CN114432225A

CN114432225A - Sunscreen skin care product and preparation method thereof

Info

Publication number: CN114432225A
Application number: CN202210171070.8A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 吴志杰
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 2022-02-23
Filing date: 2022-02-23
Publication date: 2022-05-06

Abstract

The invention discloses a sunscreen skin care product and a preparation method thereof, wherein the sunscreen skin care product is prepared from the following raw materials: deionized water, glycerol, nicotinamide, malic acid, honey, jojoba oil, synthetic squalane, water-soluble ceramide, vitamin E, xanthan gum, disodium edetate, preservative, hydrogenated lecithin, a traditional Chinese medicine essence extract and an ultraviolet absorbent, wherein the traditional Chinese medicine essence extract is prepared from ligusticum wallichii, liquorice, chinaroot greenbrier rhizome, cotton rose hibiscus leaves and leonurus, and the ultraviolet absorbent is a mixture of nano-cellulose modified ferulic acid, modified ellagic acid and calcium lignosulphonate. The sunscreen skin care product prepared by the invention reduces the acidity of the ultraviolet absorbent through the interaction of chromophoric compounds in calcium lignosulfonate, thereby improving the SPF value of the product and having excellent sunscreen effect.

Description

Sunscreen skin care product and preparation method thereof

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a sunscreen skin care product and a preparation method thereof.

Background

Sunscreen creams have become increasingly popular in order to protect the skin from sunburn, photoaging and photoaging. However, the efficacy and safety of most sunscreen compositions is affected by their photostability, toxicity and damage to the ecosystem. Thus, natural sunscreen ingredients are attracting great attention. The conjugated system of natural sunscreen ingredients plays an important role in protecting important genetic material in the body. Compared with artificial sunscreen cream, natural ingredients exert their photoprotective effects such as improving skin elasticity and moisture, optimizing skin texture and wrinkles by their antioxidant effect and regulating ultraviolet-induced skin inflammation, barrier damage and aging; however, although natural sunscreen creams have a strong ultraviolet absorption ability, they are largely limited due to their low specific extinction values, making them difficult to apply on a large scale in the field of sunscreen cream cosmetics.

Patent CN 113350210A discloses a waterproof sunscreen skin care product and a preparation method thereof, wherein a sunscreen cream is prepared from a chemical sunscreen agent, a physical sunscreen agent, an anti-inflammatory agent, a film-forming agent, a humectant, alcohol, an emulsifier, arginine, a carrier and deionized water, and the obtained sunscreen skin care product has the advantages of good sunscreen effect, stable product property, excellent waterproof effect, difficult skin sensitization and the like. Patent CN 107260620A provides a sunscreen skin care product and a preparation method thereof, which has a broad spectrum absorption effect on UVA/UVB by adding sophora flower bud extract and aloe extract. None of the above patents optimizes the acidity of the additive, and there is a problem that the sun protection factor is lowered and the sun protection effect is difficult to be exerted in practical use.

Disclosure of Invention

Aiming at the defects in the prior art, the invention aims to provide the sunscreen skin care product which has good permeability and high skin absorption rate, can whiten the skin, improve the skin state, moisturize the skin for a long time and prevent ultraviolet rays.

In order to achieve the above purpose, the invention is realized by the following technical scheme:

a sunscreen skin care product comprises the following raw materials: water, glycerol, nicotinamide, malic acid, honey, jojoba oil, synthetic squalane, water-soluble ceramide, vitamin E, xanthan gum, disodium edetate, antiseptic, hydrogenated lecithin, traditional Chinese medicine essence extract, and ultraviolet absorbent.

The invention adopts the synergistic effect of a plurality of effective components to achieve the effects of whitening and moisturizing, the nicotinamide is one member of a vitamin family, particularly the amide of nicotinic acid (microorganism B3), the molecule of the nicotinamide is small and has certain lipid solubility, the nicotinamide is easy to penetrate through the horny layer and be absorbed by cells, the nicotinamide can inhibit melanosomes from moving to the horny cells, and the nicotinamide can accelerate the falling off of the horny cells containing melanin so as to achieve the whitening effect.

Malic acid is an organic acid, which can achieve the purpose of whitening by accelerating the metabolism of keratinocytes. Vitamin E is a fat-soluble vitamin which is easily absorbed by cells through the horny layer, can irreversibly reduce melanin, and can inhibit the synthesis of the melanin by removing free radicals so as to achieve the whitening effect. Disodium ethylene diamine tetraacetate is a chelating agent, and can achieve the whitening effect by chelating metal ions in tyrosinase and enabling tyrosinase to lose catalytic activity, thereby blocking the synthesis path of melanin.

The hydrogenated lecithin enables partial hydrolysate of lecithin, improves the hydrophilic capacity of the hydrogenated lecithin, has a certain moisturizing effect, can be absorbed by human skin, can promote the permeation of other nutrient substances, enhances the effect of effective components in the skin care product, has strong emulsifying performance, can stabilize emulsion, has a certain antioxidant function, and ensures that the effective components in the skin care product do not lose efficacy due to oxidation.

The water-soluble ceramide is different from other ceramides, the others are not water-soluble, and only one kind of grease for enhancing the skin barrier function has a stronger osmosis effect, the neuraminic acid enables the main component of the stratum corneum lipid to be 40-50% of the stratum corneum lipid, the net structure can be strengthened to lock the moisture of the stratum corneum, the stratum corneum barrier can be repaired at the same time, and the purpose of long-acting moisture preservation is achieved. Honey is a natural moisture absorbent, and can absorb moisture in air to achieve the effect of moisturizing. Jojoba oil is oil extracted from seeds of jojoba, and has good permeability, because the chemical molecular arrangement of the jojoba oil is very similar to sebum of human beings, the jojoba oil is very easy to be classified and absorbed by skin, contains abundant vitamin D and protein, is good moistening and moisturizing oil, can increase skin moisture, and prevents wrinkles and aging. The synthetic squalane is synthesized by isoprene, has the similar property with squalane, is lipid which is most close to sebum of a human body, has strong affinity, can be integrated with a skin lipid membrane of the human body, forms a layer of natural barrier on the surface of the skin, can inhibit the peroxidation of skin lipid, can effectively permeate into the skin, promotes the proliferation of basal cells of the skin, has obvious effect on delaying skin aging, and can play a long-acting sealing and moisturizing effect.

The xanthan gum is a microbial extracellular polysaccharide with wide effects produced by fermentation engineering of xanthomonas campestris (Xanthomonas campestris) by taking carbohydrate as a main raw material (such as corn starch), is a biogel which integrates thickening, suspending, emulsifying and stabilizing into a whole and has the best performance internationally at present, and can effectively improve the stability and the use texture of a skin care product.

Preferably, the preservative is sodium benzoate or potassium sorbate.

Preferably, the traditional Chinese medicine essence extract is prepared by extracting ligusticum wallichii, liquorice, chinaroot greenbrier rhizome, cotton rose hibiscus leaves and motherwort according to the mass ratio of (2-6) - (1-3) - (2-6).

Preferably, the traditional Chinese medicine essence extract is prepared by the following steps:

s1, mixing the raw materials for preparing the traditional Chinese medicine essence extract according to a proportion, crushing the mixture by using a crusher, sieving the crushed mixture by using a 30-40-mesh sieve to obtain crushed raw materials, sealing the crushed raw materials in a plastic bag, and placing the plastic bag in a cool and dry place for later use;

s2, fully mixing the crushed raw materials with water according to the dosage ratio of 1g (8-12) mL to obtain a mixed solution 1, carrying out ultrasonic extraction on the mixed solution 1 at 10-25 ℃ for 20-30 min, wherein the ultrasonic power is 250-400W, and the ultrasonic frequency is 20-40 kHz; filtering the mixed solution 1 after extraction is finished, repeating the operation for 2-3 times on filter residues, collecting the filter residues filtered at the last time, and combining the filtrate obtained by each filtration to obtain a water extract for later use;

s3, fully mixing the filter residue obtained in the last filtration in the step S2 with 70-75% by volume of ethanol water solution according to the dosage ratio of 1g to (8-12) mL to obtain a mixed solution 2, and carrying out ultrasonic extraction on the mixed solution 2 at 10-25 ℃ for 20-30 min, wherein the ultrasonic power is 250-300W, and the ultrasonic frequency is 20-40 kHz; filtering the mixed solution 2 after extraction is finished, repeating the operation for 2-3 times on filter residues, and combining filtrate obtained by filtering each time to obtain an alcohol extract for later use;

s4, combining the water extract and the alcohol extract obtained in the steps S2 and S3 to obtain an extracting solution; concentrating the extracting solution under reduced pressure to 1/6-1/4 of the volume of the original filtrate to obtain concentrated filtrate;

s5, freeze-drying the concentrated filtrate obtained in the step S4 at the temperature of between 40 ℃ below zero and 45 ℃ below zero for 24 to 48 hours to obtain the traditional Chinese medicine essence extract.

Chuan Xiong is a dried rhizome of Ligusticum chuanxiong belonging to the genus Ligusticum of the family Umbelliferae, and is commonly used Chinese herbal medicine, which was recorded in Shen nong Ben Cao Jing. The traditional Chinese medicine considers that the ligusticum wallichii has the whitening effect, and the whitening record of the ligusticum wallichii has been recorded in ancient times. As for Gu jin Yi Jian, Chuan Xiong, Ye Lian, Dang Gui, Yao Zao and Bai Zhi are used to brush teeth in the morning, which can strengthen teeth and blacken beard. For example, Chuan Xiong, Bai Zhi, gan Cao, Gui Zhi (removing coarse bark) and Du xi Pi are taken orally in Sheng Ji Zong Lu, and the body is fragrant for thirty days. Chuan Xiong is decocted in water for its action and smells fragrant. As can be seen from the above records of the herbal materials, Chuan Xiong has been used for tooth-beautifying, hair-dressing and body-perfuming in ancient times.

The Glycyrrhrizae radix is root and rhizome of Glycyrrhiza uralensis of Leguminosae of dicotyledon. According to ancient traditional Chinese medicine, liquorice has the effects of tonifying spleen and qi, clearing heat and removing toxicity, eliminating phlegm and stopping cough, relieving spasm and pain and harmonizing the medicines.

The white Poria is a white and compact part in a dry sclerotium of the fungus Poria cocos cos of the family Polyporaceae, and the ancient person is called as a four-season Shen medicament, because the white Poria has very wide efficacy and is not divided into four seasons, the white Poria is compatible with various medicaments, and the white Poria can play unique efficacy regardless of cold, warm, wind and damp diseases.

Folium Hibisci Mutabilis is leaf of Hibiscus mutabilis of Malvaceae, and has effects of cooling blood, removing toxic substance, relieving swelling and pain. It is indicated for carbuncle, deep-rooted carbuncle, swelling-sticking swelling, scald, conjunctival congestion, swelling and pain, and traumatic injury. Ben Cao gang mu records that clearing lung-heat and cooling blood, and clearing heat and removing toxicity. It is indicated for all kinds of ulcers, swelling, toxin and sores, and has the actions of dispersing swelling, draining pus and alleviating pain.

Herba Leonuri is fresh or dried aerial parts of Leonurus japonicus of Labiatae. Has effects in promoting blood circulation, dispelling blood stasis, regulating menstruation, and eliminating water. Treating menoxenia, vaginal bleeding during pregnancy, puerperal diseases such as leukorrhagia, blood faint, abdominal pain due to blood stasis, metrorrhagia, hematuria, hemorrhage, carbuncle, swelling, and pyocutaneous disease.

Preferably, the ultraviolet absorbent is one or a mixture of two or more of ferulic acid, nano-cellulose modified ferulic acid, ellagic acid and modified ellagic acid.

The preparation method of the nano-cellulose modified ferulic acid comprises the following steps:

m1 adding 1-4 g of ferulic acid, 0.1-0.5 g of 1-ethyl- (3-dimethylaminopropyl) carbodiimide (EDC) and 0.01-0.05 g N-hydroxysuccinimide (NHS) into 100-200 mL of water, ultrasonically dispersing for 15-30 min, reacting for 2-5 h at 30-50 ℃, and obtaining a carboxylic acid activated ferulic acid aqueous solution after the reaction is finished;

m2 adding 2-5 g of nano-cellulose into the carboxyl activated ferulic acid aqueous solution obtained in the step M1, performing ultrasonic dispersion for 10-20 min, reacting for 3-6 h at 30-50 ℃, centrifuging for 10-20 min after the reaction is finished, pouring out supernatant to obtain a product, washing the product with water for 2-3 times, then washing with ethanol for 2-3 times, and performing vacuum drying on the product obtained by the last washing at 40-60 ℃ to obtain the nano-cellulose modified ferulic acid.

The preparation method of the modified ellagic acid comprises the following steps: dissolving 10-20 g of hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin in 25-50 mL of water to obtain a hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin solution, dispersing 5-10 g of ellagic acid in 20-30 mL of absolute ethanol to obtain an ellagic acid ethanol solution, adding the ellagic acid ethanol solution into the hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin solution, carrying out ultrasonic treatment for 20-30 min, stirring at 20-30 ℃ for 12-20 h, and drying the reaction solution at 60-80 ℃ for 12-24 h after the reaction is finished to obtain the modified ellagic acid.

Further preferably, the ultraviolet absorbent is a mixture of 1-3: 1-3 of mixing of nano-cellulose modified ferulic acid and modified ellagic acid.

The ultraviolet absorber has a good ultraviolet absorption effect, however, in practical application, because the acidity and the peroxide content of the ultraviolet absorber are still high, the sunscreen effect needs to be further optimized. For this reason, the inventors made improvements to the ultraviolet absorber; the inventor combines calcium lignosulfonate with nanocellulose modified ferulic acid and modified ellagic acid, and reduces acidity of the ultraviolet absorbent through interaction of chromophoric compounds in the calcium lignosulfonate, so that the aim of increasing the SPF value of the product is fulfilled.

Further preferably, the ultraviolet absorbent can be prepared by the following method: and (2) mixing the following components in a mass ratio of 1-3: 1-3: 0.08-0.16 of nano-cellulose modified ferulic acid, modified ellagic acid and calcium lignosulphonate are dissolved in water at the temperature of 55-65 ℃ under the shading condition; wherein the mass ratio of the total mass of the nano-cellulose modified ferulic acid, the modified ellagic acid and the calcium lignosulphonate to the mass of the water is 1: 45-60 parts of; mixing at the speed of 600-900 rpm for 4-6 h, filtering to obtain filtrate, and freeze-drying to obtain the ultraviolet absorbent.

Ferulic acid is a phenolic acid widely existing in the plant world, has super-strong oxidation resistance, free radical scavenging effect and ultraviolet absorption capacity, has whitening, freckle removing and sun-screening effects, but has poor water solubility, so that ferulic acid is not easy to absorb, and the use of the ferulic acid in a water-based skin care product is limited. The nano-cellulose modified ferulic acid used by the invention has good dispersibility in water due to the excellent water dispersibility of the nano-cellulose, so that the ferulic acid is more stably existed in a skin care product, and meanwhile, the ferulic acid is more easily absorbed by the skin to play a role due to the good biocompatibility and hydrophilicity of the nano-cellulose, and the ferulic acid has the effects of inhibiting activities of melanocytes and tyrosinase besides good ultraviolet absorption capacity.

Ferulic acid has good ultraviolet absorption on the wave bands of UVA and UVB, but has poor ultraviolet absorption capacity on the wave band of UVC, and in order to endow the skin care product with the capacity of preventing full-wave band ultraviolet, the invention also adds ellagic acid which is a polyphenol dilactone, is a dimeric derivative of gallic acid, has strong ultraviolet absorption capacity, and simultaneously has the efficacies of whitening and resisting oxidation, but is almost insoluble in water, thereby influencing the application. According to the invention, ellagic acid is included by hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin, so that the water solubility, the physical and chemical stability and the bioavailability of ellagic acid are greatly improved, the ellagic acid is easier to be absorbed by skin, and the ellagic acid and added nano-cellulose modified ferulic acid perform synergistic action to achieve the effect of full-waveband ultraviolet absorption; the combination of the two increases the ultraviolet absorption capacity, and the nano-cellulose modified ferulic acid can also enhance the anti-oxidation whitening effect of ellagic acid, improve the chemical stability of ellagic acid in the system and achieve better whitening effect.

Preferably, the sunscreen skin care product consists of the following raw materials in parts by weight: 60-75 parts of water, 4-10 parts of glycerol, 1-2 parts of nicotinamide, 0.1-1 part of malic acid, 1-2 parts of honey, 2-6 parts of jojoba oil, 1-4 parts of synthetic squalane, 2-6 parts of water-soluble ceramide, 0.5-2 parts of vitamin E, 0.1-0.5 part of xanthan gum, 0.1-0.5 part of disodium ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid, 0.1-0.5 part of preservative, 2-5 parts of hydrogenated lecithin, 5-10 parts of traditional Chinese medicine essence extract and 1-3 parts of ultraviolet absorbent.

The invention also provides a preparation method of the sunscreen skin care product, which comprises the following steps:

n1 adding water, malic acid, honey, xanthan gum, disodium ethylene diamine tetraacetate, preservative and hydrogenated lecithin into a stirrer, and stirring for 25-40 min at 50-70 ℃ to obtain a mixture A;

n2 adding glycerol, nicotinamide, jojoba oil, synthetic squalane, aqueous solution ceramide, vitamin E and ultraviolet absorbent into a stirrer, and stirring at 50-70 ℃ for 25-40 min to obtain a mixture B;

n3 placing the mixture A and the mixture B into an emulsifying and homogenizing device, homogenizing for 15-30 s, cooling, adding the traditional Chinese medicine essence extract, and stirring for 10-20 min to obtain an emulsion C;

n4 homogenizing the emulsion C in an ultrahigh pressure homogenizer under a pressure of 150-200 MPa for 3-5 min to obtain the sunscreen skin care product.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that:

1. the invention achieves better whitening effect by acting on each stage of melanin generation and transfer, integrates the functions of repair, water supplement, water locking and sun protection, and can achieve the purpose of long-acting moisture preservation.

2. According to the invention, the essence extracts of various traditional Chinese medicines are added, and the whitening and moisturizing effects of the skin care product are further enhanced through the synergistic effect of various active ingredients and other additives, and meanwhile, the traditional Chinese medicine essence extracts are extracted by low-temperature ultrasonic extraction, so that the loss of effective ingredients in the extraction process is avoided, and a better effect is obtained.

3. The nano-cellulose modified ferulic acid and the modified ellagic acid prepared by the method improve the dispersibility, the physicochemical stability and the bioavailability of the ferulic acid and the ellagic acid in the skin care product, simultaneously the full-wave-band ultraviolet ray resistance is obtained by the synergistic effect of the ferulic acid and the ellagic acid, the ferulic acid is also an active auxiliary agent of the ellagic acid, the vitamin E and the antioxidant whitening component in the traditional Chinese medicine extract in the skin care product, and the better whitening and moisturizing effects are achieved by the synergistic effect.

4. According to the invention, calcium lignosulfonate is combined with nano-cellulose modified ferulic acid and modified ellagic acid, and the acidity of the ultraviolet absorbent is reduced through the interaction of chromophore compounds in the calcium lignosulfonate, so that the sun-screening effect of the skin care product is improved.

Detailed Description

The specific parameters of some substances and instruments in the embodiment of the invention are as follows:

ligusticum wallichii: dried rhizome of Ligusticum chuanxiong belonging to Umbelliferae, Ligusticum chuanxiong, has pungent and warm taste, and enters liver, gallbladder and pericardium channels, and has the main functions of promoting blood circulation and activating qi-flowing, dispelling pathogenic wind and relieving pain, and producing Sichuan lovage.

Licorice root: root and rhizome of Glycyrrhiza uralensis of Leguminosae family of dicotyledonous plants. Sweet in flavor, entering stomach, lung and spleen channels, has the main functions of tonifying spleen and qi, clearing away heat and toxic materials, eliminating phlegm and stopping cough, relieving spasm and pain, harmonizing the drugs in the recipe and producing sweet and descending.

White poria: the dry sclerotium of Poria coco of Polyporaceae has white and dense part, light and flat taste, and has effects of invigorating spleen, lung and kidney channels, eliminating dampness and promoting diuresis, strengthening spleen and stomach, calming heart and tranquilizing mind, and is produced in Hubei province.

And (3) cotton rose leaf: the leaves of Hibiscus mutabilis of Malvaceae are pungent and mild in taste, enter lung and liver meridians, and have the main functions of cooling blood, detoxifying, reducing swelling and relieving pain, and are produced in Hubei province.

Motherwort: fresh or dried aerial parts of Leonurus japonicus of Labiatae, with good taste and bitter taste, enter liver and pericardium channels, and have effects of promoting blood circulation, removing blood stasis, regulating menstruation, and eliminating water, and is of Gansu origin.

The nano-cellulose has a width of 10-50 nm and a length of 0.5-3 μm, and is available from the Biotechnology Limited of the scientific and scientific section of Han dynasty, Wuhan dynasty.

Ferulic acid with purity of 98% or more was purchased from Shanghai leaf Biotech limited.

Ellagic acid with purity of 96% or more is purchased from Shanghai leaf Biotech Co.

Example 1

A sunscreen skin care product comprises the following steps:

n1 adding 75 parts of deionized water, 0.5 part of malic acid, 2 parts of honey, 0.4 part of xanthan gum, 0.2 part of disodium ethylene diamine tetraacetate, 0.2 part of potassium sorbate and 4 parts of hydrogenated lecithin into a stirrer, and stirring at 60 ℃ for 30min to obtain a mixture A;

n2 adding 8 parts of glycerol, 2 parts of nicotinamide, 5 parts of jojoba oil, 3 parts of synthetic squalane, 5 parts of aqueous solution ceramide, 1 part of vitamin E and 3 parts of ultraviolet absorbent into a stirrer, and stirring for 30min at 60 ℃ to obtain a mixture B;

n3 placing mixture A and mixture B into emulsifying and homogenizing device, homogenizing for 15s, cooling, adding 8 parts of Chinese medicinal essence extract, and stirring for 15min to obtain emulsion C;

n4 homogenizing the emulsion C in an ultrahigh pressure homogenizer under 180Mpa for 4min to obtain sunscreen skin care product.

The traditional Chinese medicine essence extract is prepared by the following steps:

s1, mixing rhizoma ligustici wallichii, liquorice, chinaroot greenbrier rhizome, cotton rose hibiscus leaves and motherwort according to the mass ratio of 2:1:1.5:2:2, crushing by using a crusher, sieving by using a 40-mesh sieve to obtain crushed raw materials, sealing in a plastic bag, and placing in a cool and dry place for later use;

s2, fully mixing the crushed raw materials with water according to the dosage ratio of 1g:10mL to obtain a mixed solution 1, and performing ultrasonic extraction on the mixed solution 1 at 15 ℃ for 30min, wherein the ultrasonic power is 300W and the ultrasonic frequency is 20 kHz; filtering the mixed solution 1 after extraction is finished, repeating the operation for 3 times on filter residues, collecting the filter residues filtered at the last time, and combining the filtrate obtained by each filtration to obtain a water extract for later use;

s3, fully mixing the filter residue obtained in the last filtration in the step S2 with 75% by volume of ethanol water solution according to the dosage ratio of 1g to 10mL to obtain a mixed solution 2, and carrying out ultrasonic extraction on the mixed solution 2 at 15 ℃ for 30min, wherein the ultrasonic power is 300W, and the ultrasonic frequency is 20 kHz; filtering the mixed solution 2 after extraction, repeating the above operation for 3 times on filter residues, and combining the filtrate obtained by each filtration to obtain an alcohol extract for later use;

s4, combining the water extract and the alcohol extract obtained in the steps S2 and S3 to obtain an extract; concentrating the extractive solution under reduced pressure to 1/6 volume of the original filtrate to obtain concentrated filtrate;

s5 freeze-drying the concentrated filtrate obtained in the step S4 at-45 ℃ for 48 hours to obtain a traditional Chinese medicine essence extract;

the ultraviolet absorbent is prepared from the following components in percentage by mass of 3: 1, mixing the nano-cellulose modified ferulic acid and the modified ellagic acid;

m1 adding 2g of ferulic acid, 0.6g of 1-ethyl- (3-dimethylaminopropyl) carbodiimide and 0.02g N-hydroxysuccinimide into 150mL of water, ultrasonically dispersing for 15min, reacting for 5h at 40 ℃, and obtaining a ferulic acid aqueous solution activated by carboxyl after the reaction is finished;

m2, adding 4g of nano cellulose into the carboxylic group activated ferulic acid aqueous solution obtained in the step M1, performing ultrasonic dispersion for 20min, reacting for 6h at 4 ℃, centrifuging for 20min after the reaction is finished, pouring out supernatant to obtain a product, washing the product with water for 3 times, then washing with ethanol for 3 times, and performing vacuum drying on the product obtained by the last washing at 40 ℃ to obtain nano cellulose modified ferulic acid;

the preparation method of the modified ellagic acid comprises the following steps: dissolving 16g of hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin in 50mL of water to obtain a hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin solution, dispersing 8g of ellagic acid in 30mL of absolute ethanol to obtain an ellagic acid ethanol solution, adding the ellagic acid ethanol solution into the hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin solution, performing ultrasonic treatment for 30min, stirring at 25 ℃ for 16h, and drying the reaction solution at 60 ℃ for 24h after the reaction is finished to obtain the modified ellagic acid.

Example 2

A sunscreen skin care product comprises the following steps:

n1 adding 75 parts of deionized water, 0.5 part of malic acid, 2 parts of honey, 0.4 part of xanthan gum, 0.2 part of disodium ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid, 0.2 part of potassium sorbate and 4 parts of hydrogenated lecithin into a stirrer, and stirring at 60 ℃ for 30min to obtain a mixture A;

s4, combining the water extract and the alcohol extract obtained in the steps S2 and S3 to obtain an extract; concentrating the extracting solution under reduced pressure to 1/6 corresponding to the volume of the original filtrate to obtain a concentrated filtrate;

the ultraviolet absorbent is ferulic acid.

Example 3

A sunscreen skin care product comprises the following steps:

s1 mixing rhizoma Ligustici Chuanxiong, Glycyrrhrizae radix, Poria, folium Hibisci Mutabilis and herba Leonuri at a mass ratio of 2:1:1.5:2:2, pulverizing with a pulverizer, sieving with a 40 mesh sieve to obtain pulverized raw materials, sealing in a plastic bag, and drying in the shade;

s2, fully mixing the crushed raw materials with water according to the dosage ratio of 1g:10mL to obtain a mixed solution 1, and performing ultrasonic extraction on the mixed solution 1 at 15 ℃ for 30min, wherein the ultrasonic power is 300W and the ultrasonic frequency is 20 kHz; filtering the mixed solution 1 after extraction is finished, repeating the operation for 3 times on filter residues, collecting the filter residues filtered at the last time, and combining the filter liquor obtained by each filtration to obtain water extract for later use;

s3, fully mixing the filter residue obtained in the last filtration in the step S2 with 75% of ethanol water according to the dosage ratio of 1g:10mL to obtain a mixed solution 2, carrying out ultrasonic extraction on the mixed solution 2 at 15 ℃ for 30min, wherein the ultrasonic power is 300W, and the ultrasonic frequency is 20 kHz; filtering the mixed solution 2 after extraction, repeating the above operation for 3 times on filter residues, and combining the filtrate obtained by each filtration to obtain an alcohol extract for later use;

the ultraviolet absorbent is nano-cellulose modified ferulic acid;

m2 adding 4g of nano cellulose into the carboxylic group activated ferulic acid aqueous solution obtained in the step M1, performing ultrasonic dispersion for 20min, reacting for 6h at 4 ℃, centrifuging for 20min after the reaction is finished, pouring out the supernatant to obtain a product, washing the product with water for 3 times, then washing with ethanol for 3 times, and performing vacuum drying on the product obtained by the last washing at 40 ℃ to obtain the nano cellulose modified ferulic acid.

Example 4

A sunscreen skin care product comprises the following steps:

s5 freeze-drying the concentrated filtrate obtained in the step S4 at-45 ℃ for 48h to obtain the traditional Chinese medicine essence extract;

the ultraviolet absorbent is modified ellagic acid;

Example 5

A sunscreen skin care product comprises the following steps:

n3 placing the mixture A and the mixture B into an emulsifying and homogenizing device, homogenizing for 15s, cooling, and stirring for 15min to obtain an emulsion C;

Example 6

A sunscreen skin care product comprises the following steps:

the ultraviolet absorbent is prepared by the following method: and (3) mixing the following components in percentage by mass: 1: 0.12 of nano-cellulose modified ferulic acid, modified ellagic acid and calcium lignosulphonate are dissolved in 65 ℃ water under the shading condition; wherein the mass ratio of the total mass of the nano-cellulose modified ferulic acid, the modified ellagic acid and the calcium lignosulphonate to the mass of the water is 1: 50; mixing at 900rpm for 4h, filtering to obtain filtrate, and freeze drying to obtain the ultraviolet absorbent.

Test example 1

And (3) testing the whitening effect: the inhibition rate of the skin care product on tyrosinase and the clearance rate of DPPH (1, 1-diphenyl-2-trinitrophenylhydrazine) free radicals are used as indexes of the whitening effect of the skin care product.

Inhibition of tyrosinase test: first, 8.0g of the powder is weighed NaCl、0.2g KCl、1.44g Na₂HPO₄、0.24g KH₂PO₄Dissolving in 800mL of distilled water, adjusting the solution to 7.4 by using HCl aqueous solution, and finally adding distilled water to constant volume to 1L to obtain 0.01M PBS buffer solution for later use; accurately weighing tyrosinase, preparing 200U/mL tyrosinase aqueous solution by using the PBS buffer solution, freezing and storing at the temperature of minus 20 ℃, and unfreezing at the temperature of 4 ℃ before use; 3, 4-dihydroxyphenylalanine was dissolved in the PBS buffer to prepare a 1.5mg/mL aqueous solution of 3, 4-dihydroxyphenylalanine. According to each reaction group in the table 1, using a pipette to transfer the reaction solution into a 5mL plastic centrifuge tube with a cover, mixing uniformly, reacting for 10min in a water bath at 37 ℃, adding 1mL of 1.5mg/mL of 3, 4-dihydroxyphenylalanine aqueous solution, mixing uniformly, reacting for 4min in a water bath at 37 ℃, pouring the mixed solution into a cuvette, measuring the absorbance at 475nm at the 5min (using the PBS buffer solution as a blank control), and obtaining A₁、A₂、A₃、A₄. Experiments were performed in triplicate. According to the formula:

inhibition rate (%) [1- (A)₃-A₄)/(A₁-A₂)]×100％

And calculating the inhibition rate of the tested skin care product on tyrosinase.

TABLE 1 composition of enzyme-inhibiting reaction solution

Reaction group	PBS buffer/mL	Skin care product/mL	Tyrosinase in water/mL
				1	1.5	0	0.5
2	2	0	0
				3	1	0.5	0.5
4	1.5	0.5	0

DPPH free radical clearance test: DPPH is accurately weighed, absolute ethyl alcohol is used for preparing a solution of 0.04mg/mL, and the solution is refrigerated and stored at 4 ℃ in a dark place for later use. According to each reaction group in Table 2, the reaction solution was pipetted into a 5mL plastic centrifuge tube with a cover by using a pipette, mixed uniformly, left to stand in the dark for 30min, and the absorbance was measured at 517nm (absolute ethyl alcohol as blank control) to obtain A₁、A₂、A₃. Experiments were performed in parallel 3 times. According to the formula:

clearance (%) - (1- (A)₂-A₃)/A₁]×100％

The DPPH free radical clearance rate of the skin care products to be tested is calculated.

TABLE 2 composition of enzyme-inhibiting reaction solution

Reaction group	DPPH free radical solution/mL	Skin care product/mL	Absolute ethanol/mL
				1	2	0	2
2	2	2	0
				3	0	2	2

The obtained results are shown in table 3.

Table 3 whitening efficacy test results

The results in table 3 show that the inhibition rate of tyrosinase and the removal rate of DPPH free radicals in example 1 are significantly higher than those in other examples, and ferulic acid is directly added in example 2, so that the ferulic acid has low solubility and is not easily dispersed in skin care products, so that the ferulic acid is not uniformly distributed in the skin care products and is difficult to exert the self effect and the synergistic effect with other active ingredients; in the embodiment 3, ferulic acid is subjected to nanocellulose modification, and can be uniformly dispersed in the skin care product by utilizing the good water dispersibility of nanocellulose, and can be better contacted with other active ingredients of the skin care product to play a good role, the inhibition rate of the ferulic acid to tyrosinase is obviously improved compared with that of the embodiment 2, but the oxidation resistance is reduced, probably because phenolic hydroxyl of the ferulic acid mainly playing an anti-oxidation role can partially react with the nanocellulose to form ether bonds in the modification process, so that the anti-oxidation activity of the ferulic acid is weakened; the ultraviolet absorbent added in the embodiment 4 is the modified ellagic acid, which has strong antioxidation, so that the antioxidation capability of the skin care product is obviously improved, but the inhibition rate of the skin care product on tyrosinase is relatively weak; in example 5, compared to example 1, the effect is significantly reduced without adding the traditional Chinese medicine essence extract, which is probably caused by the fact that the traditional Chinese medicine essence extract contains various active ingredients for inhibiting tyrosinase activity and antioxidation, such as ferulic acid in ligusticum wallichii and flavonoid compounds in liquorice, wherein isoliquiritin, isoliquiritigenin-glucose apigenin and licochalcone A have competitive inhibition on tyrosinase, and the extracts of poria alba, cotton rose leaves and leonurus contain antioxidant substances such as polyphenols besides flavonoid compounds, so that the effect of example 5 is significantly reduced. The skin-care product is characterized in that a traditional Chinese medicine essence extract is added in the skin-care product in the embodiment 1, and an ultraviolet additive compounded by nano-cellulose modified ferulic acid and modified ellagic acid is added, the nano-cellulose modified ferulic acid is uniformly dispersed in the skin-care product, and has a good effect of inhibiting tyrosinase activity through synergistic action with other active ingredients in the skin-care product, and meanwhile, the modified ellagic acid well overcomes the defect that the antioxidant activity of the modified ferulic acid is weakened, and the synergistic effect achieves a better whitening effect.

Test example 2

Testing the moisturizing effect: and (3) testing environmental conditions: the ambient temperature is (22 +/-1) DEG C, and the humidity is (50 +/-5)%; the subject claims: the number of people is 30, the age is 16-45 years, and severe allergic skin diseases do not exist; before the test, the subjects needed to wash the inner forearm of both hands. After cleaning, the area to be tested is marked in the forearm of the hand with a marker. Before the formal test is started, the test chamber is kept for more than 15min in a loose state. The test process can not be carried out, and water can not be drunk and the toilet can not be used.

Firstly, a plurality of 3cm multiplied by 3cm test areas are marked in the arms of both hands, and the intervals between the areas are 1 cm. The test products were randomly distributed in each area. Then, the skin care products prepared in examples 1 to 5 were uniformly coated in sequence in the test area by using latex finger sleeves according to the number of 2.0mg skin care product/cm 2. The moisture content of the skin was measured before application and 1, 2, 3 and 4h after application, respectively. The test of the same subject is performed by the same measuring person.

Skin moisture content is measured using a Corneometer model 825 skin moisture content tester (MMV), which is based on the principle of capacitance, where there is a significant difference in the dielectric constants of water and other substances resulting in a difference in capacitance that produces an instrument signal that is converted to moisture content for display. The moisture content of the skin is different, and the measured capacitance value is different, and the measured value can represent the moisture value of the skin. The change of the moisture content of the stratum corneum in the test period is characterized by calculating the hydration change rate. According to the formula:

percent change in hydration (%) - (hydration-initial hydration at test)/initial hydration × 100%

The results are shown in Table 4.

Table 4 moisturizing efficacy test results

The results in table 4 show that each example has a certain moisturizing effect, and that after the skin care product is used, the instantaneous hydration degree of the skin reaches the maximum and then rapidly decreases, which is the reason that moisture in the skin care product is rapidly evaporated from the skin surface, after 1h, the moisture is basically evaporated, the effect of the moisturizing component begins to appear, after 2h, the hydration degree is increased to a certain degree, so that moisture in the air is absorbed, and then the hydration degree is steadily decreased for 3h and 4 h. Example 1 has the best long-term moisturizing effect, which is probably because the nano-cellulose modified ferulic acid has a large specific surface area, good chemical stability, and cross-linked fibers, and has a large number of hydrophilic functional groups such as hydroxyl and carboxyl on the surface, so that the nano-cellulose modified ferulic acid has good moisturizing ability, the hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin in the modified ellagic acid has good hydrophilicity and certain moisture absorption ability, and the ellagic acid can shrink pores due to its polyphenol structure, so as to prevent water loss, the polyhydroxy structure can absorb moisture in the air, so as to maintain the moisture on the surface of the skin, the traditional Chinese medicine extract contains a plurality of plant polysaccharide components, so that the traditional Chinese medicine extract also has good water-retaining and water-locking functions, and the components can promote the absorption of other moisturizing components in the skin care product, so as to increase the hydration degree of the skin, therefore, the embodiment has good moisturizing effect through the synergistic effect of a plurality of substances. In contrast, examples 2 to 5 each had only one or a few of them, and the moisturizing effect was inferior to that of example 1.

Test example 3

Ultraviolet absorption test: QB/T2410-98 ultraviolet absorbance method for evaluating sunscreen effect in UVB region of sunscreen cosmetic was used to test ultraviolet absorption ability of the fine skin care products prepared in examples 1-5, and the results are shown in Table 5.

Table 5 uv absorption test results

As can be seen from the results in table 5, each example has good uv absorption effect, wherein the uv absorption effect of example 1 is the best, ferulic acid has good uv absorption ability, but the solubility in water is not good, and the water solubility and stability of ferulic acid are improved by modifying ferulic acid with nanocellulose, so that the uv absorption ability of example 3 is significantly improved compared with example 2, and ferulic acid has strong uv absorption ability, but is not stable enough to encounter uv and is easy to decompose, so that it needs to be used in combination with other uv absorbers; the modified ellagic acid has good full-waveband ultraviolet absorption capacity and strong oxidation resistance, can generate obvious synergistic effect to resist the photo-oxidation emergency of skin and is beneficial to resisting photo-aging and skin problems when being used together with the nano-cellulose modified ferulic acid, has high oxidation activity, can delay the decomposition of the nano-cellulose modified ferulic acid, obviously improves the stability of the nano-cellulose modified ferulic acid, and prolongs the ultraviolet absorption aging; flavonoid, polysaccharide and organic acid compounds in the traditional Chinese medicine essence extract also have certain ultraviolet absorption capacity, so the ultraviolet absorption effect of the embodiment 1 is remarkable due to other embodiments.

Test example 4

The sun protection factor test is carried out according to the specific requirements of the sun protection cosmetic sun protection factor (SPF value) determination method in the technical specification for cosmetic safety (2015 edition). The sample coating area was 50cm²At a ratio of 2.00mg/cm²The sample is weighed, evenly coated in a test area by using a latex finger cot, and is waited for 30 minutes. The effective number of the tested persons is 15, the individual SPF value is required to be accurate to one digit after a decimal point, the arithmetic mean of the SPF values of all the tested persons protected by the sample is calculated, and the integral part of the arithmetic mean is the SPF value of the tested sample. The results are shown in Table 6.

TABLE 6

As can be seen from the comparison between the above examples, example 6 has more excellent sunscreen effect. The reason may be that calcium lignosulfonate is combined with nano-cellulose modified ferulic acid and modified ellagic acid, and the acidity of the ultraviolet absorbent is reduced through the interaction of chromophoric compounds in the calcium lignosulfonate, so that the SPF value of the product is improved.

Claims

1. The preparation method of the sunscreen skin care product is characterized by comprising the following steps:

n2 adding glycerol, nicotinamide, jojoba oil, synthetic squalane, water-soluble ceramide, vitamin E and an ultraviolet absorbent into a stirrer, and stirring at 50-70 ℃ for 25-40 min to obtain a mixture B;

n4, placing the emulsion C into an ultrahigh pressure homogenizer, and homogenizing for 3-5 min under the pressure of 150-200 MPa to obtain the sunscreen skin care product;

the ultraviolet absorbent is prepared by the following method: and (2) mixing the following components in a mass ratio of 1-3: 1-3: 0.08-0.16 of nano-cellulose modified ferulic acid, modified ellagic acid and calcium lignosulphonate are dissolved in water at the temperature of 55-65 ℃ under the shading condition; wherein the mass ratio of the total mass of the nano-cellulose modified ferulic acid, the modified ellagic acid and the calcium lignosulphonate to the mass of the water is 1: 45-60 parts of; mixing at the speed of 600-900 rpm for 4-6 h, filtering to obtain filtrate, and freeze-drying to obtain the ultraviolet absorbent.

2. The method of preparing a sunscreen skin care product according to claim 1, wherein: the sunscreen skin care product comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight: 60-75 parts of water, 4-10 parts of glycerol, 1-2 parts of nicotinamide, 0.1-1 part of malic acid, 1-2 parts of honey, 2-6 parts of jojoba oil, 1-4 parts of synthetic squalane, 2-6 parts of water-soluble ceramide, 0.5-2 parts of vitamin E, 0.1-0.5 part of xanthan gum, 0.1-0.5 part of disodium ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid, 0.1-0.5 part of preservative, 2-5 parts of hydrogenated lecithin, 5-10 parts of traditional Chinese medicine essence extract and 1-3 parts of ultraviolet absorbent.

3. A process for the preparation of a sunscreen skin care product as claimed in claim 1 or 2, characterized in that: the preservative is sodium benzoate or potassium sorbate.

4. A process for the preparation of a sunscreen skin care product as claimed in claim 1 or 2, characterized in that: the traditional Chinese medicine essence extract is prepared by extracting ligusticum wallichii, liquorice, chinaroot greenbrier rhizome, cotton rose hibiscus leaves and motherwort according to the mass ratio of (2-6) to (1-3) to (2-6).

5. The method for preparing the sunscreen skin care product according to claim 4, wherein the traditional Chinese medicine essence extract is prepared by the following steps:

s3, fully mixing the filter residue obtained in the last filtration in the step S2 with 70-75% by volume of ethanol water solution according to the dosage ratio of 1g to (8-12) mL to obtain a mixed solution 2, and carrying out ultrasonic extraction on the mixed solution 2 at 10-25 ℃ for 20-30 min, wherein the ultrasonic power is 250-300W, and the ultrasonic frequency is 20-40 kHz; filtering the mixed solution 2 after extraction is finished, repeating the operation for 2-3 times on filter residues, and combining the filtrate obtained by each filtration to obtain an alcohol extract for later use;

6. The method of preparing the sunscreen skin care product of claim 1, wherein the method of preparing the nanocellulose-modified ferulic acid comprises the steps of:

m1, adding 1-4 g of ferulic acid, 0.1-1 g of 1-ethyl- (3-dimethylaminopropyl) carbodiimide and 0.01-0.05 g N-hydroxysuccinimide into 100-200 mL of water, performing ultrasonic dispersion for 15-30 min, reacting at 30-50 ℃ for 2-5 h, and obtaining a carboxylic acid activated ferulic acid aqueous solution after the reaction is finished;

7. The method of preparing a sunscreen skin care product according to claim 1, wherein the modified ellagic acid is prepared by: dissolving 10-20 g of hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin in 25-50 mL of water to obtain a hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin solution, dispersing 5-10 g of ellagic acid in 20-30 mL of absolute ethanol to obtain an ellagic acid ethanol solution, adding the ellagic acid ethanol solution into the hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin solution, carrying out ultrasonic treatment for 20-30 min, stirring at 20-30 ℃ for 12-20 h, and drying the reaction solution at 60-80 ℃ for 12-24 h after the reaction is finished to obtain the modified ellagic acid.