio of Morchella esculenta, ginseng and water is 2-4:1-2:30-60.
Preferably, the cellulase in the step 3) is added in an amount of 0.01% -0.05% by weight of the supernatant.
Morchella, the most well known delicious edible fungus among ascomycetes. Morchella has rich nutrition, contains complete amino acids, comprises 8 human essential amino acids and more than 10 non-essential amino acids, is a high-quality amino acid supplementing source, and is called as meat in vegetables. Morchella contains multiple vitamins, polysaccharides for inhibiting tumor, and active components for resisting bacteria and viruses, and has effects of enhancing organism immunity, resisting fatigue and virus, and inhibiting tumor. The ginseng is rich in various amino acids such as threonine, serine, glutamic acid, proline and the like, and has the effects of resisting tumor and aging, reducing myocardial ischemia injury, improving matrix immunity, reducing blood sugar and lipid and the like. The inventor breaks the wall of Morchella esculenta and Ginseng radix by a high pressure homogenizing wall breaking machine, which is favorable for dissolving out intracellular functional components, provides more enzymolysis sites for the next enzymolysis, increases more moisturizing components, and can well improve the state of skin desiccation by using the amino acid humectant in the whitening and moisturizing composition.
Preferably, the thickener is one or two or more of xanthan gum, acacia, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and carbomer.
Preferably, the vitamin E is a vitamin E encapsulated by a whey protein-psyllium seed gum complex, and the preparation method is as follows:
adding 0.1-0.3wt% whey protein water solution into rapeseed oil solution containing 1-2wt% vitamin E at 20-40deg.C, stirring for 5-10min; then adding 0.1-0.3wt% of plantain seed glue solution, regulating the pH value of the solution to 3.5-5.5 by using 10-20wt% of acetic acid aqueous solution, stirring and reacting for 10-30min, placing the system in an ice bath at 0-5 ℃, then adding transglutaminase, reacting for 3-4h, standing for 20-24h, removing supernatant, and freeze-drying the precipitate at-20 to-25 ℃ for 20-24h to obtain the vitamin E encapsulated by the whey protein-plantain seed glue compound.
Preferably, the dosage ratio of the rapeseed oil solution, the whey protein water solution and the psyllium seed aqueous solution is 1-2:3-6:1-2.
Preferably, the total dosage ratio of the aqueous solution of transglutaminase and whey protein to the aqueous solution of psyllium seed gum is 0.001-0.003g/mL.
Further preferably, the psyllium seed gum is carboxymethyl psyllium seed gum, and the preparation method thereof is as follows:
mixing semen plantaginis gum, 1-3mol/L sodium hydroxide aqueous solution, and 90-99wt% ethanol aqueous solution at 20-40deg.C, and stirring for 10-30min; adding monochloroacetic acid, and stirring for 10-30min to obtain mixed solution; heating the mixed solution to 50-80 ℃ for reaction for 10-12h; cooling to 20-40deg.C, filtering, dissolving the filter cake with 3-5 times of water, adding absolute ethanol, precipitating, filtering, washing the filter cake with methanol, and drying at 40-60deg.C for 10-12 hr to obtain carboxymethyl semen plantaginis gum.
Preferably, the dosage ratio of the psyllium seed gum, the sodium hydroxide aqueous solution, the ethanol aqueous solution and the monochloroacetic acid is 1-3g:5-10mL:20-30mL:4-5g.
Vitamin E is an effective antioxidant in nature, can inhibit lipid peroxidation caused by free radicals, has protective effect on human body cells and tissues suffering from free radical invasion caused by internal metabolism and external environment stimulation, and is mainly used for improving skin dryness and nourishing and tendering skin. After the vitamin E is absorbed by skin, the peroxidation of lipid and lipoprotein on cell membranes can be reduced to protect the normal functions of cells, and the vitamin E can also keep moisture and has obvious moisturizing effect when a certain dosage is reached. The ultraviolet irradiation can generate high-activity free radicals, and the vitamin E has the function of scavenging the free radicals, can repair the damage of epidermal cells caused by radiation, and has anti-inflammatory effect; after the vitamin E is absorbed through skin, the photo-aging can be delayed, and the generation of sunburn erythema can be inhibited.
Although vitamin E itself has remarkable oxidation resistance and function of eliminating free radicals in vivo, vitamin E is easily oxidized to lose activity due to the hydroxyl group on the benzene ring of vitamin E, and vitamin E is a fat-soluble substance, insoluble in water and unstable, so that in order to improve the defect of vitamin E, the inventor encapsulates vitamin E in the whey protein-plantain seed gum compound, thus improving the poor water solubility and improving the stability of the whey protein-plantain seed gum compound. The method is characterized in that the whey protein and the plantago seed gum can undergo Maillard reaction to form a coacervation system, carboxymethyl plantago seed gum is inserted into carboxymethyl groups in plantago seed gum molecules to cause the carboxymethyl groups to undergo cross-linking reaction with the whey protein more easily through electrostatic attraction to form a complex coacervation system, the complex coacervation system can be used as a material for encapsulating vitamin E, the encapsulated vitamin E can be more stably present in cosmetics, can be slowly released in skin after being absorbed by the skin, fully plays the functions of resisting oxidation and eliminating free radicals in the body, reduces skin wrinkles and delays skin aging, and the inventor also discovers that the emulsifying property of the encapsulating material whey protein-carboxymethyl plantago seed gum composite material is superior to that of the whey protein and the plantago seed gum.
The preparation method of the whitening and moisturizing composition containing amino acid comprises the following steps:
s1, weighing raw materials according to a formula, mixing a thickening agent, vitamin E and nicotinamide, heating to 70-85 ℃, and uniformly stirring and mixing to obtain a material A;
s2, mixing an amino acid humectant, sodium hyaluronate and water, heating to 70-85 ℃, and stirring until the mixture is completely dissolved to obtain a material B;
s3, pumping the material A and the material B into an emulsifying device, adding an emulsifying agent, homogenizing for 3-8min, preserving heat and stirring for 15-20min, then cooling to 40-45 ℃, adding olive leaf extract and aloe extract, homogenizing for 3-5min, and discharging to obtain the whitening and moisturizing composition containing amino acid.
The invention also provides application of the whitening and moisturizing composition containing amino acid in cosmetics, which comprises the following specific steps: the whitening and moisturizing composition containing amino acid, preservative, essence, conditioner and surfactant are uniformly stirred and mixed to obtain the whitening and moisturizing composition containing amino acid.
The olive leaf extract mainly comes from olive trees, olive tree aliases olea, oleaceae, is a longevity tree species with strong growth capacity, the main components of the olive leaf extract are iridoid bitter substances, the most active components are oleuropein and hydroxytyrosol, and the olive leaf extract has spectral antibacterial and antiviral effects, and has the functions of resisting tumor, delaying aging and enhancing cardiovascular functions for human bodies.
The Aloe extract mainly comes from Aloe, and Aloe is perennial evergreen herb of lily and lily, contains anthraquinone, anthrone, chromone, flavone, amino acid, saccharide, vitamin, mineral matter and other bioactive components, and has the functions of regulating immunity, resisting radiation and mutation, filtering ultraviolet ray in sunlight, preventing pigment deposition, maintaining skin white, etc.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that:
the invention does not contain preservative, can ensure the stability of the system under the condition of no preservative, has good antibacterial effect and has no irritation; the added amino acid humectant breaks the wall of the Morchella esculenta ginseng through a high-pressure homogenizing wall breaking machine, is beneficial to dissolving out intracellular functional components, provides more enzymolysis sites for the next enzymolysis, and can increase more moisturizing components; the vitamin E encapsulated by the whey protein-carboxymethyl psyllium seed gum is added, and the encapsulated vitamin E can stably exist in cosmetics and can be slowly released in the skin after being absorbed by the skin, so that the effects of resisting oxidation and resisting free radicals are achieved.
Detailed Description
For the sake of brevity, the articles used in the examples below are commercially available products unless otherwise specified, and the methods used are conventional methods unless otherwise specified.
The sources of part of raw materials used in the invention are as follows:
morchella, yunnan of origin.
Ginseng, jilin Changbaishan mountain in the producing area.
The cellulase has the enzyme activity of 1 ten thousand U/g, and is manufactured by Nanjing Donghenghua biological technology Limited liability company.
Whey protein content is 99%, henan Wan Yongsheng biotechnology Co.
Psyllium seed gum, CAS number 8063-16-9, 99% content, shandong Zhenghong Biotech Co.
Vitamin E content 50%, hebei Baipin Biotechnology Co.
Transglutaminase has an enzyme activity of 10 ten thousand, an enzyme activity preservation rate of 85%, and is available from saline city rain biotechnology Co.
Olive leaf extract, brown yellow powder, 80 mesh, melting point 87-89 ℃, siemens, biotechnology Co.
The aloe extract is brown yellow powder, and is water extract with 80-100 mesh, and is available from Shanyang Lianfeng Biotechnology Co., ltd.
Example 1
A method for preparing a whitening and moisturizing composition containing amino acid, which comprises the following steps:
s1, mixing 2kg of hydroxymethyl cellulose, 4kg of vitamin E encapsulated by whey protein-carboxymethyl psyllium seed gum compound and 5kg of nicotinamide, heating to 85 ℃, and uniformly stirring and mixing to obtain a material A;
s2, mixing 4kg of an amino acid humectant, 5kg of sodium hyaluronate and 66kg of water, heating to 80 ℃, and stirring until the mixture is completely dissolved to obtain a material B;
and S3, pumping the material A and the material B into an emulsifying pot, adding 8kg of scleropolyether, homogenizing for 5min, preserving heat and stirring for 10min, cooling to 40 ℃, adding 3kg of olive leaf extract and 3kg of aloe extract, homogenizing for 4min, and discharging to obtain the whitening and moisturizing composition containing amino acid.
The preparation method of the amino acid humectant comprises the following steps:
1) Soaking clean Morchella with 5 times of water, then placing into a high-pressure pulse wall breaking machine with pressure of 1.0MPa, maintaining for 3min, rapidly releasing pressure, and collecting Morchella discharged from a discharge port;
2) Mixing 2kg of collected Morchella esculenta, 1kg of Ginseng radix and 20kg of water, standing for 30min, homogenizing under 60MPa for 40min to obtain extractive solution, centrifuging for 30min, and collecting supernatant;
3) Adjusting the temperature of the supernatant to 35 ℃ and the pH value to 7.0, adding cellulase with the addition amount of 0.05 percent of the weight of the supernatant, performing ultrasonic extraction for 1h, wherein the extraction temperature is 50 ℃, cooling to 30 ℃ after the extraction is finished, filtering, collecting filtrate, decolorizing the filtrate with active carbon for 1h, evaporating the solvent under reduced pressure, and finally drying at 60 ℃ for 8h to obtain the amino acid humectant.
The preparation method of the vitamin E encapsulated by the whey protein-carboxymethyl psyllium seed gum compound comprises the following steps:
(1) 10g of plantain seed gum, 60mL of 3mol/L aqueous sodium hydroxide solution and 230mL of 99wt% aqueous ethanol solution are mixed at 30 ℃ and stirred for 30min; 50g of monochloroacetic acid is added and stirred for 20min to obtain a mixed solution; heating the mixed solution to 60 ℃ for reaction for 12 hours; cooling to 30 ℃, filtering, dissolving a filter cake with water of which the mass is 5 times that of the filter cake, adding absolute ethyl alcohol into the filter cake to precipitate, filtering, washing the filter cake with methanol, and drying the filter cake at 50 ℃ for 12 hours to obtain carboxymethyl psyllium seed gum;
(2) 40mL of 0.2wt% whey protein aqueous solution was added to 20mL of 1wt% vitamin E in rapeseed oil solution at 30℃and stirred for 10min; then 20mL of 0.1wt% carboxymethyl plantain seed glue solution is added, the pH value of the solution is regulated to 4 by 10wt% acetic acid aqueous solution, the system is placed in ice bath at 5 ℃ after stirring and reacting for 30min, then 0.15g of transglutaminase is added for reacting for 4h, the mixture is stood for 24h, the supernatant is removed, and then the precipitate is frozen and dried at-25 ℃ for 24h to obtain the vitamin E encapsulated by the whey protein-carboxymethyl plantain seed glue compound.
Example 2
A method for preparing a whitening and moisturizing composition containing amino acid, which comprises the following steps:
s1, mixing 2kg of hydroxymethyl cellulose, 4kg of vitamin E and 5kg of nicotinamide, heating to 85 ℃, and uniformly stirring and mixing to obtain a material A;
s2, mixing 4kg of an amino acid humectant, 5kg of sodium hyaluronate and 66kg of water, heating to 80 ℃, and stirring until the mixture is completely dissolved to obtain a material B;
and S3, pumping the material A and the material B into an emulsifying pot, adding 8kg of scleropolyether, homogenizing for 5min, preserving heat and stirring for 10min, cooling to 40 ℃, adding 3kg of olive leaf extract and 3kg of aloe extract, homogenizing for 4min, and discharging to obtain the whitening and moisturizing composition containing amino acid.
The preparation method of the amino acid humectant comprises the following steps:
1) Soaking clean Morchella with 5 times of water, then placing into a high-pressure pulse wall breaking machine with pressure of 1.0MPa, maintaining for 3min, rapidly releasing pressure, and collecting Morchella discharged from a discharge port;
2) Mixing 2kg of collected Morchella esculenta, 1kg of Ginseng radix and 20kg of water, standing for 30min, homogenizing under 60MPa for 40min to obtain extractive solution, centrifuging for 30min, and collecting supernatant;
3) Adjusting the temperature of the supernatant to 35 ℃ and the pH value to 7.0, adding cellulase with the addition amount of 0.05 percent of the weight of the supernatant, performing ultrasonic extraction for 1h, wherein the extraction temperature is 50 ℃, cooling to 30 ℃ after the extraction is finished, filtering, collecting filtrate, decolorizing the filtrate with active carbon for 1h, evaporating the solvent under reduced pressure, and finally drying at 60 ℃ for 8h to obtain the amino acid humectant.
Example 3
A method for preparing a whitening and moisturizing composition containing amino acid, which comprises the following steps:
s1, mixing 2kg of hydroxymethyl cellulose, 4kg of whey protein-plantain seed gum encapsulated vitamin E and 5kg of nicotinamide, heating to 85 ℃, and stirring and mixing uniformly to obtain a material A;
s2, mixing 4kg of an amino acid humectant, 5kg of sodium hyaluronate and 66kg of water, heating to 80 ℃, and stirring until the mixture is completely dissolved to obtain a material B;
and S3, pumping the material A and the material B into an emulsifying pot, adding 8kg of scleropolyether, homogenizing for 5min, preserving heat and stirring for 10min, cooling to 40 ℃, adding 3kg of olive leaf extract and 3kg of aloe extract, homogenizing for 4min, and discharging to obtain the whitening and moisturizing composition containing amino acid.
The preparation method of the amino acid humectant comprises the following steps:
1) Soaking clean Morchella with 5 times of water, then placing into a high-pressure pulse wall breaking machine with pressure of 1.0MPa, maintaining for 3min, rapidly releasing pressure, and collecting Morchella discharged from a discharge port;
2) Mixing 2kg of collected Morchella esculenta, 1kg of Ginseng radix and 20kg of water, standing for 30min, homogenizing under 60MPa for 40min to obtain extractive solution, centrifuging for 30min, and collecting supernatant;
3) Adjusting the temperature of the supernatant to 35 ℃ and the pH value to 7.0, adding cellulase with the addition amount of 0.05 percent of the weight of the supernatant, performing ultrasonic extraction for 1h, wherein the extraction temperature is 50 ℃, cooling to 30 ℃ after the extraction is finished, filtering, collecting filtrate, decolorizing the filtrate with active carbon for 1h, evaporating the solvent under reduced pressure, and finally drying at 60 ℃ for 8h to obtain the amino acid humectant.
The preparation method of the vitamin E encapsulated by the whey protein-psyllium seed gum compound comprises the following steps:
40ml of 0.2wt% whey protein in water was added to 20ml of 1wt% vitamin E in rapeseed oil solution at 30℃and stirred for 10min; then 20mL of 0.1wt% psyllium seed gum solution is added, the pH value of the solution is regulated to 4 by 10wt% acetic acid aqueous solution, the system is placed in ice bath at 5 ℃ after stirring and reacting for 30min, then 0.15g of transglutaminase is added for reacting for 4h, the mixture is left stand for 24h, the supernatant is removed, and then the precipitate is frozen and dried at-25 ℃ for 24h to obtain the vitamin E encapsulated by the whey protein-psyllium seed gum compound.
Comparative example 1
A method for preparing a whitening and moisturizing composition containing amino acid, which comprises the following steps:
s1, mixing 2kg of hydroxymethyl cellulose, 4kg of vitamin E encapsulated by carboxymethyl psyllium seed gum and 5kg of nicotinamide, heating to 85 ℃, and stirring and mixing uniformly to obtain a material A;
s2, mixing 4kg of an amino acid humectant, 5kg of sodium hyaluronate and 66kg of water, heating to 80 ℃, and stirring until the mixture is completely dissolved to obtain a material B;
and S3, pumping the material A and the material B into an emulsifying pot, adding 8kg of scleropolyether, homogenizing for 5min, preserving heat and stirring for 10min, cooling to 40 ℃, adding 3kg of olive leaf extract and 3kg of aloe extract, homogenizing for 4min, and discharging to obtain the whitening and moisturizing composition containing amino acid.
The preparation method of the amino acid humectant comprises the following steps:
1) Soaking clean Morchella with 5 times of water, then placing into a high-pressure pulse wall breaking machine with pressure of 1.0MPa, maintaining for 3min, rapidly releasing pressure, and collecting Morchella discharged from a discharge port;
2) Mixing 2kg of collected Morchella esculenta, 1kg of Ginseng radix and 20kg of water, standing for 30min, homogenizing under 60MPa for 40min to obtain extractive solution, centrifuging for 30min, and collecting supernatant;
3) Adjusting the temperature of the supernatant to 35 ℃ and the pH value to 7.0, adding cellulase with the addition amount of 0.05 percent of the weight of the supernatant, performing ultrasonic extraction for 1h, wherein the extraction temperature is 50 ℃, cooling to 30 ℃ after the extraction is finished, filtering, collecting filtrate, decolorizing the filtrate with active carbon for 1h, evaporating the solvent under reduced pressure, and finally drying at 60 ℃ for 8h to obtain the amino acid humectant.
The preparation method of the vitamin E encapsulated by the carboxymethyl psyllium seed gum comprises the following steps:
(1) 10g of plantain seed gum, 60mL of 3mol/L aqueous sodium hydroxide solution and 230mL of 99wt% aqueous ethanol solution are mixed at 30 ℃ and stirred for 30min; 50g of monochloroacetic acid is added and stirred for 20min to obtain a mixed solution; heating the mixed solution to 60 ℃ for reaction for 12 hours; cooling to 30 ℃, filtering, dissolving a filter cake with water of which the mass is 5 times that of the filter cake, adding absolute ethyl alcohol into the filter cake to precipitate, filtering, washing the filter cake with methanol, and drying the filter cake at 50 ℃ for 12 hours to obtain carboxymethyl psyllium seed gum;
(2) 60mL of 0.1wt% carboxymethyl psyllium seed gum aqueous solution is added into 20mL of 1wt% vitamin E-containing rapeseed oil solution at 30 ℃, the pH value of the solution is regulated to 4 by 10wt% acetic acid aqueous solution, the system is placed into ice bath at 5 ℃ after stirring reaction for 30min, then 0.15g of transglutaminase is added for reaction for 4h, the mixture is kept stand for 24h, the supernatant is removed, and then the precipitate is frozen and dried at-25 ℃ for 24h to obtain the vitamin E encapsulated by carboxymethyl psyllium seed gum.
Comparative example 2
A method for preparing a whitening and moisturizing composition containing amino acid, which comprises the following steps:
s1, mixing 2kg of hydroxymethyl cellulose, 4kg of whey protein encapsulated vitamin E and 5kg of nicotinamide, heating to 85 ℃, and uniformly stirring and mixing to obtain a material A;
s2, mixing 4kg of an amino acid humectant, 5kg of sodium hyaluronate and 66kg of water, heating to 80 ℃, and stirring until the mixture is completely dissolved to obtain a material B;
and S3, pumping the material A and the material B into an emulsifying pot, adding 8kg of scleropolyether, homogenizing for 5min, preserving heat and stirring for 10min, cooling to 40 ℃, adding 3kg of olive leaf extract and 3kg of aloe extract, homogenizing for 4min, and discharging to obtain the whitening and moisturizing composition containing amino acid.
The preparation method of the amino acid humectant comprises the following steps:
1) Soaking clean Morchella with 5 times of water, then placing into a high-pressure pulse wall breaking machine with pressure of 1.0MPa, maintaining for 3min, rapidly releasing pressure, and collecting Morchella discharged from a discharge port;
2) Mixing 2kg of collected Morchella esculenta, 1kg of Ginseng radix and 20kg of water, standing for 30min, homogenizing under 60MPa for 40min to obtain extractive solution, centrifuging for 30min, and collecting supernatant;
3) Adjusting the temperature of the supernatant to 35 ℃ and the pH value to 7.0, adding cellulase with the addition amount of 0.05 percent of the weight of the supernatant, performing ultrasonic extraction for 1h, wherein the extraction temperature is 50 ℃, cooling to 30 ℃ after the extraction is finished, filtering, collecting filtrate, decolorizing the filtrate with active carbon for 1h, evaporating the solvent under reduced pressure, and finally drying at 60 ℃ for 8h to obtain the amino acid humectant.
The preparation method of the whey protein encapsulated vitamin E comprises the following steps:
60mL of 0.2wt% whey protein aqueous solution was added to 20mL of 1wt% vitamin E in rapeseed oil solution at 30℃and stirred for 10min; adjusting the pH value of the solution to 4 by using 10wt% acetic acid aqueous solution, stirring and reacting for 30min, placing the system in an ice bath at 5 ℃, then adding 0.15g of transglutaminase, standing for 24h after reacting for 4h, removing the supernatant, and then freeze-drying the precipitate at-25 ℃ for 24h to obtain the whey protein-encapsulated vitamin E.
Test example 1
DPPH radical scavenging test:
the test subjects were the whitening and moisturizing compositions containing amino acids prepared in examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-2; the reagent is 1, 1-diphenyl-2-trinitrophenylhydrazine (DPPH) and absolute ethyl alcohol; preparation of DPPH: accurately weighing 20mg DPPH, and fixing the volume to 250mL by using 95wt% absolute ethyl alcohol for standby; preparing a sample to be tested: 20mg of the wrinkle-removing and anti-aging compositions prepared in examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-2 were respectively taken, and the volume was fixed to 250mL with a 99.9wt% aqueous ethanol solution for use.
The testing steps comprise placing 2mL of prepared test sample and 2mL of DPPH solution in a test tube with a plug, placing in a constant temperature box, keeping the temperature at 37 ℃ for 1h, taking 99.9wt% ethanol water solution as blank control, and measuring absorbance A of each test sample in an ultraviolet spectrophotometer at wavelength of 517nm i And calculating the clearance rate according to the following formula: clearance = [1- (A) i -A j )/A c ]×100%
A c Absorbance was 2mL of 99.9wt% aqueous ethanol solution plus 2mL DPPH solution;
A i adding 2mL of DPPH solution to 2mL of the reagent to be detected;
A j 2mL of 99.9wt% ethanol aqueous solution absorbance is added to 2mL of the reagent to be detected;
three groups of parallel samples are measured for each sample to be tested, the average value is calculated, and the test results are shown in table 1:
table 1: DPPH radical scavenging test results
Radical scavenging rate (%)
Example 1 92.34
Example 2 82.64
Example 3 88.28
Comparative example 1 86.42
Comparative example 2 86.67
The higher the DPPH radical scavenging rate, the better the antioxidant effect of the cosmetic. From the experimental data in table 1, it can be seen that the whitening and moisturizing composition containing amino acid prepared in example 1 has optimal oxidation resistance, can better resist free radicals, and can inhibit skin lipid peroxidation caused by free radicals. However, the difference between the example 1 and other examples and comparative examples is that vitamin E encapsulated by the whey protein-carboxymethyl psyllium seed gum complex is added, and the possible reason is that the encapsulated vitamin E has better stability, can be more stably stored in cosmetics, can be slowly released in the skin after being absorbed by the skin, and can better exert the antioxidation function; in addition, the encapsulated vitamin E improves the emulsifying property, can better ensure that each component is uniformly dispersed in a system and is better absorbed by skin, and the components synergistically improve the antioxidation effect of the product.
Test example 2
And (3) moisture preservation effect test:
the amino acid-containing whitening and moisturizing compositions prepared in examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 2 were tested for moisturizing performance in an environment at 22 ℃ and a relative humidity of 60% by referring to the standard QB/T4256-2011 cosmetic moisturizing efficacy evaluation guidelines. The results are shown in Table 3.
Table 2: moisture retention test results
From the experimental results in table 2, it can be seen that the moisturizing effect of the whitening and moisturizing composition containing amino acid prepared in example 1 is best, probably because the vitamin E encapsulated by the whey protein-carboxymethyl psyllium seed gum has higher stability, can be slowly released in the skin after being absorbed by the skin, reduces peroxidation of lipid and lipoprotein on the cell membrane to protect normal functions of the cells, better maintains moisture in the skin, and meanwhile, the encapsulating material has emulsifying property, can stabilize the oil-water interface, is beneficial to better penetrating the moisturizing active ingredient into the lipid bilayer, promotes percutaneous absorption, increases the moisture content of the horny layer, and improves the moisturizing effect of the composition.

Claims (6)

1. The whitening and moisturizing composition containing amino acid is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by mass: 0.1-3% olive leaf extract, 0.1-3% aloe extract, 5-10% emulsifier, 2-5% amino acid humectant, 0.5-3% thickener, 3-5% vitamin E encapsulated by whey protein-carboxymethyl psyllium seed gum complex, 3-5% sodium hyaluronate, 5-8% nicotinamide, and the balance water;
the preparation method of the amino acid humectant comprises the following steps:
1) Soaking clean Morchella with 3-5 times of water, then placing into a high pressure pulse wall breaking machine with pressure of 0.5-2.0MPa, maintaining for 1-10min, rapidly releasing pressure, and collecting Morchella discharged from a discharge opening;
2) Mixing and standing the collected Morchella esculenta, ginseng radix and water for 20-30min, homogenizing under 40-100MPa for 30-50min to obtain extractive solution, centrifuging the extractive solution, and collecting supernatant;
3) Regulating the temperature of the supernatant to 30-37 ℃ and the pH value to 6.5-8.0, adding cellulase into the supernatant, carrying out ultrasonic extraction for 1-2h, wherein the extraction temperature is 45-55 ℃, cooling to 20-30 ℃ after the extraction is finished, filtering, collecting filtrate, decolorizing the filtrate with active carbon for 1-1.5h, then decompressing and evaporating the solvent, and finally drying at 60-80 ℃ for 6-8h to obtain the amino acid humectant;
the preparation method of the vitamin E encapsulated by the whey protein-carboxymethyl psyllium seed gum compound comprises the following steps:
adding 0.1-0.3wt% whey protein water solution into rapeseed oil solution containing 1-2wt% vitamin E at 20-40deg.C, stirring for 5-10min; then adding 0.1-0.3wt% of carboxymethyl plantain seed glue solution, regulating the pH value of the solution to 3.5-5.5 by using 10-20wt% of acetic acid aqueous solution, stirring and reacting for 10-30min, placing the system in an ice bath at 0-5 ℃, adding transglutaminase, reacting for 3-4h, standing for 20-24h, removing supernatant, and freeze-drying the precipitate at-20 to-25 ℃ for 20-24h to obtain the vitamin E encapsulated by the whey protein-carboxymethyl plantain seed glue compound;
the preparation method of the carboxymethyl psyllium seed gum comprises the following steps:
mixing semen plantaginis gum, 1-3mol/L sodium hydroxide aqueous solution, and 90-99wt% ethanol aqueous solution at 20-40deg.C, and stirring for 10-30min; adding monochloroacetic acid, and stirring for 10-30min to obtain mixed solution; heating the mixed solution to 50-80 ℃ for reaction for 10-12h; cooling to 20-40deg.C, filtering, dissolving the filter cake with 3-5 times of water, adding absolute ethanol, precipitating, filtering, washing the filter cake with methanol, and drying at 40-60deg.C for 10-12 hr to obtain carboxymethyl semen plantaginis gum.
2. The amino acid-containing whitening and moisturizing composition as set forth in claim 1, wherein: the emulsifier is one or two or more of the mixture of the hard ester alcohol polyether, the triethanolamine and the laureth sodium sulfate; the thickener is one or two or more of xanthan gum, acacia, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and carbomer.
3. The amino acid-containing whitening and moisturizing composition as set forth in claim 1, wherein: the mass ratio of Morchella esculenta to ginseng to water in the step 2) is 2-4:1-2:30-60.
4. The amino acid-containing whitening and moisturizing composition as set forth in claim 1, wherein: the addition amount of the cellulase in the step 3) is 0.01% -0.05% of the weight of the supernatant.
5. The method for preparing the whitening and moisturizing composition containing amino acids according to any one of claims 1 to 4, comprising the following steps:
s1, weighing raw materials according to a formula, mixing a thickener, vitamin E encapsulated by a whey protein-carboxymethyl psyllium seed gum compound and nicotinamide, heating to 70-85 ℃, and uniformly stirring and mixing to obtain a material A;
s2, mixing an amino acid humectant, sodium hyaluronate and water, heating to 70-85 ℃, and stirring until the mixture is completely dissolved to obtain a material B;
s3, pumping the material A and the material B into an emulsifying device, adding an emulsifying agent, homogenizing for 3-8min, preserving heat and stirring for 15-20min, then cooling to 40-45 ℃, adding olive leaf extract and aloe extract, homogenizing for 3-5min, and discharging to obtain the whitening and moisturizing composition containing amino acid.
6. The use of the amino acid-containing whitening and moisturizing composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 in cosmetics, wherein: and mixing the whitening and moisturizing composition containing amino acid with a preservative, essence, a conditioner and a surfactant to obtain the cosmetic with whitening and moisturizing effects.
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CN114191364A (en) * 2021-12-29 2022-03-18 孙宁 Process for preparing moisturizing and whitening emulsion and product thereof
CN114225007A (en) * 2021-11-09 2022-03-25 西安润玉医疗科技有限公司 Whey protein spray for repairing superficial wound and preparation method thereof

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