CN111481487B - Whitening skin care composition containing herba Violae extract and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Whitening skin care composition containing herba Violae extract and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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CN111481487B
CN111481487B CN202010322111.XA CN202010322111A CN111481487B CN 111481487 B CN111481487 B CN 111481487B CN 202010322111 A CN202010322111 A CN 202010322111A CN 111481487 B CN111481487 B CN 111481487B
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bulbophyllum
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skin care
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CN111481487A (en
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林天贤
辛海钏
李少芸
徐泽霖
黄树聪
魏少卿
陈永义
刘锦波
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Guangdong Mingchen Daily Chemical Co ltd
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Mingchen Health Co ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9794Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin

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Abstract

The invention discloses a whitening skin care composition containing a herba violae extract and a preparation method thereof. The whitening skin care composition comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 0.1-10.0% of Bulbophyllum extract, 1.0-4.0% of synergist, 1.0-4.0% of emulsifier, 5.0-40.0% of emollient, 0.5-4.0% of preservative, 0.01-0.4% of essence and the balance of deionized water. The herba Bulbophylli Odorati extract contains herba Bulbophylli Odorati polysaccharide, and has antioxidant and whitening effects. The skin care composition containing the extract of the Bulbophyllum can remove free radicals in skin cells, inhibit melanin generation, relieve oxidative stress pressure of the skin cells and reduce skin pigmentation, so that the skin care composition has the technical effects of whitening and protecting skin.

Description

Whitening skin care composition containing herba Violae extract and preparation method thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing a plant extract, belongs to the technical field of personal care products, and particularly relates to a whitening skin care composition containing a cymbidium album extract.
Background
Bulbophyllum (academic name: bulbophyllum Thouars) is a plant of the genus Bulbophyllum of the family Orchidaceae, and is a perennial evergreen creeping herb. The main varieties of the herba Bulbophylli Odorati include herba Bulbophylli Odorati, round She Dandou herba Bulbophylli Odoratissim, etc. The medicinal herba Bulbophylli Odorati can be used as a medicine by sun-drying whole herb or pseudobulb or fresh herb.
The Chinese medicinal composition has the advantages of being sweet and spicy in taste, cool in nature, capable of dispelling wind and removing dampness, cooling blood and activating blood, mainly treating high fever convulsion, rheumatalgia, numbness of limbs, carbuncle swelling, pharyngalgia and traumatic injury, and also has the effects of nourishing stomach and promoting fluid production, dispelling wind and removing dampness, detumescence and relieving pain, clearing heat and resolving phlegm, relaxing tendons and bones, nourishing yin and moistening lung and the like.
Related researches show that flavonoid substances contained in the Bulbophyllum can inhibit the activity of tumor cells. Therefore, studies on physiological activities related to the extract of Bulbophyllum can be paid attention to.
With the improvement of the living standard of people, the skin with whitening and health becomes more and more fashionable, and the skin is accelerated to age by the external environment pollutants, so that the skin gradually loses luster and elasticity and turns yellow and black. Among them, melanin produced by the catalysis of the enzyme complex with ammonia in skin cells is a major cause of skin darkening. Therefore, effective inhibition of the activity of the enzyme complex with amino acid is the most important method for maintaining skin whitening, and it is known to retard the precipitation of skin pigments and the generation of wrinkles by acting on skin cells using an antioxidant.
Along with the increasing understanding of the side effects of chemically synthesized antioxidants, natural plant antioxidants are increasingly favored by consumers due to the advantages of green, natural and no side effects, so that the research and development of plant antioxidant whitening skin care factors have great significance.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a whitening skin care composition containing a plant extract (a Bulbophyllum extract), which has the effects of relieving oxidative stress of skin cells and reducing skin pigmentation.
The invention also aims to provide a preparation method of the whitening skin care composition containing the Bulbophyllum extract.
In order to achieve the above purpose, the invention provides a whitening skin care composition containing a herba violae spicatae extract, which is prepared from the following components in percentage by weight:
0.1-10.0% of Bulbophyllum extract, 1.0-4.0% of synergist, 1.0-4.0% of emulsifier, 5.0-40.0% of emollient, 0.5-4.0% of preservative, 0.01-0.4% of essence and the balance of deionized water;
the Bulbophyllum extract is prepared from Bulbophyllum bulb by drying, pulverizing, leaching with hot water, concentrating, precipitating with ethanol, and drying.
The invention relates to a whitening skin care composition containing a herba lycopodii extract, and the content of the herba lycopodii extract is 1.0-8.0%.
The invention relates to a whitening skin care composition containing a herba lycopodii extract, and the preparation process of the herba lycopodii extract specifically comprises the following steps of:
1) Pretreatment: cleaning bulb of herba Bulbophylli Odorati, slicing, sun drying, and pulverizing;
2) Leaching: extracting crushed bulbs with distilled water under stirring at 90deg.C, and centrifuging to obtain extractive solution;
3) Concentrating: vacuum freeze concentrating to reduce total weight of the extractive solution by 70-90%, to obtain concentrated solution;
4) Alcohol precipitation: adding absolute ethyl alcohol into the concentrated solution to make the final concentration of the ethyl alcohol in the concentrated solution be 75-90%, standing for 10-24h at 0-4 ℃, and filtering to obtain crude extract;
5) And (3) drying: vacuum freeze drying, and pulverizing to obtain herba Bulbophylli Odoratissim extract.
The bulb of the herba lycopi is selected from one or more bulbs of the group consisting of guangdong herba lycopi, round She Dandou, tooth clary, dense flower herba lycopi, aromatic herba lycopi, large bud herba lycopi, long foot herba lycopi and red lip herba lycopi in the step 1) of the whitening skin care composition containing the herba lycopi extract.
The whitening skin care composition containing the extract of the Bulbophyllum can be used for whitening skin, and the synergist is one or more selected from ascorbic acid, tocopherol, polyphenol compounds and derivatives thereof;
the emulsifier is selected from one or more than two of nonionic emulsifier, anionic emulsifier or natural emulsifier;
the thickener is selected from one or more than two of acrylic ester copolymers or natural (or modified) macromolecular polysaccharide polymers;
the emollient is selected from one or two of natural (or modified) oils or polyols.
The preparation method of the whitening skin care composition containing the extract of the Bulbophyllum can comprise the following steps:
1) Aqueous phase: adding the water phase raw materials into deionized water, stirring and heating to 80-90 ℃, and preserving heat and stirring for 25 minutes; the aqueous phase raw material comprises: 10% of an emollient and 30% of a synergist;
2) An oil phase: adding the oil phase raw materials into deionized water, stirring and heating to 80-90 ℃, and preserving heat and stirring for 30 minutes; the oil phase raw material comprises: emulsifying agent and the rest of emollient and synergistic agent;
3) Adding the oil phase into the water phase, stirring for 10-15min under heat preservation, and homogenizing for 5-10 min;
4) Cooling to 40-45deg.C, adding antiseptic, essence, and herba Bulbophylli Odorati extract, stirring for 30min, and homogenizing for 2min;
5) And (5) checking to be qualified, and discharging.
The whitening skin care composition containing the extracts of the Bulbophyllum can have the following advantages and beneficial technical effects:
1) The inventor of the invention researches the effect of the extract of the Bulbophyllum for skin cells, and the result shows that the extract of the Bulbophyllum has the effect of inhibiting the generation of melanin in cells and can effectively slow down the deposition of the melanin in the skin, thereby realizing the invention; the processing treatment of the invention extracts the active ingredients of the Bulbophyllum, and prepares the whitening skin care composition, which has practical significance.
2) The whitening skin care composition contains the extract of the Bulbophyllum amabilis, and can improve the cell oxidation resistance of the skin and the skin pigmentation; therefore, the composition has effects of whitening skin and caring skin.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a graph comparing the effect of Bulbophyllum extract on scavenging hydroxyl radicals.
Detailed Description
The invention is further illustrated below by means of specific preferred examples in connection with effect test examples, which are only intended for the purpose of more detailed description and should not be taken to limit the invention in any way.
1. Preparation method of Bulbophyllum extract
The invention uses the bulb of the Bulbophyllum as a raw material, and the Bulbophyllum extract is obtained through drying, crushing, hot water leaching, concentrating, alcohol precipitation and drying.
Example 1 (preparation Process of Bulbophyllum extract)
A preparation process of a herba Violae extract comprises the following steps:
1) Pretreatment: cleaning 1000g of bulb of Bulbophyllum, slicing, sun drying, pulverizing, and sieving with 20 mesh standard sieve;
2) Leaching: extracting pulverized bulb with 5kg distilled water under stirring at 90deg.C for 3 hr, and centrifuging to obtain extractive solution;
3) Concentrating: vacuum freeze concentrating at-10deg.C to reduce total weight of the extractive solution by 80% to obtain concentrated solution;
4) Alcohol precipitation: adding water ethanol into the concentrated solution to make the final concentration of ethanol in the concentrated solution 75%, standing at 4deg.C for 24 hr, and filtering to obtain crude extract;
5) And (3) drying: vacuum freeze drying at-10deg.C, pulverizing, and sieving with 60-mesh sieve to obtain herba Bulbophylli Odoratissim extract.
Example 2 (preparation Process of Bulbophyllum extract)
A preparation process of a herba Violae extract comprises the following steps:
1) Pretreatment: cleaning 500g of bulb of Bulbophyllum, slicing, sun drying, pulverizing, and sieving with 20 mesh standard sieve;
2) Leaching: extracting crushed bulbs with 3kg distilled water under stirring at 90deg.C for 3.5 hr, and centrifuging to obtain extractive solution;
3) Concentrating: vacuum freeze concentrating at-10deg.C to reduce total weight of the extractive solution by 75% to obtain concentrated solution;
4) Alcohol precipitation: adding absolute ethyl alcohol into the concentrated solution to make the final concentration of the ethyl alcohol in the concentrated solution be 75%, standing for 24 hours at 4 ℃, and filtering to obtain a crude extract;
5) And (3) drying: vacuum freeze drying at-10deg.C, pulverizing, and sieving with 60-mesh sieve to obtain herba Bulbophylli Odoratissim extract.
Example 3 (preparation Process of Bulbophyllum extract)
A preparation process of a herba Violae extract comprises the following steps:
1) Pretreatment: cleaning 2000g of bulb of Bulbophyllum, slicing, sun drying, pulverizing, and sieving with 20 mesh standard sieve;
2) Leaching: extracting pulverized bulb with 8kg distilled water under stirring at 90deg.C for 4 hr, and centrifuging to obtain extractive solution;
3) Concentrating: vacuum freeze concentrating at-10deg.C to reduce total weight of the extractive solution by 85% to obtain concentrated solution;
4) Alcohol precipitation: adding absolute ethyl alcohol into the concentrated solution to make the final concentration of the ethyl alcohol in the concentrated solution 90%, standing at 4 ℃ for 24 hours, and filtering to obtain a crude extract;
5) And (3) drying: vacuum freeze drying at-10deg.C, pulverizing, and sieving with 60-mesh sieve to obtain herba Bulbophylli Odoratissim extract.
2. Test of melanin production inhibiting effect of Bulbophyllum extract
Using the above-described extract of the Bulbophyllum in example 1 as a test sample, the melanin production-inhibiting effect was evaluated (performed in parallel 3 times) as follows.
1) Cell inoculation and addition of test substance
Mouse B16 melanoma cells were seeded at 100,000 cells/well in 6-well plates. The next day, a test substance solution (DMSO as solvent) was added at a certain concentration.
2) Measurement of melanin content
After 3 days from the addition of the test substance solution, the medium was aspirated, washed with a buffer (phosphate buffer 50mM, pH 6.8), and cells were lysed by addition of 1M NaOH to measure absorbance at 475 nm. The ratio (%) of melanin content of the test group to that of the solvent group was calculated using this value as a relative value of melanin content, and it was found that the lower the ratio of melanin content was, the better the melanin production inhibiting effect was.
FIG. 1 is a comparison of the effect of Bulbophyllum extract on scavenging hydroxyl radicals, and it is seen from the results of FIG. 1 that the effect of Bulbophyllum extract on scavenging hydroxyl radicals is about 40-60% of ascorbic acid.
The results of the tests for different concentrations of the extracts of Bulbophyllum are shown in Table 1 below.
TABLE 1 melanogenesis inhibitory effect of Bulbophyllum extract at various concentrations
As shown in Table 1, the extract of Bulbophyllum decastes of the present invention has excellent melanin inhibiting effect and can effectively slow down skin cytochrome deposition.
The Bulbophyllum extract can be added into whitening cosmetic compositions in different dosage forms such as cream, essence, emulsion and the like.
Example 4 (cream containing Bulbophyllum extract)
A whitening cream skin care product containing a herba violae extract comprises the following raw material components in percentage by weight:
the preparation process of the whitening cream skin care product containing the Bulbophyllum extract comprises the following steps:
1) Aqueous phase configuration: dissolving propylene glycol, sodium alginate, glycerol, diglycerol and carbomer in deionized water, stirring and heating to 85 ℃, dissolving completely, and continuing to keep the temperature and stirring for 25min;
2) Oil phase configuration: mixing monoglyceride, ethoxylated methyl glucoside stearate and isohexadecane, stirring, heating to 80-85deg.C, dissolving completely, and stirring for 30min;
3) Adding the oil phase into the water phase at 80-85deg.C, stirring and emulsifying for 10-15min, homogenizing for 10min at 10000-15000rpm with a homogenizer, slowly adding vitamin E phosphate during homogenizing, and homogenizing for 2min;
4) Slowly cooling to below 45deg.C, adding iodopropynyl butyl carbamate, phenoxyethanol, essence, and herba Bulbophylli Odorati extract of example 1 (dissolved with small amount of hot water), and stirring for 30min to obtain whitening cream composition containing herba Bulbophylli Odorati extract.
Example 5 (whitening essence containing Bulbophyllum extract)
A whitening essence skin care product containing a herba Violae extract comprises the following raw materials in percentage by weight:
the preparation process comprises the following steps:
1) Before production, the preparation pot is fully cleaned by 75% ethanol solution, so that the cleaning of the preparation container is ensured;
2) Adding glycerol and diglycerol into a preparation pot, sequentially adding cellulose, hyaluronic acid, low-viscosity silicone oil, ascorbic acid, herba Bulbophylli Odoratissim extract of example 2 and appropriate amount of deionized water, stirring for 30min to dissolve the materials;
3) Adding phenoxyethanol, ethylhexyl glycerol and fatty glyceride (pre-mixed with essence), stirring for 10min, supplementing the rest deionized water, and stirring for 20min to obtain whitening essence composition containing herba Bulbophylli Odorati extract.
Example 6 (whitening emulsion containing Bulbophyllum extract)
A whitening emulsion skin care product containing a herba Violae extract comprises the following raw material components in percentage by weight:
the preparation process comprises the following steps:
1) Aqueous phase configuration: adding propylene glycol, glycerol, hydroxyethyl urea, allantoin and EDTA-2Na into deionized water, stirring and heating to 85 ℃, completely dissolving, and continuing to keep the temperature and stirring for 30min;
2) Oil phase configuration: stirring mixture of hexadecyl/octadecyl alcohol, PEG-100 stearate and monoglyceride, white mineral oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, methyl benzoate and propyl benzoate, heating to 85deg.C, dissolving completely, and stirring for 30min;
3) Adding the oil phase into the water phase at 85 ℃, stirring and emulsifying for 10min, homogenizing for 3-5min at 10000-20000rpm by using a homogenizer, slowly adding polyacrylate, polyacrylamide copolymer and vitamin E acetate during homogenizing, and continuing homogenizing for 2min;
4) Slowly cooling to below 40deg.C, adding essence and herba Bulbophylli Odoratissim extract of example 3 (dissolved with small amount of hot water), and stirring for 30min to obtain whitening emulsion composition containing herba Bulbophylli Odoratissim extract.
The following is the content of the effect application test example section.
Effect application test example 1
1. Efficacy testing
1) The testing method comprises the following steps:
volunteer requirements: age 40-50 years, male and female half each, without any history of skin disease and skin allergy, were not able to use any cosmetics 3 days before testing, and no cosmetics other than the test samples were able to be used during the test.
After the subject washed his/her face with warm water, the skin care composition of example 1 or example 2 or example 3 (selected according to skin properties) was applied to his/her face for 5 weeks each time in the morning and evening. A control cream (control sample without the extract of the Bulbophyllum) was used on the other half of the face.
2) Evaluation criteria:
the trial himself/herself evaluates the skin changes of himself/herself.
3) Evaluation results:
94% of the testers rated a greater improvement in their own facial skin, and in particular, the skin wrinkles improved with the skin care composition. The professional doctor evaluates that 85% of facial wrinkles of the testers are improved, the glossiness of the skin is improved, the skin is smooth, and the whitening effect is obvious.
The above results demonstrate that: the whitening skin care composition containing the extract of the Bulbophyllum can effectively improve the glossiness of skin and improve wrinkles.
Effect application test example 2
2. Safety test
The safety testing method comprises the following steps: the compositions of examples 4-6 were subjected to patch tests (30 persons per example) by visual inspection of skin response after 24 hours, with the extent of response and scoring grade being shown in Table 2.
TABLE 2 Patch test skin response score rating
The results showed that example 4, 30 volunteers all gave negative reactions; example 5, 30 volunteers all gave negative response; example 6, 30 volunteers also all gave negative reactions.
According to cosmetic safety Specification (2015 edition), examples 4 to 6 showed no adverse effects on human body. The composition product provided by the invention has obvious whitening effect, and is mild in property, safe and free of stimulation.
Effect application test example 3
3. The skin whitening and caring composition of the invention and the traditional whitening agent are compared with each other in the same addition amount
1) Purpose of experiment
The required addition of vitamin E and nicotinamide was tested for whitening efficacy similar to that of example 4.
2) Sample preparation
Sample a: the sample prepared in example 4 of the present invention.
Sample B: the extract of Bulbophyllum in example 4 of the present invention was replaced with vitamin E, the others being unchanged.
Sample C: the extract of Bulbophyllum in example 4 of the present invention was replaced with nicotinamide, the others being unchanged.
3) Volunteer selection:
the volunteers were 60, aged 30-50 years, and male and female halves.
4) Instrument and index:
the melanin index of the tested part is measured by adopting a skin melanin and heme tester Mexameter MX18, and the larger the value is, the higher the melanin content is.
5) The method comprises the following steps:
the left and right arms of the volunteer were selected as the test areas, and after washing with clear water, the initial values were measured and then used once a day each in the morning and evening, and any cosmetics other than the test sample could not be used at the test site during the experiment. Volunteers used the test article continuously for 6 weeks and data acquisition was performed periodically during the test.
6) Experimental results
The amounts of vitamin E and nicotinamide added required to achieve the whitening effect of example 4 are shown in Table 3.
TABLE 3 whitening test results of example 4 and vitamin E, nicotinamide
Group of Sample A Sample B Sample C
Additive amount Bulbophyllum extract 3.0% Vitamin E3.6% Nicotinamide 3.4%
The results show that the embodiment of the invention has less additive amount of a single whitening additive, but has better whitening effect, no stimulation after use and higher safety.
The present invention is not limited to the preferred embodiments, but can be modified, equivalent, and modified in any way without departing from the technical scope of the present invention.

Claims (4)

1. The application of the herba violae extract in preparing the whitening and skin care composition is characterized in that the whitening and skin care composition is prepared from the following components in percentage by weight:
1.0 to 8.0 percent of Bulbophyllum extract, 1.0 to 4.0 percent of synergist, 1.0 to 4.0 percent of emulsifier, 5.0 to 40.0 percent of emollient, 0.5 to 4.0 percent of preservative, 0.01 to 0.4 percent of essence and the balance of deionized water;
the Bulbophyllum extract is prepared from Bulbophyllum bulb by drying, pulverizing, leaching with hot water, concentrating, precipitating with ethanol, and drying;
the preparation process of the Bulbophyllum extract specifically comprises the following steps:
1) Pretreatment: cleaning bulb of herba Bulbophylli Odorati, slicing, sun drying, and pulverizing;
2) Leaching: extracting crushed bulbs with distilled water under stirring at 90deg.C, and centrifuging to obtain extractive solution;
3) Concentrating: vacuum freeze concentrating to reduce total weight of the extractive solution by 70-90%, to obtain concentrated solution;
4) Alcohol precipitation: adding absolute ethyl alcohol into the concentrated solution to make the final concentration of the ethyl alcohol in the concentrated solution be 75-90%, standing for 10-24h at 0-4 ℃, and filtering to obtain crude extract;
5) And (3) drying: vacuum freeze drying, and pulverizing to obtain herba Bulbophylli Odoratissim extract.
2. Use of the extract of Bulbophyllum in accordance with claim 1 for the preparation of a whitening and skin care composition, characterized in that:
in the step 1), the bulb of the herba Bulbophylli Odorati is selected from one or more bulbs of herba Bulbophylli Odorati, round She Dandou herba Orobanches, herba Bulbophylli Odorati, flos Bulbophylli Odorati, aromatic herba Bulbophylli Odorati, large bud herba Bulbophylli Odoratissim, and Alchezia Odoratissifolium of Bulbophyllum.
3. Use of the extract of Bulbophyllum in accordance with claim 1 for the preparation of a whitening and skin care composition, characterized in that: the synergist is selected from one or more of ascorbic acid, tocopherol, polyphenol compounds and derivatives thereof;
the emulsifier is selected from one or more than two of nonionic emulsifier, anionic emulsifier or natural emulsifier;
the emollient is selected from one or two of natural oil, modified oil or polyalcohol.
4. Use of the extract of the Bulbophyllum alfa according to any one of claims 1 to 3 for the preparation of a whitening and skin care composition, characterized in that the preparation method of the whitening and skin care composition comprises the following steps:
1) Aqueous phase: adding the water phase raw materials into deionized water, stirring and heating to 80-90 ℃, and preserving heat and stirring for 25 minutes; the aqueous phase raw material comprises: 10% of an emollient and 30% of a synergist;
2) An oil phase: adding the oil phase raw materials into deionized water, stirring and heating to 80-90 ℃, and preserving heat and stirring for 30 minutes; the oil phase raw material comprises: emulsifying agent and the rest of emollient and synergistic agent;
3) Adding the oil phase into the water phase, stirring for 10-15min under heat preservation, and homogenizing for 5-10 min;
4) Cooling to 40-45deg.C, adding antiseptic, essence, and herba Bulbophylli Odorati extract, stirring for 30min, and homogenizing for 2min;
5) And (5) checking to be qualified, and discharging.
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